The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 800 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Re: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Re: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Re: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Re: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Re: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) <E36> Water pump Re: <E36> Water pump Re: Need advice on Portland Oregon inde Re: <FS> E34 Touring Floating in The 'Bay FS - e34 535i 5 speed Re: FS - e34 535i 5 speed Re: E36 Noise (water pump?)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 16:53:48 -0400 From: Chad M Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> David, I purchased my first BMW about a year ago, `01 330i. My goal is to keep this car for a long time. I learned of www.blackstone-labs.com and read about some others who were conducting tests on their cars, oil, and brands. I decided to do something similar. I like having scientific evidence, not just someone's opinion. Being my first bimmer and not under any warranty I wanted to know should I follow the oil change interval as suggested by the OBC or is the typical change every 3K miles better or perhaps somewhere in between. I decided to conduct a test using Amsoil & Mobil-1. I'm still in the middle of this test. I can report that Amsoil went 7K miles w/o a major problem. Here is what blackstone-labs had to say on my last report "This oil went a little thick on you in the 7000 miles you had it in use, reading up in the high 30W range. Note the viscosity. We found no gas, moisture or signs of any engine coolant that would cause a shift in the viscosity. Regardless, this oil was doing a very nice job for your engine as wear still looks great, reading around averages for this type of BMW. With wear looking this good, we think you could run more miles per oil fill, if you wanted. Great engine! We have no problems to report at 68,500 total miles." The viscosity was measured at 67.5, values should be between 54-61, according to Blackstone Labs. Interesting I just went back and looked at the lab report from the virgin Amsoil 5W-30 I sent in, the viscosity level measured 65.9. The lab had this to say about the oil "Your new oil out the can read in viscosity more like a 10W/30 than a 5W/30, when checked @ 210 degrees F. We didn't find anything in the oil that would alter the viscosity. No significant metals were found and this oil was found to be clean and dry. This oil should work well for you." I had changed the oil myself as I had all four wheels in the air to swap summer and winter tires. This past time I went to change the oil and discovered that to do it myself from underneath would require putting all four wheels in the air again. :( I was busy with work and decided to try and oil change place, I had the filter. I tried to find a place to put in Mobil-1, no luck. I found a place nearby that had Valvoline synthetic. I figured 3K miles on this oil would not cause serious damage. It cost me nearly $70 to get out of there. I refuse to pay that much again to have my oil changed. I searched and learned about top side oil changes. I bought a pump online and used it yesterday on my wife's car (vibe). I was not able to get all of the oil out, but did discover that with her car I can get under it w/o jacks or wheels being in the air. I'm hoping that I can get all of the oil out of my bimmer when I have to remove this Valvoline stuff. My plan at this point is to finish up the 3K miles on this Valvoline synthetic and then switch to Mobil-1. I'll send in a virgin sample to the lab of Mobil-1 (though I don't tell the lab what brand, so it is a blind test). Then after 3K miles on the oil I'll send in another sample. Assuming no problems I'll top off (if needed) and continue for another 3K or so. I'm shooting for an oil change interval that is longer than the typical 3K miles but yet not so long as to damage the engine. My goal is to know wether I should be using Mobil-1 or Amsoil as my oil. I think oil change places say every 3K miles simply to get money from consumers. Like I said, I want facts not opinion. I figure maybe in the next 6 months or so I will have finished all of my testing. After this round of testing I'll take samples probably once a year and send them off to the lab for analysis. -Chad On Jul 9, 2005, at 11:57 AM, Maverick wrote: > Brett, > > I too use Amsoil. I would enjoy hearing from you and other members > experiences, good and bad, with their products. > > David in Richmond, VA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 16:00:53 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 01:53 PM 9/8/2005, Chad M Stewart wrote: I know this one of the most beat-to-death topic in automobiledom, but... One thing you may want to consider given your want to be as 'scientific' as possible is to utilize a consistent technique for the actual change