The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 634 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Real wheel question Re: <E36> rear bearings <E36> Front control arm bushings Re: <E36> Front control arm bushings Re: <E36> Front control arm bushings Re: <E36> Front control arm bushings <E36> chirp at idle?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2007 21:35:53 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Maverick'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Real wheel question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> How about these? http://www.corsa-na.com/wheels.html The ssrs are gone but the BMW are still available. ;-) Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Maverick Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 9:23 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] Real wheel question Just want to say I am in the market for some 17" rims for my 96 318ti and would like as light as my budget allows, but must be strong and durable with all the potholes and such around here. David in Richmond, VA -----Original Message----- >From: Rob Levinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Dec 8, 2007 12:24 PM >To: [email protected] >Subject: Re: [UUC] Real wheel question > >The weight goes up much more with the larger sizes. > >Besides, comparing to OE E36 wheels is not doing yourself any favors... >cast E36/E46 wheels are already surprisingly heavy. Good aftermarket >17" wheels are around 17lbs./7.71kg. That's 5lbs. Less than OE. > >- Rob > >-----Original Message----- >From: "Bill Proud" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Real wheel question > >Unto which I respond in kindly manner ........if you compare 'apples to apples ' in terms of like sized wheels on the German wheel-page here http://felgenkatalog.auto-treff.com/ then my original thesis stands as proven . >Look up Styling 57 from the E53 SAV X5 ....in 17 x 7 1/2 size , with ET >40mm they nominally weigh 10.13 KG > >Now look up Styling 23 , which is the M-contour wheel from the E36M3 >......in 17x 7 1/2 ET 41 mm they weigh ...10.13 KG !!!!! > >The Styling 22 from the early E36M3 weighs 9.68 KG .....so it's about >ONE pound lighter ... > >Which , as we used to say in Maths class , is somewhat QED , (Quod Erat >Demonstrandum ) > >So, an X5 17" wheel will work on an E36 ...... > >Beepee > >Search the >ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >_______________________________________________________________________ >___ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . >http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1177 - Release Date: 12/7/2007 1:11 PM ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 19:14:44 +0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] (UUC Digest) Subject: Re: <E36> rear bearings Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm not saying it is safe or wise, but I had a bad rear wheel bearing on my '90 325i and I drove on it for a couple thousand miles before I figured out it was bad. (A front bearing went bad at the same time and I couldn't tell where the noise was coming from. Once I replaced the front bearing, it became obvious that the rear bearing was also bad.) So take that only as a point of reference, not an endorsement that you can drive on the bad bearing for any length of time. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2007 16:00:19 -0600 (CST) >From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [email protected] >Subject: <E36> rear bearings >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >One might infer from my earlier post that I have a bad wheel bearing (LR). >Grinds pretty badly. Somebody please tell me I can drive on this for awhile >(I believe I've been hearing this for the last few weeks, got her up in the >air this afternoon to examine, it's the bearing, and it's pretty shot). How >risky is it to keep driving on this? > >- Kevin Jay > '96 328is, red/tan, 104K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too > '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 67K, bone stock ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 17:11:51 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Front control arm bushings Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Regarding replacing the front control arms on the E36, I have the following questions: 1. What's the best technique for removing the inner joint? Note: I have the various ball joint removal tools. 2. Why is the bushing a press fit. Doesn't the control arm just rotate in the bushing? If it needs preload, we will use the existing bushing to determine placement on the new control arms. Do you then need to raise the wheel hub assembly before tightening the lolly-pop bolts? 