Paddy,
I know a few Mr "policeman" and quite honestly they couldn't give a toss
what's under your bonnet (L16/L18/L20B especially if they catch you doing
donuts. The replacement L4 series engine in most places these days are just
notify DMR authority of a replacement engine number. If you are registered
already in the ACT you don't even have to get a rwc for these engines in NA
form, they just look at the engine number and if the battery is in properly
and it's not smoky or noisy. I would think if you supercharged any L4 then
that would make a difference with safety equipment (mainly brakes) but it's
the same deal for a L16 SC anyway, I think the same rules apply for SC or
turbo as the national rules book calls either "forced induction" these days
so there's little chance of the confusion associated with what form of
charging was used in days past.
I'm not trying to talk you out of using a L16 if that's what you have or
really want, but I'm suggesting that you get all the facts that apply in
your state before you spend heaps of $$$ and I've found over the years that
it's not wise to go into a project with the idea that I'm going to do it
twice. It would be a pity to find out later that you could have used a
better engine for the same $$$ and associated conversion hassles. If you do
decide that you will SC a L16 I'd also suggest you make sure you have the
version with the larger bearing caps (9mm bolts) as the smaller ones that
have the 8mm bolts were prone to going bang with around a 50% increase in
power from NA mods. I can't remember what the engine number was when they
changed (Errol or Brad?) might know.
My preferred L series configuration for forced induction is an early L18W
SSS block (steel crank), retrofitted with 6mm dished pistons and a big port
200B head so you don't need to use an awful decomp plate. You can even bore
this configuration by 1mm without any problems as the CR will still be
around 8:1.
terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of paddy mcmillan
Sent: Saturday, 30 September 2000 2:02 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Turbo'd L series
because its rego`d in the car already and i dont want to show mr
policeman whats under my bonnet yet ;) id rather surprise him(or is that
confuse him?)gives me somthin to upgrade to later when this isnt powerful
enuff anymore and its a cheap and easy low compression motor to build.
Paddy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Heath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: Turbo'd L series
> why only L16?
>
> Heath
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "paddy mcmillan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, 29 September 2000 7:34
> Subject: Re: Turbo'd L series
>
>
> > g`day,
> > im going to use a single 1.75" SU suck thru carb setup on an L16 .080"
> o/s
> > with L18 rods to give about 7.5:1 compression.
> > should have it running in a few weeks hopefully.
> > Paddy
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Heath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 4:53 PM
> > Subject: Re: Turbo'd L series
> >
> >
> > > what induction type r u using?
> > >
> > > Heath
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "paddy mcmillan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Friday, 29 September 2000 12:10
> > > Subject: Re: Turbo'd L series
> > >
> > > > g`day,
> > > > I AM building a turbo L16 and it will cost me ABOUT $2000,
> admittingly
> > it
> > > > wont be as good as an SR or CA etc, but it will be a turbo L not an
SR
> > or
> > > CA
> > > > etc.
> > > > reliability? its a datsun motor! i can replace bits IF they break
> > > > power? how much from a stock CA?
> > > > fuel economy? couldnt be any worse than it is.
> > > > whats a VRS(gaskets etc.) worth for the SR or CA??
> > > > AFR in adelaide had an Lseries turbo manifold for $250 a few mths
ago
> > > > Paddy
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Heath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 10:02 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Turbo'd L series
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > i would like to see u build a L series turbo for $2000? that cuts
> the
> > > > > mustard
> > > > > power?
> > > > > fuel economy?
> > > > > reliability?
> > > > > decent manifolds and turbo would cost more than $2000, then add
> > carby's
> > > > need
> > > > > at least twin CD's
> > > > > and methanol injection or if u go fuel injection add computer,
> > > injectors,
> > > > > intercooler etc
> > > > > then we get to the motor.
> > > > > I have weighed this all up with looking at a turbo L series for my
> > coupe
> > > > > for $2000 i got the complete CA18det with intercooler, 5 speed
> > computer
> > > > and
> > > > > the loom.
> > > > > both Mike Vine and custom exhaust wanted $1000 just for the
> manifolds
> > > for
> > > > a
> > > > > decent L series turbo setup.
> > > > >
> > > > > Heath NFI
> > > > > "shit happens"
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "paddy mcmillan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, 28 September 2000 9:37
> > > > > Subject: Re: Turbo'd L series
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > SR CA or FJ cheaper than an Lseries? i doubt that very much
> > > > > > $2000 to buy a 2nd hand SR or ca etc. and say $2000 to build a
> > turbo
> > > L
> > > > > > how much to fit an SR compared to fitting an Lseries?
> > > > > > i rekon a turbo L on gas would end up a lot cheaper than the
cost
> to
> > > fit
> > > > > an
> > > > > > SR or CA etc.
> > > > > > Paddy
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: "Heath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > > Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 4:31 PM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: Turbo'd L series
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > mal in NZ sells them
> > > > > >
> > > > > > what are u after exactly David
> > > > > > what sort of HP do u want?
> > > > > > Mike Vine or custom exhaust specialists
> > > > > > want around $1000 just for the manifolds, add turbo,
> > > > > > then carby or efi, i looked at turboing a L series for serious
HP,
> > > > > > buy an FJ or SR or CA. newer technology with EFI and 16 valves
and
> > > will
> > > > > work
> > > > > > out cheaper
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Heath
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > > From: David Costello
> > > > > > To: Online Datsun Club
> > > > > > Sent: Thursday, 28 September 2000 12:03
> > > > > > Subject: Turbo'd L series
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > someone a while ago mentioned they could supply L series turbo
> > > > manifolds
> > > > > >
> > > > > > who was it again? and how much would you be asking?
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> >
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> >
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>
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