The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 3 : Issue 386 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: <E36> Schrick Aluminum Intake
  Re: <E36> Schrick Aluminum Intake
  dumb question for E38
  Re: dumb question for E38
  Re: dumb question for E38
  Re: dumb question for E38
  Re: dumb question for E38
  Re: dumb question for E38
  Re: dumb question for E38
  Re: dumb question for E38
  Phil Davis...great tech and new member..IN listers, good news
  Phil Davis...great tech and new member..IN listers, good news
  E39 xenon headlamps
  wheel bolt chart

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 09:27:17 -0800
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <E36> Schrick Aluminum Intake
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

In the world of unlimited $$ spending in BMW CCA DM the real set up is a
ported and polished shrick with a IIRC 75mm TB.  About $2Gs.  That set up
nets about 20hp over my set up of a 2935cc frankenmotor with big cams and
serious mods using a stock M50.  If my engine builder every finishes it
we're designing a new plenum and going to use a ford TB.  Projected cost
around $1G and the prototype should flow way better than a ported and
polished.  

Marco

-----Original Message-----
From: Chet Dawes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 7:00 AM
To: 'Marco Romani'; [email protected]
Subject: RE: [UUC] <E36> Schrick Aluminum Intake


While flow data is great, it does not always equal Hp.
I've personally used a Superflow flow bench with stock and ported
(ExtrudeHone in this case) intake/head/exhaust configurations.  Then gone
the second step and engine dyno tested the resulting parts.  Engine was a GM
V-6 with port fuel injection running on alcohol.

Results:
I measured more than a 15% improvement in flow on the flow bench for both
the complete intake/head as well as head/exhaust assemblies.  However when
installed on the engine and tested on the dyno the results equaled the same
power (SAE corrected data showed +/- 1hp for the entire curve).  

Either the flow restriction was elsewhere, the larger port resulted in a
decrease in velocity or the smoother port resulted in a decrease in
turbulence and thus fuel mixing/evaporating/cooling effects were negated.  I
don't know which, but in the end there were no gains.

I also don't know how this correlates to the discussion of the
M52/M50/Schrick intake manifolds but many folks have dyno proven numbers to
support the M50 manifold and it is a 'cheaper' option.  By the time you
purchase and modify a Schrick manifold.....you're into big bucks.  Not to
mention I'm a big fan of stock appearing engine bays and the M50 just looks
proper.

Cheers,
Chet Dawes
(M50 manifold came stock on my M3)

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marco Romani
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 6:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> Schrick Aluminum Intake

Flows worse than an M50, better than an M52.  BUT you can get it
ported/polished to where it flows better than a M50.

Marco

http://www.bmw-m.net/techdata/schrick.htm



-- 
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.22/666 - Release Date: 2/3/2007
3:31 PM



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 12:07:38 -0600
From: "Jon Siccardi - Treehouse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <E36> Schrick Aluminum Intake
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Here's an option we put together that is a little more affordable.

http://www.treehouseracing.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=5&category_id=2&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=31

or http://www.tiny.cc/LIrZH

if the first link is too long.


This kit redefines the term "big bore" throttle body


Jon

______________________________________________

Jon Siccardi - DM #053
#052- Retired
TreehouseRacing.com
M50conversion.com
615.333.9118
______________________________________________


