The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 352 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
Re: E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
Re: E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
Re: E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
Re: E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
Re: 2000 M5 rear view mirror freakout
Re: E30 jack points and rust
Re: E30 jack points and rust
CarFax
Motor Mounts '84 318i E30/M10
Rolex Vintage Festival
Re: Rolex Vintage Festival
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 20:24:14 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Pot metal? Pot metal?
We ain't got no stinkin' pot metal in our fine German cars . . . .
Jenny Morgan wrote:
> Be prepared for the possibility that the Pot metal centers of the
> Subframe mount to break off at their tops.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 19:26:29 -0500
From: "Eric Giles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Yes, and it is not fun getting the remaining part that has broken out of the
hole in the body. This happened to me during my subframe bushing
replacement. There is probably a more elegant way, but I wound up using an
air hammer with a chisel attachment to get mine out. I would not want to
have to go through that again....
Eric Giles
'97 M3/4
'90 M3
> Be prepared for the possibility that the Pot metal centers of the Subframe
> mount to break off at their tops.
>
> This doesn't always happen but it can. And if it does, you ain't driving
> no where til it's replaced!
>
> Jenny Morgan
>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 17:38:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: E30 Yahoo Group <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> So is this site's advice OK for my purpose, or do I really need to
> drive out these tubes?
No tubes Smiller. If tubes come out you have successfully ruined the
subframe bushing those tubes are encapsulated by the rubber. I don't
think this is possible anyway. :-)
I think what Ed is talkin' 'bout is that striking the two bolts from
the top may break rust/crud/doohickie material that is causing the
subframe inner sleave (the aluminum tube) to seize to these bolts. The
bolts are splined and can only be removed if you strike them from below
and back into the cabin.
You may be successful in removing the bottom nuts, striking the bolts
from up top and releasing the subframe with bushings attached from the
bolts when you strike the bolt. How old are your bushings anyway?
This would be a good time to upgrade them. ;-)
One part I haven't heard mentioned is the plate that is sandwiched
between the big nut and the subframe bushing, you'll probably want to
remove this as well (two allen head bolts that are attached on the
sides).
Carlos.
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter now.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/goldrush
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 18:47:06 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Carlos Lopez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Well, as they say, I have good news and I have bad news.
After consulting with a friend who has some better diagrams and
pictures and stuff, we concluded that it would not harm the bushings
for me to lower the subframe a little bit. After shuffling around
jacks and jack stands, I removed the plates held in from the side by
the two Allen head bolts on each side and loosened the subframe bolts.
And the subframe simply lowered itself down as I loosened the nuts.
This gave me enough clearance to get the trailing arms into place. So
thanks for everyone's input (even Jenny's forboding warning) on the
subframe.
Still, wrestling the arms into place and getting everything nicely
lined up took some doing. Finally I was ready for a bolt!
Have I mentioned that I got a set of Bimmerworld adjustable trailing
arm bushings? This is worth discussing, especially for anyone
considering adjustable bushings. Most folks go with the K-Mac
adjustable bushings. The problem is, they require installation in the
correct position, so you have to know in advance how they need to be
aligned to correct your particular toe and camber issues. OTOH, the
Bimmerworld bushings can be installed first and adjusted later. This
sounded good, plus I was having trouble getting the K-Macs when I
needed them.
Here is the anatomy of a Bimmerworld bushing:
Left bushing half
Right bushing half
Inner tubular sleeve with a keyway cut into it
Bolt with a keyway cut into it
Metal key with a T-shape section - the lower stem of the T fits into
the keyway in the sleeve.
Nut and two locking washers
The idea is, you insert a left half and a right half into the trailing
arm loop and line up the off-center holes. Then you insert the metal
sleeve through the two halves. Finally, you insert the metal key.
Once the arm is in place in the brackets on the subframe, you "simply"
insert the bolt with the keyway lined up so that it slides over the T
shaped key.
So I spent a couple of hours with the subframe, lining up the
passenger side trailing arm, and getting it into place. OK, time for
the bolt. Only I must have had the bolt a couple of degrees out of
position, so it pushed the T shaped key out the other side. Oops.
And getting it all back together internally is difficult enough when
it is on the ground or a work bench. So out came the arm so that I
could put it all back together again. (Actually, having done it once
now, I could probably do it still in the subframe brackets.)
A line from one of my favorite songs, "The Blues Ain't Nothing",
performed by the Dickie Betts band, says: "Take one step up, fall two
steps back, won't be long 'till I'm back on track." Right now I'm not
feeling like I'm near that "back on track" part, but I'm sure it is
coming. Who was it who said I should just part out the car? :^)
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Lopez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [UUC] E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
> --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > So is this site's advice OK for my purpose, or do I really need to
> > drive out these tubes?
>
> No tubes Smiller. If tubes come out you have successfully ruined
the
> subframe bushing those tubes are encapsulated by the rubber. I
don't
> think this is possible anyway. :-)
>
> I think what Ed is talkin' 'bout is that striking the two bolts from
> the top may break rust/crud/doohickie material that is causing the
> subframe inner sleave (the aluminum tube) to seize to these bolts.
The
> bolts are splined and can only be removed if you strike them from
below
> and back into the cabin.
>
> You may be successful in removing the bottom nuts, striking the
bolts
> from up top and releasing the subframe with bushings attached from
the
> bolts when you strike the bolt. How old are your bushings anyway?
> This would be a good time to upgrade them. ;-)
>
> One part I haven't heard mentioned is the plate that is sandwiched
> between the big nut and the subframe bushing, you'll probably want
to
> remove this as well (two allen head bolts that are attached on the
> sides).
>
> Carlos.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 18:46:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E30 Rear Sub-Frame Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
No, Ed had it right. Those bolts are knocked out from
the bottom up. Then you have access from the top down
to knock the center locating nub of the subframe
bushing out of the counterbore in the car.
A perfect time to replace the subframe bushings.
Gary Derian
--- Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> --- Scott & Charlotte Miller
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > So is this site's advice OK for my purpose, or do
> I really need to
> > drive out these tubes?
>
> No tubes Smiller. If tubes come out you have
> successfully ruined the
> subframe bushing those tubes are encapsulated by the
> rubber. I don't
> think this is possible anyway. :-)
>
> I think what Ed is talkin' 'bout is that striking
> the two bolts from
> the top may break rust/crud/doohickie material that
> is causing the
> subframe inner sleave (the aluminum tube) to seize
> to these bolts. The
> bolts are splined and can only be removed if you
> strike them from below
> and back into the cabin.
>
> You may be successful in removing the bottom nuts,
> striking the bolts
> from up top and releasing the subframe with bushings
> attached from the
> bolts when you strike the bolt. How old are your
> bushings anyway?
> This would be a good time to upgrade them. ;-)
>
> One part I haven't heard mentioned is the plate that
> is sandwiched
> between the big nut and the subframe bushing, you'll
> probably want to
> remove this as well (two allen head bolts that are
> attached on the
> sides).
>
> Carlos.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2004 18:53:25 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 2000 M5 rear view mirror freakout
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I think penicillin will cure that.
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
>Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 22:56:44 -0500
>From: "Dana LeJune" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: 2000 M5 rear view mirror freakout
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Anyone ever had their clown nose mirror just go blurry, and have
spots
>appear overnight??
>
>Dana LeJune
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 00:32:56 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 jack points and rust
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
As 41 is a body part, it most likely requires welding. And if it is the correct
part, it definitely requires welding.
Also, it required good metal to weld too. Chances are, if the jack pads are
rusted, the sills are too, so you won't have any good material to weld the new
one's too.
Just buy a small floor jack and carry it in the trunk so you don't have to use
the factory jack if you get a flat.
Brett Anderson
KMS
> -----Original Message-----
> Some time ago, I discovered the only major rust on my E30 (so far). The
> rusty bits are what I assume are jack points just forward of the front
> doors. They are folded steel plates about 2-3 inches square and right up
> against the outer edge of the car.
>
> By luck, I was digging around through the ETK and came across what may be
> replacement parts for this.
>
> Drawing 00005137 shows the parts:
>
> 41351913759 "Jack Fixture"
>
> and
>
> 41351913760 and 41351916470 both listed as "Bracked Jack Fixture"
>
> Are these "Jack Fixtures" the parts I need to replace the crumbling bits up
> front in my E30 (not counting the small perferations in the floor boards)?
>
> -- Joe
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 01:26:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (KMS - Brett Anderson)
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (UUC Digest)
Subject: Re: E30 jack points and rust
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>From KMS - Brett Anderson
>
>As 41 is a body part, it most likely requires welding. And if it is the correct
>part, it definitely requires welding.
Welding is doable.
>Also, it required good metal to weld too. Chances are, if the jack pads are
>rusted, the sills are too, so you won't have any good material to weld the new
>one's too.
Sills are fine, floorboard is missing a little metal. What it looks like
happened is that the undercoating trapped some water between the plate and
the floorboard and that is where it rusted. I have a nice "hole" in a line
about 3/4 of the way arround around where this pad was welded to the floor
board. What is left of the pad is still firmly stuck to the bracket position.
I was going to just remove the pad and repair the water tight nature of the
floorboards with POR-15 and some of the glass mat they sell, but thought if
I could put the right parts back, it might be worth it. They were cheap
enough (about $3 each).
>Just buy a small floor jack and carry it in the trunk so you don't have to use
>the factory jack if you get a flat.
>
Already do that. All I use the factory jack for is removing stuborn rims in
the middle of winter. Wedge between stuck flat and wheel housing and crank
away. You start getting creative while changing a flat at -20F.
-- Joe, making things water tight before winter...
--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 12:56:51 -0400
From: "M540" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: CarFax
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
If anyone has a current CarFax account and would be willing to run a VIN for
me, please e-mail me directly. Thank you!
Kevin
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 17:46:41 -0400
From: "Art Ream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Motor Mounts '84 318i E30/M10
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Ok,
The need arose to replace the Motor mounts on the beast. Problem arises
a week after the job is done. The Passenger side motor mount still pulls
towards the center of the car. Stretching the rubber and it appears to me
to NOT be sitting correctly on the Engine Mount Arm. However, all the
grooves and notches match up correctly and it went in exactly as the old was
removed with tabs in the correct places on the cross member. Now, there is
no other place or other position to put this in at all. The motor mount arm
pulls down on this too much in my opinion and will lend to premature Failure
of this mount.
The Drivers Side looks fantastic still... While in there I also replaced
the transmission rubber mounts and they look great.
Does anyone have any suggestions. Could the motor mount arm have been
changed in the past an too short?
Thanks
Art
'84 318i E30 M10
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 18:23:56 -0400
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Rolex Vintage Festival
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Still going on through the Labor Day Weekend at Lime Rock
Park. Definitely recommended.
My BMW-related highlights:
http://www.robertlevinson.com/Rolex_Vintage_Festival_090404/
This one summed it up for me:
http://www.robertlevinson.com/Rolex_Vintage_Festival_090404/CSL_R.jpg
- Rob
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 18:38:33 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Rolex Vintage Festival
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I like that Alpina Roadster (Z1) with the map on the hood!
Maybe it will disappear along the marathon . . . .
Ed
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Still going on through the Labor Day Weekend at Lime Rock
>Park. Definitely recommended.
>
>My BMW-related highlights:
>
>http://www.robertlevinson.com/Rolex_Vintage_Festival_090404/
>
>
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(12 messages)
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