Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Little Bit on Speakers

2007-01-30 Thread Lewisjalexander
DynAudio  speaker and monitoring systems are no longer domestic grade.  they 
are for us audio professionals, studio engineers and technicians for audio  
and video broadcast. they use specialist damping solutions designed to make the 
 
casing less vibration amped and more  accurate in projection of sound. 
 
a good trick for speaker and monitoring systems is to place mid to high  
density foam under the speakers to raise them 1 inch or more from the surface  
you've placed them on to absorb bass resonant requencies. also the issue of  
cabling. cabling for monitor and reference speakers, amps and sattelites for  
studio use is more advanced these days than the good old days of standard 2 
core  
copper cable. its now high grade gold cable to male and female XLR  terminals.
 
I miss their old speakers in those nice attractive oak cabinets.. I had a  
pair up until 3 years back when the tweaters  imploded on themselves after  
some 
idiot tapped a piezo microphone and clipped a channel too hard on my tascam  
analogue desk.
 
lol nothing new there hehehe
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] stuck CD drive

2007-01-30 Thread Lewisjalexander
pozi drive bits are basically   star screw drivers lol your basic  screw 
driver.  we in the UK refer to them as Pozi drive and flats.
 
just to correct an issue regarding jumper drive positions on CD drives. the  
mainboard prints are all the same so you will find that on ALL CD drives 
master  jumper port is 3 and 6. after working in computing for a number of 
years 
for  apple and having built systems for custom needs, I would know the 
difference  lol
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] stuck CD drive

2007-01-30 Thread Lewisjalexander
its a phillips bit to you guys lol hehehehe oops sorry I was being a boob  lol
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Little Bit on Speakers

2007-01-30 Thread Lewisjalexander
I'm refering to nearfield, mainfield and 5.1 surround studio monitors as  
well as some of their custom solutions. knowing their quality well and being a  
guy in a digital studio I always insist on using professional sound hardware. 
it  has to do its job or not at all. I use a dynAudio 5.1 system pro grade with 
 a  series of pro made DA/AD converters and  gold XLR cables  throughout. the 
console I use these days is an AMS Neive 64 channel digital desk  with 5.1 
mix capability and direct outs, tape returns and optical core drive  designed 
by 
neive to control the DAW from the desk. full automation control and  the full 
feel of an analogue console. including all the pots for EQ, panning,  shift 
and more. its such a beautiful console. will be on the road soon with her  and 
my Mac pro system and pro-tools HD
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Little Bit on Speakers

2007-01-30 Thread Lewisjalexander
all the cabling I use is pure gold. expensive but well worth it. All XLR  
connections on the speakers to the console. the cabinets are made of  1  inch 
thick MDF and are liquid type controllers.  constant cooling and  digital 
amplification.
 
the cabling just for the speaker system cost about £120 for 6 cables. made  
my own. just the cabling and connectors were a bit pricy. the patchbay for the  
console cost £3600 for 64 channel neutric dual connect  sockets male and  
female xlr feed outs for stage work etc.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] stuck CD drive

2007-01-29 Thread Lewisjalexander
hi there.
 
the CD drive is easy to remove. but try this first as this is what I do to  
any PC with a damaged CD tray. with a strong metaal rod like a thin allen key  
the size of the hole, send it in the hole and push when the drive is powered 
up.  bring the tray out fully til it stops. then clean underneeth the track 
where  there is a grip or  teeth.  then close the draw normally but then  press 
the eject button half way when closing so it re runs. if it doesn't happen  
then power the system down, open the PC by removing the side panel in most 
cases  
on the left held by two screws, where the CD drive is the initial drive 
damaged,  take a small pozi drive screw driver and remove the screws holding 
that 
drive  carefully. it should have been screwed in buy two screws on 1 side and 
two on  another.. make sure you dont drop or lose these in the case as they 
could cause  damage to the mainboard etc.  when the drive is unscrewed then 
gently push  it out from the back. you will have 3 cables attached in most 
cases. 
audio which  is a really small cable which you need to push down on a small 
catch to remove  it gently, the IDE cable controller (ribbon cable) and the 
power 
supply cable (4  cables into a  white plastic plug). remove these gently so 
you can re  install them with another drive.
 
when the drive is removed you need to check if this drive is the master or  
slave. next to where the IDE cable comes out there will be  a set of 6  pins  3 
top 3 bottom. if the drive is in master then there will be a small  jumper 
block on the right hand  side. if its in slave it will be in the  centre two 
pins.
 
get your new drive and make sure that the jumper pins are  set as the  other 
drive was set otherwise there could be conflicts in IDE 1 and IDE 2  
master/slave modes in the computer BIOS.
 
its an easy job to re install the drive. just be a bit careful. close the  
case up after locking the drive back in the brackets and power up.
 
hope this helps
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Carving By Louis

2007-01-24 Thread Lewisjalexander
that was so good that I fell off my pirch laughing my socks off lol
 
in that case here's what it really sounds like lol
 
dr'dr'dr'dr'dr'dr'drum'm'm'm   dr'dr'dr'dr'dr'drum'm'm'm'm'm  
gr'gr'gr'gr'gr'gr'gr'gr'gr'grum'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm
gr'gr'gr'gr'grum'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'mgr'gr'gr'gr'gr'gr'gr'gr'grim
'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm
gr'gr'gr'gr'gr'gr'grumgr'gr'gr'gr'grum'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm 
dr'dr'dr'dr'dr'dr'dr'dr'dr'drim'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'mdr'dr'dr'dr'dr'dr'dr'drum'm
'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm'm
gr'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'r'rowl'l'l'l'l'l'l'l'l'l'l'l'l 
 
hehehehe
 
kidding lol sounds a lot sexier than that lol.
 
lew
 


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Carving By Louis

2007-01-24 Thread Lewisjalexander
oy? what's with the repeats of my tutorials lol. if you want a hamster to  
teach you how to make saw dust from a chainsaw and a log then ask the hamster  
lol in other words... me hehehehehehe
 
lew


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[BlindHandyMan] For Sale: professional woodlathe and mini chainsaw in the UK

2007-01-24 Thread Lewisjalexander
Hi guys. 
 with my last posting stated I am closing down my workshop and selling  
equipment.
 
I am selling the following equipment:
Record Power CL3-36 professional wood lathe rig including  cast iron  machine 
bench, bowl turning system, tool rests, chucks, live centres, drill  chuck, 
various chisels, record power bench grinder for chisels including white  stone 
and grey stone, record power drill stand with morticing equipment. £400  for 
the lot. buyer in UK to collect. can be seen working.
 
