The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 458 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Speedometer innacuracy Re: Speedometer innacuracy Re: Speedometer innacuracy Re: Speedometer innacuracy Carfax Report Please <E30> Power Steering Question Need a recomnedation for an Independent in MA Re: Need a recomnedation for an Independent in MA Best way to store an M3 Re: Best way to store an M3 Re: Best way to store an M3 Re: Best way to store an M3
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2004 22:57:17 -0500 From: "m3 drvr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Speedometer innacuracy Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I remember reading this in either C&D or Motortrend. It was about car manufacturers having badly calibrated speedos. The article picked on BMW and other German manufacturers the most saying they were the worst offenders. I will see if I can find the article. Clyde 98 m3/4 >From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[uucdigest]" ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [UUC] Speedometer innacuracy >Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2004 10:09:40 -0800 > >Speedometer innacuracy: > I knew my E36 speedo was off by a bit, reading lower than actual since >the car was new. The average speed on the OBC also read low, 2mph lower >than the speedo. >The big shocker was after a drive down the 5 to LA, where I got to time the >'secret' OBC codes with a stopwatch over 10 and 20 miles stretches on >cruise control. >114kph as displayed on the OBC internal code is actually 83mph. 128kph >displayed is 90mph actual, 140/141 kph is about 99 mph. >To further confuse the accuracy, the kph reading of the internal code gives >a lower speed than the 'avg speed' reading on the OBC if I reset it while >on cruise control and set the display to metric. > What this means is that the raw internal calibration that feeds >the speedo and OBC is way off too. >Further muddying the issue is that the odometer measures correctly. >Strange. >Barry > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 00:02:47 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Speedometer innacuracy Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Speedometer innacuracy: > I knew my E36 speedo was off by a bit, reading lower than actual > since the car was new. The average speed on the OBC also read low, 2mph > lower than the speedo. This is a surprise, you must be the only person in America with a lower BMW speedo than actual... > The big shocker was after a drive down the 5 to LA, where I got to time > the 'secret' OBC codes with a stopwatch over 10 and 20 miles stretches > on cruise control. > 114kph as displayed on the OBC internal code is actually 83mph. 128kph > displayed is 90mph actual, 140/141 kph is about 99 mph. I am not sure why this is a "big shocker"? Everyone seems to think the OBC has to be accurate (it is a "computer" after all) even though the speedometer can be off. But, it can be calibrated any way BMW sees fit along with changes to tire diameter, etc. > To further confuse the accuracy, the kph reading of the internal code > gives a lower speed than the 'avg speed' reading on the OBC if I reset > it while on cruise control and set the display to metric. > What this means is that the raw internal calibration that > feeds the speedo and OBC is way off too. No surprise to me really but what are you suggesting is "way off"? I doubt it is "that bad". > Further muddying the issue is that the odometer measures correctly. > Strange. Not really, odometers need to be accurate. Later, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2004 22:27:51 -0800 (PST) From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Speedometer innacuracy Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rich makes his point for a reason: by law in Germany, a car's speedometer must never read slower than actual speed. Therefore, to account for variables in production and things like tire wear, most German speedometers are calibrated to give a "cushion" on the high side. The article the other poster referred to discusses this, IIRC. Also, slightly unrelated, back when C/D did "top speed shootouts," a Porsche Turbo won the "wildly optimistic speedometer award," with its speedo reading something like 17 mph higher than actual top speed. I remember phrases like that from my impressionable youth wasted with car magazines. Anyway, you very well may have one that's just way out of spec, or you're running smaller tires. My old E36 had a speedo that was dead-on accurate, as measured and averaged over about 20 continuous miles of Montana highway. The odometer in that car clicks over 2% faster than actual, however. On the other hand, my E28 is more "typical," reading about 3% high. -tammer ... your mileage may vary (Ha! I kill myself) --- Rich Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Speedometer innacuracy: > > I knew my E36 speedo was off by a bit, reading > lower than actual > > since the car was new. The average speed on the OBC > also read low, 2mph > > lower than the speedo. > > This is a surprise, you must be the only person in > America with a lower BMW > speedo than actual... __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Dress up your holiday email, Hollywood style. Learn more. http://celebrity.mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 09:02:53 -0500 From: "David