The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 149 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Plugs and wires Re: Plugs and wires Re: Plugs and wires Re: Plugs and wires urethane E36 RTAB squeal prevention Re: Plugs and wires E30 with 1222 code FS: Racing Rain Tires FS: Helmet FS: Used Autocross Tires FS: New Tires
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 21:42:35 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Plugs and wires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> well sounds like you have a fuel, air, or spark problem. <duh> sounds like an o2 sensor as the first thing to replace. Especially given that at WOT the car seems to run better, IIRC the O2 sensor is out of the loop at WOT. then think about the water temp sender unit, it drives both the gauge and the data sent to the computer that will the mixture based on coolant temp. If it's reading wrong it could cause a warm engine to run crappy. then maybe see if you can borrow an HFM and test that. finally and maybe you'll want to start hear is make sure all the connectors are clean and tight. A bud's E39 540 would literally die when warm. His shop spent hours and hours looking at it and finally I randomly pulled a connector apart and found it very corroded. My theory is that when his radiator blew up a month earlier it spewed coolant all over that connector and mucked it up. After we cleaned it no more problem. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Peacock Sent: Friday, May 19, 2006 6:15 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] Plugs and wires It is hard to explain. It runs perfect when it is cool outside or the car is cool. Once hot, upon first taking off from a stop it sputters. If you full throttle it, you can get past the sputter. But when you shift is spits once more tehn seems to run fine as long as you stay in the throttle. No check engine lights. No codes. I have the Peake code reader and SRS reader. ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Friday, May 19, 2006 8:19 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Plugs and wires > Did you mean "stutter" or "judder"? ;-) > > As already noted, you don't have traditional wires nor a > cap/rotor assembly. > > However, you do have what BMW calls a "spark plug socket", > effectively a hard wire connecting the cylinder's individual > coil pack with the sparkplug. These should be replaced as > they degrade/burn out just like wires. > > See part #3: > http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG13&mospid=47485&btnr=12_0425 &hg=12&fg=05 > > Not to be overlooked is the ignition coils themselves; while > long-lived, they can fail and definitely do function > sub-optimally after 70K miles. At $60 each, not cheap - > change the sockets first and see if that helps. > > O2 sensor - good idea to change. > > Air filter - NO K&N. No oiled gauze in a car with HFM > (which means just about all BMWs built from late '80s > onward). Not looking to spark the inevitable debate, but > too many of these have correlated with enough problems to > avoid the obvious connection. Stick with a good foam filter > or OE. > > - Rob > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Peacock" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Subject: [UUC] Plugs and wires > Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 19:05:23 -0400 > >> Which ones have proven to be the best. >> >> The 328 has developed a bad studder on accelleration >> lately. Not all the time, but admitedly I have not kept >> up the maintanance. It is currently the wife's daily >> driver with nearly 100k on it > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 09:33:55 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Plugs and wires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In my experience, the coil packs degrade over time. They continue to work, and work okay... but "okay" can overlap "sub-optimally". What I have seen directly is that cars with packs over 50K-70K that may start to exhibit some of the extremely minor changes in quality of operation that we take as normal, such as slightly harder starting (especially in cold weather), slightly rougher idle, and perhaps throttle response or power delivery that simply doesn't have the crispness that it did when new, may be due to the coil packs. True story; I was testing a set of aftermarket "high performance" coil packs to see if they actually delivered on the manufacturer's claims. Test parameters: 1 car, 1 dyno, monitor temps, car never leaves dyno. Test car "as is" for baseline, and then test "high performance" coil packs. Simple, right? Wrong. A valid test is not compared to the 70K-mile packs that were in the car, but brand-new BMW coil packs. Bought a set, used the testing opportunity to do a three-way comparison. Synopsis of results: fresh OEM coils delivered a smoother power curve with about a 6hp "re-gain" at the top end (re-gain because the car always had 'em, the tired coils had lost the power). Idle and ease of starting had improved. And what about the 3X more expensive aftermarket "high performance" coils? Aside from the pretty red light on each one, the dyno curves were