Stihl MS170 lightweight professional chainsaw. Excellent condition. new.  
comes with 12 inch and 14 inch bars and chains, service tools, oils and fuel  
tank. as used by myself for shows and professional carving and machining. is  
looked after. all chains are razer sharp and the system is 100% clean. £120.  
buyer in UK to collect. can be seen working. will offer chainsaw lessons. with  
price
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] For Sale: professional woodlathe and mini chainsaw in th...

2007-01-24 Thread Lewisjalexander
it is not being treated in this way.
 
I am simply closing down my workshop and  selling what is left.  equipment 
suitab;le for a blind user or adapted. so there's no need for  directivity of 
subject matter. that kind of process on a listserve produces  negativity etc. 
the amount of list serves I've been a part of, ran or  been  part of moderation 
staff, I've seen it all before. so don't get me wrong. there  is no need for 
direct and sometimes to the point postings. 
 
does human emotion exist or is it void to people these days. humour and  
other parts of the human psychie are  components of life and they can not  be 
audited or restricted by any person.
 
you may kick me off this list if you feel like it. my views are this.  never  
run a list without humour of any kind as it's not business directed  nor 
corporate, allow the list to be open in its usage and it will thrive.
 
yours
 
lewis alexander
BlindSound Studios Ltd
Wales
UK.
 
systems designer, studio producer and installer.
 
as of now the carving and machining shops are closed down and hardware is  
for sale.


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] removeing rivits

2007-01-22 Thread Lewisjalexander
the best way to remove rivets from frames etc is to use a HSS drill bit of  
aprox 3 to 4mm diameter. with an electric drill at about 1600rpm or  to  
2000rpm. be gentle with the bit as they do become delicate and hot and make 
sure  
you grip the drill well as spiraling  can occur and can damage the drill or  
you.
 
if its drilling rivets from sheet steel  or quarter plate then use a  HSS 
drill about the same diameter as the rim of the rivet and drill carefully.  
most 
of the time I would advise using a 4mm bit for most rivets to cut through  the 
centre .
 
hope this helps
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] general electric braille typewriter

2007-01-22 Thread Lewisjalexander
hey there.
 
sorry I've only caught this post lol. can you still get these electric  
braille typers? its rather than spending money on those annoying perkins manual 
 
systems or real stupid money on a braille embosser.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Points to Consider Before buying a Chain Saw, and Useage ...

2007-01-21 Thread Lewisjalexander
ah ha. someone else with chainsaw experience.
 
Being a heavy chainsaw user and  involved in precision work with a  chainsaw 
I have had experience with different manufacturers of chainsaws and  differing 
models and can tell you which are good and which aren't.
 
chainsaws are not just for rough carpentry, with the right chain type, you  
can do precise cuts and carving work with a reasonable level of control. you  
would need a 12 inch bar with a pico mini chain devised by Stihl (one of the  
main brands I use a lot of). if you are going into chainsaw carving like I did 
a  good few years ago, you need a  set of 3 chainsaws maybe 4 if you need an  
electric for backup. a short bar machine (12 inch), A mid size for roughing 
(18  inch or less) and a  feller (20 inch  ish or more) the machines need  to 
have a heavy duty build for thrashing  around. but these saws are also  
delicate 
beauties and must be respected always.  easy starting isn't always  an 
essential. it's designed primarily for those who are a bit weak lol   none of 
my 
rigs have easy start and I can get them running on the 2nd pull.  first pull 
being the fuel prime and 2nd being the runner lol.
 
a real serious tip is this. when starting the machine don't rev it like  
crazy to the top at start as it can harm the engine not to mention cause  
personal 
injury..  there is one chainsaw that a general user cannot use  under law 
without license. that is a top handled chainsaw. it is designed for  
professional 
tree surgery only and for up the top of trees. they are high  powered yet 
light.
 
carving requires skill and  a few tricks and techniques and being  completely 
blind I've devised  new methods which really take advantage of a  pro SAW. 
Stihl have been my choice of saw  since I started. I used a few  other brands 
like echo,  tanaka and others and they were good rigs but not  as comfortable. 
brands like McCulloch are poor quality and not serviceable as  parts are built 
in Korea and are of poor if not inferior quality.  when  working with a 
chainsaw, safety is paramount  so having the right clothing  is essential, 
visors, 
hearing protection, gloves,  chainsaw trousers  and  protective steel toe 
capped boots.
 
hope these words of advise and experience help those interested with  
chainsaw work out. email me for any advice, information on recommended models  
and 
chainsaw care etc.
 
lew
 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] instructions for wiring up a generator

2007-01-19 Thread Lewisjalexander
generators in relation to powering up houses in the USA are ok however  
there's one specific issue for those who use electrical appliances such as  
computers and other sensitive equipment. generators are primarily AC driven but 
 can 
also have DC drive output.  sensitive equipment  should be  protected by surge 
equipment and backup and anti spike boxes. otherwise the  relative 
frequencies of power  to sensitive equipment can cross over and be  destroyed  
as well 
as the main thing of power being interupted by the cycle  of the generator. it 
does not run constant so there will be some variations on  power supply at 
times. if you are doing this, I advise having a test system with  the generator 
to alert you of frequency drop and power trips. also isolated  sockets and 
diagnostics.
 
As I work primarily in studios and on stage these days I always analyse  
power regulation and hire out professional Diesel generators for stage use. 
they  
do not trip as there are always 2 lines of simultanious output  to protect  
against  powerdowns or frequency issues. feedback is also something you  have 
to 
watch out for and overloads.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chop saw hold-downs.

2007-01-11 Thread Lewisjalexander
a serious level of advice here for users of compound mitre, cross cut and  
radial arm saws.
 
when setting timber in the path for cutting, I would advise strongly the  use 
of 2 f or G cramps to secure the timbers. 
 
when lining up the timber to the blade, have the g cramps positioned  and   
slightly slack on the timber and work table so that slight  movement is 
available to lign up the timber to the blade. then one turn  of  the handles to 
lock 
the timber in place. then you have total control of the  timber being cut. I 
also advise the use of 4 inch by 2 inch blocks by 4 inch to  add more stability 
to the boards when cutting as the blade may wrench the  timbers apart 
depending upon the timber being cut.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice

2007-01-10 Thread Lewisjalexander
carl go to your local DIY store mate. you'll find a good yet fairly well  
priced saw. in the late 80s Black  Decker created a drill saw attachment  
which 
was ideal for MDF or fine trimming work yet it was a bit tricky to use and  
never really gave the best results.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] question

