The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 785 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <misc> rear squeak, must be the RTABs? Re: <misc> rear squeak, must be the RTABs? Re: <misc> rear squeak, must be the RTABs? Re: Oil Viscosity Re: Oil Viscosity Re: Oil Viscosity Re: Indianapolis Area assistance/leads needed brake lines Re: brake lines Re: Oil Viscosity Re: Oil Viscosity Re: <E30> Motor extraction2 Re: Dallas area mechanics
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 11:37:29 -0500 (CDT) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <misc> rear squeak, must be the RTABs? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Got a rear suspension squeak/growl, thinking it must be the poly RTABs I installed a few months back (which I am increasingly unhappy with). Anybody with poly RTABs have this problem? Any thoughts on what I can do about it (short of going back to a solid rubber bushing, which is probably on the horizon). - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 35K, bone stock ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 01:18:28 -0400 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <misc> rear squeak, must be the RTABs? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Why do you care about noise on a race car? Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Got a rear suspension squeak/growl, thinking it must be the poly RTABs I > installed a few months back (which I am increasingly unhappy > with). Anybody > with poly RTABs have this problem? Any thoughts on what I can do about it > (short of going back to a solid rubber bushing, which is probably on the > horizon). > > - Kevin Jay ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 12:59:43 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <misc> rear squeak, must be the RTABs? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin, I have a squeak (no growl) since I put in my RTABs last year. Copious amounts of that lube that came with the bushings might have prevented the problem. I can probably learn to live with the squeak in the short term. I just hope there's no associated damage to the RTABs. When I tear the suspension apart again to put on the Eibach Pro-Kits, I may try to re-lube those puppies. N. Jay Herrick, Jr. 1995 M3 ************ > > Got a rear suspension squeak/growl, thinking it must be the poly RTABs I > installed a few months back (which I am increasingly unhappy with). Anybody > with poly RTABs have this problem? Any thoughts on what I can do about it > (short of going back to a solid rubber bushing, which is probably on the > horizon). > > - Kevin Jay > '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too > '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 35K, bone stock > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail- archive.com/[email protected] > > > _______________________________________________________________________ ___ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:59:47 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I use 20W-50 (Mobil 1) year round in the S.F. Bay Area (cold as 30 deg f in the winter, hot as 100 deg f in the summer). The only reason I would go to a 10W-xx is if I spent more than a day or two in the mountains in the winter. Presently we have a 4WD SUV for winter mountain trips (will be for sale soon), so the BMWs have not been exposed to that kind of cold weather. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i 1991 325iA >Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 12:55:08 -0700 (PDT) >From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [email protected] >Subject: Oil Viscosity >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Hey Guys! >Not to bring up any old flares on oil, but when I was flipping through my >Bently manual today I noticed that the correct viscosity of oil for the >ambient temperature in my neck of the woods is 20/50. I have always used >10/40 or atleast for the two years I have had the car (87 325e). I did >this because my owners manual indicated that 10/40 would be best, or at >least that is how I interpreted the book. In the Bentley, 10/40 should >only be used at a max temp. of 60 degrees. sixty is about an average in >Oregon, but it varies. Is 20/50 ok to use? What do you guys use in these >M20's? I am really concerned about this issue because I drive like sixty >miles a day. >Thank you, >Ryan- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 09:59:58 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rotella? Isn't that a kind of pasta? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2005 18:09:03 -0400 >From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> >Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I use 15W-40 Rotella. >Gary Derian <snip> ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 12:12:24 -0500 (CDT) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I ran 25w50 Amsoil in all my cars when I was living in MKE (same neck of the woods as Clarence). Still do here in JAX. No hard scientific basis for this, just a general feeling that thicker is better (so long as it cranks in the cold, and the poor point of this stuff is -35F). - k (no affiliation with Amsoil, just a satisfied customer for 25 years) --- original message --- From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity I have an '87 325iS and run 20/50 in the hot summer months, above 70 degrees and when track is involved. Otherwise I run 10/40. I've had no problems. Of course, this is dino oil w/2K mile changes. In the '93 525iT I run Mobil 1 0/40 year round. In your case I would consider how hard it's driven in the warmer weather. If you're driving it hard, I would use 20/50 otherwise I don't see why 10/40 would be bad. Others may say different and I'll be interested in some of the smart responses. Ryan Simmons wrote: > Hey Guys! > Not to bring up any old flares on oil, but when I was flipping through my > Bently manual today I noticed that the correct viscosity of oil for the > ambient temperature in my neck of the woods is 20/50. I have always used > 10/40 or atleast for the two years I have had the car (87 325e). I did > this because my owners manual indicated that 10/40 would be best, or at > least that is how I interpreted the book. In the Bentley, 10/40 should > only be used at a max temp. of 60 degrees. sixty is about an average in > Oregon, but it varies. Is 20/50 ok to use? What do you guys use in these > M20's? I am really concerned about this issue because I drive like sixty > miles a day. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 13:31:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Indianapolis Area assistance/leads needed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just a follow-up; thanks to everyone who contacted me offering names/numbers/assistance. 5erFest '06 will be in South Bend, Indiana, hosted by the friendly folks at TireRack. Which means we'll get to play around on their test track as well, and perhaps schedule a day at Gingerman .... Best, tammer __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 19:50:28 -0400 From: Carey Probst <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: brake lines Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just started losing significant brake fluid around the front of the diff. Looks like a line failed but I can't actually see the leak. How hard is it to replace the hard lines? TIA, Carey ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 22:24:29 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: brake lines Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The hard lines aren't that bad, I have done them on my now deceased and extremely rusted 325is. Buy a <$10 tube bender to make bending the tubing easier (use the old lines as a template/guide). Also, you need some good flare wrenches and PB Blaster (or equivalent). Might as well replace the soft lines there too, I have had decent success replacing them as well, not too bad with crowfoot wrenches and proper ratchets/extensions. Regards, Rich > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Carey Probst > Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:50 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected] > Subject: [UUC] brake lines > > > I just started losing significant brake fluid around the front of > the diff. > > Looks like a line failed but I can't actually see the leak. > > How hard is it to replace the hard lines? > > TIA, > > Carey ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 19:08:28 -0700 (PDT) From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Craig Robson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > P.S. The oil temp and pressure can be used to determine if your engine is > being protected well or not. Just reading pressure doesn't do much (except > for low pressure), just temp is a little better b/c it shows when you can > get on the engine and when you need to back off a bit. My car says I can > go > full 8K rpms around 130-140 F, but I wait until around 150-160 F > typically... Likewise, when the needle swings past 230, it is time to take > it easy b/c the oil starts getting a little thin then, or you can upgrade > the oil to something heavier (20-60 is what I have to run) or install a > (additional) cooler. Just a suggestion. > > Craig > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Craig Robson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Cc: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 1:42 AM > Subject: Re: [UUC] Oil Viscosity > > >> Thanks Guys! >> But what is typical average oil pressure. I know it will vary between >> engine speeds, but what is a generally the range? 7 psi I assume is the >> lowest since the warning light comes on at that point. i am installing >> an >> oil pressure gauge. I want to be able to use the gauge, give it a >> purpose >> you know. >> Thanks guys/gals >> Ryan- >> >> >> Ryan: >>> Relax, the difference between the two is small and secondly, I >>> wouldn't >>> use 20-50 if the average temperature is 60F. The 10 wt low helps in the >>> morning when the oil is the thickest, and the 40 wt helps when the >>> engine >>> is up to temp b/c your engine is so old. Secondly, people use 30 wt >>> down >>> here in Texas, so 40 is more than adequate for your car. >>> >>> Craig Robson >>> '01 M3 >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>> To: <[email protected]> >>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 2:55 PM >>> Subject: [UUC] Oil Viscosity >>> >>> >>>> Hey Guys! >>>> Not to bring up any old flares on oil, but when I was flipping through >>>> my >>>> Bently manual today I noticed that the correct viscosity of oil for >>>> the >>>> ambient temperature in my neck of the woods is 20/50. I have always >>>> used >>>> 10/40 or atleast for the two years I have had the car (87 325e). I >>>> did >>>> this because my owners manual indicated that 10/40 would be best, or >>>> at >>>> least that is how I interpreted the book. In the Bentley, 10/40 >>>> should >>>> only be used at a max temp. of 60 degrees. sixty is about an average >>>> in >>>> Oregon, but it varies. Is 20/50 ok to use? What do you guys use in >>>> these >>>> M20's? I am really concerned about this issue because I drive like >>>> sixty >>>> miles a day. >>>> Thank you, >>>> Ryan- >>>> Search the >>>> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >>>> >>>> >>>> __________________________________________________________________________ >>>> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW >>>> CCA. >>>> >>>> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >>>> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >>>> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >>> >>> >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 20:56:35 -0700 (PDT) From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Craig Robson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Craig, sorry about the repeated posts, Linfield is having trouble with their e-mail. Great information thanks a bunch! The whole point of me getting the oil pressure and temp. gauge is to monitor the condition of the motor, and to know which viscosity to be using. Thank you everyone for all of the information. Ryan- P.S. The oil temp and pressure can be used to determine if your engine is > being protected well or not. Just reading pressure doesn't do much (except > for low pressure), just temp is a little better b/c it shows when you can > get on the engine and when you need to back off a bit. My car says I can > go > full 8K rpms around 130-140 F, but I wait until around 150-160 F > typically... Likewise, when the needle swings past 230, it is time to take > it easy b/c the oil starts getting a little thin then, or you can upgrade > the oil to something heavier (20-60 is what I have to run) or install a > (additional) cooler. Just a suggestion. > > Craig > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Craig Robson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Cc: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 1:42 AM > Subject: Re: [UUC] Oil Viscosity > > >> Thanks Guys! >> But what is typical average oil pressure. I know it will vary between >> engine speeds, but what is a generally the range? 7 psi I assume is the >> lowest since the warning light comes on at that point. i am installing >> an >> oil pressure gauge. I want to be able to use the gauge, give it a >> purpose >> you know. >> Thanks guys/gals >> Ryan- >> >> >> Ryan: >>> Relax, the difference between the two is small and secondly, I >>> wouldn't >>> use 20-50 if the average temperature is 60F. The 10 wt low helps in the >>> morning when the oil is the thickest, and the 40 wt helps when the >>> engine >>> is up to temp b/c your engine is so old. Secondly, people use 30 wt >>> down >>> here in Texas, so 40 is more than adequate for your car. >>> >>> Craig Robson >>> '01 M3 >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>> To: <[email protected]> >>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 2:55 PM >>> Subject: [UUC] Oil Viscosity >>> >>> >>>> Hey Guys! >>>> Not to bring up any old flares on oil, but when I was flipping through >>>> my >>>> Bently manual today I noticed that the correct viscosity of oil for >>>> the >>>> ambient temperature in my neck of the woods is 20/50. I have always >>>> used >>>> 10/40 or atleast for the two years I have had the car (87 325e). I >>>> did >>>> this because my owners manual indicated that 10/40 would be best, or >>>> at >>>> least that is how I interpreted the book. In the Bentley, 10/40 >>>> should >>>> only be used at a max temp. of 60 degrees. sixty is about an average >>>> in >>>> Oregon, but it varies. Is 20/50 ok to use? What do you guys use in >>>> these >>>> M20's? I am really concerned about this issue because I drive like >>>> sixty >>>> miles a day. >>>> Thank you, >>>> Ryan- >>>> Search the >>>> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >>>> >>>> >>>> __________________________________________________________________________ >>>> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW >>>> CCA. >>>> >>>> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >>>> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >>>> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >>> >>> >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 01:21:17 -0400 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Motor extraction2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > An additional question, is it best to remove the motor mount nut at the > bottom of the mounts and pull out the motor or remove the mount top nuts > and leave the mounts in the frame? Remove the nuts from the top of the mounts, AND loosen the nuts at the bottom. OR, do the opposite. With one nut still tight, you will have some trouble removing the engine. With the mounts loose, the engine will come right off. Brett Anderson KMS - Koala Motorsport www.bmwdiffs.com 440 564 7574 9988 Kinsman Rd Novelty, OH 44072 (Near Cleveland) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 01:28:16 -0400 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Dallas area mechanics Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I recognize two of the shops on that suggested web site, but suggest that a company paying a few dollars to advertise with a local chapter should not be taken as a main reason to utilize them. www.iaibmvsp.org lists the two shops I know, and several more. All with strong credentials in BMW repair and service. All known to me and recommended by me. Take your pick. Brett Anderson KMS - Koala Motorsport www.bmwdiffs.com 440 564 7574 9988 Kinsman Rd Novelty, OH 44072 (Near Cleveland) OSS committee member >> Subject: [UUC] Dallas area mechanics > >> > >> Anyone have suggestions for DFW area mechanics? My car (01 > >> M3) is coming up on an Inspection and I don't want to get > >> reamed at a dealer, nor do I want to get some hack mechanic > >> working on the car. Would I be better off performing the > >> service myself (with assistance of Bentley manual of course)? > >> The valve adjustment doesn't seem too difficult, and the rest > >> seems fairly easy. Any suggestions would be greatly > >> appreciated. Did I mention that I cringe at the thought of > >> other people working on my car b/c it isn't theirs? > >> > >> Craig Robson > >> 01 M3 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
