The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 824 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: E30 no start Re: E30 no start Re: E30 no start Re: E30 no start Re: Clicking from right rear... Re: Clicking from right rear... Re: Clicking from right rear... Re: Clicking from right rear... Re: Clicking from right rear... E38 '95 740i high idle issues Re: E30 tire question E34 Touring, acceleration shudder Re: Clicking brake pads
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 12:05:18 -0700 (PDT) From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: E30 no start Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well I went out to the 325e this morning to go to school, put the key in the ignition and click...click...no crank and no start. I just spent some time checking some things with still no result to the problem. 1. The battery has 12 volts. 2. The coil is reading .5 to .6 ohms on the primary resistance. The Bentley indicates .50. The secondary resistance reads 5.54 ohms. The Bentley specifies 5000 ohms. These are the two things I have checked so far. The secondary resistance is concerning as this is not 5000 ohms. The symptoms have developed over the past two weeks. At first, in the morning, the motor would crank a little slow (I am running 20/50 and it has been in the 40 to low 50's here in Oregon). I thought that the slow cranking was the result of the oil weight. But then another symptom occured. Another symptom: Sometimes I forget to turn off the radar detector when i get to places like school or work. When I get back in the car and start it, the radar detector turns off while the car is cranking and then turns back on when it is running. It is plugged into the cig. lighter and should have constant power. At this point everytime I crank the car, a clicking can be heard in the motor. The CD player, radar detector etc. reset as if the battery was quickly disconnected e.g. a cd ejects from the player. Does anyone have any ideas? I would greatly appreciate a comment. Ryan Simmons 87 325e ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 15:58:36 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E30 no start Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Mon, Oct 03, 2005 at 12:05:18PM -0700, Ryan Simmons wrote: > Well I went out to the 325e this morning to go to school, put the key > in the ignition and click...click...no crank and no start. I just > spent some time checking some things with still no result to the > problem. Check all battery connections. Then check the battery too. Sounds like the starter has been pulling the voltage so low that all the accessories (like your detector) stop. If the battery tests ok, check the charging system when the car is running. If the car just clicks and doesn't crank, forget about the coil - the problem lies elsewhere. I remember that in the e30 325i, if the battery voltage is very low during cranking, the ECU mis-reads a temp sensor and thinks "very cold" and over-richens the mixture, essentially flooding the engine. That happened to me last time the battery expired. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 18:41:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30 no start Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Comments below. --- Ryan Simmons <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Well I went out to the 325e this morning to go to > school, put the key in > the ignition and click...click...no crank and no > start. I just spent some > time checking some things with still no result to > the problem. > 1. The battery has 12 volts. > 2. The coil is reading .5 to .6 ohms on the primary > resistance. The > Bentley indicates .50. The secondary resistance > reads 5.54 ohms. The > Bentley specifies 5000 ohms. I'm not trying to belittle your electronics skill or anything, but are you sure you set your DMM to the right limits when you checked the secondary resistance? There should be a change of settings between primary and secondary resistance testing. > These are the two things I have checked so far. The > secondary resistance > is concerning as this is not 5000 ohms. > > The symptoms have developed over the past two weeks. > At first, in the > morning, the motor would crank a little slow (I am > running 20/50 and it > has been in the 40 to low 50's here in Oregon). I > thought that the slow > cranking was the result of the oil weight. But then > another symptom > occured. > Another symptom: Sometimes I forget to turn off the > radar detector when i > get to places like school or work. When I get back > in the car and start > it, the radar detector turns off while the car is > cranking and then turns > back on when it is running. It is plugged into the > cig. lighter and > should have constant power. > At this point everytime I crank the car, a clicking > can be heard in the > motor. A clicking IN the motor? Or in the engine bay area? I'm thinking something might be wrong with the unloader relay, although your desription of what was normal was that everything continued working even while cranking. I thought the unloader relay disconnected all userland electrical appliances during cranking...that just seems odd to me, but I'm certainly not sure about this though so if that's what you normally experience, then that's what you normally experience. :-P > The CD player, radar detector etc. reset as > if the battery was > quickly disconnected e.g. a cd ejects from the > player. > > Does anyone have any ideas? I would greatly > appreciate a comment. > Ryan Simmons > 87 325e I too would go off what John said, and make sure you're getting good charging voltage (if you can get the car started of course). Of course, being sure that the battery is still good...don't rule it out even if it is a relatively new battery - get it tested if you haven't already. Some batteries hold a charge just fine but they just don't have a high enough current output. As a result, when you crank, all the juice goes to cranking and won't support any other electrical systems. Also, this is probably a completely rhetorical question, but this wasn't a transient problem, was it? You didn't definitively mention not being able to start it again at all, so I just want to confirm for the benefit of anyone else following this thread. :) Brian 95 M3 __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 20:02:04 -0700 (PDT) From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30 no start Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks again guys! I can always count on you guys to help me through my inability to rationalize a simple problem. I had the battery tested. It tested good and held a charge at 12.8 volts. Under a load test it only dropped to 12.3 volts. Although this is still relatively low compare to the 13 to 14 volts that Gary specified, it may mean that the battery is nearing the end. At any rate, I popped it back in and the car started fine. About the volt meter. I was only concerned that the reading was over 5000 ohms on the secondary leads. I was not concerned about the 