2007-01-10 Thread Lewisjalexander
for a blind user, you need to use a straight line to run the machine. even  
then there is a serious tendancy that because of the torque, the high speed of  
the collet and motor and the design of the machine that it will swurve   away 
from the line and can even cause damage. I would only recommend roto saws  as 
they are called here as  a tool for cutting into plasterboard for  installing 
lighting and power sockets,  doing trims if you have a guide  set,  or curve 
cutting. as someone who's used these tools for a good time  since they came 
out I know well
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] question

2007-01-09 Thread Lewisjalexander
spiral saws can be used by a blind or visually impaired person with the  
following recommended technique. I use a spiral saw now and again when I don't  
have the time to start the bandsaw. 
 
when cutting awkward shapes in materials with a spiral saw, use a scribe or  
blade to mark the way so you can feel the cut. then align the cutter with the  
start of the line and gently feed in. with your thumb or finger, follow the  
scribe line while running the machine through the material slowly.
 
simple job. there's no such tool that's not blind unfriendly. its just  
patience and a good workaround for it.
 
as for setting up table saws for zero mode or square set. you often feel  the 
print of the angle read out as it is raised slightly. you can feel the  
critical points and slowly adjust the angle and locate to zero.
 
most standard table saws run left angled but certain saws can run both left  
and right. but they can be set.  I had one table saw which had no markings  to 
feel so  went to a local metalworker's and asked for a 2 inch  by 1  inch 
thick block of metal by about 12 inches. then align the block to the blade  
while 
the machine is OFF. and you will feel the block sets straight with the  blade.
 
problem solved.
 
lew
 
there's no such thing as cant. if you say that you usually find me  breathing 
down your neck saying try again.


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] question

2007-01-09 Thread Lewisjalexander
lets get this issue fixed guys
 
spiral saws are NOT designed for cutting straight or paralell lines in  
anyway these are designed for curve cutting or roundings or specific work. and  
they run at 30,000 RPM so can jurk out of the hand. or burn the material being  
cut. if you are trimming down boards or edging then please use a high quality  
circular saw with the guide fence at the side and the blade set  so that  you 
have enough blade to cover the cut but not so much that the blade is over  
exposed.
 
I recommend something like a bosch professional circular saw 9 inch if its  
heavy duty use. take out the blade that comes with it and buy a trend hyper  
blade. they use a unique blade structure and the higher the kerf of the blade  
(cuts per blade or teeth / sub teeth) the smoother the cut and the more 
reliable  the machine is and won't throw a wobbler while cutting materials. 
 
site saw benches have about 24 teeth on a blade and when you send materials  
in it can kick back and cause problems. not to mention an accident. if you 
stick  to a  pro quality blade then you're happy. 
 
I own a HILTI 9 inch circular saw. this is going to be sold along with the  
rest of the workshop etc. it has a trend hyper XTC blade with 88 teeth with  a  
inverted backside per tooth aiding in the  material removal and  the  
minimization of effort applied on the machine.
 
these cheep circular saws always have crap blades and are horrible.   and 
pull back, jam or cause nasty accidents. the better the quality of the saw,  
you 
should invest in the best blade.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking multimeters and measures.

2006-12-31 Thread Lewisjalexander
you're absolutely right. she was a husband beater. feels weird being alone  
at christmas. yet so damn depressing.  I just hope I don't meet someone  else 
like that or  dangerously psychotic.  domestic violence is the  worst thing in 
the world. I dispise any man who beats, abuses or harms a  woman  as both mum 
and I went through it with my father. thank god he's  dead
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking multimeters and measures.

2006-12-30 Thread Lewisjalexander
my good friend. 
 
it was not a case of keeping her around. when she left of her own accord  
with the guy she'd been cheating with. so in the end I just dealt with it and  
set up a digital  lazer system for a computer with two probes and a piece  of 
software. it was totally inconvenient.
 
in terms of the thought of her this christmas it's enough for me to just  
disappear. I'm so dam tired and lonely. I get the impression at times that I  
could be looked down at as some kind of bad guy. when really I  was the one  
suffering the beetings, the abuse and more. all in the name of love. so yes I  
was 
a total prat.
 
lew
 
merry christmas and a happy new year. this one's my  final


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[BlindHandyMan] speaking multimeters and measures.

2006-12-29 Thread Lewisjalexander
Hi there.
 
does anyone know of any UK based distributors for  any speaking tape  
measures, multimeters and possibly if one exists... a speaking calliper. would  
be 
handy for use in precision work
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking multimeters and measures.

2006-12-29 Thread Lewisjalexander
I used to have a wonderful girlfriend who would be with me all the time and  
would read all the measures for me lol. if it wasn't that it was an old laptop 
 with a PCMCIA card and test tools. that was a total waste of time.
 
now she's gone lol thank god. women who are total evil  can never  treat a 
guy with respect nor love. they just want their way with you, chew you  up and 
spit you out.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] speaking multimeters and measures.

2006-12-29 Thread Lewisjalexander
huh? what what what what what?
 
sorry I didn't mean any offense to women but  christmas is rather  difficult 
for me. being alone this christmas and just trying to hang on for dear  life. 
am looking at closing the workshop completely and selling my tooling and  
machining rigs. so its gonna happen. basically as eventhough I'm capable still  
of 
heavy work. my doctor has advised me against it as I'm now on tranquilisers  
and have been for the past month. before that on antidepressants for 2 years. 
so  health being as it is is getting a pain. so is loneliness this christmas 
and my  fear of women is worse than ever.
 
mind you I still can get on with computing. yes fixing and building  
computers from the comfort of my home and teaching blind and visually impaired  
users 
over the net to use access technologies etc
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dewalt sander

2006-12-25 Thread Lewisjalexander
in terms of sanders and dust extraction, you can get adaptors for it.  
however dust extraction means having a reliable extractor with a  high spec  
filter 
to deal with fine dust particles without  losing the power. also the  fact 
that in some cases dust extraction doesn't always work. as the material  being 
sanded often  creates more dust on the surface and does not get  collected.  I 
use a makita belt sander and I've made a connector for my  power vac by taking 
a stock of tubing and warming the end up with a heat gun.  then forming it and 
cutting slight notches in. it's worked well for me and does  its job all the 
time.
 
 
happy christmas to all
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Compressors

2006-12-22 Thread Lewisjalexander
in regard porn shops selling tooling and equipment it is a dangerous  
subject. I say this in legal terms. often equipment is sold in these shops  
illegally 
as the said equipment is often stolen to fuel a drug addict's  habbit.
 