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> Schrick Aluminum Intake


> In the world of unlimited $$ spending in BMW CCA DM the real set up is a
> ported and polished shrick with a IIRC 75mm TB.  About $2Gs.  That set up
> nets about 20hp over my set up of a 2935cc frankenmotor with big cams and
> serious mods using a stock M50.  If my engine builder every finishes it
> we're designing a new plenum and going to use a ford TB.  Projected cost
> around $1G and the prototype should flow way better than a ported and
> polished.
>
> Marco
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chet Dawes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 7:00 AM
> To: 'Marco Romani'; [email protected]
> Subject: RE: [UUC] <E36> Schrick Aluminum Intake
>
>
> While flow data is great, it does not always equal Hp.
> I've personally used a Superflow flow bench with stock and ported
> (ExtrudeHone in this case) intake/head/exhaust configurations.  Then gone
> the second step and engine dyno tested the resulting parts.  Engine was a 
> GM
> V-6 with port fuel injection running on alcohol.
>
> Results:
> I measured more than a 15% improvement in flow on the flow bench for both
> the complete intake/head as well as head/exhaust assemblies.  However when
> installed on the engine and tested on the dyno the results equaled the 
> same
> power (SAE corrected data showed +/- 1hp for the entire curve).
>
> Either the flow restriction was elsewhere, the larger port resulted in a
> decrease in velocity or the smoother port resulted in a decrease in
> turbulence and thus fuel mixing/evaporating/cooling effects were negated. 
> I
> don't know which, but in the end there were no gains.
>
> I also don't know how this correlates to the discussion of the
> M52/M50/Schrick intake manifolds but many folks have dyno proven numbers 
> to
> support the M50 manifold and it is a 'cheaper' option.  By the time you
> purchase and modify a Schrick manifold.....you're into big bucks.  Not to
> mention I'm a big fan of stock appearing engine bays and the M50 just 
> looks
> proper.
>
> Cheers,
> Chet Dawes
> (M50 manifold came stock on my M3)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marco Romani
> Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 6:49 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> Schrick Aluminum Intake
>
> Flows worse than an M50, better than an M52.  BUT you can get it
> ported/polished to where it flows better than a M50.
>
> Marco
>
> http://www.bmw-m.net/techdata/schrick.htm
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.22/666 - Release Date: 2/3/2007
> 3:31 PM
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com 


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 14:12:06 -0600
From: "Rich Jenkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bmwuucdigest" <[email protected]>
Subject: dumb question for E38
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

This may qualify as the bonehead question of the year...but...
How do I check/add water to an E38 (97 740i) battery?  While the owners
manual says it is maintenance free and "shouldn't need" service...it also
says to check electrolyte level and add distilled water as necessary.

The battery hasn't been holding a charge very well in the cold weather
lately so I think the level could be the culprit.

I've looked at the battery and tried to pry various creases but can't seem
to find a way to access it to check/add water.  I haven't disconnected
electrical leads to pull it out because I saw something about OB codes being
lost if I do so???

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Rich
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 14:30:56 -0600
From: "Rich Jenkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Vic Maslanka'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Bmwuucdigest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: dumb question for E38
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks for the quick reply!  There are some creases around what I thought
might be cover plates but they seem to be sealed at the sides.  I'm
encouraged by your note to pry a little harder!  Guess I don't have too much
to lose if I crack a seal since that would mean a new battery anyway.

-----Original Message-----
From: Vic Maslanka [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:24 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC] dumb question for E38

It all depends.  :-)

There are some maintenance free batteries in which you can pry off a 
rectangular plate on top to get to the cells.  There are usually two 
plates, each of which will cover three cells.  So if you can see two 
rectangles on top where the usual six caps would be, then you need to 
pry these open.

Other batteries are maintenance free and sealed.  You can't open 
these to get to the fluid.

Hope this helps.

Vic

At 03:12 PM 2/3/2007, you wrote:
>This may qualify as the bonehead question of the year...but...
>How do I check/add water to an E38 (97 740i) battery?  While the owners
>manual says it is maintenance free and "shouldn't need" service...it also
>says to check electrolyte level and add distilled water as necessary.
>
>The battery hasn't been holding a charge very well in the cold weather
>lately so I think the level could be the culprit.
>
>I've looked at the battery and tried to pry various creases but can't seem
>to find a way to access it to check/add water.  I haven't disconnected
>electrical leads to pull it out because I saw something about OB codes
being
>lost if I do so???
>
>Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks!
>Rich
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 14:35:50 -0600
From: "Rich Jenkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Jonathan Brush'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Bmwuucdigest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: dumb question for E38
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks, I peeled back the stickers but no plugs visible.  Gonna try and pry
off what 'could' be cover plates but if no luck, guess I am off to the shop
although even then, I'd rather duck the mech. fees & part markup and
order/install myself if possible.