3. What's the order of re-assembly that makes the job easiest? Eg. Inner ball joint first, outer then bushing, or inner then bushing then outer..... etc. 4. We'll be using the offset bushings so that the caster on the E36 will change. Does this also dictate a need for alignment after installing the new Control Arms? Note the new control arms have the new Meyle outer joints already pressed in. Thanks, Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 20:30:31 -0600 From: "Paul Garnier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> Front control arm bushings Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 1. What's the best technique for removing the inner joint? Note: I have the various ball joint removal tools. After loosening the locknut/nylock, give the subframe surrounding the conical shaft of the balljoint a "good whack" with your favorite large hammer. (major points off for using a claw hammer) 2. Why is the bushing a press fit. Doesn't the control arm just rotate in the bushing? If it needs preload, we will use the existing bushing to determine placement on the new control arms. Do you then need to raise the wheel hub assembly before tightening the lolly-pop bolts? Because it's tight hard rubber to eliminate vibration and rattles. The control arm does not rotate in the bushing once the soapy water, you used to mount it, dries. No preload is needed (AFAIK). The recommended procedure is to tighten in the at rest position and not full droop. If the bushing was lubed then I don't understand the need for this. 3. What's the order of re-assembly that makes the job easiest? Eg. Inner ball joint first, outer then bushing, or inner then bushing then outer..... etc. Put the lollipop on the ctrl arm them bolt it all together... 4. We'll be using the offset bushings so that the caster on the E36 will change. Does this also dictate a need for alignment after installing the new Control Arms? ALWAYS align after a ctrl arm/CAB change. Paul Garnier FastNetworking.com 281.827.0725 -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 7:12 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] <E36> Front control arm bushings Regarding replacing the front control arms on the E36, I have the following questions: 1. What's the best technique for removing the inner joint? Note: I have the various ball joint removal tools. 2. Why is the bushing a press fit. Doesn't the control arm just rotate in the bushing? If it needs preload, we will use the existing bushing to determine placement on the new control arms. Do you then need to raise the wheel hub assembly before tightening the lolly-pop bolts? 3. What's the order of re-assembly that makes the job easiest? Eg. Inner ball joint first, outer then bushing, or inner then bushing then outer..... etc. 4. We'll be using the offset bushings so that the caster on the E36 will change. Does this also dictate a need for alignment after installing the new Control Arms? Note the new control arms have the new Meyle outer joints already pressed in. Thanks, Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 21:46:25 -0500 From: "marshall lytle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Paul Garnier'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> Front control arm bushings Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 1. sometimes the "good whack" technique works, sometimes it doesn't. Then you breakout the big pickle fork and a bigger hammer. If that doesn't work, it it time to drop the subframe and whack the top of the stud with an even bigger hammer. (my subframe is coming off in a couple days to do this on the race car) 2. do the bushing last. The soap needs to dry when the car is sitting at normal ride height. 3. should put control arm on car first. Lollipop with bushing is the last part to put on. (see 2) 4. yup. Always do an alignment after you change anything on the suspension. Marshall -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Garnier Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:31 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> Front control arm bushings 1. What's the best technique for removing the inner joint? Note: I have the various ball joint removal tools. After loosening the locknut/nylock, give the subframe surrounding the conical shaft of the balljoint a "good whack" with your favorite large hammer. (major points off for using a claw hammer) 2. Why is the bushing a press fit. Doesn't the control arm just rotate in the bushing? If it needs preload, we will use the existing bushing to determine placement on the new control arms. Do you then need to raise the wheel hub assembly before tightening the lolly-pop bolts? Because it's tight hard rubber to eliminate vibration and rattles. The control arm does not rotate in the bushing once the soapy water, you used to mount it, dries. No preload is needed (AFAIK). The recommended procedure is to tighten in the at rest position and not full droop. If the bushing was lubed then I don't understand the need for this. 3. What's the order of re-assembly that makes the job easiest? Eg. Inner ball joint first, outer then bushing, or inner then bushing then outer..... etc. Put the lollipop on the ctrl arm them bolt it all together... 4. We'll be using the offset bushings so that the caster on the E36 will change. Does this also dictate a need for alignment after installing the new Control Arms? ALWAYS align after a ctrl arm/CAB change. Paul Garnier FastNetworking.com 281.827.0725 -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 7:12 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] <E36> Front control arm bushings Regarding replacing the front control arms on the E36, I have the following questions: 1. What's the best technique for removing the inner joint? Note: I have the various ball joint removal tools. 2. Why is the bushing a press fit. Doesn't the control arm just rotate in the bushing? If it needs preload, we will use the existing bushing to determine placement on the new control arms. Do you then need to raise the wheel hub assembly before tightening the lolly-pop bolts? 