Re: Stus-List Windlass info
Andy, Love to see the pattern for the roller mount. Might even steal it if you look the other way... David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 11:18:54 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Nope, just the gypsy. I like the low profile on the deck. the gypsy will handle both rope and chain. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:16 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks, I take it that you have the drum version? Richard Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 11:06 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info Here you go: https://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8338lid=25807 Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windlass info
happy to share! On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:29 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, Love to see the pattern for the roller mount. Might even steal it if you look the other way... David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) -- Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 11:18:54 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Nope, just the gypsy. I like the low profile on the deck. the gypsy will handle both rope and chain. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:16 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks, I take it that you have the drum version? Richard Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 11:06 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info Here you go: https://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8338lid=25807 Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windlass info
Me too! : also, what did you do below decks for the motor housing? Thanks! Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 11:46 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info happy to share! On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:29 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, Love to see the pattern for the roller mount. Might even steal it if you look the other way... David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 11:18:54 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windlass info
Haven't made it that far yet. Right now I just have a couple of holes in my foredeck. I will probably just use a tupperware box sealed on around it for now and then build something decent out of aluminum that I can screw in place and bed with butyl tape. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:52 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Me too! : also, what did you do below decks for the motor housing? Thanks! Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 11:46 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info happy to share! On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:29 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, Love to see the pattern for the roller mount. Might even steal it if you look the other way... David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) -- Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 11:18:54 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Securing seat locker
Andy, what type/brand etc. of windlass are you going with? also can you tell us about the mounting location? Thanks Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 At pool Stage finally... Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 10:20 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Securing seat locker I ask this as I am about to mount my windlass switch and breaker in there, next to my batteries and charger. The wrong wave could ruin my whole paycheck! Obviously, not a huge factor with coastal cruising, but if I head offshore... Andy CC 40 Peregrine ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Securing seat locker
It's a Lewmar V-2 and I am mounting it on deck, just aft of the anchor locker hatch, where there is just enough room. I did have to cut away my staysail track for two screws. I am mounting it on deck rather than in the locker as I want to be able to use it manually should I lose power. I will be running a rode of 80' of 5/16 chain and 150' of 9/16 nylon 3-strand. The biggest hassle is mounting the roller on the bow. I am buying a stock roller and having a stainless plate in the shape of the stemnhead fitting welded to the bottom; that will be tapped into the stemhead. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, what type/brand etc. of windlass are you going with? also can you tell us about the mounting location? Thanks Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 At pool Stage finally... Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 10:20 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Securing seat locker I ask this as I am about to mount my windlass switch and breaker in there, next to my batteries and charger. The wrong wave could ruin my whole paycheck! Obviously, not a huge factor with coastal cruising, but if I head offshore... Andy CC 40 Peregrine ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windlass info
Andy, thanks; I could not find any info on a V2; how does it differ from the V1 and V3? Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 At pool Stage finally... Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 10:44 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Securing seat locker It's a Lewmar V-2 and I am mounting it on deck, just aft of the anchor locker hatch, where there is just enough room. I did have to cut away my staysail track for two screws. I am mounting it on deck rather than in the locker as I want to be able to use it manually should I lose power. I will be running a rode of 80' of 5/16 chain and 150' of 9/16 nylon 3-strand. The biggest hassle is mounting the roller on the bow. I am buying a stock roller and having a stainless plate in the shape of the stemnhead fitting welded to the bottom; that will be tapped into the stemhead. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, what type/brand etc. of windlass are you going with? also can you tell us about the mounting location? Thanks Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 At pool Stage finally... Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List EVA foam deck nonskid
Cockpit seems like a good use for it. Dennis C. On Aug 3, 2015 5:57 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks Dennis, That stuff looks like the decks added to surfboards and SUPs. I might do my cockpit with it? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md -- *From: *Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To: *CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com *Cc: *Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com *Sent: *Saturday, August 1, 2015 11:32:15 AM *Subject: *Stus-List EVA foam deck nonskid As part of a project on a client's boat, I was looking at EVA foam decking. There's some interesting stuff out there. The list has often mentioned KiwiGrip to replace nonskid. Some of the hardcore racers in my area are using the foam decking. You can even buy pre-cut kits for some popular racers (Melges, Viper, etc.). Not a lot of color or surface choices yet. However you can get camo. You can also get sheets and cut for your own application. Here's some providers, there are more. http://www.raptordeck.com/ http://www.seadek.com/ Couple racers said they really like raptor deck. It's cool, grippy and comfortable. Said lots of time they race barefoot on it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Lloyd Lippe update
BTW, I just got an email from Lloyd Lippe, who started out earlier in the season headed from the Texas coast to points east on his Landfall 39. He made it to Key West after a stop-over for maintenance, then headed up to Marathon and Key Largo. He hopped from Largo over to Bimini, and has now arrived in the Abacos, where he plans to sit out the rest of hurricane season before exploring some more. His new instruments are reportedly working great; his favorite thing is having the AIS transponder on the boat, so he can see all the commercial shipping and they can see him. I’m not sure he regularly watches the list any more, so I’m taking the liberty of posting this. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 and backbone wiring
Hi, Chuck. As far as power goes, run the 8AWG positive cable through the appropriately-sized breaker on your DC panel (I seem to recall they spec a 10-amp breaker…) and run the 8AWG negative cable to the same point behind your DC panel where all the rest of the negative wires connect; this should have a decently-sized conductor to the negative battery terminal(s), as well as some kind of connection to the engine block. You MUST use marine-grade tinned stranded cable for this; if you’re having issues finding some, let me know and I can dig through my stock and see what I’ve got, then terminate it properly for you. 8AWG requires the use of large terminals and a proper crimper. AS far as the SeaTalkNG bus goes, the backbone cables come in two- and three-meter lengths, which would work for your use; I can get those for you, if you need them. You probably won’t have much luck trading them. And I don’t think TefGel is necessary on the connections for the SeaTalkNG network; those plugs have O-rings and fit very tightly, so you should be good. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 3, 2015, at 6:25 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I'm installing a new Raymarine EV-100 wheel autohelm and could use some advice? This kit uses a series of cables that plug together via a backbone cable, tees and spurs. The papers say: It needs an 8 gage ground wire as a reference and a drain. Can be run to negative bus. Would a ground terminal strip be better and connect that to the engine block? All 8 gage wire stranded, maybe? The kit came with a 16 ft long backbone cable. The distance between devices are 8 ft, and 6 ft. I'd like to avoid hiding a coil of extra cable. Can I trade this at a Raymarine dealer for a few shorter backbone cables? Should I use TefGel on the connections or keep em dry? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Lloyd Lippe update
Yesstill enjoy and have learned so much from the list. Fred is correctI wanted to let him know that all the electronics he suggested had indeed worked perfectly and was so happy to have them and wanted him to know how much I appreciated all is help. The AIS is the best safety investment for the money. Lloyd Lippe Landfall 39 From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Sent: Monday, August 3, 2015 7:41 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Stus-List Lloyd Lippe update BTW, I just got an email from Lloyd Lippe, who started out earlier in the season headed from the Texas coast to points east on his Landfall 39. He made it to Key West after a stop-over for maintenance, then headed up to Marathon and Key Largo. He hopped from Largo over to Bimini, and has now arrived in the Abacos, where he plans to sit out the rest of hurricane season before exploring some more. His new instruments are reportedly working great; his favorite thing is having the AIS transponder on the boat, so he can see all the commercial shipping and they can see him. I’m not sure he regularly watches the list any more, so I’m taking the liberty of posting this. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 and backbone wiring
I'm installing a new Raymarine EV-100 wheel autohelm and could use some advice? This kit uses a series of cables that plug together via a backbone cable, tees and spurs. The papers say: It needs an 8 gage ground wire as a reference and a drain. Can be run to negative bus. Would a ground terminal strip be better and connect that to the engine block? All 8 gage wire stranded, maybe? The kit came with a 16 ft long backbone cable. The distance between devices are 8 ft, and 6 ft. I'd like to avoid hiding a coil of extra cable. Can I trade this at a Raymarine dealer for a few shorter backbone cables? Should I use TefGel on the connections or keep em dry? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List EVA foam deck nonskid
