Hi Tommy,
Answers in BLUE, below.
On 1/23/2010 5:28 PM, Tommy Mokas wrote:
Ike,
Re: the master section, that sounds about right. I've gotten down in
there with the tech I had come in and look at it before, and it
certainly does NOT look like a small amount of work, but for someone
who knows how to do this, what should that cost? I realize the parts
can't be that expensive :)There's a few "it depends"sort of things
(like if the connectors on the master modules need replacing at the
same time) that could affect the price. I'm supposed to be doing one
here in Toronto some time this year, if the time and money come
together. I will start pricing it out at any rate.
The power supply doesn't appear to have any sort of model number on it
(unless you can indicate to me where i'd find that). however, the way
that its constructed might indicate that it has been modified, as it
doesn't look factory. Post a picture. They are probably PS-3's.
It has 5 fuses with indicator lights in the front of it, in order:
+18, -18, Logic, Meter, Phantom
They are labeled with a P-Touch style labeler with their values, in
order:
8A, 8A, 1A, 3A, 2A
There are also two other fuses to the left and right of the power
switch, both at 7A.
This board was also previously fitted with an Audio Kinetics VCA
Automation system, but I never owned it and its only remains are the
large P&G faders and the plates that accompany them, labeled and cut
with the holes where the automation buttons would be.
It has 32 mono modules and does not have a master insert. Its another
thing i'd love to add eventually. The tech that helped me get out of
my original panic of the master section (I was stuck in dim mode and
talkback didn't work) was describing some sort of custom made master
insert that would be made with Neve line drivers, giving it some
transformer mojo. Not sure what you have to say in the ways of that.
I should have the circuit cards for my master insert mod in my hands
some time next week. I am not a big fan of kit-bashing different makes
of consoles into one frame. Most people like the Neotek because they
are a very clean, honest, musical desk. What I recommend is put a
Neotek style master insert point in, and then you can insert whatever
kind of Mojo you want on a project by project basis. If you want to
hear what an Elite can sound like after it has been worked on by me,
buy this CD:http://www.corinraymond.com/ (there's not much to see on
the web site, just click on the "Buy it Now" button...that takes you
to CD Baby where you can buy a song or two, or the whole album).
Tracked and mixed here in Toronto at the Rogue Studios on an Elite 364
that has had the following done: Power supply rebuild/upgrade, Stereo
Master and Monitor section upgrade, balanced insert return on two mix
added and some upgrades to theMic Pre, Line inputs, HPF and Buss amps
on the first dozen or so modules, where a lot of the work was done.
Engineered by James Paul who also owns the studio.
It was originally at Forge Recording outside of Philadelphia, PA. It
was used to do :30 sec spots to tape and still has a digital stop
clock mounted next to the big VU's, but unfortunately it no longer
functions. From what I've been told, this board was ordered the way
that it is custom, which if I recall correctly, was the case with most
Neotek's in the '80's.
For the record, I think this console sounds fantastic! But hey, what
kind of engineer would I be if I didn't want it to be better? Would
love to hear your thoughts concerning moving it as well, and the best
way to do so. Do what Jim said in his post. Just make sure to be
careful with the ribbon cables when you take the modules out. Pack the
modules away carefully. Don't lose the screws, they're hard to find!
Best,
Ike
On Jan 23, 2010, at 3:17 PM, Ike Zimbel wrote:
Hi Tommy,
The short answer is that the master section gets modified so the
mother board stays on the bottom of the console and new female Molex
headers are attached to motherboard via short ribbon cables, so the
master section is mounted sorta' like the channel modules. It's a big
job that involves a lot of de-soldering on the motherboard (tricky).
What model power supplies do you have, PS-3? They will benefit
from a rebuild.
Which console do you have, an Elite or Elan?
Best,
Ike
On 1/23/2010 2:13 PM, Tommy Mokas wrote:
Hello everyone, I believe it was recently a point of discussion, but
it is there a general consensus on the best way to redo the master
section in an 80's (mine is from 1986) Elite or Elan and move it
away from its poorly designed daughterboard situation? I have some
days when I have to tap/coerce it so that my meters and/or stereo
bus operate correctly, and it really doesn't bode well with me to
leave it as is forever, whether it works or not....especially if
clients are about.
Also, if I were to want to move the console to a new location, is it
best to pull out each card and the master section and move the frame
separate? It seems like that would be a good time to do the master
section work if that were the case.
One final question....I have two power supplies, and I have only
ever used one of them. I want to see which of them is better, and
to my knowledge, they are both stock. What are some things I should
look for, or even ways to go about testing this (both electronically
and sonically)? Furthermore, should I determine that they are both
of equal quality, what are some mods that can be done to improve its
design and maybe therefore improving my headroom? I wouldn't be
performing any of these mods by myself, but have some handy friends!
Thanks so much, this list has been such a valuable resource. I love
my Neotek and intend to use it for many years ahead, gotta make sure
my baby's healthy!
Best,
Tommy
--
Ike Zimbel
Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
Toronto
416-720-0887
"Studio House Calls". Authorized Warranty service for Allen& Heath, Clear-Com,
Drawmer, Soundcraft, SPL and Yamaha. Repairs and upgrades to analog audio equipment
including: AMEK, dbx, Neve, Neotek, MCI, Soundcraft and more. Ask about our RF Frequency
co-ordination services!
www.zimbelaudio.com
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