The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 187 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: compressor Re: compressor Re: compressor Re: compressor Re: E36 Trans Ist Kaput Re: E36 Trans Ist Kaput <E30> Motor bolts WTB: TIS that cover e30 and e36 if possible Anyone dealt with Auto-Mark for Hartge and Wiechers bars Re: Anyone dealt with Auto-Mark for Hartge and Wiechers bars Race Trailer For Sale
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 07:39:46 -0400 From: "Richard Sperry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: compressor Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I had a Sears compressor, http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&pid=00916778000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes rated at about 10 cfm. It would die trying to run a cutoff wheel, or a DA sander. There simply wasn't enough volume. A 230V 20CFM IR did the trick. It laughs at the DA now. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 10:08:07 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: compressor Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I bought a verticle Coleman 80 gal in the mid/late 90's and it was rated at 5 or 6 HP, but it was a real rating. The very next version came out with out the external load starter and was rated 6.5 or 7 hp, but really was only good for about 3.5 or 4. I forget the CFM, but it is a 2 stage 175psi monster that laughs at most anything I throw at it. I think I paid like $550 for it and it has been great. I was planning on repainting my truck before I got sick, but I never did. Still glad i got the monster though. It is humid hear in Richmond and if you are going to paint you need to deal with the moisture. A big compressor and tank where it can run less makes less mosture in the lines, because it is cooler. I also ran a considerable distance of hard copper line to allow it to cool and condense before it hit my seperator. I rarely get a drop out of it. It all drains back to the drop near my compressor. David in Richmond VA -----Original Message----- >From: Richard Sperry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Jul 3, 2006 7:39 AM >To: [email protected] >Subject: [UUC] compressor > >I had a Sears compressor, >http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&pid=00916778000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes > >rated at about 10 cfm. It would die trying to run a cutoff wheel, or a DA >sander. There simply wasn't enough volume. A 230V 20CFM IR did the trick. It >laughs at the DA now. > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 13:34:18 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: compressor Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Oh, I did forget to tell you it is wired 220-240 on a 30amp circuit. Runs well. David -----Original Message----- >From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Jul 3, 2006 1:06 PM >To: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] >Subject: Re: [UUC] compressor > >A two stage compressor, one with one larger cylinder and one smaller >cylinder, is way more efficient. 1 hp = 746 watt so a real 2 hp is about >the maximum for any 120 volt compressor. > >Gary Derian > > >>I bought a verticle Coleman 80 gal in the mid/late 90's and it was rated at >>5 or 6 HP, but it was a real rating. The very next version came out with >>out the external load starter and was rated 6.5 or 7 hp, but really was >>only good for about 3.5 or 4. >> >> I forget the CFM, but it is a 2 stage 175psi monster that laughs at most >> anything I throw at it. I think I paid like $550 for it and it has been >> great. I was planning on repainting my truck before I got sick, but I >> never did. Still glad i got the monster though. >> >> It is humid hear in Richmond and if you are going to paint you need to >> deal with the moisture. A big compressor and tank where it can run less >> makes less mosture in the lines, because it is cooler. I also ran a >> considerable distance of hard copper line to allow it to cool and condense >> before it hit my seperator. I rarely get a drop out of it. It all drains >> back to the drop near my compressor. >> >> David in Richmond VA >> >> -----Original Message----- >>>From: Richard Sperry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>>Sent: Jul 3, 2006 7:39 AM >>>To: [email protected] >>>Subject: [UUC] compressor >>> >>>I had a Sears compressor, >>>http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&pid=00916778000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes >>>rated at about 10 cfm. It would die trying to run a cutoff wheel, or a DA >>>sander. There simply wasn't enough volume. A 230V 20CFM IR did the trick. >>>It >>>laughs at the DA now. >>> >>>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >>> >>> >>>__________________________________________________________________________ >>>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. >>> >>>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >>>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >>>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> >> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> >> >> __________________________________________________________________________ >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 13:06:42 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Maverick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: compressor Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A two stage compressor, one with one larger cylinder and one smaller cylinder, is way more efficient. 