The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 378 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: BMW 528i Eggenberger Group A (E28) for sale Re: Inner tie rod replacement - Halfway there BMW finally scores some SCCA points <E36> Rattle hunting: door panels, what else? Re: <E36> Rattle hunting: door panels, what else? E46 1999 323iA <E30> Differential Removal Re: <E30> Differential Removal Smoke Independnets, what diagnostic system do you use? <E30> Differential removal 2 Re: <E30> Differential removal 2 Re: <E30> Differential removal 2
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2004 17:10:56 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: BMW 528i Eggenberger Group A (E28) for sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Genuine Eggenberger built BMW 528i (E28) Group A for sale. The car competed in the 1982 European Touring Car and Italian Championships. Kelleners and Grano were European Touring Car Champions in 1982 with an identical car built by Eggenberger. Sister car won the 24 Hours of Spa-Francorchamps in 1982 driven by Joosen. Very few races and only 3 owners from new. The car has got all the correct homologated parts: rose jointed suspension, Bilstein shock absorbers, adjustable front and rear anti- roll bars, Getrag 5-speed race gearbox with dogleg first, 120-litre fuel cell, limited slip differential with oil cooler, BBS 16" split rims, knock-on wheels, AP Racing 4-pot aluminium front and rear callipers with huge ventilated discs. A proper period works racing car with known history, in fantastic original and unmolested condition. The car is in Belgium. Interesting trades considered. Contact: e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: + 32 475 63 67 68 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2004 19:22:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Inner tie rod replacement - Halfway there Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Howdy, On Sat, 25 Sep 2004, rblangille wrote: > The width of the 'nut' is narrow - hence the reference to the special tool. > I assume some of you have managed without the tool, or more accurately, I'm > hoping you have. Please let me know. Go buy a cheap wrench and spend some time with it on a grinder. Mark ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 00:01:18 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: BMW finally scores some SCCA points Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Congratulations to Jim Leithauser and Dave Nielsen for 1st and 3rd (respectively) in SSB at the SCCA National Championships at Mid Ohio this weekend. Both were driving Z4 2.5's. Jim's prepared by BimmerHaus, Dave's by KMS-Koala Motorsport. Keep an eye on SpeedTV. The race is scheduled to be shown on November 28th, as a 1hr special, along with the customary 24 hour marathon of "Runoffs" races on December 25th, when all 24 National Championship races will be shown consecutively. Brett Anderson KMS --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.762 / Virus Database: 510 - Release Date: 09/13/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 12:01:39 +0200 From: Pavel Tcholakov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E36> Rattle hunting: door panels, what else? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi everyone, My rattle tolerance levels have finally been exceeded by my car as a result of its new Bilstein suspension *g*. So, I bought a packet of door panel clips from BMW as I know some of mine are missing, but I could definitely use some pointers as to where to start. A lot of noise is coming from the rear door panels, but also some from inside the front doors. Sometimes it sounds as if there's something that's rattling inside the B-pillars as well. My plan is to take all the door panels off, replace any missing clips, and take it from there. What else can I look for? Thanks a lot for any hints! Cheers, Pavel ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 09:33:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> Rattle hunting: door panels, what else? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I don't know how similar the 4-door is to my 2-door electrically, but mine has several electrical connectors inside the door that are supposed to clip into plastic brackets fixed to the sheetmetal. If the connectors come loose from the brackets they can rattle against the sheetmetal. One of them was also responsible for the clunk as I lowered the window - the clip is supposed to keep the connectors out of the way and the glass would hit the loose connector as it came down. It also might be something as simple as one of the lock/inside door handle linkage rods rattling against the sheetmetal. There is a plastic clip that holds the door handle rod in place that may be missing or broken. Hope this helps, Brian '94 325ic -----Original Message----- From: Pavel Tcholakov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sep 27, 2004 3:01 AM To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [UUC] <E36> Rattle hunting: door panels, what else? Hi everyone, My rattle tolerance levels have finally been exceeded by my car as a result of its new Bilstein suspension *g*. So, I bought a packet of door panel clips from BMW as I know some of mine are missing, but I could definitely use some pointers as to where to start. A lot of noise is coming from the rear door panels, but also some from inside the front doors. Sometimes it sounds as if there's something that's rattling inside the B-pillars as well. My plan is to take all the door panels off, replace any missing clips, and take it from there. What else can I look for? Thanks a lot for any hints! Cheers, Pavel Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 10:15:09 -0500 From: "Beaudette, Roland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Uuc (E-mail)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E46 1999 323iA Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A friend owns an E46 sedan that has seems to loose power as the engine warms up to operating temperature. When cold, the transmission selects 1st gear during standing starts. However after some driving, when the engine temperature is warmer, the trans seems to start from 2nd; there is a noticeable lack of power during standing starts. Is this normal or does in indicate some problem with the car? Cheers, Roland ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 10:29:01 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E30> Differential Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> We removed the limited slip from the donor car this weekend. One trick to removing the bolts at the top of the diff and to the rear was the use of a ratchet with a pivoting head. With this we were able to