Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Ryan,

 

Your paint job looks great! I just saw this post because I am about to attempt 
the same thing on my 33 foot three quarter tonner and did a search on the topic 
in this forum. Thank you for the information.

 

I have researched the roll and tip method and also found some pretty good 
instructional videos. That will be the method I use. One issue I had is my 
waterline. It is correct in it’s placement on the boat but the last painter did 
a terrible job with it – both the boot top and the line between topsides and 
bottom paint are wavy and need to be removed and re-done. I recently figured 
out how to deal with that thanks to a great video by a shipwright so I am about 
ready to tackle this. I just need to measure and record the position of the 
existing water line on the bow and stern points and with that will be able lay 
down a new water line.

 

I will also be painting my deck and toe rails. 

 

Have you launched your boat yet. I know it is early but how does the paint seem 
to be holding up 

 

Burt

 

1971 33-3 quarter tonner

On the hard in Walpole, MA USA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 1:53 PM
To: davidjaco...@comcast.net
Cc: Ryan Doyle; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote

 

Hey Dave,  

 

Thanks!  I'm ball parking, but I'd say this is approximately how long each 
portion took. 

 

1.5 hrs to tape off the boat

4 hrs to sand initially with 150 grit

2 hrs to prime 

(New day)

2 hrs to sand primer 

1.5 hrs to prime 

(New day)

2 hrs to sand primer again

2 hrs for first finish coat

(New day)

.75 hrs to sand

1.5 hrs for second finish coat

(New day)

.75 hrs to sand

1.5 hrs for final finish coat

(New day)

3 hrs total to tape off and do a couple coats of paint on the stripes and 
stars.  You could also do these with a stencil (but I just used bits and pieces 
of tape)





If my math is right, that's a total of about 22.5 hrs.  This was spread out 
over a couple of weeks.

 

 


On Jun 6, 2016, at 4:27 AM, davidjaco...@comcast.net wrote:

Ryan.
Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the paint 
job?
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI

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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have a 74' 33-foot three quarter tonner, which I believe is the same hull
and sail plan as the MK-1. I do believe my keel is longer, though. She draws
6'6" and the MK-1 is listed at 5'6".  Layout is different but I don't think
that would have much effect on performance. It is a superbly stiff and
stable ride on Narragansett Bay, which is not a lot different from Buzzards
Bay. She handles 20kts easily.gusts, too - even close hauled and points
extremely well.  I would recommend that boat any day. Something like that
would also probably fit in the budget. I would trade mine for an MK-1 just
for the far more comfortable layout and headroom forward.

 

Burt

On the hard in Walpole, MA

Waiting for paint and other projects

Hoping for a spring launch 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:36 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

 

A good friend of mine would like to buy their first "big boat".  We sail out
of Buzzards Bay which I affectionately call the "Washing Machine" resulting
from the Bay's shallow water and strong afternoon S'Westerlies.   

Their budget is around 15K and because of the aforementioned washing
machine, need a stiff boat around the 30-34' size.  In addition to size, if
my memory is correct there are certain "Marques" within a specific size
range (33?) which are stiffer than others and would be better suited to the
area.  

So what size and what "Mark" version do you folks think would be
appropriate?

Thanks in advance!


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2015 14:04:44 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com

There's a C 40 here on Lake Ontario named "Vatican II
 " that's been for sale for a while. It's a centerboard
model and nicely outfitted for cruising. Any connection?

Has a big crucifix on both sides. Not really my cup of tea but unique
anyway.

 

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 6:00 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List
 wrote:

My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C 27...and the brand.
The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was called
Vatican.

Andy

C 40

Peregrine

 

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List
 wrote:

My first boat, C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold Flying
Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still carries
that name.

 

My new boat, C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.  Talk
about a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a
bridge, marina, or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to
Mystic I changed the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like
the name myself, but anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded
them of home.

 

So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple enough and I'm still
amused that most folks can't pronounce it, nor spell it.  HA NEW MAN.

 

Hanuman is a very prevalent character in the Ramayana and his picture is
probably hanging on the wall in every Indian restaurant in the world.
Millions of kids watch him in cartoons.  He's carved into every early
Buddhist/Hindu temple across Asia.  I just happen to be on the wrong side of
the world now and I guess I spent to much time in Asia.

 

Oddly enough, Hanuman is also the namesake of one of the J Class yachts.
The owner has spinnaker graphics similar to the tattoo on my leg. :)
Fortunately, I had the tattoo longer so I can say he stole my idea..lol
It's the Khmer version of Hanuman carved into the the temples of Cambodia,
Laos, Thailand and Burma/Myanmar.

 

Anyway, the Ramayana is one of those books everyone should read, or at least
try to, once in their life.

 

I hope I didn't put anyone to sleep with this tale

 

Rob

C 30 MKII

HANUMAN

Noank, CT

 

 

 

 

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-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260


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Re: Stus-List boat names

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Whiteys?

 

Love that Toronto is so culturally diverse and literally nothing offends me but 
hypocrisy. Imagine if the proudly progressive people up there heard someone use 
the term “blackys”.

 

Where’s the outrage?

 

Sorry, couldn’t resist.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 9:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat names

 

A host on a radio show I listen to shares the same name, I kept hearing it 
every day and it finally clicked "that's going on the list". We kept a long 
list on a shared google doc for months, maybe over a year, I can't remember. It 
was a process of elimination. We picked a name we thought was pretty, simple as 
that. When we looked it up:

 

"Suhana" means "pleasing," "charming" and "lovely" in Hindi. 

"Suhana" means "pleasant" in Urdu. 

"Suhana" is a star in Arabic.

 

so it worked too (astronomy is my other 'thing') and of course, I didn't spend 
all this money on something I didn't think was pleasing, charming and lovely. 

 

Toronto is a very multicultural place so while the old timer whiteys at the 
club don't get it (and insist on calling my boat "Susanna") I know there are 
people around that do. 

 

Someone on the list when I was going through this recommended three "A"s in a 
name. If I could do it over, I probably would have gone with Sahana.

 

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

 

On Thu, Sep 17, 2015 at 9:20 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I let my father do the work and just carried on his boat names; Raven for my 
Shields, and Peregrine after his C 27.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260


> On Sep 17, 2015, at 08:18, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
> Take your last boat name and throw a 2 after it ...
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 10:54 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: djhaug...@juno.com
> Subject: Stus-List boat names
>
> OK coming up with a new name for our new boat is proving very difficult.
>
> I thought I would throw it out to you guys for some ideas!
>
> Maybe you came across something sometime and thought wow what a great name 
> for a boat!
>
> I can't believe this is so difficult... Lol
>
> Danny
> ___
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>
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Re: Stus-List anchor roller

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Dwight,

I would be interested in those pic’s too. I have a 1976 33 - three quarter 
tonner, which is basically an MK I with a different deck and cockpit 
configuration and a deeper keel.

 

bstrat...@falconnect.com

 

Thanks,

Burt

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 7:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List anchor roller

 

Barbara

I would be happy to send you a few pictures of the bow roller on my 35 MKII but 
I know the files too large to send on the cnc email. My bow is not that 
different from your 33-1 and I don't think what I have ruins the look. Give me 
your personal email and I send them to you directly




Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net

 

 

On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 8:48 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Would some of y'all mind posting some pix of your bow/anchor rollers? With my 
toe rail, I've never been able to figure out exactly where the roller would go 
without ruining the look of my bow. The chain on my Fortress goes through 
either forward chock and gets cleated off. I pull my Fortress up by hand. Not a 
major deal but don't spend the night on the hook unless it's nice. Thanks!! 
Barbara L. Hickson

Flight Risk 

CC33-1 Hull No. 145

 

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone https://yho.com/footer0 

 


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Re: Stus-List Internet access on charter boat

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

The large carriers (ATT, Verizon) will allow you to use you phone as a wifi
hot spot. Basically like the wireless router in your house. In fact I
believe there has been legislation or new regulations recently that bars
them from making it a option. Everyone with a capable phone can become a
hotspot but you still pay for the data usage (which can be high).  That
would enable you wife to use her laptop or whatever she uses to do her
authoring thing like she were at home. Granted it is likely to be a little
slower. It will only work where you have cellular coverage and of course
there will be a cost associated with being out of country. You need to check
with them about using your phone and continuing data access while abroad. If
no cell coverage, put the novel down and relax for a while.

 

Best of luck. sounds like fun 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2015 12:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Internet access on charter boat

 

Some overseas friends of ours who are visiting just bought a SIM card for
their IPhone that gives them a U.S. Telephone number, unlimited calls and
data access (not sure if the limit on data) for a specified period. They
took 30 days. It's possible that you can buy a similar plan in Berlize.
You might want to check with your U.S. Cellphone company if your phone needs
to be unlocked before you go overseas. 

--

Jonathan

Indigo CC 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Jul 12, 2015, at 11:42, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

Hi- We are planning a January charter with friends in Belize and have never
done this before.  My wife is an author and might need Internet access while
we are on the boat, and I am sure there will be times we are out of any
local network.  What are the options for internet access in remote areas?
Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List CC 35 Mk II for sale

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

I would jump on that boat based on the pictures alone for that price…... If I 
had it ):  She will go fast (and sell quickly)

 

I’m sure we have seen her in our travels. It is exactly what my wife wants and 
she looks absolutely beautiful! I am planning a paint job on my 33 and suddenly 
red has become a consideration.

 

Good luck and congrats. 

 

Burt

1974 CC 33 three quarter tonner

On the hard in Walpole, MA

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Brad,

 

Losing a shaft is a pretty serious event. A 1 hole lets in a lot of water.
If that happens and you don't react quickly and correctly you are risking
the boat and all souls aboard. I would deal with that issue sooner than
later. My 2 cents

 

Burt

CC 33

MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brad
Crawford via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 2:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back in
and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling is a
little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8 of rotational movement on the shaft,
like possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set screws,
which secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is
movement of the coupling on the shaft.  It's been recommended that I have
the boat hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and provided
the shaft is ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the shaft, and then
reinstalled for a final alignment.  

 

My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a loose
coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

CnC 36

Seattle

 

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Re: Stus-List Teak oil suggestions?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Always kept mine blonde… No finish at all. Clean gently a couple times a year 
and sand smooth when necessary to remove any raised grain that could trap dirt. 
NEVER power wash. This is for exterior teak. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2015 12:47 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Teak oil suggestions?

 

Cetol. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 23 May 2015 at 09:39, davidrisch75 via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Done with sanding and varnish. What say you?

 

 

David F. Risch. 

 

Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent from my mobile device.  


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Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I would replace my water pump shaft seals. Can't hurt and might fix the
problem.

Burt
1974 CC 33 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Russo via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 2:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Russo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

Check to insure your engine block drain valves are tight before winter
storage. Second thought is weird but offered anyhow. Is antifreeze fresh?
Could there be a blockage somewhere where the antifreeze is diluted and
freezes which would expand and force the top stuff out somehow. I said it
was a weird thought! I will discuss it with the mechanic at the yard who is
pretty sharp and seen most things.

John
CC 32
Arpeggio  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Antifreeze Mystery

After the engine is winterized in the Fall, I place a plastic pan under
it.not sure why but I do.  Every Spring, there is approximately a half a
cup or 250 ml of antifreeze in the pan.

I have looked everywhere for the source of this antifreeze but I can't find
out where it is coming from.  The boat was launched 3 weeks ago, the engine
has about 3 hours on it since then, the pan is still under the engine but
there is no antifreeze in it.  And the antifreeze does not appear during the
sailing season.

I notice every Spring the level of the antifreeze in the 'overflow
container' is down a bit and I refill to the 'FULL LEVEL' but that container
is not leaking.  It's a mystery!

Anybody experience this and/or have any ideas where this antifreeze could be
originating from?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Thank you, Rick. This is very helpful.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs

 

Burt,

 

Check here for a PDF of the service manual and a parts list.

http://www.tartan34library.com/

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 CC 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: May-22-15 11:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Burt Stratton
Subject: Stus-List A-4 zincs

 

I am new to the ownership of an Atomic 4. So far it has been a very pleasant
experience. I am reasonably sure it is original to the boat. It has a couple
upgrades like electric fuel pump and electronic ignition (no points). Ran
great through a short season last year. No issues of any kind. Just needed
to figure out how to stop the boat and back her down with a two blade
folding prop.. lots of patience.

 

I do need to find and replace all the zincs, though. It is a raw water
cooled motor and no water heater in the cooling loop. Is there a document
available that will identify where I might find zincs on this motor? Maybe
an owners manual or service manual on line? I have an owners manual on the
boat but it is pretty beat up.

 

Burt

1974 CC 33-3 quarter tonner

On the hard in the back yard 

Walpole, MA

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5941 / Virus Database: 4347/9842 - Release Date: 05/22/15

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Stus-List A-4 zincs

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I am new to the ownership of an Atomic 4. So far it has been a very pleasant
experience. I am reasonably sure it is original to the boat. It has a couple
upgrades like electric fuel pump and electronic ignition (no points). Ran
great through a short season last year. No issues of any kind. Just needed
to figure out how to stop the boat and back her down with a two blade
folding prop.. lots of patience.

 

I do need to find and replace all the zincs, though. It is a raw water
cooled motor and no water heater in the cooling loop. Is there a document
available that will identify where I might find zincs on this motor? Maybe
an owners manual or service manual on line? I have an owners manual on the
boat but it is pretty beat up.

 

Burt

1974 CC 33-3 quarter tonner

On the hard in the back yard 

Walpole, MA

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Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Really?

 

That is surprising.

 

Danny,

I flush the engine after each use with fresh water. PO did, too. I think that 
helps a lot.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della 
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 10:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba
Subject: Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs

 

The A4 has no zincs unless FWC 

Sent from my iPhone


On May 22, 2015, at 10:30, Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Hi Burt,

 

Moyer Marine has a service and repair manual they sell for about $50.  It's 
worth it.

 

I'd also recommend a fresh water cooling kit to stop any more salt water 
running through your engine.  You can run a hotter thermostat to run the engine 
at a better temp.  Moyer sells a kit that adapts a pulley wheel to the front of 
the engine to run a mechanical pump and Indigo marine sells a kit with electric 
pumps if you don't have the room on the front of the engine for the pulley.  I 
installed the idigo kit with 2 electric pumps.  I plumbed it so if the running 
pump failed all I'd have to do is redirect flow with a diverter valve and 
install a fuse to run on the spare pump.  It was Tom Steven's idea from Indigo.

 

I don't have an answer for you on the zincs though.  Moyer forums are great 
resource as well.

 

As far as backing down or running in reverse, If you have the 1:1 ratio in 
forward and 2:1 ratio in reverse set up, you rev the heck out of it in reverse 
to get the same spin as in forward.  My boat had a Michigan Wheel Blue Dot 
2-blade folding prop and it went like a banshee in reverse but, I ran really 
high in the RPMs to do so.  It was even common practice to spin it up in 
reverse to open the prop and then pop into forward.  It worked well but it but 
a lot of stress on the drive train.  I ended up putting a the 3-blade prop on 
from indigo.  It gave me better RPMs in forward and I still had the rev the 
heck out of in reverse.  Nice prop and more kind to the drive train.  It did 
add some drag though but I don't race so I didn't care.  Still saw speeds in 
the 7s

 

Hope some of this is helpful...

 

Danny,

Still shopping in Massachusetts

-- Original Message --
From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Burt Stratton bstrat...@falconnect.com
Subject: Stus-List A-4 zincs
Date: Fri, 22 May 2015 10:11:37 -0400

I am new to the ownership of an Atomic 4. So far it has been a very pleasant 
experience. I am reasonably sure it is original to the boat. It has a couple 
upgrades like electric fuel pump and electronic ignition (no points). Ran great 
through a short season last year. No issues of any kind. Just needed to figure 
out how to stop the boat and back her down with a two blade folding prop…. lots 
of patience.

 

I do need to find and replace all the zincs, though. It is a raw water cooled 
motor and no water heater in the cooling loop. Is there a document available 
that will identify where I might find zincs on this motor? Maybe an owners 
manual or service manual on line? I have an owners manual on the boat but it is 
pretty beat up.

 

Burt

1974 CC 33-3 quarter tonner

On the hard in the back yard

Walpole, MA

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Re: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

(Some) power boats use good scuppers. Their exhaust outlets are usually very
close to the water line.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 12:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump

 

If I were you , I would install an anti-siphon loop first and then think of
the check valve.

 

Most of us don't sail in really heavy weather conditions, so this may not
apply, but I read somewhere about an issue of flooding the engine with water
(hydrolock) by the following seas. The guy ended up installing a manual
cut-off valve on the exit of his exhaust to prevent it. I guess this would
make sense only if you are making long enough passages.

 

Marek

1994 C270 Legato

Ottawa

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 9:12 AM

To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com  

Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com  

Subject: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump

 

We had a discussion a few years back about whether or not to have a check
valve on the bilge pump outlet hose and as a result, I removed the valve
from mine.  All has been fine since.  Yesterday, while motoring for a long
ways down the river, I noticed that the bilge was filling with water.  I
pumped it out and the water immediately returned.  I pulled the pump out of
the bilge, and water was pouring into the bilge through the pump.  When I
lifted it, the flow stopped so it seemed to be siphoning/flowing through the
bilge pump exit line, which is in the transom and when motoring, looks to be
under water.  I have not checked yet to see if there is an anti-siphon loop.
I am guessing that this is one of the functions of the one way valve that
was there before, but I can't figure out why it never happened before.  The
Whale 500 pump does not specifically say it has a check valve, but perhaps
it does and it stopped working?  I had an oil spill into the bilge last
winter and so maybe that is causing problems.  I plan to reinstall a check
valve in the line so this does not happen again.  Any other thoughts?
Thanks- Dave 

 

 

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT




 

  _  

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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

The sole in our 74' CC 33 is solid teak (~three quarter thick by ~2 inch
wide) floorboards. No Holly, just spaces between the teak and cross-members
below all morticed to keep the overall thickness consistent. It is original
to the boat. Looked like hell when we bought her. 2-part teak cleaner and a
lot of coats of tongue oil (yes tongue oil) and they still look like new
after a season of hard use. Very sturdy and durable design but not as
aesthetically pleasing as TH. Would probably be relatively easy to
fabricate. Makes it easy to see what you have in the bilge, too. 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 12:30 PM
To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cabin sole

We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This
is very likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East
Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of
stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2
inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
4x8 plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List cabin sole

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Scotch…

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 1:57 PM
To: Jim Watts; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole

 

Depends how much beer was spilled and how much is left in the cooler

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 2:55 PM
To: Burt Stratton; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List cabin sole

 

That would be tung oil unless you licked your floor a lot. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 14 April 2015 at 10:05, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

The sole in our 74' CC 33 is solid teak (~three quarter thick by ~2 inch
wide) floorboards. No Holly, just spaces between the teak and cross-members
below all morticed to keep the overall thickness consistent. It is original
to the boat. Looked like hell when we bought her. 2-part teak cleaner and a
lot of coats of tongue oil (yes tongue oil) and they still look like new
after a season of hard use. Very sturdy and durable design but not as
aesthetically pleasing as TH. Would probably be relatively easy to
fabricate. Makes it easy to see what you have in the bilge, too.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 12:30 PM
To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cabin sole

We are looking to replace the cabin sole in our Frers 33 this season.  It is
comprised of horizontal floors and covered by 3/4 inch teak and holly.  This
is very likely the same as many CCs.

To date I can source 1/2 inch Teak and Holly locally but there is no stock
and no known reorder date for 3/4 inch.  The two sources in Halifax are East
Coast Specialty Hardwood who have 1/4 and 1/2 inch in stock and are out of
stock on 3/4 and Halifax Specialty Hardwoods who only stock 1/4 and 1/2
inch.

