The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 677 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Has anyone had experience with Jorgen rebuilt racks? Re: I know this has been said, but I need suspension info alignment, steering, car wash Re: alignment, steering, car wash Re: alignment, steering, car wash Re: alignment, steering, car wash Re: alignment, steering, car wash Re: Peak Oil Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Re: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Re: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Re: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Re: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Re: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 01:05:55 -0500 From: Russ Maki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Has anyone had experience with Jorgen rebuilt racks? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Greetings, folks. Longtime lurker, first-time poster. I need to replace the steering rack on my E30 (1987) cabrio. I've checked my favorite parts vendors, and none of them can come within $100 of Jorgen Auto's price for one of their rebuilds. Trouble is, I know you usually get what you pay for. Has anybody got any red flags to wave with regard to this rebuilder? Thanks Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 08:31:24 -0400 From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: I know this has been said, but I need suspension info Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> David, I'll comment where I have direct experience that might help: "I am needing struts and shocks...leaning towards Koni, but willing to listen...." I have used OE sport, Bilstein sport and Koni SA dampers all with the same springs (H&R Sport) on a '95 318ti and here is my impression: OE: the best ride quality (smooth with little harshness) but was the least controlled Koni: next best ride quality and the adjustability was a must have (I've since purchased Koni SA dampers for my M3 for what that's worth) for a car that sees double-duty. Very well controlled ride with no harshness. Bilstein: Ride quality was well controlled but a little stiffer which I attribute to the higher pressure gas charge. "I am a bit interested in going a bit lower, but not a lot stiffer...." H&R sport spring rates for the 318ti are nearly identical to stock sport spring rates. The only real difference is ride height. In my opinion this was a very aesthetically pleasing ride height on that car. The lowered ride height did allow sooner contact with the bump stops which over large bumps made the suspension feel stiffer than stock. I attribute that to the damper and the bump stop, measurement data says the springs are of the 'same' stiffness. "I'll need rear shock mounts and maybe fresh bushings there too...." If you get Koni SA externally adjustable dampers, you'll need 12mm rear shock mounts. These dampers and RSM are available through TC Kline (direct or through Brett Anderson-KMS) and/or Ground Control. Lots of folks carry the 'normal' Koni SA dampers that you have to remove and compress to adjust (a pain in my opinion and worth the extra bucks to get external!) " I'll need control arm bushings, have heard good and bad about urethane and rubber...." In your case (318ti) the standard and highly recommended upgrade is to buy solid stock centered (or offset if you desire more caster) e36 M3 rubber bushings. The OE 318ti rubber bushings have large voids in them making them softer. The (still rubber) OE M3 bushings are much stiffer yet have OE reliability which the Urethane units don't. Lemforder is the OEM and application for centered is a '96-'99 M3. Solid offset bushings are for/from a '95 M3. Either set should run between $50-$75 depending on your source of choice. I was really happy with the suspension on my '95 318ti set up this way: 1) Koni SA 2) H&R Sport springs 3) K-Mac front camber plates (camber and caster adjustability) 4) Rear K-Mac trailing arm bushings (toe and camber adjustability) I used the car as a daily driver as well as an on-track DE car. I put a roll bar/harness bar in the car and after 2 years like that ultimately 'upgraded' to a car that could be a dedicated toy and not a daily driver double duty mutt. :) Cheers, Chet Dawes From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: I know this has been said, but I need suspension info I am needing struts and shocks...leaning towards Koni, but willing to listen.... I am a bit interested in going a bit lower, but not a lot stifffer.... I likely need to replace contol arms, like the all metal Meyle units, but have heard Meyle is junk.... I'll need contol arm bushings, have heard good and bad about urethane and rubber.... I'll need rear shock mounts and maybe fresh busings there too.... I have heard so much here as to what is a good setup, and I know it is subjective and what one person likes another will loath. I am interested in brands and OEM options, example: Contol arm bushings, so and so brand was great , but so and so was lousy. Or, stick with OEM rubber, but get this part number because... I know I am a pain, but I want to do it right, but don't have the money to redo it right away because I hate it or it wears out. Thanks, David in Richmond, VA **************************************************************************************** Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 11:04:16 -0400 From: Chad M Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: alignment, steering, car wash Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Is the steering wheel position at all related to the alignment? In other words I just had a 4 wheel alignment done at the local BMW dealer. If I have the steering wheel at zero degrees, straight up/down to my eyes, the car goes to the right. To have the car go straight, the steering wheel is a couple of degrees off of vertical, at least visually to my eyes. I had the control arms replaced earlier this spring, then I installed a Racing Dynamics Front Stressbar. I sensed that the alignment was off. When I took the car in to the BMW dealer I remember the steering wheel having to be a little off to the right, for the car to drive straight. Now the opposite, it has to be to the left. Am I being unusually picky about this or should I take it back to the BMW dealer and have them fix it? Is it standard procedure for dealers to wash all cars after they have their service completed? I'm asking because when I picked up the car, the gentleman at the counter asked someone else if the car had been washed. I did not hear the reply. It was obvious that the car had not been washed, the windshield was filthy, still