g`day,
im going to use a Hitachi ht18s-2s turbo from a series 4 RX-7, ive got the
manifolds and turbo already, just need to make up an exhaust, organize the
oil & water lines for the turbo, get the carb & cable setup finished and
then a quick ring and bearing job on the motor, then fit it all in me car
and tune it. (i think thats about it) would like to have it goin for the
Adelaide cruise (oct 21) but things are goin a bit slow.
im either going to reuse my W53 head or an A87 i have here depending on the
W53`s condition.as for the cam i got a few here i can try. i didnt think the
factory C cam had that much lift? .497" is a fair bit. Is there a diff
between the C and C1?
was that use the pressure from the turbo to power the water feed for the
injection instead of using a squirter motor? the low water level switch
sounds like a good thing. the ford bottle is pretty trendy lookin isnt it,
dunno where it would fit tho
what is a Hobbs switch worth?
Paddy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 9:20 PM
Subject: RE: Turbo'd L series
> Paddy,
> You will get good power from a L16, consider using an A87 41cc L18 35 or
> 38mm head and not the 210 head, 170hp? yes I think so fairly easily. Have
> you thought about which turbo to use, FJ T03 is good, better RB30 hybrid,
> even a T28 would be nice on a L16 turbo. How do like the water injection
> trick with the Ford water bottle, it's so easy to do and very inexpensive.
> Turbo L's don't produce their best if you use a wild cam, a S1 L20B cam is
> about perfect C1 U20 stamping, it's about identical to a L16SSS cam with
> ~25? 4 or 6 degree duration and ~.497" lift.
>
> Have some fun with the L16 learning what works and what doesn't.
>
> The L16 crank is cast. The L18 SSS engines that were fitted with high
> compression pistons i.e. W blocks and most import L18SSS were fitted with
a
> machined crank that Nissan parts ppl (:- referred to as steel cranks -
they
> were sort after by the rally engine builders, at Lennocks we had a waiting
> list in the old days. The 610SSS and some 710SSS were the only production
> steel cranks in L powered dattos that I know of.
>
> The L18W block has Siamese water jackets and about 25% more water
capacity,
> stronger rib bracing, basically and industrial strength block. The steel
> cranks were fitted to some non W 610SSS engines in Australia, but these
were
> the exception rather than the norm.
>
> terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of paddy mcmillan
> Sent: Saturday, 30 September 2000 6:54 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Turbo'd L series
>
>
> g`day,
> as i said before, when i get bored with this motor ill change to a
bigger
> Lseries. it wont cost very much to change from the l16 block to an l20
will
> it, as for the rods they are L18 and have the 9mm bolts in them. ive
changed
> me brakes to the 200b ones for now, but am still lookin into a larger
setup.
> im not trying to build a perfect long lasting motor i just want somthin i
> can cane the shit out off for a while with out costing a years income to
> fit, but be able to replace/upgrade easily/cheaply when that time comes
and
> i dont think there is any other option as good as an Lseries.
> if i can get anywhere near170hp from this i would be happy(for now).
> Terry, you mentioned the L18w having a steel crank, whats the L16 crank
> made from? and whats the difference between a SSS L18W and a non SSS L18W?
> SSS nonW L18?
> paddy
>
>
>
>
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