from:"rj"

I don't like using a gas grill, but do use it with a glove  that is made for 
heat. It allows me to locate the food that I am cooking. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Claudia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 6:25 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!

  Hi,

  The honey  I, being both totally blind, want to know how easy or difficult 
it is to use a gas outdoor grill?
  We're both pretty confident cookds, but something just scares me about the 
whole gas thing!
  I guess I'd like to know how doable it is?
  Thanks.

  Claudia

  Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
  Skype: claudiadr10

  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
database 5408 (20100830) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking with Gloves - Was: Using Gas Grill!

I believe you can find the gloves at Bath and be on
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brice Mijares 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 10:09 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking with Gloves - Was: Using Gas Grill!



  I'd use silicone gloves with individual fingers if I \could find a pair, 
  but so far, I've only found the mitten type. This way, the gloves could be 
  washed in soapy water.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Gallik billgal...@centurytel.net
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 7:00 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking with Gloves - Was: Using Gas Grill!

   Bryce writes:
   Have a pair of gloves with at least leather finger tips on them if you 
   plan
   to cook anything in foil. this way you can use your hands to turn what 
   ever
   in the foil.
  
   That, Mr. Bryce, is a great idea!!! How comes I never thunk of that!?!?!?
  
   
   Holland's Person, Bill
   E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
   - The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese!
  
  
  
  
   __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus 
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   The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
  
   http://www.eset.com
  
   



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] skunk spray

Here is the best spray I located. It was, quick to get rid of the smell. The 
only problem is it may or may not fade cloth. It does a good job of animals, 
cement and clothes.
1 16 ounce bottle Peroxide
1 small box of baking soda
2 tablespoons of liquid soap. (lemon if you have it)
1 gallon of water.
Mix and use immediately. do not cap or save.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: bhm 
  Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 7:06 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] skunk spray



  What is the best way to clean up a skunk spray and can clothing be cleaned? I 
just got a call from my daughter her husband got sprayed this morning taking 
out the trash. The skunk was along side of his porch, this is in the middle of 
town. Anyway he changed his clothes but had to go to work with his new 
fragrance. He works in a factory that has a very strict point system. If you 
are late, call off you get some points and ten points in a year you are fired. 
Anyway my daughter is very upset with the odor in her home. 
  ---
  Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational 
with a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the 
blind.
  http://www.LennyMcHugh.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] skunk spray

I am one that swears by it. For I use it on my dog guide when we first moved to 
the country and he got his first and last encounter with a skunk. Plus I use it 
on my cement pad a couple times. Works very well and quick
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joy Cyr 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 8:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] skunk spray

  When my dog got sprayed my vet recommended a mixture of two cups hydrogen 
peroxide (the regular three percent, not the one used for bleaching), a half 
cup of baking soda, and two tablespoons of dish soap. Unfortunately I got this 
invaluable advice the next morning since the little dear had the bad taste to 
get sprayed in the middle of the night, however, I have spoken with many people 
who used a version of this since and they swear by it. I don't see why it 
couldn't be applied to clothing or anything else that was touched by the spray.

  My reflex was to grab for the baking soda which did take care of the bit that 
had dripped on the carpet.

  However, even better I have since discovered Arm  Hammer's Washing Soda! It 
isn't the same as baking soda, and its getting harder to find but is often 
available in the laundry section of the store. Its a large box of powder and 
there is absolutely nothing like it for dealing with unpleasant odours. You can 
use it in many different ways, not just in the washer. It eats protein so can't 
be used on wool that's the only thing to be aware of when using it. A few vital 
boxes helped me get through a very bad (long) cat illness a year or so ago when 
he wasn't able to control his bladder, ... and if you've smelt cat urine then 
you can appreciate how special Washing Soda really is!

  Best of luck to your daughter, ... not an ideal way to start the week!

  Joy 

  Please take a few moments to browse and enjoy
  my original artwork at:
  www.tigerfeathers.ca

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Description of grill gloves

Grill Glove - The Ultimate Grilling Gloves

Make your Cookouts Easier and More Fun with the Grill Glove!

Buy One Grill Glove  Get One Free!

Grill glove product 2
Introducing the fabulous Grill Glove!  Do you love to grill, but tired of 
having your efforts frustrated by clumsy tongs and rusty utensils?   The handy,
heat resistant Grill Glove puts the cooking power of the grill in the palm of 
your hand.  The Grill Glove is made of 100% food grade silicone so you can
grab your grub right off the grill.  Flip hamburgers, hot dogs and steaks with 
ease.  The Grill Glove is designed to give you the perfect grip for every
flip. 

Use the Grill Glove For:
. Skewers  Kabobs
. Hamburgers, Hot Dogs,  Steaks
. Baked Potatoes or Corn on the Cob
. Flip Entire Roasts, Briskets. Even a Rack of Ribs

The Grill Glove resist temperature up to 500 degrees, making it perfect for 
handling hot baked potatoes and more.  The built in flame deflection technology
doubles the surface area...protecting your hand longer.  And...it's waterproof! 
 You can grab an egg right out of a boiling pot of water and not feel a
thing!  It will be super for your next lobster boil!

Grill glove product
The Grill Glove Features:
. Waterproof
. 100% Food Grade Silicone
. Flame Deflection Technology
. 5 Finger Design for Easy Gripping

Regular, old fashioned oven mitts burn, char and get crusty.  But the Grill 
Glove resists high temperatures, so even if you touch the flames, you won't
get burned.  And it's dishwasher safe, too!

The Grill Glove Benefits:
. More Sanitary
. Dishwasher Safe
. Resists Temperatures Up to 500ºF
. Protects Longer Than Standard Oven Mitts


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking with Gloves - Was: Using Gas Grill!

Brice,

Here is a web site if interested.

http://www.grillgloves.net/index.html
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brice Mijares 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 2:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking with Gloves - Was: Using Gas Grill!



  Thanks RJ, I'll have my wife check the next time she there.
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ rjf...@verizon.net
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 8:28 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking with Gloves - Was: Using Gas Grill!

  I believe you can find the gloves at Bath and be on
   - Original Message - 
   From: Brice Mijares
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 10:09 AM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking with Gloves - Was: Using Gas Grill!
  
  
  
   I'd use silicone gloves with individual fingers if I \could find a pair,
   but so far, I've only found the mitten type. This way, the gloves could 
   be
   washed in soapy water.
   - Original Message - 
   From: Bill Gallik billgal...@centurytel.net
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 7:00 AM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cooking with Gloves - Was: Using Gas Grill!
  
Bryce writes:
Have a pair of gloves with at least leather finger tips on them if you
plan
to cook anything in foil. this way you can use your hands to turn what
ever
in the foil.
   
That, Mr. Bryce, is a great idea!!! How comes I never thunk of 
   that!?!?!?
   

Holland's Person, Bill
E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
- The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the 
   cheese!
   
   
   
   
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signature database 5409 (20100830) __
   
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
   
http://www.eset.com
   
   
  
  
  
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
  
   __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus 
   signature database 5409 (20100830) __
  
   The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
  
   http://www.eset.com
  
   



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage

2010-08-05 Thread RJ

I am afraid some one is going to have to physically get on the roof to check it 
out. It could be a# of things. The cap may have blown off the vent fan, the 
flashing may have sprung a leak, or the shingles might have been damaged or 
deteriorated. If it is the cap, install a cap vent. Flashing might need roof 
cement around it. Or a shingle might just need replaced.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 11:03 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage

  Good Morning,

  I need some input on the condition of my roof and what my next step should
  be. There is a hole in the ceiling of an upstairs bedroom that is from a
  water leak. I have been up on a short ladder and checked this part out for
  myself. It is about the size of a salad plate. I know I have to stop the
  water from coming in, but I am afraid to get up on the second story roof to
  investigate. Both afraid of falling, and of doing more damage to the roof
  as I know nothing about roofing.

  My mother looks up into this hole and goes on about being able to see the
  sky. Her answer to the problem is that I must get some man to fix it, so
  she is not very helpful as a source for more sighted details.

  My husband has a theory about this leak that I am not certain about. I may
  have mentioned that home repair is not his forte? Anyway, he insists that
  the light my mother is seeing is coming through the vent. He is referring
  to the round vent things that have a fan in them for ventilation. He claims
  that the water is coming in through the vent and is normal. He tells me
  that the other fan has a plastic pan under it to catch the water and that
  this is why it does not have a similar leek. The water that leeks through
  seems like a lot of water to be expected to just evaporate out of a
  collection pan. My husband is suggesting that we just need to put in some
  more insulation and repair the sheet rock.

  I am willing to get up in the attic and try to access this area to get more
  information. I am just not certain that any repairs from that side will
  really do any good, or of any safety precautions I need to take. 

  Such as perhaps turning off the electricity at the breaker box to avoid any
  possible live wires? Your input will be greatly appreciated. It will cause
  a fight with my husband if I go ahead and call in a roofer after he has said
  we do not need one. I am willing to fight with him, but I prefer not to
  whenever possible. I would love for him to be right about this.

  Jennifer\

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] ceiling tile replacement

2010-08-05 Thread RJ

If they are in good shape, leave them. But when I did have rental, if a few  
blocks  needed replaced, I would replace them all. I found the life of the tile 
before I wanted to replace them was about 6 to 10 years. Never felt it was 
worth painting them.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: mark 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 12:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] ceiling tile replacement



  hey gang have a property for rent and just showed the place a few mins ago
  the person looking at the place asked me about the last replacement of the 
ceiling tiles
  he stated there is a expiration date on the tiles and it is code they be 
replaced on this date for deteareation reasons well this is not something I 
ever heard of so he pulled a tile out of the grid and sure enough there is a 
date from 5 years ago does anyone know of this and do I really need to replace 
my tiles thanks alot Mark

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] pvc pipe

2010-08-05 Thread RJ

Use a little finger nail polish and put a dab  on one side of the  pipe. Let it 
dry and sand it down if the dot of polish is to heavy and to hard to pull 
apart. Use can use the PVC glue, but it is to hard to control.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: bhm 
  Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2010 1:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] pvc pipe



  Ok, I haven't done anything with magic in many years. Most of the illusions I 
use to use I can no longer perform. Looking through a magic catalog there was 
one illusion that I could use on limited occasions. I purchased it for a church 
picnic. Anyway the main part of this thing is two pieces of pvc pipe with a 
coupler in the middle. It is glued to one piece of the pipe and the other is 
meant to easily be pulled apart. Practicing it the pipe comes apart a little 
too easy. any suggestions on how to make a tad harder to come apart. When 
holding it the one end actually fell out. Would not go well during a kids 
message. The illusion is a pom pom prayer stick. I also do not want anything 
that will become sticky and get on the colored pom poms. Since I am only doing 
this one illusion for a special message there is no recovery from a mess up. I 
on occasion when when something went wrong I had two cover lines, Beam me up 
Scotty or Without guys like me David Copperfield would not have a job.
  ---
  Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational 
with a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the 
blind.
  http://www.LennyMcHugh.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

2010-08-02 Thread RJ

Dan,

I had one of these supported in this manor in one of my apartments, And it is 
still there after 90 plus years.
RJ
P. S. If I  was remodeling and still was in the rental business, I most likely 
would have removed it.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:13 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney



  We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen. One issue 
  we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the 
  basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and 
  roof, obviously. The hot water tank that had been venting through that 
  chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more.

  Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over 
  possibly since it was built, 80 years ago. However, the first contractor 
  we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney 
  to just get it out of the way. I told him that I had thought of it, but 
  didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney. I 
  mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy. This contractor implied 
  that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper 
  part from the ceiling joists.

  Does this sound realistic?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue

2010-08-02 Thread RJ

Had the same problem with my 4 cycle mower, got some spray carbonate cleaner 
and got the thing running. sprayed the cleaner in the filter. The mower runs 
like a new one. Believe the float was stuck.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Engebretson Jr. 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:26 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue

  My mower stops running after a few minutes of mowing unless I open the 
throttle while I prime it with the little rubber bulb on the side of the carb. 
This must be a tell tale sign of a specific issue... anyone know what it is? 
thermometer? clogged primer? need a new motor?

  thanks,
  david

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

I used pex pipe and shark fittings. The pipe is flexible and the fittings just 
slide on. The fittings will work on Pesx, PVC, or copper pipes and the great 
part is no cleaner, glue, solder and easy to slide off with a pair of pliers or 
a tool that cost less than a buck. The pipe and fittings are rated at 200 P S I
  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins 
  To: Blindhandyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:39 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet



  I think I remember a while ago RJ put an outside faucet in
  and used some type easy connector to do it? Could whoever
  did this, and again, I think it was RJ, describe what you
  purchased to do the job?

  thanks
  Al



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

PVC and copper last for several years. It is a huge price different that has 
one using plastic. But there are water conditions that may play a part in the 
pipe one uses Plus the ease one can install plastic over copper if one is using 
sweat joints..
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Blaine Deutscher 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 2:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

  does copper piping have a diffferent taste to the water then plastic pipes 
  do? I find for myself that if you have a house with an older version of taps 
  that the water doesn't taste as good compared to the new taps that are being 
  installed in housing today. I know though that the plastic pipes in cold 
  weather does burst but a lot of apartments are putting plastic piping in the 
  house under sinks and what not because the other stuff is starting to rust. 
  Does anyone know the life expectincy of copper piping verses PVC pipe? Would 
  be interesting to learn how much longer it lasts and if it's the same. Talk 
  to you later.