This leaves me to try one of three options:

1- Source out of town 3/4 TH and pay for the shipping of a 78 lb piece of
4x8 plywood.

2- Use 1/2 inch in place of 3/4

3- Laminate 1/4 inch on top of 1/2 inch marine plywood.

And the always available 4th option.  Procrastinate and do this next year

Does anyone have any thoughts on this or know of other suppliers near
Halifax?

Regards

Mike Hoyt
1987 Frers 33
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List sealing through-hull

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

The seal should be between the outer hull and the part of the through-hull that 
contacts the outer part of the hull. A good bedding compound like 4200, sikalex 
or life caulk works well. I don’t seal the threads on the inside of the backing 
nut but that is your choice. My hull is solid glass, not cored so it doesn’t 
matter if water can get into the hole from the inside.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 9:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List sealing through-hull

 

Hi,

 

I have a question that may sound basic:

 

One of my through-hulls (drain for the head’s sink) started to leak last 
spring. I solved the issue temporarily by tightening it – the valve (seacock) 
screws onto the threaded through-hull. This spring I want to solve this problem 
permanently. 

 

I just went to the boat and disassembled the seacock/through-hull. To my 
surprise, I found no seal between the seacock and the through-hull. There is a 
beefy backing plate and the PO (I don’t think it is factory) put some silicone 
on it. But there is nothing there that is designed specifically to seal that 
joint.

 

Here is a link to a sketch of how this looks like (don’t lough at my drawing 
skills): https://www.dropbox.com/s/tgll2zglwvskdcr/throughhull.jpg?dl=0.

 

The question is how do you correctly seal the joint between the through-hull 
and the seacock. Both are Marelon. The seal is required on the threads of the 
through-hull or between the backing plate and the valve body (the red arrows in 
the picture show the spots).

 

An added difficulty is that the valve has a 90 degree elbow and it has to point 
up. So it is not necessarily possible to tighten the connection and to position 
the valve correctly.

 

I am thinking of making a seal that would fit between the valve body and the 
backing plate. However, the correct installation calls for securing the valve 
body to the backing plate with screws, so the seal should be between the 
threads.

 

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

 

thanks

 

Marek

1994, C270, s/v “Legato”

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Re: Stus-List sealing through-hull

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Ahhh. Teflon tape and – or a good plumbing brush on thread block pipe thread 
sealer.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 10:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List sealing through-hull

 

That part is solid. The seal is sound. But I had some leak between the thread 
of the through-hull and the thread (body) of the valve. This is what I need to 
seal.

 

Marek

 

From: Burt Stratton mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com  

Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 9:50 AM

To: 'Marek Dziedzic' mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: RE: Stus-List sealing through-hull

 

The seal should be between the outer hull and the part of the through-hull that 
contacts the outer part of the hull. A good bedding compound like 4200, sikalex 
or life caulk works well. I don’t seal the threads on the inside of the backing 
nut but that is your choice. My hull is solid glass, not cored so it doesn’t 
matter if water can get into the hole from the inside.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 9:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List sealing through-hull

 

Hi,

 

I have a question that may sound basic:

 

One of my through-hulls (drain for the head’s sink) started to leak last 
spring. I solved the issue temporarily by tightening it – the valve (seacock) 
screws onto the threaded through-hull. This spring I want to solve this problem 
permanently. 

 

I just went to the boat and disassembled the seacock/through-hull. To my 
surprise, I found no seal between the seacock and the through-hull. There is a 
beefy backing plate and the PO (I don’t think it is factory) put some silicone 
on it. But there is nothing there that is designed specifically to seal that 
joint.

 

Here is a link to a sketch of how this looks like (don’t lough at my drawing 
skills): https://www.dropbox.com/s/tgll2zglwvskdcr/throughhull.jpg?dl=0.

 

The question is how do you correctly seal the joint between the through-hull 
and the seacock. Both are Marelon. The seal is required on the threads of the 
through-hull or between the backing plate and the valve body (the red arrows in 
the picture show the spots).

 

An added difficulty is that the valve has a 90 degree elbow and it has to point 
up. So it is not necessarily possible to tighten the connection and to position 
the valve correctly.

 

I am thinking of making a seal that would fit between the valve body and the 
backing plate. However, the correct installation calls for securing the valve 
body to the backing plate with screws, so the seal should be between the 
threads.

 

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

 

thanks

 

Marek

1994, C270, s/v “Legato”

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Re: Stus-List sealing through-hull

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

You would have to read the label. I don’t know. I thought the through hull was 
metal. Just the Teflon tape should do the trick. Wrap it in the direction the 
valve will turn as you thread it on.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List sealing through-hull

 

Is the pipe dope (thread sealer) compatible with Marelon? Does anyone know? 

 

Btw. what is Marelon? ABS? PVC? Nylon? something completely different?

 

Marek

 

From: Burt Stratton mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com  

Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 10:46 AM

To: 'Marek Dziedzic' mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: RE: Stus-List sealing through-hull

 

Ahhh. Teflon tape and – or a good plumbing brush on thread block pipe thread 
sealer.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 10:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List sealing through-hull

 

That part is solid. The seal is sound. But I had some leak between the thread 
of the through-hull and the thread (body) of the valve. This is what I need to 
seal.

 

Marek

 

From: Burt Stratton mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com  

Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 9:50 AM

To: 'Marek Dziedzic' mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: RE: Stus-List sealing through-hull

 

The seal should be between the outer hull and the part of the through-hull that 
contacts the outer part of the hull. A good bedding compound like 4200, sikalex 
or life caulk works well. I don’t seal the threads on the inside of the backing 
nut but that is your choice. My hull is solid glass, not cored so it doesn’t 
matter if water can get into the hole from the inside.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2015 9:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List sealing through-hull

 

Hi,

 

I have a question that may sound basic:

 

One of my through-hulls (drain for the head’s sink) started to leak last 
spring. I solved the issue temporarily by tightening it – the valve (seacock) 
screws onto the threaded through-hull. This spring I want to solve this problem 
permanently. 

 

I just went to the boat and disassembled the seacock/through-hull. To my 
surprise, I found no seal between the seacock and the through-hull. There is a 
beefy backing plate and the PO (I don’t think it is factory) put some silicone 
on it. But there is nothing there that is designed specifically to seal that 
joint.

 

Here is a link to a sketch of how this looks like (don’t lough at my drawing 
skills): https://www.dropbox.com/s/tgll2zglwvskdcr/throughhull.jpg?dl=0.

 

The question is how do you correctly seal the joint between the through-hull 
and the seacock. Both are Marelon. The seal is required on the threads of the 
through-hull or between the backing plate and the valve body (the red arrows in 
the picture show the spots).

 

An added difficulty is that the valve has a 90 degree elbow and it has to point 
up. So it is not necessarily possible to tighten the connection and to position 
the valve correctly.

 

I am thinking of making a seal that would fit between the valve body and the 
backing plate. However, the correct installation calls for securing the valve 
body to the backing plate with screws, so the seal should be between the 
threads.

 

Any suggestions would be welcomed.

 

thanks

 

Marek

1994, C270, s/v “Legato”

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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

If you run and cut each cable then bring them along with your terminal ends
to an electric shop or yard I bet they will crimp then on for you very
reasonably.

 

 

Burt (Skip) Stratton

1974 CC 33-3/4 tonner

Narragansett Bay, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2015 9:33 AM
To: Frederick G Street; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

 

Fred,

 

Thanks, but the lengths are all a question mark. I purchased a large spool
of red and black cable and are going to do the runs under this and over
that, and then cut/crimp. 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 

 











 






 

On Mar 25, 2015, at 7:01 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Edd - I have one of the big crimpers, and could do cables for you.  I just
need to know the gauge, the length stud to stud, and the stud sizes for the
lugs.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( 

 

On Mar 25, 2015, at 4:32 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:





You ain't gonna like my answer.  My buddy and I use one of these:

http://www.globalelectricalsupply.com/Mechanical-Single-Indent-Heavy-Duty-Lu
g-Crimper-p/m-500.htm

I'm thinking you don't want to pop $700 for one.  :)

There are imported version for a lot less.

 

Dennis C.

 

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Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have big electricians crimpers. They look like bolt cutters. Electric
supply houses have them. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 5:01 PM
To: CC List
Subject: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

 

Listers,

 

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a tool (or tools) for cutting and
for crimping terminals onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable? 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 

 











 






 

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Try an in-line self-priming pump and run the pick up into your bilge sump. 
(similar to the whale gusher but electric). I had one on my previous boat and 
it gave me no trouble at all. Best practice is to connect to limit the amount 
of distance between the pick-up and thru-hull discharge. Mine went to the 
galley sink drain (with a siphon loop) so the total distance was under 4 feet. 
That also limits the head (lift).

 

Advantages are you can size the pump for the max that will handle the size of 
your thru-hull, you can mount it in a convenient place and it isn’t submerged. 
Put the float switch right next to your pickup. Also, if the pick-up is well 
placed you can just about suck the bilge dry with the switch in ON. That was 
the only pump I didn’t replace in the 6 years I owned my previous boat. They 
cost a little more but well worth it.

 

 

Burt (Skip) Stratton

1974 CC 33-3/4 tonner

Narragansett Bay, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Blair 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 1:05 PM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

 

Thanks for the info. From the look of the picture I don’t know whether the 
setup will fit in my narrow bilge ( 3” wide), but there may be a way. Cheers

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 5:13 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Bilge pump

 

 

Thoughts on bilge pumps.

First, I'm rewiring a boat that has one of those auto switch pumps.  Every 5 
minutes or so it whirs and stops.  Drives me nuts.  Can't imagine sleeping on a 
boat with one of those installed.

How I wire a bilge pump.  First, install a Rule 43 3 way bilge switch in a 
convenient and protected location.  Power it from one of the battery 
connections on the back side of your main battery switch.  I usually connect it 
to the house bank.  If you can find it, Ancor make some nice 14/3 AWG bilge 
pump cable.  Run that or two positives and a single negative to the bilge. 

Use a round Rule pump of your choice and strap an Ultra Safety Systems Mini 
Bilge Pump switch to it.

http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Safety-Systems-Switch-UPS-06-12/dp/B00CGJS4PQ

You will have a very nice and very reliable bilge pump system.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump now Bilge Pump Switch

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

+1 on the water witch. I used one on my boatsense high water alarm. No
moving parts. Had it for 6 years, never failed.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 9:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump now Bilge Pump Switch

 

Just  to be clear.  

The Water Witch switch
https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Product
s/BilgeSwitches.html
https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products
/BilgeSwitches.html is 100% solid state with no floats or any moving parts.
It doesn't cycle needlessly either,  It just has one or 2 sensor plates
(depending on the model) that probably measures + voltage to ground
difference / conductivity. 

Long story short: It knows when the bilge water level is above the
threshold, even with some oil (Transmission leak, another story) and other
crud it has never miss-fired or failed. 

So far, fool proof and used by both Canadian and US coast guards if that
means anything.. 

Regards

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take five
Cumming, GA 

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Re: Stus-List firends from list

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I am looking forward to meeting a couple of the local listers who sail around 
the Newport, RI area. I find myself, when I see a CC on the water looking to 
see if I know her from this list. I am relatively new to this list but find it 
to be interesting reading and valuable especially in light of my lack of real 
sailing experience or sailboat ownership. The banter can be revealing and 
pretty funny. That kind of intimacy would be difficult on a forum format. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2015 9:43 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List firends from list

 

Good point, Mike

For instance, I found a pair of winches on Craigslist on the other end of the 
country.  The seller was reluctant to ship them to me.  A very kind lister was 
instrumental in obtaining them and shipping them to me.  I think the more 
personal nature of the email format helps that process.

I also have met listers in my travels and asked listers for local information.  
I'm not sure I'd be as comfortable on a personal basis with members of a forum.

As always, listers are welcome to contact me when they are in the south 
Louisiana area.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 7:40 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I have personally met several people who came from this list.  Also on the J27 
Yahoo group with its email list I met a couple people.  I have never met a 
single person through any forum
 
I have met and chatted with Bob Abbott and Rich Knowles because I knew their 
names and boats from the list   I have been on both of their boats
 
I have had many email conversations with Harry Hallgring and he even did a 
visual inspection of my current boat while I was in the process of purchasing 
it.  Our paths did not cross in New Bedford, Mass unfortunately due to time 
constraints but I do consider many on this list to be friends.
 
Forums have to be checked.  Lists come to you.  Many of us prefer the messages 
coming to us rather than going to look.  Also like many others I do use forums 
like sailnet as well but not very often anymore.
 
So I guess to me LIST = FRIENDS = COMMUNITY.  Forum = Impersonal and anonymity. 
 
 
Mike
List Troll

 


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Re: Stus-List transmission Shifter

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Take a look at where the shifter cable connects to the transmission
actuator. Very easy to get to on my boat. It is at the most forward end of
the transmission about 8 inches from the big hatch leading to the main
cabin. On my Atomic 4 it is a simple bracket with a pivot point that was
completely seized on my boat. A little penetrating oil and a whole lot of
repeated movement did the trick. I could see how it would bind up even under
use without some periodic attention.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Hood
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2015 12:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List transmission Shifter

 

I have always had problems with my transmission.  Shifter is located on the
binnacle forward of the wheel.  I had the boat in the water for 1 season and
used a 12 long handle to give the leverage needed to shift.  Wife often
can't manage as too much pressure is needed to shift from neutral, reverse,
forward.  Atomic 4 engine.transmission unknown.  Thoughts?

 

Thanks,

Paul Hood

1982 CC34

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Re: Stus-List Not CC related.. Ragamuffin 100 hitting 38 knots

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Great video! Thanks for sharing

 

 

Burt (Skip) Stratton

1974 CC 33-3/4 tonner

Narragansett Bay, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2015 2:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Not CC related.. Ragamuffin 100 hitting 38 knots

 

One heck of a sled !  

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsJewTrY5v0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsJewTrY5v0

Regards, 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ 'Take Five
Lake Lanier, Georgia

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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Stu, the list is far better than any forum I have “joined” but if the forum is 
easier for you I would support it

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 5:32 PM
To: CC Email List
Subject: Stus-List Email List or Forum

 

Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have a 
“Forum” similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” instead of an email list (like 
this one).

 

PROS:

1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list

2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.

3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.

4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.

5. Easily moderated by more than one person.  Threads can be deleted and 
undesirable subscribers blocked.

6. No more 20-30 emails a day.  Visit the site at your convenience and view the 
latest topics since your last visit.

 

CONS:

1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional 
enhancements.

2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. 
()

3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it does take some time.  And a bit 
more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection.

 

Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list?  It 
does not matter to me.

 

Stu

 

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Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Heat will do the trick, too if you have the room to use a torch without heating 
other things that shouldn’t be heated. Even a hand help map gas torch can 
provide effective heat on a small stud and nut combination. If you can get it 
even a little bit red it will come right off. Don’t heat it with the wrench on 
it. You will ruin the temper on your wrench.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 10:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation

 

I have no idea from a real world test how acetone and ATF work together as
a penetrating oil, but it does seem unlikely it works well. First off they
should not mix so they do not form a homogeneous solution. I would guess
that 100% acetone would work well to penetrate but it is not very slippery.
Even most hydraulic fluids are not naturally slippery, they require modifiers.
Power steering fluid and ATF are closely related, but likely have differences
in things like anti-foam additives. Doubt it would be a critical difference for
a home brew penetrating oil.

Some of the normal vegetable oils are much more slippery, and do mix
with acetone.

https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/2012/08/14/how_to_make_penetrating_oil.html

So 10% acetone and 90% vegetable oil may work as well as acetone - ATF.


The home brew formula may have started with 1,1,1-trichloroethane (a/k/a methyl 
chloroform)
and ATF - Ed's Red formula. Doubt it was worth the hazards involved.

http://fireironmfg.proboards.com/thread/87/penetrating-oil


The one thing that I have noticed is that when two properly sized and clean 
threads have
locked together nothing will penetrate to any degree that will help. That is 
why pipe thread
can handle pressure and not leak. Yes, it is tapered and has a specific thread 
but normal
non-tapered thread can seal as well.

Just speculating, but on an old rusty nut that was not torqued down hard the 
acetone
may do all the penetrating and loosen things up. The ATF may not penetrate at 
all but
helps when backing the nut off. So the fact that they do not mix is not a 
problem.

Michael Brown
Windburn
CC 30-1



 


Message: 12 
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2015 00:13:08 -0300 
From: robert robertabb...@eastlink.ca 
To: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation 
Message-ID: 55010444.5040...@eastlink.ca 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; Format=flowed 

David: 

I will be brave to face  a genetic engineer.I suspect the 50-50 
acetone ATF concoction has more to do with the 'acetone' than the 
'ATF'.  I said earlier last week that I thought it was Power Steering 
Fluid ...both are petroleum based..its the acetonemaybe the 
petroleum based additive gives us sense of comfortthink about 
itmost of us are more comfortable with a drop of 'oil' than a drop 
of 'acetone'. 

I think it is the 50 % acetone that makes this concoction 
effective.it can be mixed with any petroleum product 50%-50% and do 
its thing. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
CC 32 - 84 
Halifax,N.S, 

On 2015-03-11 11:41 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: 
 I never cease to be amazed by the information I get from this list. 
  This group has an amazittng array or talents and experiences, not 
 just in sailing but also in engineering, metallurgy, mechanics, 
 chemistry etc. etc. The only engineering I can provide advice on is 
 genetic engineering and I suspect there are not going to be a lot of 
 questions on that topic.  Sigh! 
 I will be sure to report back on tools and bolts when I find what gets 
 this one off.  I may buy a few wrenches just to see how well each 
 works in this not uncommon situation.  My box of ratcheting wrenches 
 dumped over a while back and of course ended up in the bilge in salt 
 water.  No more ratcheting happening there. 
 As to my real point- I had heard about 50-50 acetone ATF a long time 
 ago as a penetrant so I made some up to try for this experiment, but 
 found that the two are not miscible and phase separate almost 
 immediately. Is that expected and if so, which phase for the bolt?  Dave 
 
 
 Aries 
 1990 CC 34+ 
 New London, CT 

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Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Safety is your call, Captain. I personally enjoy the comfort of having a real 
life raft on board no matter how close to shore I am and an EPIRB is never a 
bad thing if you find yourself in it or in your inflatable after having the 
boat knocked out from under you. One thing to consider is the water temps up 
here in June are pretty cold. Commercial guys are required to have survival 
suits even in the summer. An unplanned swim that time of year can be pretty 
dangerous, even a mile from shore.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Sheer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 2:44 PM
To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners
Subject: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston

 

Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in June. 
I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind 210), and a 
new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from Cape May to 
Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need to bother with 
a life raft and/or a real epirb?

 

Dan Sheer

Pegathy LF 38 

Rock Creek off the Patapsco

 

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Re: Stus-List Boat Review: CC 30 - SAIL Magazine

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I used to haul my power boat out at Lavin’s in Barrington. They were right at 
the mouth of the river on the right heading in. They are under new ownership 
now. Not familiar with Stanleys

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 3:30 PM
To: Petar Horvatic; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Review: CC 30 - SAIL Magazine

 

Haven't been to Stanley's in 40 years!  Good to know they are still in business.

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 3:25 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hauled out at Stanleys in Barrington RI for the winter.   

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 2:44 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Boat Review: CC 30 - SAIL Magazine

 

For your reading pleasure: 
http://www.sailmagazine.com/sailboat-reviews/new-boat-cc-30-0

 

Ken H.