Thanks again!
Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: Jonathan Brush [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:29 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC] dumb question for E38

Hi Rich,

I dunno about your E38 but my E39 battery (on the passenger side of
the trunk, behind a panel) has plastic stickers over the openings.
Hafta peel back the plastic to see the plugs, which are flush with the
top of the battery and not obvious like they are on most cars with
batteries in the engine compartment.

That said, if it's not holding a charge, why not have it tested at
your mechanic's? If it's the original it's overdue for R&R.

Jon

On 2/3/07, Rich Jenkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> This may qualify as the bonehead question of the year...but...
> How do I check/add water to an E38 (97 740i) battery?  While the owners
> manual says it is maintenance free and "shouldn't need" service...it also
> says to check electrolyte level and add distilled water as necessary.
>
> The battery hasn't been holding a charge very well in the cold weather
> lately so I think the level could be the culprit.
>
> I've looked at the battery and tried to pry various creases but can't seem
> to find a way to access it to check/add water.  I haven't disconnected
> electrical leads to pull it out because I saw something about OB codes
being
> lost if I do so???
>
> Any help is greatly appreciated!
>
> Thanks!
> Rich
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 15:59:35 -0600
From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: dumb question for E38
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Batteries are cheap. You don't need to go to a shop to get one. Take your
battery out, go to your local parts store (Autozone, Advanced Auto,
O'Reilly...whatever). Get a new battery and put it in yourself. Price for
your battery should be between $40 and $80. Bring your old battery with
you...you get about $10 for it, and you don't' have to worry about getting
rid of it. 

Alex 

> Thanks, I peeled back the stickers but no plugs visible.  
> Gonna try and pry off what 'could' be cover plates but if no 
> luck, guess I am off to the shop although even then, I'd 
> rather duck the mech. fees & part markup and order/install 
> myself if possible.
> 
> Thanks again!
> Rich



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 15:41:16 -0600
From: "Rich Jenkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Martin Bullen'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "'BMW Digest'" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: dumb question for E38
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

AutoZone says they don't carry one nor did Sears, Interstate, or BatteryPlus
online inquiries find one.  Making voice calls now.other sources
recommended?

________________________________________
From: Martin Bullen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 3:10 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: BMW Digest
Subject: Re: [UUC] dumb question for E38

The stock size battery (group 93?) is often not readily available anywhere
other than the dealer. However, others report good luck and much reduced
cost by installing a Group 49 battery, which should fit using an original
built-in but alternative hold-down mounting point.

See www.e38.org for more information.

Martin Bullen
'95 M3 
'97 Z3 2.8
'01 740i Sport

On Feb 3, 2007, at 4:59 PM, Alex Cagann wrote:


Batteries are cheap. You don't need to go to a shop to get one. Take your
battery out, go to your local parts store (Autozone, Advanced Auto,
O'Reilly...whatever). Get a new battery and put it in yourself. Price for
your battery should be between $40 and $80. Bring your old battery with
you...you get about $10 for it, and you don't' have to worry about getting
rid of it. 

Alex 

Thanks, I peeled back the stickers but no plugs visible. 
Gonna try and pry off what 'could' be cover plates but if no 
luck, guess I am off to the shop although even then, I'd 
rather duck the mech. fees & part markup and order/install 
myself if possible.

Thanks again!
Rich


Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 18:35:26 -0500
From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: dumb question for E38
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

You didn't say, but from your post I assume you have a V8, not V12 (which
requires two batteries and I assume different rating).

I've had great luck with an Interstate MTP-93.  It has 850CCA, which is 50
shy of the factory 900 IIRC.  I've had it in my 740 for over a year, no
problems.  It is the correct length, so no adapters needed.

There should be no shortage of Interstate battery retailers in your area.
My town (fairly small) has at least 4 I can think of off the top of my head.
If they don't have one, they should be able to get one within a day or two.

Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Jenkins
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 4:41 PM
To: 'Martin Bullen'
Cc: 'BMW Digest'
Subject: Re: [UUC] dumb question for E38

AutoZone says they don't carry one nor did Sears, Interstate, or BatteryPlus
online inquiries find one.  Making voice calls now.other sources
recommended?