I had an experience only last year where I was out  at a friend's  garage 
doing some welding work for him. I had 2 grinders (4 inch and 9 inch), an  
industrial impact drill and a box of tools stolen from the site. the welder  
couldn't be moved as it was a diesel driven machine on hire for a construction  
job.
 
luckily I reported the theft of the items with serial and product numbers  
and the security ID tags on the equipment. the police didn't guarantee anything 
 
until I had the  guts to walk into a store where I found my tools on their  
shelf. I had to call the manager out and inform him that he  was in receipt  of 
stolen equipment and he must inform the police and return the items to me. I  
had the list of serial numbers and security tags with me. luckily after half 
an  hour of dealing with the arsehole of a manager who kept denying  the items 
 were stolen, I asked him for details of when the items were sold to him. and 
it  coincided with the date of theft. I asked who  was involved with the  
purchase of the items and the young lad concerned came to the manager to tell  
him that I was not known to him for which the manager had previously implied  
that I sold the items to him. 
 
I asked for a security tape of that day and the manager reviewd such times  
of that day. after that he reluctently returned the tooling to me.
 
I had notified the police of receipt of my tooling and the trace of where  
the items were being sold. the chief inspector  insisted that him and his  team 
from serious fraud squad enter the store and perform a raid on the  store.
 
 
 
anyhow this is good advice. any second hand stores, porn shops or anything  
like that selling equipment at nock off prices is to be avoided unless you  
examine the equipment fully and test it. check for security markings or   
anything like that.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Compressors

2006-12-22 Thread Lewisjalexander
oops sorry I meant one of those shops that sell all sorts of crap people  
can't be bothered with.
 
oh boobs lol ROFL
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] camcorder to dvd

2006-12-21 Thread Lewisjalexander
you can actually have your camcorder hooked up to your PC and record the  
footage if it is tape based to the hard drive and convert it to a suitable 
video  
format to DVD. then it can be burned to the dvd 
 
you will need a video capture card for your PC. either internal PCI or USB  
method or firewire and something like pinacle studio or ulead video solution or 
 something like that. bearing in mind I am a computer tech but doesnt deal in 
 video work.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] mpc recorder

2006-12-21 Thread Lewisjalexander
most of the time I prefer using soundforge for recording and editing MP3  
files. for playing I use winamp. for recording and converting to CD then its  
windows media player with jaws.
 
if there's any mac users on this list can you please get in contact with  me. 
 this is regarding Mac OS X 10.4. can someone spare me a copy? its an  intel 
disc
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] plans for the blind designer and engineer.

2006-12-21 Thread Lewisjalexander
the entire system is really for pro engineers. my friend works in CAD CAM  
and is visually impaired. the entire rig costs £19,000 including the plotter,  
PCI cards and the software. JAWS 7.0 handles it well as you have full math cad  
entry and a few other things. its a wonderful system but hell expensive. 
luckily  he lives a few minutes walk from me and we get on well. we do a lot of 
design  work both circuit based and architect based precision engineering. 
bearing in  mind we are both qualified in precision electronics and engineering.
 
its not something any typical user could use unless turbocad and autoCAD  
respectively were more user available and suitable printing and plotting tools  
were cheeper.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Product Recall

2006-12-21 Thread Lewisjalexander
lets say this for good measure.
 
DONT bother buying dewalt tools. they are absolute crap. here in the UK the  
designs are useless. I had a flip over mitre saw, 9 inch grinder, 2 impact  
drills and a pro wrench. all of them were poor quality for their money and the  
flip over mitre saw developed faults. I was disgusted. 
 
please also be advised that dewalt are owned by an incredibly shit company.  
black and decker. parts found in dewalt tools are black and decker stock. so  
please stay away,
 
if you want good tools, go for metabo, bosch professional, A E G, atlas  
copco, trend, hilti, fein, hitachi, makita.
 
other makes are basically crap and being a heavy tool user in my work. I'm  
strict in my advice to those who want tools at the risk of offending companies  
who try and sell you something.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Project: Theremin unit

2006-12-20 Thread Lewisjalexander
have already bought it. actually designing a circuit board for someone with  
a visual impairment is incredibly tricky. been there done it and got the burns 
 lol hehe
 
you can find that kind of kit either by buying from the moog website or  from 
any music store who can supply it. just search over the net for it. they're  
not that expensive but they are worth the money. I have swapped the antennai 
for  thicker and larger antennai basically by buying  heavy duty  tin  plated 
pipe which is about 10mm diameter and for the pitch rod (vertical right)  have 
made it to about 2 ft instead of the puny one that comes with the kit. and  
the volume antenna which looks kind of like a teddy bear's foot but bigger  
(horizontal left) is made longer and with a larger  set on the  rounding.
 
this enhances the look of the theremin unit, the feel and its playability.  
the trick about this kind of antenna work is making sure that the metal is a  
full electrical conductor as both antennai are LIVE!
 
hope this info helps.
 
oh just for info
 
the actual circuit board comes with a bracket holding 4 controllers, 1 jack  
(1/4 inch dia) and the power switch. there is a power transformer with the 
unit  which is 100 to 240v for UK and US customers or where ever purchased.  
the  
actual unit is fairly easy to build. I've completed all the circuitry and am  
half way through installing it and finishing the case. will finish it in the  
next day or two
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gift Wrapping Tips For Men

2006-12-19 Thread Lewisjalexander
it could be that pixies have mastered the internet and have started  
broadcasting emails of unsolicited junk. either that or someone from the  
microsoft 
company has figured out a way to fill the internet with so much crap  lol. oh 
dear. some sad muppet with a cup of coffee in hand and a laptop.
 
well that's nothing new these days lol pixies in particular.
 
so therefore you should take a good cup of tea before reading HearSay on  
the net. this wonderful world of pure adulterated tripe 
 
mind you.. chris de berg could be just the same. the purvayor of  
ultimate filth! lol
 
lew
 
excuse my random rant lol
 
it could be that 4 hedgehogs feeding on honey could fall in your eyes. mind  
you there's always argos


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[BlindHandyMan] Project: Theremin unit

2006-12-19 Thread Lewisjalexander
Hi guys
 
well here's a rather unusual project. nothing new there with me. this is  
something I'm going to be working on through christmas and new year.
 
The theremin is an instrument designed in the late 1920's by a chap called  
Leon theremin. it is a radio based synthesizer relying on the electro magnetic  
pulses of the body to play the two antennai  as the hands control pitch and  
volume.
 