Fleser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Speedometer innacuracy Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If German law states the speedo can't read slower than the actual speed, why does mine read 0 half the time? Finger flicking or light tapping (around 11 oclock on the instrument cowl) will usually get it running again, but it goes directly 0 directly up to about 100mph regardless of the true speed (I'll then show any passengers who are always impressed at how smooth and solid the car is at such speed and a little spooked that I might drive so fast in a 35 mph zone). A little more flicking will usually get it to behave, temporarily. The vehicle is a '94 530i and this is one of the little quirks that gives "Peterman" his personality - EEEEElainnnnnnnne! Why can't BMW make VDO make a unit that works for the car's lifetime? - I am not impressed. I'm 0 for 3 on 2 e28s and 1 e34 when it comes to a working speedometer - and don't EVEN get me started on glove box latches or the power of the rear window motors. Do Pontiacs have these problems? I think the expression is "They swallowed the cat, but choked on the tail". David ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tammer Farid" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 1:27 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] Speedometer innacuracy > Rich makes his point for a reason: by law in Germany, a > car's speedometer must never read slower than actual speed. > Therefore, to account for variables in production and > things like tire wear, most German speedometers are > calibrated to give a "cushion" on the high side. > > The article the other poster referred to discusses this, > IIRC. Also, slightly unrelated, back when C/D did "top > speed shootouts," a Porsche Turbo won the "wildly > optimistic speedometer award," with its speedo reading > something like 17 mph higher than actual top speed. I > remember phrases like that from my impressionable youth > wasted with car magazines. > > Anyway, you very well may have one that's just way out of > spec, or you're running smaller tires. My old E36 had a > speedo that was dead-on accurate, as measured and averaged > over about 20 continuous miles of Montana highway. The > odometer in that car clicks over 2% faster than actual, > however. On the other hand, my E28 is more "typical," > reading about 3% high. > > -tammer ... your mileage may vary (Ha! I kill myself) > > --- Rich Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > Speedometer innacuracy: > > > I knew my E36 speedo was off by a bit, reading > > lower than actual > > > since the car was new. The average speed on the OBC > > also read low, 2mph > > > lower than the speedo. > > > > This is a surprise, you must be the only person in > > America with a lower BMW > > speedo than actual... > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Dress up your holiday email, Hollywood style. Learn more. > http://celebrity.mail.yahoo.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 08:39:32 -0600 From: "Robert Blakeney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Carfax Report Please Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi, Guys. Anyone have an active Carfax account and wouldn't mind checking a car for me? WBADM6349YGU06642 2000 528i White Thanks! Robert ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 09:30:50 -0600 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E30> Power Steering Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, The steering on my 93 325ic with 111k miles is behaving strangely. It seems to stick a bit at whatever position it is in. Specifically, if the steering wheel is straght ahead and you attempt to turn it a quarter turn, it moves easily about 1/16 of a turn then stops until you apply more pressure. As you apply more pressure/turning effort it suddenly pops loose and the effort is normal as long as you keep moving the wheel. If you stop turning the wheel for a few seconds, the problem will repeat itsel regardless of the wheel position. The problem is worse turning right, but exists in either direction. Additional engine rpm's do not change anything. With the engine off, the effort goes way up (duh), but the sticky spot goes away and the turning effort is constant which leads me to believe it is not a strut bearing or other front suspension compnent. I flushed the power steering system by draining it at the pump fitting and refilling a few times and this seemed to help for a day or two (maybe placebo effect?) Does the E30 have a PS filter? Could contamination have ruined something? The old fluid was pretty nasty, basically grey in color, but after the flush a few weeks ago, it has stayed pretty nice. Is there a way to flush the rack itself? Am I looking at a new rack? New pump? Anyone seen this before or will I get to have a learning experience? As always, any help is appreciated. Regards, Paul Craven 93 325ic 5spd - must be Italian, since it's red (probably more Fiat than Ferrari) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 10:30:37 -0600 From: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUCDigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Need a recomnedation for an Independent in MA Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello, I am looking at a car in Rowley, MA and need to arrange a pre-purchase inspection by a trusted independent BMW shop in the area. Can anybody recommend a shop close by that they have worked with in the past? TIA. Andrew Harkonen '89 535i 5 spd. STL ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 13:00:22 -0500 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Need a recomnedation for an Independent in MA Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> www.iaibmwsp.org Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > > I am looking at a car in Rowley, MA and need to arrange a pre-purchase > inspection by a trusted independent BMW shop in the area. Can anybody > recommend a shop close by that they have worked with in the past? TIA. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 13:08:49 -0500 From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Best way to store an M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Here is the dilemma. For the winter I'll be driving my "spare" car a '97 Nissan Maxima SE 5spd (nothing great but it'll get the job done). This means that my '98 M3 will be sitting pretty with snow shoes in a heated garage waiting for warmer weather/temperatures. NOW the question: Should I drive it once in a while to keep everything in working condition (battery, fluids, brakes) OR Should I NOT since that once every 1 or 2 weeks start up will accelerate engine wear due to the lack of initial lubrication since close to no oil will be on the engine walls? But then again no start-up for 2-3 months (that's all I can last w/o her) will make a really dry start-up with even worse engine wear? What to do? P.S. It has snow shoes on because I was planning on driving it all winter long, but the winter Maxima seems a better idea. Thanks in advance Stefano _____________________________________________________________ This e-mail and any attachments may be confidential or legally privileged. If you received this message in error or are not the intended recipient, you should destroy the e-mail message and any attachments or copies, and you are prohibited from retaining, distributing, disclosing or using any information contained herein. Please inform us of the erroneous delivery by return e-mail. Thank you for your cooperation. _____________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 10:26:59 -0800 (PST) From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Best way to store an M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Pick one or the other and prepare for it properly ... Driving it every couple of weeks is fine; a battery tender for the interim isn't entirely necessary but not a bad idea. You have snows, so that's not an issue, but pulling into a warmer garage and letting the car sit in melted snow/salt could be detrimental to the body. You could get really anal and wash it after every drive in salt (a good rinse would do, especially on the undercarriage). If you don't drive it at all, bump up the tire pressure to prevent flat spots, fill the tank and add a bottle of Sta-bil (drive enough after that to run the additive through the lines/injectors), wash the car, disconnect the battery or get a tender, throw a packet of desiccant (sp?) in the interior, treat the rubber seals with gummipflege (a good idea either way), and relax 'til spring. The snows will just mean that you can drive if if you need it in an emergency. Many people recommend changing the oil before and after a long rest. I'd say at least do it beforehand so it sits with clean oil in the sump and passages. If you don't anticipate needing the car for a few months, it's probably easier to devote a couple of hours on a Saturday to prep and go with option B. HTH, tammer --- "Gaudio, Stefano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Here is the dilemma. > > For the winter I'll be driving my "spare" car a '97 > Nissan Maxima SE > 5spd (nothing great but it'll get the job done). This > means that my '98 > M3 will be sitting pretty with snow shoes in a heated > garage waiting for > warmer weather/temperatures. NOW the question: > Should I drive it once in a while to keep everything in > working > condition (battery, fluids, brakes) OR Should I NOT since > that once > every 1 or 2 weeks start up will accelerate engine wear > due to the lack > of initial lubrication since close to no oil will be on > the engine > walls? > > But then again no start-up for 2-3 months (that's all I > can last w/o > her) will make a really dry start-up with even worse > engine wear? > > What to do? > > P.S. > It has snow shoes on because I was planning on driving it > all winter > long, but the winter Maxima seems a better idea. > > Thanks in advance > Stefano __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Jazz up your holiday email with celebrity designs. Learn more. http://celebrity.mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 15:15:54 -0600 (GMT-06:00) From: M Kittock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Best way to store an M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There is probably no "right" answer, but back when I had a 944turbo I didn't touch it for the 4-5 months (in MN) I stored it. A few key items: 1. change the oil just before storage, used oil is corrosive (I would put on 10-20 miles to make sure the new oil was flushed everywhere); 2. put a trickle charger on the battery (I removed mine and just charged it a couple times - but I didn't have to worry about radio codes, etc); 3. Put about 40psi in the tires to compensate for the pressure loss due to cold temps to prevent flat spotting - I never had a flat spot issue in 8 years (some