I am also thinking about doing my cockpit as I find it slippery when healed over. Does anyone have a sense of how the smooth compares to the routed surface for traction? Dave On Aug 3, 2015, at 6:57 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks Dennis, That stuff looks like the decks added to surfboards and SUPs. I might do my cockpit with it? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com Sent: Saturday, August 1, 2015 11:32:15 AM Subject: Stus-List EVA foam deck nonskid As part of a project on a client's boat, I was looking at EVA foam decking. There's some interesting stuff out there. The list has often mentioned KiwiGrip to replace nonskid. Some of the hardcore racers in my area are using the foam decking. You can even buy pre-cut kits for some popular racers (Melges, Viper, etc.). Not a lot of color or surface choices yet. However you can get camo. You can also get sheets and cut for your own application. Here's some providers, there are more. http://www.raptordeck.com/ http://www.seadek.com/ Couple racers said they really like raptor deck. It's cool, grippy and comfortable. Said lots of time they race barefoot on it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List EVA foam deck nonskid
Thanks Dennis, That stuff looks like the decks added to surfboards and SUPs. I might do my cockpit with it? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com Sent: Saturday, August 1, 2015 11:32:15 AM Subject: Stus-List EVA foam deck nonskid As part of a project on a client's boat, I was looking at EVA foam decking. There's some interesting stuff out there. The list has often mentioned KiwiGrip to replace nonskid. Some of the hardcore racers in my area are using the foam decking. You can even buy pre-cut kits for some popular racers (Melges, Viper, etc.). Not a lot of color or surface choices yet. However you can get camo. You can also get sheets and cut for your own application. Here's some providers, there are more. http://www.raptordeck.com/ http://www.seadek.com/ Couple racers said they really like raptor deck. It's cool, grippy and comfortable. Said lots of time they race barefoot on it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List baby stay on a 38Mk2
So I just went up there again to fix the steaming light, and the crack is less than an inch. I'm thinkingof just keepig an eye on it to make sure it doesn't expand. If I do dynema I have to make sure shackles and thimbles are rated for same strength. Is a 1/4 stainless thimble same rating as 1/4 dyneema, 7200lbs? On Aug 3, 2015 5:21 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I bet the Dyneema will do the trick easily. That's what I would do. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 4:29 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2. It is a ¼” 1/19 wire braid. I am asking b/c I discovered a crack at the swage on the mast end. Crack is pretty good, about 1.5” longitudinal. I’m weighing in the following options 1. Send to rigger and have him swage identical replacement (likely no sailing this weekend) 2. Get sta-lock or norseman terminals and swage it myself, I have spare ¼” wire rope. 3. Use some of the Dyneema SK78 7mm line I have to make a babystay. Its 7200lbs and I originally bought it for my running backstays. A while back I added an inner forestay with ¼” wire rope, and running backstays so I have support at the second spreader, but if I leave it for the offseason, this crack will linger in the back of my mind every time I head out. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, July 27, 2015 8:45 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike *Subject:* Re: Stus-List winches Harold Larger diameter sheets maybe? Is there any relation to Andrew and Karen Higginbottom in Nova Scotia? Mike Persistence (currently in Cape Breton) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List *Sent:* Saturday, July 25, 2015 2:42 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* patricia barkley-higginbottom *Subject:* Stus-List winches Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my 35-3 which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are three wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a predictable fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a common problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a replacement part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are relatively new, and only one winch has this problem. Harold Celtic Spirit Hamilton, ON. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Lloyd Lippe update
The AIS Fred sold me was a big help while cruising for two months this summer. I contacted some boats by name, and some contacted me by name. Better choice than radar. Thanks Fred Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR His new instruments are reportedly working great; his favorite thing is having the AIS transponder on the boat, so he can see all the commercial shipping and they can see him. I’m not sure he regularly watches the list any more, so I’m taking the liberty of posting this. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+
Mine cost only $500, but the main problem was frilling of the blades. The main body was still good. PYI is good, but at that price point for a rebuild I'd be looking at new. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:50, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Jim, I just dropped my prop off at PYI to be looked over. Mine was still working but one blade was a nasty orange color and the hub had lost a lot of material… though not enough to not keep it together. How bad was yours that was repairable? Dave M. On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the same deal with my MaxProp, except all my zincs fell off. This was before I was Enlightened to dead-blow hammers and critical painting of zincs. It cost $500 US, but the guys at PYI did a great job of rebuilding the prop. Two weeks and half a boat unit is a cheap option. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:24, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It appears that the zincs got replaced on my drive shaft but not my Maxprop!!! Needless to say my prop is shot and I am looking at either another of the same or other options. I am hoping that some one out there with the same or similar boat can weigh in on whether the Maxprop or something else is recommended. I have a 3GM30 and ever since I bought this boat several years ago I have felt there was a bit too much vibration and not enough speed. If I take the engine up to about 2700 rpm’s my boat speed is only around 5 to 5 1/4 knots. The prop has always performed adequately but not great. Maybe the pitch etc. is off. Looking also at the Variprop which supposedly has the least drag of all 3 blades and can be adjusted much easier than the Maxprop. Thoughts, ideas, what are you other 34+ owners using? Thanks, Dave M. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+
When you put a zinc on the shaft, there is normally a bit of slack in the whole assembly. This is usually fixed by whacking the zinc with a hammer to seat it on the shaft. Unless you back up the other side of the shaft with something relatively immobile, you stand a chance of bending the shaft. So, you hold a BFH (large hammer) on the back end of the zinc when you whack it. The thinnest part of the zinc is at the bridge between the two halves, so if you liberally coat those surfaces with paint, nail polish, or whatever, the zincs will not vanish and leave you with no protection. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 23:25, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Jim, hate to sound like a total boob as compared to my normal boobness, but what are you referring to in both the dead blow hammers and painting of zincs?? I am interested… Dave On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the same deal with my MaxProp, except all my zincs fell off. This was before I was Enlightened to dead-blow hammers and critical painting of zincs. It cost $500 US, but the guys at PYI did a great job of rebuilding the prop. Two weeks and half a boat unit is a cheap option. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:24, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It appears that the zincs got replaced on my drive shaft but not my Maxprop!!! Needless to say my prop is shot and I am looking at either another of the same or other options. I am hoping that some one out there with the same or similar boat can weigh in on whether the Maxprop or something else is recommended. I have a 3GM30 and ever since I bought this boat several years ago I have felt there was a bit too much vibration and not enough speed. If I take the engine up to about 2700 rpm’s my boat speed is only around 5 to 5 1/4 knots. The prop has always performed adequately but not great. Maybe the pitch etc. is off. Looking also at the Variprop which supposedly has the least drag of all 3 blades and can be adjusted much easier than the Maxprop. Thoughts, ideas, what are you other 34+ owners using? Thanks, Dave M. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Summer Cruise, Speed and Sticky Situation
I figured out how to fix the speed sensor and clean the bottom at the same time. Just motor put into the Straights of Juan de Fuca into 6' swells and 20 kt winds and they both get done at the same time. Cruising speed went up aa full knot and the flaky speed sensor is now dead on accurate. Go figure. We also got some brush and roller cleaner from the paint department at the local hardware and were able to scrub the sticky goo off the power cord , then, on the advice of one of TGA sailing forms, applied s little dry silicon lube and it looks like new. Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:47 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Message: 11 Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2015 22:43:00 -0700 From: Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com To: 1 CnC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Summer Cruise, Speed and Sticky Situation Message-ID: ca+jz0feycw-82w8vffyzsqxmy4wvjmaevcxllboxqz_bta6...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I installed mine backwards once... Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 18:56, Bill Coleman via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: My BG speed has been erratic, slow readings or none - discovered a missing fin on the paddle wheel. Bill Coleman CC 39 Erie (with an incredible light show out over the lake over Canada) Original message From: Graham Collins via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08/02/2015 8:23 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Graham Collins cnclistforw...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Summer Cruise, Speed and Sticky Situation Hi Tom The ST60 - I had this issue, it was oddly sensitive to direction - by turning the sensor very slightly it would spring into action. Another lister, who will not be named, had the same issue but it was because his (boat) bottom had 1.5 inches of mussel growth on it. The speed wheel would get wet, but that was about it. As for the cord it sounds like the outer skin has age/UV-itis. Does it sit out in the sun a lot? It is a terminal disease, no cure. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2015-08-02 5:02 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote: We are on day two of out annual 3 weeks in the San Juan and Gulf Islands, We'll be in Port Townsend tonight and then working our way to the Rendezvous on Thetis next weekend. If anyone is in the area let me know. You can text me on my cell 305.409.3660 if you're close. Some wierdness with the speed reading on our Raymarine ST60. If I spin it I get a reading but in water reading are either missing or AFU. I'll be testing to see if it is the sender or the head or possible just the wiring. Our AC power cable has developed some sort of skin condition. It feels like someone applied a coating of adhesive to it. The 12' extension we have for it does not have this issue. Anyone have an idea of what the deal is with this? thx Tom B .???`???,??,???`??`???,??,???`???. Tom Lynn Buscaglia SV Alera CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 Cell (305) 409-3660 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windlass info
