The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 580 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E36 compression numbers Re: E36 compression numbers E46 Dust Shield Re: E46 Dust Shield Re: E46 Dust Shield Re: E46 Dust Shield Re: Sight unseen Re: Sight unseen <E36> Engine Durability?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:23:26 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 compression numbers Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The most significant info from a compression test are the relative readings, cylinder to cylinder. I'd like to know hou your friend knew the old muffer was restrictive and the new one is not. Did he measure the pressure? How does running with a blocked exhaust cause carbon buildup? Inquiring minds want to know. Gary Derian > hi gruppe...a friend of mine recently picked up a 93 325is...he discovered > that the exhaust had a restriction, as one of the "pipes inside the > muffler" (his words) had rusted...he changed it out to a E36 M3 factory > exhaust, and said it flows much better now... > > he did a compression test for fun, and he said the numbers were s between > 200 and 210...he though it was pretty high for a 93, but it has only 60k > on the clock...he was thinking maybe the previous owner was running it > with the blocked exhaust for a while, and so it may have led to some > carbon buildup, resulting in the high numbers... > > anyone know what the numbers should read?!? any help/opinions greatly > appreciated...thanx in advance... > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 08:14:22 -1000 From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E36 compression numbers Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> hi gary...all he told me was the numbers were all pretty close, between 200 and 210...he said the car felt sluggish, so he had the car running and was checking it out, when he walked by the back of it, and he didnt feel much exhaust pressure...he said he looked into the tail pipes and saw a part "of the smaller pipe rusted and fell down, and was blocking the exhaust." he said he got an exhaust from an M3, and put that on, and the airflow at idle was much higher... as for how it builds up carbon- i have no idea, but that was his theory...:D Gary Derian wrote: > The most significant info from a compression test are the relative > readings, cylinder to cylinder. I'd like to know hou your friend knew > the old muffer was restrictive and the new one is not. Did he measure > the pressure? How does running with a blocked exhaust cause carbon > buildup? Inquiring minds want to know. > Gary Derian > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 12:50:32 -0400 From: "Jason Kay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: E46 Dust Shield Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Last night I had to go rescue my wife b/c her 325xi started making really loud noises... So I drove over to where she parked and had her start the car (sounded fine) and roll foward (sounded like metal-metal contact, but THIN metal.) Long story, short, I bent the shield out of the way, and no more noise... BUT, my question for collective wisdom is this: What caused the shield to rub? My wife said she heard a rock in the tire noise (ticking), no bangs, and it didn't make this noise when she stopped... All comments, questions, and snarky remarks are welcome. TIA! -Jason '86 951 "Sparky" '70 240Z "Dusty" '03 325xi "Daisy" '06 Mini CooperS "George" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:14:19 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E46 Dust Shield Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Something bent it. Gary Derian > > BUT, my question for collective wisdom is this: > What caused the shield to rub? > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 16:09:21 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E46 Dust Shield Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Mon, Sep 24, 2007 at 01:14:19PM -0400, Gary Derian wrote: > Something bent it. > Gary Derian > > > > >BUT, my question for collective wisdom is this: > >What caused the shield to rub? Holy moly Gary, where would we be without your no-nonsense analyses? You hit this one right on the nose, as usual. :-) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:50:57 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E46 Dust Shield Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 09:50 AM 9/24/2007, Jason Kay wrote: Perhaps you can elaborate on what dust shield you're referring to. >Last night I had to go rescue my wife b/c her 325xi started making >really loud noises... > >So I drove over to where she parked and had her start the car >(sounded fine) and roll foward (sounded like metal-metal contact, >but THIN metal.) > >Long story, short, I bent the shield out of the way, and no more noise... > >BUT, my question for collective wisdom is this: >What caused the shield to rub? > >My wife said she heard a rock in the tire noise (ticking), no bangs, >and it didn't make this noise when she stopped... > >All comments, questions, and snarky remarks are welcome. >TIA! > >-Jason >'86 951 "Sparky" >'70 240Z "Dusty" >'03 325xi "Daisy" >'06 Mini CooperS "George" > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 22:32:59 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Sight unseen Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Chris, I'm a multiple-E30 guy, and I have done work on them myself. Though, I would not proclaim myself to be any sort of expert. Depending on where the car is in NH, I could perhaps take a look and at least give you my impression (probably not til next week). Otherwise, Concord Motorsport is an excellent recomendation. Two other options are Vintage Sports Racing (in Bow, again, near Concord) and 3D Autoworks, in Hudson, which is in the Nashua area. Transportation will be an issue. And if you are risk averse, so will transfer of ownership. I'm not really sure how you can reasonably close the deal without meeting up with the seller, and probably the car. Some states allow you to obtain an instant temporary registration. Other states require you to bring in the title first (or bill of sale if title is not required due to age). When I have bought cars, I have usually picked them up with a truck and trailer, or had the seller deliver the car. IF you can get the seller to go along (harder and harder in these litigious days), you drive the car home on his plate and mail the plate back. Practically the risk is tiny, technically, sellers tend to freak about it. I think you are going to spend at least as much time screwing around trying to find a way to avoid a trip to NH as opposed to just making the trek. Alternatively, if you want the RIGHT car regardless of cost, you pay the seller to deliver it, with the option of rejecting it (obviously, you still pay him