1 hp = 746 watt so a real 2 hp is about the maximum for any 120 volt compressor. Gary Derian >I bought a verticle Coleman 80 gal in the mid/late 90's and it was rated at >5 or 6 HP, but it was a real rating. The very next version came out with >out the external load starter and was rated 6.5 or 7 hp, but really was >only good for about 3.5 or 4. > > I forget the CFM, but it is a 2 stage 175psi monster that laughs at most > anything I throw at it. I think I paid like $550 for it and it has been > great. I was planning on repainting my truck before I got sick, but I > never did. Still glad i got the monster though. > > It is humid hear in Richmond and if you are going to paint you need to > deal with the moisture. A big compressor and tank where it can run less > makes less mosture in the lines, because it is cooler. I also ran a > considerable distance of hard copper line to allow it to cool and condense > before it hit my seperator. I rarely get a drop out of it. It all drains > back to the drop near my compressor. > > David in Richmond VA > > -----Original Message----- >>From: Richard Sperry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>Sent: Jul 3, 2006 7:39 AM >>To: [email protected] >>Subject: [UUC] compressor >> >>I had a Sears compressor, >>http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&pid=00916778000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes >>rated at about 10 cfm. It would die trying to run a cutoff wheel, or a DA >>sander. There simply wasn't enough volume. A 230V 20CFM IR did the trick. >>It >>laughs at the DA now. >> >>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> >> >>__________________________________________________________________________ >>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. >> >>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2006 10:06:44 -0400 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Trans Ist Kaput Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As long as the input bearing wasn't rough, all of them have play ( ball bearings have to have clearances for oil) , besides that's why there is a pilot bearing, to keep the input shaft in its axis. The real issue is that the ZF input seal is tricky for 3 reasons: 1) the outside diameter is quite large with respect to the inside diameter , so placing the seal perpendicular to the input shaft requires precision, 2) the housing lip is very narrow , which makes alignment even more difficult, 3) the seal is a tight interference fit, which hints at the need for some kind of lubricant/sealant, when in reality both housing and seal o.d. need to be clean, smooth and dry. Basically, a properly installed seal would have fixed this trans, although with 108K hard miles, it wasn't going to last a whole lot longer anyway. I would suggest you will feel a difference between old and new that may take away the sting of the bill. Brett Anderson KMS Jamie Howton wrote: > Since I've been too lazy (actually too busy playing with my new car) > lately, a couple of weeks ago I paid my local dealer to figure out > where the minor oil seepage was coming from between my M3 engine and > transmission. They diagnosed and replaced the transmission input > shaft seal to the tune of $1,188. > > I picked the car up last Saturday and trailered it home only to find a > small puddle of Royal Purple under the car in the trailer. I thought > OK, maybe they just didn't clean the inside of the flywheel housing > before they put the tranny back in and whatever was in there dripped > out - I changed the trans fluid. The only thing I had on the shelf > was some Redline MTF-80 so I used that. Cleaned everything up with > brake cleaner and let it idle, in first gear on jackstands for a > while. Drip, drip, drip - much worse than it was before I took it in. > I called the Service Advisor, he said No Problem we'll take care of > it; they sent a flatbed to pick the car up on Monday. I reminded them > that I had a track day today and needed the car back yesterday. No > problem they said. > > On Tuesday I got a call saying that the seal was replaced again and it > was still leaking. They now thought that the transmission fluid is > too thin for the application. I said, well, it's 80W MTF and is more > viscous than the ATF that BMW uses but if it makes you feel better you > can go ahead and fill it up with the BMW stuff. Wednesday I get a > call saying that it sat overnight without leaking and the mechanic put > about 20 miles on the car and it isn't leaking. I was a bit skeptical > but said OK and went to pick the car up. It was bone dry on the > outside so I loaded it up onto the trailer and brought it home, > checked it again when I got it home and it was still dry so I locked > the trailer and went to bed. > > This morning before leaving for the track I checked it one more time > and sure as $hit there was a small puddle of fluid under the car so > instead of going to the track I went to the dealer and waited for them > to open. I watched the mechanic pull the trans, it took him 30 > minutes total (WTF, where did the 8 hours of labor come from I thought > to myself)! It was leaking from the center of the seal and as he > grabbed the input shaft it moved within the housing about 1/8th of an > inch. After a brief conference with the Service Manager and two other > techs (and an examination of another Manual trans they had in stock) > it was determined that there should be no lateral movement of the > input shaft and that the transmission has indeed perished -- met its > maker so to speak. > > The trans showed no syptoms of this failure at all. It shifted > smoothly and didn't make any unusual noises, it just leaked a very > small amount. It does have 108K miles on it and many of those are > track miles so it isn't terribly suprising but I would have expected > some sort of symptoms besides the fluid seepage. My Pilot bearing is > still good, I replaced that three years ago when I installed the LWT > flywheel and it still seems to rotate freely without any discernable > lateral play. > > The bottom line is $1,900 for a rebuilt transmission and no charge for > installation, and no track day for me today because Badger Bimmers > does not allow Roadsters at their track days. I went there anyway in > my Roadster just to hang out and take pictures. > > All in all, the dealership have been superb in their customer service > (except for not fixing the actual problem the first time). I was only > charged once, I wasn't charged for the tow, the trans fluid or the > extra parts and I am told I am getting