________________________________________
From: Martin Bullen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 3:10 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: BMW Digest
Subject: Re: [UUC] dumb question for E38

The stock size battery (group 93?) is often not readily available anywhere
other than the dealer. However, others report good luck and much reduced
cost by installing a Group 49 battery, which should fit using an original
built-in but alternative hold-down mounting point.

See www.e38.org for more information.

Martin Bullen
'95 M3 
'97 Z3 2.8
'01 740i Sport

On Feb 3, 2007, at 4:59 PM, Alex Cagann wrote:


Batteries are cheap. You don't need to go to a shop to get one. Take your
battery out, go to your local parts store (Autozone, Advanced Auto,
O'Reilly...whatever). Get a new battery and put it in yourself. Price for
your battery should be between $40 and $80. Bring your old battery with
you...you get about $10 for it, and you don't' have to worry about getting
rid of it. 

Alex 

Thanks, I peeled back the stickers but no plugs visible. 
Gonna try and pry off what 'could' be cover plates but if no 
luck, guess I am off to the shop although even then, I'd 
rather duck the mech. fees & part markup and order/install 
myself if possible.

Thanks again!
Rich


Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 15:44:47 -0800
From: Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: dumb question for E38
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On 2/3/07, Andy Messer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You didn't say, but from your post I assume you have a V8, not V12 (which
> requires two batteries and I assume different rating).

He said it was a 97 740i.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 14:59:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Phil Davis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: dumb question for E38
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Never learn anything if you don't ask. I have had good luck with Batteries Plus 
+ they sell Werker brand - just got 1 for a Volvo which can also be hard to 
find - $80 6 yr warranty 1 yr free replacement. A group 95 or 49 should fit 
your car and the previous post about relocating the the hold down is needed in 
some applications.

Phil


 
____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business?
Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 16:23:02 -0600
From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Phil Davis...great tech and new member..IN listers, good news
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

If you live in Indy, you either know Phil, have heard of him, or you NEED to
know him. I am a youngin..at 33 years of age, and I remember visiting
Autohouse on Keystone when I was riding a bike...a euro only
dealership/service center that Phil owned for years (I used to salivate over
the one off BMW's, the rare Ferrari here and there, his 700hp M6, etc, etc).
I have seen him here and there over the years, and I was very pleased to see
a post from him on this list the other day. I hadn't heard from him in a
while and after seeing him on this list, contacted him. Well, he left my
house earlier today and fixed a 99 540i I had with a few problems (picked up
the parts yesterday evening, drove 45 minutes to my house today, and
repaired the car in less than 2hours), and I have a few other Bavarian
pieces for him to do some magic to.  He is doing freelance tech work for
people at the moment, so if you live in Indy, make sure and remember his
name...he knows more than most people forget about BMW's, Benz, Audi, and
just about anything else...his favorite and what he knows best is BMW. I
highly recommend. 

Alex 



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 14:37:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Phil Davis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Phil Davis...great tech and new member..IN listers, good news
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks Alex

Phil


 
____________________________________________________________________________________
Cheap talk?
Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
http://voice.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 21:24:54 -0600
From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: E39 xenon headlamps
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

My 99 5 series has self leveling xenon's and one of them is out. Any
recommendations on how to go about testing what is messed up...if I'm not
mistaken, there is a power module before the actual headlight unit...do you
have to replace everything?

Alex Cagann



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2007 00:22:19 -0500
From: neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: BMW Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
        BMW-Mini-Cooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
        UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: wheel bolt chart
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

One of my friends sent this to me, and I thought I'd pass it along. It 
has some very useful info for those looking to swap, change or upgrade 
their wheels. I haven't checked any of the facts or figures for 
accuracy, so use at your own risk.

http://www.willysoffroadsupply.com/Wheel_Spacer_Chart.html?sid=6ccf0a8a25d09ee6a4c59a9de1717b28

Neil

-- 
Get 20% Off CoffeeCup Web Design Software 
Use this code when you checkout: 226STS 
-------------------- 
www.getcoffeecup.com


------------------------------

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