Stus-List Re: Outhaul

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Love ya back. Sent from my iPhoneOn May 23, 2024, at 8:28 AM, cenelson--- via CnC-List  wrote:
I recommend installing a purchase of some kind inside the boom—my 1995 36XL came that way from the factory—either 3 or 4 to 1. Out haul is then led to a simple cam cleat on the companionway ‘bridge’—no winch involved.Charlie NelsonWater PhantomSent from the all new AOL app for iOSOn Thursday, May 23, 2024, 1:13 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  wrote:
  
   Our C 34R came with a short wire outhaul that we added a 4:1 purchase that lives inside the boom.  A 3/8" line exits the goosneck and is run back to a clutch next to the companionway.   You can tension the outhaul by hand instead of using a winch, this way.  Harken shows a diagram of this setup on their website.
   
  
    
   
  
   Chuck S
   
  
    
   
  
 Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Now Repairing Awlcraft

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Beautiful work! Worth the sail.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 27, 2023, at 4:01 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Promised pics of the Awlcraft repair.  Launched Touche' yesterday.  The scuff 
> marks were repaired.  Again, the paint was Awlcraft 2000 Sunfast Red.
> 
> Before repair:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FQt41lVzJan53DjasgmSXMALKRj7IwaJ/view?usp=share_link
> 
> After repair:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EnrZpVRYDwe5EH9bfv79bJeAuRaPFuFb/view?usp=share_link
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: It's a jungle down here

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Sounds like a typical Lake Pontchartrain sail!

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 12, 2022, at 8:47 PM, Todd Williams via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Wow! I have never seen WEEDS like that. It is a jungle!
> 
> Up here in New York we get marine growth from the lake bottom that reaches 
> the surface about this time of year. Apparently this weekend we had five 
> boats that collected enough weeds to foul their propellers and render the 
> boat inoperable. Two couldn’t coast to the dock and needed to be retrieved 
> with another vessel. The talk from the wise ones is that this year the weeds 
> have been the worst ever.
> 
> Some marinas have a device to trim the weeds with a big set of shears like 
> you would use for a Marines’ crew cut and a conveyer belt to hoist the 
> cuttings on to a barge. Agricultural runoff pollution is often to blame for 
> the prolific growth.
> 
> Fun times!
> 
> TODD
> Indigo Out We Go
> Sodus Bay, NY
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 12, 2022 at 9:33 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Wild story.  Smart solution.  
>>> On 09/12/2022 9:15 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Touche's slip is on Bayou Castine on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain. 
>>>  Fairly tropical most of the year.
>>> 
>>> Monday I went for a nice sail on the lake.  Well, nice if you don't count 
>>> the biting flies and love bugs.  If you don't know about love bugs, Google 
>>> them.  They're disgusting creatures whose only natural enemies are 
>>> Kenworths and Peterbilts.  They occur in spring and late summer.
>>> 
>>> Just out of my slip I saw a 5-7 foot alligator then another about 8-9 feet. 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The bayou has developed a prolific growth of water weeds.  As I came to a 
>>> tight spot in the bayou, the weeds forced Touche' and a Catalina 34 to pass 
>>> close aboard in a narrow section of the bayou.
>>> 
>>> When I returned to the slip, the weather was deteriorating and I wanted to 
>>> get Touche' tied up before the storm hit.  Oh, crap!  A large island of 
>>> weeds had drifted across the entrance to Touche's slip.  I tried to back up 
>>> to it, grab it with a boat hook and move it out of the way.  No luck.  The 
>>> storm was approaching fast so I just powered into the slip bow first 
>>> pushing the weeds in with me.  The island of weeds wrapped around the bow 
>>> and keel.  I normally back in.  The dock lines worked and Touche' was 
>>> safely tied up when the storm hit.  It was raining hard and I was reluctant 
>>> to get wet to retrieve the shore power cord to fire up the air 
>>> conditioning.  All that was missing was for The Rock to show up in his 
>>> Jungle Cruise costume.
>>> 
>>> During the storm, I sweated and pondered how to clear the weeds.  
>>> Fortunately, the storm killed any wind.  I backed out of the slip, motored 
>>> around to the far side of my pier, tied Touche's stern to the pier and used 
>>> the propwash to blow the weeds out of the slip and into the bayou.  I could 
>>> then pull back around the pier and back into the slip normally.  
>>> 
>>> The harbormaster said he'd contacted Wildlife and Fisheries to come spray 
>>> the weeds.  Estimated 2-3 weeks.  What joy!
>>> 
>>> Here's pictures:  
>>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qIsKMu82fMUa_zSF_QhDqLjBycwYQCx2?usp=sharing
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The one titled "Weeds blown out" shows using the propwash to clear the slip.
>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: Storm damaged marina? Are you liable?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

The Municipal Yacht harbor in New Orleans was fully rebuilt after Katrina
with FEMA money. I assume FEMA money does not apply to private marinas. For
the newly rebuilt marina with floating docks able to withstand surge which
would overtop the levees, its management has published a guide to secure
boats for a hurricane. There is no hurricane strength category or removal
requirement. Failure to follow the guidelines, including removing all
canvas, is a cause to terminate one's lease. There are many still in the
marina who take a "why worry because I am insured" attitude about hurricane
prep.

A quick Google search turned up a story about similar claims of a marina
near WIlmington NC caused by Hurricane Issac. New potential claims theories
circulate like wildfire among trial attorneys. So it is not surprising that
Dennis' marina has picked up on this tactic. I am guessing that his marina
was not insured.

It is now common for marina owners to require that the marina be named as
an additional insured. I am not 100% certain but it is likely that this is
only for liability purposes. Your guest slips and falls on the dock. I do
not believe this creates a first party claim for the property damage to the
docks. I cannot answer whether a boat owner has legal liability for damage
to the marina. Was it legally caused by an act of God or did he do or fail
to do something that he should have. This question will be answered by a
court somewhere.