Components needed for this job are listed below:
 
Moog etherwave circuit board, antennai and components,
1 of 12 inch by 6 ft spruce, pine or suitable wood and 1 of 18 inch by 6 ft  
both of which at least 3/4 inch thick.(read cutting list in next section)
finnishing nails,
blocks (1/2 inch x 1/2 inch x 3 inch) a good load of those made of wooden  
squared dowel.
4 of 2 ft x 2.5 inch squared matching timber. if pine or spruce etc. either  
would suit.
4 small rubber feet.
2 of 12 inch x 1 inch x 3 inch
2 of 18 inch x 1 inch x 3 inch
4 of  3 inch x 1 inch x 3 inch blocks angled both sides at  45 degree.
1 sheet of partical board 1/8 inch thick or more  depending on choice  
spanned size of 18 inch x  24 inch
 
main board cuttings
 
this is i n reference to the two boards needed for the carcas  of the  
instrument.
2 of 12 inch x 24 inch boards,
1 of 12 inch x 18 inch board (underside of box,
1 of 18 inch x 4 inch (top panel board)
1 x 18 inch by8 inch front straight panel
 1 x 18 inch by 19 inch at first (angle board for front.)
 
the back is made of partical board and needs to be accessible so will be  
held in by small screws.
 
tools needed for this job will be a decent quality saw (table or circular  
with a reliable blade) talking tape measure or an assistant, belt sander,  
finishing sander with 8 grades of sand paper 40 grit to 400 grit. a pilot 
drill,  
bag of small screws 3/4 inch or inch long recommended. countersink, cordless  
drill or power screw driver., router or precission miller for routing the vent  
on the  partical board and routing the seems for the board to fit.) 16 mm  
drill bit (spade is fine for this)  and a suitable finish. in my case I am  
ebonising it to give that sexy piano black look.
 
now we get to work on this.
 
first thing is to deal with the main boards for cutting. the worst are the  
side panels as there's some calculative measuring to be done and marking.   
from the list I stated 2 of 12 inch by 24 inch boards. with these cut square  
then go to one side of  the board along the 24 inch line and mark  8  inches 
from 
the bottom. and along the top, come from the back and measure  in 4 inches 
and lark those points. now with a rule or straight edge either  mark with a pen 
or scribe or knife. as long as both boards match up perfectly  then you can 
lay the first board on top of the other and feed the material into  the saw to 
remove the timber.
 
the rest is fairly simple. though here's a trick I came across in the  
initial design process.
 
the measurements I've given are general and will need slight lessening as  
the point  or edges will need trimming, moulding or routing for dove   or  
quartering
 
don't be concerned as to the front angled board's two ends to meet the  front 
lower board and top board. . I usually cheat and set my table saw to do an  
angle cut at 15 degree on the top board and 45 degree on the top and bottom  
sides of the front angled board (the controller board). in saying this  the  
top 
board must have the cut as internal and not external so that the cut is not  
seen..
 
it is a simple thing of  creating a series of blocks for the   internal 
structures. make at least 20 just in case. 1/2 inch squared dowel for  this. 
and 
make them between 2 inch and 3 inch length. these are for holding the  internal 
sides together without showing the screws or anything like that. the  surfaces 
need to be well  set.
 
the base:
 
take the 4  beams ( 2 x 12 inch x 3 inch x 1 inch and 18 inch x 3 inch  x 1 
inch and take the edges to 45 degree at both ends for all parts. for  this  the 
finishing nails are needed. so this is now the frame. now take  your 4 3 inch 
by 3 inch by 1 inch blocks and take the edges off to 45 degree.  this is the 
stability.
 
the legs now need a bit of attention for stability. bearing in mind this  
unit is not going to be as heavy as the original unit from the early 30s it  
won't need as much  weight.   set each leg up on your workbench  and  have the 
tops  facing you. and mark 1 inch from edge  and   measure and mark 3 inches 
down.. rotate the leg 90 degrees and  then do the same. with either a bandsaw, 
jig 
saw  or careful work with a  table saw, take the 2 areas marked up so all you 
have is a 1 and a half inch  squared block in the corner to take the weight. 
repeat this with all 4 legs. do  remember that  you  set each leg so that you 
have the blocks   front left and right and back left and right. therefore the 
working   position differs.
 
now when these legs are cut, place the legs into the corners of the frame  

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Tools

2006-12-18 Thread Lewisjalexander
hi there
 
before considering the options of tools you want to use with your  
compressor. you need to find out your rated CFM of the compressor as the air  
from the 
reciever  is set in differing capacities. 
 
your compressor won't effectively drive air tools if its low CFM  such  as 4 
cfm. it will only work for air nailers and tyre inflators or blow guns.  
besides that it won't do much more. well besides spraying car body work.
 
if your compressor is above 8 CFM you can drive many other tools like  impact 
wrenches, air chisels, drills, spot weld cutters, air sanders and  finishers, 
air cut off saws and more.
 
my workshop contains a plethora of air equipment as that is my main system  
for safe work. unless I need real power.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Tools

2006-12-18 Thread Lewisjalexander
CFM stands for cubic feet per minute compression.
 
with your compressor being old and a decent weighted tank you're safe to be  
able to run any pro air equipment. 
 
what do you want to do with it besides inflate and clean?
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Tools

2006-12-18 Thread Lewisjalexander
Air chisels are exactly as described. a small form factor air braker or  
JACK HAMMER. you can get many forms of chisel with a good quality machine.  
though I do warn you they are lethal in the wrong hands.
 
you can use them for chiseling concrete or masonary if you're a stone mason  
or anything like that, wood splitting etc and even cutting out welds from 
steel  frames with the right chisel and the knowledge.
 
they work on the principle of a  fan like system driving a shaft to a  plate 
with a recessed angle with a bearing inside causing the plate to push back  
and forth driving the power. some are different depending on the use.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] soaldering with a gun,

2006-12-15 Thread Lewisjalexander
I don't use a sponge when soldering and I do a lot of electronics work  
especially with computers. what I do is tin the tip now and again with a fresh  
bit 
of solder. when the iron gets a bit old I give the tip a polish when cold  
and it brings it back to new. the only time I ever need a sponge is when doing  
seem soldering.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] self propelleed lawn mower

2006-12-12 Thread Lewisjalexander
self propelled petrol mowers are designed with differing drive systems.  
depending on the make and model and its designed purpose.
 
as an example. a VICTA pro mulch 550SP features a strengthened belt to a  
gear wheel to drive the rear axel which can be set independent if it is called  
for. it is then sent to a pully drive on the engine which can be a straight V 
 belt or groove belt. some engines will have a compression plate mounted over 
the  flywheel to maintain alignment of the belt in high torque demands.
 