get the handle down to a point where we could put a cheater pipe on the wrench and break the bolts loose. Also Scott's suggestion of a ratcheting box wrench (19mm) was useful also. One problem we did run into was getting the drive shaft to release from the input flange. Any tricks here? It's hard to get the diff. back because the attachment point for the side bushing wouldn't let us slide the diff forward enough to pull it off of the driveshaft bolts. Maybe you have to tie off the drive shaft after removing the differential to give more room for it to drop past the mounting ear. Also, when cleaning the years of grime off of the differential some of the lubricant came out of the vent stack. I've never seen a dark blue green oil before. Pretty viscous too. Is this a BMW brand of limited slip oil? -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 13:48:03 -0400 From: "Mitchell Morrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Differential Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I place a rag in the crossmember loop to raise the driveshaft ~1". This allow the DS flange to pivot down instead of hitting the crossmember. You can then lower the rear of the diff enough to clear the ear and pull the diff out without it hanging on the DS studs. A rubber padded floor jack and a bungee cord help too. Amsoil is blue green. From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > One problem we did run into was getting the drive shaft to release from the > input flange. Any tricks here? It's hard to get the diff. back because the > attachment point for the side bushing wouldn't let us slide the diff > forward enough to pull it off of the driveshaft bolts. Maybe you have to > tie off the drive shaft after removing the differential to give more room > for it to drop past the mounting ear. > > Also, when cleaning the years of grime off of the differential some of the > lubricant came out of the vent stack. I've never seen a dark blue green oil > before. Pretty viscous too. Is this a BMW brand of limited slip oil? > > -Kevin > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 11:29:15 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: undisclosed-recipients:; Subject: Smoke Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I could use some collective wisdom from the group please. Yesterday at our autox, my car belched out a cloud of oil smoke for a few seconds. This occurred just after a very tight right hand corner, high 'G', low speed. I am told the smoke was from the exhaust pipe. The car runs just fine, oil is full, no sign of power steering fluid leaks. all appears pretty normal. Now for some prior history. A month or so ago, I started to notice a low volume, high frequency whistle from under the hood while backing into my garage. This is noticeable about two out of ten times. My thought is that there is a small vacuum leak. A friend that runs a shop seems to think the oil separator is on its way out to lunch, and his suggestion was to wait for an error code. So the question now is, could these two symptoms be related? I am not familiar with the innards of the oil separator, but is is possible for a malfunctioning unit to collect a puddle of oil inside of it, and dump that puddle down the intake manifold during a high 'G' turn? None of the malfunction indicator lights are on, and there are no stored error codes. Thanks in advance group, Steve Albrecht Cupertino, CA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 14:40:41 -0500 From: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUCDigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Independnets, what diagnostic system do you use? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello, I have an older brother who has been a certified BMW master tech in Atlanta for 5 years, with 9 years total BMW experience all at local dealerships. He is striking out on his own and opening his own shop. He is looking at purchasing a diagnostic machine for reading codes on all manner of BMWs. What do most of the independent folks on the list use instead of a DIS machine? He has looked at BMWs GT1 and Autologic. Does any one have any experience with either of these - Brett, Rob???? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide, just doing my part as a brother, trying to help him get started. If you prefer, reply to him directly [EMAIL PROTECTED] Andrew Harkonen '89 535i 5 spd - with refreshed front suspension STL BMWCCA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 12:50:34 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E30> Differential removal 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I forgot, what's the deal with the locking nuts for the drive shaft flange? More specifically, the dealer parts guy could not supply them because the parts system notation was not to sell the locking nuts but rather the whole flange. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 16:00:04 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E30> Differential removal 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> get a new parts guy. I've ordered lots of those nuts several times w/no problem. they're a specifically oval'ed design such that they are more likely to stay on. one part of my brain says it's known as a prevailing torque design, but the other part disagrees. someone else will know the proper term. Ben not nuts. much. Kevin wrote: > I forgot, what's the deal with the locking nuts for the drive shaft flange? > More specifically, the dealer parts guy could not supply them because the > parts system notation was not to sell the locking nuts but rather the whole > flange. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 17:01:27 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Differential removal 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Your parts guy is thinking of the pinion nut. It, and the flange, are not available from BMW. BMW marks the pinion nut to the pinion during original assembly. If you replace a seal, you must line those marks up to make sure you don't change the bearing pre-load. Their theory is that if you have a new nut, it won't have the mark on it. If you change the pinion flange, it may not be the same height as the original, so either way, the bearing pre-load will end up incorrect. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > > I forgot, what's the deal with the locking nuts for the drive shaft flange? > More specifically, the dealer parts guy could not supply them because the > parts system notation was not to sell the locking nuts but rather the whole > flange. > > -Kevin --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.762 / Virus Database: 510 - Release Date: 09/13/2004 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