  Blaine
  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan Paganelli
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:51 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

  Yeah, we had the hole house re piped 2 or 3 years back. The old PCV pipes
  were starting to burst and crack. As I understood it, the company who
  manufactured the pipe went out of business about 20 years ago or so said the
  plumber who did the job for us. Of course we changed everything over to
  copper but never even thought of the faucets to the outside but crawling
  under the house and having a look-see showed me it wouldn't be any big deal
  to change it myself. Where the plastic lines connect to the copper, the
  fittings are copper and there is a plastic screw fitting on the end of the
  plastic pipe so all that would need to be done is just to unscrew the
  plastic screw fitting on the plastic stuff and just replace it with copper
  fittings and pipe. I might have to use a torch to put the fittings on the
  copper lines but that can be done. Well, if I get the guy next door to do
  it for me. He did his house too.

  Alan

  Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
  There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
  the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

  The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
  available upon request.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 10:29 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   Alan,

   Thanks for your thoughts. I have copper running throughout including to
   outside.Hoping there are other options other than gluing faucet to Pex as
   that part will be in the wall and not easy to fix if a leak occurs.

   Al
   -Original Message-
   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:11 PM
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   I just changed my outside water faucets a few months back. Their made of
   some kind of plastic now and they just glue in place onto Pex pipe. The
   job
   took about 5 minutes. We have PVC pipe to the outside faucets. I used a
   hacksaw to cut off the old brass ones, cleaned up the end of the pipe and
   then found my plastic pipe cutter so the other one went even quicker.

   HTH

   Alan

   Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
   There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
   the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

   The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
   available upon request.

   - Original Message -
   From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:52 AM
   Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

RJ,

Thanks. So to make sure I understand this here is my current and
   proposed
situation.

I have an old faucet mounded on the bottom row of siding on the outside
   of
my house. It is threaded on to a standard fitting that was soldered to
standard half inch copper pipe. Fortunately, there is a shut off in the
basement for this run. I want to relocate this to the back side of the
house as we are getting new siding put on and I want to extend the deck
   in
conjunction with this project. Of course you can guess that the water
outlet
is right where the deck board will bo against the house. Anyway, if I
understand you correctly above I can simply get a new faucet, length of
Pex,
and a shark bite fitting

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

If you use shark fitting, you don't have to worry about sweating joints. Or one 
could always use the compressed fittings. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan Paganelli 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:51 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

  Yeah, we had the hole house re piped 2 or 3 years back. The old PCV pipes 
  were starting to burst and crack. As I understood it, the company who 
  manufactured the pipe went out of business about 20 years ago or so said the 
  plumber who did the job for us. Of course we changed everything over to 
  copper but never even thought of the faucets to the outside but crawling 
  under the house and having a look-see showed me it wouldn't be any big deal 
  to change it myself. Where the plastic lines connect to the copper, the 
  fittings are copper and there is a plastic screw fitting on the end of the 
  plastic pipe so all that would need to be done is just to unscrew the 
  plastic screw fitting on the plastic stuff and just replace it with copper 
  fittings and pipe. I might have to use a torch to put the fittings on the 
  copper lines but that can be done. Well, if I get the guy next door to do 
  it for me. He did his house too.

  Alan

  Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
  There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
  the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

  The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
  available upon request.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 10:29 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   Alan,

   Thanks for your thoughts. I have copper running throughout including to
   outside.Hoping there are other options other than gluing faucet to Pex as
   that part will be in the wall and not easy to fix if a leak occurs.

   Al
   -Original Message-
   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:11 PM
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   I just changed my outside water faucets a few months back. Their made of
   some kind of plastic now and they just glue in place onto Pex pipe. The
   job
   took about 5 minutes. We have PVC pipe to the outside faucets. I used a
   hacksaw to cut off the old brass ones, cleaned up the end of the pipe and
   then found my plastic pipe cutter so the other one went even quicker.

   HTH

   Alan

   Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
   There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
   the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

   The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
   available upon request.

   - Original Message -
   From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:52 AM
   Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

RJ,

Thanks. So to make sure I understand this here is my current and
   proposed
situation.

I have an old faucet mounded on the bottom row of siding on the outside
   of
my house. It is threaded on to a standard fitting that was soldered to
standard half inch copper pipe. Fortunately, there is a shut off in the
basement for this run. I want to relocate this to the back side of the
house as we are getting new siding put on and I want to extend the deck
   in
conjunction with this project. Of course you can guess that the water
outlet
is right where the deck board will bo against the house. Anyway, if I
understand you correctly above I can simply get a new faucet, length of
Pex,
and a shark bite fitting? In your case, did the faucet come pre
   connected
to
the length of Pex or does it simply slide on?-Original Message-

thanks,
Al

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of RJ
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:52 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

I used pex pipe and shark fittings. The pipe is flexible and the
   fittings
just slide on. The fittings will work on Pesx, PVC, or copper pipes and
the
great part is no cleaner, glue, solder and easy to slide off with a 
   pair
of
pliers or a tool that cost less than a buck. The pipe and fittings are
rated
at 200 P S I
- Original Message -
From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
To: Blindhandyman
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:39 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

I think I

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

What I did, was to put a galvanized nipple in the wall and used the pex pipe to 
the  outlet to the nipple. Just don't like any thing except metal in the walls. 
They claim the pex pipe is every bit as good as copper, but haven't use it long 
enough to say if it is or isn't.
RJ

  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:29 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

  Alan,

  Thanks for your thoughts. I have copper running throughout including to
  outside.Hoping there are other options other than gluing faucet to Pex as
  that part will be in the wall and not easy to fix if a leak occurs.

  Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:11 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

  I just changed my outside water faucets a few months back. Their made of
  some kind of plastic now and they just glue in place onto Pex pipe. The
  job
  took about 5 minutes. We have PVC pipe to the outside faucets. I used a
  hacksaw to cut off the old brass ones, cleaned up the end of the pipe and
  then found my plastic pipe cutter so the other one went even quicker.

  HTH

  Alan

  Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
  There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
  the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

  The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
  available upon request.

  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:52 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   RJ,

   Thanks. So to make sure I understand this here is my current and
  proposed
   situation.

   I have an old faucet mounded on the bottom row of siding on the outside
  of
   my house. It is threaded on to a standard fitting that was soldered to
   standard half inch copper pipe. Fortunately, there is a shut off in the
   basement for this run. I want to relocate this to the back side of the
   house as we are getting new siding put on and I want to extend the deck
  in
   conjunction with this project. Of course you can guess that the water
   outlet
   is right where the deck board will bo against the house. Anyway, if I
   understand you correctly above I can simply get a new faucet, length of
   Pex,
   and a shark bite fitting? In your case, did the faucet come pre
  connected
   to
   the length of Pex or does it simply slide on?-Original Message-

   thanks,
   Al

   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
   Behalf Of RJ
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:52 AM
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   I used pex pipe and shark fittings. The pipe is flexible and the
  fittings
   just slide on. The fittings will work on Pesx, PVC, or copper pipes and
   the
   great part is no cleaner, glue, solder and easy to slide off with a pair
   of
   pliers or a tool that cost less than a buck. The pipe and fittings are
   rated
   at 200 P S I
   - Original Message -
   From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
   To: Blindhandyman
   Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:39 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   I think I remember a while ago RJ put an outside faucet in
   and used some type easy connector to do it? Could whoever
   did this, and again, I think it was RJ, describe what you
   purchased to do the job?

   thanks
   Al

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

   Send any questions regarding list management to:
   blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
   To listen to the show archives go to link

  http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p
  agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
   Or
   ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
   http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

If I am understanding you right. What I would do is cut the copper a head of 
the shut off in the basement. Get a shark bit coupling or even a compression 
fitting and hook my pex pipe to the copper inside the house and run the outside 
connection to where I would want it.  I would  use a short nipple into the 
basement and a half nut to tighten the faucet and nipple so the faucet won't 
move. That is how I have mine set up. Or if the copper is long enough that the 
present outside faucet is connected to You could cut the copper so it will 
reach a couple floor   joists and use a couple pipe saddles or straps to hold 
the outside faucet in place. Than there are to ways to go. Use a couple 90 
compression fitting or shark bites to hook the two pipes together. For the 
compression and shark bit fittings will work both on Pex, or copper. It will 
even work with P V C.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 12:52 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet



  RJ,

  Thanks. So to make sure I understand this here is my current and proposed
  situation.

  I have an old faucet mounded on the bottom row of siding on the outside of
  my house. It is threaded on to a standard fitting that was soldered to
  standard half inch copper pipe. Fortunately, there is a shut off in the
  basement for this run. I want to relocate this to the back side of the
  house as we are getting new siding put on and I want to extend the deck in
  conjunction with this project. Of course you can guess that the water outlet
  is right where the deck board will bo against the house. Anyway, if I
  understand you correctly above I can simply get a new faucet, length of Pex,
  and a shark bite fitting? In your case, did the faucet come pre connected to
  the length of Pex or does it simply slide on?-Original Message-

  thanks,
  Al

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
  Behalf Of RJ
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:52 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

  I used pex pipe and shark fittings. The pipe is flexible and the fittings
  just slide on. The fittings will work on Pesx, PVC, or copper pipes and the
  great part is no cleaner, glue, solder and easy to slide off with a pair of
  pliers or a tool that cost less than a buck. The pipe and fittings are rated
  at 200 P S I
  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
  To: Blindhandyman
  Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:39 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

  I think I remember a while ago RJ put an outside faucet in
  and used some type easy connector to do it? Could whoever
  did this, and again, I think it was RJ, describe what you
  purchased to do the job?

  thanks
  Al

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

You must have a lot of chemicals in your water. Time to change over to the P V 
C or Peg pipes.
smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: Spiro 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 3:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

  our copper is developing pinholes. Had to have the 4th stretch replaced 
  now.
  1957 home.
  We have flex line to the toilets and my dog has stopped trying to drink 
  from there.

  On Thu, 29 Jul 2010, Blaine Deutscher wrote:

   does copper piping have a diffferent taste to the water then plastic pipes
   do? I find for myself that if you have a house with an older version of taps
   that the water doesn't taste as good compared to the new taps that are being
   installed in housing today. I know though that the plastic pipes in cold
   weather does burst but a lot of apartments are putting plastic piping in the
   house under sinks and what not because the other stuff is starting to rust.
   Does anyone know the life expectincy of copper piping verses PVC pipe? Would
   be interesting to learn how much longer it lasts and if it's the same. Talk
   to you later.

   Blaine
   - Original Message -
   From: Alan Paganelli
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:51 AM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   Yeah, we had the hole house re piped 2 or 3 years back. The old PCV pipes
   were starting to burst and crack. As I understood it, the company who
   manufactured the pipe went out of business about 20 years ago or so said the
   plumber who did the job for us. Of course we changed everything over to
   copper but never even thought of the faucets to the outside but crawling
   under the house and having a look-see showed me it wouldn't be any big deal
   to change it myself. Where the plastic lines connect to the copper, the
   fittings are copper and there is a plastic screw fitting on the end of the
   plastic pipe so all that would need to be done is just to unscrew the
   plastic screw fitting on the plastic stuff and just replace it with copper
   fittings and pipe. I might have to use a torch to put the fittings on the
   copper lines but that can be done. Well, if I get the guy next door to do
   it for me. He did his house too.

   Alan

   Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
   There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
   the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

   The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
   available upon request.

   - Original Message -
   From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 10:29 AM
   Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   Alan,

   Thanks for your thoughts. I have copper running throughout including to
   outside.Hoping there are other options other than gluing faucet to Pex as
   that part will be in the wall and not easy to fix if a leak occurs.

   Al
   -Original Message-
   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:11 PM
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   I just changed my outside water faucets a few months back. Their made of
   some kind of plastic now and they just glue in place onto Pex pipe. The
   job
   took about 5 minutes. We have PVC pipe to the outside faucets. I used a
   hacksaw to cut off the old brass ones, cleaned up the end of the pipe and
   then found my plastic pipe cutter so the other one went even quicker.

   HTH

   Alan

   Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
   There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
   the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

   The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
   available upon request.

   - Original Message -
   From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:52 AM
   Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   RJ,

   Thanks. So to make sure I understand this here is my current and
   proposed
   situation.

   I have an old faucet mounded on the bottom row of siding on the outside
   of
   my house. It is threaded on to a standard fitting that was soldered to
   standard half inch copper pipe. Fortunately, there is a shut off in the
   basement for this run. I want to relocate this to the back side of the
   house as we are getting new siding put on and I want to extend the deck
   in
   conjunction with this project. Of course you can guess that the water
   outlet
   is right where the deck board will bo against the house. Anyway, if I
   understand

[BlindHandyMan] Copper/pex pipe comparison

http://www.plumbingnetworks.com/info/pex-copper/
There are different fitting that can be used on pex pipe.


xof PEX Piping and Copper Piping

If you are like the rest of us non-plumbers, then there is a good chance 
that you don't know which plumbing pipe is better. You may not even know 
what a PEX pipe is. Relax: Not many of us do. We're not plumbers, but maybe 
it's time that increase our basic knowledge so that we know what we are 
getting and whether it is something we truly want. Once you know the basics, 
you'll feel more comfortable to find a plumber to help you with your piping 
needs.

Now you're probably wondering what PEX piping is. Well, it is cross-linked 
polyethylene pipe. After going through several processes, the material 
becomes durable for extreme temperatures (hot or cold), creep deformation 
which happens from long-term exposure to stress, and chemical attack from 
acids, alkalies and the like. All of this makes PEX an excellent piping 
substance for hot and cold water systems, especially since PEX is flexible 
and well adapted for temperatures below freezing all the way up to 200° 
Fahrenheit.