now the way self propelled systems work is fairly simple in general. you  
would have a trigger handle or bar on your frame which you squeeze or lock or  
even flick a switch in certain machines but that is a tech talk matter for  
another time.
 
when the handle is controlled, the guide cable which is inside a sheeth is  
pulled with a common linkage at the end. this then goes to a spring loaded  
bracket which forces pressure to the belt to drive it. the tension is 
adjustable  
depending on the design of the mower and its drive mechanism by means of a  
threaded end line to keep the connector cable in place. usually called a 
control  governer. 
 
so to repair the issue of the slipping belt. you would do one of two  things. 
get a replacement belt by taking out that belt but this is a last case  issue 
if the later issue does not solve it.
 
if the cover for maintenance is not at the top then you will either need to  
place the mower on two boxes to work underneeth it with the HT cable removed  
from the spark plug. remove the cover if under the machine and see what the  
condition of the belt is. you can feel for damage very easily by locking the  
drive handle with a towel or cloth or tape of some kind. now you can see if the 
 belt has stretched or the linkage has become detached. have a socket set 
handy  and a small pot of cleaning solution. mainly wd 40 or liquid paraffin. 
and 
clean  the pullies. if the belt is slack and the pully wheels are in their 
drive state  and not their slack state. if the belt is slack still then you may 
be able to  adjust the cable by changing the control gap. if this doesn't work 
then the belt  needs replacing and remounting with drive in its off position.
 
hope this helps.
 
be warned about servicing petrol equipment. drain the fuel out of the  engine 
if able to do so and detach the spark plug until you are ready to do a  start 
test. never tip the engine on side of the carbouretta or filter above the  
fuel tank if rotary as this pours oil into the filter and causes problems  
including the engine to flood with oil in the crank case and the piston 
chamber.  
if this happens get your wrench and slacken the 8 bolts where the spark plug is 
 situated known as the piston block cover.  turn the shaft or slowly draw  
the engine with the starter rope in your hand. nice and slow to move the 
piston. 
 this will sweep out some crap in the piston header. get a cloth and wipe 
around  the area including the valves, spark plug etc. then re attach the 
piston 
head  cover and make sure it's nice and tight and check the head gasket for 
damage  like splitting etc.
 
when you've fixed the problem of oil in the piston etc, access the filter  
which is usually resting next to the recoil starter and  wash it in petrol  or 
paraffin or blast it with compressed air. then re fit it after cleaning the  
filter casing to remove oil.  close the filter case etc and then re attach  the 
spark plug and reload fuel.
 
a good tip is to drain the engine of oil. if its a new batch in the engine  
drain it anyway and load it into a bucket or large bowl with a  filler tube  
with a cone to cover the oil outlet. this can be found near the blade or in 
some 
 cases or main cases on  the engine. tilt it steadily and let the oil drain  
out to a safe storage method  and move it out of the way.
 
for more servicing tips and advice or serious engine work in the UK please  
drop me an email.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] miniture power tools

2006-11-29 Thread Lewisjalexander
I agree with you tom to a degree with dremel tools in their tooling.  however 
if you are working with intricate materials, I would strongly recommend  
proxon tools for engraving, cutting, sanding etc. they are absolutely pro in  
design and great for use. I own a proxon system and its the bees nees
 
lol
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] miniture power tools

2006-11-29 Thread Lewisjalexander
probably a bit more expensive but they are professional craft tools. used  
for electronics, wood carving, sanding, cutting and more for modelling etc.  
they're the best tools to go for. though a bit expensive but more versatile 
than  
a dremel. in fact so much better. I still have a dremel and only use that for 
 rough work including deburring tubes and sharpening the odd blade or 
cleaning  out a piston pot.
 
dremel to be honest are crap
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: digital display readers:

2006-11-23 Thread Lewisjalexander
lol
 
well bearing in mind the workings of a digital readout display, there are  
several types with several formats of projection, colouring, etc so the  
information could be shown on different lines so the optical scanner point 
would  
have to refresh at 25.5 frames per second. therefore the system has to handle  
that with a converter from optical to data to speach. therefore the data chain  
of events has to be tight locked and calibrated. I can see many problems with  
this lkind of device. as an example I have a planer thicknesser with a 
computer  controlled rise and fall table and the LCD  will show multiple 
information.  as each LCD or  LED screen is a differing size it remains a 
problem for any 
 manufacturer.
 
lew


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Checking Engine Oil

2006-11-19 Thread Lewisjalexander
lets get this straight
 
if using a tube to check from fill point to surface of oil it does not give  
a true readout and I should know. not wishing to pee on anyone's flames here 
but  using a depth rod or dip Stick tells you your average oil load from the 
base  of the engine to point of fill requirement. you would need to find out 
this  anyway as sometimes engine oil can go off or become affected by water etc 
or  even to determine other issues like too much fuel mixing etc on certain 
engines.  your senses tell you more than you think they do.
 
a  petrol mower of mine is a big beast. its a ransomes autocertes. the  
engine on it is a briggs and stratton vanguard engine as an enhancement. the  
engine has an intake from fuel to the piston relay and the decompression 
chamber  
on it and it has been known on older vanguard engines that fuel can show in the 
 oil and cause cracking in the aluminium casing of the engine block and 
warping  of the piston head and shaft. also damage to the pivot seal and 
flywheel 
seal to  the magneto circuit. I'm thankful that my machine has not had that 
problem and I  always check the oil for  noticeable impurities and 
irregularities.
 
I will say this now and once. engine maintenance for blind and visually  
impaired persons is tricky and complicated if you don't know what you are doing 
 
and the specification of engines concerned. get to know the engine by feel,  
listen for obvious signs that are not normal and really inspect it before even  
servicing. there are courses for engine restoration work and are worth looking 
 at so to speak.
 
lew


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wood Splitters

2006-11-16 Thread Lewisjalexander
forgive me for this reference but I wish to mention this
 
you speak of wood splitters. the actual reference for such equipment are as  
follows:
 
Chainsaws: Petrol or electric units with a bar and chain for direct  cutting. 
used for felling, professional and semi professional trade use and home  log 
ripping
 
Splitting wedges: Anvil and razer sharp blade contact which is placed on  the 
log or tree and driven in with a sledge hammer
 
splitting axe / felling axe: used like a splitting wedge in the same manner  
but a direct tool
 
Auto splitter.
 
floor mounted or trolley mounted petrol or electric driven block with   auto 
puller plate to a splitting axe or sometimes a Circular saw blade.
 