indistinguishable from the fresh OEM coils. The only parameter not tested, of course, was longevity. But even if the "high perf" coils lasted 3X as long as the OEM coils, at 3X the cost, the "high perf" coils were hard to justify as, at best, were a break-even proposition and without knowledge of the continuity of their peroformance over time. - Rob ----- Original Message ----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [UUC] Plugs and wires Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 01:50:12 -0700 > Instead of replacing the connectors, is it worth replacing > the whole coil? How different is the output of a 120k > mile old coil going to be from a new one? > tia, > Barry > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > >They just pull right off. As there is a rubber seal, you > >may encounter a seal vacuum... pull harder and -POP!- off > >they come. > >- Rob > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 22:52:18 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: John Peacock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Re: Plugs and wires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Coolant temperature sensor? Leaky throttle boot? John Peacock wrote: >It is hard to explain. It runs perfect when it is cool outside or the car >is cool. Once hot, upon first taking off from a stop it sputters. If you >full throttle it, you can get past the sputter. But when you shift is spits >once more tehn seems to run fine as long as you stay in the throttle. No >check engine lights. No codes. I have the Peake code reader and SRS >reader. >----- Original Message ----- >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[email protected]> >Sent: Friday, May 19, 2006 8:19 PM >Subject: Re: [UUC] Plugs and wires > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 01:50:12 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Plugs and wires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Instead of replacing the connectors, is it worth replacing the whole coil? How different is the output of a 120k mile old coil going to be from a new one? tia, Barry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >They just pull right off. As there is a rubber seal, you >may encounter a seal vacuum... pull harder and -POP!- off >they come. >- Rob > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 07:23:27 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]>, bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: urethane E36 RTAB squeal prevention Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Had these urethane RTABS sitting for a few months. Been holding off installing them because of squeel stories from those who have used them. Makes sense that they would shift sideways in the arm since there is nothing holding them securely in side to side. Currently there are stock RTABs with shims. Has anyone tried using the shims to hold urethane RTABs in tighter from shifting outward? tia, Barry ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 10:11:26 -0400 From: "John Peacock" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Plugs and wires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Oh right, I have allready done the drive belts. Thanks again John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Friday, May 19, 2006 8:32 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Plugs and wires > Don't use the Bosch aftermarket type platinum plugs. The OEM Bosch plugs > are fine. Also do not use a K&N filter. They admit dirt and no > additional air. Red Line is OK. > > Look in the owners manual and perform everything on the inspection 2 list. > This is a good time to change the drive belts also. > > Gary Derian > > >> There are no plug wires. >> Only the front O2 sensors need to be changed. For the trans use Redline >> D4 ATF. For the diff, Redline 70w90. >> Change the air filter too, or install a washable type like K&N. >> You might like the results with Bosch Platinum plugs, my //M3 does, >> others will argue against them. >> hth, >> Barry >> >> John Peacock wrote: >> >>>Which ones have proven to be the best. >>> >>>The 328 has developed a bad studder on accelleration lately. Not all the >>>time, but admitedly I have not kept up the maintanance. It is currently >>>the wife's daily driver with nearly 100k on it. The only thing I have >>>ever done is oil and filter changes, tires and suspension most recently >>>because the origional was worn out. >>> >>>So it is time to do some general maintanance. SO I am planning on doing >>>plugs wires(does this thing have a cap and rotor) fuel filter, tranny >>>fluid, rear end fluid, and possibly O2 sensors. ANything else you can >>>think of?? >>> >>>So which plugs and wires are tried and true?? How about recommended >>>fluids, fuel filter etc etc?? >>> >>>Thanks in advance >>>John >>> >>>Search the >>>ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >>> >>> >>>__________________________________________________________________________ >>>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. >>> >>>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >>>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >>>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >>> >>> >>> >> Search