The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 778 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: <misc> dirty air filter affects mpg? Re: <misc> dirty air filter affects mpg? Re: <misc> dirty air filter affects mpg? Re: <E34> Tweeter inoperative E36 Motor Mounts Re: E36 Motor Mounts Re: E36 Motor Mounts Re: E36 Motor Mounts Re: E34 tweeter inoperative Carfax Account E46 323i control arm replacement? Re: E46 323i control arm replacement? Re: E46 323i control arm replacement?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 11:43:37 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <misc> dirty air filter affects mpg? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, Aug 17, 2005 at 01:24:32PM -0500, Dewig, Mike wrote: > Another point of view may be to point out that the engine speed is not > controlled by restricting air flow, but by modulating fuel. At any > given point in the curve, it is best for the airflow to be completely > unrestricted to give the combustion process the maximum efficiency. Ok then, you best get in there and remove the throttle plate from your intake. Unless that thing is parallel to the airflow, it is a huge restriction to the airflow. Let me know how that goes for you, efficiency-wise. The fuel flow that modulates your engine speed is manipulated by the engine computer according to how much air flows through the air flow sensor. I maintain that one restriction (filter) is the same as another (throttle plate) as far as the engine is concerned during normal, part throttle operation. Back in the day of carbureted engines, a clogged filter had exactly the same effect as using the choke - the mixture was enriched outside of optimum and efficiency suffered. Now that the fuel delivery is under electronic control, it seems to me that a restrictive filter affects only power, not efficiency under part throttle. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 15:14:22 -0400 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <misc> dirty air filter affects mpg? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Better yet, use your next door neighbor's dirty sock. Yuck! 'Cept your car can't say yuck! Pingger > > From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2005/08/17 Wed PM 02:17:07 EDT > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [UUC] <misc> dirty air filter affects mpg? > > Or, replace the straw with a dirty sock. Might not even make it to > the end of the driveway! :-) > > ********************* > > > Your engine is an air pump. Any energy spent sucking air through a > dirty > > filter is energy not going to run the car. Run around the block > breathing > > through a straw for a demo :) > > > > > > Joe Della Barba > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Bolhuis > > Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 1:59 PM > > To: [email protected] > > Subject: [UUC] <misc> dirty air filter affects mpg? > > > > I see it written here and there that you should keep your air > filter clean > > because a dirty air filter decreases mpg. I can't figure out > exactly why > > this would be true. If your filter is dirty, you have 2 > restrictions in the > > intake - the filter and the throttle body. With a filter > restriction, you > > operate the throttle a little further open and the engine operates > as usual > > with the exact same manifold pressure. > > The situation changes if the filter is so clogged that you operate > at WOT > > often to compensate of course. But what's so terrible about a dirty > filter > > other than the top end power loss? > > > > ...hoping to spur some interesting comments... > > > > -- > > "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." > > -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro Search the > > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 14:58:21 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Dewig, Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <misc> dirty air filter affects mpg? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Diesels control power with fuel. Gas engines control power by regulating air flow. That is what the throttle does, throttle the air flow. Fuel mixtures are kept nearly constant. Gary Derian > Another point of view may be to point out that the engine speed is not > controlled by restricting air flow, but by modulating fuel. At any given > point in the curve, it is best for the airflow to be completely > unrestricted > to give the combustion process the maximum efficiency. > > > Mike D > > E36 soon to be track car > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 11:17 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [UUC] <misc> dirty air filter affects mpg? > > Or, replace the straw with a dirty sock. Might not even make it to the > end > of the driveway! :-) > > ********************* > >> Your engine is an air pump. Any energy spent sucking air through a > dirty >> filter is energy not going to run the car. Run around the block > breathing >> through a straw for a demo :) >> >> >> Joe Della Barba >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Bolhuis >> Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 1:59 PM >> To: [email protected] >> Subject: [UUC] <misc> dirty air filter affects mpg? >> >> I see it written here and there that you should keep your air > filter clean >> because a dirty air filter decreases mpg. I can't figure out > exactly why >> this would be true. If your filter is dirty, you have 2 > restrictions in the >> intake - the filter and the throttle body. With a filter > restriction, you >> operate the throttle a little further open and the engine operates > as usual >> with the exact same manifold pressure. >> The situation changes if the filter is so clogged that you operate > at WOT >> often to compensate of course. But what's so terrible about a dirty > filter >> other than the top end power loss? >> >> ...hoping to spur some interesting comments... >> >> -- >> "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." >> -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro Search the >> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short > Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 12:10:25 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E34> Tweeter inoperative Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Johnathan, Put a high impedance VOM across the tweeter and it should be a short. Open it's kaput. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 16:29:25 -0600 From: "Dave Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: E36 Motor Mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just completed my engine project on my 95 M3 and am looking for advice on engine mounts. I now have a bunch more horsepower and the stock mounts don't cut it any more. When I had the engine out, I had to re-weld and reinforce the sub frame where the stock mounts had ripped out. I also added the additional piece to the bottom of the sub frame to strengthen it. The car sees minimal driving on the street and I trailer it to the track. I am hesitant to go to the solid mounts because I do still drive it on the street occasionally. I also know that there are $700 plus mounts that you can get for the E36, but that is a lot of money. I am not concerned about vibrations because the car is barely streetable, now, but I am concerned about ripping out solid mounts with the normal freeway expansion joints. When I used to build drag racing cars, I always put an aluminum bar from the motor to the frame on both sides to keep the motor from moving during shifting. It still allowed some movement on the mounts, but was not as harsh as the solid mount, plus it did not cause undue stress on the mounting points for the engine mounts. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I should do? I have a track event in a couple of weeks and would like to make some improvements before then. Thanks Dave Miller 95 m3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 14:56:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Motor Mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Dave Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Does anyone have any suggestions for what I should do? I have a > track event > in a couple of weeks and would like to make some improvements before > then. Dave, a lot of people I know successfully race their cars with stock mounts. I think you took care of the biggest concern which is reinforcing the subframe, I would just install new mounts and not worry at least for that next event. With that being said, I believe Ireland Engineering sells polyurethane motor mounts for that car. Also Bimmerworld sells a weld in kit that supposedly limits the movement of the motor, looks like a sway bar link with rod ends attached to the bracket (that you get to weld in). Hey I have a set of solid mounts for sale, hint, hint, nudge, nudge. Just stop driving that car on the street, it's too rough anyway. :-D Carlos. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 11:52:49 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Motor Mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you're looking for more solid than OE but not totally solid like a metal mount, wait a week or so... UUC racewerks' urethane motor mounts for E36 will be available. - Rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 6:29 PM Subject: [UUC] E36 Motor Mounts > I just completed my engine project on my 95 M3 and am looking for advice on > engine mounts. I now have a bunch more horsepower and the stock mounts > don't cut it any more. When I had the engine out, I had to re-weld and > reinforce the sub frame where the stock mounts had ripped out. I also added > the additional piece to the bottom of the sub frame to strengthen it. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 12:01:21 -0500 From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Motor Mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I installed the Ireland Engineering E36 mounts, they work as advertised. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 15:15:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Jonathan Brush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E34 tweeter inoperative Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks, I'll let you know how it turns out. Jon > > Gruppe: > My '92 535 factory stereo puts out no sound to the > driver's door tweeter. I want to diagnose whether > this > is the tweeter gone TU or if I have bad wiring or > other problem. I do get sound out of the other LF > speakers, but it seems muted. If I try to drive the > tweeter off of my home stereo, at low volume, will > it > destroy it? If I put my cheap digital multimeter on > the wires, what should I see? > Thanks, > Jon > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam > protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > ------------------------------ > > Date: 16 Aug 2005 19:13:46 -0000 > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: <E34> Tweeter inoperative > Message-ID: > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > The first thing I'd check is resistance across the > tweeter. It likely says on it somewhere if it's 8 > ohms or whatever. A resistance check will tell you > whether the voice coil is shorted or open. You > should also get a TIC when you connect your ohm > meter to the leads - another confirmation that the > tweeter is capable of tweeting. > > You should see a variable AC voltage across the > speaker leads if you want to use your meter to check > that. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 17:20:33 -0700 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[email protected]> Subject: Carfax Account Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A friend is looking at a used car and I'm wondering if anyone happens to have a current Carfax account. Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 P.S. I'm heading down to Monterey tomorrow and I'll be at the Concorso Italiano, the Quail event and the BMW Dinner on Friday, at Laguna Seca all day Saturday and at a Land Rover event on Sunday. I'll have my laptop and Blackberry with me so I'll be in touch... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 09:59:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: E46 323i control arm replacement? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruppe, Difficulty level of E46 323i (6/2000 prod. date) control arm replacement? Compared to an E30/E36 control arm replacement? Pickle fork and some cursing will do as far as special tools? Am I correct in assuming by the ETK photo that the c/a bracket comes with the bushing already pressed in? Carlos. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 10:50:29 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E46 323i control arm replacement? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 09:59 AM 8/18/2005, Carlos Lopez wrote: It should be the same as E36, though I know someone who tried using a pickle fork without success. Every reference I've seen uses some other tool that looks like a big clothespin with a jackscrew in the middle to pop the inner balljoint. There was a production change in the bracket/bushing that upgraded the early 60mm ones to a later 66mm one (which itself went through at least 2 iterations). I believe the 66s are a direct replacement for the 60s, though I seem to recall that if the car has the earlier tubular reinforcement instead of the aluminum plate version, it will need to be shimmed or something to clear the brackets. >Gruppe, > >Difficulty level of E46 323i (6/2000 prod. date) control arm >replacement? Compared to an E30/E36 control arm replacement? Pickle >fork and some cursing will do as far as special tools? > >Am I correct in assuming by the ETK photo that the c/a bracket comes >with the bushing already pressed in? > >Carlos. > > > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. >http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 19:08:08 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E46 323i control arm replacement? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Carlos asked: >Difficulty level of E46 323i (6/2000 prod. date) control arm >replacement? Compared to an E30/E36 control arm replacement? Pickle >fork and some cursing will do as far as special tools? I did my '99 328i with pickle fork and cursing. I'd say virtually identical to my E30...with more cursing. >Am I correct in assuming by the ETK photo that the c/a bracket comes >with the bushing already pressed in? IIRC there are two varieties. One without the pressed in bushing and with. Without direct access to my records or ETK (at work) I couldn't tell which is which. Gilbert '87 325 '99 328i ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