5.54 conversion. I figured out during times of confusion that my volt meter reads differently when I was working on the motorcycle this summer. A small confession: The failure of the battery is I think the result of the oil temp. and oil pressure gauges. They are wired to the cig. lighter ;( which means constant power. During the times when the detector is left on, combined with the alarm armed, this I think is just too much of a draw especially when it is cold in the mornings. It has been fine this summer, but now that it is getting colder I will have to find a more logical solution for power to these gauges. For now I have pulled the fuse for the gauges until I figure it out. Thanks again...really. Ryan- Comments below. > > > --- Ryan Simmons <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> Well I went out to the 325e this morning to go to >> school, put the key in >> the ignition and click...click...no crank and no >> start. I just spent some >> time checking some things with still no result to >> the problem. >> 1. The battery has 12 volts. >> 2. The coil is reading .5 to .6 ohms on the primary >> resistance. The >> Bentley indicates .50. The secondary resistance >> reads 5.54 ohms. The >> Bentley specifies 5000 ohms. > > I'm not trying to belittle your electronics skill or > anything, but are you sure you set your DMM to the > right limits when you checked the secondary > resistance? There should be a change of settings > between primary and secondary resistance testing. > >> These are the two things I have checked so far. The >> secondary resistance >> is concerning as this is not 5000 ohms. >> >> The symptoms have developed over the past two weeks. >> At first, in the >> morning, the motor would crank a little slow (I am >> running 20/50 and it >> has been in the 40 to low 50's here in Oregon). I >> thought that the slow >> cranking was the result of the oil weight. But then >> another symptom >> occured. >> Another symptom: Sometimes I forget to turn off the >> radar detector when i >> get to places like school or work. When I get back >> in the car and start >> it, the radar detector turns off while the car is >> cranking and then turns >> back on when it is running. It is plugged into the >> cig. lighter and >> should have constant power. >> At this point everytime I crank the car, a clicking >> can be heard in the >> motor. > > A clicking IN the motor? Or in the engine bay area? > > I'm thinking something might be wrong with the > unloader relay, although your desription of what was > normal was that everything continued working even > while cranking. I thought the unloader relay > disconnected all userland electrical appliances during > cranking...that just seems odd to me, but I'm > certainly not sure about this though so if that's what > you normally experience, then that's what you normally > experience. :-P > > > >> The CD player, radar detector etc. reset as >> if the battery was >> quickly disconnected e.g. a cd ejects from the >> player. >> >> Does anyone have any ideas? I would greatly >> appreciate a comment. >> Ryan Simmons >> 87 325e > > > I too would go off what John said, and make sure > you're getting good charging voltage (if you can get > the car started of course). Of course, being sure > that the battery is still good...don't rule it out > even if it is a relatively new battery - get it tested > if you haven't already. Some batteries hold a charge > just fine but they just don't have a high enough > current output. As a result, when you crank, all the > juice goes to cranking and won't support any other > electrical systems. > > Also, this is probably a completely rhetorical > question, but this wasn't a transient problem, was it? > You didn't definitively mention not being able to > start it again at all, so I just want to confirm for > the benefit of anyone else following this thread. :) > > Brian > 95 M3 > > > > __________________________________ > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 > http://mail.yahoo.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 15:46:07 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Clicking from right rear... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "Goes away when I apply the brakes" Not just "decreases in frequency"? If it really does go away when you apply the brakes, perhaps it is something to do with the brakes? Pop off the RR wheel and take a look at the caliper, pads, rotor. - N. Jay > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jamie Howton > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 9:53 AM > To: E36M3; UUC Digest > Subject: [UUC] Clicking from right rear... > > > I noticed a rhythmic clicking sound coming from the right rear of my M3 > (106K miles, lots of track time) . It increases in frequency with road > speed and goes away when I apply the brakes. Does this sound like a wheel > bearing? > > Thanks > > -- > Jamie Howton > 2000 M5 > 1995 M3 > Hampshire, IL > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short > Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 16:04:49 -0500 From: "BMWBits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Clicking from right rear... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Emergency brakes rattling. Tighten up the cables on handbrake and see if rattle goes away . Could be loose brake pads in the calipers too .. Beepee -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 2:46 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] Clicking from right rear... "Goes away when I apply the brakes" Not just "decreases in frequency"? If it really does go away when you apply the brakes, perhaps it is something to do with the brakes? Pop off the RR wheel and take a look at the caliper, pads, rotor. - N. Jay > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jamie Howton > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 9:53 AM > To: E36M3; UUC Digest > Subject: [UUC] Clicking from right rear... > > > I noticed a rhythmic clicking sound coming from the right rear of my > M3 (106K miles, lots of track time) . It increases in frequency with > road speed and goes away when I apply the brakes. Does this sound > like a wheel bearing? > > Thanks > > -- > Jamie Howton > 2000 M5 > 1995 M3 > Hampshire, IL > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short > Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2005 05:37:37 -0700 (PDT) From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Clicking from right rear... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Does it happen generally when you go over bumps? Mine makes a clicking sound when I go over bumps at low speeds and goes away when I apply the brakes. It is the brake pads rattling. -Paul 96 328i --- BMWBits <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Emergency brakes rattling. Tighten up the cables on > handbrake and see if > rattle goes away . > Could be loose brake pads in the calipers too .. > Beepee > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf > Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 2:46 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [UUC] Clicking from right rear... > > > "Goes away when I apply the brakes" > Not just "decreases in frequency"? > If it really does go away when you apply the brakes, > perhaps it is > something to do with the brakes? Pop off the RR > wheel and take a look > at the caliper, pads, rotor. > > - N. Jay > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On > Behalf Of Jamie Howton > > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 9:53 AM > > To: E36M3; UUC Digest > > Subject: [UUC] Clicking from right rear... > > > > > > I noticed a rhythmic clicking sound coming from > the right rear of my > > M3 (106K miles, lots of track time) . It > increases in frequency with > > road speed and goes away when I apply the brakes. > Does this sound > > like a wheel bearing? > > > > Thanks > > > > -- > > Jamie Howton > > 2000 M5 > > 1995 M3 > > Hampshire, IL > > > > Search the > > > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > > ____ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW > CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short > > Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > > > > > Search the > > > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > > ____ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW > CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . > > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW > CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 > . > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 14:55:53 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Clicking from right rear... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Check to see if you have loose lug bolts. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA Had loose lug bolts once... >Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 08:52:39 -0500 >From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> >Subject: Clicking from right rear... >Message-ID: ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I noticed a rhythmic clicking sound coming from the right rear of my >M3 (106K miles, lots of track time) . It increases in frequency with >road speed and goes away when I apply the brakes. Does this sound >like a wheel bearing? > >Thanks > >-- >Jamie Howton ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 20:50:44 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: M Kittock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Clicking from right rear... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Check the CV's. Those were my symptoms on a 944T a few years back. Mark -----Original Message----- From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Oct 3, 2005 8:52 AM To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: [UUC] Clicking from right rear... I noticed a rhythmic clicking sound coming from the right rear of my M3 (106K miles, lots of track time) . It increases in frequency with road speed and goes away when I apply the brakes. Does this sound like a wheel bearing? Thanks -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Oct 2005 16:36:38 -0400 From: "Richard Vaughn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: E38 '95 740i high idle issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just did the R&R for the rear oil separator, replacing all the intake gaskets. Got it all together & now have a high idle problem (2000+RPMs & higher when I plug in the ICV). The feedback that I have been getting is that I have an air leak somewhere, probably pinched one or more of the intake gaskets when installing the intake manifold back on the engine. However, my ASC light is also on. I have checked all cable to make sure none are pulling on the throttle. Can anyone give me some thoughts on this? Brett, can you suggest where my problem exists? Richard Vaughn BMW CCA Tarheel chapter Soli Deo Gloria! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 14:52:37 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E30 tire question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Whether you can run the wheels with 3mm too much offset, or not, depends on the tire size you're trying to use. Should have no problems at all with 195s. Probably some rubbing with 225s. Maybe 205s are OK, I don't know. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 20:12:17 -0400 (EDT) >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [email protected] (bmw list) >Subject: Re: E30 tire question >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <Derian comment snipped> >I forgot to mention that. VW also used a hubcentric design in the same size >as the E30. Really the only question remaining is about the 3mm difference >in offset. So far, I hear no objections. I guess I will have to give it a >shot and find out. > >-- Joe ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 17:01:52 -0500 From: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUCDigest" <[email protected]> Subject: E34 Touring, acceleration shudder Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello, I was driving our Touring the other day to get some new tires. When I accelerated on the highway the car shuddered like it was going to fall apart! It was not tire shudder, it was a whole car shakes type of shudder. This was not typical E34 front end shimmy @ 50 mph that I have experienced in my 535i. I backed off the throttle and accelerated again, this time it smoothed out and drove fine the rest of the day and the next time I accelerated onto a highway. I asked my wife if the car had done this before. She replied, "oh yea, it does it every morning when I get on the highway, then it goes away." I guess the fact that it went away was her reason for not telling me this was going on, but that is another story. Can anybody point me in the direction of a possible cause. The car is drivable, but I'd like to get this fixed before it gets worse. Thanks. Andrew Harkonen 535i - 5 spd 525iT - does not take quarters, but shakes like a cheap hotel bed! STL BMWCCA -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 166 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Oct 2005 08:23:38 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Clicking brake pads Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Different situations can suddenly make you much more aware of brake rattles and noises than you usually are. The weather is cooling off, and I'm spending more time with the windows down. Couple that with a commute through a crowded neighborhood where little noises bounce off buildings and you're going to hear a lot of scary noises. Wait til you hear the rusty rotors afer parking your car outside on a dew soaked evening. Aftermarket pads may tend to rattle more, esp if they don't have the retaining clips on the inner pads (you probably know that if you track the car). the fact that it goes away when you hit the brakes makes it sound pad related. Marc Plante 1997 E36 M3/4 67k 2005 Child (15 days and counting) Vienna, VA ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