I take pictures of my storm prep as I walk away from the boat. It might be
overkill but I prepare fully for even tropical storms. In 2020 I must have
unrigged 5-6 times. If damage occurs and you can get access, take more
pictures not only of your boat but with the growing threat of marina
claims, to the damage it sustained. In 52 years of boat ownership in New
Orleans, I have lost only one, a C 27, to Hurricane Katrina.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La.









On Fri, Mar 11, 2022 at 9:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I may have posted this before but a new development has occurred.
>
> I had Touche' in a marina in Pensacola during Hurricane Sally in September
> 2020.  The boat was in a slip on a floating pier well up Bayou Chico.
> Similarly constructed piers are advertised as being safe for Category 3
> storms.  Although it was properly secured, Touche' sustained moderate
> damage during the storm.
>
> Subsequent to the storm, I, and several other owners of boats moored on
> this pier, received letters from the marina's legal counsel informing us
> that OUR boats had damaged THEIR pier and that we were liable for damages
> in excess of $15,000.  Another marina in the Pensacola area which was
> destroyed has also sent letters advising liability to their tenant
> boatowners.  The new development: another owner informed me that he had
> gotten a letter last week raising the liability to $57,000.  I have not
> received a similar letter.
>
> Based on my personal post-storm inspection of the pier, here's what I
> believe occurred.  The marina allowed a LARGE power catamaran to be moored
> on my pier.  During the storm, this vessel apparently broke loose.  I
> observed the cleats to which I believe the vessel's stern lines were
> attached were missing, having been ripped from the dock.  When it broke
> loose it apparently pulled the main portion of my pier and caused extensive
> structural damage to the pier.  Namely, all the attached finger piers
> became tilted and/or broke loose from the main pier.  Several boats which
> were moored in the slips were damaged as a result.  It is my belief that
> had the catamaran not broken loose, Touche' would have weathered the
> strorm unscathed.
>
> Although this legal action may be a standard procedure in order for the
> marinas to establish contributory/shared liabilities for insurance
> purposes, it can be stressful for boat owners.  My marina required me to
> list them as co-insured so this issue is basically between the marina and
> my insurance provider now.  If I receive another letter, I'll just forward
> it to my insurance provider like I did with the first one.  My insurance
> provider basically told them to pound sand.
>
> Just advising the list.  You might want to contact your insurance
> provider.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C Photo Album
> site.
Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C Photo Album site.

Stus-List Re: IDA - C check in

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

A relative went through my home today and reported no damage. I am fortunate. 
But reports of other friends and family report similar successes. The major 
damage is in Lafitte and Grand Island LA both S of New Orleans. 

The surge on the south shore of Lake Pontchartrain we’re 5.5 feet above normal 
tide. The floating docks did its job.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 31, 2021, at 5:09 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the update.  Sounds like you weathered the storm in good shape 
> (unlike some others).
>  
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2021 5:00 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: IDA - C check in
>  
> Update.  Dock neighbor says Touche' is fine.  The water is now 4-6 inches 
> over the pier.  The highest was 4.5 feet over the pier.  Fortunately, there 
> is no wave action in my marina.  Touche's slip is at  30°20'59.25"N  90° 
> 3'14.41"W which is well off the lake.
>  
> Here at the house we're still without power with no indication of when 
> restoration will occur.  Generator is keeping the beer cold and the ice 
> frozen.  Life is good (well, kinda).
>  
> Make no mistake.  Ida was one nasty storm.  I feel for the folks in NOLA.  
> The loss of the major transmission line is going to delay power restoration 
> for weeks.
>  
> I went to get materials to repair a broken window.  Few  traffic lights are 
> working.  Those few gas stations that have gas have long, long lines.  Those 
> few fast food places that have power have long lines.  
>  
> I-10 westbound through Baton Rouge was absolutely packed with cars.  I 
> suspect many folks that didn't evacuate the New Orleans area for the storm 
> are now leaving because they won't have power for weeks.  Not sure if I'd 
> like the idea of leaving my house in NOLA without power and a monitored 
> security system.  Sad commentary but true.
>  
> Communication was nonexistent until yesterday afternoon when we got minimal 
> text service.  Voice calling and internet cell service followed about 2-3 
> hours later.  It was this way for Katrina.  
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: IDA - C check in

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

On Thursday I secured Briar Patch l. Removed main and Genoa and doubled dock 
lines. The new harbor is floating docks with perhaps 18 feet rise. It takes 
some of the anxiety out of hurricanes.

I left Friday for my son’s home in Greenville SC. I am old enough that  I never 
liked Ida from the time it was a tropical wave in the Caribbean. I beat the 
rush driving out Friday.

Have seen a picture of the harbor. Just a few blown out jibs. Couldn’t see 
Briar Patch but I am expecting to find her as I left her. Power outage is 
another question.