Andrew wrote: Nope, just the gypsy. I like the low profile on the deck. the gypsy will handle both rope and chain. Yup. Give me a moment, I'll get to the point. I just gave away the ATN Gale Sail that Fred gave (sold) me many years ago. I've been through enough slop on this boat to know that by the time I need to rig that thing the *last* place I want to be is up on the foredeck. And I've also sailed this boat through enough slop to know how to handle it under reefed main alone. The LF38 handles pretty well. So why give the sail away? Well, I gave it to a local dude who runs the North Sails shop down here, does the weather every day on the VHF net, and will always be a friend. Friends are hard to find, although in this internet/social networking world the word 'friend' has been seriously diluted. Oh, but to the point regarding windlasses. When I gave the sail away, and was asked why, I made the comment about the foredeck being the last place I want to be. Then I muttered something about breaking my teeth on the windlass. The folks who understood laughed. To take it full circle to the point, I agree with Andrew's comment about the value of a low profile. Wal ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List baby stay on a 38Mk2
I bet the Dyneema will do the trick easily. That's what I would do. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 4:29 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2. It is a ¼” 1/19 wire braid. I am asking b/c I discovered a crack at the swage on the mast end. Crack is pretty good, about 1.5” longitudinal. I’m weighing in the following options 1. Send to rigger and have him swage identical replacement (likely no sailing this weekend) 2. Get sta-lock or norseman terminals and swage it myself, I have spare ¼” wire rope. 3. Use some of the Dyneema SK78 7mm line I have to make a babystay. Its 7200lbs and I originally bought it for my running backstays. A while back I added an inner forestay with ¼” wire rope, and running backstays so I have support at the second spreader, but if I leave it for the offseason, this crack will linger in the back of my mind every time I head out. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, July 27, 2015 8:45 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike *Subject:* Re: Stus-List winches Harold Larger diameter sheets maybe? Is there any relation to Andrew and Karen Higginbottom in Nova Scotia? Mike Persistence (currently in Cape Breton) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List *Sent:* Saturday, July 25, 2015 2:42 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* patricia barkley-higginbottom *Subject:* Stus-List winches Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my 35-3 which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are three wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a predictable fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a common problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a replacement part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are relatively new, and only one winch has this problem. Harold Celtic Spirit Hamilton, ON. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+
I assume your Maxprop is a 3 blade? I have that setup on my 34+ with the same engine. At 2700 rpm we do about 6.5 to 6.75 knots pretty regularly, No issues with vibration, seems to be good power and good reverse power. Sorry I don't know offhand the pitch or size of the prop. That's my Maxprop experience, FWIW. Cheers From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 10:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. David Montgomery Subject: Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+ Jim, I just dropped my prop off at PYI to be looked over. Mine was still working but one blade was a nasty orange color and the hub had lost a lot of material. though not enough to not keep it together. How bad was yours that was repairable? Dave M. On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the same deal with my MaxProp, except all my zincs fell off. This was before I was Enlightened to dead-blow hammers and critical painting of zincs. It cost $500 US, but the guys at PYI did a great job of rebuilding the prop. Two weeks and half a boat unit is a cheap option. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:24, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It appears that the zincs got replaced on my drive shaft but not my Maxprop!!! Needless to say my prop is shot and I am looking at either another of the same or other options. I am hoping that some one out there with the same or similar boat can weigh in on whether the Maxprop or something else is recommended. I have a 3GM30 and ever since I bought this boat several years ago I have felt there was a bit too much vibration and not enough speed. If I take the engine up to about 2700 rpm's my boat speed is only around 5 to 5 1/4 knots. The prop has always performed adequately but not great. Maybe the pitch etc. is off. Looking also at the Variprop which supposedly has the least drag of all 3 blades and can be adjusted much easier than the Maxprop. Thoughts, ideas, what are you other 34+ owners using? Thanks, Dave M. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+
Hi Jim, hate to sound like a total boob as compared to my normal boobness, but what are you referring to in both the dead blow hammers and painting of zincs?? I am interested… Dave On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the same deal with my MaxProp, except all my zincs fell off. This was before I was Enlightened to dead-blow hammers and critical painting of zincs. It cost $500 US, but the guys at PYI did a great job of rebuilding the prop. Two weeks and half a boat unit is a cheap option. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:24, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It appears that the zincs got replaced on my drive shaft but not my Maxprop!!! Needless to say my prop is shot and I am looking at either another of the same or other options. I am hoping that some one out there with the same or similar boat can weigh in on whether the Maxprop or something else is recommended. I have a 3GM30 and ever since I bought this boat several years ago I have felt there was a bit too much vibration and not enough speed. If I take the engine up to about 2700 rpm’s my boat speed is only around 5 to 5 1/4 knots. The prop has always performed adequately but not great. Maybe the pitch etc. is off. Looking also at the Variprop which supposedly has the least drag of all 3 blades and can be adjusted much easier than the Maxprop. Thoughts, ideas, what are you other 34+ owners using? Thanks, Dave M. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Refrigerator Fan...
So I did buy an O2Cool fan before I asked the question. I was all kinds of happy thinking I found an easy solution that di not involve wires etc. The fan is designed a s a clam-shell. So I opened it and placed on on the evaporator plate upside with the battery half on inside (between the icebox wall and the evaporator) and the fan half on the outside. Worked great for 36 hours (on low) until the batteries died.But given the comments below, would the proximity of the batteries so close to the evaporator plate reduce their capacity and therefore cause premature death? Thanks for help solving another oh-so-perplexing, oh-so-important-problem. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2015 22:38:12 + To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigerator Fan... From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: cscheaf...@comcast.net David, O2 Cool makes a 5 battery powered fan I use in my boat. We use it in many places on board. I bought a few of them over the years and have one at home. The batteries last a long time. Many times I have left the thing on and it ran for days before I noticed it was on. I'm sure there are many other brands just as capable and I would suggest buying something cheap and try it out. Mine have an AC/DC adapter so you could tie it into your shore power or inverter power. I carry spare batteries aboard because I have battery flashlights, headlamps, LED puck reading lights in the berths, and a light inside my ice box. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC CNC cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David davidrisc...@msn.com Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2015 2:46:34 PM Subject: Stus-List Refrigerator Fan... My new refrigeration is doing quite well. However I would like to better circulate air within the box to equalize temps. Trying to avoid hard wiring and want to know if anyone has found a low amp battery powered fan that I can turn on when needed without a lot installation hoopla... Thanks in advance. David F. Risch 1981 40- (401) 419-4650 (cell) ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+
Yes, it is a 3 blade and I run it at the same 2700 rpm’s. Yet to get to 6.5 knots or more would take plenty more rpms! If you by chance figure out which prop you have (size) and what the pitch is I would love to know. Hopefully (dear God!!) PYI can find enough left of mine to repair. On Aug 2, 2015, at 11:14 PM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I assume your Maxprop is a 3 blade? I have that setup on my 34+ with the same engine. At 2700 rpm we do about 6.5 to 6.75 knots pretty regularly, No issues with vibration, seems to be good power and good reverse power. Sorry I don’t know offhand the pitch or size of the prop. That’s my Maxprop experience, FWIW. Cheers From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 10:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. David Montgomery Subject: Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+ Jim, I just dropped my prop off at PYI to be looked over. Mine was still working but one blade was a nasty orange color and the hub had lost a lot of material… though not enough to not keep it together. How bad was yours that was repairable? Dave M. On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the same deal with my MaxProp, except all my zincs fell off. This was before I was Enlightened to dead-blow hammers and critical painting of zincs. It cost $500 US, but the guys at PYI did a great job of rebuilding the prop. Two weeks and half a boat unit is a cheap option. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:24, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It appears that the zincs got replaced on my drive shaft but not my Maxprop!!! Needless to say my prop is shot and I am looking at either another of the same or other options. I am hoping that some one out there with the same or similar boat can weigh in on whether the Maxprop or something else is recommended. I have a 3GM30 and ever since I bought this boat several years ago I have felt there was a bit too much vibration and not enough speed. If I take the engine up to about 2700 rpm’s my boat speed is only around 5 to 5 1/4 knots. The prop has always performed adequately but not great. Maybe the pitch etc. is off. Looking also at the Variprop which supposedly has the least drag of all 3 blades and can be adjusted much easier than the Maxprop. Thoughts, ideas, what are you other 34+ owners using? Thanks, Dave M. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windlass info