As mentioned above, PEX is a good plumbing material because it is flexible 
and easy for plumbers to install. PEX is also resistant to breaks in cold 
weather and has fewer joints, bringing your costs down.

Since copper piping has been around for decades, we know that the metal is 
durable and flexible, making it easy to install - especially compared to 
iron pipes. Copper piping also provides a biostatic atmosphere, making it 
difficult for bacteria to grow inside of it, which is an important health 
consideration.

Copper also resists corrosion and is unaffected by ultraviolet rays, which 
means it can be used for outside needs. This is unlike PEX pipes, which are 
affected by ultraviolet rays and therefore should not be used outside. 
However, copper can corrode due to the pH of the water if it is too acidic 
or too basic for the pipes. But just because it corrodes doesn't mean that 
the water is bad for you. Try to think of it like this: the Pacific 
Northwest region of the US and, of course, Canada, has some of the best 
drinking water in the world, but that very same water has a corrosive effect 
on the pipes.

So the choice between PEX and copper is solely yours, but keep in mind a few 
of the advantages and disadvantages of each system before you decide.

Some Advantages of PEX Are:
1. Adaptable and easy-to-use plumbing system
2. Can be used with hot and cold water
3. Can also be used with metal and PVC piping
4. PEX has fewer fittings, making it faster to install and with less of a 
chance to leak
5. PEX is more burst-resistant due to its flexibility to expand and contract
6. It has a shutoff valve at each supply line, making it more convenient for 
you when you have to get repairs done
7. PEX can have a pressure balanced system
8. Since it is flexible, the pipes can be bent around most corners and 
usually won't need a coupling or fitting

PEX Has Some Disadvantages that You Should be Aware Of:
1. It cannot be used outside
2. Cannot be recycled, due to its shorter life use
3. It provides an impermeable membrane that may allow the possibility of 
water contamination
4. The pipes may be damaged if left outside for a long period of time

The Advantages of Copper Are:
1. Durable and flexible, making it easy to install
2. Safer in natural disasters
3. Weather and bacteria-resistant
4. Resists corrosion, more so than other metals
5. Unaffected by ultraviolet rays, so it can be used outside
6. Copper does not release toxic gases in a fire because it resists burning
7. In earthquakes, the slightly elastic pipes flex so that they don't snap
8. Copper is recyclable, making it a more sound environmental choice

Copper Piping Also Has Disadvantages that Should be Considered:
1. Can corrode
2. Has become expensive
3. With higher levels of copper from corrosion, water can have a metallic 
taste
4. Copper can freeze and break during cold water

Compare the prices of PEX and copper piping to help understand the 
differences between the two.

PEX Prices

3/8 - $0.38
1/2 - $0.40
5/8 - $0.62
3/4 - $0.76
1 - $1.26

Copper Prices

3/8 - $4.87
1/2 - $5.67
5/8 - $7.31
3/4 - $10.21
1 - $13.38

We Asked Plumbers: What do you think about PEX piping when compared to 
copper piping?
Master Plumber Rick Marquette answered: There really is no comparison. I 
like my copper pipe because with PEX pipe, you have to have the right tools. 
It's convenient if you have all the tools...and that really matters when on 
a job site. I find copper easier to install because of this, and that is the 
main difference.

Carol Jones said: It [PEX] is obviously superior, and easy to install. 
Copper will break, and then there are all the elbows that must be installed. 
Every spring, with copper, I have breaks from the cold winters. The 
polyethylene pipe (PEX) will give a little, so it's not as likely to break 
as copper. And

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!

2010-07-23 Thread RJ

Only if you don't want water all over the place. There should be a shut off at
the filter.
RJ
- Original Message -
From: Max Robinson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!

Don't you have to shut off the water while changing the filter?

Regards.

Max. K 4 O D S.

Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com

Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com

To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
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- Original Message -
From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 4:29 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Refrigerator!

Hi Claudia,

To the best of my knowledge, most will have these filters. You generally
will find the filter in one of two places. The first place is inside the
fridge, near the top. It may be a short cylinder, which hangs vertically
near the rear of the cabinet. Some filters are long cylinders that are
mounted horizontaly and generally mounted on either side of the cabinet.
Another place you will find filters is at the bottom of the unit behind
the kick plate. In most cases you should not have to remove the kick plate
to access the filter. In this case the filter will be mounted parallel to
the floor.
Regardless of the configuration, these filters generally require just a
twist to unlock them from the mounting. You will find that most of these
filters will have a handle that you can grab to remove or install it and I
have even seen one where you remove the filter, pull a cap off the bottom,
which is actually a part of the fridge and matches the kick plate, and you
put on the new filter, before installation.
I hope this helps and there may be other configurations I am not aware of
that others can share.
On Jul 22, 2010, at 11:14 PM, Claudia wrote:

hi,

Our fridge has a water dispenser. Are there filters that are supposed to
be changed periodically, and if so, where do I find these filters!

Claudia

Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
Skype: claudiadr10

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Send any questions regarding list management to:
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Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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list just send a blank message to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] My watch.

2010-07-02 Thread RJ

Is this the old heavy metal case watch? If so, I can say it was one of the best 
watches I ever had. And it does count down.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Cy Selfridge 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 9:01 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] My watch.

  Man, I am glad Radio Shock is selling those 4 alarm watches again.

  The only problem I have ever had is that you just can not get the old
  battery out so when the battery dies you just get a new watch. (LOLLOLLOL)

  I will have to pick up one this weekend as I have not found another watch
  which I like as well as that old clunker.

  Cy

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
  Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 9:09 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] My watch.

  Yes, as a matter of fact I do. I notice that Radio Shack is now selling 
  their famous 4 alarm talking watch again. It also has a timer on it but I 
  can't remember if it also has the count down timer as well but it does have 
  at least one timer and at $19.99 it won't drive you to the poor house. You 
  can visit your local Radio Shack store or find it on line at the Radio Shack

  dot com web site.

  Alan

  Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
  There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
  the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

  The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
  available upon request.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Donnie Parrett deparr...@prtcnet.org
  mailto:deparrett%40prtcnet.org 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com

  Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:03 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] My watch.

   Does anyone know where I can get a 4 alarm talking watch? If so, do you 
   know how much they cost?

   Thanks,
   Donnie

   Have a great day, unless you have made other plans.

   ~

   To receive my Daily Devotion, Word Of Wisdom  Daily Bible reading, please

   send an email to:
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   Then, reply to the confirmation email that you will receive from Yahoo 
   Groups, and you will be on
   the list.

   Please join us on Skype Monday thru Friday at 8:00 EST for our Morning 
   Skype Prayer Time.

   Contact Me At:
   Donnie Parrett
   2000 Asa Flat Road
   Annville, Kentucky 40402
   Home Phone: 606-364-3321
   Church Phone: 606-364-PRAY
   Skype Name: Donnie1261
   Email: deparr...@prtcnet.org mailto:deparrett%40prtcnet.org 

   -Original Message-
   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
   [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]On Behalf Of Mike  Barbara
   Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 12:34 AM
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com

   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] My watch.

   Hi Phil;

   I don't know if this will answer the question you need answered but, below
   is the direct link to an audio file of the owner's manual of the 4 alarm
   talking watch.

   http://www.jaws-users.com/audio/MISC/4AlarmTalkingWatch.mp3

   Hope this helps. Take care.
   Mike

   - Original Message -
   From: Phil Parr philp...@consolidated.net
  mailto:philparr%40consolidated.net 
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 5:20 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] My watch.

   No I have another one just like it that is on 12 hour time. This one was
   until I had a new battery put in it, Phil.

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

   Send any questions regarding list management to:
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   To listen to the show archives go to link
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  http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_
  pagePAGE_id=33MMN_posit PAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_posit
   ion=47:29
   Or
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   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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   message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!

2010-07-02 Thread RJ

With a little time and effort, a Goode cheap water sealer is white cement. You 
mix the white cement in water, making a wallpaper paste like substance. Brush 
it on with a wallpaper brush. After a few days, paint the walls with a good 
latex paint or leave it white. Was taught this by a old cement contractor and 
did use it in a few rentals I had and did it seven years ago in our new home. 
My wife did paint the walls and of cement blocks after sealing them with this 
mixture.
RJ

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options

If you are going to use the gun sparingly, Harbor Freight might be a good place 
to look. If you are going to put it to hard use, get a good one.
RJ

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: testing for mold, more

Here is a good site you might want to look at. It has a lot of info and answers 
to the questions you been asking.
http://www.doh.wa.gov/ehp/ts/iaq/got_

At our neighbor's house, when my wife and I  were remodeling the place, went I  
replaced the plate and stubs on a none bearing outside wall, we found black 
mold. We used a half solution of bleach and water to clean the area, and 
sprayed it down with full strenght apple cider vinegar. This has cleaned up the 
problem, and stopped the allergy attacks the neighbor was having.
RJ

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold?

I do have one from Shaklee, that my wife swear by. I don't have allergies, so I 
can't tell. Plus the house is only 7 years old.
- Original Message - 
From: Claudia 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 16:36
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold?

County Health Dept. referred me to a company that you have to pay.
When I did talk with this company, they stated they could come out and do an 
initial inspection for free.
They also stated that mold clean-up can get very, very expensive, and it 
doesn't permanently cure the problem because it could potentially come back?
Then, he talked to me about purchasing an air purification system, one that he 
swears by, of course, that only costs $750, plus tax. Go figure! 

Does anyone know whether these air purification systems really work? If 
anything, I would ask him, if we could try it, for a week or two, before 
deciding whether or not we wanted to purchase.
I think this guy probably just wants my money, but at this point, I don't know 
of any other companies that come out to test.

Claudia

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold?

The last place you should go is a company that also fixes the
roblem, it's one of the big current scams out there.

Molds and mildew and th like are everywhere and apparrently not usually a
real problem. unless you've had long term water remaining in your place.

County health dept. sounds like a good plan.

Tom

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems

I will check, but to my recollection, the company had a special going at the 
time. Believe it was some where around  $450.  They are expensive and the bulb 
replacement isn't cheap.
RJ

- Original Message - 
From: Claudia 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 16:41
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems

RJ,

Do you recall how much you paid for your air purifier?

Claudia

- Original Message - 
From: RJ 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold?

I do have one from Shaklee, that my wife swear by. I don't have allergies, so I 
can't tell. Plus the house is only 7 years old.
- Original Message - 
From: Claudia 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 16:36
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold?

County Health Dept. referred me to a company that you have to pay.
When I did talk with this company, they stated they could come out and do an 
initial inspection for free.
They also stated that mold clean-up can get very, very expensive, and it 
doesn't permanently cure the problem because it could potentially come back?
Then, he talked to me about purchasing an air purification system, one that he 
swears by, of course, that only costs $750, plus tax. Go figure! 

Does anyone know whether these air purification systems really work? If 
anything, I would ask him, if we could try it, for a week or two, before 
deciding whether or not we wanted to purchase.
I think this guy probably just wants my money, but at this point, I don't know 
of any other companies that come out to test.

Claudia

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Fowle 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold?

The last place you should go is a company that also fixes the
roblem, it's one of the big current scams out there.

Molds and mildew and th like are everywhere and apparrently not usually a
real problem. unless you've had long term water remaining in your place.

County health dept. sounds like a good plan.

Tom

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Patching cement.

2010-06-16 Thread RJ

Any thing that deep, I would consider a dry pre-mix of sand and cement. Mix and 
pour
- Original Message - 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

2010-06-14 Thread RJ

Termite, roof condition. soundness of foundation, sewerage, water, foundation 
for crack and water leakage. Update on wiring and amp of service. Windows and 
doors condition. 
To began with. And a inspector of your choosing if you think you need one. Do 
not have the realtor pick out the inspector and make sure they are reputable.
- Original Message - 
From: Scott Howell 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 09:53
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

Hi Dale,

Well one thing they did is switch over to electric for heating water and I 
agree the windows would be first on my list probably. I do need to checkout the 
electric situation again since I did not look for every outlet. I have to admit 
that although they had the ac on to keep the house comfortable for folks doing 
a walk-through, it seemed like it was insulated pretty well since the ac never 
kicked on while we were their. I would of course have to check out the 
insulation and on that note the roof actually is very new. Apparently these 
people didn't just fix something, they had it removed and replaced. Apparently 
perfect working order meant literally perfect working order. I did not notice 
even a sound from the floors, which was surprising. I have obviously to check 
this out further and also another note, apparently selling the land would not 
be a problem and it was more a thought than something I would probably do. I 
think at the end of the day, I probably will not be able to unload/rent what I 
have and that would kill the deal for me, but I might as well check it out.
Thanks for the input.

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[BlindHandyMan] Flex pipe

2010-06-05 Thread RJ

Today I decided to put in a outside faucet that I been wanting to do every
since I had the house built seven years ago. There were two already, but not
where I have my square foot garden. So I was at Home depot and decided to
pick up the parts. The job took less than a hour from start to finish, and
not a leak in the place. In the good old days, the sweat fitting would have
been three times as many. For it only took two Shark bit fittings and 7 feet
of flex pipe. Now where was this stuff when I was in the rental business?
RJ

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Roots In Water Line

2010-06-01 Thread RJ

I owned a old home that had clay orange pipe for the main sewer line. Use to 
flush a cup of rock salt down the commode  every so often, it did retard the 
root growth, but every 4 to 5 years I would rent a power snake and root the 
roots out. So the salt isn't a cure all and neither is the acid.
RJ
- O

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Treadmill!