Ed Levert
Briar Patch C 34
New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 30, 2021, at 6:28 PM, LKL via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Dennisfor checking in and letting us know you and the Admiral are 
> ok and safeand wishing the same for others in your area and hoping you 
> find Touché well.
> 
> Lloyd Lippe 
> Finesse
> LF 39
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Aug 30, 2021, at 4:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The Admiral and I spent a scary sleepless night listening to 50-70 mph gusts 
>> working on the many big trees around the house. One branch took out a couple 
>> panes of glass in the master bedroom and the top 15-20 feet of a large oak 
>> tree in the front yard bent over but stayed in the tree. Lots of branches in 
>> the yard this morning. Otherwise we’re okay. 
>> 
>> Fortunately, the eye passed about 20 miles east of us so we got very little 
>> rain. 
>> 
>> We have no power, internet or cable.  We just got cell phone service about 
>> an hour ago. 
>> 
>> The water in Touche’s marina was 4.5 feet over the dock.  I have not heard 
>> any news about Touche’ yet. The water is still high in the marina. 
>> 
>> Our friends in New Orleans might not have been so fortunate. Hope to hear 
>> from Ed Levert and Kevin Benoit but suspect it may be a while.  A major 
>> electrical transmission tower blew down and left all of Orleans Parish 
>> without power. That will not be an easy fix. 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touché 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville,LA
>> 
 On Aug 30, 2021, at 8:10 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
>>> 
>>> Everyone OK in the Gulf area?
>>>  
>>> BTW, either a storm jib or storm jib + triple reefed main works for me in 
>>> 50.
>>> 50 foot waves though ………..I think I would pass on that one! That is 
>>> almost mast height! YIKES! I have never been in waves higher than the boat 
>>> is long and look to continue that trend.
>>>  
>>> Joe
>>> Coquina
>>> C 35 MK I
>>>  
>>> From: Bill and Gaynor Hoyne via CnC-List  
>>> Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2021 1:31 PM
>>> To: Stus-List 
>>> Cc: Stu ; Bill and Gaynor Hoyne 
>>> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Don't forget the upcoming rendezvous
>>>  
>>> Hi All,
>>> I am on a drillship just south east of hurricane Ida. We rode out the edge 
>>> of the hurricane last night. We were about 80-100 miles from the centre of 
>>> the storm. It was a bumpy ride! Saw some 50’ waves and 50+ knots wind. Lots 
>>> of big breaking waves. I was wondering what sail configuration would have 
>>> worked out here :-) :-) 
>>> If the internet is working better I will try to join the meeting.
>>> The Hurricane is about to hit New Orleans and Louisiana later this morning. 
>>> Lets let Dennis and the southern gang know we are thinking of them! I wish 
>>> them all the best, it’s going to be a tough go!
>>>  
>>> Stay safe out there!!
>>>  
>>> Bil
>>>  
>>> Bill Hoyne
>>> Mithrandir
>>> ’74 C MkII
>>> in Victoria,BC
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>>> Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: IDA - C check in

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I am old enough to know I did not like the looks of Ida when it was a
tropical wave in the Caribbean . I secured Briar Patch Thursday removing
both sails and doubled lines. I left town for my son's home in Greenville,
SC. The newly completed yacht harbor has floating docks. They really take
away (some) of the anxiety that hurricanes present. I have seen a picture
of the harbor and there doesn't appear any shredded headsails as last
year's lesser hurricane produced. Could not see Briar Patch but I believe
she will be there when I return after power is returned, who knows when.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Mon, Aug 30, 2021 at 5:06 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The Admiral and I spent a scary sleepless night listening to 50-70 mph
> gusts working on the many big trees around the house. One branch took out a
> couple panes of glass in the master bedroom and the top 15-20 feet of a
> large oak tree in the front yard bent over but stayed in the tree. Lots of
> branches in the yard this morning. Otherwise we’re okay.
>
> Fortunately, the eye passed about 20 miles east of us so we got very
> little rain.
>
> We have no power, internet or cable.  We just got cell phone service about
> an hour ago.
>
> The water in Touche’s marina was 4.5 feet over the dock.  I have not heard
> any news about Touche’ yet. The water is still high in the marina.
>
> Our friends in New Orleans might not have been so fortunate. Hope to hear
> from Ed Levert and Kevin Benoit but suspect it may be a while.  A major
> electrical transmission tower blew down and left all of Orleans Parish
> without power. That will not be an easy fix.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville,LA
>
> On Aug 30, 2021, at 8:10 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Everyone OK in the Gulf area?
>
>
>
> BTW, either a storm jib or storm jib + triple reefed main works for me in
> 50.
>
> 50 foot waves though ………..I think I would pass on that one! That is
> almost mast height! YIKES! I have never been in waves higher than the boat
> is long and look to continue that trend.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* Bill and Gaynor Hoyne via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 29, 2021 1:31 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Stu ; Bill and Gaynor Hoyne 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Don't forget the upcoming rendezvous
>
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am on a drillship just south east of hurricane Ida. We rode out the edge
> of the hurricane last night. We were about 80-100 miles from the centre of
> the storm. It was a bumpy ride! Saw some 50’ waves and 50+ knots wind. Lots
> of big breaking waves. I was wondering what sail configuration would have
> worked out here :-) :-)
>
> If the internet is working better I will try to join the meeting.
>
> The Hurricane is about to hit New Orleans and Louisiana later this
> morning. Lets let Dennis and the southern gang know we are thinking of
> them! I wish them all the best, it’s going to be a tough go!
>
>
>
> Stay safe out there!!
>
>
>
> Bil
>
>
>
> *Bill Hoyne*
>
> Mithrandir
>
> ’74 C MkII
>
> in Victoria,BC
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Mk2 - swapping jib / spinnaker halyard

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

The jib halyard at the masthead is designed to exit the mast in a straight 
line. A spinnaker will exert a pull to either side. Years ago we lost the 
spinnakers head swivel leaving the halyard up the mast. Set another spinnaker 
on the jib halyard. But the wire cut through shortly thereafter having been cut 
by exit plates at the masthead. 

Try swapping halyards at deck level so that the spinnaker comes out on the 
desired side and the main exits on the opposite side.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2021, at 10:29 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi John
> 
> I would be worried about the pin halyard getting tangled with the jib halyard 
> due to gybing, etc ...
> 
> Our most often used spin halyard is on the port side as well.  On windy days 
> you can just brace your back against leeward shrouds while jumping the 
> halyard.  It has not been a problem.  For stbd roundings we usually opt for 
> the stbd spin halyard which would then be in the same situation
> 
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: John Heaton via CnC-List  
> Sent: May 7, 2021 11:54 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John Heaton 
> Subject: Stus-List C Mk2 - swapping jib / spinnaker halyard
> 
> Hi folks - on my C 29 Mk2 the jib halyard comes out on the std side of the 
> mast and the spinnaker on the port side and I want to reverse them to make it 
> easier to "jump" the spinnaker halyard.
> 
> Anyone else done this - I noted the spin halyard exits the mast higher than 
> the jib halyard, so I will probably do this in the fall when the mast has 
> been dropped?
> 
> thanks
> 
> CAN363
> Double on the Rocks
> Toronto
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 34 re-power HP

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

My C 34 was reported by a prior owner with a Yanmar 2GM30F. Seems to be 
plenty of hp.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 16, 2021, at 1:27 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> WE put a 25 hp Beta in our 33-II when we did her – been great lots of power. 
> Also went with a Flex-o-fold 2 blade prop, if I needed more push id upgrade 
> the prop to a 3 blade flex-o-fold.
>  
> From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
> Sent: February 16, 2021 2:08 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
> Subject: Stus-List C 34 re-power HP
>  
> Hello,
> I have a 1978 C 34 with original Yanmar 2QM20.  Looking at Betas and 
> wondering what horsepower to go with if I were to repower.  I've heard of 
> people with 20, 25, 30HP in these boats.  We're in the Salish Sea off of 
> Vancouver Island and often need to battle wind, waves and current.
> Thanks
>   Jeremy
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Donating w/o PayPal

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Stu

Can the checks be in US dollars?