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

That kind of mistake REALLY hurts in an airplane

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Salter 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 5:23 PM
To: CnC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

 

They actually had the charts, but didn’t look!

 

sam :-)

 

From: Martin DeYoung mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com 
Sent: ‎Tuesday‎, ‎March‎ ‎10‎, ‎2015 ‎3‎:‎17‎ ‎PM
To: Sam Salter mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com , CnC 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

 

I always have a paper chart(s) as a back-up to the chart plotter.  For offshore 
passages I also carry a sextant and the materials needed to reduce a sight.

 

I am surprised that professional, highly paid, top of their industry navigators 
and skippers to not have even a large area overview chart on paper.

 

Maybe it is a generational thing that I do not trust electronics to stand 
between me and a safe passage.

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Salter 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 1:22 PM
To: CnC
Subject: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

 

 
http://www.yachtingworld.com/blogs/elaine-bunting/comment-how-the-team-vestas-wind-crash-really-happened-and-the-surprisingly-simple-things-we-can-learn-from-it-62634?elqTrackId=244797bc7870487dab6568ea90f95c29elqaid=15257elqat=1
 
http://www.yachtingworld.com/blogs/elaine-bunting/comment-how-the-team-vestas-wind-crash-really-happened-and-the-surprisingly-simple-things-we-can-learn-from-it-62634?elqTrackId=244797bc7870487dab6568ea90f95c29elqaid=15257elqat=1

 

Interesting reading!

If I think about it, I’ve got a bit lax lately, relying more and more on 
digital charts.

I’m going to get a bit more rigorous from now on and use/check my paper charts 
a lot more.

 

 

sam :-)

CC 26  Liquorice

Ghost Lake  Alberta

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Which stove won

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2015 12:51 PM
To: Joe Della Barba; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

 

25 years ago, my family had a big party with lobster for twenty people.  To 
cook all that lobster at one time, my father-in-law got all of his boat and 
camping stoves together in the kitchen and had an impromptu race to boil water 
to cook the twenty 1.5# lobster.  We had a kerosene stove and an alcohol stove 
and white gas camping stove, and also used the house's natural gas stove.  It 
was fun to learn how to safely light all of these different kinds and with 
various sized pots we had a totally uncontrolled experiment, but a lot of fun.  
We waited for all of the pots to be boiling, and then steamed the lobster and 
had an amazing dinner laughing about our crazy test.   I think all cook w fire 
equipment can be used safely, if used properly.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

  _  

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2015 8:01:33 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

 

Have you ever actually tried that?

Any significant pressure leak and you won’t be able to get anyplace near the 
stove.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Irvin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 10:17 PM
To: Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

 

Alcohol stove fires can easily be extinguished with water
Surely a plus.

  _  

From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: ‎2015-‎03-‎06 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

You would have also discovered that many insurance companies will not insure a 
boat with a pressurized alcohol stove. They go strictly by the numbers, and 
those stoves have a very bad track record for claims. It is one of the hot 
items they look for in the insurance survey. 

 

The other issue with alcohol is that the flames it makes are virtually 
invisible, which can also lead to unintended consequences. 

 

Bill Bina

On 3/5/2015 10:14 PM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:

An question from another new CC 33  MK II owner.

 

I have been trying to get the original Hillerange two burner pressure alcohol 
stove working, and it scares me. One burner lights, flame is blue but not 
adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and burns about 8 high. Made an 
easy decision to scrap this.

Any suggestions about a new stove top would be appreciated

 

John from Enterprise

 

 


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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I am surprised by the complaints about alcohol stove performance. My little one 
burner non pressurized Electrolux works great! The flame stabilizes very 
quickly when it warms up. Not much of a problem with handling a reasonable 
draft and gets my 12-cup percolator perking very quickly. IMO it is safer than 
propane for a variety of reasons and since my stove is directly under my 
companionway hatch it is easy to vent the moist air created by the stove. Also 
very efficient. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2015 12:51 PM
To: Joe Della Barba; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

 

25 years ago, my family had a big party with lobster for twenty people.  To 
cook all that lobster at one time, my father-in-law got all of his boat and 
camping stoves together in the kitchen and had an impromptu race to boil water 
to cook the twenty 1.5# lobster.  We had a kerosene stove and an alcohol stove 
and white gas camping stove, and also used the house's natural gas stove.  It 
was fun to learn how to safely light all of these different kinds and with 
various sized pots we had a totally uncontrolled experiment, but a lot of fun.  
We waited for all of the pots to be boiling, and then steamed the lobster and 
had an amazing dinner laughing about our crazy test.   I think all cook w fire 
equipment can be used safely, if used properly.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

  _  

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2015 8:01:33 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

 

Have you ever actually tried that?

Any significant pressure leak and you won’t be able to get anyplace near the 
stove.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Irvin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 10:17 PM
To: Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

 

Alcohol stove fires can easily be extinguished with water
Surely a plus.

  _  

From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: ‎2015-‎03-‎06 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

You would have also discovered that many insurance companies will not insure a 
boat with a pressurized alcohol stove. They go strictly by the numbers, and 
those stoves have a very bad track record for claims. It is one of the hot 
items they look for in the insurance survey. 

 

The other issue with alcohol is that the flames it makes are virtually 
invisible, which can also lead to unintended consequences. 

 

Bill Bina

On 3/5/2015 10:14 PM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:

An question from another new CC 33  MK II owner.

 

I have been trying to get the original Hillerange two burner pressure alcohol 
stove working, and it scares me. One burner lights, flame is blue but not 
adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and burns about 8 high. Made an 
easy decision to scrap this.

Any suggestions about a new stove top would be appreciated

 

John from Enterprise

 

 


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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have a little Electrolux single burner non pressurized alcohol stove and it 
perks my coffee as fast as my propane stove on the old boat. It is a large 
percolator (12 cup). I tested it on the bench before I put it back in the boat 
because it is important to me, too. I was very pleasantly surprised. External 
propane grill is a must for actually cooking a meal. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack Brennan 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 11:15 AM
To: Alan Bergen; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

 

I have a two-burner Origo non-pressurized alcohol stove. Perfectly safe, works 
well for cooking, but you have to buy a French press if you like coffee in the 
morning because there aren’t enough BTUs to percolate coffee fast enough, at 
least for me.

 

I use denatured alcohol from Home Depot at a fraction of the cost of “boat 
fuel.” Despite the claims of the boat fuel sellers, the generic stuff works 
perfectly fine.

 

If you go this way, it helps to have a propane BBQ on the stern rail for the 
occasional meal when you really want that hot flame. 

 

Jack Brennan

Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 

From: Alan Bergen via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 11:02 AM

Cc: C mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com C Photoalbum email list 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

 

I had CNG on my previous boat.  I liked it because of the safety factor.  It 
was easier, then, to get refills.  Not so easy now.  If you have easy access to 
refills, it's less work to convert from alcohol to CNG, than to propane, as the 
CNG canister can be stowed below.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

 

  _  

CNG is what we have.  Lighter than air.  Pretty hard to find places to refill 
canister though

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan Bergen 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 11:43 AM
To: CC Photoalbum email list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

 

Remember that propane is heavier than air.  If you install a propane stove, the 
propane must be in a compartment that vents (at the bottom) to the outside, or 
mount the propane tank outside the cabin. FYI - I just bought a Worthington 
aluminum 10 lb tank from Amazon for $130 US.  Ordered on Friday; delivered by 
US Postal Service on Sunday. 

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

An question from another new CC 33  MK II owner.

 

I have been trying to get the original Hillerange two burner pressure alcohol 
stove working, and it scares me. One burner lights, flame is blue but not 
adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and burns about 8 high. Made an 
easy decision to scrap this.

Any suggestions about a new stove top would be appreciated

 

John from Enterprise

 

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Re: Stus-List Stability Factor

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

The following site will calculate angle of vanishing stability (my 33-1 comes 
in at 139.11 

 

http://www.sailingcourse.com/keelboat/cal__avs.htm 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2015 3:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stability Factor

 

All,

 

I need to certify that my boat has a stability factor under ORR of 110 or more, 
IRC of 28 or more or STYX of 32 or more.​

 

Does anyone know the stability factor for a 35 Mk III or how to find it?


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Mounting Liferaft on a 41

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I had a 6 person coastal commander mounted on my previous boat in a cradle
with a hydrostatic release. It was a power boat with plenty of room on the
deck forward of the house. The cradle mount is very robust when mounted
directly to the deck and the retaining straps are probably strong enough to
rip the cradle from it's mounts. I am not familiar with the layout of your
boat. I have room on my deck aft of the cockpit to mount it and that is my
plan although I have honestly not measured it yet. My only other option IMO
is the deck forward of the mast. My cabin roof bulge ends at the mast. That
would keep it out of the way except when handling the anchor and out of my
line of sight.

 

Best of luck 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2015 11:12 AM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mounting Liferaft on a 41

 

Yes the mount has to be incredibly robust attached to a well built stern
rail or the boat itself.  And  the mount should be as low as possible as
well to minimize leverage if hit by a wave and designed with a quick
release.  I am sure there are proven designs  out there.

As a general observation...cabin top mounts are constantly  being hit by
waves that your sailing into causing much increased  forces.  While stern
wave boarding forces may/should  be mitigated by your going with the wind...

No perfect solutions out there...you take your shots and have fun.

David F. Risch
1981 40
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2015 10:00:56 -0600
To: dziedzi...@hotmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mounting Liferaft on a 41
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

That would be mine concern, as well.  The time you'll need the raft is when
the $#!+ has really hit the fan; and at that point, most of your
rail-mounted stuff will have already been washed off the boat.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Mar 5, 2015, at 9:33 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

I am probably stating the obvious, but from what I have read so far, the
critical thing is how you mount the raft. Many people got the rafts blown
away by waves (water), especially in knock downs. The forces in play are
substantially higher than almost anything we normally imagine.

 

Marek



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Stus-List Autohelm

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat
(1974 CC 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an
appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels
up to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under
10,000 lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple
to install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with
anything else.

 

Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing
to share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and
stow the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much
room in my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t
want to install something that will be constantly in the way.

 

Burt

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Autohelm

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Just did some research on the Raymarine auto-helm and tiller pilots.

 

The S1000+ and S2000+ are self contained tiller pilots. They mount to the 
cockpit seat or deck or wherever is most convenient and connect to the tiller 
with a pin. They only need power but are capable of communicating with other 
instruments in Seatalk or NMEA protocols. They can be disconnected and stowed 
but when installed they take up room in the cockpit.

 

The Evolution tiller pilot ex: EV100 is a system that contains some permanently 
mounted components like the control unit and sensor but the tiller drive is 
still mounted in the cockpit like the tiller pilots and can be disconnected 
when not in use. It can also come with a wheel or linear drive unit mounted 
permanently below decks with an extension to the rudder shaft or wheel steering 
components.

 

In my situation it would not be too difficult to access the rudder shaft to 
install either a wheel helm or just a tiller pilot drive unit with an extension 
connected to the rudder shaft. I may look into that down the road. I like the 
idea of an auto-pilot that is permanently installed and out of the way. I also 
like the idea of having the drive unit below decks and out of the weather.   

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack Brennan 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 11:51 AM
To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

 

Peter:

 

I wasn’t aware Raymarine had gone to permanently mounted tillerpilots. Not an 
improvement, in my opinion. I imagine they would be in the way, as well as 
exposed to weather. I also wonder how easy they would be to steal.

 

Jack Brennan

Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 

From: Peter Fell via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 11:23 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

 

Jack

 

I think you probably mean ST1000 ... and it has a displacement rating of 6,600 
lbs. The ST2000 does 10,000 lbs. The Evolution units (as per the older Smart 
Pilot X series) are permanently mounted units (with a removable tiller drive 
unit) and go up to 13,200 lbs). I think beyond that Burt would be into a 
below-deck solution for the drive unit and possibly an upgraded control unit as 
well (i.e. step up to EV200). There was an older SPX5 unit with a ‘Grand Prix’ 
tiller drive that could do 16,500 lbs.

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
CC 27 MkIII

 

From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:03 AM

To: Burt Stratton mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm

 

Burt:

 

I had a Raymarine 1000 tillerpilor on my old CC 25. It was easy to install, 
easy to use and in fact worked better than the 4000+ on my current boat.

 

The EV1000 might be a little small for your 33. With crew, gear, fuel, water, 
etc., you’re probably up to the top end of that 13,000. Better to have the 
extra power for windy days.

 

The unit can be disconnected quickly, but don’t drop it; They are a bit fragile 
inside. Also, buy a water-resistant Sunbrella cover for it for when it rains. 
The seals on my tillerpilot were less than perfect, and it died in a Keys 
rainstorm when water dripped onto the computer board inside.

 

Jack Brennan

Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:58 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Stus-List Autohelm

 

I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat 
(1974 CC 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an 
appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels up 
to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under 10,000 
lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple to 
install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with 
anything else.

 

Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing to 
share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and stow 
the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much room in 
my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t want to 
install something that will be constantly in the way.

 

Burt

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I may be new to sailing but not to boats. My last boat had (3) 12V starting 
batteries and (2) 6V (in series) for the house bank. All deep cycle wet cell 
varying in age from one to six years. My current boat has only (2) 12V (age 
unknown) with nothing to charge them but the A-4. I have never experienced any 
amount of self discharge to the point of concern over any reasonable amount of 
time. I have always kept them on the boat over the winter and top them off and 
check fluid level in the beginning of the season. Last year I didn’t even do 
that and both engines (1970 GMC 427 Mercruisers) cranked over plenty strong 
after a winter on the boat. (that was right before I sold her and got my CC 33)

 

A agree that the predictions of self-discharging over time have never in my 
experience come to pass.

 

In response to the concern of spilling acid in a wet cell on a 
rail-in-the-water-heel, I think they made sealed no maintenance wet cell 
batteries. They do for uninterruptible power systems (UPSs). Airplanes, too I 
think. I will have to look into that. The old boat didn’t tip that much.   

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2015 2:20 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM?

 

wet cells can lose up to 10% of charge per month

 

I've seen various outlandish quotes like that on the internet.  They are pure 
BS.  As I understand it, the storage temperature a flooded battery would have 
to be well in excess of 100 degrees Fahrenheit for this high rate of self 
discharge to happen.

 

A quote from Maine Sail: 

 

I was a total disbeliever at the resting OCV of a flooded battery that has sat 
100% uncharged for nearly 9 months. I grabbed my refractometer and performed 
specific gravity checks on each cell. They all agreed and all agreed with the 
DVM at the SOC..

 

So this causes one to wonder why there is all the concern around self 
discharge I have to assume that nearly 20-30 days of this summer saw the shed 
temps over 100F. It is uninsulated with a black roof... If we are to believe 
OCV and SG readings it puts this battery at approx 90% SOC after at least 9 
months.. 

 

Read the whole article here, it is worth the read: 

 

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/self_discharge

 

Other references:

 

http://www.cieux.com/bm/batteryWreck.html

 

Wet cells can maintain a workable charge for about a year after the last full 
charge. When cold, wet cells lose power and cannot deliver their rated charge. 
Instead of waiting a year for the battery to run down, either recharge your wet 
cell every six months or keep it fully charged all the time by putting a 
floating charge on it.

 

http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq16.htm

 

Self-discharge is accelerated by temperature. For batteries that are over 77° 
F (25° C), the self-discharge rate doubles with a 18° F (10° C) rise in 
temperature. Thus, sulfation is a huge problem for wet lead-acid batteries not 
being used, sitting on a dealer's shelf, or in a stored vehicle, especially in 
HOT temperatures.

 

Ken H.

 

On 25 February 2015 at 14:29, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

One thing to keep in mind is wet cells can lose up to 10% of charge per month 
and gels only lose around 1%. For a boat on a mooring or otherwise off shore 
power this can be a factor.

If you go wet cells on a mooring you will want a solar panel to keep them 
topped off.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

CC 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2015 12:58 PM
To: Edd Schillay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com


Subject: Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM?

 

Edd,

 

I am not claiming to be an expert, but from what I have read so far, the AGMs 
might be a costly solution to a somewhat non-existing problem.

 

Check Main Sail’s write ups on batteries (he did a few additional ones 
recently). If I understand these things correctly, the best performance per $ 
you will get from the wet cells (proper marine deep cycle ones). The longest 
duty cycle – from the golf batteries (the main disadvantage – they are higher 
than most other batteries, but this is for a reason – there is extra 
electrolyte over the plates and they don’t get uncovered when the boat heels). 
The most convenient – gel cells (few disadvantages of AGMs and most of the 
advantages of wet cells plus they don’t spill, don’t have issues with heeling 
angle and can be placed safely in the cabin). AGMs would require special care 
(when charging) and may not last that long.

 

You may find interesting the results of the battery survey Main Sail did 
recently. Here is the link to his “early results”: 
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=168972. Or his take 
on the flooded deep cycle batteries here: 

Re: Stus-List Furling the main

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I like the EZjack system. The fact that it can be retracted relatively easily 
is a real advantage to me. Since my mast is on the bench at the moment it 
should be an easy installation. My rigger (Frank Colanery) at Bay Sailing 
Equipment will have it soon to go through everything and hopefully install a 
tube in the mast so I can re-wire it. I’ll mention it to him, too. Thanks for 
sharing. As always this list is a wealth of information.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2015 8:32 AM
To: David Knecht; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main

 

Someone asked how the Dutchman flaking system got its name. It was invented by 
Martin Van Breems now of Norwalk CT (Sound Sailing Center) but from his name 
presumably of Dutch origins 

--

Jonathan

Indigo CC 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Feb 24, 2015, at 08:19, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

On my last boat, I installed a set of EZJax (http://www.ezjax.com).  They were 
less expensive than the Harken and the setup was well designed.  It is not hard 
to do it yourself, but getting all the lengths and positions right will take 
some careful measurements and probably several tries.  I decided that having 
someone experienced design the right sized system for my mast and sail was 
worth the small extra investment.  EZ-jax also had a nice setup for retracting 
the lines, which makes it easier to hoist the sail.  That said, I am installing 
a Mack Pack/lazyjack on my current boat this spring if the ice and snow melt 
before the sailing season is over.  I liked their combination of lazy jacks and 
sail cover.  The setup that came with my boat was poorly designed and a pain to 
use.  It shows me that while you can cobble something together that sort of 
works (what the boat came with), it does not make life easier unless it works 
well.  Dave

 

On Feb 23, 2015, at 11:27 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:





Burt,

 

Only the Lazy Jacks don't require changes to your main sail. Both stack pack 
and the Dutchman system might require a completely new main (or major 
modifications to it) or a new sail cover.

 

You can buy the Harken set or what I would suggest, assemble your own kit. This 
is not an overly complicated task. Fortunately, Harken and many others publish 
pretty good pictures and diagrams which you can use.

 

A few points that you might find useful:

- If you make your own set, be prepared that the amount of line required for 
the lazy jacks is way more than you would ever imagine. If I remember correctly 
I needed over 70 ft for a single Y system (two lines going to the boom). I 
eventually switched to three lines to the boom and it was around 100 ft. Keep 
in mind that it is usually much easier to cut the line than to make it longer 
(;-).

 

- If it works for you, consider attaching the top end of the lazy jacks to the 
spreaders (10-15 cm/4-6 from the mast). This would make raising the sail much 
easier as the slot between the lines would be wider.

 

- Many would say that using stainless steel rings, instead of little blocks is 
fine. My experience showed that the SS rings almost cut through the line 
(chafe) in one season. YMMV.

