The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 329 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: 25 Hour race results Re: 25 Hour race results Re: Unix Nerd <E30> Parts car question. Re: <E30> Parts car question. Re: <E30> Parts car question. Re: <E30> Parts car question. Re: <E30> Parts car question. <E34> front suspension refresh Re: <E34> front suspension refresh Strange starting problem
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 10:42:13 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: 25 Hour race results Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://www.caranddriver.com/features/12119/2006-thunderhill-25-hour-update-2 .html I helped crew for the team and provided the data acq systems. I was supposed to drive on a Nissan team but the car didn't make it :-( It was actually fun being part of the crew instead of driving. But I'd still rather drive. Marco ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 16:56:40 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 25 Hour race results Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Wish we could have been there to see it. UUC Motorwerks provided swaybars for the cars. We're honored to have been part of MPME's race tuning of these cars. - Rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 1:42 PM Subject: [UUC] 25 Hour race results > > http://www.caranddriver.com/features/12119/2006-thunderhill-25-hour-update-2 > .html > > > I helped crew for the team and provided the data acq systems. I was > supposed to drive on a Nissan team but the car didn't make it :-( > > It was actually fun being part of the crew instead of driving. But I'd > still rather drive. > > Marco > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.6/567 - Release Date: 12/4/2006 > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 10:59:30 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Unix Nerd Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey John, It's been a long time since you graced the Digest. Welcome back. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 12:27:42 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E30> Parts car question. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It appears that the branching of the wire harness within the E30 cabin prevents me from pulling the main harness through the firewall. Since this is the case, is there any value in the fuse/relay box? I was going to cut the main wire trunk and remove the fuse box from the engine bay. Is there a smarter solution? -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2006 15:34:12 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], uuc Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Parts car question. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The entire harness is removed through the firewall into the engine compartment. Unless you haven't stripped the interior, it should not be an issue to remove it all. E30 fuse boxes are known to burn one of the main busses when people install bigger headlights and uprate their fuses without uprating their wires.... So, to answer your question, yes, there probably is some value in it, given a new one is over $120. The part in question is only the top inch of the fuse box assembly, and all the wires unplug from the rear of the board. Brett Anderson KMS [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > It appears that the branching of the wire harness within the E30 cabin > prevents me from pulling the main harness through the firewall. Since this > is the case, is there any value in the fuse/relay box? I was going to cut > the main wire trunk and remove the fuse box from the engine bay. > Is there a smarter solution? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 15:35:51 -0500 From: Kevin Henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E30> Parts car question. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ---- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > It appears that the branching of the wire harness within the E30 cabin > prevents me from pulling the main harness through the firewall. Since this > is the case, is there any value in the fuse/relay box? I was going to cut > the main wire trunk and remove the fuse box from the engine bay. > Is there a smarter solution? The harness will go through the firewall. pull the very large grommet under the fuse box towards the front of the car, then pull everything out through the opening in the firewall. I just did it with an '89 325i parts car of mine. Anyone need a complete perfect 325i chassis wiring harness? Completely unmolested, still connected to the fuse box. Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 13:24:42 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E30> Parts car question. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin and Brett, The main wire bundle has a branch that goes up into the kick panel area. I'll have to see if I can separate this branch from the main bundles. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 16:29:09 -0500 From: Kevin Henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E30> Parts car question. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ---- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > Kevin and Brett, > The main wire bundle has a branch that goes up into the kick panel area. > I'll have to see if I can separate this branch from the main bundles. Yep, it goes into the door and speaker area for the door connection and the central locking. There is a similar branch on the passenger side. You haven't disconnected everything yet. Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 19:34:05 -0500 From: Thomas Philip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <E34> front suspension refresh Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm refreshing the front suspension of my parents' 95k mi 1995 540iA. The car will never see a track and my parents are scarcely what I'd call enthusiasts, so the goal is good ride control, comfort, and durability. So far the car has gotten new front struts, strut mounts, and sway bar links. I'm planning to replace thrust rods and control arms. This raises two questions: 1) control arms: The car has the alu control arms. I notice other E34s had steel. I'm aware of the advantages of aluminum for performance purposes, but for a dedicated street car is the alu worth the extra cost? Are there any changes in geometry that would be relevant? 2) thrust arm bushings: I've read that the E34 M5 parts are the way to go for enthusiast cars. Are they also the smart choice for a street car or is it stock or perhaps the 750i bushings? Thanks for the advice. tom philip ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 21:53:53 -0800 From: "JS Nord" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]>, "Thomas Philip" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E34> front suspension refresh Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi, see inline. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Philip" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 4:34 PM Subject: [UUC] <E34> front suspension refresh > I'm refreshing the front suspension of my parents' 95k mi 1995 540iA. > The car will never see a track and my parents are scarcely what I'd call > enthusiasts, so the goal is good ride control, comfort, and durability. > So far the car has gotten new front struts, strut mounts, and sway bar > links. I'm planning to replace thrust rods and control arms. This > raises two questions: > > 1) control arms: > The car has the alu control arms. I notice other E34s had steel. I'm > aware of the advantages of aluminum for performance purposes, but for a > dedicated street car is the alu worth the extra cost? Are there any > changes in geometry that would be relevant? No real advantage to the aluminum arms for the usage you've described. > 2) thrust arm bushings: > I've read that the E34 M5 parts are the way to go for enthusiast cars. > Are they also the smart choice for a street car or is it stock or perhaps > the 750i bushings? 750 bushings will work fine. Some like the M5 bushings but they may transmit a bit more noise. If the ball joints on the thrust arms are good, you can pull the arms and have the new bushings pressed in locally. Good way to save some money. You can do the same with the control arms. Lemfoerder parts are preferred for durablity. Also good to check the steering box for lash and check the tie rods, center link and pitman arms. www.bmwe34.net has a good overview of all this. You may also want to inspect the rear control links (aka dogbones) if you haven't already. They are the typical wear item in the rear of the car. Cheers! Jeff 90 535i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 10:49:07 -0800 From: David Dee <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Strange starting problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Something odd has happened to my '90 535i E34. This is what has happened over the last few days. I'm not sure if these are connected or if they're coincidences, but I'm including it all to be complete incase it makes sense to someone. The car lives outside in the driveway. A few days ago we had an extra cold (for us) overnight temperature of -11 C. (12 F). In the morning the battery was low and the car wouldn't crank over fast enough to start, so gave it a boost with the battery charger and it fired right up. It's an old battery and I just took that as an indication that it was getting time to replace it. Everything was fine for the rest of the day. Overnight was only a couple of degrees below freezing. The next morning the car started fine and everything was AOK all day with several starts and stops. Again, overnight was only a couple of degrees below freezing Third morning the morning the battery was stone dead, almost like something had been left on all night. Charged it, jumped it and the engine would crank over endlessly, but wouldn't fire. Checked everything I could think of. Seemed to be getting fuel (and tank is full), but no spark. Checked the computer for codes, only 1444. Disconnected and reconnected all the connections I could find and no change. Checked the computer well for water (been bitten by that one before) but it's dry. Fuses all OK. Front and back. All the relays seem to work properly. Voltages were 14.5 on charge and 12 on battery. Ohmmeter on position sensors, one at 600 ohms (bellhousing) other (crank) 460 ohms. Replaced the crank sensor with a new one, just in case. Still the same. (Did I mention that It's not fun working on this in the driveway in the snow?) OK, now is where it gets weird... found this by accident. If I crank the engine without the charger or jumpers attached until the point where the lights are barely glowing and and the starter is virtually on its last slow growling chug, the engine will fire! Unfortunately it won't keep running for more than a few seconds since as soon as the alternator kicks in and the voltage rises, (I can see the lights brighten) it immediately stops. This behaviour is completely repeatable. I've heard of electronics that won't work when the voltage is below spec, but not the other way around. This one seems to only be working when the voltage is around 8 (not measured, just guessing) or fewer volts. So, can anyone think of anything that would cause it to react like this? David ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages) **********