process. So whether you drain the pan, suck out, change with cold/warm/hot oil, topping off between changes, etc. all of these can have enough of an effect on your results that the other objective factors may ultimately be less meaningful. >David, > >I purchased my first BMW about a year ago, `01 330i. My goal is to >keep this car for a long time. I learned of www.blackstone-labs.com >and read about some others who were conducting tests on their cars, >oil, and brands. I decided to do something similar. I like having >scientific evidence, not just someone's opinion. Being my first >bimmer and not under any warranty I wanted to know should I follow >the oil change interval as suggested by the OBC or is the typical >change every 3K miles better or perhaps somewhere in between. > >I decided to conduct a test using Amsoil & Mobil-1. I'm still in the >middle of this test. I can report that Amsoil went 7K miles w/o a >major problem. Here is what blackstone-labs had to say on my last >report > >"This oil went a little thick on you in the 7000 miles you had it in >use, reading up in the high 30W range. Note the viscosity. We found >no gas, moisture or signs of any engine coolant that would cause a >shift in the viscosity. Regardless, this oil was doing a very nice >job for your engine as wear still looks great, reading around >averages for this type of BMW. With wear looking this good, we think >you could run more miles per oil fill, if you wanted. Great engine! >We have no problems to report at 68,500 total miles." > >The viscosity was measured at 67.5, values should be between 54-61, >according to Blackstone Labs. Interesting I just went back and >looked at the lab report from the virgin Amsoil 5W-30 I sent in, the >viscosity level measured 65.9. The lab had this to say about the oil >"Your new oil out the can read in viscosity more like a 10W/30 than a >5W/30, when checked @ 210 degrees F. We didn't find anything in the >oil that would alter the viscosity. No significant metals were found >and this oil was found to be clean and dry. This oil should work >well for you." > > >I had changed the oil myself as I had all four wheels in the air to >swap summer and winter tires. This past time I went to change the >oil and discovered that to do it myself from underneath would require >putting all four wheels in the air again. :( I was busy with work >and decided to try and oil change place, I had the filter. I tried >to find a place to put in Mobil-1, no luck. I found a place nearby >that had Valvoline synthetic. I figured 3K miles on this oil would >not cause serious damage. It cost me nearly $70 to get out of >there. I refuse to pay that much again to have my oil changed. I >searched and learned about top side oil changes. I bought a pump >online and used it yesterday on my wife's car (vibe). I was not able >to get all of the oil out, but did discover that with her car I can >get under it w/o jacks or wheels being in the air. I'm hoping that I >can get all of the oil out of my bimmer when I have to remove this >Valvoline stuff. > >My plan at this point is to finish up the 3K miles on this Valvoline >synthetic and then switch to Mobil-1. I'll send in a virgin sample >to the lab of Mobil-1 (though I don't tell the lab what brand, so it >is a blind test). Then after 3K miles on the oil I'll send in >another sample. Assuming no problems I'll top off (if needed) and >continue for another 3K or so. > >I'm shooting for an oil change interval that is longer than the >typical 3K miles but yet not so long as to damage the engine. My >goal is to know wether I should be using Mobil-1 or Amsoil as my >oil. I think oil change places say every 3K miles simply to get >money from consumers. Like I said, I want facts not opinion. > >I figure maybe in the next 6 months or so I will have finished all of >my testing. After this round of testing I'll take samples probably >once a year and send them off to the lab for analysis. > > >-Chad > > >On Jul 9, 2005, at 11:57 AM, Maverick wrote: > >>Brett, >> >>I too use Amsoil. I would enjoy hearing from you and other members >>experiences, good and bad, with their products. >> >>David in Richmond, VA > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 16:19:55 -0700 From: Brian Ghidinelli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kazuto Okayasu wrote: > One thing you may want to consider given your want to be 'scientific' > as possible is to utilize a consistent technique for the actual change Not to mention - shouldn't you probably "flush" when switching between brands by running the new oil for several hundred miles, draining and refilling? Isn't enough oil left over to cause mixing of the two brands between changes? Brian -- Brian Ghidinelli > http://www.MotorsportReg.com MotorsportReg.com processes online registration and payment for your track, autocross and social events ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 22:20:00 