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 4:54 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Stu - will do.
> Many thanks,
> Hans Reinhardt
> S/V Ete’
> C 37
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 13, 2021, at 1:42 PM, Stu via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >
> > Hans and others wishing to donate without PayPal
> >
> > 1. Cheque or money order payable to:
> > Stu Murray
> > 33 Langton Road
> > London, Ontario, Canada
> > N5V 2L9
> >
> > 2. In Canada - e-transfer to s...@cncphotoalbum.com
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > Stay safe & healthy
> > Stu
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message- From: Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List
> > Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2021 4:00 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Hans Reinhardt
> > Subject: Stus-List Donating w/o PayPal
> >
> > Hello Stu,
> > I am a newly participating list member. Time for me to start donating.
> However, I no longer use PayPal, etc. And my electronic technology skills
> are marginal. Is there an alternative way to send in a donation?
> > Thanks!
> > Hans Reinhardt
> > S/V Ete’
> > C 37
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list
> to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the
> list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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Stus-List Re: Bottom painting question

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Within the hour my C 34 was hauled after 2 years since the last. Heavy
slime only on Petit Trinidad. Brackish water. Petit wants the boatyard
owner to use its "new" paints but the owner doesn't want to apply paints
that do not have at least 2 years experience in use.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch, #336
New Orleanss, La

> *Subject:* Stus-List Bottom painting question
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Function of electric power aside, unless one is exclusively connected to
shore power, you need a big array of solar panels. To my eye, they ruin the
beauty that a C design presents.

With regards to electric power with a sail drive, I would not want a hunk
of aluminum stuck in salt water, a hunk with the need to replace a gasket
on a regular schedule. Much more involved than changing the strut bearing
and packing.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La

On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 7:13 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Electric power is HUGELY dependent on what you expect to do with your
> boat. I just got back from taking my boat to the yard. That was 4 hours at
> 6.5 knots. If I had enough batteries to do that with electricity I could
> forgo the keel. It wouldn't be unusual for us to cover 60-80 miles under
> power in a day on a cruise and one memorable trip - for bad reasons - we
> motored from Annapolis to Long Island sound. When you have 2 or 3 weeks
> vacation, someplace to be, and no wind forecast for days on end electric
> isn't going to work at all. It wasn't real fun, but we got to see all of
> Long Island Sound and actually had 30 knots on the beam from Block Island
> to Cape May going home :)
>
> OTOH some people live where there is a consistent breeze and only need to
> get in and out of a marina or mooring field. Electric is great for that.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
> On 8/11/2020 3:51 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Chandler,
> Glad that my ramblings were useful.  Honestly, I do think that electric
> systems are the way of the future and with an engineering background it
> should be entirely doable for you.  I am a mechanical engineer and work
> wind wind energy so I have a pretty good grasp of the fundamentals although
> I am no expert in batteries and controllers - in any case feel free to run
> things by me if you want.  Sounds like an exciting project and I would love
> to follow along and see what you decide.  I also didn't know that Rob Ball
> had converted his 34 to electric so that is encouraging and a nice data
> point!  Starting with a good motor and controller and some cheap batteries
> that can be upgraded later could be a good way to go.  Maybe I'll start
> putting together the specs for a system for my boat this winter ...
>
> Anyhow, if you can limp the old engine along, getting to head out and sail
> your new boat a this season while you figure it out sounds like a great
> plan.  Definitely the best to get out sailing and then see what things you
> want to change/improve.  I suggest you invest in a US Tow Boat gold
> membership (something like $250/year I think) so if your engine dies and
> there is no wind you can get a tow back home without breaking the bank.
>
> BTW, Stu (who manages the list) requests that we all trim out the previous
> messages from our replies so as not to fill up the list server storage
> faster than required (otherwise every message gets stored multiple times).
>
> Nathan
>
> S/V Wisper
>
> 1981 C 34
>
> Lynn MA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Prettiest C

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Dennis with all due respect the all time prettiest C on Lake Pontchartrain 
was Whistling Wind II a Redline 41. She unfortunately was a casualty of 
Hurricane Rita having survived Katrina weeks earlier. That leaves Touché as the 
current top beauty.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 22, 2020, at 4:55 PM, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The tank test model of the 61 is now in the Canadian Museum of History in 
> Hull Quebec
> 
> JK
> 
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
> 
>> 
>> Wow a C in a museum 
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Argh!!! Jetski rear-ended us! Help?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

In Louisiana, the vessel owner is responsible even if he was not operating
the vessel at the time. Find out if Florida has similar laws. The release
may not relieve the rental company of liability to you.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 10:02 AM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes, we will be getting reports from the Pinellas County Sheriff, the
> Treasure Island marine police, and even the bridge tender has agreed to
> provide a witness statement.  We also have photos of the jetski riders.
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> Date: 6/15/20 10:50 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: "Dennis C." 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Argh!!! Jetski rear-ended us! Help?
>
> What documentation do you have?  USCG or Florida Marine Patrol incident
> reports?  If nothing, get something soon.
>
> Did you take pics of the jetski, driver, etc.?
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Florida COVID checkpoint

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Anyone who states that sailing is not an an essential part of life must not 
have psychological needs. 