please be aware that chainsaws and auto splitters are incredibly dangerous  
and require specialist knowledge and appropriate safety equipment. I train  
people how to use saws here in Wales and demonstrate the correct methods of use 
 
etc
 
lew


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Measuring inside diameters

2006-11-16 Thread Lewisjalexander
any bolts about 10 mm diameter thread are usually the best. get a long  shaft 
bolt for each side, 4 washers 1 top 1 bottom for each side. a good tip is  to 
use your bolt and with a hammer, hit the bolt once to use that as a punch for 
 your drill bit. drill over the diameter by 1 mill or so if this is to be 
mounted  on timber.
 
lew


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gasket sealer

2006-11-04 Thread Lewisjalexander
good tip for blown gaskets.
 
this is a perfect replacement. get a tube of silicon sealant. the kind of  
heavy duty mix you'd either use for calking boxes, air conditioning ducts etc.  
its in long tubes where you use a calking gun or mastic gun as we like to 
refer  to them here in the UK.
 
with this, remove the damaged gasket and then spread a line of silicon to  
the gasket head. let it go off for 1 minute and then place the component back 
in 
 place with the bolts where they can drop instantly in place. run your finger 
 round the edge to clean off the spill.
 
leave it a good while and it does the trick. I do this all the time with  
agriculteral gear and industrial engines with great success. and it lasts just  
as good
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quiet Mufflers for Small Engines

2006-11-04 Thread Lewisjalexander
mufflers or silencers as the correct term is held are specific to each  
engine because of mounting fixtures, threads and filtration design. the engine  
then needs to be calibrated to allow the pressure in the engine to be  
compensated but at the same time dispursing the sound  from the main canopy  of 
the 
engine assembly mainly taken from the exhaust and  carberetta  assemblies.
 
so if the engine is using one level of displacement then the muffler is  
compensating for it so that the engine does not starve of oxygen and fuel
 
with generators as specifically discussed, the silencer is designed for  each 
engine. if it is a honda or briggs and stratton engine then the silencers  
are calibrated to the engines pressure to consumption ratio.
 
as for emmersing a silencer in water it is  only designed for heavy  use 
engines which run constantly and have auto cut off like with petrol driven  air 
compressors etc where silencing the canopy is essential.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Trim

2006-10-30 Thread Lewisjalexander
trims are handy when its finishing off a project.
 
in my experiences I've purchased trims or even made wooden trims with a  
spindle moulder and ran the back through a grading machine to the point of it  
being thin enough to flex to a degree. using a  utility knife, score gently  
down 
in inch distances and use steam if you're going to bend the trim or veneer  
around the surface if it is curved or rounded, you can use high strength wood  
glues or micro nails which are my favourites at the moment. I use an air 
nailer  with a cartridge to load nail magazines in and its a beauty for 
finishing  
work.
 
a project involving veneer work took a while it was for a customer. it was  a 
solid oak  clarinet case. now bearing in mind it was two large blocks of  oak 
 originally. I'd split one block down to 3 sections of 1 inch thick  boards 
on my bandsaw and left the base as a full 3 inch block for  moulding.
 
taking a blade, I marked out places for where to hollow out for the  
instrument inserts, then ran the chainsaw to hollow out, then a multi tool for  
sanding and cleaning and then a micro carve chisel to  extend the keyways .  
after 
doing so, inset the hinges with a router for the main panel and locks,  clasps 
etc. then made the top section cutting the sides to fit with 45 degree  left 
and right hand fittings. then  feeding those same panels before  joining them 
through the router table to create a full 45 degree level on the  top panel to 
inset the top to the sides.
 
then panel firing each side with 3 micro nails for the most part.. after  
that it was quite a thing of the moulding to suit the top and bottom of the  
case. so went to the DIY superstore and bought about 3 metres of 3/4 round  
veneer 
and split it at 45 degree cuts top and bottom sections and then fired  them 
in with micro nails
 
sprayed the box with carnuba wax after 6 sanding grades to achieve the  
finish and a sanding resin applied.
 
what a beautiful job.
 
so some good tips.
 
if the item you're dealing with is rounded, either steam the affected areas  
of the veneer or trim  or you can make micro cuts into the veneer to allow  a 
bend. if its straight work, don't use nails unless the veneer or trim is  
fairly thick. use a good high bonding glue. then clamp it tight.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hi there. A new member and blind professional at your ser...

2006-10-26 Thread Lewisjalexander
thanks for your email and interest in my chainsaw work
 
I use some of the techniques which you describe  as well as a lot of  my own 
skills including using the front and back handles as  rotation sense  to work 
out the angle of the blade in terms of a cut or sculpt, running the main  
handle on its own for the stihl ms170 for skinning, running the back handle to  
control feeding the blade and moving it back  and forth to gauge  penetration 
of 
the blade. at no time do I have any contact with the blade arm.  when carving 
I always use the judgement of the trigger being directly inline  with the bar 
of the machine. so its a good guideline and listening to the sound  of the 
cut to the amount I'm cutting in or through.
 
for more tips please get in touch and I'll post more
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dipsticks

2006-10-26 Thread Lewisjalexander
A suggestion I have for this is a long thin section of metal say about 2  
mill thick by 4 mill wide by about 12 inch long. start marking at certain 
points  
say every half inch with a blade taking a cut into the metal of a few 
strikes.  then using a wine bottle cork drill into it say about 3 mill diameter 
through  the center and slide the rod through it so you can use the foot of the 
cork as a  stopper above the cap of the compresser chamber.
 
I use this method all the time with my tiger compressor. its a heavy duty  
machine and a real beast. I always keep the oil bottle next to the machine at  
all times and my hoses on a rack next to the compressor and my air tools on a  
service board on the wall above the motor of the compressor.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] The experience

2006-10-26 Thread Lewisjalexander
the thing about servicing tractor mowers is its not a straight forward job  
as I've done so with a few machines in the past either for the field or on  
restoration jobs for selling machines  from auctions etc.
 
from servicing the engine itself to stripping off the cutter deck to  
sharpening and balancing blades to whatever it can be a challenge.
 