is. :) Though I guess maybe the crack in the windshield might have scared them off. I'm waiting to hear when the new one windshield has come in so I can get it replaced. Though the windshield does not leak, last I checked the crack was not through the glass. -Chad ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 11:22:41 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chad M Stewart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: alignment, steering, car wash Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Return to the dealer and have them straighten the wheel. Windshields are laminated from two layers of glass. Generally, only the outer layer cracks. Gary Derian > > > Is the steering wheel position at all related to the alignment? In other > words I just had a 4 wheel alignment done at the local BMW dealer. If I > have the steering wheel at zero degrees, straight up/down to my eyes, the > car goes to the right. To have the car go straight, the steering wheel is > a couple of degrees off of vertical, at least visually to my eyes. > > I had the control arms replaced earlier this spring, then I installed a > Racing Dynamics Front Stressbar. I sensed that the alignment was off. > When I took the car in to the BMW dealer I remember the steering wheel > having to be a little off to the right, for the car to drive straight. > Now the opposite, it has to be to the left. > > Am I being unusually picky about this or should I take it back to the BMW > dealer and have them fix it? > > Is it standard procedure for dealers to wash all cars after they have > their service completed? I'm asking because when I picked up the car, the > gentleman at the counter asked someone else if the car had been washed. I > did not hear the reply. It was obvious that the car had not been washed, > the windshield was filthy, still is. :) Though I guess maybe the crack > in the windshield might have scared them off. I'm waiting to hear when > the new one windshield has come in so I can get it replaced. Though the > windshield does not leak, last I checked the crack was not through the > glass. > > -Chad ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 11:01:53 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Chad M Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: alignment, steering, car wash Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I would take the car back to the dealer and have them repeat the alignment. It should steer straight with the steering wheel centered, if it isn't they didn't do a very good job of aligning the car. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 12:36:29 -0400 From: "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: alignment, steering, car wash Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> One thing to remember, most roads have a definate crown to them for water drainage. Often the factory alignment will take that into consideration. Thus when driving on the right side of a two lane road the steering may be dead on center, and when driving on the left side of a multi-lane interstate you may have to have some steering input to the right to actually go straight. Sometimes you have to choose, based on where you drive most, if the degree or two off bothers you. Just another perspective. -Tom >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6/1/2005 12:01 PM >>> I would take the car back to the dealer and have them repeat the alignment. It should steer straight with the steering wheel centered, if it isn't they didn't do a very good job of aligning the car. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:04:23 -0400 From: Chad M Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Tom Melton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: alignment, steering, car wash Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Varied driving, no driving school at http://theglen.com/ just yet. :-) I thought about crowns in the road and that was part of what led me to drive the car all the way home yesterday. I noticed the steering wheel within feet of pulling out of the dealer. I started to turn around to take it back, but then decided to drive it on various roads first. I'll run some errands with it this afternoon and see if it is behaving the same way I thought it was yesterday. I drove on a 4 lane street, 2 lane road, and 6 lane express way. It went right with the steering wheel straight on every road, though with varying degrees. Unless I find that I was just overly sensitive yesterday, I'm taking it back. Thank you to all who replied. -Chad On Jun 1, 2005, at 12:36 PM, Tom Melton wrote: > One thing to remember, most roads have a definate crown to them for > water drainage. Often the factory alignment will take that into > consideration. Thus when driving on the right side of a two lane road > the steering may be dead on center, and when driving on the left side > of a multi-lane interstate you may have to have some steering input to > the right to actually go straight. > > Sometimes you have to choose, based on where you drive most, if the > degree or two off bothers you. > > Just another perspective. > > -Tom ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 11:01:22 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Peak Oil Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jay, The peak oil prediction is just that a gross prediction of a future event based on many unknowns and assumptions of assumptions. In other words short the market if you're so sure. The previous prediction of the peak was in the '70's and when that didn't occur it was moved out. (Sounds a bit like an Ehrlich huh?). I would suggest that you get Dr. Gold's book, "The Deep Hot Biosphere" and look at the other side of the equation. In the meanwhile, tempt your tastebuds with this: http://www.worldnetdaily.com/news/article.asp?ARTICLE_ID=38645 -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 16:06:31 -0400 From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[email protected]'" <[email protected]> Subject: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a question about bleed brakes and using the Motive Brake bleeder. I have a seized passenger front caliper which I will be replacing this weekend. Is there a specific sequence to bleed the brakes, i.e. drivers front then pass rear.. etc.? I have read the instructions on the brake bleeder, but I would like to clarify what I need to do to bleed the brakes. From what I've read, you fill the Motive with new brake fluid, screw it into the brake reservoir, pressurize to about 20psi, and then just open each brake nipple until you see new fluid come out, correct? Thanks for the help! Jesse