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chad M Stewart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Maverick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I found a place nearby > that had Valvoline synthetic. I figured 3K miles on this oil would > not cause serious damage. Serious damage? Surely you jest. Just about any motor oil on the planet will do 3,000 miles with no damage and likely very minimal wear. Testing any synthetic motor oil at 3,000 miles in a modern BMW is a waste of time and money. > I'm shooting for an oil change interval that is longer than the > typical 3K miles but yet not so long as to damage the engine. Well, most of the quality synthetic motor oils are going to go 7,500 to 10,000 miles (with some capable of more than that depending on a variety of factors). Save yourself a fair amount of time and money and check out some of the results here: http://theoildrop.server101.com You can get most of the Virgin Oil Analyses there. Regards, Rich - with a stockpile of Castrol 0W30 (Made in Germany), Mobil 1, Royal Purple and Red Line products ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 22:35:28 -0400 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Interesting note. I like this bit: > I'm shooting for an oil change interval that is longer than the > typical 3K miles but yet not so long as to damage the engine. Where do you find 3K miles to be "typical"? According to Jiffy Lube perhaps, and certainly not with synthetic. 5K - 7.5K is our recommendation, depending on driving habits/conditions. I also find your Valvoline oil change story amusing. $70 for an oil change. That's about $3 more than we'd charge for a synthetic change. Given about $5/qt, 7qts, $6-10 for a filter, and 15 minutes of labour, it's a dead loss compared to some other work, but ya gotta do it. But I love the concern about Valvoline synthetic probably not causing serious damage in 3K miles..... Hello! Water would cause damage within 3K miles. Kerosene would probably not cause significant damage in 3K miles. Valvoline synthetic probably would not cause any significant wear in 15K miles, as with most synthetics. They don't cause wear due to breakdown, they case sludge due to the inability to suspend particles. Brett Anderson KMS -----Original Message----- > David, > > I purchased my first BMW about a year ago, `01 330i. My goal is to > keep this car for a long time. I learned of www.blackstone-labs.com > and read about some others who were conducting tests on their cars, > oil, and brands. I decided to do something similar. I like having > scientific evidence, not just someone's opinion. Being my first > bimmer and not under any warranty I wanted to know should I follow > the oil change interval as suggested by the OBC or is the typical > change every 3K miles better or perhaps somewhere in between. > > I decided to conduct a test using Amsoil & Mobil-1. I'm still in the > middle of this test. I can report that Amsoil went 7K miles w/o a > major problem. Here is what blackstone-labs had to say on my last > report > > "This oil went a little thick on you in the 7000 miles you had it in > use, reading up in the high 30W range. Note the viscosity. We found > no gas, moisture or signs of any engine coolant that would cause a > shift in the viscosity. Regardless, this oil was doing a very nice > job for your engine as wear still looks great, reading around > averages for this type of BMW. With wear looking this good, we think > you could run more miles per oil fill, if you wanted. Great engine! > We have no problems to report at 68,500 total miles." > > The viscosity was measured at 67.5, values should be between 54-61, > according to Blackstone Labs. Interesting I just went back and > looked at the lab report from the virgin Amsoil 5W-30 I sent in, the > viscosity level measured 65.9. The lab had this to say about the oil > "Your new oil out the can read in viscosity more like a 10W/30 than a > 5W/30, when checked @ 210 degrees F. We didn't find anything in the > oil that would alter the viscosity. No significant metals were found > and this oil was found to be clean and dry. This oil should work > well for you." > > > I had changed the oil myself as I had all four wheels in the air to > swap summer and winter tires. This past time I went to change the > oil and discovered that to do it myself from underneath would require > putting all four wheels in the air again. :( I was busy with work > and decided to try and oil change place, I had the filter. I tried > to find a place to put in Mobil-1, no luck. I found a place nearby > that had Valvoline synthetic. I figured 3K miles on this oil would > not cause serious damage. It cost me nearly $70 to get out of > there. I refuse to pay that much again to have my oil changed. I > searched and learned about top side oil changes. I bought a pump > online and used it yesterday on my wife's car (vibe). I was not