The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 730 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Thermostat failure Re: Thermostat failure Re: Thermostat failure Re: Thermostat failure Re: E36 325i question - OBD1 O2 sensor & MPG needle Re: New clutch problem About Those Airport Driving Events... <E30> Engine removal Re: <E30> Engine removal Re: <E30> Engine removal Re: <E30> Engine removal Re: Nelson Ledges clutch slave cylinder problem? Re: clutch slave cylinder problem?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2005 19:40:08 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Thermostat failure Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I was at the track this weekend with NASA Midwest region at the Autobahn Country Club. At the end of my second session on Saturday, I overheated. I opened the hood to find a steamy mess, the overflow return hose (skinny hose at the top of the radiator) had blown off and had mutually self destructed along with the viscous fan blades. I removed the fan and replaced the hose with some Autozone bulk hose, filled her up and started the car. It overheated again within 5 minutes of idling. I called it a day at that point. This morning I returned with a thermostat body that I had previously gutted with a hacksaw (I overheated at Road America a couple of years ago and thought it was the thermostat then, it turned out to be the head gasket that time -- gutting the thermostat had no effect), installed it, filled up again and ran the rest of the day with no additional issues. The oil temps got to 235 degrees F today and the coolant moved between 1/2 (normal) and 5/8. This is on a thermostat that has operated for 10K miles and seen ~20 track days. I replaced every part of the cooling system when I was chasing what turned out to be the head gasket, so I am reasonably sure that everything else is OK. I have heard of E36 thermostats that fail initially, but is it common for them to fail so decisively at such a short service interval (albeit somewhat severe duty)? Should I replace it more frequently as sort of a track type preventative maintenance? Is there a better quality thermostat available? Do E36 race cars use the stock thermostat? Thanks for whatever information you might have. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2005 18:06:54 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Thermostat failure Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Sun, Jul 10, 2005 at 07:40:08PM -0500, Jamie Howton wrote: > I have heard of E36 thermostats that fail initially, but is it common > for them to fail so decisively at such a short service interval > (albeit somewhat severe duty)? Some guy told me awhile back that replacement parts often have a much higher early failure rate due to lousy quality control. He was speaking of the Japanese makes specifically though. Maybe he was talkin' out his ass, or maybe he knew some stuff. Anyway, he made me feel better about my painstakingly carefully rebuilt Nissan auto tranny grinding itself to death 1000 miles after I replaced a planetary gearset... -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 07:57:21 -0500 From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Thermostat failure Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ANYtime you overheat... automatically replace the thermostat. You ant to do this because under an overheat condition, the thermostat can, and frequently is, destroyed. No point in trying to reuse it. And another tip... When you go to a track event, take a new stat with you. It can save the day. Jenny Morgan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 20:08:40 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: M Kittock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Thermostat failure Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FWIW, my thermostat failed during a track event. Fortunately, I noted the temperature needle moving high and knew that was a bad sign. That was the original thermostat at about 85K miles. Mark '96 328i -----Original Message----- From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Jul 10, 2005 7:40 PM To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: [UUC] Thermostat failure I was at the track this weekend with NASA Midwest region at the Autobahn Country Club. At the end of my second session on Saturday, I overheated. I opened the hood to find a steamy mess, the overflow return hose (skinny hose at the top of the radiator) had blown off and had mutually self destructed along with the viscous fan blades. I removed the fan and replaced the hose with some Autozone bulk hose, filled her up and started the car. It overheated again within 5 minutes of idling. I called it a day at that point. This morning I returned with a thermostat body that I had previously gutted with a hacksaw (I overheated at Road America a couple of years ago and thought it was the thermostat then, it turned out to be the head gasket that time -- gutting the thermostat had no effect), installed it, filled up again and ran the rest of the day with no additional issues. The oil temps got to 235 degrees F today and the coolant moved between 1/2 (normal) and 5/8. This is on a thermostat that has operated for 10K miles and seen ~20 track days. I replaced every part of the cooling system when I was chasing what turned out to be the head gasket, so I am reasonably sure that everything else is OK. I have heard of E36 thermostats that fail initially, but is it common for them to fail so decisively at such a short service interval (albeit somewhat severe duty)? Should I replace it more frequently as sort of a track type preventative maintenance? Is there a better quality thermostat available? Do E36 race cars use the stock thermostat? Thanks for whatever information you might have. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2005 20:56:40 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 325i question - OBD1 O2 sensor & MPG needle Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Perhaps the coolant temperature sensor is bad and causing over enrichment when cold. The DME goes closed loop as soon as it can, that usually means when the exhaust sensor warms up and begins outputting a signal. Gary Derian > > Wow! This is great information for the problem I am chasing on my E30... > > My car has all the classic signs of running rich, except that I never get > a > CE light and it all seems happy once it warms up. The lack of CE light and > the exhaust cleaning up once it warms up leads me to suspect something > other > than the O2 sensor. > > How does the DME determine when to switch from open loop to closed loop > operation? Is this a timer internal to the DME, the thermo-time switch, or > something based on the coolant temperature sensor? Is the temperature > sensor > that talks to the DME also the one that talks to the temperature gauge > inside the car? > > Also, anyone have a good lead on an exhaust for an E30 325i? One of my > exhaust tips had an argument with an extra steep driveway I was backing > into > and punched the back of my muffler open. I now have a distinctly > "coffee-can" sounding exhaust... but I can tell that it is definitely rich > on start up. Lot's of unburnt fuel smell. > > -- Joe > > -- > Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2005 21:30:55 -0400 From: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: New clutch problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> From your order record, it appears you have the organic disk. This should definitely not result in any clutch chatter at all - if you are indeed having clutch chatter with that disk, then there is undoubtedly a problem either with the components or the installation. While we are always willing to explore the idea of defective components, from experience we often find installation to play a statistically more prevalent role in malfunctions. There could be pressure plate bolts that were not done to spec, or even left out, or even a couple of other installation details awry... including fouling of the clutch disk with spline lube. Are you encountering any vibration with increased rpm? As for the gear rattle (for details on what causes it, see http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/gear_rattle.htm ), there is a large variation from car to car, even with the same-model gearbox. On cars that are at the extreme end of the scale with gearbox rattle, we've had better results with straight MT-90. Increasing the idle speed is a definite cure - many customers have found the 80rpm bump that can be implemented with the dealer GT-1 diagnostic computer is sufficient. Beyond that, PowerChip in the UK can offer just the software for a larger bump to approximately 900rpm. Please feel free to call me directly on Monday to discuss further. - Rob Levinson UUC Motorwerks * 908-874-9092 * http://www.uucmotorwerks.com On Jul 10, 2005, at 10:51 AM, Craig Robson wrote: > All: > I had the UUC lightweight flywheel and M5 clutch installed by a > professional on my E46 M3, but I am having some problems. > > First, I am getting a lot of clutch chatter, so much that it appears > to have > ruined my center support bearing (or could that have been caused by > something else like a loose bolt somewhere?). What could be causing the > chatter? The Bentley did not have the torque value for the flywheel so > he > looked it up in his computer and he says it gave him two values of > which he > chose the higher (90 something ft-lbs). For the bolts holding the > clutch to > the flywheel, he says he did one or two ft-lbs more than factory spec, > so > like 27 I think. > > Second problem I am having is the transmission rattle. We replaced the > fluid > with Motul 75-90 (what was handy) and it had little to no effect. > Should I > try Redline MTL 90? My mechanic thinks it is the input shaft bearing > on the > transmission, but I disagree. I think it is just the rattle since if I > turn > the A/C off it goes to a bearable level. Should I try ordering a chip > and > bumping the idle up a bit? > > > Craig Robson > '01 M3<-- please help me! ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2005 22:00:29 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Scott at Work" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: About Those Airport Driving Events... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As posted on the Bay Area Auto-X List: aka http://tinyurl.com/7ngux Scott ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2005 23:15:05 -0700 From: "T WALROD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "bmw digest" <[email protected]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E30> Engine removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Lotsa ways to skin a cat. I have a thing about bench pressing transmissions as the stinky oil pours out into your hair. When I did our 325 I pulled engine and trans as a unit - zero hassle with mating bolts, way easy to mate engine and trans on the floor, kind of a big pain getting just the right angle on the engine and trans and right height of the car to allow the mated pair to angle in the hole. When the M42 318 was done I think Chiltons called for dropping the trans and then pulling the engine, a la Jenny's method. I looked at all the room between the evap core and the engine and decided to just pull the engine. That worked, but remating the pair was a bit awkward as I kept readjusting the engine and trans angles. One thing I did do on installation was pull the rubber motor mounts, which allows the engine and trans to move away from the tunnel, making access to the engine/trans bolts much easier - wish I had done that before pulling the engine. Labels: good tip. Protect the expensive fragile stuff - I wired a piece of plywood over the evap core and managed to pinch a power steering hose, though not fatally. Tom ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 11:20:40 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E30> Engine removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jenny, Carlos, Gary, Tom.... thanks for the inputs. Jenny, I don't quite understand the response to the oil pressure connector (and other connector) question. If the oil pressure connector to the sensor is part of the main bus which I've pulled from the DME I don't need to thread it through the bracket etc. I'll just leave it connected. I'll check it again to make sure it won't possibly shear off during the extraction. One other question about this oil pressure connector, when I removed it from the sensor , green coolant came out of the boot?/connector?. Is this an indication of some larger problem or a common occurence? Thanks, Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 13:28:16 -0500 From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Engine removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You're lucky... Most of the wires that led to the OP sender went under the ac bracket to keep it from hangin in the breeze. The coolant in the harness tells me your throttlebody heater gasket MAY be leaking. Jenny On Jul 11, 2005, at 1:20 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Jenny, Carlos, Gary, Tom.... thanks for the inputs. > > Jenny, I don't quite understand the response to the oil pressure > connector > (and other connector) question. If the oil pressure connector to the > sensor > is part of the main bus which I've pulled from the DME I don't need to > thread it through the bracket etc. I'll just leave it connected. I'll > check > it again to make sure it won't possibly shear off during the > extraction. > > One other question about this oil pressure connector, when I removed it > from the sensor , green coolant came out of the boot?/connector?. Is > this > an indication of some larger problem or a common occurence? > > Thanks, Kevin > ---------------------------------------------------------------- > This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only > for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have > been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the > intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose > the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the > sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying > to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of > it. Thank you. > ---------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > _______________________________________________________________________ > ___ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW > CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 16:18:07 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Engine removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reminds me of the 3 Stooges episode when they connected the electrical conduit to the water pipe. Your coolant is the wrong color. Gary Derian > > One other question about this oil pressure connector, when I removed it > from the sensor , green coolant came out of the boot?/connector?. Is this > an indication of some larger problem or a common occurence? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 09:58:31 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Nelson Ledges Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Carlos/others - See ya at Nelson next weekend. Neil Simon 99 M Coupe DC tags MDORPHN ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 14:32:10 -0400 From: Jeff Day <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: clutch slave cylinder problem? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Relative newcomer to the list. First time posting. I have a 91 318IS which I am encountering some "hardness" in the travel of the clutch pedal intermittently. Does not happen at any specific RPM or speed and the clutch does not appear to be slipping. Is this a slave cylinder problem or something larger?? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2005 16:16:23 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Jeff Day" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: clutch slave cylinder problem? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Probably the throwout bearing hanging up on the guide sleeve. Tranny needs to come out, then all the "while you're in there..." stuff applies. Gary Derian > Relative newcomer to the list. First time posting. I have a 91 318IS > which I am encountering some "hardness" in the travel of the clutch > pedal intermittently. Does not happen at any specific RPM or speed > and the clutch does not appear to be slipping. Is this a slave > cylinder problem or something larger?? > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages) **********