2010-05-30 Thread RJ

I just slid mine down the stairs in it container. It was easy. Or you could 
assemble the unit and slide it down on its wheels. Now that might take two 
people.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Claudia 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2010 23:01
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Treadmill!

Hi All,

I'm in need of a new treadmill, but I have some questions.
i went to look at it, in the store today, and it's pretty bulky, weighing 1 
pounds. It's a Golds Gym model, but I'm wondering how I can get it home.
I have family with a truck, but the lifting is going to be a pain in the **!
So, I thought I'd have it shipped to my house because shipping is practically 
free, but then, I'd still have to get it into the house and down to the 
basement!
I'm guessing I'll need two people for this project?

Claudia

Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
Skype: claudiadr10

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] My watch.

2010-05-27 Thread RJ

Phil,

Not sure what watch you have, but most have a mode button. On mine, it is with 
the watch facing up, the upper left hand button. Once you have it in the 12/24 
or military mode. the minute button, which is on the bottom right will turn the 
watch into the 12 hour mode. the button on the lower right will change it back 
to the military time mode. Hope this helps.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Phil Parr 
To: list handy 
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 17:31
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] My watch.


  
I ask this question on the other list and got no answers. I forgot all the 
technical whizzes are over here. 
I have a four alarm watch that is on 24 hour time and I want it on 12 hour 
time. Does anyone know how to do this little action. I have pushed and held 
every button and combination and it hasn't happened yet. 

Thanks, Phil Parr. 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] supporting outdoor steps?

2010-05-13 Thread RJ

A couple bags of pre-mix cement  to make a pad will do the trick. The bricks 
aren't wide enough to stop the sinking of the bricks into the sand.A  1 to 1 
1/2 foot pad on each side of the steps should do the trick.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: john schwery 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 08:48
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] supporting outdoor steps?

Outside a glass sliding door, we have some wooden 
steps that go from a small deck to the 
ground. Right now, I have a brick under each 
side but the bricks are slowly sinking into this 
sandy soil, in Florida. Is there any way to 
support the steps better? Should I pile another 
brick on top of each brick? Or, should I get 
some bigger stones? If so, how big do I 
need? Or is there another way? Thanks for any ideas.

John
Currently in Ocala, Florida Clear, 69°F Wind:Calm
Did you know that you are more likely to be 
killed by a champagne cork than by a poisonous spider?
Created by Weather Signature v1.31 . http://www.weathersig.com

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] painting paneling

2010-05-13 Thread RJ

Lee,

If one use wallboard compound, about three layers in the grewves you can get a 
smooth wall  before painting. Did that in a few rentals, when I had the eye 
sight. I put a good primer coat and than a good latex paint. Now a days, they 
tell me you can get the paint with the primer already in the mix or finish coat.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Lee A. Stone 
To: Blind Handyman 
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 13:48
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] painting paneling


  


I thinkit was Clifford and Jennifer who spoke of painting paneling. did 
you really do it and if so how did it turn out and what did you use 
for paint. did you use like the little foam sponges on a stick t get 
int the grooves ? thanks Lee

-- 
The honeymoon is over when he phones to say he'll be late for supper and
she's already left a note that it's in the refrigerator.
-- Bill Lawrence




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

2010-05-03 Thread RJ

Is this a woman's view.
Wondering minds want to know.
smiling,
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Jennifer Jackson 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 12:19
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

Ok, so here is the big question. If it was so easy to check and repair, why did 
it take you so long to do it? When she first complained about the water 
pressure you could have taken the time to check it right then. You could have 
been the hero who fixed the water instead of the guy who ignored your wife. 
Just saying...

Jennifer
- Original Message - 
From: Spiro 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 6:13 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

yeah, you're right.
Great story.

On Sun, 2 May 2010, Bill Gallik wrote:

 Spiro wrote:
 never show how easy it is, they don't.

 But what you do when you need their eyeballs to help get the job done?

 Reminds me of a story my Grandfather Visocky used to tell me about his father 
 (my great-grandfather Visocky).

 Seems that my Great-Grandfather Visocky was a major in the Austrian Imperial 
 Army and being a commissioned officer naturally was able to read. From the 
 story, one of Major Visocky's troops had gotten a letter from his girlfriend 
 or wife -- at any rate it was a feminine significant other of some sort. 
 Since this trooper could not himself read he approached my Great-Grandfather 
 with the following request, Sir, would you please read this letter to me? 
 And please don't listen?

 Holland's Person, Bill
 E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
 - With most men, unbelief in one thing springs from blind belief in another.
 - German Aphorist, Georg Christoph Lichtenberg (1742 - 1799)

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

2010-05-01 Thread RJ

Bill,
It sure couldn't hurt.
smile
- Original Message - 
From: Bill Gallik billgal...@centurytel.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 14:11
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

Oh boy RJ, if only you'd brought this up sooner.  Having grown up on a dairy
farm in northern Wisconsin I was privy to setting pressure on those tanks
since a kid.  Maybe you'll have to offer to wash her back when she takes
that first shower!   ;-)

Holland's Person, Bill
E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
- With most men, unbelief in one thing springs from blind belief in
another.
- German Aphorist, Georg Christoph Lichtenberg (1742 - 1799)

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[BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

2010-04-30 Thread RJ

Today, after months of my wife saying the water pressure in the house is a 
trickle. Kept telling her that on well water that is as good as it gets. 
Today she went to the grandkid soccer game and I decided after all these 
months she was right, but I am unable to read the pressure gauge, so I had 
to wait until she came home to read the thing. Got out my socket wrenches 
and turn up the pressure from 40 PSI to 60 PSI and when she seen how simple 
it was, I was in trouble. But after she takes her shower, maybe I will be 
forgiven.
smile 





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

2010-04-30 Thread RJ

Bob,

All I can say to that is
Amen
- Original Message - 
From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 20:35
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

Guess you know if the wife ain't happy, ain't nobody gonna be happy...
- Original Message - 
From: RJ rjf...@verizon.net
To: handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 8:32 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Wife isn't happy

 Today, after months of my wife saying the water pressure in the house is a
 trickle. Kept telling her that on well water that is as good as it gets.
 Today she went to the grandkid soccer game and I decided after all these
 months she was right, but I am unable to read the pressure gauge, so I had
 to wait until she came home to read the thing. Got out my socket wrenches
 and turn up the pressure from 40 PSI to 60 PSI and when she seen how
 simple
 it was, I was in trouble. But after she takes her shower, maybe I will be
 forgiven.
 smile

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 blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
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 address for more information:
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 list just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag Neptune Washer Bearing Problem

2010-04-11 Thread RJ

Clifford,

I have one of these machines and been told by a serviceman and a couple 
retailers that the new machines by who ever is making them don't hold up and I 
would be better off keeping the old machine. The Maytag top loader I had only 
one for 25 years and gave it to a friend, who use it for years. And the 
frontloader Maytag, so far has been a good one for near 7 years. I am going to 
hate to have to replace any appliances, for looking at them at our local 
dealers, they aren't made in the good old U S A, just assembled here. And have 
you noticed the warrantee? Sure aren't the 5 year, but one.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: clifford 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 23:34
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag Neptune Washer Bearing Problem


  
Dear Gil:
You saved yourself quite a sum by doing the work yourself. I received a quote 
of five hundred bucks to repair our Neptune, which was one of the first ones 
out. Since the machine had some years on it, we elected to replace it. I 
understand that the Neptune was the cause of Maytag going under. That is a real 
shame, as Maytag was one of those names that was equivalent to long lasting 
high quality American made products. The company name lives on, but the 
products are not the same.
We bought a Whirlpool with steam, and while it performs fairly well, my first 
wife would prefer to have a new Neptune, as she liked the old one better.

Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson
- Original Message - 
From: Gil Laster 
To: Blind Handyman 
Cc: jgatt...@gmail.com 
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 5:24 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag Neptune Washer Bearing Problem

Jim,

You mentioned having replaced the control board on your Maytag Neptune washing 
machine and now the bearings are roaring. I have a 2002 model. The control 
board failed at 14-months and after some fussing Maytag relented and replaced 
it for me as a warranty item. The bearings began to roar at 6-years. My wife 
had not been very happy with the machine so thinking that I might have to buy a 
new washer I did some research on the Internet, bought bearings and a seal, 
improvised a bearing puller, and fixed it myself. My wife later admitted that 
she was hoping that I would fail. I had never worked on such a machine before. 
There was much on-the-job learning. It took me about 24-hours of effort, but I 
believe that I could do it again in about 4-hours. The job would have been much 
easier with a proper bearing puller, but I was too cheap to rent it at $80.

I will write more details if you or anyone else wants to know more.

- Gil Laster, Charlotte, NC

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag, the good old days

2010-04-11 Thread RJ

Clifford,

Once the company my son worked for as a industrial engineer, would manufacture 
the equipment by order of the customer. Now they rebuild and modify what China 
send into this country that doesn't fit the bill.  After a year or two, he left 
that position, and found greener pastures in a inter national company..
- Original Message - 
From: clifford 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 12:00
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag, the good old days


  
Dear R. J. and list members:
My mother has a 1932 ringer washer by Maytag, that came originally with a 
gasoline engine and an exhaust that ran about forty feet out in to the lawn. It 
was modified for an electric motor in the fifties. It still works, although she 
turned it in to a back-up machine, when she bought an automatic washer. My 
mother, being the frugal person she is, refused for a long time to allow the 
automatic washer to empty all that hot water after only one run of wash. 
My first wife and I have had a Maytag top loader for well over 25 years, which 
was turned over to our rental house when we bought 
the Neptune. Maytag was an automatic buy for us back in the good old days, and 
those commercials showing the lonely Maytag repairman, were on the mark. 
I am one of those old fogies that believe that we are happily destroying this 
country, by allowing our industrial capacity to be outsourced to off
-shore locations. I thought then, and I still think today, that the treaties we 
have signed on trade are formulas for disaster.
According to the history channel, the first manufacturing operation started in 
the U. S. was a company making shovels. I wonder how long it will be before 
there will no longer be a shovel made in the U. S. A. 
I am told by a machinist friend that our capacity to make and sell industrial 
tooling is being shifted abroad, and that many machines used in industry here 
are imported. 
Given all of the trends, I am not at all optimistic about our future. Whether 
it be a power saw, invented in this country, or an outboard motor, also 
invented here, the U. S. manufacturers are slipping away. 
My first chain saw was a Homelite , which gave good service and I would have 
gladly bought another, had they kept up with developments. 
I will quit with this line of thought before the sensors become outraged.

Yours Truly,

Clifford Wilson

__ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature 
database 5017 (20100411) __

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,

2010-04-09 Thread RJ

Try soaking it with water and a couple tablespoons of baking soda
- Original Message - 
From: Spiro 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 17:58
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dan or others,

Hi,
Maybe it took too long, but I finally got my Handyman thermos Two weeks 
ago.
Steel, double walled with a 12oz steel cup.
I'm saving $2 a day and it can take a beating.
I'm sure to have it with me more than just to my non-fix-it job but 
thankfully to any outside project.
However, Dan and others, it has that very familiar Canteen smell.
You guys must know that smell.
I've used it now for 8 days, and that smell went away for the most part 
after 5. But is was heavily in the coffee. It's still there, and I'm 
thinking $2 a day (makes the coffee cost $33.90 a pound at DD) is 
starting to sound good as I'm not happy with that as a taste in my fine 
etheopean coffee from home.
Help, what gets that smell out of a canteen or steel liquids vessel?
Thanks

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector

2010-04-09 Thread RJ

Do a google check for x10 surveillance camera, they are price reasonably. Or a 
good motion light might help.
- Original Message - 
From: Brice Mijares 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 19:30
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] security light with motion detector

Can you believe this. We move into a senior citizen mobile home park in 
December. I had a regular trash can that I saved our aluminum cans that I 
always smash. Well last week, I went outside to dump some and couldn't 
fine the trash can. Some lousy sum bitch stole the trash can and all. Now I 
need some ideas. I want something like a motion detector that will not only 
light up the area, but also start a cam recorder or the likes. It had to be 
someone from outside the park that did this as I found out others had there 
cans stolen. 

__ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
database 5014 (20100409) __

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] ladder hooks

2010-04-08 Thread RJ

Get a cement anchor and put a hook on the block wall.
- Original Message - 
From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net
To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 11:23
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] ladder hooks


Is there anyway, preferably an easy way, to hang a ladder on a block wall?
Tomorrow I am picking up a used 8 foot step ladder. A guy purchased two for
a one time project and is selling them for half price. I have had this home
for 36 years and at least once a year thought that I should have an 8 foot
since the home has 10 foot ceilings. It is too hard to pass up the $45
price. My only problem is storage. My choices are to keep it outside,
hanging sideways under the front porch or storing in the attic.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.


__ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature 
database 5010 (20100408) __

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com







Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
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Or
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key

2010-04-05 Thread RJ

I suggest you get a key made at your dealer's. If you don't have two keys to 
work the computer the key will cost about $75 compared to $25 to $35.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Brice Mijares 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 10:37
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key


  
I don't think it's all that easy as walking in to any hardware store and 
having a key made. I believe there is a chip in the key that will allow the 
motor to start and won't start without this chip. That's why I was hopeful 
I could get it straighthen.
- Original Message - 
From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key

 Before they cut the replacement key they can measure the key and set the 
 numbers into the cutter and never have to do anything else to the bent 
 key. They have a gauge that gives the combination of the teeth.
 - Original Message - 
 From: Dale Leavens
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 5:45 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key



 Won't he have to straighten it before it can be traced with the copier? 
 Unless of course he gets the use of the other key.

