Hi, I had the mother board ribbon cable job done and all has been good since then. Graeme.
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ike Zimbel Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 9:53 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: NEOTEK: Elite questions (was Elan meters) Hi Tommy, Answers in BLUE, below. On 1/23/2010 5:28 PM, Tommy Mokas wrote: > Ike, > > Re: the master section, that sounds about right. I've gotten down in > there with the tech I had come in and look at it before, and it > certainly does NOT look like a small amount of work, but for someone > who knows how to do this, what should that cost? I realize the parts > can't be that expensive :)There's a few "it depends"sort of things > (like if the connectors on the master modules need replacing at the > same time) that could affect the price. I'm supposed to be doing one > here in Toronto some time this year, if the time and money come > together. I will start pricing it out at any rate. > > The power supply doesn't appear to have any sort of model number on it > (unless you can indicate to me where i'd find that). however, the way > that its constructed might indicate that it has been modified, as it > doesn't look factory. Post a picture. They are probably PS-3's. > > It has 5 fuses with indicator lights in the front of it, in order: > +18, -18, Logic, Meter, Phantom > > They are labeled with a P-Touch style labeler with their values, in > order: > 8A, 8A, 1A, 3A, 2A > > There are also two other fuses to the left and right of the power > switch, both at 7A. > > This board was also previously fitted with an Audio Kinetics VCA > Automation system, but I never owned it and its only remains are the > large P&G faders and the plates that accompany them, labeled and cut > with the holes where the automation buttons would be. > > It has 32 mono modules and does not have a master insert. Its another > thing i'd love to add eventually. The tech that helped me get out of > my original panic of the master section (I was stuck in dim mode and > talkback didn't work) was describing some sort of custom made master > insert that would be made with Neve line drivers, giving it some > transformer mojo. Not sure what you have to say in the ways of that. > I should have the circuit cards for my master insert mod in my hands > some time next week. I am not a big fan of kit-bashing different makes > of consoles into one frame. Most people like the Neotek because they > are a very clean, honest, musical desk. What I recommend is put a > Neotek style master insert point in, and then you can insert whatever > kind of Mojo you want on a project by project basis. If you want to > hear what an Elite can sound like after it has been worked on by me, > buy this CD:http://www.corinraymond.com/ (there's not much to see on > the web site, just click on the "Buy it Now" button...that takes you > to CD Baby where you can buy a song or two, or the whole album). > Tracked and mixed here in Toronto at the Rogue Studios on an Elite 364 > that has had the following done: Power supply rebuild/upgrade, Stereo > Master and Monitor section upgrade, balanced insert return on two mix > added and some upgrades to theMic Pre, Line inputs, HPF and Buss amps > on the first dozen or so modules, where a lot of the work was done. > Engineered by James Paul who also owns the studio. > > It was originally at Forge Recording outside of Philadelphia, PA. It > was used to do :30 sec spots to tape and still has a digital stop > clock mounted next to the big VU's, but unfortunately it no longer > functions. From what I've been told, this board was ordered the way > that it is custom, which if I recall correctly, was the case with most > Neotek's in the '80's. > > For the record, I think this console sounds fantastic! But hey, what > kind of engineer would I be if I didn't want it to be better? Would > love to hear your thoughts concerning moving it as well, and the best > way to do so. Do what Jim said in his post. Just make sure to be > careful with the ribbon cables when you take the modules out. Pack the > modules away carefully. Don't lose the screws, they're hard to find! Best, Ike > > > > > On Jan 23, 2010, at 3:17 PM, Ike Zimbel wrote: > >> Hi Tommy, >> The short answer is that the master section gets modified so the >> mother board stays on the bottom of the console and new female Molex >> headers are attached to motherboard via short ribbon cables, so the >> master section is mounted sorta' like the channel modules. It's a big >> job that involves a lot of de-soldering on the motherboard (tricky). >> What model power supplies do you have, PS-3? They will benefit >> from a rebuild. >> Which console do you have, an Elite or Elan? >> Best, >> Ike >> >> On 1/23/2010 2:13 PM, Tommy Mokas wrote: >>> Hello everyone, I believe it was recently a point of discussion, but >>> it is there a general consensus on the best way to redo the master >>> section in an 80's (mine is from 1986) Elite or Elan and move it >>> away from its poorly designed daughterboard situation? I have some >>> days when I have to tap/coerce it so that my meters and/or stereo >>> bus operate correctly, and it really doesn't bode well with me to >>> leave it as is forever, whether it works or not....especially if >>> clients are about. >>> >>> Also, if I were to want to move the console to a new location, is it >>> best to pull out each card and the master section and move the frame >>> separate? It seems like that would be a good time to do the master >>> section work if that were the case. >>> >>> One final question....I have two power supplies, and I have only >>> ever used one of them. I want to see which of them is better, and >>> to my knowledge, they are both stock. What are some things I should >>> look for, or even ways to go about testing this (both electronically >>> and sonically)? Furthermore, should I determine that they are both >>> of equal quality, what are some mods that can be done to improve its >>> design and maybe therefore improving my headroom? I wouldn't be >>> performing any of these mods by myself, but have some handy friends! >>> >>> Thanks so much, this list has been such a valuable resource. I love >>> my Neotek and intend to use it for many years ahead, gotta make sure >>> my baby's healthy! >>> >>> Best, >>> Tommy >>> >>> >>> >>> > -- Ike Zimbel Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd. Toronto 416-720-0887 "Studio House Calls". Authorized Warranty service for Allen& Heath, Clear-Com, Drawmer, Soundcraft, SPL and Yamaha. Repairs and upgrades to analog audio equipment including: AMEK, dbx, Neve, Neotek, MCI, Soundcraft and more. Ask about our RF Frequency co-ordination services! www.zimbelaudio.com ------ View the list online at: http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] You can unsubscribe at anytime by sending an email to mailto:[email protected] with "unsubscribe neotek" in the message body. If you have any difficulties, or questions --please send an email to mailto:[email protected]. The Neotek list is lovingly hosted by Catapult Web. Remember that any message or reply sent to the list will be automatically forwarded to all subscribers. Vive Le Neotek! Thanks. ------ View the list online at: http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] You can unsubscribe at anytime by sending an email to mailto:[email protected] with "unsubscribe neotek" in the message body. If you have any difficulties, or questions --please send an email to mailto:[email protected]. The Neotek list is lovingly hosted by Catapult Web. Remember that any message or reply sent to the list will be automatically forwarded to all subscribers. Vive Le Neotek! Thanks.
