The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 672 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: <E36> Clutch interlock Re: <E36> Clutch interlock Re: <E36> Clutch interlock Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Re: Clutch interlock Re: Clutch interlock Re: M30 engine upgrades <E30> Tie Rods Re: <E30> Tie Rods
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 14:04:40 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Clutch interlock Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > my old 93 325 and my current 95 M3 were and are able > > to start with tranny in neutral and the clutch out. My 95 will attempt to start while in gear with the clutch out, and yes, I'd have to be an idiot to know this. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 12:16:13 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Clutch interlock Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Thu, May 26, 2005 12:04 pm, Jamie Howton said: >> > my old 93 325 and my current 95 M3 were and are able >> > to start with tranny in neutral and the clutch out. > > My 95 will attempt to start while in gear with the clutch out, and > yes, I'd have to be an idiot to know this. Heh. Apparently a 93 325is will start while in gear and slowly drive itself forward and tap another car in the paddock while the owner scrambles to turn the damn thing off, or at least get it out of gear. Or so I've heard :-) Jim Bassett ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 16:28:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Clutch interlock Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Howdy, On Thu, 26 May 2005, Jim Bassett wrote: > Heh. Apparently a 93 325is will start while in gear and slowly drive > itself forward and tap another car in the paddock while the owner > scrambles to turn the damn thing off, or at least get it out of gear. My '93 325is does this too. I'd always thought that the PO or age had managed to break something. > Or so I've heard :-) Uh huh. :-) Mark ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 12:50:49 -0700 From: John Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I'll second that. The kit includes the right glass prep goop for proper > adhesion. I glued mine back on more than a year ago and it's been fine. Interesting...I'd been looking for an answer to 'Is there anything out there other than US-built vehicles that have the mirror glued to the windshield?' Even with Japanese-branded vehicles it seems to be only the US-manufactured ones that have glue-on mirrors. The glass-goo is susceptible to sunlight, they'll pretty much all fall off sooner or later, and the aftermarket-fix-kit glue seems less resistant than the OEM stuff. In the vehicles we have that have glued-on mirrors ('89 Mustang LX, '91 Suburban, '91 SHO) they've all fallen off at one point or another (the first time the SHO's fell off it went tumbling into the passenger's footwell in turn 6 at Thunderhill) and I've taken to putting a piece of aluminum foil duct-wrap tape on the outside of the glass over the mirror base to keep direct sunlight off of it; it seems to help quite a bit. John. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 13:03:16 -0700 From: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Unlike their steel top counterparts, E30 convertibles have a little notched disk that is glued to the windshield. The mirror is then secured to that (twist on). In the 6 years of owning my cabrio the mirror has never come off, but that's because I seem to crack the windshield every couple of years (driving on I-5 in Sacramento, we have a lot of rock and gravel trucks). I would suggest either using the adhesives available at Pep Boys, Kragen, etc. Or, pay a glass shop to do it. I can't imagine it would be more than $10. Mark Gold 1991 Lagunengr�n 318ic On May 26, 2005, at 12:50 PM, John Miller wrote: >> I'll second that. The kit includes the right glass prep goop for >> proper adhesion. I glued mine back on more than a year ago and >> it's been fine. >> > > Interesting...I'd been looking for an answer to 'Is there anything > out there other than US-built vehicles that have the mirror glued > to the windshield?' Even with Japanese-branded vehicles it seems > to be only the US-manufactured ones that have glue-on mirrors. > > The glass-goo is susceptible to sunlight, they'll pretty much all > fall off sooner or later, and the aftermarket-fix-kit glue seems > less resistant than the OEM stuff. In the vehicles we have that > have glued-on mirrors ('89 Mustang LX, '91 Suburban, '91 SHO) > they've all fallen off at one point or another (the first time the > SHO's fell off it went tumbling into the passenger's footwell in > turn 6 at Thunderhill) and I've taken to putting a piece of > aluminum foil duct-wrap tape on the outside of the glass over the > mirror base to keep direct sunlight off of it; it seems to help > quite a bit. > > John. > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > [email protected] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 15:25:58 -0500 (CDT) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Tom Childers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In the halcyon days of Wink, they sold a windshield kit that included plastic buttons rittled with holes and basic silicone cement. These worked better (lasted longer) than the usual metal-button-and-epoxy kit you find at parts stores. As I've moved my Wink between cars over the years, I've used those same metal buttons from parts stores, but done it the Wink way by drilling lots of holes in the buttons and using aquarium silicone. This lasts a very, very long time. A variation replaces the aquarium silicone with the black goo auto glass joints use to seat your windshield (although I'm not sure I've gotten better results with this, the basic silicone works great). - k --- original message --- From: Tom Childers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? I'm helping a friend fix up her 1991 325iC, and the rear view mirror is detached from the windshield. I need to cement the button base back on to the glass. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 19:29:46 -0700 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[email protected]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Tom Childers wrote: > I'm helping a friend fix up her 1991 325iC, and the rear view > mirror is detached from the windshield. I need to cement the > button base back on to the glass. > What is the official way to do this? > Cyanoacrylate/Super Glue? Epoxy? If your friend is about to sell the car just go to an auto parts store and get one of the rear view mirror glue kits. If your friend wants to keep the car think about going to a class place and paying a professional to use the special adhesive they have to glue it back on. Everyone I know that has tried the auto parts store glue kits (over the past 25 years) had the mirror fall back down in under a year... Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 09:29:49 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> TC/KK - In 1997 and used a kit from Murray's to fix a rearview mirror to a VW windshield. I parked it outside most of the time. I sold the car in 2003 with the mirror still in place. YMMV. As with many coating and adhesive applications, proper preparation of surfaces and sufficient dry/cure times can be keys to success. - N. Jay ********************* > Tom Childers wrote: > > > I'm helping a friend fix up her 1991 325iC, and the rear view > > mirror is detached from the windshield. I need to cement the > > button base back on to the glass. > > What is the official way to do this? > > Cyanoacrylate/Super Glue? Epoxy? > Kevin Kelly replied: > If your friend is about to sell the car just go to an auto parts store and > get one of the rear view mirror glue kits. If your friend wants to keep the > car think about going to a class place and paying a professional to use the > special adhesive they have to glue it back on. Everyone I know that has > tried the auto parts store glue kits (over the past 25 years) had the mirror > fall back down in under a year... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 09:17:39 +0100 From: nick brearley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Best way to glue on a rear view mirror? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Tom Childers wrote: > >> I'm helping a friend fix up her 1991 325iC, and the rear view >>mirror is detached from the windshield. I need to cement the >>button base back on to the glass. >>What is the official way to do this? >>Cyanoacrylate/Super Glue? Epoxy? Thistothat.com recommends Loctite Impruv and a few others. See http://uucurl.com/x.php?p=1019 That uucurl was already in the database so somebody may have already posted this info. Lost a chunk of emails earlier in the week due to ISP problems. Sorry if this is a duplication. Useful site nevertheless. Nick Brearley ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 16:13:27 -0400 From: "Peter Guagenti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Clutch interlock Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Funny mine must have failed to. I can start the car without the > pedal being depressed also. It has been that way since I have had > the car > so I just assumed that was how BMW designed it. That's not a bug, it's a feature. ;-) I hate that 'nanny' nonsense of having to have your foot on the pedal -- I know when my car is in gear and when it's not. I'm pretty sure they phased the interlock in with OBDII. As a data point, my early-build '96 328i sport had it, and my '95 M3 does not. -p ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 08:28:41 -0400 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Clutch interlock Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > -----Original Message----- > I'm pretty sure they phased the interlock in with OBDII. As a > data point, my early-build '96 328i sport had it, and my '95 M3 does not. It was with OBDII, and it's a US law (or lawyer) thing. Euro cars, post 1996, don't have it. Brett Anderson KMS ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 16:08:42 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: M30 engine upgrades Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Roy, One of the best bang the the bucks improvement is to Extrudehone the intake manifold. I haven't heard of any issues on the con rods. My E23 had 225k miles on it with no peep out of the rod bearings. Of course the car only got synthetic oil from the point at 40k miles when I got it. A good top end valve job can also help the motor breath. I also had a Dinan chip in the car and that really woke up the squirrels. Of course you're now a slave to premium fuel. The real weaknesses on this motor are the lubrication of the valve train and sensitivity to an accurate valve adjustment. The electromechanical idle control valve sucks too. Are you going to R&R all of the main seals and gaskets? What about the timing chain since you have the motor out anyway? I also replaced all of my vacuum lines with silicon (black) hoses. You'll also should also replace the lines to/from? the vapor recovery system and the coolant line that runs under the intake. That 150#'s on the front axel and at a higher C of G is going to throw off the handling. Treehouse Racing has an interesting conversion for the E30's. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 20:47:52 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E30> Tie Rods Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm in the process of ordering a rebuilt M3 steering rack for my 325i. It does not come with either inner or outer tie rods, but it does come with new boots and clamps. What is the common wisdom about tie rods? Do the inners wear out? Should I even consider re-using my old ones? Are 325i and M3 tie rods the same? I don't know if any of my tie rods have ever been replaced. Should I just bite the proverbial bullet and replace all of the inners and outers? What experiences have you had? The subject car is a 1990 325i with 130K miles. I have not had any issues with the tie rods or boots in the 9 years I've owned the car. TIA for any advice and/or witty anecdotes. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 00:06:55 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Tie Rods Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I'm in the process of ordering a rebuilt M3 steering rack for my 325i. > It does not come with either inner or outer tie rods, but it does come > with new boots and clamps. > > What is the common wisdom about tie rods? Do the inners wear out? Yes, but usually not as fast as the outer ball joints. > Should I even consider re-using my old ones? Are they original? If so, replace. Were they recently replaced? If so, hold off. If they show any evidence that they are worn out, replace. > Are 325i and M3 tie rods > the same? Yes, they are the same. > I don't know if any of my tie rods have ever been replaced. Can you grab the wheel with it raised in the air and shake it back and forth (sideways, not top to bottom) and detect movement? Someone else can watch the ball joint on the outer tie rod to visually see movement. You could also squeeze the ball joint with a large set of pliers. > Should I just bite the proverbial bullet and replace all of the inners > and outers? What experiences have you had? Well, I replaced mine on my 1990 325is at 100k miles (the old weren't completely worn out), my 318is at 175k miles (the old were worn out) and my old 1989 325is at 135k miles (the old were worn out). If I was you, I would replace the whole assembly, no better time to address them. Although not cheap, the OE BMW parts are good. I replaced two of my cars with Meyle tie rod assemblies. Let me just tell you, they were complete junk and two of them wore out in 9k miles (the outer ball joint wore out). My advice, DON'T BUY MEYLE. Also, don't forget to get new locking plates (32 11 1 124 540 - qty of 2). > The subject car is a 1990 325i with 130K miles. I have not had any > issues with the tie rods or boots in the 9 years I've owned the car. Well, if you don't know if they have ever been changed prior to your ownership and you have had the car for the last nine years, I would go ahead and replace them. Or you could just take it to Bill Arnold and have him do it so you won't be out of commission for a few months... :-0 > TIA for any advice and/or witty anecdotes. Someone else will have to provide that, I am all out. Later, Rich ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages) **********
