The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 473 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [bmw] re: M50 runs rough under load - SOLVED 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Re: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Re: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Re: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Re: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Re: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange E34 - Diagnosing front end issues - continued Re: E34 - Diagnosing front end issues - continued Re: E34 - Diagnosing front end issues - continued Re: E34 - Diagnosing front end issues - continued Re: E34 - Diagnosing front end issues - continued Need Referral Days Passed
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 3 May 2007 22:29:55 -0400 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [bmw] re: M50 runs rough under load - SOLVED Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well, to those who suggested a coil, my hat goes off to you. I was reluctant to dive into that one because I couldn't make sense of the behavior as it might relate to a bad coil, but the cost was low and it was an easy task so I decided it was time to try. I started swapping coils this morning. Every time I'd get in the car to go somewhere I'd move the new coil to a different cylinder. On the 4th try the engine problems cleared up. Karl Zemlin Indy -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Karl Zemlin Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 10:52 PM To: 'Chris Pawlowicz' Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [bmw] re: M50 runs rough under load The stomp test always comes up empty. Coils have been mentioned before, but I can't make sense of that with it changing dramatically and suddenly when the speed passes 2500 RPM and also with it being so inconsistent. The valve cover gaskets have been replaced recently, so there's no oil in the plug holes. I did have one coil boot get cooked pretty good in oil - have thought about replacing that one just 'cuz. I have checked for leaks before, but it's possible I missed one - that shouldn't be temperature dependent though. The engine always runs fine when cold. Good thoughts - thanks! -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris Pawlowicz Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 10:31 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [bmw] re: M50 runs rough under load Karl says > It isn't consistent - sometimes it runs real bad - other (rarely) the > car runs great. > > Since it never happens cold, it is possible this is O2 sensor-related? > The sensor was replaced in '03, and the car has had this problem for > well over a year. > > I thought it was better for a while with fresh plugs, but that didn't > last long. O2 sensor doesn't generally make things run rough like that- it can fail completely (throw check engine light, ECU goes to default (rich) programming), or gradually degrade, but while gas mileage and performance may suffer slightly and emissions go wrong, it won't run rough. A faulty ignition coil (very common on M50 motors) could very well be the cause.. a lot of the early ones just go bad, but sometimes an oil seepage can lead to pooling and shorting. Check it out. Have you read your engine codes to see if anything has tripped? I think the E34 had a 'pump the gas pedal' way of reading codes.. http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Engine_codes.htm What about air leaks? cracks in the rubber bellows, loose hose clamps etc. Chris Pawlowicz '89 325iT '99 Z3 2.8 -- to be removed from bmw, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi or email "unsubscribe bmw" to [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- to be removed from bmw, see http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi or email "unsubscribe bmw" to [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2007 19:31:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Got all parts. However I'm little confused about flange assembly. There was no #4 on my car http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE53&mospid=47588&btnr=23_0220&hg=23&fg=15 I had flange nut covered in loctite. I don't think it was disassembled before, but wondering why there is no locking plate? I bought this locking plate and it seems that I can drive it into flange but curious if it's needed since there was none? Bentley shows how to install flange and locking plate saying nothing about loctite. Also, on a picture in bentley flange illustrated with notches(to remove plate) and I don't have those notches on my flange. In a plastic bag with output seal I got instruction on how to apply 2 loctites to output flange nut. Loctite 243 to threads and Loctite 518 to nut face (gasket maker) So, what is the correct procedure to assemble this? Should I just install nut with loctites as illustrated? Thanks, Ivan ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2007 08:58:06 -0400 From: johngrills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, bmwuucdigest list <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ivan, You had better put a #4 back in there, would be my suggestion. There was previous discussion about sealing the splines with some Curil2, right? With 170, then 150 lbs of torque on that nut, I'm not sure Locktite (270 I'm guessing?) actually does anything for you....the lockplate however, will, as it's a mechanical stop. cheers! John Grills NCC-BMWCCA Ivan Demkovitch wrote: > Got all parts. However I'm little confused about flange assembly. There was > no #4 on my car > http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE53&mospid=47588&btnr=23_0220&hg=23&fg=15 > > I had flange nut covered in loctite. I don't think it was disassembled > before, but wondering why there is no locking plate? > I bought this locking plate and it seems