3. What's the order of re-assembly that makes the job easiest? Eg. Inner ball joint first, outer then bushing, or inner then bushing then outer..... etc. 4. We'll be using the offset bushings so that the caster on the E36 will change. Does this also dictate a need for alignment after installing the new Control Arms? Note the new control arms have the new Meyle outer joints already pressed in. Thanks, Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 19:32:29 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Paul Garnier'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> Front control arm bushings Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've never not had the BFH whack fail. Sometimes I need a Bigger BFH or a longer swing. Just be careful the control arm doesn't just fall out and land on your foot or head depending on if you're using a lift or lying on your back. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of marshall lytle Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 6:46 PM To: 'Paul Garnier'; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> Front control arm bushings 1. sometimes the "good whack" technique works, sometimes it doesn't. Then you breakout the big pickle fork and a bigger hammer. If that doesn't work, it it time to drop the subframe and whack the top of the stud with an even bigger hammer. (my subframe is coming off in a couple days to do this on the race car) 2. do the bushing last. The soap needs to dry when the car is sitting at normal ride height. 3. should put control arm on car first. Lollipop with bushing is the last part to put on. (see 2) 4. yup. Always do an alignment after you change anything on the suspension. Marshall -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Garnier Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:31 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> Front control arm bushings 1. What's the best technique for removing the inner joint? Note: I have the various ball joint removal tools. After loosening the locknut/nylock, give the subframe surrounding the conical shaft of the balljoint a "good whack" with your favorite large hammer. (major points off for using a claw hammer) 2. Why is the bushing a press fit. Doesn't the control arm just rotate in the bushing? If it needs preload, we will use the existing bushing to determine placement on the new control arms. Do you then need to raise the wheel hub assembly before tightening the lolly-pop bolts? Because it's tight hard rubber to eliminate vibration and rattles. The control arm does not rotate in the bushing once the soapy water, you used to mount it, dries. No preload is needed (AFAIK). The recommended procedure is to tighten in the at rest position and not full droop. If the bushing was lubed then I don't understand the need for this. 3. What's the order of re-assembly that makes the job easiest? Eg. Inner ball joint first, outer then bushing, or inner then bushing then outer..... etc. Put the lollipop on the ctrl arm them bolt it all together... 4. We'll be using the offset bushings so that the caster on the E36 will change. Does this also dictate a need for alignment after installing the new Control Arms? ALWAYS align after a ctrl arm/CAB change. Paul Garnier FastNetworking.com 281.827.0725 -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 7:12 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] <E36> Front control arm bushings Regarding replacing the front control arms on the E36, I have the following questions: 1. What's the best technique for removing the inner joint? Note: I have the various ball joint removal tools. 2. Why is the bushing a press fit. Doesn't the control arm just rotate in the bushing? If it needs preload, we will use the existing bushing to determine placement on the new control arms. Do you then need to raise the wheel hub assembly before tightening the lolly-pop bolts? 3. What's the order of re-assembly that makes the job easiest? Eg. Inner ball joint first, outer then bushing, or inner then bushing then outer..... etc. 4. We'll be using the offset bushings so that the caster on the E36 will change. Does this also dictate a need for alignment after installing the new Control Arms? Note the new control arms have the new Meyle outer joints already pressed in. Thanks, Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007 2:51 PM ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 20:04:53 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> chirp at idle? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Last few days I hear this sound at idle and just above. Only when the engine is warm, and only at perhaps idle through 1200rpm. It's sort of a chirp. Not a whine or a squeal or a screech. A chirp. A whistle. I rather recently replaced my water pump, and had been wondering if there was some connection... but tonight noticed that it gets worse when I turn my headlights on. Sheeesh, is this a sign of an alternator on the way out? Belts and tensioner pulleys are reasonably new, and this is not a rear seal thing (BTDT). Thoughts? - Kevin Jay '96 328is, red/tan, 104K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 67K, bone stock ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(7 messages) **********