able > to get all of the oil out, but did discover that with her car I can > get under it w/o jacks or wheels being in the air. I'm hoping that I > can get all of the oil out of my bimmer when I have to remove this > Valvoline stuff. > > My plan at this point is to finish up the 3K miles on this Valvoline > synthetic and then switch to Mobil-1. I'll send in a virgin sample > to the lab of Mobil-1 (though I don't tell the lab what brand, so it > is a blind test). Then after 3K miles on the oil I'll send in > another sample. Assuming no problems I'll top off (if needed) and > continue for another 3K or so. > > I'm shooting for an oil change interval that is longer than the > typical 3K miles but yet not so long as to damage the engine. My > goal is to know wether I should be using Mobil-1 or Amsoil as my > oil. I think oil change places say every 3K miles simply to get > money from consumers. Like I said, I want facts not opinion. > > I figure maybe in the next 6 months or so I will have finished all of > my testing. After this round of testing I'll take samples probably > once a year and send them off to the lab for analysis. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 19:13:30 -0400 From: "Russell Highton Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Amsoil results (was Re: Redline SL1) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You also may want to go a few more changes between brands. Switching between brands at each oil change may not be the most accurate. -Russ -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kazuto Okayasu Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 7:01 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Amsoil results (was Re: [UUC] Redline SL1) At 01:53 PM 9/8/2005, Chad M Stewart wrote: I know this one of the most beat-to-death topic in automobiledom, but... One thing you may want to consider given your want to be as 'scientific' as possible is to utilize a consistent technique for the actual change process. So whether you drain the pan, suck out, change with cold/warm/hot oil, topping off between changes, etc. all of these can have enough of an effect on your results that the other objective factors may ultimately be less meaningful. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 16:20:33 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Water pump Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The archives some time back indicated that the Graf water pumps (Brett) were the better aftermarket part. Is this still the case? This would be for the 328i which seems to be exhibiting thermostat failed open. May as well do the pump while we're at it. Brett also recommeded staying with the 80C thermostat.... also still relevant? Has anyone thought about coating the metal thermostat housing with epoxy? I've heard that the metal housing will corrode quickly and that the plastic housings are much improved. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 17:39:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Water pump Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > May as well do the pump while we're at it. Not Brett, but I like to go with BMW original parts when it comes to water pumps. Too many nightmare stories about aftermarket ones to chance it. I just replaced my water pump yesterday with whichever one Ganley BMW sent me. :-) > Brett also recommeded staying with the 80C thermostat.... also still > relevant? Sure why not. > Has anyone thought about coating the metal thermostat housing with > epoxy? > I've heard that the metal housing will corrode quickly and that the > plastic housings are much improved. Bah. My car already had the aluminum one so all I did is clean it with brake cleaner and it's now nice and shiny. :-) -Carlos. 98 M3 had to top off the water twice today after driving in the morning and at lunch but none this evening. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 22:49:34 -0400 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Need advice on Portland Oregon inde Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://www.iaibmvsp.org Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ben Dixon > Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 1:24 PM > To: UUC Digest > Subject: Re: [UUC] Need advice on Portland Oregon inde > > > Hey does anybody know of a good honest independent repair shop that knows > there way around a 2000 528i? My friend just bought her first bmw and I > want to make sure she goes to a "non ripoff shop". I can be contacted > offline at [EMAIL PROTECTED] thanks, ben > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2005 08:33:55 -0500 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <FS> E34 Touring Floating in The 'Bay Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Rob. I have the reserve set at $8000 which is $2000 less than I paid a few months ago. Cursed employee pricing on new 'merican iron is even killing