the >> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> >> >> __________________________________________________________________________ >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 14:51:35 +0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Peter Harkonen) To: [email protected] Subject: E30 with 1222 code Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I recently did some wiring inspections under the hood. I checked the backside of the connector for the O2 sensor (the harness side) and found some discoloring of the green/blue (it turned burnt orange for a few mm). I used some electrical contact cleaner, repeatedly reconnected the twist plug, and checked the shielded wire at the harness end and inside the glovebox within the end of the DME harness connecter. One unknown silver shielding wire was bent in a 345 degree turn within the DME end of the harness connecter, so I relieved it of such a extreme turn by sort of rerouting it a tad. After all this futzing, the car ran MUCH better. Better torque band, smoother power delivery and a much happier driver. This also mad the car throw a 1222 code after a stomp test. The check engine light will come on after the car has warmed up, almost at the point when I would assume the heating circut for the oxygen sensor would shut off. The check engine light continues to flash on and off in a random pattern, no rhyme or reason. Maybe more inclined once I have come to a stoplight, but not dependent on doing so. Who knows what I'm up against now for a fix? This O2 sensor was replaced about 10 months ago. I pulled it out to check it for carbon fouling and it looks pretty clean and the vains are open. Anyone experience this problem? Peter 1990 325i 5spd. Chicago ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 11:42:14 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: FS: Racing Rain Tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've got a set of Hoosier Wets (Motorola Cup tires) size 205/50-15 that I never got around to mounting or using. These have the same tire construction as the R3S03 tires. I recall being told that the compound is the same too, but others have told me that the Wet compound is softer. Regardless, the Wets obviously have a much deeper tread. These have been around, so they are not going to be the most competitive wet racing tires. Wet practice? Wet autocross? Some sort of rally use?? Originally they were $600-$700, I believe. Asking $250 or BO. The terms: Shipping is additional. I accept payment from your checking account through PayPal; or you can mail me a bank check, money order, or personal check. I don't ship until payment clears. I *might* be able to accept a credit card through PayPal -- depends on how long it takes to set up a new account. You pay the credit card fee (3%?). No reasonable offers refused. Stan Jackson Jr. NH ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 11:27:17 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: FS: Helmet Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've got an HJC CL-5 open face Snell M95 helmet for sale. Interior is excellent, there are a few marks on the exterior. Original box and owners manula included. $50 or BO. The terms: Shipping is additional. I accept payment from your checking account through PayPal; or you can mail me a bank check, money order, or personal check. I don't ship until payment clears. I *might* be able to accept a credit card through PayPal -- depends on how long it takes to set up a new account. You pay the credit card fee (3%?). No reasonable offers refused. Stan Jackson Jr. NH ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 11:51:13 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: FS: Used Autocross Tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've got a set of 4 older 225/45-15 Hoosier A3S03 autocross tires with 2-3/32 tread depth in the two grooves. $100 or BO. The terms: Shipping is additional. I accept payment from your checking account through PayPal; or you can mail me a bank check, money order, or personal check. I don't ship until payment clears. I *might* be able to accept a credit card through PayPal -- depends on how long it takes to set up a new account. You pay the credit card fee (3%?). No reasonable offers refused. Stan Jackson Jr. NH ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2006 12:08:26 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: FS: New Tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've got a set of 4 brand new (still with stickers) Kumho Ecsta 711 tires in 205/40-17. I bought them awhile back and they have been in storage. I no longer have a use for them. $175 or BO. The terms: Shipping is additional. I accept payment from your checking account through PayPal; or you can mail me a bank check, money order, or personal check. I don't ship until payment clears. I *might* be able to accept a credit card through PayPal -- depends on how long it takes to set up a new account. You pay the credit card fee (3%?). No reasonable offers refused. Stan Jackson Jr. NH ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages) **********