Here you go: https://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8338lid=25807 On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:52 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, thanks; I could not find any info on a V2; how does it differ from the V1 and V3? Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 At pool Stage finally... Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 10:44 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Securing seat locker It's a Lewmar V-2 and I am mounting it on deck, just aft of the anchor locker hatch, where there is just enough room. I did have to cut away my staysail track for two screws. I am mounting it on deck rather than in the locker as I want to be able to use it manually should I lose power. I will be running a rode of 80' of 5/16 chain and 150' of 9/16 nylon 3-strand. The biggest hassle is mounting the roller on the bow. I am buying a stock roller and having a stainless plate in the shape of the stemnhead fitting welded to the bottom; that will be tapped into the stemhead. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:32 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, what type/brand etc. of windlass are you going with? also can you tell us about the mounting location? Thanks Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 At pool Stage finally... Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windlass info
Thanks, I take it that you have the drum version? Richard Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 11:06 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info Here you go: https://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8338lid=25807 Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List '88 CC 30 MKII Stiff Rudder
Gents, I have a 1989 CC 30 II and my steering became stiff and squeaky. The solution was to remove the cover atop the emergency tiller fitting and then lubricate the rudder post from above. To do so, I just sprayed a luttle 3 in 1 oil around where the rudder post mates with the collar. There might be a better lubricant than 3 in 1. Perhaps spray lithium grease - I'm not sure. Anyway, I have not had any problems with the 3 in 1. Robert H. 1989 CC 30 MKII Original message From: Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08-03-2015 7:05 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair blairalcl...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List '88 CC 30 MKII Stiff Rudder Rob I have a 1088 CC 30 MK !! as well and I had the same problem 2 years ago. After some help from the list I found a grease nipple on the raised portion of the hull where the rudder post goes through the hull and into the water. I filled with grease as I could see grease coming up along the flange collar inside the boat around the shaft and all was well. This year I am not using the boat much due to recovering from a broken leg. Now the wheel is very stiff and noisy and I have emptied two greased barrels into the grease fitting. Grease is going into the water but not upwards and out around flange like it did last time. Noise and stiffness is still there. It seems like there is noise also coming from where the top of the shaft is mounted to the floor of the transom. I do not know how to grease this. Any thoughts to help me out will be appreciated. please respond to bcl...@classicfreight.ca if you do not mind. Blair Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of Robert Gallagher trys...@gmail.com Sent: December 21, 2012 12:58 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List '88 CC 30 MKII Stiff Rudder The rudder on my new (to me) '88 30MKII is very hard to turn. It's not the steering, I have removed the cables and the wheel turns freely. I'm pretty confident it's the rudder binding. When shopping, I had a deposit on another 30 MKII and it had the same problem. The yard fixed it but never elaborated on exactly what it was. I do know that it did not involve removing the rudder and that the broker eluded to the fact that something at the top of the shaft was cleaned and greased. I did inspect the boat again and they did fix it. I did try greasing it via the zirk fitting but that did not seem to help. It does not appear that the post is bent. I'm hoping someone else will have had this problem in the past and can give me some guidance before I start taking things apart. I'm really hoping not to have to remove the rudder. Thanks Rob Gallagher '88 CC 30 MKII Hanuman ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windlass info
Nope, just the gypsy. I like the low profile on the deck. the gypsy will handle both rope and chain. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:16 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks, I take it that you have the drum version? Richard Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 11:06 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info Here you go: https://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8338lid=25807 Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+
Thanks Jim, got call back from PYI this morning and for $1395 they can repair my prop which turns out to be a 15”. Now I need to decide whether to go new or rebuilt which they contend will be as-good-as-new though it won’t win any beauty contests!! Dr. David W. Montgomery 425-827-5095 This is a CONFIDENTIAL COMMUNICATION. This transmission belongs to the sender and is legally privileged and bound by Federal Law 42CFR and the Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act (HIPAA). It is intended only for the use of the individual(s) to whom it is addressed. If you are not that intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or the taking of any action in reliance on the content of this e-mail is strictly prohibited. Privacy and confidentiality cannot be guaranteed with information shared over the Internet. Your use of email with this practitioner indicates your understanding and acceptance of privacy and confidentiality limitations through Internet transmission. On Aug 3, 2015, at 9:39 AM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Checked a couple of surveys but neither mentioned the size or pitch. I am hauling out in Sept so could check then. Ciao From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 11:22 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. David Montgomery Subject: Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+ Yes, it is a 3 blade and I run it at the same 2700 rpm’s. Yet to get to 6.5 knots or more would take plenty more rpms! If you by chance figure out which prop you have (size) and what the pitch is I would love to know. Hopefully (dear God!!) PYI can find enough left of mine to repair. On Aug 2, 2015, at 11:14 PM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I assume your Maxprop is a 3 blade? I have that setup on my 34+ with the same engine. At 2700 rpm we do about 6.5 to 6.75 knots pretty regularly, No issues with vibration, seems to be good power and good reverse power. Sorry I don’t know offhand the pitch or size of the prop. That’s my Maxprop experience, FWIW. Cheers From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 10:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. David Montgomery Subject: Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+ Jim, I just dropped my prop off at PYI to be looked over. Mine was still working but one blade was a nasty orange color and the hub had lost a lot of material… though not enough to not keep it together. How bad was yours that was repairable? Dave M. On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the same deal with my MaxProp, except all my zincs fell off. This was before I was Enlightened to dead-blow hammers and critical painting of zincs. It cost $500 US, but the guys at PYI did a great job of rebuilding the prop. Two weeks and half a boat unit is a cheap option. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:24, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It appears that the zincs got replaced on my drive shaft but not my Maxprop!!! Needless to say my prop is shot and I am looking at either another of the same or other options. I am hoping that some one out there with the same or similar boat can weigh in on whether the Maxprop or something else is recommended. I have a 3GM30 and ever since I bought this boat several years ago I have felt there was a bit too much vibration and not enough speed. If I take the engine up to about 2700 rpm’s my boat speed is only around 5 to 5 1/4 knots. The prop has always performed adequately but not great. Maybe the pitch etc. is off. Looking also at the Variprop which supposedly has the least drag of all 3 blades and can be adjusted much easier than the Maxprop. Thoughts, ideas, what are you other 34+ owners using? Thanks, Dave M. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff
remove the through bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder post/emergency tiller point. Remove the plastic bearing and lubricate. Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and retest until you are happy with the results. It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and through bolts. But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend. Maybe I'd still have the monkey? Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. trys...@gmail.com Rob ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff
I'd remove the plate and spray some PB Blaster on the post and work it in. It might dissolve some of the old dried up lubricant. (I used it to clean winches). Then lube and re-assemble. My 2 cents. Joel On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 1:03 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: remove the through bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder post/emergency tiller point. Remove the plastic bearing and lubricate. Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and retest until you are happy with the results. It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and through bolts. But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend. Maybe I'd still have the monkey? Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. trys...@gmail.com Rob ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windlass info
Andy, it may be too late for you… :^( but if anyone else on the list is looking at Lewmar windlasses, I can source them from my electronics supplier. The cost savings could be significant. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 3, 2015, at 10:56 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Haven't made it that far yet. Right now I just have a couple of holes in my foredeck. I will probably just use a tupperware box sealed on around it for now and then build something decent out of aluminum that I can screw in place and bed with butyl tape. Andy CC 40 Peregrine ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+