the resale on the quality vehicles :^( PEC Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 16:22:23 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <FS> E34 Touring Floating in The 'Bay Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Paul, that's a sweet car! Can you share with us what the reserve might be? - Rob ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2005 07:34:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: FS - e34 535i 5 speed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am selling my 1990 e34 535i 5 speed manual. The car is black with a tan interior. Very good shape. New Bilstein shocks with H&R sport springs - not harsh at all, very comfortable ride, but sporty. Many normal wear items replaced in last couple years including battery, driveshaft, timing belt, head gasket, clutch, brakes, etc. Needs nothing. Approx 170K miles (so it only has about another 150K left on the motor). Minor stone chips on the hood and a small scratch on the right front fender. Leather is good with some cracking on the driver side bolster. No rust on the door bottoms! $4,950 OBO. The car is located in Fairport (Rochester), NY 14450 with a clean title. I can get pics by Monday. Vince __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 09 Sep 2005 10:05:29 -0500 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Vince Leo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: FS - e34 535i 5 speed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Uh, timing belt replaced in a 535? You may want to correct something in the post. Clarence West Bend, WI Vince Leo wrote: > I am selling my 1990 e34 535i 5 speed manual. The car > is black with a tan interior. Very good shape. New > Bilstein shocks with H&R sport springs - not harsh at > all, very comfortable ride, but sporty. > > Many normal wear items replaced in last couple years > including battery, driveshaft, timing belt, head > gasket, clutch, brakes, etc. Needs nothing. > > Approx 170K miles (so it only has about another 150K > left on the motor). > > Minor stone chips on the hood and a small scratch on > the right front fender. Leather is good with some > cracking on the driver side bolster. > > No rust on the door bottoms! > > $4,950 OBO. > > The car is located in Fairport (Rochester), NY 14450 > with a clean title. I can get pics by Monday. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2005 12:59:04 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Noise (water pump?) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I don't associate a clattering noise with water pump failure, but let me share a story with ya. My friend Bill recently purchased an E36 325is. He knew of the cooling system problems with this model and intended to change the water pump and radiator *real soon*. But before *real soon* actually happened, a radiator hose neck broke off, necessitating a tow. So he did the radiator, water pump, thermostat and thermostat housing. He figured he was now ready for years of cooling system trouble-free driving. He's on a vacation trip to Idaho. I got an e-mail earlier this week from him. He was between Crater Lake and Bend, Oregon when he heard a loud thwack noise. He pulled over, looked under the car and under the hood, saw nothing wrong, got back in and continued the trip. A while later he heard a couple more thwacks, followed by the temp gauge rising. Pulled over again, and under the hood, found that the engine-driven cooling fan had disintegrated. It also took out the overflow hose. He had it towed into Bend and found a German car repair place. The plan was to replace the fan and hose, and then pressure test the system to see if it still holds pressure. The mechanic was concerned that damage was done to the new radiator, in which case he'll be buying another one. So, 1) check your fan to see if it is coming apart and making contact with something under the hood. And, B), add the main cooling fan replacement to the list of cooling system parts that should be periodically changed as a preventative measure. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 07:00:39 -0700 (PDT) >From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> >Subject: E36 Noise (water pump?) >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I know diagnosing a noise over the internet is >difficult, but my 96 328i is making a slight >clattering noise that can only be heard (for the most >part) when outside. My first thought is that it might >be the water pump. I thought that I heard that BMW >uses a plastic water pump that tends to brake apart. >I don't have any cooling issues (yet?). > >It is definitely coming from the front of the motor. >Does this sound like a water pump about to crap-out on >me? If it is the water pump, how hard are they to >change out. It looks to be pretty easy. > >Thanks, > >-Paul >96 328i >03 G35 >98 Panoz AIV ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
