The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 759 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: mystery CE light, its out again, take 2 Re: <E36> behind-the-dash gurgle? Re: mystery CE light, its out again, take 2 Decent paint/body work in Indy <E36> clutch problem 318ti CELs Re: 318ti CELs Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(12 messages) Rear end noise Re: Rear end noise Re: Rear end noise Re: Rear end noise Re: Rear end noise
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 18:53:27 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "JKerouac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Richard Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: mystery CE light, its out again, take 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Your dyno sessions were to dial in the fuel pressure? What about the spark curve, how was that affected? It is mapped with load and rpm just like the fuel curve. Airboxes do have resonances that are compensated for in the tables. You may have a bad EGO, or the odd calibration is causing a problem like Rich suggested. Gary Derian > Rich & Gary, > 24# injectors, adjustable fpr, larger MAF tube with stock sensor. With > a few dyno $essions, and a developmental airbox someone interested in my > project sent me to try, I arrived at a lower fuel pressure that, with that > airbox, gave a flatter than expected air/fuel curve, 5 more hp, and no CE > lights. > The flaws with the stock airbox sans air silencer horn were that the > air/fuel curve, and consequently the torque curve, was jumpy, and that the > outlet hole was still only 3" while the inlet to my tube is3 1/4". > One design goal of that airbox is to provide a very smooth air flow > across the rev range, whereas one flaw of many CAIs is that they can be > peaky and have resonances which need the s/w to compensate for them. > It was baffling initially when the CE returned. Now in knowing now > that there was a cooling system leak, and connecting the possibility of an > O2 sensor fault from hosing out the engine compartment, it seems that > dialing in the mixture via the airbox and fuel pressure to even out of the > air/fuel curve might have solved the CE problem. I'm going to stop using > the Redline and see what happens. > Barry > > Richard Dorffer wrote: > >>Correct me if I am wrong, but don't you have a modified and larger intake, >>modified and larger >>adjustable fuel pressure regulator, bypassed fuel pressure check valve and >>sensor and 24# >>injectors? Personally, I would be looking at some of those things as the >>reason you have an >>on/off CE light. >>Regards, >>Rich >> >>--- JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >>>Can low cooling system pressure or a leak cause a CE light? >>>Can Redline SL1 cause a borderline CE light to extinguish? >>>Can heavily hosing down the engine and undercarriage have gotten water in >>>somewhere to trip a fault which required so many miles without it >>>reoccuring for the CE to go out? >>>Why I ask these questions: >>> Recently >>> > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 21:21:58 -0500 (CDT) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> behind-the-dash gurgle? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Apologies for beating this to death... but I believe this has something to do with the turn signal/flasher 'click'. Where does that come from anyway? If I run the flashers, the gurgle/buzz/whatever stops while the lights light, and returns during the off half of the cycle. Not sure if it's the 'click' gizmo that's gurgling or something else in the path, but I'm onto something here. I pulled the flasher relay, no change. Failing/noisy switch? 'Click' thing failing? Anybody? - k On Tue, 2 Aug 2005, Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) wrote: > > Something in the cluster is doing this. Occaisionally, it stops... and clicks > when it stops. And then clicks when it starts up again. Almost like a relay > on the way out? And it seems to be getting louder. Cluster is still working, > though. [ ...snip ] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 00:28:51 -0700 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: mystery CE light, its out again, take 2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Did check engine compression a few months ago, no wide variations. The coolant level was dropping more than a head gasket seepage could account for, and the leak seems to be gone now. However, it probably is a good idea to check coolant system pressure. What is, and where would I get a detectant die? What kind of gauge is needed? Something a properly equipped non-dealer can do? Thx, Barry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > In a message dated 8/2/2005 2:15:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > t, and 1.5 gallons of coolant to the system. Previously there > was 1/2 gallon coolant and two bottles of Water Wetter. Seems the > stronger concentration was more slippery enough than the weak mix to > seep through the water pump seal more easily. It was strange to see > that after continually topping up the system with water as it leaked, > eventually with mostly straight water the leak again was only a > slight > dribble. > > have you checked with a pressure gauge and a dectectan dye for head > gasket leaks? This sounds more consistent with your issues, possibly > a small leak into the combustion chamber without any oil moving into > the water jacket... > > ~Tom ------------------------------ Date: 3 Aug 2005 14:42:05 -0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Decent paint/body work in Indy Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have an e34 525it which needs some cosmetic TLC. A large blister has formed on one of the doors - I took a razor blade to it last night to find out what was going on under there. Filler - with rust forming under it. Obviously needs to be removed and redone. I live in Indianapolis - have never had any body work done here. Any tips for a decent shop - west side of town would be preferred. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 11:26:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: <E36> clutch problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey guys, gotta vent: I got into my car yesterday morning and noticed the clutch felt a bit soft. I drove to work (getting rear-ended on the way there), and the clutch worked fine the entire way, aside from the feeling soft part. I was having a tough time deciding whether or not I suddenly had an increase in strength in my left leg muscle (unlikely), or if something was actually wrong with the clutch. On the way home, I downshifted as I ascended the exit ramp of the freeway, and as soon as I let out the clutch pedal after downshifting, I could feel something was very wrong. The clutch felt like jell-o coming back up. Being so distracted, I turned right, then left onto the next street, and was then pulled over for making a right off the freeway on a red light. I had forgotten about that because of the clutch. grrr... >:-O What a crappy day. Anyway, my question is: anyone know what exactly could be wrong? I am pretty sure the master or slave is leaking, because the brake fluid looks a little bit lower than it used to be. Is it possible for the fluid to leak onto the clutch disc or has just one of the clutch cylinders failed? Anyone have similar experience and have an estimate of cost for fixing? Ahh, I feel a bit better. :) TIA, Brian 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 12:24:21 -0700 From: Lew Becker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: 318ti CELs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My daughter's 98 318ti has started throwing CEL's when hot outside, with air on, at full throttle; no CEL's other times; engine sounds and runs different with the CEL's; but, stopping and restarting cures all (until next time). Peake pulled 2 codes: (1) Throttle Position Sensor and (2) Secondary Air Control. Any thoughts on what needs attention/replacing/fixing? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 15:35:26 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Lew Becker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 318ti CELs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My first thought is the throttle position sensor or secondary air control. The TPS can be checked with a VOM. I'd do that first. Do it while its hot. Gary Derian > My daughter's 98 318ti has started throwing CEL's when hot outside, with > air on, at full throttle; no CEL's other times; engine sounds and runs > different with the CEL's; but, stopping and restarting cures all (until > next time). Peake pulled 2 codes: (1) Throttle Position Sensor and (2) > Secondary Air Control. Any thoughts on what needs > attention/replacing/fixing? > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 16:00:11 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(12 messages) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 8/3/05 3:00 AM, JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > It was baffling initially when the CE returned. Err, I submit that you're still baffled. Until you read the codes to find out what the CEL is protesting about you're basically wasting your time. In fact at present you can't even be sure that the CEL is recurring for the same reason. There are way too many things you can diddle with, and way too many things the CEL can take offense at, to hope that shots in the dark will hit the right target. The $150 investment in a Peake code reader could pay real dividends. In fact even when you do have the code readout it's not always simple - ask me how I know... Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 16:29:37 -0500 From: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Rear end noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am starting to get a low rumble from the back of my car. It is speed dependant not engine RPM dependant. It seems to be coming from the left rear wheel area. The rumble happens most noticably around 40mph. It gets loud in the car at 40mph. I had a friend drive behind me to see if the wheel was vibrating at all and he couldn't see any movement. Not that that means much. :) I had the tires balanced at the beginning of the summer when I put the summer tires on. Something in the driveline is out of wack. What should I look for under there. I jacked the car up this weekend and took a peek. There is no movement in either axle nor the driveshaft that I can feel with my hands, again that doesn't say much. I really don't know what to look for or even know how to tell if it was warn. Any help on what to look for would be a great. Is there a better way to pinpoint the problem. Thanks Roy Collins 1996 328i - noisy little sucker ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 17:41:42 -0400 From: Vic Maslanka <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected], "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Rear end noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Check the easiest and cheapest stuff first. Swap the tires with ones that are known to be good, or at least swap the front and rear tires. Some tires get noisy with wear. Vic Maslanka ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 15:05:39 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Rear end noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, August 3, 2005 2:29 pm, Roy T. Collins said: > Any help on what to look for would be a great. Is there a better way to > pinpoint the problem. Wheel bearing. Jim Bassett ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 17:41:01 -0400 From: "Tom Clark \(toclark\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Rear end noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Roy, Drive the car (safely but making fairly sharp turns) in a serpentine fashion. If the noise changes pitch when you go from left to right, it may be a rear wheel bearing. It could also be your tires. Check this by swapping with a friend who doesn't have the same noise... These would cover a couple of the cheaper items that could be wrong... Tom -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Roy T. Collins Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 4:30 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] Rear end noise I am starting to get a low rumble from the back of my car. It is speed dependant not engine RPM dependant. It seems to be coming from the left rear wheel area. The rumble happens most noticably around 40mph. It gets loud in the car at 40mph. I had a friend drive behind me to see if the wheel was vibrating at all and he couldn't see any movement. Not that that means much. :) I had the tires balanced at the beginning of the summer when I put the summer tires on. Something in the driveline is out of wack. What should I look for under there. I jacked the car up this weekend and took a peek. There is no movement in either axle nor the driveshaft that I can feel with my hands, again that doesn't say much. I really don't know what to look for or even know how to tell if it was warn. Any help on what to look for would be a great. Is there a better way to pinpoint the problem. Thanks Roy Collins 1996 328i - noisy little sucker Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 19:06:00 -0400 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Rear end noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> agree. wheel bearing. i just went through this. > > From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2005/08/03 Wed PM 06:05:39 EDT > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [UUC] Rear end noise > > On Wed, August 3, 2005 2:29 pm, Roy T. Collins said: > > Any help on what to look for would be a great. Is there a better way to > > pinpoint the problem. > > Wheel bearing. > > Jim Bassett > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