will say to move the car a few inches every week); 4. go sit in the car once a week and make race car sounds for some 'virtual driving' :) . However, if you do decide to start it up every couple of weeks, be sure it comes fully up to temperature, and then some. Meaning, the equivalent of something more than a short driving trip. Mark '96 328i w/ Hakka 1 winter shoes... -----Original Message----- From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Dec 14, 2004 12:08 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Best way to store an M3 Here is the dilemma. For the winter I'll be driving my "spare" car a '97 Nissan Maxima SE 5spd (nothing great but it'll get the job done). This means that my '98 M3 will be sitting pretty with snow shoes in a heated garage waiting for warmer weather/temperatures. NOW the question: Should I drive it once in a while to keep everything in working condition (battery, fluids, brakes) OR Should I NOT since that once every 1 or 2 weeks start up will accelerate engine wear due to the lack of initial lubrication since close to no oil will be on the engine walls? But then again no start-up for 2-3 months (that's all I can last w/o her) will make a really dry start-up with even worse engine wear? What to do? P.S. It has snow shoes on because I was planning on driving it all winter long, but the winter Maxima seems a better idea. Thanks in advance Stefano _____________________________________________________________ This e-mail and any attachments may be confidential or legally privileged. If you received this message in error or are not the intended recipient, you should destroy the e-mail message and any attachments or copies, and you are prohibited from retaining, distributing, disclosing or using any information contained herein. Please inform us of the erroneous delivery by return e-mail. Thank you for your cooperation. _____________________________________________________________ Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 13:29:55 -0800 (PST) From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: M Kittock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Best way to store an M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Two other tips. Don't leave the parking brake engaged if you plan on not driving it and make sure the coolant is good. Personally, I don't see any benefit to starting the car, especially if you're storing it in a heated garage. Most people do more harm by starting it for a few minutes every couple of weeks. The start-up isn't particularly good and you generate a lot of moisture by doing this. -Paul --- M Kittock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > There is probably no "right" answer, but back when I > had a 944turbo I didn't touch it for the 4-5 months > (in MN) I stored it. A few key items: 1. change > the oil just before storage, used oil is corrosive > (I would put on 10-20 miles to make sure the new oil > was flushed everywhere); 2. put a trickle charger > on the battery (I removed mine and just charged it a > couple times - but I didn't have to worry about > radio codes, etc); 3. Put about 40psi in the > tires to compensate for the pressure loss due to > cold temps to prevent flat spotting - I never had a > flat spot issue in 8 years (some will say to move > the car a few inches every week); 4. go sit in the > car once a week and make race car sounds for some > 'virtual driving' :) . > > However, if you do decide to start it up every > couple of weeks, be sure it comes fully up to > temperature, and then some. Meaning, the > equivalent of something more than a short driving > trip. > > Mark > '96 328i w/ Hakka 1 winter shoes... > > -----Original Message----- > From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Dec 14, 2004 12:08 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [UUC] Best way to store an M3 > > Here is the dilemma. > > For the winter I'll be driving my "spare" car a '97 > Nissan Maxima SE > 5spd (nothing great but it'll get the job done). > This means that my '98 > M3 will be sitting pretty with snow shoes in a > heated garage waiting for > warmer weather/temperatures. NOW the question: > Should I drive it once in a while to keep everything > in working > condition (battery, fluids, brakes) OR Should I NOT > since that once > every 1 or 2 weeks start up will accelerate engine > wear due to the lack > of initial lubrication since close to no oil will be > on the engine > walls? > > But then again no start-up for 2-3 months (that's > all I can last w/o > her) will make a really dry start-up with even worse > engine wear? > > What to do? > > P.S. > It has snow shoes on because I was planning on > driving it all winter > long, but the winter Maxima seems a better idea. > > Thanks in advance > Stefano > _____________________________________________________________ > > This e-mail and any attachments may be confidential > or legally privileged. If you received this message > in error or are not the intended recipient, you > should destroy the e-mail message and any > attachments or copies, and you are prohibited from > retaining, distributing, disclosing or using any > information contained herein. Please inform us of > the erroneous delivery by return e-mail. > > Thank you for your cooperation. > > _____________________________________________________________ > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? 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