 The other problem with straightening an instrument like a key is that the 
 convex side of the bend is now longer.
 When you straighten it the concave side lengthens. Depending on where the 
 bend happens it might offset the teeth enough that they no longer engage 
 the tumblers accurately.

 Keys like that too tend to be brittle as you already pointed out.

 If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
 - Original Message - 
 From: Bob Kennedy
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 5:31 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key

 If it's just the unlock key and not the ignition key, I wouldn't mess with 
 a lock smith.

 Just take it to any of the box stores and let them make a copy for you. 
 Any time you bend metal and then bend it back it is weakened and you run 
 the risk of breaking it off in the cylinder. Much more of a problem then.
 - Original Message - 
 From: Brice Mijares
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 5:23 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key

 A couple months ago I had my keys hanging off my belt loop and must have
 bumped into something pretty hard because the car key was bent nearly to a
 45 degree angle. It's one of those keys that you can lock or unlock the 
 car
 with. Can a lock smith straiten one of these keys out?

 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
 signature database 4999 (20100404) __

 The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

 http://www.eset.com

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
 signature database 4999 (20100404) __

 The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

 http://www.eset.com

 

__ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
database 4999 (20100404) __

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key

2010-04-05 Thread RJ

If you have two keys, it can be done by inserting the two keys in the order 
they instruct u to insert the two keys in the ignition along with the blank. 
The cost is much less than  if they have to use a machine to do the 
calibrations, /





For a Ford the cost was $35 for the blank. And would have cost $75 if I didn't 
have the two keys to do the calibrations.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Trouble 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 15:47
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key


  
A friend of mine lost his keys out in the woods. 
The spare was with a buddy along with him in case 
he wanted to go back for something.
To get that key replace I think he said it cost 
around $80 just for one, because of that chip.

At 10:56 AM 4/5/2010, you wrote:


RJ, we do have an extra key. I'll have to call the Dodge dealership and see
what it's going to cost to replace this key.
- Original Message -
From: RJ mailto:rjf110%40verizon.netrjf...@verizon.net
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key

 I suggest you get a key made at your dealer's. If you don't have two keys
 to work the computer the key will cost about $75 compared to $25 to $35.
  RJ
  - Original Message -
  From: Brice Mijares
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 10:37
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key
 
 
 
  I don't think it's all that easy as walking in to any hardware store and
  having a key made. I believe there is a chip in the key that will allow
  the
  motor to start and won't start without this chip. That's why I was hopeful
  I could get it straighthen.
  - Original Message -
  From: Bob Kennedy mailto:intheshop%40att.netinthes...@att.net
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 3:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key
 
  Before they cut the replacement key they can measure the key and set the
  numbers into the cutter and never have to do anything else to the bent
  key. They have a gauge that gives the combination of the teeth.
  - Original Message -
  From: Dale Leavens
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 5:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key
 
 
 
  Won't he have to straighten it before it can be traced with the copier?
  Unless of course he gets the use of the other key.
 
  The other problem with straightening an instrument like a key is that the
  convex side of the bend is now longer.
  When you straighten it the concave side lengthens. Depending on where the
  bend happens it might offset the teeth enough that they no longer engage
  the tumblers accurately.
 
  Keys like that too tend to be brittle as you already pointed out.
 
  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message -
  From: Bob Kennedy
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 5:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key
 
  If it's just the unlock key and not the ignition key, I wouldn't mess
  with
  a lock smith.
 
  Just take it to any of the box stores and let them make a copy for you.
  Any time you bend metal and then bend it back it is weakened and you run
  the risk of breaking it off in the cylinder. Much more of a problem then.
  - Original Message -
  From: Brice Mijares
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 5:23 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] bent ignition key
 
  A couple months ago I had my keys hanging off my belt loop and must have
  bumped into something pretty hard because the car key was bent nearly to
  a
  45 degree angle. It's one of those keys that you can lock or unlock the
  car
  with. Can a lock smith straiten one of these keys out?
 
  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
  signature database 4999 (20100404) __
 
  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
 
  http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 
  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
  signature database 4999 (20100404) __
 
  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
 
  http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com
 
 
 
  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
  signature database 4999 (20100404) __
 
  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
 
  http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com
 
 
 
 
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed

Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

2010-04-04 Thread RJ

If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job 
nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if 
close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Scott Berry 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw


  
Hello there,

I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in
diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do
you recommend.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] blocked drain

2010-04-02 Thread RJ

If the drain hasn't cleared in a 1/2 hour with the chemical, think of using  a 
snake, or try flushing it with a hose or use a plumber plunger
- Original Message - 
From: Jennifer Jackson 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 12:16
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] blocked drain


  
On this note, how long after putting nasty chemicals down a drain do I need to 
wait before trying something else?

Jennifer

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Rossi 
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] blocked drain

Depends on the drain. You can always use a snake, but typically you will 
have to get your hands a bit wet to get it started.

-- 
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] key and lock

2010-03-25 Thread RJ

If you can't use lock lube to get the key to work. Take the lock and have them 
put a new cylinder in your existing lock.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Removing burner from gas stove

2010-03-25 Thread RJ

Lift up the grates. Than the splash pan. Than the burners usually lift up. When 
putting them back. Make sure you have the gas supply into the burners. Is yours 
a electric igniter? For one mine all I have to do is adjust the burner head 
back on to it original adjustment and the burner will light.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Andy Borka 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 10:59
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Removing burner from gas stove



  We have a gas stove ran on pilots. How do you take the burner off? When we 
turn it on, we smell gas and the burner wont light.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Lawn mowers

2010-03-23 Thread RJ

Use a mover for years. First I boxed in the flowers and other areas I didn't 
want cut with landscape timbers. and cut the grass north to south and east to 
west as one would use a sweeper. They tell me the yard looked good. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-23 Thread RJ

It is easier to use the socket and turn it clockwise to cut what is stuck. Done
this several times in the past.
RJ
- Original Message -
From: Ron Yearns
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 21:47
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

Well the turning it backwards might work. Otherwise a socket with a long
extension to remove the nut on the cutters and someone to hold the hex wrench
in the bottom should allow the cutters to come up. You may not be able to
remove them as a lot of disposals taper in and the upper housing would have to
be removed, which of course requires removing the disposal from under the sink.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

Aloha Ron,
I thought exactly what you're saying. Yesterday
we got a flashlight and a mirror trying to see
what might be in there. I'm not afraid of putting
my hand in there and I even ran my finger nail
around the very edge to see if I could find something. No joy.

I think the poor thing may be 30 years old. It's
a Kenmore and I thought about calling someone,
but that will cost me more than a new one.
Please feel free to send more suggestions.
Betsy
At 01:27 PM 3/23/2010, you wrote:

Most likely you have a chunk of dish cloth or
sponge lodged in the cutters. It could be stuck
bearings, but doubtful. Feel down inside the
disposal around the edge and see, no pun
intended, if you can find something of the cloth
or may be some plastic like off of some
packaging . Feel real good it may be hard to
find. As long as the switch is off this is safe.
If it is the plug in style unplug also if that will make you feel safer.
You likely will need some pliers to pull out
what you can to free up the disposal.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

Aloha all,
I did get hold of a wrench to turn the disposal
from the bottom and it does turn but it almost
takes 3 men and a baby to move it. It didn't get
any easier after turning it several times.

RJ, where would I put the socket to turn it from the top?
Betsy
At 12:48 PM 3/22/2010, you wrote:

Get a socket wrench and turn it from the top.

- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
To:

mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 23:33
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

There doesn't seem to be anything caught in
anything. The hatchet-head looking things turn
freely. I'll get a wrench tomorrow to see if I can turn it from the bottom.
Betsy
At 06:24 AM 3/21/2010, you wrote:

Hi,

Those blades are to turn without resistant. They
direct the food into the cutters. I would bet
you will have to loosen the material that is
caught in the cutters. U can use a wrench that
came with the unit or use a socket that fits the
nut inside the unit. by placing it in the
insides of the unit. I believe the nut should be turned clockwise.
RJ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-22 Thread RJ

Get a socket wrench and turn it from the top.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 23:33
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

  There doesn't seem to be anything caught in 
  anything. The hatchet-head looking things turn 
  freely. I'll get a wrench tomorrow to see if I can turn it from the bottom.
  Betsy
  At 06:24 AM 3/21/2010, you wrote:

  Hi,

  Those blades are to turn without resistant. They 
  direct the food into the cutters. I would bet 
  you will have to loosen the material that is 
  caught in the cutters. U can use a wrench that 
  came with the unit or use a socket that fits the 
  nut inside the unit. by placing it in the 
  insides of the unit. I believe the nut should be turned clockwise.
  RJ

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-22 Thread RJ

Put a extension on the socket and put it on the nut in the center of the  
disposal. I believe mine  takes a 3/4 inch socket. Put the racket on the 
extension and turn the socket clockwise. Unplug the disposal and u can put your 
hand down the disposal and feel the nut.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 20:37
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

  Aloha all,
  I did get hold of a wrench to turn the disposal 
  from the bottom and it does turn but it almost 
  takes 3 men and a baby to move it. It didn't get 
  any easier after turning it several times.

  RJ, where would I put the socket to turn it from the top?
  Betsy
  At 12:48 PM 3/22/2010, you wrote:

  Get a socket wrench and turn it from the top.

  - Original Message -
  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 23:33
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

  There doesn't seem to be anything caught in
  anything. The hatchet-head looking things turn
  freely. I'll get a wrench tomorrow to see if I can turn it from the bottom.
  Betsy
  At 06:24 AM 3/21/2010, you wrote:

   Hi,

   Those blades are to turn without resistant. They
   direct the food into the cutters. I would bet
   you will have to loosen the material that is
   caught in the cutters. U can use a wrench that
   came with the unit or use a socket that fits the
   nut inside the unit. by placing it in the
   insides of the unit. I believe the nut should be turned clockwise.
   RJ

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-21 Thread RJ

Hi,

Those blades are to turn without resistant. They direct the food into the 
cutters. I would bet you will have to loosen the material that is caught in the 
cutters. U can use a wrench that came with the unit or use a socket  that fits 
the nut inside the unit. by placing it in the insides of the unit. I believe 
the nut should be turned clockwise.
RJ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.

2010-03-21 Thread RJ

If you have a Harbor Freight, try there. Just seen one the other day went I was 
there.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 21:38
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.

  Art,

  I have looked around for an appliance dolly, but have not found one for 
  sale. OK, granted, maybe I haven't looked hard enough, because I am 
  betting those suckers are not cheap. I've used one before and it is 
  great.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] re: update on sealing tile

2010-03-21 Thread RJ

Check and see if the grout can be used in wet areas as a bathroom before 
applying. Years ago, it was a NO, NO.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: lvmumford 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 10:59
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] re: update on sealing tile

  Here's an update to the message I posted about a week ago on whether or not 
to seal the new tile to be installed in our home. We are also having Laticrete 
electric radiant heat mats installed underneath the tiles. The Laticrete 
technician who was at our house on Thursday with our contractor to look over 
the job suggested that we use epoxy grout. He said it would eliminate the need 
for sealing and that it is used for commercial projects because it's very stain 
resistant, and doesn't need sealing or resealing. He said in the past epoxy 
grout was difficult to apply and was very expensive but that the epoxy grout on 
the market nowadays (the Laticrete one anyway) is much easier to use and is 
cost effective. 

  Linda

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-20 Thread RJ

If you have a set of socket  and a extension, you can use it to loosen the 
blades. That is what I use since we lost the allen wrench for the disposal
  - Original Message 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing question

2010-03-18 Thread RJ

I most cases a over lay isn't covered.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins 
  To: Blindhandyman 
  Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 09:54
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing question

  Our house (raised ranch) was built in 1975. We had a new
  roof put on in 1998. At that time there was only one layer
  of existing shingles and the contractor felt there would be
  no problem in just putting a new layer of standard 20-25
  year asphalt shingles. This Spring, my wife said the
  shingles were looking funny on the front side of the house.
  This is the side facing South an gets lots of sun. Yesterday
  I had a chance to get my ladder out and go up to do a
  cursory inspection to better understand what she was
  bringing to my attention. The shingles are all in intact but
  a lot of them are curling up on the corners of each third of
  the shingle. In many place where they are curling the
  asphalt is flaked off but the under part of the shingle
  remains.

  My questions are these
  1. Would something like I described above constitute some
  warranty coverage on the part of the shingle manufacturer?
  If so, does there guarantee only cover the faulty product or
  include the labor associated with replacing?

  2. Could something like this have been caused by severe
  weather and winds and subsequently be covered by home owners
  insurance?

  3. Is this something to be immediately concerned with or not
  to worry for a few more years.?

  I know the next roof that goes on is going to require
  removing the current two layers and then putting down new
  paper and shingles. From the times I've been in our crawl
  space in the attic I don't believe any of the plywood would
  need to be replaced. Any feedback on the above would be
  greatly appreciated

  Al

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] new tile floor- should I seal?

2010-03-09 Thread RJ

Seal it. We did and the grout looks as good as the day we put it in.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: lvmumford 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2010 17:05
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] new tile floor- should I seal?