I had the pleasure of restoring a ransomes autocertees  which was a  beauty 
of a ride on cylinder machine. it had 2 24 inch 12 blade cylinders with  drives 
on each one directly set to the master engine, a gear to the front wheel  
drive and stearing to the back. and put it this way it was a machine left for  
dead. the engine had to be stripped top to bottom and the recoil starter had to 
 
be rebuilt from top to bottom, all bodywork had to be sand blasted or acid  
stripped and any damage filled with welding mix.  when it came to dealing  with 
the drive gear for the machine it was incredibly difficult dismounting the  
wheel rig as the bolts were left hand UNF  threads. bad enough when they  were 
saezed. so had to get the oxy acetylene and warm the rods up and slacken  with 
a hammer tap and a heavy wrench set.
 
gearing came out and  was re oiled and greased up, casing blasted out  and 
reset. nuts brushed with acid to strip the rust and bolt heads. left for  about 
10 mins. good as new.
 
next job was the front blade rig, took the cylinders for re grinding.   the 
guy I took them too was the guy who started me off with my merry addiction  to 
all things petrol lol. he literally hugged these cylinders and said what the  
BLEEP are you doing with two ransomes auto cylinders? told him it was a  
restoration from an auction and I'm building her all the way from start to  
finish.
 
so blades were done, reground the bar ways, set the rollers on the lathe  for 
balancing and cleaning, jet feeding and oiling, rebuilt the bodies, mounted  
the blades, set the gear shafts, rebuilt the system and installed the engine  
which took about 2 hours to bring to life after grinding the piston  chamber  
very gently, re seating the valves and cleaning the piston block  out and 
mounting new piston seals on the piston head and balancing the crank.  put a 
new 
magneto assembly on it and brought her back to life. gave her a re  spray and 
drove her on a friend of mine's private land and put her to the test  on the 
field.
 
days later had sold it
 
so yes it is possible for a blind guy like you or I to do something this  
grand and complex.
 
just don't put your finger on the HT lead and clout the recoil start to  test 
the magnetos unless you're 100% comfortable with the idea of getting a  shock 
up your left arm.
 
lew


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Welding

2006-10-24 Thread Lewisjalexander
excuse me?
 
I did not wish to cause any form of offense on any part there of. I have  
advertised myself within the region of speciality as a skilled blind technician 
 
and tooling guy. I demonstrate my skills here in the united kingdom as a  
technician and machinist including lathe operations, tooling work and 
specialist  
work including welding. 
 
I feel a little upset by reading this email and feel shocked that someone  
would think that way of me.
 
yours with appologies 
 
lewis alexander
blind machinist, tooling specialist and demonstrator for Stihl chainsaws  and 
record power woodworking machinery
 
United Kingdom


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[BlindHandyMan] Chainsaw carving project: the eagle.

2006-10-24 Thread Lewisjalexander
hello all. here's a good project I'm working on.
 
but first lets just take a moment to calm the nerves of the sceptical and  
those who get nervous of heavy duty machinery lol
 
the chainsaw though incredibly powerful and considered dangerous is  actually 
a sleak and elegant machine. I use 3 different machines for my carving  and 
machining work. All of course are made by Stihl. following models: MS170, MS  
250CQT and MS880 pro.
 
as the chainsaw is in some models a bulky machine it's important to get  used 
to the machine. just like a woman, handle with care and respect the tool at  
all times.
 
if you're carving for the first time start off with a small saw rig like  the 
ms170 or husquvarna 135 models. using anything from 12 inch to 15 inch but a  
12 inch is perfect for use.
 
 
 
enough of the discussion. lets get down to business.
 
First off you're gonna need a hefty log. say about 30 inches girth by about  
45 inches height.. with a long bar chainsaw take off the top for a clean cut  
just to level it and then go around the edges of the top and cut  angled  
chunks off. not too big now.. this is to work with the surface. now the bark is 
 a 
big consideration here to some level so from this point use a smaller saw to  
plane off the bark nice and gently by running the bar about half an inch in 
from  the edge and run down it. let it just plane the surface gently. please 
note the  chainsaws are your only tools here.
 
next thing is this.  from the base of the log go about a third up and  with 
the saw running about 3/4 power on the throttle run the bar to mark out  your 
drop line for the bar to stop at. you can cut in at least about 3 inches or  so 
all around the bark. this is a little bit delicate so turn the log side on  
and from the top end run the saw over and rotate the log slowly. from there it  
starts to get a bit easier. Using a mid range saw, my ms250CQT and a rough  
chain, I'm gouging out the base with the saw rotated to the side. remembering  
that of course that little girl is able to handle different positions not just 
 straight down.  so now you're ready to rough out. from the slit point  
you've made, position the saw to carge and rough out. this is a good bit but  
your 
positioning of the saw depends on what machine you use, its weight and its  
power. a bit to deep on the angle can force the saw to run away at half  
throttle
 
now you're roughing out the base where the feet will stand proud. rough out  
at least 5 inches or so around the cercumferance of the log from the split  
point. this will give you adiquate working conditions for the machine.
 
you can now rough up the log slowly but it helps to sometimes do a down  cut. 
. start moulding with the bar on your midsize macchine and away you go.  keep 
going to the foot line and rough out more around the surface and then at  the 
back assuming you've decided where your back will face of the eagle now take  
out just abit more at the back so you square off .
 
now at the back where you're going to take out sit the log now so its in  its 
vertical position andtake your chainsaw and cut about a third from the back  
of the log in and go down about cut down about a third down and from there 
draw  the saw out and come from the side and cut away that piece. that's now  
removeable stock.
 
part two to show if interested
 
lew


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[BlindHandyMan] Hi there. A new member and blind professional at your service :)

2006-10-23 Thread Lewisjalexander
Hello all
 
My name's Lewis
 
I'm 22 years old and am a specialist in woodwork here in the United  kingdom. 
I also deal in fabrications and engine repairs mainly for aggricultural  
tools including lawnmowers, chainsaws and the likes of.
 
I teach  general and specific subjects on requests and am willing to  talk 
people on here through specific things. whether it be servicing a lawnmower  
engine or using the right tool for the job or even recommendations for tooling  
etc.
 
I deal with welding work as well as a fabricator in the sculpturing side of  
things and use some rather powerful equipment including blast cutters, stihl  
saws etc and gas welders as well as my personal favourite my mig, tig and arc  
welders. 
 
if you want to learn to use certain tools you never thought of using, get  in 
touch.
 
you'll think I'm mad but anyone can use a welder with the right advice, use  
a chainsaw etc. I'm the proud owner of 3 chainsaws for carving, splitting,  
skinning and felling work. and I do all this with  feel in mind. 
 
I am completely blind and have been for a long time.
 
anyhow if you want to ask anything please feel free to contact me any time  
and I'll be able to help
 
yours
 
lewis Alexander
 
EMAIL: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) 
MSN Messenger contact: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
(mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) 
SKYPE (demonstrations, live chat and more: theblindmusician2006
Mobile number: 07857 352828
 
If you say you can't do it then in your heart and mind you can. so don't  let 
anyone stop you.


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