I have a 3 blade Max-prop that came with my boat. I can’t her absolutely sure, but the quote for the prop in the documents I got from the PO recommended a 15” with pitch of 8.1” at 16° so I presume that is what I have and it has worked great. Dave On Aug 3, 2015, at 2:22 AM, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes, it is a 3 blade and I run it at the same 2700 rpm’s. Yet to get to 6.5 knots or more would take plenty more rpms! If you by chance figure out which prop you have (size) and what the pitch is I would love to know. Hopefully (dear God!!) PYI can find enough left of mine to repair. On Aug 2, 2015, at 11:14 PM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I assume your Maxprop is a 3 blade? I have that setup on my 34+ with the same engine. At 2700 rpm we do about 6.5 to 6.75 knots pretty regularly, No issues with vibration, seems to be good power and good reverse power. Sorry I don’t know offhand the pitch or size of the prop. That’s my Maxprop experience, FWIW. Cheers From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 10:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. David Montgomery Subject: Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+ Jim, I just dropped my prop off at PYI to be looked over. Mine was still working but one blade was a nasty orange color and the hub had lost a lot of material… though not enough to not keep it together. How bad was yours that was repairable? Dave M. On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the same deal with my MaxProp, except all my zincs fell off. This was before I was Enlightened to dead-blow hammers and critical painting of zincs. It cost $500 US, but the guys at PYI did a great job of rebuilding the prop. Two weeks and half a boat unit is a cheap option. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:24, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It appears that the zincs got replaced on my drive shaft but not my Maxprop!!! Needless to say my prop is shot and I am looking at either another of the same or other options. I am hoping that some one out there with the same or similar boat can weigh in on whether the Maxprop or something else is recommended. I have a 3GM30 and ever since I bought this boat several years ago I have felt there was a bit too much vibration and not enough speed. If I take the engine up to about 2700 rpm’s my boat speed is only around 5 to 5 1/4 knots. The prop has always performed adequately but not great. Maybe the pitch etc. is off. Looking also at the Variprop which supposedly has the least drag of all 3 blades and can be adjusted much easier than the Maxprop. Thoughts, ideas, what are you other 34+ owners using? Thanks, Dave M. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff
Yep thats Rob...useless and funny. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 17:13:41 + Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: blairalcl...@hotmail.com That is useful and funnythank you Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of Robert Gallagher via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: August 3, 2015 2:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Gallagher Subject: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff remove the through bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder post/emergency tiller point. Remove the plastic bearing and lubricate. Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and retest until you are happy with the results. It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and through bolts. But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend. Maybe I'd still have the monkey? Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. trys...@gmail.com Rob ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff
Blair, Rob (below) described the correct way to tackle the problem. I was going to use my 11 year old daughter as my spider monkey, but I tried lubricating without disassembly and it worked (at least for me). The cover that I referred to is simply the white plastic (nylon?) cap that covers access to the tiller fitting. Perhaps your cap is missing or stowed? As I said, Rob describes how to do the job properly, but I managed to fix my problem without disassembly and my daughter still speaks to me. Robert H. Original message From: Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08-03-2015 10:13 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair blairalcl...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff That is useful and funnythank you Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of Robert Gallagher via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: August 3, 2015 2:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Gallagher Subject: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff remove the through bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder post/emergency tiller point. Remove the plastic bearing and lubricate. Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and retest until you are happy with the results. It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and through bolts. But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend. Maybe I'd still have the monkey? Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. trys...@gmail.com Rob ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mast tuning
Hi Monty- Thanks for pointing that out. I had read it a while ago, but forgot about it. One thing I still find confusing is the backstay. With the split wire backstay, no matter where you have the car, it is putting tension on the mast. The amount of tension would depend on the tightness of the turnbuckles in the back. So in what state do you measure the rake? With the backstay removed or with the adjuster in its loosest position? Once adjusted, how does one set those rear turnbuckles? Dave On Aug 2, 2015, at 9:44 AM, Monty Schumpert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: David, Check out the article Rod Rigging -- Generic Tuning by Greg Cutter in the Do It Yourself section of the CC Photo Album and Resource Center. I'm going through the same process after re-stepping the mast on my 34+ this spring. Monty Scandia 1991 CC 34+ Annapolis, MD On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 11:59 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I took a good look at my furler, mast, shrouds and stays yesterday preparatory to trying to do some mast tuning. I am unsure as to the best way of going about this process and could use some advice. I found that I was raked somewhere between 18 and 24 inches aft, which is much too far by all accounts, so I want to bring the mast back to 6-12 inches. I have read the guides, but it is the specifics of different mast/shroud/stay combinations is what I am unsure about. It was more straightforward on my previous 34. My mast has no adjustment possible at the base or through deck unlike my old one. As near as I can tell, it is all done with shrouds and stays. The backstay is a split wire with a pinching car that runs up and down to control backstay tension. The backstay wires runs to two turnbuckles on the transom. The spreaders are only slightly swept back but the rod shrouds run to a position just behind the mast. One runs to the top of the mast and the other part way up, both passing through the same point on the lower spreader. The top ones are extremely tight, with no flex/sag on the leeward side when sailing upwind. The lowers are a bit less tight but still no sag. There is a third rod, which I am forgetting where it terminates on the mast, but presumably lower down. Forestay is on a Harken furler. So how to proceed (or wait for the Rendezvous and get all the great minds together for a tuning session!) 1. Should I disconnect the backstay before doing anything with the shrouds? The car on the split stay can only go so high without running out of wire, so even at its topmost position, it is putting some tension on the backstay. I can tie another line to it and let it run up further but it makes more sense to me to remove them altogether or loosen the turnbuckles as much as possible. 2. Presumably, I would then loosen all the shrouds and then tighten the bolt on the furler to bring the mast forward, then recheck rake after tightening the shrouds somewhat? 3. After adjusting rake, how would the tension of the backstay be adjusted? Presumably minimal tension with the car at its topmost position?The tightness of those turnbuckles is going to affect the amount of tension the adjuster is able to generate, so that would seem an important adjustment, but I have not seen any guide to how to set that. 4. When to check the rake? With the backstay loose/disconnected or in its nominal highest position? 5. One thought I have had is that before doing any of the above actions, I should recheck the rake with the backstay removed just to see if it makes any significant difference. I know they were removed to take the boat out of the water last fall and again in the spring, so how the yard guys re-tensioned them I have no idea and I have not further adjusted them. Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Windlass info
… use a tupperware box sealed on around it.. I did this when installing a Lewmar Ocean 2 windlass on Calypso’s foredeck approx. 6’ back from the stem. I do recommend cutting some drain and ventilation holes in the Tupperware box to prevent trapping salt water in and around the motor/gearbox. On Calypso’s installation salt water drips off the chain/rode and can splash around the motor/gear box area. The hawse pipe (approx. 4” fiberglass tube) is not long enough to prevent all the splash near the motor even with the Tupperware in place. With Calypso’s 24K lb. displacement increasing the risk of deck damage from anchor handling loads we added a fiberglass beam under the windlass and an additional bulkhead at the forward end of the anchor locker. The additional structure prevents that long section of deck from distorting under full windlass load. Calypso was built as a full race boat (1969/70 style) with no consideration for cruising style anchoring gear. We converted the empty space forward of the fo’c'sle (v-berth/sail stowage area) into a deep anchor locker and fender storage space. The conversion included cutting out a section the deck for an access hatch approx. 3’ long by a tapered 2’ to 1’ wide. As part of the ongoing deck restoration project I have custom fabricated a gutter to help prevent water on the foredeck from dripping into the anchor locker. I should have done this back when the conversion was first done (1999) but I thought weather stripping would be sufficient. It was not. After 14 years of use the windlass motor/gear box needs repainting and the some of the wiring requires replacement owing to the corrosive environment. I am satisfied with the Lewmar windlass and its performance. When cruising we use 90’ of chain, 300’ of rode on a 65lb. CQR main anchor. We do have the windlass model with a drum for line handling which has been used for hoisting me up the mast but not much else. The drum does add extra height which is less desirable when racing but useful when sailing shorthanded on a heavy displacement boat. For the bow roller we went with a custom fabrication, 2 rollers mounted in a SS frame (3 vertical plates welded to the base plate, all polished to look like chrome) bolted through the stem fitting including a plate that runs down the stem for 2 or 3 bolts and aft along the hull to deck joint 3 to 4 bolts. I did remove some of the toe rail’s vertical structure leaving the horizontal aluminum as support underneath the roller’s base plate. Calypso’s (along with the other 43’s) stem fitting is different than most CC production models and is not a cast aluminum fitting but was a compact SS structure. Martin DeYoung Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle [Description: Description: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List Sent: Monday, August 03, 2015 8:57 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info Haven't made it that far yet. Right now I just have a couple of holes in my foredeck. I will probably just use a tupperware box sealed on around it for now and then build something decent out of aluminum that I can screw in place and bed with butyl tape. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:52 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Me too! : also, what did you do below decks for the motor housing? Thanks! Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255tel:502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.commailto:a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 11:46 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info happy to share! On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:29 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, Love to see the pattern for the roller mount. Might even steal it if you look the other way... David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff
On a serious note, please disconnect shore power before sending the monkey down below. The 110 volt wires run right into the area where he'll be working.Robert H. Original message From: Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08-03-2015 10:54 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair blairalcl...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 C 30 MKII Stiff I have a 13year old boy who is about to put your and Rob's theory to the test Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of RPH via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: August 3, 2015 2:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: RPH Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff Blair, Rob (below) described the correct way to tackle the problem. I was going to use my 11 year old daughter as my spider monkey, but I tried lubricating without disassembly and it worked (at least for me). The "cover" that I referred to is simply the white plastic (nylon?) cap that covers access to the tiller fitting. Perhaps your cap is missing or stowed? As I said, Rob describes how to do the job properly, but I managed to fix my problem without disassembly and my daughter still speaks to me. Robert H. Original message From: Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08-03-2015 10:13 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair blairalcl...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff That is useful and funnythank you Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of Robert Gallagher via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: August 3, 2015 2:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Gallagher Subject: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff remove the throughbolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder post/emergency tiller point. Remove the "plastic" bearing and lubricate. Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did,and retest until you are happy with the results. It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and through bolts. But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend. Maybe I'd still have the monkey? Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. trys...@gmail.com Rob ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+
THANK YOU DAVE!! I will use those numbers as a starting point. Question, with those settings what speed does your boat achieve at around 2700 RPM (I know that we may have different boats but…). Thanks again! DAve M. On Aug 3, 2015, at 9:55 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a 3 blade Max-prop that came with my boat. I can’t her absolutely sure, but the quote for the prop in the documents I got from the PO recommended a 15” with pitch of 8.1” at 16° so I presume that is what I have and it has worked great. Dave On Aug 3, 2015, at 2:22 AM, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes, it is a 3 blade and I run it at the same 2700 rpm’s. Yet to get to 6.5 knots or more would take plenty more rpms! If you by chance figure out which prop you have (size) and what the pitch is I would love to know. Hopefully (dear God!!) PYI can find enough left of mine to repair. On Aug 2, 2015, at 11:14 PM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I assume your Maxprop is a 3 blade? I have that setup on my 34+ with the same engine. At 2700 rpm we do about 6.5 to 6.75 knots pretty regularly, No issues with vibration, seems to be good power and good reverse power. Sorry I don’t know offhand the pitch or size of the prop. That’s my Maxprop experience, FWIW. Cheers From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 10:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. David Montgomery Subject: Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+ Jim, I just dropped my prop off at PYI to be looked over. Mine was still working but one blade was a nasty orange color and the hub had lost a lot of material… though not enough to not keep it together. How bad was yours that was repairable? Dave M. On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the same deal with my MaxProp, except all my zincs fell off. This was before I was Enlightened to dead-blow hammers and critical painting of zincs. It cost $500 US, but the guys at PYI did a great job of rebuilding the prop. Two weeks and half a boat unit is a cheap option. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:24, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It appears that the zincs got replaced on my drive shaft but not my Maxprop!!! Needless to say my prop is shot and I am looking at either another of the same or other options. I am hoping that some one out there with the same or similar boat can weigh in on whether the Maxprop or something else is recommended. I have a 3GM30 and ever since I bought this boat several years ago I have felt there was a bit too much vibration and not enough speed. If I take the engine up to about 2700 rpm’s my boat speed is only around 5 to 5 1/4 knots. The prop has always performed adequately but not great. Maybe the pitch etc. is off. Looking also at the Variprop which supposedly has the least drag of all 3 blades and can be adjusted much easier than the Maxprop. Thoughts, ideas, what are you other 34+ owners using? Thanks, Dave M. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+
Checked a couple of surveys but neither mentioned the size or pitch. I am hauling out in Sept so could check then. Ciao From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 11:22 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. David Montgomery Subject: Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+ Yes, it is a 3 blade and I run it at the same 2700 rpm's. Yet to get to 6.5 knots or more would take plenty more rpms! If you by chance figure out which prop you have (size) and what the pitch is I would love to know. Hopefully (dear God!!) PYI can find enough left of mine to repair. On Aug 2, 2015, at 11:14 PM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I assume your Maxprop is a 3 blade? I have that setup on my 34+ with the same engine. At 2700 rpm we do about 6.5 to 6.75 knots pretty regularly, No issues with vibration, seems to be good power and good reverse power. Sorry I don't know offhand the pitch or size of the prop. That's my Maxprop experience, FWIW. Cheers From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 10:51 PM To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. David Montgomery Subject: Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+ Jim, I just dropped my prop off at PYI to be looked over. Mine was still working but one blade was a nasty orange color and the hub had lost a lot of material. though not enough to not keep it together. How bad was yours that was repairable? Dave M. On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the same deal with my MaxProp, except all my zincs fell off. This was before I was Enlightened to dead-blow hammers and critical painting of zincs. It cost $500 US, but the guys at PYI did a great job of rebuilding the prop. Two weeks and half a boat unit is a cheap option. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:24, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It appears that the zincs got replaced on my drive shaft but not my Maxprop!!! Needless to say my prop is shot and I am looking at either another of the same or other options. I am hoping that some one out there with the same or similar boat can weigh in on whether the Maxprop or something else is recommended. I have a 3GM30 and ever since I bought this boat several years ago I have felt there was a bit too much vibration and not enough speed. If I take the engine up to about 2700 rpm's my boat speed is only around 5 to 5 1/4 knots. The prop has always performed adequately but not great. Maybe the pitch etc. is off. Looking also at the Variprop which supposedly has the least drag of all 3 blades and can be adjusted much easier than the Maxprop. Thoughts, ideas, what are you other 34+ owners using? Thanks, Dave M. ___ Email address: mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff
That is useful and funnythank you Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of Robert Gallagher via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: August 3, 2015 2:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Gallagher Subject: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff remove the through bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder post/emergency tiller point. Remove the plastic bearing and lubricate. Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and retest until you are happy with the results. It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and through bolts. But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend. Maybe I'd still have the monkey? Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. trys...@gmail.commailto:trys...@gmail.com Rob ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+
Hi Dave- The boat makes about 6.5 knots in normal conditions with the throttle fully open (Universal M4-30). Not sure I trust the tachometer given other discussions on the listserv, so I don’t look at it too often. I will try to remember to take a look next time and report back. Dave On Aug 3, 2015, at 12:58 PM, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: THANK YOU DAVE!! I will use those numbers as a starting point. Question, with those settings what speed does your boat achieve at around 2700 RPM (I know that we may have different boats but…). Thanks again! DAve M. On Aug 3, 2015, at 9:55 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a 3 blade Max-prop that came with my boat. I can’t her absolutely sure, but the quote for the prop in the documents I got from the PO recommended a 15” with pitch of 8.1” at 16° so I presume that is what I have and it has worked great. Dave On Aug 3, 2015, at 2:22 AM, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes, it is a 3 blade and I run it at the same 2700 rpm’s. Yet to get to 6.5 knots or more would take plenty more rpms! If you by chance figure out which prop you have (size) and what the pitch is I would love to know. Hopefully (dear God!!) PYI can find enough left of mine to repair. On Aug 2, 2015, at 11:14 PM, David Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I assume your Maxprop is a 3 blade? I have that setup on my 34+ with the same engine. At 2700 rpm we do about 6.5 to 6.75 knots pretty regularly, No issues with vibration, seems to be good power and good reverse power. Sorry I don’t know offhand the pitch or size of the prop. That’s my Maxprop experience, FWIW. Cheers From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 10:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. David Montgomery Subject: Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+ Jim, I just dropped my prop off at PYI to be looked over. Mine was still working but one blade was a nasty orange color and the hub had lost a lot of material… though not enough to not keep it together. How bad was yours that was repairable? Dave M. On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had the same deal with my MaxProp, except all my zincs fell off. This was before I was Enlightened to dead-blow hammers and critical painting of zincs. It cost $500 US, but the guys at PYI did a great job of rebuilding the prop. Two weeks and half a boat unit is a cheap option. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 2 August 2015 at 22:24, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: It appears that the zincs got replaced on my drive shaft but not my Maxprop!!! Needless to say my prop is shot and I am looking at either another of the same or other options. I am hoping that some one out there with the same or similar boat can weigh in on whether the Maxprop or something else is recommended. I have a 3GM30 and ever since I bought this boat several years ago I have felt there was a bit too much vibration and not enough speed. If I take the engine up to about 2700 rpm’s my boat speed is only around 5 to 5 1/4 knots. The prop has always performed adequately but not great. Maybe the pitch etc. is off. Looking also at the Variprop which supposedly has the least drag of all 3 blades and can be adjusted much easier than the Maxprop. Thoughts, ideas, what are you other 34+ owners using? Thanks, Dave M. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff
I have a 13year old boy who is about to put your and Rob's theory to the test [] Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of RPH via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: August 3, 2015 2:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: RPH Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff Blair, Rob (below) described the correct way to tackle the problem. I was going to use my 11 year old daughter as my spider monkey, but I tried lubricating without disassembly and it worked (at least for me). The cover that I referred to is simply the white plastic (nylon?) cap that covers access to the tiller fitting. Perhaps your cap is missing or stowed? As I said, Rob describes how to do the job properly, but I managed to fix my problem without disassembly and my daughter still speaks to me. Robert H. Original message From: Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08-03-2015 10:13 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair blairalcl...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff That is useful and funnythank you Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of Robert Gallagher via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: August 3, 2015 2:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Gallagher Subject: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff remove the through bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder post/emergency tiller point. Remove the plastic bearing and lubricate. Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and retest until you are happy with the results. It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and through bolts. But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend. Maybe I'd still have the monkey? Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. trys...@gmail.commailto:trys...@gmail.com Rob ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff (Now stuff)
While the other CC 30mkII listers are tuned in, I am looking to replace my main soon and looking for a decent used one. If you have a back up that's not all blown out or you are thinking about replacing your current one soon, let me know...I am in the market. Thanks! Kevin On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:12 AM RPH via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On a serious note, please disconnect shore power before sending the monkey down below. The 110 volt wires run right into the area where he'll be working. Robert H. Original message From: Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08-03-2015 10:54 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair blairalcl...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff I have a 13year old boy who is about to put your and Rob's theory to the test [image: ] Blair Clark 902-423-4651 -- *From:* CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of RPH via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* August 3, 2015 2:35 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* RPH *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff Blair, Rob (below) described the correct way to tackle the problem. I was going to use my 11 year old daughter as my spider monkey, but I tried lubricating without disassembly and it worked (at least for me). The cover that I referred to is simply the white plastic (nylon?) cap that covers access to the tiller fitting. Perhaps your cap is missing or stowed? As I said, Rob describes how to do the job properly, but I managed to fix my problem without disassembly and my daughter still speaks to me. Robert H. Original message From: Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08-03-2015 10:13 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair blairalcl...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff That is useful and funnythank you Blair Clark 902-423-4651 -- *From:* CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of Robert Gallagher via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* August 3, 2015 2:03 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Robert Gallagher *Subject:* Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff remove the through bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder post/emergency tiller point. Remove the plastic bearing and lubricate. Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and retest until you are happy with the results. It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and through bolts. But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend. Maybe I'd still have the monkey? Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. trys...@gmail.com Rob ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC Rendezvous
Stu, I whole heartedly agree. We really enjoyed coming to Toronto from Kalamazoo, Michigan for a rendezvous. Always enjoyed meeting George Cuthbertson (and the hat I got for coming from the farthest distance). Don't miss a chance to meet some of the people that you have come to know from the list. And, thanks again, Stu. Neil Schiller 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 (CC 35, Mark I) Corsair On 8/2/2015 2:54 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote: Years ago when I owned a CC, I was fortunate enough to attend (and help organize) rendezvous for CC Owners. Included events took us to both the East and West coasts as well as several on the Great Lakes. Many of the events are still fresh in memory and will not be forgotten. It is a chance of a lifetime to put faces on names you see everyday, listen to some fantastic sailing experiences and view first hand the custom modifications owners have made on their CC Yachts. It is not an easy job planning these events and many, many hours are spent making things go right – from securing a place to hold it, organizing a schedule and meals to suit everyone and praying nightly to King Neptune for great weather. Don’t think twice about going – just go and enjoy the familiar camaraderie that CC owners are famous for. Take the family as I am sure there is something for everybody. All the best to the organizers – you deserve a lot credit for your efforts. Stu ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Refrigerator Fan...
The batteries are probably still OK, and have perhaps half their life remaining if used at room temperature. But the chemical reaction of the battery slows down as the temperature is reduced (just like in your car during the winter). The O2 fans I have on the boat for airflow on hot nights typically last for about 10 days of use for 6-8 hours per night. Try leaving the clamshell closed and laying the fan on top of the contents of the fridge. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List Sent: Monday, August 03, 2015 3:55 AM To: CNC CNC cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David davidrisc...@msn.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigerator Fan... So I did buy an O2Cool fan before I asked the question. I was all kinds of happy thinking I found an easy solution that di not involve wires etc. The fan is designed a s a clam-shell. So I opened it and placed on on the evaporator plate upside with the battery half on inside (between the icebox wall and the evaporator) and the fan half on the outside. Worked great for 36 hours (on low) until the batteries died.But given the comments below, would the proximity of the batteries so close to the evaporator plate reduce their capacity and therefore cause premature death? Thanks for help solving another oh-so-perplexing, oh-so-important-problem. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) _ Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2015 22:38:12 + To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigerator Fan... From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: cscheaf...@comcast.net mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net David, O2 Cool makes a 5 battery powered fan I use in my boat. We use it in many places on board. I bought a few of them over the years and have one at home. The batteries last a long time. Many times I have left the thing on and it ran for days before I noticed it was on. I'm sure there are many other brands just as capable and I would suggest buying something cheap and try it out. Mine have an AC/DC adapter so you could tie it into your shore power or inverter power. I carry spare batteries aboard because I have battery flashlights, headlamps, LED puck reading lights in the berths, and a light inside my ice box. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md _ From: David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC CNC cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David davidrisc...@msn.com mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2015 2:46:34 PM Subject: Stus-List Refrigerator Fan... My new refrigeration is doing quite well. However I would like to better circulate air within the box to equalize temps. Trying to avoid hard wiring and want to know if anyone has found a low amp battery powered fan that I can turn on when needed without a lot installation hoopla... Thanks in advance. David F. Risch 1981 40- (401) 419-4650 (cell) ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Securing seat locker
Like most of us, I think about taking my boat offshore one day. One of my 4AM quandaries is what to do about my seat locker. It has a huge hatch and nothing in the way of gaskets to keep water out. If a wave filled the cockpit, as has happened to me on many occasions in nasty weather, there is not much to keep water from pouring into the boat. I have some ideas, but I'd be curious to know how others have addressed this problem. David Risch? Andy CC 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List '88 CC 30 MKII Stiff Rudder
Rob I have a 1088 CC 30 MK !! as well and I had the same problem 2 years ago. After some help from the list I found a grease nipple on the raised portion of the hull where the rudder post goes through the hull and into the water. I filled with grease as I could see grease coming up along the flange collar inside the boat around the shaft and all was well. This year I am not using the boat much due to recovering from a broken leg. Now the wheel is very stiff and noisy and I have emptied two greased barrels into the grease fitting. Grease is going into the water but not upwards and out around flange like it did last time. Noise and stiffness is still there. It seems like there is noise also coming from where the top of the shaft is mounted to the floor of the transom. I do not know how to grease this. Any thoughts to help me out will be appreciated. please respond to bcl...@classicfreight.ca if you do not mind. Blair Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of Robert Gallagher trys...@gmail.com Sent: December 21, 2012 12:58 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List '88 CC 30 MKII Stiff Rudder The rudder on my new (to me) '88 30MKII is very hard to turn. It's not the steering, I have removed the cables and the wheel turns freely. I'm pretty confident it's the rudder binding. When shopping, I had a deposit on another 30 MKII and it had the same problem. The yard fixed it but never elaborated on exactly what it was. I do know that it did not involve removing the rudder and that the broker eluded to the fact that something at the top of the shaft was cleaned and greased. I did inspect the boat again and they did fix it. I did try greasing it via the zirk fitting but that did not seem to help. It does not appear that the post is bent. I'm hoping someone else will have had this problem in the past and can give me some guidance before I start taking things apart. I'm really hoping not to have to remove the rudder. Thanks Rob Gallagher '88 CC 30 MKII Hanuman ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List 39 Days to the CC 2015 Northeast Rendezvous (Sept. 11-13, 2015 in Clinton, CT)
Listers, Just 39 days to go to the CC 2015 Northeast Rendezvous — See cnc2015.com http://cnc2015.com/. Floating private dock Power / Water Pool / Hot Tub Recreation Area Ship’s Store / Mechanics on Site Shopping Shuttle to Premium Outlet Mall Close to Trains and Route 1 in Clinton, CT Group Dinners including Waterfront Restaurant Group Buffet Reserve Online at cnc2015.com http://cnc2015.com/ Special Surprise Guest Attending 7 CCs with 17 attendees have signed up so far. Don’t miss this great opportunity to put faces to the names, see other’s modifications, and enjoy the camaraderie of CC owners! All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Securing seat locker
Andy, Due to the nature of the locker rim and lid lip design I tried and failed with a few gaskets. I just secured the hasp offshore and was prepared to live with whatever water got down there. We have been pooped before, but I don't remember if it caused an undo amount of water ingress through the cockpit locker. I was more worried about gasketing and securing the washboard. Love to hear others thoughts on this one too... David F. Risch 1981 40 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 08:34:20 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Securing seat locker From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Like most of us, I think about taking my boat offshore one day. One of my 4AM quandaries is what to do about my seat locker. It has a huge hatch and nothing in the way of gaskets to keep water out. If a wave filled the cockpit, as has happened to me on many occasions in nasty weather, there is not much to keep water from pouring into the boat. I have some ideas, but I'd be curious to know how others have addressed this problem. David Risch? Andy CC 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Securing seat locker
Andy, Same method here. (Never been pooped, just pooped on) Passed inspection for Bermuda - lid just had to be secure, not watertight. Joel On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 9:59 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, Due to the nature of the locker rim and lid lip design I tried and failed with a few gaskets. I just secured the hasp offshore and was prepared to live with whatever water got down there. We have been pooped before, but I don't remember if it caused an undo amount of water ingress through the cockpit locker. I was more worried about gasketing and securing the washboard. Love to hear others thoughts on this one too... David F. Risch 1981 40 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 08:34:20 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Securing seat locker From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Like most of us, I think about taking my boat offshore one day. One of my 4AM quandaries is what to do about my seat locker. It has a huge hatch and nothing in the way of gaskets to keep water out. If a wave filled the cockpit, as has happened to me on many occasions in nasty weather, there is not much to keep water from pouring into the boat. I have some ideas, but I'd be curious to know how others have addressed this problem. David Risch? Andy CC 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Universal Diesel Maintenance Supplies
Listers, It’s CC-List Auction time again. I have: 4 Oil Filters (FRAM PH3593A) 6 Quarts of Rotella T1 SAE30 Oil 3 Belts (universal 300817) Bidding starts at $20 (The oil alone is worth $36). All proceeds beyond my shipping costs will go towards some extra food/drink for the first night’s dinner at the CC 2015 Northeast Rendezvous and a donation to Stu for keeping the site/list going. Bidding will end at noon ET on Monday, August 10. All new, in boxes, never used. Can’t use any of it in my new Beta 30. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Securing seat locker
I ask this as I am about to mount my windlass switch and breaker in there, next to my batteries and charger. The wrong wave could ruin my whole paycheck! Obviously, not a huge factor with coastal cruising, but if I head offshore... Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:07 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, Same method here. (Never been pooped, just pooped on) Passed inspection for Bermuda - lid just had to be secure, not watertight. Joel On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 9:59 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andy, Due to the nature of the locker rim and lid lip design I tried and failed with a few gaskets. I just secured the hasp offshore and was prepared to live with whatever water got down there. We have been pooped before, but I don't remember if it caused an undo amount of water ingress through the cockpit locker. I was more worried about gasketing and securing the washboard. Love to hear others thoughts on this one too... David F. Risch 1981 40 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 08:34:20 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Securing seat locker From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com Like most of us, I think about taking my boat offshore one day. One of my 4AM quandaries is what to do about my seat locker. It has a huge hatch and nothing in the way of gaskets to keep water out. If a wave filled the cockpit, as has happened to me on many occasions in nasty weather, there is not much to keep water from pouring into the boat. I have some ideas, but I'd be curious to know how others have addressed this problem. David Risch? Andy CC 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List baby stay on a 38Mk2
Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2. It is a ¼ 1/19 wire braid. I am asking b/c I discovered a crack at the swage on the mast end. Crack is pretty good, about 1.5 longitudinal. Im weighing in the following options 1. Send to rigger and have him swage identical replacement (likely no sailing this weekend) 2. Get sta-lock or norseman terminals and swage it myself, I have spare ¼ wire rope. 3. Use some of the Dyneema SK78 7mm line I have to make a babystay. Its 7200lbs and I originally bought it for my running backstays. A while back I added an inner forestay with ¼ wire rope, and running backstays so I have support at the second spreader, but if I leave it for the offseason, this crack will linger in the back of my mind every time I head out. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 27, 2015 8:45 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Hoyt, Mike Subject: Re: Stus-List winches Harold Larger diameter sheets maybe? Is there any relation to Andrew and Karen Higginbottom in Nova Scotia? Mike Persistence (currently in Cape Breton) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 2:42 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: patricia barkley-higginbottom Subject: Stus-List winches Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my 35-3 which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are three wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a predictable fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a common problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a replacement part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are relatively new, and only one winch has this problem. Harold Celtic Spirit Hamilton, ON. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List baby stay on a 38Mk2
Replaced the one on my 35/3 with wire, but if I had the dyneema lying around I would have done a DIY. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 4:29 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2. It is a ¼” 1/19 wire braid. I am asking b/c I discovered a crack at the swage on the mast end. Crack is pretty good, about 1.5” longitudinal. I’m weighing in the following options 1. Send to rigger and have him swage identical replacement (likely no sailing this weekend) 2. Get sta-lock or norseman terminals and swage it myself, I have spare ¼” wire rope. 3. Use some of the Dyneema SK78 7mm line I have to make a babystay. Its 7200lbs and I originally bought it for my running backstays. A while back I added an inner forestay with ¼” wire rope, and running backstays so I have support at the second spreader, but if I leave it for the offseason, this crack will linger in the back of my mind every time I head out. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, July 27, 2015 8:45 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike *Subject:* Re: Stus-List winches Harold Larger diameter sheets maybe? Is there any relation to Andrew and Karen Higginbottom in Nova Scotia? Mike Persistence (currently in Cape Breton) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List *Sent:* Saturday, July 25, 2015 2:42 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* patricia barkley-higginbottom *Subject:* Stus-List winches Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my 35-3 which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are three wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a predictable fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a common problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a replacement part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are relatively new, and only one winch has this problem. Harold Celtic Spirit Hamilton, ON. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List baby stay on a 38Mk2
Petar, If this functions the same the baby stay on the 35-3, you should be able to sail without it - no need to miss out on sailing this weekend... Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 4:29 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2. It is a ¼” 1/19 wire braid. I am asking b/c I discovered a crack at the swage on the mast end. Crack is pretty good, about 1.5” longitudinal. I’m weighing in the following options 1. Send to rigger and have him swage identical replacement (likely no sailing this weekend) 2. Get sta-lock or norseman terminals and swage it myself, I have spare ¼” wire rope. 3. Use some of the Dyneema SK78 7mm line I have to make a babystay. Its 7200lbs and I originally bought it for my running backstays. A while back I added an inner forestay with ¼” wire rope, and running backstays so I have support at the second spreader, but if I leave it for the offseason, this crack will linger in the back of my mind every time I head out. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, July 27, 2015 8:45 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike *Subject:* Re: Stus-List winches Harold Larger diameter sheets maybe? Is there any relation to Andrew and Karen Higginbottom in Nova Scotia? Mike Persistence (currently in Cape Breton) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List *Sent:* Saturday, July 25, 2015 2:42 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* patricia barkley-higginbottom *Subject:* Stus-List winches Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my 35-3 which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are three wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a predictable fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a common problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a replacement part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are relatively new, and only one winch has this problem. Harold Celtic Spirit Hamilton, ON. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