  Hello everyone,

  I am new to this list and I have a question for the group. Hubby and I are 
blind and we are having our home remodeled with new tile floors put in our 
kitchen, dining room, sunroom, and utility room. The grout color will be a 
medium shade of bone with the grout lines 1/16 inch wide (the tiles themselves 
are large-- sorry I can't remember their exact dimensions). Anyway, I am 
getting conflicting advice as to whether or not to have the grout sealed. Some 
say sealing it is a waste because the grout line is so thin, the sealant will 
wear off, and you need to reseal every year. Others say that sealing the grout 
will help prevent the grout from absorbing food spills and stains (I have a 
guide dog with a very sensitive stomach), and becoming discolored. What is your 
advice?

  Much thanks,
  Linda

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] lmidnight altert system

2010-03-07 Thread RJ

Claymores should do the job.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 22:52
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lmidnight altert system

  Dale, your post makes sense but a previous post you sejnt about 
  affordable alarms makes sense too. and let me add that more 
  Americans are carrying concealed and not today then at any time 
  before. and for good reasons because judges do not do their job. end 
  of my rant for now Lee

  On Sat, 
  Mar 06, 2010 at 11:07:00AM -0500, Dale 
  Leavens wrote:
   See, that is just it!

   There are over three hundred million people in the United States. That is a 
number I have trouble grasping. When you then profile the perpetrators of that 
sort of assault and come to understand that most of them already know their 
victim the odds against something like that happening to a single individual 
randomly on a particular point of the earth at a particular point in time 
become incredibly small. Just how does such anxiety get driven into the general 
population? And why? Who or what wants Americans to be so terrified?

   Now of course I have no proofs or statistics for the following statement 
but I would gamble the farm that there is far more risk of an automobile 
loosing control and crashing through the fence and running over the tent than 
any personal assault. That sort of thing happens thousands of times a day and 
far more randomly. So often in fact that it is rarely even reported.

   Here we are discussing table saw injuries for example. These happen in the 
hundreds per day to people with full sensory capability the lack of which must 
substantially increase our risk and we know from postings on this list or maybe 
the Woodworking for the blind list several people who have had such injuries 
yet we not only continue but aspire to have even more risk associated tools at 
our disposal.

   I suppose it could be said that those people randomly shot in their tents 
are no longer available to post to the list but of course that isn't the case. 
Do Americans stay in their homes for fear of drive-by shootings? It all just 
seems like such an unusual environment that people like me from another country 
and another culture have difficulty grasping what it must be like to live under 
that sense of threat all of the time.

   Why am I even writing this anyway? I suppose because I feel badly that 
there are so many people so terrified about the world and environment they live 
in. That has to be so crippling, so limiting. Blindness surely is enough!

   If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
   - Original Message - 
   From: Tom Hodges 
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 10:22 AM
   Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] lmidnight altert system

   I would certainly be paranoid about sleeping in the yard in a tent with
   children. Look at the news this past week, a 16 year old girl couldn't even
   jog in a park in San Diego without getting raped and killed. If a child
   predator saw a tent in a yard, I think their first inclination would be that
   children ar sleeping in it. Again, no, I don't think you are being paranoid
   or too careful.

   Hang in there, Tom.

   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
   On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
   Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 6:39 PM
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lmidnight altert system

   Hi Spiro,

   I think that many of us have a difficult time in imagining the danger you
   perceive. Of course just because I am paranoid doesn't mean I am not safe
   but what would the motivation be to molest you in your tent? I don't think
   it is a blindness issue, blind or not one sleeps.

   Running along a motorway at what ever speed and seeing a tent in a yard then
   finding a turn around to go back and park to molest who ever may or may not
   be in that tent seems a stretch to me and probably many others.

   My sister once dropped a pearl of wisdom when I expressed anxiety about a
   situation. She told me I was being pretty arrogant to think people had so
   little to do but pay attention to me.

   This maybe an easier conclusion from the quiet peaceful back woods of Canada
   it is rue. Last summer though we did have a bear walk through the front yard
   and leave a calling card but that is so rare an incident that I wouldn't
   worry about sleeping in the yard. Actually I often do, albeit on the swing
   and during the sunshine.

   If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
   - Original Message - 
   From: Spiro 
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 6:05 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lmidnight altert system

   Hey, before my earnest attempt to build something as a blind dad so

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumming question

2010-03-05 Thread RJ

Which stands for Female and male.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 13:38
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Plumming question

  An FIP is a Female Iron Pipe, or one in which the threads are on the
  inside of the fitting. 

  The opposite would be an MIP, or Male Iron Pipe, in which the threads are
  on the outside of the fitting.

  BTW, I'm not smart enough to have known this. I got curious and looked it
  up.

  Gary

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Dave Andrus
  Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 11:24 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Plumming question

  Hi,

  The question: what does f.i.p. stand for? 

  The story behind the question. 
  My wife found a very nice marbeltop sink and vanity for our bathroom. So
  last night I went to take out the old one in our present bathroom. Of course
  nothing is as easy as take out, put in. 

  I went to turn off the valves under the sink. I found out when I took off
  the supply line that the valves no longer work. Lots of water spirting
  everywhere. They felt very old and almost rusty. So it did not surprise me
  that they did not work. I thought of replacing the rubber washer in the
  valve but decided that new valves would be a better route to go. 

  I went and turned off the water at the main that I could take off this
  non-working valve and send it with my sighted wife to the store to get two
  new ones. Turning off the main, turning on faucets all around the house to
  bleed out water from the pipes I went back to the bathroom. Well I found out
  that the main valve also does not shut off the water completely. I found
  that out when I went to take off the valve under the sink. More water
  spirting everywhere. 

  So I quickly put it on to stop the flow of water. 

  Coming out of the wall was a pipe which I measured at 7/8 of an inch outter
  diameter with threads. 

  So my wife went to the store and brought home a valve which was a half inch
  f.i.p. valve. The valve was female and fit the male end of the pipe coming
  out of the wall perfectly. 

  So with water flowing out, I switched the old for the new, fitting
  perfectly. Now the valves are working well. 

  So the question again is what does f.i.p. on this half inch valve mean? 

  Dave A. 

  Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of
  Jesus

  Rev. Dave Andrus, Director
  Lutheran Blind Mission
  888 215 2455
  HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] need help with a weerd problem.

2010-02-27 Thread RJ

The easiest is move the stove.
  - Original Message - 
  From: aadorno 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 09:44
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] need help with a weerd problem.

  the other night I was making dinner and as I began to serve myself I dropped 
a few pieze in between the stove. now my question is, how can I get these pieze 
from in between the stove. do I have to move the stove witch will be a pain or 
is there an easyer way. I do not want to egnor this problem because I am afraid 
of getting mice.
  all help will be appreicated. 
  thanks, Angel.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] need help with a weerd problem.

2010-02-27 Thread RJ

And I would bet after using the stick than thinking you have the problem 
solved, that if you move the stove there are still things that were under it.
smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: frank cunningham 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:48
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] need help with a weerd problem.

  wooden yardsticks work good...
  Frank

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:30 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] need help with a weerd problem.

  Can you sweep them out with a long stick or maybe a flattened cardboard tube? 
Maybe a straightened out clothes hanger with some stiff paper taped to one end?

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: aadorno 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 9:44 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] need help with a weerd problem.

  the other night I was making dinner and as I began to serve myself I dropped 
a few pieze in between the stove. now my question is, how can I get these pieze 
from in between the stove. do I have to move the stove witch will be a pain or 
is there an easyer way. I do not want to egnor this problem because I am afraid 
of getting mice.
  all help will be appreicated. 
  thanks, Angel.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Labelling Tips

I use velcro for these. I put them on my flat panel oven controls, wash/dryer, 
and other things like my microwave oven 7 years ago and haven't had to replace 
them yet. Got the velcro at a craft shop that had the velcro cut into different 
shape and were small.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: Blind Handyman Listserv 
  Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 09:44
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Labelling Tips

  Hi Everyone,

  I'm labeling a whole bunch of stuff here in the house, and it seems that the 
daimo tape isn't sticking.

  I've completely cleaned the surfaces well, and wiped them down with alcohol, 
but the labels are coming off faster than you can say hot knife through butter.

  Anyone have any tips they can pass along that will help me get this stuff 
stuck on well, and that won't come off?

  I'm literally at my tapes end, so to speak.

  Just to name a few things I'm labeling are the flat panel on the microwave, 
my fax machine, which I'm going to try placing the labels on the buttons 
directly, as opposed to the sides of them as I did when I first tried to lable 
it, my washing machine, and my dryer.

  Again, I simply can't understand why the labels are coming off.

  It's not humid in my house, if anything it's extra dry in here, especially 
with the winter season and cold temperatures, and these appliances don't come 
in direct contact with water.

  I'm always making sure my hands are dry when I touch the labels, and not 
greasy or anything like that, so, again, I'm at a loss.

  Thanks all.

  Victor

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] GFI's

It sounds like they have the line and load connections crossed. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brice Mijares 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 09:36
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] GFI's

  Back in early December my wife and I bought a triple wide mobile home. As 
  most of you know, that would be in 3 sections joined together. On one of 
  the outside sections, there is two full bathrooms. After we moved in I had 
  a electrician friend of mine come in and restore power to both bathrooms 
  which have GFI's already installed. Once here, he found the problem right 
  away. On that section there is an outlet on the outside for the patio which 
  was fried. Also, in the breaker box, the breaker for the 2 bathrooms and the 
  patio outlet is GFI as well. If I lost you, I'm saying that where the 
  breaker is tripped, it is also equip with a extra GFI as part of the breaker 
  switch. That was fried too and was replaced. Well last night I plug in my 
  digital player to charge in the extra bathroom and there was no juice. I 
  reset it and asked my wife if she had any problems in the master bath, and 
  she told me she had to reset it every time she used the blow dryer for her 
  hair. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening? 

  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
database 4895 (20100225) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] GFI's

I would change it to a 20 amp
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Yearns 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 11:36
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] GFI's

  Looks like the outlet GFI that is tripping is defective. Since the GFI 
circuit breaker protects it I would use a regular outlet.
  Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brice Mijares 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 9:08 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] GFI's

  It's tripping in the master bath only under a load from a blow dryer, and 
  it's reset within the bathroom it self.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Yearns ryea...@sbcglobal.net
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 6:56 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] GFI's

   As to an answer of why, I don't have a answer. If the breaker feeding the 
   baths is GFI also I would probably remove the GFI outlets and just depend 
   on the circuit breaker one. Over the years I have changed the outlet 
   types ones a few times. Just don't seem to have the quality in them.. If 
   that doesn't clear the problem since I couldn't tell from the post which 
   was tripping. If it is the circuit breaker GFI then I would replace it 
   with a regular circuit breaker and leave the individual outlet GFI's in 
   place. If both trip or they take turns then a ground fault exists 
   somewhere which means open things up and really do some searching.
   Ron
   - Original Message - 
   From: Brice Mijares
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 8:36 AM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] GFI's

   Back in early December my wife and I bought a triple wide mobile home. As
   most of you know, that would be in 3 sections joined together. On one of
   the outside sections, there is two full bathrooms. After we moved in I 
   had
   a electrician friend of mine come in and restore power to both bathrooms
   which have GFI's already installed. Once here, he found the problem right
   away. On that section there is an outlet on the outside for the patio 
   which
   was fried. Also, in the breaker box, the breaker for the 2 bathrooms and 
   the
   patio outlet is GFI as well. If I lost you, I'm saying that where the
   breaker is tripped, it is also equip with a extra GFI as part of the 
   breaker
   switch. That was fried too and was replaced. Well last night I plug in my
   digital player to charge in the extra bathroom and there was no juice. I
   reset it and asked my wife if she had any problems in the master bath, 
   and
   she told me she had to reset it every time she used the blow dryer for 
   her
   hair. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening?

   __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
   signature database 4895 (20100225) __

   The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

   http://www.eset.com

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

   __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus 
   signature database 4895 (20100225) __

   The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

   http://www.eset.com

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database 4895 (20100225) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] GFI

After doing a check on google, they are suggesting if the GFI is fairly new, 
is to check what is running on the circuit. If to many things are on that 
circuit or running a heater or hair drier you may be running at or near the 
max, which the GFI is doing its job by tripping. The suggestion is to break 
the circuit up in the bathroom by installing 12 2 with  ground and use a 
twenty amp GFI breaker or GFI receptacle 





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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Satellite Radios Anyone?

2010-02-19 Thread RJ

Have one, Just make sure the remote is usable, mine is very blind un-friendly. 
I think we pay around $12 per month for the service. Sound is great and so is 
the programming for almost everyone taste or interest.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dave Mitchell 
  To: blind handyman 
  Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 17:49
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Satellite Radios Anyone?

  Hi All, If this is not off topic, does anyone have current experience with 
  satellite radios and subscription service?
  I poked around the Serious Brand site and have an idea of current rates but 
  I also want to learn more about the actual radios. I would not need one for 
  the car as it has a Mark Levinson rig and my wife usually is playing her 
  I-Pod through it.
  I'm thinking of a basic unit for around the house, garage and yard.

  Off list is fine of course. Happy Weekend, Mitch

  mi...@orbitelcom.come 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] 4 way switch

2010-02-16 Thread RJ

You call it two 3 ways and 2 4 poles
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 22:48
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] 4 way switch

  My arrangement has four switches. One at the bottom of the stairs. The stairs 
split at the landing, left and right. there is a switch at the top of the right 
branch for the corridor in the old side of the house and there is a switch 
outside of each bedroom on the landing at the top of the left split of stairs, 
four switches altogether. they operate a set of four lights, one on the wall 
outside of each of the left bedrooms in the new addition, one in the corridor 
in the old half of the house and a fourth over the stairs.these lights can all 
be turned on or off from any of the four points. I don't know what you call 
that arrangement.