Sailing and or boat maintenance in a marina are one of the few activities 
compliant with social distancing that I can think of today. I am a New 
Orleanian who has been in Houston since 2/10/20 while my wife undergoes 
treatment. Public parks here and at home are open to people who practice social 
distances. Explain to me how being on the water with your immediate family is a 
risk to you or others. I agree with Dennis about the measures he takes to 
protect himself and others. But we must continue living and our governments 
must allow us to reasonably live. You and I are more at risk going to the 
market than a sail on open water.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2020, at 4:39 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Man it a serious threat. Don’t think this is fake news. There is a big 
> problem with spread down there according to cnn. Here we are advised to 
> isolate. Stay home that is unless we have to go out in society for essential 
> business. Sailing is not essential. Many of us expect to miss the 2020 
> sailing season altogether. Lots of marinas are restricting normal things. It 
> will be iffy to get launched. You got it good, you’re in the water 
> 
>> On Wed, Apr 1, 2020 at 6:05 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Yesterday on the way to Touche' I had the pleasure of going through the 
>> Florida COVID checkpoint on I-10.  Fun to the max I can tell you.
>> 
>> On approach, signs and orange pylons directed traffic into the right lane 
>> then off the Interstate into the weigh station.  Semis were culled first and 
>> allowed to proceed.  Louisiana vehicles (me) were culled to the right and 
>> into the back of the weigh station.  All others were allowed to proceed with 
>> no delay.
>> 
>> I had to stop at a station where a lady in a mask and gloves wrote my truck 
>> license number on a form which she gave to me and directed me to a parking 
>> area to complete it.  It asked for identification, contact info, where I was 
>> staying in Florida and purpose of visit.  I had to sign the form 
>> ackonowledging that if I didn't adhere to Florida's COVID policies I could 
>> be fined $500.  I handed the form in at another station and proceeded on.  
>> Whoopee.
>> 
>> There must have been 30 Florida Highway Patrol cars in the weigh station, 
>> all with their lights flashing.  All the troopers were standing around.  A 
>> few had assigned traffic flow jobs to do but it seemed like overkill to me.  
>> I guess they wanted to be prepared in case a car load of infected Coonasses 
>> from the Louisiana bayous tried to mount an invasion.
>> 
>> Bit of hypocrisy from a state which up until a week or so ago was still 
>> allowing folks to raft up on boats and party.
>> 
>> My marina and boatyard is still operting but has some staff working from 
>> home.  It's pretty quiet here.  They hauled/launched a few boats.  I can 
>> hear sanding and working in the yard.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> Currently docked Pensacola, FL
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List All Marinas in Miami closed

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Cher either dat or you gotta eat da hole sac!

Ed Levert 
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans


Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 22, 2020, at 1:22 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Just saw a newly coined word for those guys "covidiots".
> 
> Here in Louisiana, the price of crawfish has dropped precipitously.  That 
> indicates some folks are heeding the advice to limit large groups of people.  
> 
> Yeah, you gots to stay home, cher.  You don go bringing yourself to no 
> crawfish boils, no?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Sun, Mar 22, 2020 at 10:32 AM James Hesketh via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Just received an email from my Marina in Miami
>> 
>> Yesterday some idiots sent out a mass email inviting boaters to a raft-up at 
>> a sandbar for today.
>> 
>> The Mayor saw this and issued an order to close all boating activities for 
>> pleasure boaters. 
>> 
>> All Marinas are closed -- boat owners will be allowed to check on their 
>> boats, but no work or maintenance will be allowed. I'm assuming our 
>> liveaboards will still be allowed to say aboard. 
>> 
>> I'm in the middle of painting my decks/cabin/cockpit and have all the deck 
>> hardware removed (including cleats -- my dock lines are currently ties to 
>> the toe rail) so there are a lot of holes to keep covered. 
>> 
>> All public ramps are closed, and police will be patrolling the waters and 
>> will stop any boats under way.
>> 
>> The only exception is for commercial fishing vessels that sell to 
>> businesses. 
>> 
>> Good Luck to you all. 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Ted Turner came to New Orleans and sailed a race with my cousin Buddy 
Friedrichs, 1968 Olympic gold medalist in Dragons. Never laughed so much from 
Turner’s barrage of stories. Laughed more when Buddy sent him to do foredeck! 
He was pathetic. 

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 22, 2019, at 4:42 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was sailing with Turner in a race in Annapolis when we hoisted the half 
> oz, then the 3/4, then the 1.5 oz and god took all three down. Good thing 
> because by the time the 1.5 exploded we were too scared to douse it!
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI 
> USA 02842
> 
> +401 965 5260
> https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> 
> 
> 
>>> On Dec 19, 2019, at 21:05, David Risch via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> "Man puts it up and God takes it down"... Ted Turner sometime in the 70s.
>> 
>> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>> 
>> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Michael Brown 
>> via CnC-List 
>> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2019 8:44:56 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Michael Brown 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing
>>  
>> Let me guess, easiest take down ever.
>> 
>> Michael Brown
>> Windburn
>> C 30-1
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: "Della Barba, Joe"  
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>> Sent: 12/19/2019 11:23 AM 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing 
>> 
>> During an informal race up the Chester with a C 40 it was just my wife on 
>> board with me managing the chute. We had to harden up to a beam reach for a 
>> section of the S-turning river right when a big gust hit and launched 
>> red-white-and-blue nylon confetti all over the river L
>> 
>> I had the unenviable task of informing my wife those bits of nylon were 
>> going to cost more than what her car was worth to replace.
>> 
>> On the plus side all the luff tapes held, we had an empty triangle still 
>> flying!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Joe Della Barba
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
>> Risch via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2019 11:15 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: David Risch 
>> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Breakage…don’t forget the breakage - 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> 
>> (401) 419-4650
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2019 10:48 PM
>> To: CnClist 
>> Cc: Dennis C. 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Yes, spinnakers can nearly double your racing costs.  Years ago, at the 
>> height of Touche's racing program, we had 0.6, 0.75 and 1.5 oz chutes, two 
>> part high tech Dyneema/StaSet spin sheets, Harken carbo-ratchet tweakers 
>> (twings), custom chute launch bags, double pole downhaul(goes down each side 
>> of cabin and is trimmed in cockpit), a spinnaker halyard parking cleat, a 
>> "defraculator" (don't ask), light air spin sheets and probably a few more 
>> boat bucks of stuff I can't recall.  I'm guessing all that adds up to 
>> somewhere around 10 big boat bucks.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> You don't need to dive in that deep.  A used chute, a few blocks and some 
>> old sheets will start you off just fine.  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Yes, you can race spin on a budget and still have a lot of fun.  The best 
>> way to experiennce spin racing and learn is on someone else's boat.  That's 
>> what I did.  I spent several years crewing before I bought Touche' and 
>> started my own racing program.  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> 
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> On Wed, Dec 18, 2019, 7:37 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> You are correct regarding expense--spin racing just requires more of 
>> everything--crew, boat, gear, sails, food, drinks, etc. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I like to race in what my crew prefers and also in the most competitive 
>> arena. Locally at least, the JAM fleet is not competitive enough for 
>> us--except for those whose high ratings in light air make it impossible to 
>> race fairly against them. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Of course I like to win but more importantly I want race in a competitive 
>> fleet, even if I come in last but close to my competitors. Winning most of 
>> the time in our local JAM fleet is not as much fun as busting our collective 
>> as...es to come in last among the best local racers. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> That's my story and I am sticking to it!!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Charlie Nelson
>> 
>> Water Phantom
>> 
>> C 36 XL/kcb
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks 