 

- And lastly, if the cost of the Harken set seems prohibitive, but you are not 
feeling like assembling the set yourself, you should be able to find something 
in a local chandlery or on-line. For comparison, e.g. Sailboat Owners sells the 
Harken kit for around $360, but Catalina Direct sells a similar set (not brand 
name) for about $210. The fact that it is Catalina Direct does not mean that 
the set would not be useful, because there is nothing specific about the lazy 
jacks; it is just a few pieces of hardware, a piece of line and a few blocks. A 
kit like that has an advantage, because it comes with all screws, bolts, drill 
bits, taps, Tef-gel and instructions. Guessing from how you asked you question, 
you might not have too much experience with boat work, so a kit like that might 
be an easier way to tackle the job.

 

Good luck

 

Marek (in cold Ottawa)

Btw. It was so cold tonight (around -25 - -27 C at the hill, plus the 
wind-chill) that the local ski hill closed; second time this year!

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: February-23-15 21:07
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main

 

Dennis,

 

Believe it or not I used that method out of desperation. I was admittedly a 
little embarrassed. I thought I was just demonstrating my lack of experience. I 
was also pretty happy with the result. I appreciate knowing otherwise. Newport 
has some pretty accomplished (and judgmental) sailors. There have been times I 
just gave up on the main and sailed with head sail only. This list is 
invaluable. Thanks

 

I will look into the lazy

Stus-List Furling the main

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

This is another newby question but I know you guys will be kind. and helpful

 

I spoke with another sailor this weekend who informed me that there is some
sort of rigging set up that actually assists in the raising and lowering of
one's mains'l

 

I cannot for the life of me remember what it was called but I have seen them
on many other yachts. It looks like a web of lines on both sides of the
main. The function being to help furl it onto the top of your boom when
lowering or keeping it out of the water when raising. It also looks like it
might second as a topping lift.

 

Mt question is what is it called and where might I find it (or is it
something we just make out of spare lines and install ourselves. because we
are sailors, after all)

 

This could be the answer to my primary concern sailing with a crew that
specializes in mixology. I can furl my jib myself while driving the boat
(roller furl). The main is by far my biggest challenge.

 

1974 CC 33 - 3 quarter tonner

On keel blocks in 5 feet of snow

Walpole, MA

 

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Re: Stus-List Furling the main

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Dennis,

 

Believe it or not I used that method out of desperation. I was admittedly a 
little embarrassed. I thought I was just demonstrating my lack of experience. I 
was also pretty happy with the result. I appreciate knowing otherwise. Newport 
has some pretty accomplished (and judgmental) sailors. There have been times I 
just gave up on the main and sailed with head sail only. This list is 
invaluable. Thanks

 

I will look into the lazy jack system. I think it would be a reasonable upgrade 
to my rig. I am having the entire rig inspected soon. The rigger is going to 
pick it up in March. I’ll speak to them about this. Hopefully it cost less than 
all new self-tailing winches. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 8:23 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main

 

Burt,

Lazy jacks, Dutchman systems, etc. are all nice.  I've installed several Harken 
Lazy Jack systems.

However, try this simple cost free solution.  This is what I do when single 
handing.

Release the halyard and let the sail drop.  Put a couple sail ties around your 
neck.  Stand on one side of the boom in the middle and throw the main to the 
other side.  Then lean over the boom and roll the sail into itself.  Continue 
until it's a compact roll.  Wrap a sail tie around the rolled/bundled sail 
tying it to the boom.

Once you're anchored or docked, undo the roll and flake it nicely.

I heard this technique described as pocketing the main.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

mandeville, LA

 

On Mon, Feb 23, 2015 at 6:15 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

This is another newby question but I know you guys will be kind… and helpful

 

I spoke with another sailor this weekend who informed me that there is some 
sort of rigging set up that actually assists in the raising and lowering of 
one’s mains’l

 

I cannot for the life of me remember what it was called but I have seen them on 
many other yachts. It looks like a web of lines on both sides of the main. The 
function being to help furl it onto the top of your boom when lowering or 
keeping it out of the water when raising. It also looks like it might second as 
a topping lift.

 

Mt question is what is it called and where might I find it (or is it something 
we just make out of spare lines and install ourselves… because we are sailors, 
after all)

 

This could be the answer to my primary concern sailing with a crew that 
specializes in mixology. I can furl my jib myself while driving the boat 
(roller furl). The main is by far my biggest challenge.

 

1974 CC 33 - 3 quarter tonner

On keel blocks in 5 feet of snow

Walpole, MA

 


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Re: Stus-List Furling the main

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Thanks, Rick.

 

Another upgrade on my list is “George”. My helm is a tiller so I think you can 
imagine how much fun it is to set or douse the main when single handing. The 
auto helm for my tiller will eliminate the need for an entire crew member.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 8:57 PM
To: 'Indigo'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main

 

Burt,

 

My Admiral (who is much more a “Landsman” than “Able Bodied Seaman”) and I 
basically use the system that Jonathan describes for dousing the sails on my 
38. She steers (or minds George the autopilot) and eases the halyard while I 
flake the luff of the sail at the mast, and then move to the aft end of the 
boom to finish flaking and put on the sail ties.

 

The system is more of a fire drill when I need to do it when alone (except for 
George). I ease the halyard a scosh as I come into the wind, and then set 
George. Half a turn on the cabin top winch to lead the halyard forward to the 
mast, and then I can lower and flake by myself. I got used to doing this on my 
25, which has the halyard at the mast, and it’s actually fairly easy on a 
smaller boat.

 

There are basically three systems to help you douse the main. Douse – not Furl. 
And each can actually become exasperating when raising the main if you are not 
dead into the wind as the sail starts up because the top battens in the main 
can get fouled under the lines and prevent the sail from going up.

 

The most common system, and what you have most probably seen on other boats -  
is called Lazy Jacks. These are essentially small lines lead from partway up 
the mast to a point part way back on the boom, and outside the sail on either 
side. When the sail is lowered it sort of crumples down between the lines and 
stays more or less on top of the boom. You can flake it later at the dock, and  
it is best if you have a sail cover designed to accommodate the lazy jacks.

 

System two is commonly called a stack pack. You see it pretty commonly on 
cruising catamarans. It is like a set of Lazy Jacks, except that your sail 
cover becomes the lower part of the lazy jack system, and you just stuff the 
sail down a bit and zip the sail cover closed over the top of the sail. The 
drawbacks are (1) that the sail has to be attached to the boom or sandwiched in 
between the two sides of the sail cover, so that you lose the sail shape you 
would get with a loose foot sail, and (2) the top of zipper on the top of the 
sail cover can get inconveniently  high off the deck. I have friends with a 
stack pack on an Endevour 35, and they need to bring a 3 step kitchen ladder up 
on the cabin top to unzip or rezip the cover.

 

The third system is called a Dutchman (wish I knew why). In this system you 
have a set of lines that run vertically from the topping lift to the top of the 
boom. Your sail has a set of cringles (holes) in it and the vertical lines 
weave from the port side of the sail to the starboard side of the sail as they 
go up. Then when you drop the sail, it slides down the lines and – in a perfect 
world – if flakes itself on the top of the mast. It works really cool if you 
install it when you get a new sail, so the sail gets a permanent set of creases 
along the flake. The drawbacks here are (1) that you must have a topping lift 
for the boom, (2) it’s a real PITA when the topping lift gets tangled in the 
backstay when you tack or gybe, and (3) you need to remember to play with the 
topping lift when you adjust outhaul, Cunningham, etc. to adjust sail shape in 
changing wind conditions.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  CC 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 7:56 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Furling the main

 

Agree that lazy jacks are one way to make fueling the main easy. However I use 
a simple method whenever short handed or even fully crewed.  Pass halyard with 
one turn around the winch to the helm. One crew goes to the mast and from in 
front of the mast facing after flakes the luff by pulling the rope bolt 
between the slides to alternate sides while the helm lets down the sail. With 
practice and coordination the sail can com down pretty fast. The leech is left 
to fall wherever. Once the sail is full down the person at the mast moves to 
the leech. And following the flakes at the luff, flakes the whole sail, putting 
sail ties on as he moves forward along the boom. Works well for me and the 
admiral on my 35mIII. 

--

Jonathan

Indigo CC 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Feb 23, 2015, at 19:15, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

This is another newby question but I know you guys will be kind… and helpful

 

I spoke with another sailor this weekend who informed me

Re: Stus-List CnC-List CC 33 MKII

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I just figured out what a self-tailing winch is! I always thought my jam cleats 
made them self-tailing.

 

Yeah I am that much of a novice to sailing boats bigger than knockabouts. It 
seems to me that they would be most useful when racing or single or short 
handing. My assumption is that they remove the need for someone to keep 
pressure on the sheet (or whatever you are winching) behind the winch thus 
allowing a one hand operation (or one person operation on larger winches). Does 
that remove the need for jam cleats behind the winches?

 

This is just for my knowledge. Based on the cost I have seen for new 
self-tailing winches I have suddenly become satisfied with my non tailing 
winches….for now.

 

My plan is to take them off the boat and bring them to my shop to clean and 
lubricate them. I’m a pretty decent mechanic. May I assume that disassembling 
them is a relatively simple process?

 

Burt  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 10:48 AM
To: Jake Brodersen; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List CC 33 MKII

 

Self tailers are king.  Racing w them is worth getting used to.  Our boat came 
w 4 self tailers and 2 non.  The non-self tailers are primary winches we use 
only when we have crew for racing.  These winches require two guys, one 
cranking and one tailing.  I added big jam cleats to speed up the release and 
trim.   If I replace them, they will be self tailers from Anderson probaby.  
Otherwise, I may remove them completely and rely on the four self tailing 
winches.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com, Bradley 
Lumgair lumg...@hotmail.com
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 10:20:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List CC 33 MKII

 

Joel,

 

I love self tailers!  Of the ten winches I have on board, eight are self 
tailing.  They are especially  helpful when sailing short handed.  As the 
helmsman, I like to tweak the genoa trim from time to time.  My aft winches are 
great for that.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

CC 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 9:56 AM
To: Bradley Lumgair; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List CC 33 MKII

 

Brad

 

My race crew hates self tailers. I prefer them for thejib  sheets. Hard to 
imagine the bearings are shot. A good clean and regrease should do it. Use oil 
not grease on springs and pawls. 

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Saturday, February 21, 2015, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Was at Toronto Boat Show, just realized I did pick up a catalogue for Garhauer, 
nice stuff as I recall. will check them out further.
The plan in my little head right now is to 1) change out the halyards for all 
synthetic, 2) try to pull new wire from the top of the mast and rig new 
instruments, the old don't work anyways so I'm not losing anything even if I'm 
unsuccessful, 3) check bushings/trade out sheaves after the mast comes down in 
the fall.
Theres a lot of talk about self tailing winches, aftermarket or original 
equipment? Eight Barient winches on ours, none are self tailing and all need 
servicing, I see West Marine sells springs and pawls, I should get a couple of 
sets for the inevitable loss, if needed I should be able to pick up bearings at 
a local bearing shop?
Thank you for all your advise and suggestions
Brad

 

Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
from my iPad!

 

 On Feb 21, 2015, at 04:28, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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   1. Re:  CC 33 MKII (Gary Nylander)
   2. Re:  CC 33 MKII  Barient 24ST (Nauset Beach)
   3. Re:  CC 33 MKII (Marek Dziedzic)
   4.  Refilling 10 lb propane tank (mike amirault)
   5. Re:  Refilling 10 lb propane tank (Josh Muckley)
   6.  salt water siphoning into sink (mike amirault)
   7. Re:  salt water siphoning into sink (Joel Aronson)
   8. Re:  salt water siphoning into sink (Mike Brannon)
   9. Re:  salt water siphoning into sink (Ken Heaton)
  10. Re:  salt water siphoning into sink (Jack Fitzgerald)
  11. Re:  salt water siphoning into sink (Bruno Lachance)
  12. Re:  salt water siphoning into sink (Graham Collins)
  13. Re:  Refilling 10 lb propane tank (Graham 

Re: Stus-List While our Northeast friends were shoveling snow..

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Currently 19 degrees F and snowing at a rate of 2-3 inches per hour on to a 
base of about 4 feet with very high winds in the greater Boston area (hurricane 
force on the coast and on the Cape). Blizzard conditions forecast through 
tomorrow. Can’t even get to the boat to clear snow off the cover. This bites!  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2015 2:25 AM
To: Ronald B. Frerker; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List While our Northeast friends were shoveling snow..

 

Currently 13 degrees F and 42 kt wind in Annapolis. And this is the south!

 

Joel

On Saturday, February 14, 2015, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Ain't it interesting!  The southern folks are going skiing and the northern 
folks are dreaming of warm places.
Humans are a strange lot.
Ron
Wild Cheri
CC 30-1
STL  Where it's 50F one day and 20 the next.  So I guess we don't have to move 
around; if we don't like the weather, we just wait a day or two.


On Tue, 2/10/15, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:;  
wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List While our Northeast friends were shoveling snow..
 To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:; 
 Date: Tuesday, February 10, 2015, 7:53 PM

 Snow is
 for skiing, not shoveling.
 Actually looking for snow here. 
 I'm in Vail, CO.  The World Alpine Championship racers
 here this week aren't happy.  Got some snow today but
 temps were near 40.
 I'm
 ready to go SAILING.  Left Louisiana Jan 15.  Skied Big
 Sky, MT; Grand Targhee and Jackson Hole, WY; and now am
 moving around ski areas in Colorado.  Will put 5000+ miles
 on the old Suburban.
 Dennis C.Touche' 35-1
 #83Mandeville, LA



 On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at
 6:43 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:; 
 wrote:







 I gave up calling the walkway in
 front of my house
 a sidewalk.
 Trench is more accurate.

  
 Steve Thomas
 Southwestern Ontario

   - Original Message -

   From:
   Marek
   Dziedzic via CnC-List
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:; 

   Sent: Tuesday,
 February 10, 2015 7:12
   PM
   Subject: Re:
 Stus-List While our
   Northeast friends were shoveling snow..



   I
   am not sure if this should be allowed this time of the
   year.

   This
   weekend I pushed off about 20 cm (8 in) of snow of the
 boat cover and this is
   nothing compared to some people around
 Boston.

   Marek
   (in Ottawa, balmy -10C (or 10 F))



   From:
   CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com javascript:; ]
 On Behalf Of
   Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
 Sent: February-10-15
   18:07
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:; 
 Subject: Stus-List While
   our Northeast friends were shoveling
 snow..

   Short video from
   the race this past weekend.  :-)  

 LARC Feb 8 Race Lake Lanier, Georgia 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtnMAbTnI0Q 

 60
 degrees, sunny,
   12-16 knots winds..

 No results yet but
   we didn't do so hot thanks to quite a few tactical
 blunders from yours truly
   and a mostly Never Sailed Beforecrew.  We
 still had a ball, learned a
   lot,  and the boys thanked me for an experience
 they'll never forget.
(I think they'll be back) . That's what it's
 all about for me...


 Stay Warm :-)


  Regards,


 -Francois
   Rivard
 1990 34+ Take
   Five
 Lake Lanier,
   Georgia
























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 -Inline Attachment Follows-

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape Dow 795

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I used  three eighths cast acrylic. That matched my factory windows and deck 
lights. I used half inch on my hatches and companionway. Also matched my 
original. Quarter inch seems thin. 

 

1974 33-3 quarter tonner

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RPH via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2015 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape  Dow 795

 

I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some 
might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my 
1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the project 
yesterday and the work is not yet complete. 

 

In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 inch 
ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail system and a 
router. I then took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they 
made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The edges of the 
portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I remember correctly). They turned 
out to be very good reproductions of the factory portlights. 

 

To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 Tape 
1/2 x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white over 
black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone Coating exhaust 
paint. 

 

Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, 
starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew). 
I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate adhesive 
and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel Multimax (which 
is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible scraper to get between 
the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. In the end, I used several 
small putty knives which easily removed the portlight. 

 

What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate 
adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but 
ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m 
Premium Marine Filler. 

 

After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place while my 
wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the protective paper 
film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along the tracing and 
removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I spray painted the 
inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that the tape and Dow 795 
will not be visible against the cabin top. 

 

I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see that 
it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the surface was 
carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing compound should be 
left to cure overnight and I will try again today calendar:T5:today . In any 
event, I have since read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum 
adhesion, and that it will adhere more quickly when the temperature is warmer. 
I'll bring a heat gun today calendar:T5:today  to warm up the cabin top 
before applying the portlight. 

 

Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the inside 
of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I will affix a 
few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the cabin top window 
opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I can then remove the 
protective film from the other side of the VHB tape and then fit the portlight 
into place like a key into a keyhole. After the tape is set, I will then fill 
the gap around the outside with the Dow 795. 

 

That's the plan, anyway. 

 

Robert H. 

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Stus-List Old Rochester High sailng program.

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Can't attach a pdf. 

 

Here is a link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLUEI1dXd6bXNaLVU/view?usp=sharin
g

 

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Stus-List old Rochester High sailing program

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Sorry, my earlier note never went out. That link in my previous note is a
document I got presumably by being part of this list. Was wondering if
anyone else or whom else got this. I have no issues with it, just wish I was
qualified. What a fun job that would be! I know one of our listers is in
Mattapoisett.  

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Re: Stus-List While our Northeast friends were shoveling snow..

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

We got hammered in the greater Boston area. Took a break from clearing my roof 
and breaking up the ice dams yesterday to clear the cover on my boat (for the 
8th time). Had to repair the frame once, too. It was nice to daydream for a 
minute as I sat in the cockpit about pointing into a warm SW breeze with the 
Newport bridge on my bow anticipating a relaxing weekend maybe out on Block 
Island. We are breaking records for snowfall this year and the city is not 
doing well dealing with it. Businesses have been hit particularly hard, mine 
included so no time for skiing. Apparently more to come over the weekend and 
into next week. These are the times I truly envy those of you who live down in 
the more temperate places. I enjoy reading about your winter sailing 
adventures. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2015 8:34 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List While our Northeast friends were shoveling snow..

 

Dennis

 

You can have some of our snow.  Last week had to bust up a hard crust of snow 
and then remove 8” of very heavy snow from boat cover, then uncover boat, 
repair frame and recover.  Likely have to remove snow again from cover since 
more coming this Friday and then Sunday.  This not to mention outdoor decks, 
driveways, etc and the threats of collapsing structures

 

On the bright side our ski area Wentworth has gone from no natural snow to 4 
feet in the past two weeks and the skiing is superb.  Any more snow and will 
have to begin snow removal under chairlift in some areas

 

Mike

Halifax

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 9:54 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List While our Northeast friends were shoveling snow..

 

Snow is for skiing, not shoveling.

 

Actually looking for snow here.  I'm in Vail, CO.  The World Alpine 
Championship racers here this week aren't happy.  Got some snow today but temps 
were near 40.

 

I'm ready to go SAILING.  Left Louisiana Jan 15.  Skied Big Sky, MT; Grand 
Targhee and Jackson Hole, WY; and now am moving around ski areas in Colorado.  
Will put 5000+ miles on the old Suburban.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

 

On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 6:43 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I gave up calling the walkway in front of my house a sidewalk. 

Trench is more accurate. 

 

Steve Thomas

Southwestern Ontario

- Original Message - 

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 7:12 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List While our Northeast friends were shoveling snow..

 

I am not sure if this should be allowed this time of the year.

 

This weekend I pushed off about 20 cm (8 in) of snow of the boat cover and this 
is nothing compared to some people around Boston.

 

Marek (in Ottawa, balmy -10C (or 10 F))

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: February-10-15 18:07
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List While our Northeast friends were shoveling snow..

 

Short video from the race this past weekend.  :-)  

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtnMAbTnI0Q 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtnMAbTnI0Q

60 degrees, sunny, 12-16 knots winds.. 

No results yet but we didn't do so hot thanks to quite a few tactical blunders 
from yours truly and a mostly Never Sailed Beforecrew.  We still had a ball, 
learned a lot,  and the boys thanked me for an experience they'll never forget. 
 (I think they'll be back) . That's what it's all about for me... 

Stay Warm :-) 

 Regards, 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, Georgia
















































 


  _  


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Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 (Eric Baumes)

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

The pitch of the wheel will determine RPM. I have seen 3k plus form my A-4 and 
I think there was more if I wanted it.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della 
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2015 7:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 (Eric Baumes)

 

Without the 2:1 reduction gear no one with a displacement hull boat is getting 
more than maybe 2400-2600 RPMs out of the A4.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2015 6:30 PM
To: Bill Coleman; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 (Eric Baumes)

 

FWIW, The atomic 4 was supposed to achieve 30Hp at 3500 RPM, less Hp at lower 
RPMs.

 

Found this on website selling engines replacements:

 

Several Beta Marine diesel engines are available to replace the Atomic 4 
gasoline engine for your Sailboat engine repower depending upon the vessel's 
displacement. General guidelines for displacement hulls follow, but please 
contact Joe DeMers for a specific recommendation concerning your boat and 
application.

*   Boats displacing up to 7,500 pounds may use the Beta 10 Ten engine.
*   Boats up to 10,000 pounds may use the Beta Marine 13.5 hp engine.
*   Boats between 10,000 and 14,000 pounds need the 20 hp Beta Marine 
engine.
*   Boats between 14,000 and 18,000 pounds require the 28 hp Beta Marine 
engine.

Google, Beta Marine to find it.

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2015 5:41:49 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 (Eric Baumes)

 

That’s what she s-

Darn, I’ve got to stop saying that!

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39

 

 

I have to ask the question: will it fit in the hole?

 

That's a lot of engine for a 29ft boat. The A-4 only put out About 18hp at the 
RPM that it probably generated pushing your boat. 

 

My yanmar 2gm20f seems to have more power than my A-4 did

 

YMMV

ROB


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Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. 
Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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___
Me too,

Skip

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 9:47 AM
To: Stu; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List message delivery problems

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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w_detail
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Stu

Every email I have received over the past two days from the list has subject
and then just the signature tag This list is provided by ...  (see below).
No message body at all.

Is this something that I need to fix at my end?

Mike


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Stu via CnC-List
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: January 22, 2015 9:56 PM
To: CC Email List
Subject: Stus-List List contributions

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I mean it was received without any of the donate text

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 10:47 AM
To: 'Bill Bina - gmail'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

 

Dell laptop. Windows 7 pro. Outlook with POP3 hosted email. Latest windows
update and Norton 360.

 

Approximately 20 of the last CNC list emails I have received contain request
for donations only. No additional body text. This began about 36 hours or so
ago.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 10:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

 

IT might be a big help to Stu, if when you report an issue, you mention what
type of device you are using, the operating system name, and version and
whatever email or browser client you are using. Just saying, It's broke
doesn;t help solve the problem, which might be limited to just one
particular thing you all have in common. I'm using Windows 7 on a desktop PC
with Mozilla Thunderbird for email, and it works fine for me. I also have no
problem with it on my Android phone.

Bill Bina

On 1/23/2015 10:06 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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ow_detail rn=428action=show_detail
___

 

Add me to the list 

 

jack Fitzgerald

HONEY
CC 39 TM




 

On Fri, Jan 23, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
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ow_detail rn=428action=show_detail
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Me too,

Skip

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 9:47 AM
To: Stu; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List message delivery problems

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=sh
o rn=428action=sho
w_detail
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Stu

Every email I have received over the past two days from the list has subject
and then just the signature tag This list is provided by ...  (see below).
No message body at all.

Is this something that I need to fix at my end?

Mike


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Stu via CnC-List
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: January 22, 2015 9:56 PM
To: CC Email List
Subject: Stus-List List contributions

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

The email I just sent was clean.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 10:47 AM
To: 'Bill Bina - gmail'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

 

Dell laptop. Windows 7 pro. Outlook with POP3 hosted email. Latest windows
update and Norton 360.

 

Approximately 20 of the last CNC list emails I have received contain request
for donations only. No additional body text. This began about 36 hours or so
ago.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 10:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

 

IT might be a big help to Stu, if when you report an issue, you mention what
type of device you are using, the operating system name, and version and
whatever email or browser client you are using. Just saying, It's broke
doesn;t help solve the problem, which might be limited to just one
particular thing you all have in common. I'm using Windows 7 on a desktop PC
with Mozilla Thunderbird for email, and it works fine for me. I also have no
problem with it on my Android phone.

Bill Bina

On 1/23/2015 10:06 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=sh
ow_detail rn=428action=show_detail
___

 

Add me to the list 

 

jack Fitzgerald

HONEY
CC 39 TM




 

On Fri, Jan 23, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=sh
ow_detail rn=428action=show_detail
___
Me too,

Skip

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 9:47 AM
To: Stu; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List message delivery problems

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=sh
o rn=428action=sho
w_detail
___
Stu

Every email I have received over the past two days from the list has subject
and then just the signature tag This list is provided by ...  (see below).
No message body at all.

Is this something that I need to fix at my end?

Mike


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Stu via CnC-List
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: January 22, 2015 9:56 PM
To: CC Email List
Subject: Stus-List List contributions

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Dell laptop. Windows 7 pro. Outlook with POP3 hosted email. Latest windows
update and Norton 360.

 

Approximately 20 of the last CNC list emails I have received contain request
for donations only. No additional body text. This began about 36 hours or so
ago.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 10:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List message delivery problems

 

IT might be a big help to Stu, if when you report an issue, you mention what
type of device you are using, the operating system name, and version and
whatever email or browser client you are using. Just saying, It's broke
doesn;t help solve the problem, which might be limited to just one
particular thing you all have in common. I'm using Windows 7 on a desktop PC
with Mozilla Thunderbird for email, and it works fine for me. I also have no
problem with it on my Android phone.

Bill Bina



On 1/23/2015 10:06 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List wrote:

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=sh
ow_detail rn=428action=show_detail
___





Add me to the list 

 

jack Fitzgerald

HONEY
CC 39 TM




 

On Fri, Jan 23, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=sh
ow_detail rn=428action=show_detail
___
Me too,

Skip

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 9:47 AM
To: Stu; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List message delivery problems

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=sh
o rn=428action=sho
w_detail
___
Stu

Every email I have received over the past two days from the list has subject
and then just the signature tag This list is provided by ...  (see below).
No message body at all.

Is this something that I need to fix at my end?

Mike


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Stu via CnC-List
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: January 22, 2015 9:56 PM
To: CC Email List
Subject: Stus-List List contributions

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed
members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
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Re: Stus-List PNW Rendezvous?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

That's because your engine is in a boat.

 

Or do you mean relatively speaking

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rex 
Jennifer Delay via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 7:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List PNW Rendezvous?

 

Just wondering if anyone has heard anything about a CC meet in the PNW for
2015?  Just bought a 41 and would like to compare notes with others.  The
engine access sucks big time!

 

Rex  Jennifer Delay

www. Ghostlake.com http://www.ghostlake.com/ 

www.ghostlakesailing.com

 

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Re: Stus-List replacing balsa core

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Excellent info. Thanks!

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 11:11 AM
To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List replacing balsa core

 

Last week someone asked about this.  The page below on my site from J27
shows how I did this from above a couple years ago with photos.

 

http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/Projects/recore/recore.htm

 

Note that there is no malicious code on that page despite Windows Defender
telling me it is an attack site .. argh

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Stus-List Torqing keel bolts

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I know this subject has been discussed in great detail. Sorry for any
duplication.

 

I am in the process of procuring a three quarter drive torque wrench and
sockets big enough to re-torque my keel bolts. Before I do this I just want
to be sure that 350 foot-pounds is the correct adjustment. Also, all my keel
bolts appear to be the same approximate size - very large. The nuts look
like one and three quarter inch or larger. There is one, however forward of
the mast step that is way smaller. Maybe three quarter inch. Not sure if
that is a keel bolt. It doesn't look like one. It almost looks like it could
be a ground point but there are no bonding connections to it. It lines up
over the forward most part of the keel right in the center of the bottom of
the hull.

 

 

 

 

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Stus-List balsa core

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have resigned myself to the fact that I need to address my decks and
cockpit sole. The PO installed wood strips fore to aft on the cockpit sole
ostensibly to provide some lateral traction. They were not properly bedded
and as you might imagine, the wood strips did not last long. There are open
screw holes and if I step next to them water comes out. That is an obvious
problem.

 

The reason I am concerned about my decks, particularly my cabin roof is the
fact that a brown wet film will form over time on the inside of the cabin
roof. My roof has no headliner. The paint was peeling badly when I bought
the boat and I have stripped it off. If I clean the fiberglass and wait a
few days the film gradually appears. My assumption is that there may be a
wet core in the roof. I will get a surveyor to take readings with his
moisture tool to confirm but assuming that is the case, I would appreciate
any insight by listers who have tackled this problem. 

 

I am not an experienced fiberglass guy. I don't particularly like working
with fiberglass but I am pretty handy otherwise and would be willing to
attempt this work in order to save a few hard earned bucks. 

 

Here are a couple specific questions:

1.   What would the balsa typically be replaced with? An appropriate
thickness of mat?

2.   Should I attempt to save the fiberglass skin I remove to be re-used
or just use new fabric to glass over the repair?

3.   Assuming I work from the inside, how do I defy gravity to keep the
new mat or fabric from falling down until it cures? Does the resin have
enough mastic properties to keep it up?

 

It is starting to look like the coming season may be lost for me. I have a
lot to do and can't do most of it until the temps increase. I do want to
rehabilitate this boat and do it right. I think it will be worth it whether
I keep the boat or sell her when I'm done. The boat is covered so I am
hoping it will dry out a bit before I start. 

 

Thanks as always

 

Skip

1974 CNC 33 3/4tonner

On the hard in Walpole, MA

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Re: Stus-List Fw: The stern squats at high speed

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Fear of sinking by over-power is why I won't put a turbo charger on my A4

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Salter via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2015 6:26 PM
To: CnC
Subject: Stus-List Fw: The stern squats at high speed

 

 

I would have thought (no science here) if it had that much power, it could
climb over its own bow wave and escape  hull speed. 

(This is how a Flux-Capacitor works - trust me on this! )

 

sam :-)


From: Robert Gallagher via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2015 1:11 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Reply To: Robert Gallagher

Subject: Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this...

 

The stern of a displacement hull vessel will begin to submerge as you
approach hull speed.  It's settling into the trough of its own wake(s).

 

Even kayaks do it.

 

Someone told me a long time ago that a displacement vessel could
theoretically sink itself if it had enough power.

 

YMMV

 

Rob









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Re: Stus-List Questions from potential buyer

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have been impressed with the way my 1974 33 3/4 tonner is made. Other than
the likely-hood for moisture in the balsa core of the cabin roof and the
cockpit sole (not the fault of the manufacturer) the boat looks to be solid
as a rock and sails nice and stiff. I do wish I had the 33-1 layout, though.
The modifications they made for the 3/4 ton model make the living on board
pretty sparse.

I keep seeing folks on this list giving hull numbers. I cannot for the life
of me find mine. Now my boat was likely made in the custom shop. It has an
extended keel (about 12 inches) but the hull and sail plan is identical to
the 33-1. The only plaque is on the aft wall of the cockpit and there is no
hull number on it.  Is it possible there is no hull number?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2015 7:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Questions from potential buyer

   If the size is a good fit, the 33-1 is the best boat CC ever made and
one of the best boats you could ever buy. 
   Just sayin'.  Good luck with your purchase. 

Barbara H. Fellers
Flight Risk 
'76 CC 33-1 #151
Charleston, SC


 

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Stus-List Pics of my mast head and spreaders

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I had committed a couple weeks ago to take some pics of my halyard sheaves
among other things for another lister. I posted some that might be helpful.

 

There are also pics of my spreaders. My lowers seem to be in need of repair
or replacement. I obviously need to clean off the protective tape and expose
the ends / turnbuckles, etc. but there seems to be a fair amount of
corrosion, even cracking. When the weather improves a bit I will head back
down to get a better look. I would consider it a huge favor for someone with
some experience in the review of rigging to take a look and comment. I hope
these links work. It was a little more work than it should seem to be to get
these on Google Drive.  

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLRXhXbUE3eUo4X0U/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLaXQyTExEbEJybzg/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLc3NHS0hIY2syXzA/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLUWhvUmVxZUJrTEk/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLTGpsdXJrUm52LXM/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLLTgzOTY0TDhUOE0/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLT0tyMmFIQXl6eWc/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLSnMtUlBIem9NWm8/view?usp=sharin
g

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLZ21uY05EWVJraDQ/view?usp=sharin
g

 

Skip

1974 CC 33 ¾ tonner

On the hard in walpole

Mast in Portsmouth, RI

 

 mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com bstrat...@falconnect.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Good stuff in response to my questions.

 

I think I will continue on to get dive certified just because it sounds like 
fun. I have some experience diving but never got certified. I know people who 
are but over time I’m sure that little complication will become more of a 
hassle than I want to deal with. I did look at the hookah and cockpit snorkel 
compressor systems and decided that it would be just simpler all around (and 
not much more costly) to get a tank and regulator and a way to put air in it 
cheaply whenever I need it. My guess is that for my purposes I can probably get 
away with two fills a year unless I want a lot of free lobster or get a spear 
gun for Christmas.

 

I have cleaned my hull free diving but getting too old for that. Great workout 
but can’t do the zinc or anything else that needs more than 90 seconds. Maybe 
I’ll offer to do some of my mooring neighbors’ boats and re-coup a few bucks 
from my diving toys.

 

Regarding bottom paint. I do use ablative paint (Micron CSC). It works well in 
Narragansett Bay and I like that it gets thinner as I clean it. At the mooring 
I’m pretty much all set with the best practice Nazis.

 

Burt  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:33 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

 

Put a checkmark for me in the column of 50’ hose with regulator and a tank 
sitting on the dock. Works well without all the hassle of a BCD. Although I 
can’t really “stand” on the bottom cleaning the bottom is not a terribly 
strenuous activity.

 

Saves much money from having a diver clean the bottom, especially if you race…

 

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 CC 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/ 

 

On Dec 22, 2014, at 10:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 

I also clean Touché's bottom myself. I have a 50 hose and a Conshelf XIV 
regulator I bought off eBay.  The hose is from  
http://browniesmarinegroup.com/ browniesmarinegroup.com.  They also sell 
compressors but they're a wee bit pricey. 

 

I just leave the tank on the pier and dive. I have a 5/3 wetsuit and weight 
belt. Helps to have a shallow slip so I can stand on the bottom and press up. 

 

You might cruise eBay for a used dive or tank filling compressor. You don't 
need to be certified to fill your own tanks. 

 

Dennis C.

Touché 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 22, 2014, at 6:25 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Happy holidays to all!

 

Jack, how do you clean your hull? Do you do it yourself or hire it out. I am 
considering getting dive certified so I can get a set of tanks and air. Even 
with all the gear (weights, wet suit, etc.) I think it would be a lot less 
expensive in the long run and as a bonus, I would be certified to dive. Up here 
in the northeast I don’t think I would need to do it as often as you unless I 
start racing. It would also be nice to change my prop shaft zincs once during 
the season and deal with other various issues that might require me to work on 
the exterior of the hull below the water line.

 

Burt

On the hard in Massachusetts

 

From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 8:10 AM
To:  mailto:jackbren...@bellsouth.net jackbren...@bellsouth.net;  
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

 

Hello all another milestone past with the days now getting longer!

 

All the best to all you guys and happy holidays (whichever you may be 
celebrating)

 

Danny

Boatless

Massachusetts

 



-- Original Message --
From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To:  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:02:03 -0500

Approximately 1,100 days TO haulout. (Every five years, with monthly hull 
cleanings in between.)

 

Jack Brennan

Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 

From:  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Paul Fountain via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 6:49 PM

To:  mailto:rtaill...@eastlink.ca Rick Taillieu ;  
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

 

Sorry Rick 116 days 16 hours til Perception is launched ...

 

Count down started at haul out

Paul. :)

 


On Dec 21, 2014, at 5:52 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List  
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Same to you Russ.

 

Only 145 (ish) days until launch.

I know, somebody had to start the countdown.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 CC 25  #371

Shearwater

Re: Stus-List Boat stands and draining deck water while on the stands.

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I found this out this year myself. I have had no problems at the mooring
with drainage in my cockpit. When the boat haulers dropped her in the yard
they asked which way the boat drains (fore or aft) I told them to keep it
level. They were surprised. My cockpit drains are right in the middle of my
cockpit on the outboard ends of the sole. They tilted it just slightly aft
so I have standing water in the cockpit now. Not much but enough to be
inconvenient. I tried to change the angle a bit with the jack stands but
there isn't much you can do at least on my boat. The bottom of the keel is a
flat surface and even though it is fairly short (fore to aft) I found that
the jack stands won't change the way it sits on the keel blocks. I believe
the only way to adjust it is to shim the keel blocks correctly when it is
coming off the trailer. 

 

My boat is 33 feet and 10,000 lbs with a fin keel.

 

I just picked up a 40 foot tarp and some wood for a frame. That should take
care of these issues. Before anyone feels the need. No I won't tie it off to
the lack stands J

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 12:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Boat stands and draining deck water while on the stands.

 

Hi all, I have a question on boat stands and aft tilting of the boat while
on the hard.  

I find water drainage on most CC designs to be horrible.  I've tackled the
issues many times but this one keeps coming back to haunt me.  

When the boat is in water, a while back I made drain holes at what appeared
to be the lowest point on deck.  So when boat is properly loaded and
equipped, the deck drains pretty good.  

Well all that changes once the boat is out of the water as the yard props it
so that everything is tilting aft.  So now water collects about few feet
further aft.   Year after year this tilting changes based on how they setup
the stands at the time of haulout.  No matter what you do (I've drilled
pilot holes in aluminum toerail),  I  always have submerged pulpit
stanchions bases.  For me these carry a significant load(solar panels,
support the wind generator and 15HP outboard on pulpit mount)  Well in the
winter, ice works the base screws on stanchions and before you know it you
get leaks and wet core.   

 

I would love to prop the aft stands and lower the forward ones so that the
boats sits more level and the water collects where my drain holes are.  Has
anyone done this or will doing this disturb  how the keel sits on the wooden
blocks?

My thought was to just prop the aft ones but then I realized that they all
need to be adjusted slightly.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

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Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Happy holidays to all!

 

Jack, how do you clean your hull? Do you do it yourself or hire it out. I am
considering getting dive certified so I can get a set of tanks and air. Even
with all the gear (weights, wet suit, etc.) I think it would be a lot less
expensive in the long run and as a bonus, I would be certified to dive. Up
here in the northeast I don't think I would need to do it as often as you
unless I start racing. It would also be nice to change my prop shaft zincs
once during the season and deal with other various issues that might require
me to work on the exterior of the hull below the water line.

 

Burt

On the hard in Massachusetts

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 8:10 AM
To: jackbren...@bellsouth.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

 

Hello all another milestone past with the days now getting longer!

 

All the best to all you guys and happy holidays (whichever you may be
celebrating)

 

Danny

Boatless

Massachusetts

 



-- Original Message --
From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:02:03 -0500

Approximately 1,100 days TO haulout. (Every five years, with monthly hull
cleanings in between.)

 

Jack Brennan

Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 

From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 6:49 PM

To: Rick Taillieu mailto:rtaill...@eastlink.ca  ;
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

 

Sorry Rick 116 days 16 hours til Perception is launched ...

 

Count down started at haul out

Paul. :)

 


On Dec 21, 2014, at 5:52 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Same to you Russ.

 

Only 145 (ish) days until launch.

I know, somebody had to start the countdown.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 CC 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: December-21-14 15:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

 


To all Listers  Lurkers,

Melody  I wish you the best of today, tonight and all through the winter. 

Many will know it is the Winter Solstice, occurring in North America between
~ 3 - 6 PM local time. 

A time of the longest night and to make this year special we also have a New
Moon so expect it to be the darkest night as well. 

We will celebrate with our usual fire in the backyard firepit... and maybe
some hot rums. :)

Wish you could be here, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
 Nanaimo


  _  


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4253/8781 - Release Date: 12/21/14

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  _  


 http://www.avast.com/ Image removed by sender.

This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
http://www.avast.com/  protection is active.

 

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Re: Stus-List Cool yacht for sale

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I wouldn't say the engine is dead. Depends on the cause. Could be possibly
be repaired (head gasket).

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 8:23 AM
To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cool yacht for sale

 

Seller Notes: Fault on engine (water in engine oil)





On 2014/12/18 11:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

I missed where it said the engine was dead.

Josh

On Dec 18, 2014 7:46 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

That is a LOT of money for a boat with wood decks and a dead engine.
Joe
Coquina



On 12/18/14 15:30, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-Sparkman-and-Stephens-48-foot-Yawl-/15151939235
1?forcerrptr=true
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-Sparkman-and-Stephens-48-foot-Yawl-/1515193923
51?forcerrptr=truehash=item234742725fitem=151519392351pt=Sailboats
hash=item234742725fitem=151519392351pt=Sailboats 




 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551 tel:301%20541%208551 





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Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I used 6V batteries in series for my house bank in my last boat. Two
reasons: first, my battery locker was not easy to get to and installing or
removing a golf cart battery was VERY difficult. It was much easier to do it
with two smaller batteries. Second, according to my math I got slightly more
run time with the two 6V than the 1 big 12V. The starting batteries were all
12V. I had a nice 30 amp 3-bank charger that would divide it up according to
individual battery needs. That did a very nice job of topping off my
batteries. I also had a big Generator on board that gave me AC power for the
whole boat including microwave and convection oven. The house bank handled
all the DC requirements and an inverter just to let us shut off the genset
while watching TV.

 

The two 6V batteries did a very nice job for my application

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 11:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

 

Just a quick comment on capacity:  Don't forget that when the 6v batteries
are connected in series to get 12v  you get 1/2 the stated Amp capacity as
shown on the batteries specs..   

The amount of watts they produce is fixed and since the formula is Volts X
Amps = Watts..  If you double the  volts you get 1/2 the amps..   just
sayin' 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, Ga

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Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Correct

 

Ohms law

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 4:14 PM
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

 

Definitely not true!  Two 6 volt 200 AH batteries connected in series will 
deliver 12 volts at 200 AH.  Two 6 volt 200 AH batteries connected in parallel 
will deliver 6 volts at 400 AH.

 

Gary

BSEE




~~~_/)~~

 

On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 11:17 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Just a quick comment on capacity:  Don't forget that when the 6v batteries are 
connected in series to get 12v  you get 1/2 the stated Amp capacity as shown on 
the batteries specs..   

The amount of watts they produce is fixed and since the formula is Volts X Amps 
= Watts..  If you double the  volts you get 1/2 the amps..   just sayin' 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, Ga


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Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

And doubles as ballast!

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Colin 
Kilgour via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 6:37 PM
To: David Risch; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

 

I'm late to the conversation but I have 8 golf cart batteries that gives me 
900ah at 12 volts.   Has worked well for me since 2009 and is cheaper per ah 
per year than anything else I could find.   You just need to find enough space 
for them as they are tall. 

Cheers 
Colin 

On Dec 14, 2014 10:05 PM, davidrisch75 via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Have sweeper batteries.  Bigger than golf cart batteries and work great. 

 

 

David F. Risch. 

 

Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent from my mobile device.  

 

 Original message 

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 

Date:12/14/2014 10:00 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: Rick Brass , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's? 

 

Actually, I’ve only got the T105 Trojans; the 20-hour discharge capacity is 225 
amp-hours.  Still quite a lot for their size.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Dec 14, 2014, at 8:30 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:





For example, Fred’s Trojan GC2 batteries can be up to almost 300 amp-hour 
capacity.

 


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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Steve, Wow! 

 

I’m curious where the $4,100 expectation came from. That is a huge difference. 
The cost of having professionals do any marine work is always a little 
surprising to me but this does seem high unless there were significant 
unanticipated challenges associated with the work. In that case you should have 
been apprised of the situation and given the opportunity for approval. They 
ought to be able to provide you with the details of the cost factors assuming 
this was not a firm quote. If it was a firm quote then “miscommunication” is an 
understatement. Like maybe you missed the second page of the quote with the 
total on it. Sorry to hear about your situation. 

 

Burt 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of steve via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 4:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

 

I acquired a 1984 CC 41 earlier this year that had a been on the hard for a 
couple of years.  The boat's in pretty good shape and surveyed out nicely.  
However, it was left with standing water in the bilges.  The freeze/thaw cycle 
completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed to replace it.

 

The shop just finished installing the new teak  holly marine grade plywood 
sole and it looks pretty good.  Some gaps are wider than they should be and the 
subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole really improves the 
look of the cabin.

 

Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, choking on it.  The shop guy and I 
apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly significant manner.  I had 
expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on the edge of reasonable and, 
I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job myself. The actual bill is 
for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time at $9,600!!

 

So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the work and the 
cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely hosed.

 

I would love to hear opinions on this.  By the way, the cost of the wood was 
about $700.  I don't know the cost of the varnish.

 

Steve Anderson

Shadow

CC 41





 



 

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Re: Stus-List Fuel

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

The diesel you get at a marina almost is always the same (tax-wise) as what
you get at gas stations. I have never seen it to be otherwise. We pay
over-the-road taxes on it and it contains the correct dyes. For those of you
with experience in power yachting, we used to be able to document our marina
fuel purchases and request a rebate on the road taxes paid over the course
of a tax year. When you burn 25 gallons an hour (or more) that will add up
significantly over the course of a season. 

I wholeheartedly agree that the fuel you buy at a busy truck stop will very
likely be much fresher than what you might get at your marina. I can tell
you that whatever fuel (Diesel or gas) is in the tanks at my marina will
still be there in May. I do not believe they treat it either. The price is
also less volatile. My marina and most others set their price based on what
they paid. Gas stations charge you whatever they can get away with on a
given day. Sometimes that works in our favor, sometimes not so much.  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 10:55 AM
To: 'Robert Abbott'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel

I have repowered with Westerbeke 40 4-108 3 years ago.  Since then, I've
been using exclusively gas station diesel that I get from jerry cans.
Simply because it's cheaper.  So far I have not had any signs of issues.
Winterizing procedure involves adding diesel stabilizer and replacing both
fuel filters.  I try to keep the tank as full as possible to eliminate
condensation.  This keeps me away from mega yachts at the Newport fuel
docks, and saves me few $$.   If anything, marina diesel fuel is more prone
to having issues unless it's a high traffic fuel dock.  If you get diesel
from a high traffic truck stop fuel station, you are more likely to get good
quality diesel that was not sitting for too long. 
I am curious what other think in terms of the two sources of diesel. 


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 CC 38MkII
Newport, RI



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2014 9:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel

I was reading an article that made reference to 'marine diesel fuel' 
versus 'diesel fuel' .  The article did not go into detail as to whether or
not there is actually a difference between the two.  I always thought that a
'diesel engine' whether marine or otherwise burned the same fuel

Was this simply the 'writer's interpretation' in that diesel used for marine
purposes is somehow different from diesel used for say, diesel powered
automobiles?

This is probably a stupid question and if so, tell me.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves replacement

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

No problemo, Rod.

 

When I head down to the marina this weekend I will do my best to measure what I 
can (along with some good close up pics). I wanted to inspect my sheaves anyway.

 

Stay tuned….

 

Burt 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod Randow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2014 2:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves replacement

 

Burt,


I beilieve I need to replace* a jib masthead halyard sheave on my 33-1 since 
one halyard raises the 135 easily by hand while the other halyard requires a 
hard grinding via a winch to reach full hoist. My boat is on the hard with the 
mast stepped. So if you are visiting your boat, I would like to see photos of 
the jib sheaves and if possible the dimensions of the sheaves (diameter, width, 
and pin diameter). Knowing the sheave size would enable me to have a 
replacement(s) ready if and when I drop or climb the mast.

* The problem sheave is the one I've used for the furler for many years and the 
bronze/brass bushing is probably worn and no longer round.

 

Rod Randow

CC 33-1

 

_

bstratton wrote

I have a '74 33 3/4tonner. I believe our rigs are very similar if not
identical. I just had my mast un-stepped in order to haul the boat to my
property for some winter projects. The mast is stored at my marina. If you
like I can take some close up pics for you. I should be heading down to the
yard this weekend. 
 
I have no experience in replacing the masthead sheaves but you might be able
to get a good idea of what is involved if you decide to go that route. My
main can be difficult to raise also but I chalked that up to my lack of
experience and extra hands. I found that feeding it into the track is a huge
help but again, extra hands would be helpful. I also learned the hard way to
move my running backs out of the way.
 
Burt
1974 33 3/4 tonner
Not named yet
On the hard
Walpole, MA  

 

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Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

southshoreyachts.com

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan Utinske 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 9:13 AM
To: D.J. Platt; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?

 

Is there a web page for Shoure Yachts?

Thanks,

 

On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 6:01 AM, D.J. Platt via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

You might try south Shoure Yachts as well.  They maintain an inventory of CC 
parts.

 

Cheers

 

david

 

From: David Paine via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 7:34 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?

 

Thanks, I'll give Klacko a try!   Then, if they don't have it or if the cost is 
insane, I'll try to fix it.   For the record (and because someone asked), the 
crack is really more like a split along the leading edge.   Welding or 
reinforcement might be possible. 

 

Thanks all,

 

David 

 

On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 5:51 AM, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

+1

Last year, Klacko had it in stock when a member at our club found a cracked on 
his CC32 spreader. 

 

Pierre Tremblay 
Avalanche #54988 
CC38-3 WK, hull #76

 

  _  

De : Martin Kane via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Envoyé le : mercredi 3 décembre 2014 21h06
Objet : Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?

 


David
You may want to contact Tim Doel at  Klacko Spars
klackosp...@bellnet.ca  
(905) 825-0015 tel:%28905%29%20825-0015  
https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=41n0n8klrkf65 Image insérée
 https://cf-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=fnvepj3prmgso Image insérée


Klacko provided the original CC masts back in the 70's and 80's.

They are located on Oakville, Ontario.

Martin
CC 29-2 
Recalculating



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  _  

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Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Bill,

 

My old Garmin Chart plotter does exactly that. The anchor alarm sets up a
radius from a point and sounds when you go outside it. Pretty sure most of
them have that feature.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 9:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

 

I've often wished for an anchor alarm app for my smart phone or GPS
chartplotter that would work like the range alarm on my RADAR where you set
a ring of a particular range, rather than just a directional distance, and
if you moved outside of that circle, the alarm would sound. Seems to me that
GPS makers have missed the boat on what would be a really great feature to
use as a sales pitch. 

Bill Bina

On 12/3/2014 9:43 AM, LKL Architects via CnC-List wrote:

Dennis,

 

Enjoyed your humor, although I am sure there was nothing funny in your mind
when you were awaken.  First time I set my anchor alarm, I allowed for 10
feet of drag.  During the night there was a slight wind change,  no drag but
Finesse did swing.  LIke you it got me up in a hurry.  How stupid I felt not
thinking about something so simple as a possible wind change, duh.  Again,
enjoyed you humor and thanks for posting.

 

Lloyd Lippe

Finesss

Rockport, Texas

 

 

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Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Not sure about the details of operation. If you can't choose the center of
the radius on the display you might need to put the boat close to the anchor
and then set the alarm. I only used mine a few times. The radius if I
remember correctly was set as a distance from the starting point, not
dragged on the screen but again, I am just not sure. Memory is the second
thing to go and I forget what the first is. 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

 

I have several Garmins of various ages, including a GPSMAP76s, a GPSMAP 276c
and a GPSMAP 541. I'll have to take another look at them. I want the circle
drawn around where the anchor is located, not around the boat's present
position when I set the alarm. This would be done while looking at the
chart, so you could start at the anchor location and drag out a perimeter
from there that is just a bit more than your scope, to allow for tide
changes. I didn't see a way to accomplish that with any of the units I have,
but perhaps I missed something. I'll look again.

Bill BIna



On 12/3/2014 11:36 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

even my old (over 10 years) Garmin GPSMAP 76S has that function. This might
be different for other manufacturers.

 

Marek

 

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 9:59 AM

To: 'Bill Bina - gmail' mailto:billbinal...@gmail.com  ;
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

 

Bill,

 

My old Garmin Chart plotter does exactly that. The anchor alarm sets up a
radius from a point and sounds when you go outside it. Pretty sure most of
them have that feature.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 9:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

 

I've often wished for an anchor alarm app for my smart phone or GPS
chartplotter that would work like the range alarm on my RADAR where you set
a ring of a particular range, rather than just a directional distance, and
if you moved outside of that circle, the alarm would sound. Seems to me that
GPS makers have missed the boat on what would be a really great feature to
use as a sales pitch. 

Bill Bina

On 12/3/2014 9:43 AM, LKL Architects via CnC-List wrote:

Dennis,

 

Enjoyed your humor, although I am sure there was nothing funny in your mind
when you were awaken.  First time I set my anchor alarm, I allowed for 10
feet of drag.  During the night there was a slight wind change,  no drag but
Finesse did swing.  LIke you it got me up in a hurry.  How stupid I felt not
thinking about something so simple as a possible wind change, duh.  Again,
enjoyed you humor and thanks for posting.

 

Lloyd Lippe

Finesss

Rockport, Texas

 

 


  _  


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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves replacement

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have a '74 33 3/4 tonner. I believe our rigs are very similar if not
identical. I just had my mast un-stepped in order to haul the boat to my
property for some winter projects. The mast is stored at my marina. If you
like I can take some close up pics for you. I should be heading down to the
yard this weekend. 

I have no experience in replacing the masthead sheaves but you might be able
to get a good idea of what is involved if you decide to go that route. My
main can be difficult to raise also but I chalked that up to my lack of
experience and extra hands. I found that feeding it into the track is a huge
help but again, extra hands would be helpful. I also learned the hard way to
move my running backs out of the way.

Burt
1974 33 3/4 tonner
Not named yet
On the hard
Walpole, MA  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2014 1:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Masthead sheaves replacement

The main on Flight Risk is very difficult to raise or more difficult than I
think it should be. Would anyone please share info on replacing the halyard
sheaves?  There seem to be good resources for replacements, but I cannot
remember what the masthead looks like exactly with respect to their access.
She's a '76 C$C 33-1. Once the mast is unstepped, I think I could replace
them myself. Has anyone here done this?  Does it require any special tools?
Can I get replacements before I have the old ones out?  Thx for any info or
directions. 
Barbara H. Fellers
Flight Risk CC 33-1 hull #151
Charleston, SC



 On Dec 3, 2014, at 10:12 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
 than Re: Contents of CnC-List digest...
 
 
 Today's Topics:
 
   1. Re:  OMG! We're dragging! (LKL Architects)
   2. Re:  OMG! We're dragging! (Bill Bina - gmail)
   3.  Source for Hardware to Close Panels (Edd Schillay)
   4. Re:  Source for Hardware to Close Panels (Paul Fountain)
   5. Re:  LF38 engine access - how bad is it really? (Steve Thomas)
   6.  Subject: Re: LF38 engine access - how bad is it really?
  (Daniel Sheer)
   7. Re:  OMG! We're dragging! (Burt Stratton)
   8. Re:  Source for Hardware to Close Panels (Edd Schillay)
   9.  diesel differences (Peter Delean)  10. Re:  OMG! We're dragging! 
 (Chris Price)  11.  List LF38 engine access - how bad is it really? 
 (Robert Boyer)  12. Re:  LF38 engine access - how bad is it really? 
 (Rick Brass)
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2014 08:43:38 -0600
 From: LKL Architects lklarchite...@gmail.com
 To: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!
 Message-ID: B8B0FB936B8F4793B59BEA49E9BB45E2@LloydPC
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
 Dennis,
 
 Enjoyed your humor, although I am sure there was nothing funny in your
mind when you were awaken.  First time I set my anchor alarm, I allowed for
10 feet of drag.  During the night there was a slight wind change,  no drag
but Finesse did swing.  LIke you it got me up in a hurry.  How stupid I felt
not thinking about something so simple as a possible wind change, duh.
Again, enjoyed you humor and thanks for posting.
 
 Lloyd Lippe
 Finesss
 Rockport, Texas
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2014 8:14 AM
  Subject: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!
 
 
  Anchored off boardwalk at Pensacola Beach last night. 30 20.25 N 87 08.41
W. Dead calm, clear night.  Set anchor alarm on GPS.  Depth alarm also set. 
 
  At 5am this morning I was startled awake by beep beep beep.  Leapt up,
came into cockpit and heard it again. It was the backup alarm on a garbage
truck on the island emptying dumpsters.  :(. Crap!
 
  Dennis C.
  Touch? 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA
 
  Sent from my iPhone
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 Message: 2
 Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2014 09:50:51 -0500
 From: Bill Bina - gmail billbinal...@gmail.com
 To: 

Re: Stus-List Draft

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

That makes sense as this boat is supposed to be a modified 33-1. Same hull and 
sail plan but with a modified deck and interior layout. Maybe they also used 
different keels. From what I have been able to find, there were very few of the 
¾ ton customs made (maybe 3) and they were made in their custom shop, not as a 
production model.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2014 8:27 AM
To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Draft

 

Burt

 

The keel on your boat looks much more modern than that in the specs.  That said 
“more modern” is more of a late 70’s very early 80svintage so is possible that 
it came that way I suppose.  The keel on the line drawing looks a lot more like 
a CC 33-1

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2014 6:00 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Draft

 

Burt,

 

The brochure for the later 33 shows 3 keels.  It is unlikely that someone 
modified the keel, but it is not unheard of.  Better chance that there were 
factory options.

 

Joel

 

On Thu, Nov 20, 2014 at 4:24 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I just got schooled by my boat (again).  The specifications for my boat show it 
having a draft of 5’6”. (This is a 1974 CC 33 ¾ tonner). I bought (used) jack 
stands for her winter stay in my back yard based on that. I just had her 
delivered and found out my stands are too short. I was able to recover 
gracefully from that little faux pas with the help of my yard who were willing 
to trade for the correct size. After the dust settled I did some measuring to 
find out where I went wrong. Having just been hauled she has a well-defined 
water line. I measured the actual draft and found it to be closer to 6’ 6”. Is 
it possible that the keel was either extended or replaced by a PO? Do owners do 
such things? It is still a fin keel but I noticed it has a different shape than 
the shape shown on the CC specifications document for the boat. The 
specifications are for a custom ¾ ton but could there have been optional keels 
available? I will attempt to attach a pic. There is real experience on this 
list and your thoughts are valuable.

 

Here is a comparison of the silhouette from the specification drawing a 
sailboatdata and a pic of the actual boat.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLanZwZUsxeE1PaE0/view?usp=sharing

 

Burt

On the hard in Walpole, MA


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Stus-List protocol

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

What is the accepted method on this list for sharing things like pictures
that are larger than 60k?

 

Burt

 

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Stus-List Draft

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I just got schooled by my boat (again).  The specifications for my boat show
it having a draft of 5’6”. (This is a 1974 CC 33 ¾ tonner). I bought (used)
jack stands for her winter stay in my back yard based on that. I just had
her delivered and found out my stands are too short. I was able to recover
gracefully from that little faux pas with the help of my yard who were
willing to trade for the correct size. After the dust settled I did some
measuring to find out where I went wrong. Having just been hauled she has a
well-defined water line. I measured the actual draft and found it to be
closer to 6’ 6”. Is it possible that the keel was either extended or
replaced by a PO? Do owners do such things? It is still a fin keel but I
noticed it has a different shape than the shape shown on the CC
specifications document for the boat. The specifications are for a custom ¾
ton but could there have been optional keels available? I will attempt to
attach a pic. There is real experience on this list and your thoughts are
valuable.

 

Here is a comparison of the silhouette from the specification drawing a
sailboatdata and a pic of the actual boat.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLanZwZUsxeE1PaE0/view?usp=sharin
g

 

Burt

On the hard in Walpole, MA

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Re: Stus-List Draft

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Yes I do have PT 2x6 under each foot of each stand. The ground under the boat 
is crushed stone bank.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan Bergen 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2014 10:02 PM
To: CC Photoalbum email list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Draft

 

 

I couldn't tell from your picture, Burt, but if your jack stands are sitting on 
the bare ground (dirt or gravel) I hope you remembered to place plywood under 
the stands.  Otherwise, be prepared to see the stands sink when the weather 
becomes wet.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Excellent story. I now know more about bloopers and boats designed for IOR 
racing. Stubby and pointy….Yup. That’s my boat in a nutshell.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Letsgo 
Sailing via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2014 6:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

 

There you will find what a blooper is.

http://sailingmagazine.net/article-1422-memories-of-a-sail-that-lived-up-to-its-name-in-every-way.html

 

Yanni Boatless in Ontario

Not for long…

 

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible

95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible

07 Yamaha Straotoliner S

SCRC 011059

SRO 26-6483

 

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!

Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?

Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: November 18, 2014 5:59 PM
To: 'Chuck S'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

 

Related but specific to sailboats:

 

What is best practice (or acceptable practice) for preparing and storing sails 
for the winter?

 

In the absence of a sail loft I can’t imagine a graceful way to clean dry and 
fold the sails. Maybe step a mast in the back yard?

 

My sails are all fairly old but in decent shape and I would like to get some 
more seasons out of them. In all honesty I don’t even have an accurate 
inventory. There are sails in bags that I have never put my eyes on.

 

I think I can recognize a mylar vs. Kevlar sail but I have one that looks like 
it is made of silk. Super light weight and fits into a bag less than half the 
size of the others. Very colorful. Before I pull it out and try to fold it or 
whatever I should do does anyone have any idea what it might be?

 

Last rookie question (on this post). What is a blooper? I really truly did 
attempt to find the term on the interwebs without much success. 

 

Burt

1974 CC ¾ tonner on the way to my back yard 

 

From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2014 5:37 PM
To: Edd Schillay
Cc: CNC boat owners, cnc-list; cnc-list-bounces cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

 

Thanks everyone.  We're OK.  I winterized all the water systems yesterday ahead 
of this cold spell.  Pulled my sails off Sunday and brought home a van load of 
gear.  

 

Just read through a few winterizing checklists and I'm about 90% done.  Need to 
remove the last bit of gear like the wheel and spin pole and electronics and 
setup the cabin cushions and rig my small tarp to cover the cabintop.  I may 
also wipe down the interior teak w Pinesol to prevent mold and mildew over the 
winter, and lube or polish a few things to get ahead of spring commissioning?  
Sad days.  

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: Edd Schillay  mailto:e...@schillay.com e...@schillay.com
To: cscheaffer  mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net cscheaf...@comcast.net, 
CNC boat owners, cnc-list  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2014 4:51:27 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

 

Chuck,

 

I’ve always found this list on  http://WestMarine.com 
WestMarine.com to be very good:  
http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Winterizing 
http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Winterizing 

 

Dropped into the 20’s here last night. You may be too late :-)

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

 http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ Starship Enterprise's 
Captain's Log

 

On Nov 18, 2014, at 4:41 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Anybody ever create a checklist for winterizing?  Can you share?

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

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http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Related but specific to sailboats:

 

What is best practice (or acceptable practice) for preparing and storing sails 
for the winter?

 

In the absence of a sail loft I can’t imagine a graceful way to clean dry and 
fold the sails. Maybe step a mast in the back yard?

 

My sails are all fairly old but in decent shape and I would like to get some 
more seasons out of them. In all honesty I don’t even have an accurate 
inventory. There are sails in bags that I have never put my eyes on.

 

I think I can recognize a mylar vs. Kevlar sail but I have one that looks like 
it is made of silk. Super light weight and fits into a bag less than half the 
size of the others. Very colorful. Before I pull it out and try to fold it or 
whatever I should do does anyone have any idea what it might be?

 

Last rookie question (on this post). What is a blooper? I really truly did 
attempt to find the term on the interwebs without much success. 

 

Burt

1974 CC ¾ tonner on the way to my back yard 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2014 5:37 PM
To: Edd Schillay
Cc: CNC boat owners, cnc-list; cnc-list-bounces cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

 

Thanks everyone.  We're OK.  I winterized all the water systems yesterday ahead 
of this cold spell.  Pulled my sails off Sunday and brought home a van load of 
gear.  

 

Just read through a few winterizing checklists and I'm about 90% done.  Need to 
remove the last bit of gear like the wheel and spin pole and electronics and 
setup the cabin cushions and rig my small tarp to cover the cabintop.  I may 
also wipe down the interior teak w Pinesol to prevent mold and mildew over the 
winter, and lube or polish a few things to get ahead of spring commissioning?  
Sad days.  

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com
To: cscheaffer cscheaf...@comcast.net, CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2014 4:51:27 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

 

Chuck,

 

I’ve always found this list on WestMarine.com to be very good: 
http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Winterizing 

 

Dropped into the 20’s here last night. You may be too late :-)

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 

 

On Nov 18, 2014, at 4:41 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Anybody ever create a checklist for winterizing?  Can you share?

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump parts for C C 30-1

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Ron. Definitely take the pump apart first. Might be an easy fix. You can get
parts for it at Jamestown Distributors if you need them.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2014 10:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump parts for C  C 30-1

On the subject of bilge pumps, mine is not working.  It's the original pump
located on the cockpit floor.  I suspect the diaphram is ruptured.
I'm an hour from the boat and freezing; I believe it's a Whale gusher???
Any idea where parts can be found?
Ron
Wild Cheri
STL


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump parts for C C 30-1

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

If you look them up on line you will find distributors closer to you.

Burt

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2014 10:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump parts for C  C 30-1

On the subject of bilge pumps, mine is not working.  It's the original pump
located on the cockpit floor.  I suspect the diaphram is ruptured.
I'm an hour from the boat and freezing; I believe it's a Whale gusher???
Any idea where parts can be found?
Ron
Wild Cheri
STL


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Re: Stus-List cc 41

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

That's in my marina I believe. (Pirates Cove). There is also a CC I noticed
from Nantucket called Magic up on the hard.

I really know nothing about either boat. They both showed up recently. From
the outside Reverie looks to need a cleaning but could be in nice shape. It
is brokered by a different broker but I'm sure the yard knows something
about her. I can inquire if you like. I will be heading down Wednesday to
haul my boat.

Burt 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2014 8:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cc 41

hi guys,

does anyone know anything about the 41 for sale in portsmouth ri?  the
boat's name is reverie.

Danny

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Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I don’t have inside grab rails or a headliner for that matter. Maybe those 
amenities were sacrificed along with the shower and v- berth on the “custom” ¾ 
ton special

 

Or maybe my headliner was removed although it seems the inside of the cabin 
ceiling was painted several times. The layout is so different from the 33-1 
that I doubt there is any similarity in those details either. My on deck grab 
rails screw in from below with oval head stainless woodscrews. They came out 
with no problem and I refinished them in on my bench in the basement. Re-bedded 
with life caulk… good as new. Did the same with all my companionway teak trim. 
Nice that that is all the teak I have on the deck (well, except under the 
winches). After my last boat this is just a little piece of heaven.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of rick bushie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 3:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I

 

Joe, I know the 30-1 isn't the same boat but Anchovy's grab rails are wood 
screwed from inside the cabin THROUGH the cabin grab rails.

 

Rick Bushie

Anchovy 30-1

Worton Creek, MD

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Re: Stus-List Some background on possibly the first cc 34 3/4 ton

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Found some more info. Looks like not many were made. Same hull and sail plan as 
the 33 MK I but a very different deck and interior. My boat has 3 deck hatches 
but I sacrifice cockpit size, forward headroom, V-berth and other comforts like 
a real galley, separate shower and head, pressurized potable water… the list is 
long. I don’t know if the changes result in a lot more performance but I now 
have 33 MK1 envy. Although the simplicity is kind of nice. Very little to break 
and maintain. With the help of the Admiral we will find a way to make her 
comfortable (enough).

 

The follow on review says this boat points very well and performs fairly well 
off the wind but tends to yaw a bit in a following sea. I have experienced the 
upwind performance, especially with Kevlar sails but have not had the 
opportunity to run in a decent sea although she seems stable running with a 
strong breeze on relatively flat water.  

 

The first CC 33's were designed by the original CC design group and made in 
the CC custom shop in 1974 as custom, three-quarter tonners. But after 
producing just three boats, CC yielded to market demands and began building 
the CC 33 in the factory. One hundred and sixty five CC 33s (MK I) were built 
in production, according to CC expert, Rob MacLachlan from Southshore Yachts. 
Construction continued right up until 1977, when the CC 34 came along to 
replace it. (Note, this generation of CC 33 is not to be confused with or 
compared to the post-80s, Rob Ball-designed CC 33 MK II, which was a totally 
different design.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 7:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Some background on possibly the first cc 34 3/4 ton

 

For a few years we raced against a ¾ ton Special. We could beat them 
boat-for-boat, but saving our time against them was hard. The PHRF ratings of 
the time made the ¾ Ton look a lot slower than the 35 than it really was.  Boat 
for boat we were very close.

 

Joe Della Barba  Coquina CC 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I just found something to like about my ¾ ton special. I have a deck hatch on 
the gunwale aft of the cockpit that is big enough to let me get right down into 
that space behind the engine. I can get to everything in there without 
performing any circus tricks or cutting anything. I am not familiar enough with 
the layout of the 33-1 to offer much assistance except this: The reason your 
exhaust hose loops up before attaching at the tail pipe is to create a siphon 
block. You should plan the same for your new hose. Best of luck!

 

Burt

1974 CC 33 

¾ ton special

Portsmouth, RI

(still searching for a good name)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod Randow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 1:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1

 


With all the talk about the 3/4 tons and the 33-1, how do you replace the 
exhaust hose on the 33-1? Have any 33-1 owners had the exhaust hose replaced? 

 

I would like to replace the exhaust hose, muffler to transom, on my 33-1. The 
issue is removing the hose from the “tailpipe” on the reverse transom. There 
are two round inspection ports high up on the aft cockpit wall but the distance 
from each to the hose clamps is probably four feet. Without cutting new lower 
ports, the approach from the cockpit does not seem to be a option. Cutting a 
large opening(s) near the cockpit floor is something I would greatly like to 
avoid.

 

Approaching the hose clamps from the starboard cockpit locker (open space from 
saloon bulkhead to transom except for enclosed port quarter berth) I can barely 
reach the rudder quadrant and the clamps are probably another 3-4 feet further 
aft. Maybe removing the gas tank and rudder quadrant, because the center 
section is deeper in this IOR narrow and pointy transom, a very skinny person 
with long arms might be able to reach the clamps. See diagram below.

 

Have any owners with a similar configuration had the exhaust hose replaced? The 
exhaust hose actually makes a loop high up into this transom section before 
exiting at the fitting. Any suggestions, tips, tricks on how to remove the hose 
clamps and hose from the fitting are welcome.

 

Use Courier font for drawing (not to scale):

 


 ___ 

/   |

   /() 

  / |

 /  |

~   ~

   ~~

  / |___||_

 /  ||

   =/=  ||

   /||

\__ ||

   \||__

||

rudder

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Stus-List boat terms

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I own a 1974 CC 33 ¾ ton

 

I have looked around a bit and cannot find any reference to the term “3/4
ton” (in CC terms). I did find the spec sheet available on sailboatdata.com
for the ¾ ton but no explanation there. If anyone on the list can point me
in the right direction I would appreciate it. Also, using the spec sheet on
sailboatata.com is there a way to figure out the height off the water (or
min clearance) from those measurements? Thanks in advance 

 

Burt

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Re: Stus-List boat terms

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

This is all I could find. Notes from the spec sheet. 

 

The 'semi custom' CC 3/4 TON was the first design by Rob Ball for CC
yachts. The hull and sailplan are the same as that of the slightly later
production version of the CC 33-1.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List boat terms

 

I own a 1974 CC 33 ¾ ton

 

I have looked around a bit and cannot find any reference to the term “3/4
ton” (in CC terms). I did find the spec sheet available on sailboatdata.com
for the ¾ ton but no explanation there. If anyone on the list can point me
in the right direction I would appreciate it. Also, using the spec sheet on
sailboatata.com is there a way to figure out the height off the water (or
min clearance) from those measurements? Thanks in advance 

 

Burt

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Re: Stus-List boat terms

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Somehow I knew this was an easy one for all you listers. Thanks so much. My 
next stop is IOR ton rating. Had no clue…

 

I wonder now how many and for how long CC made these custom class-racers.  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 1:55 PM
To: jtsails; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat terms

 

Burt,

 

James’ answer leading you to search using “IOR ton rating is good advice.  In 
short, the term “ton” was based on an IOR rating band that allowed IOR boats to 
race “one design”.  IIRC the popular “ton” classes were: ¼. ½, ¾, 1, and 2. 
Sailing Anarchy has had several recent topics that cover IOR and “Ton” racing 
well.

 

Calypso would have rated as a 2 tonner. A J-24 sized boat would be close to a ¼ 
tonner.  Today there is a resurgence of ton class racing with ¼ and ½ ton 
regattas being well attended.  Boats that had been neglected for years are 
being resurrected, modernized and raced hard.

 

Back in the heyday of IOR racing I had the opportunities to race extensively on 
¾, 1, and 2 ton class boats.  The racing was tight and fun.  We used bloopers.  
In the PNW town of Bellingham a regatta called PITCH (Pacific International Ton 
Championship) was started in the early 80’s.  The racing was as intense as the 
partying. Protest meeting often went past dinner time.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 9:41 AM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat terms

 

Burt,

The 3/4 ton term is a reference to the old IOR rating system. It was an effort 
to create level rating classes of boats that could be raced with figuring 
handicaps. Do a search on IOR ton rating.

I don’t think there is enough info on sailboatdata.com to calculate clearance.

James

1976 CC 38

Oriental, NC

 

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 12:19 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Stus-List boat terms

 

I own a 1974 CC 33 ¾ ton

 

I have looked around a bit and cannot find any reference to the term “3/4 ton” 
(in CC terms). I did find the spec sheet available on sailboatdata.com for the 
¾ ton but no explanation there. If anyone on the list can point me in the right 
direction I would appreciate it. Also, using the spec sheet on sailboatata.com 
is there a way to figure out the height off the water (or min clearance) from 
those measurements? Thanks in advance 

 

Burt

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Sorry for the rookie question but what is the steaming light?

 

For sailboats I am aware of the deck bi-color, masthead and stern lights, 
tri-color (which is mounted  on the mast and used as an alternate to the deck 
mounted bi-color and stern lights, and the anchor light. Is “steaming light” 
another term for masthead light?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 10:49 AM
To: Andrew Burton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

 

… and I could could buy a bigger (CC!) boat if I had a dollar for every time I 
have seen the tri-color AND the ship’s running lights on at night. Here’s 
another one that I found “amusing”, sailboat under power, tri-color light on, 
and the steaming light lit. Now there’s an interesting lighting configuration.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave Godwin
1982 CC 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/ 

 

 

 

On Nov 3, 2014, at 2:49 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 

Bob, a tricolor is indeed a substitute for deck level running lights. But it 
may only be used while sailing. And it should never be used in addition to deck 
level lights.

Andy

CC 40

Peregrine


Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Nov 3, 2014, at 13:38, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Joe:  it is my understanding that a masthead tricolor is not a substitute for 
deck-level running lights--it can and should be used in addition.

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com http://dainyrays.blogspot.com/ 

 

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I guess it was the mast head term that had me confused at first but a quick bit 
of research shows that the 225 degree forward facing light 2/3 of the way up 
the mast is indeed referred to as the mast head light (where we put the spaces 
notwithstanding). I thought that was the light at the mast head but no that is 
the anchor light. I was down with all that but then saw the steaming light term 
and thus the question. It all makes sense to me now and frankly “steaming 
light” makes more sense. It is only used when steaming and it is not at the 
head of the mast. Sorry to start back up a conversation that has undoubtedly 
been had many times before. Thanks for the education  

 

From: Marek Dziedzic [mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 11:56 AM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

 

It is kind of funny how a “steaming light” can many people confused.

 

The main point is that a sailboat is a sailboat and boat under power, depending 
on its current situation at the time (if the engine is running, it is a power 
boat, if it is not running, it is a sailboat (the actual term is “in use” (not 
“engine running”), but from what I read so far, if your engine is running and 
you are simply out of gear, you would be still considered “under power”)).

 

The lights configuration has to reflect what you are.

 

A sailboat (let’s not dwell on the length at this point) needs the side lights 
(red and green) and the stern light (white).

 

A power boat needs the same side lights and an all around white light.

 

How you accomplish the above is up to you (or the boat manufacturer). 

 

The most common approach is to have an extra “steaming light” that closes the 
circle  - your stern light plus the steaming light provide full 360 degrees 
white light. This way you have one switch to turn your sailing lights (side and 
stern) and another one to turn the steaming light, when you turn on the engine.

 

Another option is to have a full circle white light (e.g. on top of the mast) 
and use your side and stern lights when sailing and the side lights and the 
full circle white light when under power. This requires to have a separate 
switch for your stern light (and of course one for the full circle light), 
because if you use full circle light, you have to switch your stern light off.

 

You cannot repeat any prescribed light so, if you have tricolour on the top of 
the mast, you cannot use the side (bow) lights or vice versa.

 

People who sail off shore tend to put a tricolour on the top of the mast for a 
number of reasons. One is that it is only one bulb (instead of three). Another 
is that, especially with some waves, the deck level lights are not visible from 
afar. My personal experience is that you cannot see them from more then two 
wavelength away. But you cannot use the tricolour AND the deck level lights at 
the same time.

 

People who sail in-shore or in coastal water would say that a light at the 
masthead is of no use, because nobody looks that high up. Even an anchor light 
at the top of the mast might be too high on some anchorages.

 

Interestingly, the same discussion is (was) happening at the Sailboat Owners 
Forum.

 

Marek

 

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 11:05 AM

To: 'Dave Godwin' mailto:dave.god...@me.com  ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

 

Sorry for the rookie question but what is the steaming light?

 

For sailboats I am aware of the deck bi-color, masthead and stern lights, 
tri-color (which is mounted  on the mast and used as an alternate to the deck 
mounted bi-color and stern lights, and the anchor light. Is “steaming light” 
another term for masthead light?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 10:49 AM
To: Andrew Burton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

 

… and I could could buy a bigger (CC!) boat if I had a dollar for every time I 
have seen the tri-color AND the ship’s running lights on at night. Here’s 
another one that I found “amusing”, sailboat under power, tri-color light on, 
and the steaming light lit. Now there’s an interesting lighting configuration.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave Godwin
1982 CC 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/ 

 

 

 

On Nov 3, 2014, at 2:49 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 

Bob, a tricolor is indeed a substitute for deck level running lights. But it 
may only be used while sailing. And it should never be used in addition to deck 
level lights.

Andy

CC 40

Peregrine


Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Nov 3

Re: Stus-List Anchor question

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have never had any issues with my Danforth but it is pretty sandy / mucky
around here. In fact the last time I used it a front came through Newport
and blew real hard all night long. Didn't move at all. I was more worried
about my ground tackle than dragging the anchor.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 2:26 PM
To: M Bod; CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor question

 

My Bruce 30# has worked well for my 37+ in the Chesapeake Bay.  If I wanted
to improve my anchoring performance I agree with Martin's thoughts of a
kellet.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 6, 2014 10:08 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Looking for feedback on new anchors. 
Currently I have a Kingston brand, 30lb, CQR anchor. Not too impressed with
its ability to bite even into the nicest sand. 
Having read a ton of info, reviews and comments I'm looking at the 'new'
style anchors. I was tempted to go with a Mantus - but price is high and no
local distributer. Ronca's are on sale right now at the Binnacle - so that
makes the decision easier. 
The question is what size. I've read the typical 'minimum 1 foot of chain
and 1 pound of anchor for every foot of boat'. But not sure how well it
applies to new versions. 
Reading Ronca's recommendations
http://www.rocna.com/product-range/sizing-guide
My 8000lb 30 ft CS 30 would easily fit the 10kg (22lb) recommendation. 

Sure. For the extra $60 I could bump up to the bigger anchor. Not sure how
well either will fit on my bow. I'm sure the heavier anchor would be harder
to haul up - but maybe worth it for the peace of mind?

Reading some independent reviews (as posted by Ronca)
http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/independent-performance-testing.ph
p
One claims the Ronca 15 consistently held with 4500lbs. 
A chart ( The ABYC Horizontal Working Load (lbs) Table) of expected anchor
strains suggests a 30ft boat would only exert 2800lbs of anchor strain in a
60kt severe storm --- not something I expect to confront in my costal
cruising. 

I'm on the fence. On one hand tempted to just bump up to the 15kg and deal
with the minor extra challenge dragging the anchor up (I'm fit enough to
manage) - then its never a concern and when I do start venturing further
along the coast I have a security blanket. 
On the other wondering if I'm getting into foolish overkill as the 15kg
anchor could manage a boat 2x my weight in a heavy storm. 

Thoughts and opinions welcome. 

Mark


-- Dr. Mark Bodnar --

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing my boat and Sea cocks

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Beyent,

 

Congratulations on your purchase! I am in a similar position although I have 
relatively extensive power boat ownership experience. When it comes to 
winterizing they are very similar. The standing rigging being the major 
difference. I see many owners here keep their rigs up over the winter. Up 
there, I might talk to some local folks about that. I don’t know what those 
kinds of temperatures would do to your rig. I am taking mine down this year 
because I am having the boat transported to my home but it stayed up last year.

 

I would welcome other opinions but IMHO I would not bother draining anything 
engine related as long as you run the correct anti-freeze through the cooling 
system as you described. I will admit that we don’t have experience with that 
kind of cold down here in Massachusetts but we will see below zero Fahrenheit. 
If you get the anti-freeze distributed through your systems it should protect 
all of it including the silencer. All the draining and disassembly sounds 
redundant. You of course need to add the correct type and concentration of 
anti-freeze to any system that has water in it. (head, fresh water, heat pump, 
etc.) Also, the sea strainer on the intake of your raw water cooling system may 
need to be drained or I just pour anti-freeze into it if there is any standing 
water left in there. Mine empties out pretty well when on the hard with the 
seacock open. Also, if you don’t have a garboard drain in the hull you may want 
to put some anti-freeze in the bilge to account for any standing water there. 
Make sure you treat your gas. I like to make sure my tank is full in order to 
minimize condensation but there are others who like to keep the tank as empty 
as they can to avoid having all that fuel age over the winter. I use Startron 
and have never had a problem even with gas that has sat for a couple years. I 
use a higher concentration than suggested on the container.

 

Burt

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bernard 
Toews via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2014 9:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing my boat and Sea cocks

 

 

I'm new to cnc. I should mention that I have never owned anything bigger than a 
two man dinghy until I bought  a 1979 34 CC ( Hull No. 175) so I'm in the 
unfortunate position of knowing very little about my boat and so I have lots of 
questions and only a few answers. Websites, books and forums are very important 
to me. I would classify myself as an inexperienced boat owner although I am 
some experience sailing a keel boat.

I am trying to learn to maintain the boat myself and I'm finding that the 
learning curve is very steep. I am trying to get to know my boat and make sure 
I do things right. 

 

I am winterizing the boat myself for the first time. I live in an area with a 
harsh winter climate (Winnipeg, Manitoba) where the temperature can drop to 40 
below Celcius in the winter (not counting wind chill factors). The boat has a 
raw water cooled 30 hp Atomic 4 engine. I want to make sure that I am doing 
everything correctly when winterizing my boat. I have pumped RV 50 below 
anti-freeze into the engine until the anti-freeze ran out of the exhaust. I 
didn’t warm up the engine at the time since the boat was on the hard and I had 
no water source. So, in order to be safe, I will be taking out the thermostat 
and running anti-freeze through the engine again. I will then open and leave 
open the three drain plugs or cocks ( cylinder block drain cock located on the 
port side, drain plug located on the port side near the water pump, and the 
manifold drain plug).  I have been told to drain the muffler in full for the 
winter but I don’t know what that means or how to drain the muffler or even 
where it is located. Also, I have been told to loosen the water pump cover and 
drain it. I’m not sure how to do this. I would welcome responses and comments 
about these matters and also if there is anything else I should be doing to 
winterize the engine or other parts of the boat.

I welcome any suggestions about sea cocks as to where they are located and 
which sea cocks should be open over the winter and which should be closed 
during the winter. 

 

I apologize for this lengthy message and will try to be brief in the future. 

 

Beyent

 

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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I 
have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the 
mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties 
it out. Am I crazy?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 11:13 AM
To: 'Joel Aronson'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'Wally Bryant'
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

Aluminum plate + stainless fasteners + bilge water  = electrolysis at its best.

And add to that a very crappy, and inadequate float switch and rule pump lead 
wires (if you happen to have those), and it gets even more fun.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:20 AM
To: Wally Bryant; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was figuring 
out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties. 

Joel

On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from 
McMaster-Carr.  I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull.  This was 
an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now.  However, I 
can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's 
hose clamped to the bracket.  That's turned out to be a good idea.

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm

Wal

Tom wrote:

I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the 
plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much easier 
than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.

My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless 
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?



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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Atomic 4

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

+1 for Ken 

 

In my experience Ken is right on the money. I never store my batteries inside 
during the winter. I put them up fully charged and disconnected and they are 
always near fully charged in the spring. They also last longer than their 
warranties. Been doing that for 40 years. There is also of course science to 
back up that statement. It is a waste of time and significant energy to remove 
your batteries from the boat for the winter. 

  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2014 11:21 AM
To: Rich Winslow; cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Atomic 4

 

Hi Rich,and all,

 

 I understand wet cell batteries lose their charge if left in the cold  This 
is pretty much exactly backward.

 

Wet storage batteries hold their charge better, longer, the colder it is.  
Fully charge them, pull one cable off each battery so there is no possibility 
of discharge through ship's systems and leave them where they are.

 

Top them up with the charger in the spring when it is warm and you're good to 
go.  They won't need much.

 

 

Supporting article: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/self_discharge

 

or this one: http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq13.htm

 

Quote: Store in a cold dry place, but not so that it will freeze...  Which, 
if you have a fully charged battery is about 77 degrees below zero...

 


Approximate
State-of-Charge
(SoC)

Approximate
Depth-of-Discharge
(DoD)

Approximate Electrolyte Freeze Point


100%

0%

-77°F
(-67°C)


75%

25%

-35°F
(-37°C)

 

Ken H.

 

On 2 November 2014 09:56, Rich Winslow via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 

Rich Winslow

 

I removed batteries and rested them on 2 x 4's in my heated basement-  I 
understand wet cell batteries lose their charge if left in the cold, and when 
discharged, they can freeze.

 

 

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-request cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sat, Nov 1, 2014 12:16 pm
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 106, Issue 2

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Atomic 4

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Bernard. If you have questions just give them a call. Looks like there are a 
lot of options for your thermostat and housing.

 

www. http://www.moyermarine.com/ moyermarine.com/

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2014 11:21 AM
To: Rich Winslow; cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Atomic 4

 

Hi Rich,and all,

 

 I understand wet cell batteries lose their charge if left in the cold  This 
is pretty much exactly backward.

 

Wet storage batteries hold their charge better, longer, the colder it is.  
Fully charge them, pull one cable off each battery so there is no possibility 
of discharge through ship's systems and leave them where they are.

 

Top them up with the charger in the spring when it is warm and you're good to 
go.  They won't need much.

 

 

Supporting article: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/self_discharge

 

or this one: http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq13.htm

 

Quote: Store in a cold dry place, but not so that it will freeze...  Which, 
if you have a fully charged battery is about 77 degrees below zero...

 


Approximate
State-of-Charge
(SoC)

Approximate
Depth-of-Discharge
(DoD)

Approximate Electrolyte Freeze Point


100%

0%

-77°F
(-67°C)


75%

25%

-35°F
(-37°C)

 

Ken H.

 

On 2 November 2014 09:56, Rich Winslow via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 

Rich Winslow

 

I removed batteries and rested them on 2 x 4's in my heated basement-  I 
understand wet cell batteries lose their charge if left in the cold, and when 
discharged, they can freeze.

 

 

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-request cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sat, Nov 1, 2014 12:16 pm
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 106, Issue 2

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Stus-List Jack stands

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I will be hauling my boat soon and will have it shipped to my house for the
winter (I usually keep it at the marina over the winter). This year I need
to get some things done to it that I can’t do at the yard. I am in need of
(5) jackstands (one for the bow) just for the winter. I have no plans to do
this again in the foreseeable future. Does anyone in the Rhode Island or
Massachusetts areas have a suggestion for a source?

 

Burt

1974 33 ¾ tonner

Portsmouth, RI

Storing in Walpole, MA 

 

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 CC 34

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have an Atomic 4. Love it, by the way. 

 

Yes, run motor until up to normal operating temp before introducing 
anti-freeze. Otherwise you are just winterizing the manifold, silencer, pump 
and riser. 

I fog with a spray can of engine fog and then take out each spark plug and 
spray the fogging oil into the top of the cylinder through the spark plug hole. 
I then crank the engine briefly and re-install the plugs.

I change the oil while it is still warm

I make sure the batteries are fully charged and full of acid, disconnect them 
and leave them in the boat. Charged batteries don’t mind the cold at all.

I also change my fuel filters while I’m in there but that is just me. I like to 
set up for turn-key starting in the spring.

This all assumes you run with treated gas

 

Burt 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bernard 
Toews via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 CC 34

 



I own a 1979 34 CC which has an Atomic 4 engine. 

I decided to winterize my boat myself this year rather than hire someone to do 
it. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual for draining the engine 
and putting in plumber's anti freeze.  I did this by loosening the intake water 
hose and running the motor until the anti-freeze ran out of the water exhaust. 
However, from what I read on the Net, it seems that I should have run the 
engine until it was warm so that the thermostat would open and then the 
antifreeze would have been circulated throughout the engine. Since I live in a 
harsh climate where the temperature can get to -40 degress Celsius, I am 
concerned about my engine freezing. The Atomic manual is completely silent 
about running the engine until the T-stat opens.

 Also, I would like to know what other owners of CC's with Atomic 4 engines do 
when they winterize in terms of taking out the batteries or if they disconnect 
them etc.  Also, what else should be done to winterize my boat other than 
following the Atomic 4 manual and the CC Owners's Manual. Do most owners fog 
the engine by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so, do they use SAE HD 30 
engine oil. 

Any advice would be very helpful.

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Does the 1973 MK1 have the flush mounted lights molded into the hull below
the deck? My 1974 33 ¾ tonner does and I am having trouble just finding a
lamp base for replacement. I am sure I will need to fabricate something. I
had to fabricate new lenses. (green and red acrylic sheets). My lights each
have two lamps. They look like standard automotive 12VDC incandescent lamps.
I will be happy just to have running lights. In my situation I am not
concerned about USCG certification. 

 

If someone runs into me at night and then tries to use my running lights as
an excuse I don’t think they will get much sympathy from anyone.

 

Burt

1974 CC 33 ¾ tonner

To be named over the winter

Portsmouth, RI

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 9:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

 

FYI – the running lights standard on the 1973 35 MK I, if you can find them,
are sold as “not approved for new construction”, so I think they do not meet
modern standards either. I long ago switched to an Aquasignal 25 mounted on
the pulpit which is MUCH more visible. 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

CC 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 5:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

 

Yes, you must comply with the regulations. NO, if you modify your existing
light by changing from the original bulb as supplied with the fixture, it is
no longer  legally CERTIFIED BY THE MANUFACTURER as being in compliance. If
you end up in court, you will have the burden of proving that the light you
were using complied with the regulations. It will no longer be accepted as
complying simply by virtue of being certified. It doesn't matter at all if
your light now exceeds the requirements by 2 or 3 times the visibility. It
is no longer CERTIFIED. People can try and make this as complicated and
convoluted as they like, but the facts don't care. Meeting the requirements
is not the same thing as CERTIFIED as meeting the requirements. 

Bill Bina

On 10/31/2014 12:14 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

The USCG minutia is contained in 33CFR84. You will find it in Annex I of the
COLREGS, which you are required to have on your boat if you have a Captain's
License. And which you probably have on you boat in any event.

 

33CFR88.05 says: The operator of each self-propelled vessel 12 meters
(39.4') or more in length shall carry on board and maintain for ready
reference a copy of the Inland Navigation Rules.

 

As has been pointed out before, a navigation light is certified by the light
manufacturer to comply with the USCG requirements. IF YOU MANUFACTURE A BOAT
FOR SALE IN THE USA YOU MAY ONLY USE A CERTIFIED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. If you are
a boat owner, or building a boat for your own use, you can use any lighting
device or bulb you chose, provided that the lights meet the requirements of
COLREGS RULE 22 (visibility) and RULE 23 (light patterns).

 

Raise your hand if you have one of the Davis LED anchor lights that plug
into a cigarette lighter, or a battery operated Perko anchor light you keep
as a backup. Both meet COLREGS 22 for boats less than 39 feet, but neither
are certified by the manufacturer. At least mine aren't marked as certified.

 

I can find no direct reference to the nav lights required in 46CFR
Subchapter C covering uninspected passenger vessels of less than 100 tons
carrying 6 or fewer passengers, other than the requirement to comply with
COLREGS 22  23.

 

For small inspected passenger vessels up to 100 tons carrying 100 or fewer
passengers, 46CFR Subchapter T paragraph 183.420 says: All vessels must have
navigation lights that are in compliance with the applicable sections of the
International and Inland Navigation rules, except that a vessel of more than
198 meters (65') in length must also have navigation lights that meet UL
1104 Standards for Marine Navigation Lights or other standard specified by
the Commandant.

 

Bottom line is that as a Captain you must comply with the light visibility
and patterns specified in the COLREGS, and you must have a copy of the
current COLREGS aboard. 

 

If you don't have a captain's license and you boat is less than 12 meters
you must comply with the COLREGS.

 

And if the boat is over 12 meters you need to comply and carry a copy of the
COLREGS.

 

I could not find anything in the 2000+ pages of Federal Regulation I got
while obtaining my Masters License that indicates you need to use a
certified light, use the same type of bulb, or buy the same bulb used in
building your boat - but you must comply with COLREGS 2223.

 

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad


On Oct 30, 2014, at 21:38, Russ  Melody via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I'm guessing from previous discussions that you only need to worry about
this USCG 

Re: Stus-List survey now brokers

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Buyers brokers have become common both in real estate and floating estate
here in the states. Like any broker, they can be very valuable and helpful
or bordering on fraudulent and everywhere in between. Good luck.

Burt

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 10:39 AM
To: dziedzi...@hotmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey now brokers


Really,

I thought they would all represent a buyer, just like real estate brokers.
They may not advertise as a *buyers* broker but, I'm willing to bet most
brokers would be happy to help find you a boat for a cut of the commission.

Danny
-- Original Message --
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey now brokers
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 10:34:28 -0400

I guess in some markets this is doable. Personally, I could not find one,
where I needed him (her). But the surveyors were available. In fact,  I
interviewed three of them before selecting one.

Marek
s/v Legato
Ottawa

-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 10:26 AM
To: Danny Haughey ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey now brokers

I am not sure if everybody realizes but a common practice is to find your
own buyers broker to represent your interest.  I did that when we purchased
Persistence because I knew and trusted him and he is right next door.  My
broker contacted the listing broker and between them took care of many
details that it would be difficult for me to do since the boat was nearly
1000km from here by road.  Financially the listing broker and buyers broker
split the commission down the middle.

I really liked this arrangement because it really helped my own interests
and in a situation such as Jon mentioned would probably have helped him as
well.

This arrangement was great for me

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 11:16 AM
To: dwight...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey

Dwight said;
the brokers don't share that feeling because he often finds too many
problems,

There is a good point!  Ask the broker which surveyors to stay away from and
use that as your short list!!  LOL

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: dwight via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: 'Hoyt, Mike' mike.h...@impgroup.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List survey
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 09:57:37 -0300

Not sure I agree with you there Mike, I think it depends on the
surveyor...around here if TBoats (Iain Tulloch) is your surveyor I think he
does the same detailed inspection every time...I have had him survey Alianna
twice, 5 years apart for insurance purposes and each time I was there and
saw him go over the boat with a fine tooth comb...he checks everything,
including rig, deck, hull and rudder moisture content, hull valves,
electrical wiring, fuel lines, etc. and he includes lots of photos in the
report...my insuance company, Royal Sun Alliance, likes his work but I
believe the brokers don't share that feeling because he often finds too many
problems, some of which might discourage a buyer

Dwight Veinot
CC 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: October 28, 2014 9:25 AM
To: Jon Tasker; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List survey

Jon

Was the survey done for you?  Did you pay for it?

There are two types of surveys.  There is a pre-purchase survey commissioned
and paid for by the potential buyer and there is an insurance survey
commissioned and paid for by the existing owner for insurance purposes.  The
buyers survey is usually more detailed and is there to point out the
potential issues as well as strengths of the boat.  An insurance survey does
not always record everything to the same level of detail and is designed to
put a valuation on the boat for insurance purposes.  I have had both done.
I like my insurance company to have a very high opinion of my boat.  However
when buying I like to know potential expenses I will incur in order to
determine a fair price

So back to the original question.  Who paid for the survey?

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Tasker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2014 10:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 105, Issue 76

I also bought my boat in Racine and got a multi-page report from the
recommended surveyor. The survey was dishonest from start to finish, had the
seller's interest in mind and future survey business. Had it been honest, I