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: clifford 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 9:30 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] 4 way switch

  Dear Dale:
  I am quite sure we are talking about different situations. The 4 way switch 
arrangement I am referring to, involves one light and three switches, each of 
which can turn the light on or off. I have such a situation with regard to my 
entry hall lights. I have a switch just inside the exterior door, which is in 
the center of the hallway, with switches at either end, which allows a person 
coming in to the hallway from the kitchen end or the bedroom end to turn the 
lights on or off. 
  A 3 way switch is used in tandem so that the user can turn the light on or 
off from two locations. As you know, one can series several lights so that one 
switch controls all of them, such as in my hallway, where we have three 
recessed lights. My first wife picked them, and am I glad, because she has 
griped for thirty-three years about how little light these can lights produce. 

  Yours Truly,

  Clifford Wilson

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] it's quiet

2010-02-15 Thread RJ

That just shows you that you don't know how ice works. The Ice Caps are
melting, cooling down the lower part of the ocean, giving Canada warm weather
and us colder temperatures. Soon, here in northwestern Pennsylvania I will be
growing orange/lemon trees and others will be in the southern states growing
apples. So move north young man, when the land is still cheap.
LOL
RJ
- Original Message -
From: Bob Kennedy
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 22:18
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] it's quiet

Yesterday there was snow in my back yard. I'm trying to get in touch with Al
Gore to talk about this global warming crap he's been selling. I think it might
have been the coldest January over all since I've lived in NC.
- Original Message -
From: Max Robinson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] it's quiet

I thought there was snow on some of the mountain tops.

Regards.

Max. K 4 O D S.

Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com

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- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney braill...@hawaii.rr.com
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] it's quiet

Aloha Shane,
Yes, we're out here, but today is a major work
day for me. I'm formatting a braille manual and
the Sweetheart is running all of our dishes
through our new dishwasher before I figure out
where to put them into the new cupboards. Kitchen
remodeling is not for the neat or organized soul.
My office looks like a war zone with a path to my desk.
Hawaii is still the only state in the United States that has no snow.
Yahoo!
Betsy

At 01:07 PM 2/14/2010, you wrote:

Is anyone alive out there? Haven't seen any traffic today which I thought
was unusual. Oh yeah, for those of you that get ABC and were thinking
about
building a house, you might want to check out Extreme Make Over Home
edition. It comes on tonight at 9 p.m est. If my information is correct,
the
builds are going to be neat to watch. Nudura is going to be showcasing
their
product on 1 if not both builds.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] it's quiet

2010-02-14 Thread RJ

Everyone is out with their honey, doing the Valentine's thing.
smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: Shane Hecker 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 18:07
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] it's quiet

  Is anyone alive out there? Haven't seen any traffic today which I thought 
  was unusual. Oh yeah, for those of you that get ABC and were thinking about 
  building a house, you might want to check out Extreme Make Over Home 
  edition. It comes on tonight at 9 p.m est. If my information is correct, the 
  builds are going to be neat to watch. Nudura is going to be showcasing their 
  product on 1 if not both builds. 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ideas about constructing sidewalk welcome.

2010-02-11 Thread RJ

I used a 2x2 ft plastic form that  inter-locked  the block together, as you 
move the form. It gives a rock like look and you can color the bag of pre mixed 
concrete if you like. It is some what time consuming , but the look, so I am 
told looks great.  You finish it off with sand or a small pea gravel between 
the joints. Believe the form makes 8 or 9 rock like shapes
  - Original Message - 
  From: Sheryl Nelson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 23:53
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Ideas about constructing sidewalk welcome.

  Aloha from Sheryl,

  I want to construct a sidewalk that goes around my house part of the 
  way. I want to stay with a period look 1920. I've priced pavors at 
  several stores including the local hardwear store and big box stores. 
  There is not a very good selection of any kind. I've thought of 
  concrete, interlocking pavors at $1.50 each but probably do not know 
  what options are available. The walkway will start at the bottom of 
  my deck stairs make a gentle circle toward the front of the house 
  pass the front steps making a line to the rental studio to keep from 
  having to walk in the mud. I am thinking of around sixteen inches 
  wide. Would appreciate any thoughts and ideas. I roughly figured I 
  would need about 800 pavors for the project more than I want to 
  spend. Be careful if you live where the weather is very cold and 
  snowy. I saw on the news and frankly it looks awful. Stay safe. Aloha Sheryl

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ideas about constructing sidewalk welcome.

2010-02-11 Thread RJ

Dan Can't remember the cost, but it was much less expensive than having a 
cement truck  to come in. And people tell me the sidewalk doesn't take away 
from the country look. Plus, all I did was use a wheelbarrel to mix the pre mix 
in. Really didn't take that long About 8 hours of puttering around. I believe 
my wife and I poured about 70 feet of the walk. Plus the neighbor liked it so 
well, loan her the forms.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 11:12
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ideas about constructing sidewalk welcome.

  Sheryl,

  Bags of pre-mixed concrete come in 40, 60 or 80 pound bags. You just add 
  water, mix, and pour. However, saying it is approximately 1 times 
  easier than doing it.

  Firstly, an 80 pound bag of mix feels as if it weighs more like 160 pounds 
  as you try and move it around.

  Secondly, mixing the water into the mix is back breaking labor unless you 
  rent a small cement mixer which can easily be rolled around by a person, 
  and can handle two 80 pound bags.

  Lastly, you will be horrified to find out just how little cement is in an 
  80 pound bag, and you will weep to find out that a 40 pound bag is that 
  much less.

  A 40 pound bag of mix is approximately one quarter of a cubic foot of 
  cement. meaning that if you have a single stepping stone of two feet by 
  two feet by 3 inches thick, that is one cubic foot, or 4 40 pound bags of 
  cement. yes, each of your 2X2 stepping stones will weigh 160 pounds or 
  more, and require a full mixer to do each one.

  A 40 pound bag of mix was something like $1.50, maybe a bit more. So each 
  2X2 stone would cost about 6 bucks. Although, being in Hawaii, your costs 
  might be a lot higher. 80 pound bags are proportionally cheaper.

  You can get these at any big box store like Lowes or Home Depot.

  I would highly recommend pre-cast stepping stones for the number of stones 
  you are talking about. and, even though I am a big proponent of do it 
  yourself at nearly any cost, I would at least talk to a contractor to get 
  a couple of price quotes. They can bring in a large truck cement mixer 
  and pour the entire walk-way in probably half a day.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Washer drainage hose splashes when emptying

2010-02-07 Thread RJ

Put a towel in the sink.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney 
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 23:30
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Washer drainage hose splashes when emptying

  Aloha all,
  I have a deep laundry sink where the washer drains. When the water 
  hits the bottom of the sink it sometimes splashes onto the wall 
  beside the sink. Is there something I can put on the hose to make it stop?
  TIA
  Betsy
  Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gas Stove Question?

2010-02-06 Thread RJ

Most burners are factory set at different BTU. Adjust the high burner to match 
the lower flame
  - Original Message - 
  From: Claudia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 17:18
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gas Stove Question?

  Okay,

  I know I haven't posted in a while, but here is my question.
  What can I do if the flame on two of my gas burners does not appear to be the 
same, even when adjusted to the same setting on both burners?
  We were making pancakes this morning, and of course, we had to place the 
grittle over two burners. The flame was higher over one of the burners, than it 
was on the other.
  What might account for this, and how can we fix it, if it's even repareable?

  I wouldn't have noticed this because I don't usually use burners 
simultaneously, in that fashion, so it took us some time to figure out. Our 
sighted son was the one that noticed one of the flames was higher, than the 
other.

  Claudia

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wiring a switch.

2010-02-05 Thread RJ

The easiest way to explain wire a switch. Think of a solid black wire running 
from the  power or line through a switch box to the light. and the same of the 
white. Now cut the black wire in half and put one half of the black wirer on 
the  screw of a switch and the other half on the other screw. Leaving the white 
wire along.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Yearns 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 16:38
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wiring a switch.

  Choice 1 and 2 are both ok. Mostly choice. Many electricians like to run the 
power in the ceiling and drop off for the switch. Others prefer to run power 
horizontally through the studs catching outlets and switches, then running a 
line up to the light. Yes the white wire in number one is spliced, wire nutted 
and put into thee switch box. I am not sure what you mean in number three 
choice. You can break into the power line anywhere. Providing a junction box is 
installed and left accessible, with a proper cover. All three are then code for 
safety. Of you are using a extra junction box and possible cable clamps and 
cover. Extra money. In rewiring old work it is what works. In new work a little 
planning can make for less hole drilling and wire saving.
  When using the white wire for a switch leg as when the power is ran to the 
light first the code way is to turn the white wire into a colored wire. This 
can be done by painting both ends of the wire or more commonly using black, 
blue or red tape around it for the length of the exposed white insulation.
  Ron
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 1:19 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Wiring a switch.

  Not that I have any immediate plans of rewiring, but this question popped 
  in my head. I think I've seen a comment about this here before.

  If you are wiring a switch to a light fixture, do you:

  #1: Run a set of wires from the power source to the switch, and a set of 
  wires from the switch to the light fixture. In this case, connecting both 
  blacks to the switch terminals, and tieing the two whites together? Do 
  you just stuff the white splice in the box with the switch?

  #2: Run a set of wires from the power source to the light fixture, and a 
  set of wires from the switch to the light fixture. In this case, The 
  white from the power would connect to the white on the light, and the two 
  switch wires would be connected between the black power, and black light 
  wires. It technically wouldn't matter which orientation you connected the 
  switch wires, but is there a standard? I mean, black power, to black 
  switch, then white switch to black fixture.

  #3: I assume this one is definitely wrong, but similar to #2. Run power 
  directly to the light fixture, then just interrupt the black wire at some 
  point with the switch wires.

  I believe choice #1 is the correct option, but is choice #2 against code?

  Choice #3 seems to be the most efficient use of wire, no parallel runs of 
  wire, but would make it a pain in the ass to ever trace an issue since you 
  wouldn't necessarily know where the switch spliced into the power line.

  Just a thought for the day.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?

2010-02-02 Thread RJ

If not, check the  jet that regulate the gas flow.. There is a name for this 
opening, but just can't remember how to spell it. For there are more than two 
letters. 
smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Sherrer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 11:42
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?



  If the unit is still under warranty then return it for another unit.

  John
  http://WhiteCane.org
  http://BlindWoodWorker.com
  http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
  http://anellos.ws

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jerry Richer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 7:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?

  Sorry, I forgot to mention that very important point. This Propane heating 
stove is not vented to the outside. It's one of those advertised as so clean 
burning that it can be safely used indoors without venting to the outside.

  Jerry

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?

2010-02-02 Thread RJ

Thanks. Now only if I can remember the next time I need to know it.
smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Hodges 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 15:48
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?



  Oriface

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of RJ
  Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 2:55 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?

  If not, check the jet that regulate the gas flow.. There is a name for this
  opening, but just can't remember how to spell it. For there are more than
  two letters. 
  smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Sherrer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 11:42
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?

  If the unit is still under warranty then return it for another unit.

  John
  http://WhiteCane.org
  http://BlindWoodWorker.com
  http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
  http://anellos.ws

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jerry Richer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 7:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?

  Sorry, I forgot to mention that very important point. This Propane heating
  stove is not vented to the outside. It's one of those advertised as so clean
  burning that it can be safely used indoors without venting to the outside.

  Jerry

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Zip Car.

2010-02-02 Thread RJ

Dear Bob and all,

I am very unhappy that this company won't rent me one of their vehicles, after 
they ask me for my driver licenses and all I could come up with was my 5 foot 6 
inch white cane, plus my state ID card . I tried to explain, with a cane this 
long, I could and would feel the curb without problems, as long as the steering 
wheel was on the right hand side. They refused to accommodate my needs. 
Thinking of filing a ADA complaint.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: clifford 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 19:55
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Zip Car.



  Dear Dan:
  I have never heard of this company, but I like the idea. The next logical 
step is to equip these vehicles, for a nominal fee of course, with a driver 
with suitable credentials, and I would be pleased to draw up those parameters.

  Yours Truly,

  Clifford Wilson
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 11:16 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Zip Car.

  This is pretty tangentially related to handyman stuff, but follow me here. 
  Many blind handymen don't own vehicles. Often we may not know someone who 
  does own a proper vehicle, something useful like a pickup truck. But we 
  do know sighted people who drive.

  Teresa and I have rented trucks in the past for hauling large items but it 
  looks like this Zip Car concept, www.zipcar.com, has some pretty good 
  benefits as well as being comparatively inexpensive.

  You pay a $50 annual fee. Then you can use any Zip Car anywhere in the 
  world, they are pretty much only in major cities, for a reasonable hourly 
  or daily rental fee. The rental fee includes gas, insurance, maintenance, 
  and milage.

  The cars are parked at various locations around a city, and there are maps 
  of where the various cars are located on the website. You can reserve 
  online anywhere from a few hours, to a year in advance. You have a 
  special ZIPCar card, with an RFID tag on it. The card will unlock only 
  the specific car you reserved at the time you reserved it. It won't 
  unlock it early, and it won't unlock a different car in another location. 
  The keys are in the car, and there is a gas card that you can use to fill 
  the tank. Don't ask me how they prevent you from using the gas card to 
  fill your car, I haven't seen that answer yet.