Re: Stus-List Tips for finding and keeping racing crew

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I have to disagree with Dennis on the value of boat T shirts. We had 16 oz
styrofoam cups with the boat name and boat with sailplan printed on the
cups. Perhaps it was our age at the time but it always seemed the crew
couldn't care less what they were wearing if the cup was always full! On
light air Lake Pontchartrain we cleaned up with a 27 Mk I.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans La

On Tue, Dec 17, 2019 at 3:45 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2019 at 5:17 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Keep it relaxed.  Have fun.  Focus more on the enjoyment than the
>> performance.  After the crew starts showing up regularly, they'll start
>> wanting to be more competitive.  It should come from them.
>>
>> Give out a bunch of T-shirts.  When other folks see your crew on the dock
>> and on the boat in them they'll want to race with you to get one.   I get
>> mine from  https://www.maritimetees.com/.  They're reasonably priced and
>> you can get your boat name/logo on them.
>>
>> As for the rant.  Get off the helm!!  Let them drive.  Rotate positions.
>> Let them do their positions.  Unless there is a safety issue, suggest
>> corrections later.
>>
>> We have a local boat where the owner always drives.  He's not a great
>> driver.  His attention is everywhere but driving.  He pinches constantly.
>> (SLOW)  Result: boat rarely sails well.  Crews don't like to stay on a boat
>> that is a perpetual loser.
>>
>> Remember, there is a BIG difference between RACING a sailboat and
>> developing a racing sailboat PROGRAM.  As the skipper, you have to assess
>> each crew member's strengths and weaknesses.  Maximize their strengths.
>> Minimize their weaknesses.
>>
>> When I say each crew I mean it.  I rarely drove Touche'.  Make no
>> mistake, I'm a pretty good driver.  But during our most successful years,
>> we had a guy who was better.  The driver ONLY drove.  I usually did
>> foredeck.  Doing foredeck, I was idle a lot of the time.  It worked out
>> well because I could focus on training, tweaking, encouraging crew to do
>> their finest.  I could also focus on the boat and tactics.  After each race
>> we popped beers and had a critique.
>>
>> Too often the owner tries to drive, call tactics, call sail trim, and
>> everything else.  To me, that's not a recipe for success.
>>
>> We had a boat here where the skipper provided crew T-shirts.  Great!
>> Until he collected them after each race.  :(
>>
>> Again, it's a program.  It's not an ego trip for the skipper/driver.
>> There's more than one boat in my area folks just don't want to sail on.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Haul for Winter or not-do full-time in-water boat’s possibly suffer more from osmosis?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I purchased my 1981 C 34 in October 2012. Previously she spent time in
Lake Champlain, the New River, NC, and Niceville, Fl before winding up in
New Orleans. The latter 3 home ports would indicate year round afloat. I
have hauled out annually for fresh anti fouling paint. During my ownership,
I have had only 1 blister exposed by annual sanding. This annual sanding
has not been down to the gel coat but should have revealed a blister
problem. My belief based on experience with a 1971 C 27 with many many
blisters is that if blisters haven't developed by now, your exposure will
be minimal.

Ed Levert
C 34
Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 6:14 PM sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Christian,
> Currently I don't live in the tropics. However I do live aboard in a very
> wet climate, known as the Pacific Northwest. I run a dehumidifier during
> the winter to keep the mold and mildew at bay.
> 3 boats and 15 years I have noticed no ill affects.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Sv Rebecca Leah
> C LF39
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC wa.
>
>  Original message 
> From: Christian Planton via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/3/19 15:33 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Christian Planton 
> Subject: Stus-List Haul for Winter or not-do full-time in-water boat’s
> possibly suffer more from osmosis?
>
>
>
> My question is do full-time in-water boat’s possibly suffer more from
> osmosis? I have gotten the reply that I should every few years to let the
> hull dry out. What do boats in the tropics do?
>
> Christian
> Peer Gyth
> 1980 C 34
> Saugatuck, CT
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I have a ST 60 knot meter. The unit started reading intermittently and then not 
at all even though the wheel spun freely and had no marine growth. I replaced 
the paddle wheel and the speed registered. The old paddle wheel had 5-6 years 
of annual bottom paint application. I have not gone back to the old paddle 
wheel but I suspect that the paint build up on the wheel and the surface of the 
transducer just above the wheel was of sufficient thickness to block the 
impulse. Scrape any paint from the paddle wheel and transducer surface and try 
it out.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 26, 2019, at 6:21 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've always suspected what Gary is saying.  Look at this site:
> 
> https://www.hodgesmarine.com/Garmin-Gst-43-Speed-Temp-Thru-Hull-Transducer-p/gar010-04283-00.htm
>  
> 
> If you look close and use your imagination, you can see what Gary is talking 
> about.  There is no extra border around the transducer.  The paddle wheel 
> goes right to the edge of the transducer.  So, if there is any growth on the 
> thruhull, it may interfere with the wheel's spinning.  
> 
> Would have been nice if the wheel had a 1/4 inch or so of space all around it 
> that you could clean when you pull it.
> 
>  Dennis C.
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 5:34 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> My experience with the Nexus paddlewheel is that the transducer bushing 
>> develops a bit of shmutz around the bottom perimeter which interferes with 
>> the paddlewheel when pushed in.  It spins free when removed but binds when 
>> installed.  You may need to clean the bottom of the bushing.
>> 
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, 
>> USA
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List The "oopstang" or deck tie down brackets - pics

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I removed the “oopstang” mounted to the main bulkhead starboard side in the 
head in order to reseal. On reinstallation it appears that the deck dropped as 
when bolted to the bulkhead in the same holes, the deck plate of the oopstang 
could not be brought down to become flat on the deck. Perhaps 1/4 in gap.