Chamberlain 1993 325i ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 15:15:46 -0500 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "'[email protected]'" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You should start w/the wheel furthest from the resevoir and proceed, in succession, to the one nearest the resevoir. On my cars, that's doing RR, LF, RF, LF. I believe I read this in a Bentley manual for E28s and E34s. I was also instructed by an indy BMW mechanic to pump the pedal a few times while the nipple was open and pressure on. Clarence West Bend, WI Chamberlain, Jesse wrote: > I have a question about bleed brakes and using the Motive Brake bleeder. I > have > a seized passenger front caliper which I will be replacing this weekend. Is > there a specific sequence to bleed the brakes, i.e. drivers front then pass > rear.. etc.? I have read the instructions on the brake bleeder, but I would > like to clarify what I need to do to bleed the brakes. From what I've read, > you > fill the Motive with new brake fluid, screw it into the brake reservoir, > pressurize to about 20psi, and then just open each brake nipple until you see > new fluid come out, correct? > > Thanks for the help! > > Jesse Chamberlain > 1993 325i > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 13:22:52 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> yes that is the way you do it. Start with passenger rear, then driver's rear, passenger front, driver front. (longest line to shortest line). Use a clear tube from the bleed valve so you can check for air bubbles. You'll need a 7mm wrench IIRC. make sure you check the motive periodically to ensure there is fluid in it. If you start pumping air through the system you'll have a great time trying to get the ABS bomb to work correctly. and don't tighten up the bleed valves too tight, they snap easily. If they haven't been bled in a while and the car sees salt on the road squirt some liquid wrench on the bleed valves prior to bleeding, if they're frozen due to corrosion you can easily snap the buggers off. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chamberlain, Jesse Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 1:07 PM To: '[email protected]' Subject: [UUC] Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i I have a question about bleed brakes and using the Motive Brake bleeder. I have a seized passenger front caliper which I will be replacing this weekend. Is there a specific sequence to bleed the brakes, i.e. drivers front then pass rear.. etc.? I have read the instructions on the brake bleeder, but I would like to clarify what I need to do to bleed the brakes. From what I've read, you fill the Motive with new brake fluid, screw it into the brake reservoir, pressurize to about 20psi, and then just open each brake nipple until you see new fluid come out, correct? Thanks for the help! Jesse Chamberlain 1993 325i Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 17:08:35 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I always remove and coat the bleeders with anti-seize. Considering the front and rear systems are separate, I don't think the order matters very much. If the E36 has a 3 channel ABS like the E30, then it is better but not critical to bleed the RR before the LR. With a 4 channel ABS, I don't think the order matters at all. Gary Derian > yes that is the way you do it. Start with passenger rear, then driver's > rear, passenger front, driver front. (longest line to shortest line). > Use > a clear tube from the bleed valve so you can check for air bubbles. > You'll > need a 7mm wrench IIRC. > > make sure you check the motive periodically to ensure there is fluid in > it. > If you start pumping air through the system you'll have a great time > trying > to get the ABS bomb to work correctly. > > and don't tighten up the bleed valves too tight, they snap easily. If > they > haven't been bled in a while and the car sees salt on the road squirt some > liquid wrench on the bleed valves prior to bleeding, if they're frozen due > to corrosion you can easily snap the buggers off. > > Marco ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 13:35:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> RR, LR, RF, LF. Farthest to nearest wrt master cylinder. -tammer --- "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I have a question about bleed brakes and using the Motive > Brake bleeder. I have > a seized passenger front caliper which I will be > replacing this weekend. Is > there a specific sequence to bleed the brakes, i.e. > drivers front then pass > rear.. etc.? I have read the instructions on the brake > bleeder, but I would > like to clarify what I need to do to bleed the brakes. > From what I've read, you > fill the Motive with new brake fluid, screw it into the > brake reservoir, > pressurize to about 20psi, and then just open each brake > nipple until you see > new fluid come out, correct? > > Thanks for the help! > > Jesse Chamberlain > 1993 325i > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder > of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of > the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Discover Yahoo! Use Yahoo! to plan a weekend, have fun online and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 15:22:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'[email protected]'" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Correct way to bleed brakes on a 93 325i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >From what >I've read, you >fill the Motive with new brake fluid, screw it into the brake >reservoir, pressurize to about 20psi, and then just open each brake >nipple until you see new fluid come out, correct? I use the Motive bleeder as just a pressure source. Since I take it with me to track events it keeps things cleaner that way, I only have to wash the small bottle that I bleed the old fluid into. Turkey baste the old fluid out of the reservoir, fill with fresh fluid, bleed, RR, LR, RF, LF, and that's about all she wrote. I end up refilling the reservoir 3 or 4 times but I don't mind. I only use about 15psi of pressure and that seems to work OK. I just came back from a school at Mid-Ohio that I ran in a '93 325is and the brakes were fantastic. I had to rebuild the LF caliper prior to the event since the boot was torn and there was a little bit of corrosion on the outside edge of the piston. No problems once I cleaned everything up. Carlos 88 325is not yet track worthy __________________________________ Discover Yahoo! Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/online.html ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages) **********