  Technically, milage isn't unlimited, but you get 180 free miles whether 
  you rent for an hour or a day.

  Vehicles rent for anywhere from 7 bucks an hour up to something in the 
  teens for high end vehicles. They have a couple of Toyota Tacoma pickup 
  trucks in Pittsburgh and those rent for about $11.50 an hour. Although, 
  there are PA and PGH taxes and fees that make it more like $16.50 for the 
  first hour, and $12.50 for each additional hour. There is a one hour 
  minimum rental period, but after the first hour you can rent by the half 
  hour.

  There are heavy penalties if you don't return the vehicle by the end of 
  your rental period. You can extend your period by phone, but if the car 
  has already been reserved right after your original period, you can't 
  extend.

  I've spoken with a guy at work who uses the system mainly for the pickup 
  truck as well. He says he never has an issue reserving the vehicle, 
  especially if he does it a few days in advance.

  Overall, it sounds like a very flexible and affordable way to get one's 
  hands on a vehicle from time to time. Less expensive than UHaul from my 
  experience.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

2010-01-22 Thread RJ

If you don't care to spend the dough on putting in a receptacle, than drill the 
hole.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 21:24
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

  Hello Everyone,

  I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home since the flood last week. It has 
certainly encouraged me in my desire to downsize and declutter. One of the 
things I have done is to get rid of the giant desk that used to monopolize my 
dining room and I am planning to set up my computer and all it's accessories 
inside the closet that is under my stairs. Everything is going to fit nicely, 
but I am not certain about my best choice for the electrical supply.

  I could, of course, just run a power strip with a long cord around the corner 
to the nearest outlet outside the closet. This however creates an unsightly 
hazard that collects dust and stuff. There is a light socket on the wall, and I 
have considered getting one of those outlet adapters to screw into that, but I 
am concerned that it might not be meant to have that much of an electrical draw 
on it. My third idea is to use the bit on the drill that is used for installing 
deadbolts and making a small round whole in the wall that is shared with my 
living room and just plugging it into the outlet there. Lastly, I could have an 
electrician or some other skilled person install a new outlet in the closet.

  I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of expense and effort on this. 
So given that, what are your thoughts please?

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

2010-01-22 Thread RJ

The problem is, I don't believe there is a ground to the attachment for the 
socket.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 21:35
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

  Well the least expensive will be to avoid an electrician. I don't think the 
light socket will be harmed running a computer. My concern is the weight of the 
cord staying plugged in at that height and angle. I'd not drill a hole in the 
wall and run a cord through the hole. That will look worse than a cord running 
along the wall. 

  What you can do if you don't care what it looks like inside the closet would 
be to plug a short extension cord into the light socket and then a couple 
pieces of Gorilla tape across the cord would keep it from pulling out because 
of its weight. Red neck I know but it would work. 

  While you're at it, you may want to run a piece of tape across the light 
switch so it doesn't get turned off while the computer is running. It would be 
a reminder strip. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 9:24 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question

  Hello Everyone,

  I am doing a lot of reorganizing in my home since the flood last week. It has 
certainly encouraged me in my desire to downsize and declutter. One of the 
things I have done is to get rid of the giant desk that used to monopolize my 
dining room and I am planning to set up my computer and all it's accessories 
inside the closet that is under my stairs. Everything is going to fit nicely, 
but I am not certain about my best choice for the electrical supply.

  I could, of course, just run a power strip with a long cord around the corner 
to the nearest outlet outside the closet. This however creates an unsightly 
hazard that collects dust and stuff. There is a light socket on the wall, and I 
have considered getting one of those outlet adapters to screw into that, but I 
am concerned that it might not be meant to have that much of an electrical draw 
on it. My third idea is to use the bit on the drill that is used for installing 
deadbolts and making a small round whole in the wall that is shared with my 
living room and just plugging it into the outlet there. Lastly, I could have an 
electrician or some other skilled person install a new outlet in the closet.

  I want to be safe and use the minimum amount of expense and effort on this. 
So given that, what are your thoughts please?

  Jennifer

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

2010-01-19 Thread RJ

Good luck, I gave up on the snow blowing a while back, went I started into the 
woods and had to get some one to get me and the blower out. My driveway is only 
650 feet.
smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 23:06
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  I have been considering a snow thrower again however similar concerns to 
yours and the outrageous cost of a desirable unit put me off. I share my drive 
with a neighbour, it is 32 feet wide and a little over 85 feet to the road. I 
can't run a noisy machine 85 feet in a straight line and I worry too about 
where the snow is actually flying, wouldn't want to throw a chunk of something 
through a neighbours car window or a passing pedestrian.

  All that notwithstanding, I had thought of setting a 4 foot length of iron 
pipe into a bucket of cement, 30 pounds or so, one at each end of the run with 
a light rope pulled between and use that as a guide. Maybe a little tedious 
moving the standards at the end of each run but it might require only 12 or 15 
repetitions to cover the full 32 foot width. The other problem of course is 
that most of these machines now require both hands on the clutches to keep the 
thing in motion which leaves at least one too few for additional guidance.

  So far this winter we have mostly only had a couple of inches at a time 
although nearly every day but a big dump and I am going to be in trouble.

  We used to have a chap with a plough on the front of his truck but that isn't 
an option this year and my neighbour objects to having a front end loader on 
the new lock stone pavers.

  Like Bob, I expect you would need a very loud alarm to hear over the roar of 
a snow thrower and the ear covering required to keep the ears from freezing. 
Just why it hasn't become popular to make those engines quieter eludes me. Like 
those quad bikes and them darn special stinger mufflers they now seem to like 
on snow mobiles, sound like screaming farts on helium.

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Hume 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 11:38 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  It's funny that you'd mention this, as I have been considering a similar 
project. When I snow blow the drive way, I am often alerted by the family, that 
I am no longer in the driveway, but actually in the street. I have been 
considering setting a couple of treated 4 by 4's at the end of my driveway, one 
on each side. I know that there are units that make use of a beam, that when it 
is broken can set off an alarm. I would like the alarms to be mounted on the 
poles as well, to alert me to the fact that I am near the end of the driveway. 
Has anyone else done something similar or have any suggestions. Thank you in 
advance for your contributions.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 9:39 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  Dan's messages on wireless bad thing detectors have got me thinking about 
other wireless devices that can be used around the home. One such device that I 
have considered purchasing for a while is something to alert me when someone or 
something comes up my driveway and into my yard. Has anyone had any experience 
with any of the commercially available driveway alarms? If so what brand or 
model do you like or dislike? Are they fairly durable and reliable or do you 
have to throw them away after 6 months, like so many of the wireless door bells 
on today's market. 

  Thanks for any info that you might be able to provide.

  Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 8:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] multipurpose tool

  I own a Gerber as well. I like it very much, but I prefer a Swiss Army 
  knife for the size. Although, I stopped carrying those as well, but 
  recently picked up a UtiliKey from ThinkGeek.com it is quite literally the 
  size of any of the other keys on my key ring. It has a vitiously sharp 
  knife, bottle opener, flat head screw driver and philips screw driver. 
  Good enough for slicing open packages, and opening a beer.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

2010-01-19 Thread RJ

The camera is plug in to a 120 AC outlet. The remote sensor is DC operated.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brice 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 21:06
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  RJ, is this all wireless?
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 3:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  Here is the web site that I got the security camera from, believe the total 
cost was $79, which included a motion detector camera and a third part to 
connect to the VCR if I wanted to record it. The VCR shuts down when there is 
no movement. The buzzer I just bought at Sam's and can't remember what the cost 
was. Believe it was less than $100. 

  http://www.x10.com/homepage1.htm
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 16:23
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  Hi RJ,

  How does your system work? 

  I have been trying to figure a way to do something like this. A camera can
  send pictures to a computer via WI-FI and possible trigger an audio source.
  The audio could be a variety of things from a chime to an alarm ringing.

  $200 is not bad.

  Keith

  Re: Driveway Alarm
  Posted by: RJ rjf...@verizon.net 
  Date: Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:48 am ((PST))

  Dan,

  I have such a system. A alarm and a security camera transmits the pictures
  to the receiving unit. Under $200 for the set up. was
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 10:54
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  Hey Paul,

  Why don't you also investigate some computer vision stuff with face 
  recognition. That way, not only does it let you know that someone has 
  entered your driveway, but it can tell you who it is. OOO, Col!

  -- 

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

2010-01-19 Thread RJ

At times I have to agree with you.RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Hume 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 18:29
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  Yikes! You need a G.P.S. just to clean your driveway. My drive is only about 
50 to 60 feet long, and when I'm going to blow it off, I take a snow shovel and 
clean a path down both sides. This keeps me out of the lawn, but I still have a 
problem with going beyond the mouth of the driveway and getting caught in the 
road.
  - Original Message - 
  From: RJ 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 10:45 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  Good luck, I gave up on the snow blowing a while back, went I started into 
the woods and had to get some one to get me and the blower out. My driveway is 
only 650 feet.
  smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 23:06
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  I have been considering a snow thrower again however similar concerns to 
yours and the outrageous cost of a desirable unit put me off. I share my drive 
with a neighbour, it is 32 feet wide and a little over 85 feet to the road. I 
can't run a noisy machine 85 feet in a straight line and I worry too about 
where the snow is actually flying, wouldn't want to throw a chunk of something 
through a neighbours car window or a passing pedestrian.

  All that notwithstanding, I had thought of setting a 4 foot length of iron 
pipe into a bucket of cement, 30 pounds or so, one at each end of the run with 
a light rope pulled between and use that as a guide. Maybe a little tedious 
moving the standards at the end of each run but it might require only 12 or 15 
repetitions to cover the full 32 foot width. The other problem of course is 
that most of these machines now require both hands on the clutches to keep the 
thing in motion which leaves at least one too few for additional guidance.

  So far this winter we have mostly only had a couple of inches at a time 
although nearly every day but a big dump and I am going to be in trouble.

  We used to have a chap with a plough on the front of his truck but that isn't 
an option this year and my neighbour objects to having a front end loader on 
the new lock stone pavers.

  Like Bob, I expect you would need a very loud alarm to hear over the roar of 
a snow thrower and the ear covering required to keep the ears from freezing. 
Just why it hasn't become popular to make those engines quieter eludes me. Like 
those quad bikes and them darn special stinger mufflers they now seem to like 
on snow mobiles, sound like screaming farts on helium.

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Hume 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 11:38 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  It's funny that you'd mention this, as I have been considering a similar 
project. When I snow blow the drive way, I am often alerted by the family, that 
I am no longer in the driveway, but actually in the street. I have been 
considering setting a couple of treated 4 by 4's at the end of my driveway, one 
on each side. I know that there are units that make use of a beam, that when it 
is broken can set off an alarm. I would like the alarms to be mounted on the 
poles as well, to alert me to the fact that I am near the end of the driveway. 
Has anyone else done something similar or have any suggestions. Thank you in 
advance for your contributions.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 9:39 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

  Dan's messages on wireless bad thing detectors have got me thinking about 
other wireless devices that can be used around the home. One such device that I 
have considered purchasing for a while is something to alert me when someone or 
something comes up my driveway and into my yard. Has anyone had any experience 
with any of the commercially available driveway alarms? If so what brand or 
model do you like or dislike? Are they fairly durable and reliable or do you 
have to throw them away after 6 months, like so many of the wireless door bells 
on today's market. 

  Thanks for any info that you might be able to provide.

  Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 8:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] multipurpose tool

  I own a Gerber as well. I like it very much, but I prefer a Swiss Army 
  knife for the size. Although, I stopped carrying those as well, but 
  recently picked up a UtiliKey from ThinkGeek.com it is quite literally the 
  size of any of the other keys on my key ring. It has a vitiously sharp 
  knife, bottle opener

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

Dan,

I have such a system. A alarm and a security camera transmits the pictures to 
the receiving unit. Under $200 for the set up. was
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 10:54
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm



  Hey Paul,

  Why don't you also investigate some computer vision stuff with face 
  recognition. That way, not only does it let you know that someone has 
  entered your driveway, but it can tell you who it is. OOO, Col!

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

Dan,

I am told people are recognizable and the TV or monitor can be used as the 
receiver. The product for the alarm I got at Sea's club and the security camera 
I got off the net called x10 or  10x, not sure. The system does work well for 
what I need it for. I have the camera mounted in the inside on the window frame 
and I would say, about 60 feet the person or vehicle comes into focus.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 11:52
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm



  RJ,

  for 200 bucks, it does the facial recognition as well? Or just transmits 
  the image?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

Lee,

It can be use for that purpose.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 12:28
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm




  did I miss something here? is this unit remembering a face it has 
  seen before or are you talking about a unit for partial sighted 
  folks?? sounds like a Nanny cam set up is it? Lee

  On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 
  at 11:52:30AM -0500, Dan 
  Rossi wrote:
   RJ,
   
   for 200 bucks, it does the facial recognition as well? Or just transmits 
   the image?
   
   
   -- 
   Blue skies.
   Dan Rossi
   Carnegie Mellon University.
   E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
   Tel: (412) 268-9081

  -- 
  I would like to call your attention to ... an evil that, if allowed
  to continue, will probably lead to great trouble It is the
  accumulation of vast amounts of untaxed church property.
  [Ulysses S. Grant]
  .


  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm