The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 3 : Issue 157 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: <E36> diff fluid change
  <wob> Test
  [OT] - My New M Roadster Pics
  M50TU primary chain tightener replacement
  Re: M50TU primary chain tightener replacement
  Re: M50TU primary chain tightener replacement
  Re: M50TU primary chain tightener replacement
  Looking for someone in/near NH to oversee PPI
  Re: Looking for someone in/near NH to oversee PPI
  Re: Looking for someone in/near NH to oversee PPI
  Re: E34 M30 Overheating

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Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 21:49:44 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <E36> diff fluid change
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yes, its OK.  But it is also Ok to re-use the sealing rings once.
Gary Derian



> Hey all,
>
> I went in to change the diff fluid yesterday in an
> attempt to narrow down the possibilities for the
> vibration and noise I've been getting on the M3.  I
> drained the fluid (it was a bluish-green color, seemed
> pretty clean).  What color is the OEM BMW differential
> oil?  I think I've heard that the Swepco oil is
> bluish-green also?  Perhaps it was that.  In any case,
> I'm replacing with Redline 75W-90.  I figure this is a
> good choice?  Also, I forgot to pick up new sealing
> washers for the drain and fill plugs, so I didn't fill
> the diff back up with new fluid yet.  The car is in my
> parents' driveway at the moment, and I don't want to
> leave it there over the long weekend until I can grab
> some new washers, so would it be okay to roll the car
> off the driveway and into the street without any lube
> in the diff?
>
> Thanks all.
>
> Brian
> 95 M3
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 22:21:20 -0400
From: KjR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC List" <[email protected]>
Subject: <wob> Test
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

-- 
Karl
#747 KP
http://www.elephantmotorsports.com


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 19:05:44 -0500
From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC <[email protected]>
Subject: [OT] - My New M Roadster Pics
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sorry about the cross-post and the OT, but I couldn't resist:

http://jhowton.smugmug.com/Cars/191020

Regards
-- 
Jamie Howton
2006 M Roadster
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 07:20:45 -0500
From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: M50TU primary chain tightener replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I've had the parts for several months and would like to finally install 
them. The car is a '93 525iT w/over 282k miles.  After a run on the 
highway, there's a clattering sound coming from the front of the engine. 
  I understand that the VANOS unit is often a cause of noise (meaning 
need to replace) but had heard the primary chain tensioner can also make 
a difference.

Bentley seems to indicate the tensioner simply screws out and back in.

I'm looking for confirmation of this procedure being that simple or any 
other insight into this.

TIA

Clarence
West Bend, WI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 08:11:23 -0500
From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: M50TU primary chain tightener replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Bentley seems to indicate the tensioner simply screws out and back in.
>
> I'm looking for confirmation of this procedure being that simple or any
> other insight into this.

Bentley is correct, the old one screws out, the new one screws back
in.  You will need a 32mm wrench and I would recomend that you put
some rags underneath the tensioner because some oil will leak out.
When you re-install the new tensioner make sure that the slot that is
milled in the piston is vertical so that it fits over the timing
chain.  Also, the first time you start the car it will still have that
"marbles in a can" sound.  Thereafter the noise should be gone
(assuming that's what was making noise in the first place).  I
recently did this on a friends car (95 M3) and the difference in
spring pressure between the old and new tensioners was dramatic and it
completely cured his top end rattle.

-- 
Jamie Howton
2006 M Roadster
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 18:24:47 -0500
From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: M50TU primary chain tightener replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks.  I know I've got a 32mm wrench somewhere, but couldn't find it 
and used a 12" adjustable.  It was very straight forward.

The engine was quieter immediately upon start up.  Even after driving 
it, the engine is much quieter than before.  But at the same time the 
remaining noise is clearly coming from the area of the VANOS.

Clarence
West Bend, WI



Jamie Howton wrote:
>> Bentley seems to indicate the tensioner simply screws out and back in.
>>
>> I'm looking for confirmation of this procedure being that simple or any
>> other insight into this.
> 
> 
> Bentley is correct, the old one screws out, the new one screws back
> in.  You will need a 32mm wrench and I would recomend that you put
> some rags underneath the tensioner because some oil will leak out.
> When you re-install the new tensioner make sure that the slot that is
> milled in the piston is vertical so that it fits over the timing
> chain.  Also, the first time you start the car it will still have that
> "marbles in a can" sound.  Thereafter the noise should be gone
> (assuming that's what was making noise in the first place).  I
> recently did this on a friends car (95 M3) and the difference in
> spring pressure between the old and new tensioners was dramatic and it
> completely cured his top end rattle.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 18:30:20 -0500
From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: M50TU primary chain tightener replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> The engine was quieter immediately upon start up.  Even after driving
> it, the engine is much quieter than before.  But at the same time the
> remaining noise is clearly coming from the area of the VANOS.

Are you sure?  Another source of front end noise is the serpentine
belt idler pulleys and tensioner and they are a whole lot cheaper and
easier to install than a VANOS unit.  I would use a stethoscope to try
and isolate the noise exactly before assuming that the VANOS is the
culprit.

Just my $.02.

-- 
Jamie Howton
2006 M Roadster
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 11:11:16 -0400
From: "Karl Rentler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC List" <[email protected]>
Subject: Looking for someone in/near NH to oversee PPI
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I am looking at an E36 M3 in NH. Hoping that someone would go take a
look and give me some details especially on known E36 M3 weak points.

Car is located just south of Manchester NH.

Thanks,
-- 
Karl Rentler
#747 KP FS
http://www.elephantmotorsports.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 11:20:48 -0400
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Looking for someone in/near NH to oversee PPI
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Contact Mario Langsten at VintageSportsRacing (www.vsr1.com)
- he can even do the PPI, and is trustworthy.

- Rob


----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl Rentler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [UUC]  Looking for someone in/near NH to oversee
PPI

> I am looking at an E36 M3 in NH. Hoping that someone would
> go take a look and give me some details especially on
> known E36 M3 weak points.
> 
> Car is located just south of Manchester NH.
> 
> Thanks,
> -- 
> Karl Rentler
> #747 KP FS
> http://www.elephantmotorsports.com


- Rob Levinson
UUC Motorwerks * 908-874-9092 * http://www.uucmotorwerks.com




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 12:10:58 -0400
From: "Karl Rentler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Looking for someone in/near NH to oversee PPI
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks Rob

-- 
Karl
#747 KP
http://www.elephantmotorsports.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 11:42:29 -0400
From: Phil Marx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E34 M30 Overheating
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

There have been many reports of defective brand-new thermostats for 
these cars (and E28s) from the BMW parts department, some of them 
quite recent. To be sure, take yours out and boil it in a pot of 
water with a thermometer in the pot and see where it opens relative 
to what it's marked. That's the only way I know to be sure.

-Phil

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