that I can drive it into flange but > curious if it's needed since there was none? > > Bentley shows how to install flange and locking plate saying nothing about > loctite. Also, on a picture in bentley flange illustrated with notches(to > remove plate) and I don't have those notches on my flange. > In a plastic bag with output seal I got instruction on how to apply 2 > loctites to output flange nut. > Loctite 243 to threads and Loctite 518 to nut face (gasket maker) > > So, what is the correct procedure to assemble this? Should I just install nut > with loctites as illustrated? > > Thanks, > Ivan > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2007 06:16:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: johngrills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, bmwuucdigest list <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> No, it says to use Loctite 243 on threads (this is threadlocker and I have it in my toolbox) And it says to use Loctite 518 on nut face. This is liquid gasket for flanges, etc. I had something applied to old nut which looks like epoxy or something. Like I mentioned - there is no nothches on a flange. I can get lock plate there but it will hold only by tension. ----- Original Message ---- From: johngrills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; bmwuucdigest list <[email protected]> Sent: Friday, May 4, 2007 7:58:06 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Ivan, You had better put a #4 back in there, would be my suggestion. There was previous discussion about sealing the splines with some Curil2, right? With 170, then 150 lbs of torque on that nut, I'm not sure Locktite (270 I'm guessing?) actually does anything for you....the lockplate however, will, as it's a mechanical stop. cheers! John Grills NCC-BMWCCA Ivan Demkovitch wrote: > Got all parts. However I'm little confused about flange assembly. There was > no #4 on my car > http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE53&mospid=47588&btnr=23_0220&hg=23&fg=15 > > I had flange nut covered in loctite. I don't think it was disassembled > before, but wondering why there is no locking plate? > I bought this locking plate and it seems that I can drive it into flange but > curious if it's needed since there was none? > > Bentley shows how to install flange and locking plate saying nothing about > loctite. Also, on a picture in bentley flange illustrated with notches(to > remove plate) and I don't have those notches on my flange. > In a plastic bag with output seal I got instruction on how to apply 2 > loctites to output flange nut. > Loctite 243 to threads and Loctite 518 to nut face (gasket maker) > > So, what is the correct procedure to assemble this? Should I just install nut > with loctites as illustrated? > > Thanks, > Ivan > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2007 09:15:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: johngrills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest list <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I got new nut, but it doesn't seem to be self-locking. It seems that threadlock held for 170k miles. Should do little more then :) It says to tighten up to 200Nm and then retorque to 120Nm after loosening. ----- Original Message ---- From: johngrills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest list <[email protected]> Sent: Friday, May 4, 2007 10:50:54 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Oh, sorry. I missed the -no notches- in the flange piece. Not an expert on your model. Every 3'r I've wrenched has had a notched flange and a lock plate. Heck, sounds like you've sealed it well. I just have reservations about relying solely on threadlock on such a large critical fastener. Am I just paranoid? Is the nut a self-locking nut? Ivan Demkovitch wrote: > Like I mentioned - there is no nothches on a flange. I can get lock plate > there but it will hold only by tension. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2007 11:50:54 -0400 From: johngrills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Ivan Demkovitch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: bmwuucdigest list <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Oh, sorry. I missed the -no notches- in the flange piece. Not an expert on your model. Every 3'r I've wrenched has had a notched flange and a lock plate. Heck, sounds like you've sealed it well. I just have reservations about relying solely on threadlock on such a large critical fastener. Am I just paranoid? Is the nut a self-locking nut? Ivan Demkovitch wrote: > Like I mentioned - there is no nothches on a flange. I can get lock plate > there but it will hold only by tension. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2007 13:10:46 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Ivan Demkovitch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "bmwuucdigest list" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 97 540 6-spd trans output flange Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Do it, then, you will be OK. Gary Derian >I got new nut, but it doesn't seem to be self-locking. It seems that >threadlock held for 170k miles. Should do little more then :) > It says to tighten up to 200Nm and then retorque to 120Nm after loosening. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2007 07:19:14 -0400 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]>, "Bmw Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E34 - Diagnosing front end issues - continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So I found loose ball joints on the upper control arms and a loose sway bar link. The upper control arms came from BavAuto about 70,000 miles ago, and if this play is a significant contributor to my shimmy issue, they've been bad for a long time. I paid an extra $100 for their arms with the green-core bushings so I wouldn't have to replace them for a very long time, but that didn't pan out. Did I get crappy arms from them? Do harder bushings shorten the life of the ball joints? Am I asking too much to want significant chunks of steel to last 100,000 miles? This is a daily driver - will not see any track time (unfortunately) - what combination of bits will get me the best longevity when I replace the control arms this time? Karl Zemlin '94 525i touring - just about have this thing back in shape. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Karl Zemlin Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 7:19 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] E34 - Diagnosing front end issues? My '94 525 touring has issues - now running at 172,000 miles. I replaced upper control arms with supposedly upgraded bushings around 100,000 miles. I've had a bad shimmy under braking for some time now - not really an issue below 50MPH, but I sometimes feel pulsing at lower speeds. I also get a quiet clunk sometimes when going over bumps at low speed - I can get it sometimes when tapping the brakes. I think I have warped rotor or two contributing to the shimmy - the amplitude varies a lot - sometimes braking is fine - other times the whole car shakes and there's some good clunking coming from the front end. I need to climb around under there and look for bad parts, but my past attempts to find bad things on E28s and earlier on this car have generally been inconclusive. Is there a good primer written up somewhere on how to identify front end issues? I recently had my daughter in the car - wheels on the ground - turning the wheel from side to side while I put my hands on all the connection points looking for something with play. I couldn't feel anything. I am a mechanical engineer and machinist with a good feel for such things, so it isn't that I'm clueless in general - just about BMW suspensions. Also, how much runnout is too much on a brake rotor. I can put a dial indicator on them, but I don't know what I'm looking for. Karl Zemlin '94 525i touring (Shake it, Baby, shake it!) Indianapolis Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2007 08:14:44 -0400 From: "Fuerst Chris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E34 - Diagnosing front end issues - continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yes, IMHO. The steel is not the part wearing out. I thought you could order bushings separately? 1st -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Karl Zemlin Am I asking too much to want significant chunks of steel to last 100,000 miles? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2007 09:15:36 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected], Fuerst Chris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: E34 - Diagnosing front end issues - continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There is play in the ball joints - no question. The bushings actually look OK. Quoting Fuerst Chris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > Yes, IMHO. The steel is not the part wearing out. > I thought you could order bushings separately? > > > 1st > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Karl Zemlin > > Am I asking too much to want significant chunks of steel to last > 100,000 miles? > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2007 08:19:46 -0400 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E34 - Diagnosing front end issues - continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You were probably sold cheap junk Ocap or Meyle brand arms. I'm surprised you got the mileage you did. Get genuine Lemforder arms and bushings. Use the E34 M5 bushings and buy them from the dealer, because all the aftermarket companies substitute all E34/E32 bushings to the same part, which is not M5. M5 bushings do NOT have the plastic centre sections that all the others have. Brett Anderson KMS Karl Zemlin wrote: > So I found loose ball joints on the upper control arms and a loose sway bar > link. The upper control arms came from BavAuto about 70,000 miles ago, and > if this play is a significant contributor to my shimmy issue, they've been > bad for a long time. I paid an extra $100 for their arms with the > green-core bushings so I wouldn't have to replace them for a very long time, > but that didn't pan out. > > Did I get crappy arms from them? Do harder bushings shorten the life of the > ball joints? Am I asking too much to want significant chunks of steel to > last 100,000 miles? > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2007 09:01:21 -0400 From: johngrills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E34 - Diagnosing front end issues - continued Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As Brett always reminds us Meyle==bad parts just one of those truths... r/jpg KMS- Brett Anderson wrote: > You were probably sold cheap junk Ocap or Meyle brand arms. I'm > surprised you got the mileage you did. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2007 06:43:24 -0500 From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Need Referral Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sorry to use the list this way, but I need help. I am getting scammed by a NY firm which is bouncing checks and not paying in general, and need a local lawyer to make a call, or send a letter. Anyone out there a NY attorney that can help, on the cheap? Jenny Morgan Starving in Milwaukee ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2007 13:53:20 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Days Passed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reminds me of some of old Horndog Duane's pictures from what seems like a long time ago. Speaking of which, how's the duangereous doing? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/324327264.html -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. 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