a 10% discount on the rebuilt > transmission. They even offered me a car to take to the track today > until I expalained to the Service Advisor that I would actually be > driving it on the track and wouldn't be responsible for any damages > that might ocurr; he had thought I was just going to watch so that > offer was quickly rescinded. For a second though I was tempted to let > that piece of information go unmentioned, they are a P-car dealer > too... > > Regards > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 11:42:59 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Trans Ist Kaput Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Basically, a properly installed seal would have fixed this trans, > although with 108K hard miles, it wasn't going to last a whole lot > longer anyway. I would suggest you will feel a difference between old > and new that may take away the sting of the bill. Thanks for the input Brett. I will certainly try and feel for a difference so that at least I can tell myself that the money was well spent. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2006 M Roadster 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 17:02:43 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E30> Motor bolts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I can't recall if I asked this or not but I would like to pull the M20 motor from the E30 this week. Anyone know what the bolts are that are needed for attaching to an engine stand? -Thanks, Kevin Hope you're all enjoying the 4th. ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 23:44:02 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: 318ti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC <[email protected]> Subject: WTB: TIS that cover e30 and e36 if possible Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am in the market for a TIS that will cover the e36 318ti and if possible the e30 models. Where is a good source and what can expect to pay. I have the microfilm version for my car, but try to find anything on my reader is a pain and it sometimes would be nice to print it out from a computer and take it into the shop. Thanks, David Ellsworth ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 23:51:22 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: 318ti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC <[email protected]> Subject: Anyone dealt with Auto-Mark for Hartge and Wiechers bars Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am kind of in the market, depends on price right now, for a rear spoiler for my 96 ti. I like the look of Hartge and ACSchnitzer and Ayto-Mark has the Hartge at what seems a good price. Just don't know what they deal like, any experiences. I a looking for something that might remove some of the rear lift while covering up a small hail dent in the lip of the hatch that can't be removed by paintless and too make my car a little sportier looking...I am hitting middle age and I can't afford a nice red convertable. Also, they sell Wiechers brace bars, any thoughts? thanks, David Ellsworth ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2006 07:42:54 -0400 From: John Grills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: 318ti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Anyone dealt with Auto-Mark for Hartge and Wiechers bars Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I got some great deals from Mark for my e30's. Great price in 16" staggered Hartge wheels for the M3 and F/R spoilers that I put on my Cabrio....I think they were close-out items. To my knowledge, Mark is the principle Hartge rep in NA. Cheers! John Grills BMWCCA-NCC On Jul 3, 2006, at 11:51 PM, Maverick wrote: > I am kind of in the market, depends on price right now, for a rear > spoiler for my 96 ti. I like the look of Hartge and ACSchnitzer > and Ayto-Mark has the Hartge at what seems a good price. Just > don't know what they deal like, any experiences. > > I a looking for something that might remove some of the rear lift > while covering up a small hail dent in the lip of the hatch that > can't be removed by paintless and too make my car a little sportier > looking...I am hitting middle age and I can't afford a nice red > convertible. > > Also, they sell Wiechers brace bars, any thoughts? > > thanks, > > David Ellsworth > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > [email protected] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2006 07:58:33 -0400 From: Matt Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Race Trailer For Sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Please reply to Steve at: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Matt Murray ********************************************************************** Selling my Haulmark Race Trailer. 24' box from front to back. This is the lowered deck model for easier loading/unloading. Swallows my CP Camaro with 12" wheels on all four corners with lots of room left up front. Includes: -Two custom tire racks on right side of trailer to maximize interior space. -Finished ceiling (white panels) with standard overhead lighting package. -TONS of shiny aluminum "PitPal" racks and shelves for fuel jugs, oil, chemicals, tie-down hanger, etc..., including fold down table unit on side door. -8' wide countertop at front, with two draw "vanity" sized cabinet in the center for storage. -Two Craftsman rolling toolboxes (each with worksurface on top) that slide under the countertop on either side of center unit. These lock in place for transport. -Four foot wide side door, (an option) wide enough to load golf-cart or ATV without unloading car. -Carpeted floor with diamondplate tire pads. -Four new/recent tires. -New set of heavy duty tie-downs. Will consider delivery in the Northeast or meet buyer part way. First $6000.00 or closest offer takes it. Wife's medical condition forces a quick sale. (Also have an RX-7 ITS roadrace car for sale too. More on that to follow.) Please respond directly, off list. Thanks Steve O. [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages) **********