something for his time). Finally, not to be rude, but if those are not options, you simply aren't really in the market for an old E30, other than one that happens to be nearby. Stan > Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 00:50:37 +0000 (UTC) > From: "Christopher Anrig" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Thanks all for the advice, really helpful. If you're interested, it's actually a 91 E30 325is. It "appears" to be a really nice example. Rust free, low mileage, nice paint, clean interior, mechanically sound, it's being represented to be in good to excellent condition by the seller. Mostly stock, the seller made some appropriate upgrades to the suspension and added a JC chip. It's hard to gauge the seller. He sounds like a young enthusiast who bought it from the original owner a couple of years ago. By report, the original owner was a more senior enthusiast who personally maintained the car. He admittedly emailed pictures taken when he bought the car and agreed to take some current pics and send them (although I am yet to see them). He appears to be describiing the car fairly, and he openly described some flaws in the car. He's agreed to have the car inspected and to split the cost, although it will be done by a shop he has recommended. I've checked the Carfax. It's not a h! > uge investment...yet, but I tend to be fairly risk averse. I would love to make the trip up to see it in vivo, but it just can't happen right now. > > Again, thanks for all the suggestions. > Best, > Chris ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 07:23:46 -0400 From: "Matt Bader" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Stan Jackson Jr.'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Sight unseen Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I purchased my M3 from a guy out of state but he was close enough that we could meet face to face, and eyeball the car, etc. The complicating factor in my case was that the car was tagged in PA, but I had to get it registered in Delaware. So, I took possession of the car (and title) with the PA plate still on the car pending transfer of registration. As luck would have it, the car wouldn't initially pass Delaware inspection because the horn was only working intermittently (a story in itself as to what it took to get it fixed). So, the seller was a little stressed because it took me longer to return his vanity PA plate than he was hoping for. I couldn't (wouldn't) return the plate until I could get a Delaware plate, so I had to make him wait until I could get the horn issue resolved, which took about a month. Until I got the horn fixed, I just stuck my head out the window and yelled at other drivers. Wasn't as effective as I had hoped. :-) Matt Bader 98 M3/4 New BMWCCA Member -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Stan Jackson Jr. Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 10:33 PM To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Sight unseen Chris, I'm a multiple-E30 guy, and I have done work on them myself. Though, I would not proclaim myself to be any sort of expert. Depending on where the car is in NH, I could perhaps take a look and at least give you my impression (probably not til next week). Otherwise, Concord Motorsport is an excellent recomendation. Two other options are Vintage Sports Racing (in Bow, again, near Concord) and 3D Autoworks, in Hudson, which is in the Nashua area. Transportation will be an issue. And if you are risk averse, so will transfer of ownership. I'm not really sure how you can reasonably close the deal without meeting up with the seller, and probably the car. Some states allow you to obtain an instant temporary registration. Other states require you to bring in the title first (or bill of sale if title is not required due to age). When I have bought cars, I have usually picked them up with a truck and trailer, or had the seller deliver the car. IF you can get the seller to go along (harder and harder in these litigious days), you drive the car home on his plate and mail the plate back. Practically the risk is tiny, technically, sellers tend to freak about it. I think you are going to spend at least as much time screwing around trying to find a way to avoid a trip to NH as opposed to just making the trek. Alternatively, if you want the RIGHT car regardless of cost, you pay the seller to deliver it, with the option of rejecting it (obviously, you still pay him something for his time). Finally, not to be rude, but if those are not options, you simply aren't really in the market for an old E30, other than one that happens to be nearby. Stan > Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 00:50:37 +0000 (UTC) > From: "Christopher Anrig" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Thanks all for the advice, really helpful. If you're interested, it's actually a 91 E30 325is. It "appears" to be a really nice example. Rust free, low mileage, nice paint, clean interior, mechanically sound, it's being represented to be in good to excellent condition by the seller. Mostly stock, the seller made some appropriate upgrades to the suspension and added a JC chip. It's hard to gauge the seller. He sounds like a young enthusiast who bought it from the original owner a couple of years ago. By report, the original owner was a more senior enthusiast who personally maintained the car. He admittedly emailed pictures taken when he bought the car and agreed to take some current pics and send them (although I am yet to see them). He appears to be describiing the car fairly, and he openly described some flaws in the car. He's agreed to have the car inspected and to split the cost, although it will be done by a shop he has recommended. I've checked the Carfax. It's not a h! > uge investment...yet, but I tend to be fairly risk averse. I would love to make the trip up to see it in vivo, but it just can't happen right now. > > Again, thanks for all the suggestions. > Best, > Chris Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 13:12:25 +0000 (UTC) From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Engine Durability? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As I mentione before, I'm shopping for a used E36 for my father in- law. There seem to be enough local specimens in the $5k-$7k range on cars.com, that I can find something. I'm wondering about whether to get him a 318i or a 325i/328i. He doesn't need the power, and the fuel economy would be better with the 318. OTOH, I know from personal experience (My 325i, RIP) that the M50 is a bomb proof motor that will take him to 200k+. Any comments on the M42 and its durability? I know the earlier models had profile gasket problems, but I'd be looking at one of the later models (~1996). TIA, Marc Plante E36 M3/4 80k Vienna, VA ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(9 messages) **********