Ed Levert
1981 C 34
Briar Patch

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 24, 2019, at 5:33 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Got to boat and took pics of the deck tie downs ("oopstngs").
> 
> This pic shows the two tie down plates on deck.  The location corresponds to 
> the forward and aft bulkheads of the starboard side hanging locker.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-5OxL14w1dKN8fI251y8St2gRxSgZTF6/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> Closeup of one of the plates.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-2IpySrKOwYvoDlqE1bLMCskCg-bEBpl/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> Forward tie down bracket inside locker.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-28TGUSEiFHeXLbdvBr8qPYVrZZKxDYT/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> Aft tie down bracket inside locker.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I1zhWdhXU7fF7-t6hRHhBU7oTQxk7_p6/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> As Rob Ball said, the bulkheads are floating.  They are held by the tie down 
> brackets and fit into a groove in the headliner.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List USCG documentation renewal scam - again

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

In a bit of protest, I marked the notice of the Maritime Documentation
Center "Return to Sender". Let them throw it away!

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La

On Tue, May 28, 2019 at 4:28 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For the record, the USCG Documentation Center is in West Virginia.  Go
> figure...
>
> Neil
> 1982 C 32 FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C.
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 28, 2019 5:11 PM
> *To:* CnClist
> *Cc:* Dennis C.
> *Subject:* Stus-List USCG documentation renewal scam - again
>
> Well, it's that time of year.  I got my annual notice from "Maritime
> Documentation Center", Billings, Montana.
>
> For any owners new to this list, this notice always brings a chuckle to
> many of us.  Maritime Documentation Center is NOT the USCG Vessel
> Documentation Center (VDC).  It is a private third party entity who will
> file your renewal for you for what many of us consider an exorbitant fee.
>
> They are always consistent about sending their notice out quite a bit
> BEFORE the USCG sends you the official renewal notice.  Simply wait until
> you receive the official notice from the USCG VDC and then go online and
> renew for $26.  You'll save a few $$$ that you can spend on a new boat toy.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Gybing a headsail

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Tack close to the mast?

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Mon, Mar 18, 2019 at 6:59 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> As Andy Burton alluded, the secret to gybing a headsail, particularly a
> large overlapping genoa, is to keep the tack close to the mast.  You need
> to ease the old sheet while hauling in the new one keeping tension on both
> sheets.  If you let the tack go forward, it may well wrap on the forestay.
>
> I store Touche's anchor on the pulpit with the stock up and the shank
> down.  If I don't keep the tack close to the mast, the genoa inevitably
> fouls on the anchor stock.  :(
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Broken paddle wheel on speed transducer

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

https://www.marine.com/store/m/293-Airmar.html

You can replace just the paddle wheel if that is all that was broken. Otherwise 
you will have to replace the transducer if the prongs that hold the paddle 
wheels are broken. 

Ed Levert 
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 12, 2019, at 12:25 PM, Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> During haulout, the paddle wheel was broken, part of the St60+ unit.  Does 
> anyone know of a Raymarine shop that offers used or repaired units for resale.
> 
> Liz McDonald
> Breakaweigh 
> C 44
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Hull windows

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I think  windows in the hull are ugly.  But then so are the boats they come
in. Used to be that for a sailboat to be seaworthy for an ocean crossing,
they were required to carry hard covers for the coach roof windows in case
of breakage. If you want windows buy a Buick by the sea.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Sat, Feb 16, 2019 at 5:16 PM coltrek--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would have to agree with Chuck that it probably isn't a good fit for our
> boats,  but I do like them and they are kind of cool. It is slick to watch
> the green water flowing by.
> Some caveats I can think of are compromising the structure of the hull,
> after all we are bending these boats like a bow and arrow. Another might be
> getting a good frame  for the lens. So that it would be strong enough and
> tight enough to withstand pounding waves .   Those ports are super heavy
> tempered glass, not acrylic,  put in with urethane that sticks like car
> windows. Which of course holds up and sticks lot better and longer than
> plexiglass. I am really surprised that a lot of oh, well us, don't replace
> those windows with tempered glass. There is a place called tempered glass
> of Prussia, in Pennsylvania that makes custom tempered glass.
>
> Bill Coleman
> C 39
> --
> On Saturday, February 16, 2019 David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I was looking through Sail magazine this morning and noticed several boats
> with windows in the topside hull.  It seems to be a growing trend.  My
> general sense of windows is that at some point in their lifetime, they will
> begin leaking so windows that will be underwater periodically would concern
> me.  Are these windows mounted differently from those in cabin tops to give
> confidence in their structure or is this a feature to avoid altogether?
> Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Problems removing rudder from Custom C 43

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Try putting 2 proper size nuts on the threaded rod. Back them up together
until tight. Then with a wrench on the inside nut, see if you can get
movement on the rod when you apply force to the wrench. The idea behind
this is to use the outer nut as though it is the hex cap on a machine bolt.
If you are able to back out the rod, I have no idea if it will allow you to
drop the rudder.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 7:38 PM Neil Holtzhausen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We own a custom C 43 and are attempting to remove the rudder to
> service/replace bearings as needed. We have successfully removed all the
> nuts and bolts of the quadrant, but are having trouble removing the final
> threaded bolts securing the post in position. (These are two threaded bolts
> coming out of the sides of the post, with a ring/washer at the end of the
> thread, closest to the post, but this item can not be removed with a
> wrench, as it is round. photos available at
> https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/rudder-post-removal.195200/
> )
>
>
> Can anyone provide info regarding how to remove these threaded bolts ?
>
> Also, once these are removed, will we be able to drop the rudder?
>
> Any suggestions where to find replacement bearings if needed?
>
> Best lubrication to use?
>
> Any advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> s/v Tiger
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Richard:

Measure your existing tank. Then check the Moeller web site for a compatible 
plastic tank. USCG approved. Ordered from Amazon. Fit like a glove.

Ed Levert 
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 15, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
> available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
> fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
> Thanks 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> 
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Car Paint

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

An even older auto paint story.

In the mid 1960's my cousin Buddy Friedrichs was campaigning for the 1968
Olympics in the Dragon class. All boats were made in Europe and were either
varnished or painted white. Buddy, a maverick, only had red boats. Before
leaving for Acalpulco, he had the boat painted red by Fact-o-Bake, a low
end local auto paint shop. The finish was flawless and Buddy won the gold
not even needing to sail the last race.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La

On Thu, Nov 1, 2018 at 2:58 PM robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Approx. 12 years ago, a club member took his Kirby 25 to an auto paint
> shopthey painted the boat a 'dark green', a GMC truck color auto
> paint. sprayed several coats, nice paint job.
>
> We wondered how it would hold up.  It still looks quite good after
> seasonal exposure to the elements.
>
> I will admit I was quite surprised since I didn't initially think it would
> last several seasons without cracking, splitting, bumbling, etc.  I thought
> the maybe any flexing of the hull would distort the paint.   It didn't as
> the paint shop understood what they were doing and added the sufficient
> paint additive used to paint plastic bumpers and fenders that naturally
> flex without the paint cracking.
> FYI
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2018-11-01 12:17 PM, Christian Planton via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Great paint job. I had wondered in the past would car paint to the job? it
> last for decades without fading and can be spot fixed. Any thoughts?
>
> Christian Planton
> Peer Gynt
> C 34 1980
> Saugatuck, CT
>
>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] inexpensive chartplotter

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

In July, I bought a Raymarine a78 plotter, a close out for $300 from
Raymarine. I have Raymarine instruments but the main selling point was the
Raymarine brand (Lighthouse) charts which are based on NOAA charts which I
grew up with. Navionics and C-Charts are options. I am happy with it and it
has more functions than I will ever use.

In researching, it seemed to me that the emphasis for plotters was as fish
finders. Someone pointed out to me that as long as the chart chip is
current, you are good to go and don't need the latest bell or whistle.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

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Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Dan

Had first time worried back in the 1970’s. Pull the transducer with one hand 
and inset the plug with the other. Good luck

Ed Levert


Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2018, at 9:58 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm 
> using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if 
> the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses 
> will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a 
> wiring issue (95% certain)... 
> That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of 
> the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around 
> the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only 
> other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel 
> with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely 
> and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky 
> business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...
> 
> WISH ME LUCK!
> 
> Dan
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> What Ed says. 
>> 
>> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the 
>>> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting 
>>> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a 
>>> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.
>>> 
>>> Ed Levert
>>> C 34 Briar Patch
>>> New Orleans
>>> 
>>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> Thanks guys.
>>>> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and 
>>>> there's no current lol.
>>>> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it 
>>>> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach 
>>>> under to spin the wheel manually...
>>>> 
>>>> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I 
>>>> can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for 
>>>> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the 
>>>> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at 
>>>> all? not even a "0.0.0"?
>>>> 
>>>> Dan
>>>> 
>>>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not 
>>>>> discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the 
>>>>> water.
>>>>>  
>>>>> From: Edward Levert via CnC-List
>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
>>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>>> Cc: Edward Levert
>>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>>>>>  
>>>>> Dan
>>>>>  
>>>>> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar 
>>>>> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though 
>>>>> the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. 
>>>>> My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse 
>>>>> signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint 
>>>>> might solve your problem.
>>>>>  
>>>>> Ed Levert
>>>>> C 34 Briar Patch
>>>>> New Orleans
>>>>>  
>>>>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List  
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm 
>>>>>> trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the 
>>>>>> issueis with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe 
>>>>>> you know where I'm going wrong?
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" 
>>>>>> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav 
>>>>>> computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no 
>>>>>> temperature data)
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> I've got:
>>>>>> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
>>>>>> Black, and Shield to Ground IN
>>>>>> Red to Speed Voltage IN
>>>>>> Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN
>>>>>> Brown to nothing
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no 
>>>>>> Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be 
>>>>>> turning to get speed sentences?
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> Dan
>>>>>> Breakaweigh
>>>>>> C
>>>>>> Halifax, NS
>>>>>>  
>>>>>>  
> 
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Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Dan

You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the
boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting
the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a
person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks guys.
> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and
> there's no current lol.
> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it
> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach
> under to spin the wheel manually...
>
> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I
> can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for
> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the
> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at
> all? not even a "0.0.0"?
>
> Dan
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not
>> discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.
>>
>> *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Edward Levert 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar
>> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the
>> paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My
>> guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal
>> the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve
>> your problem.
>>
>> Ed Levert
>> C 34 Briar Patch
>> New Orleans
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm
>>> trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the
>>> issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you
>>> know where I'm going wrong?
>>>
>>> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor"
>>> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.
>>>
>>> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav
>>> computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature
>>> data)
>>>
>>> I've got:
>>> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
>>> Black, and Shield to Ground IN
>>> Red to Speed Voltage IN
>>> Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN
>>> Brown to nothing
>>>
>>> With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no
>>> Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be
>>> turning to get speed sentences?
>>>
>>> Dan
>>> Breakaweigh
>>> C
>>> Halifax, NS
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> --
>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Dan

The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar
transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the
paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My
guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal
the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve
your problem.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying
> to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is
> with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where
> I'm going wrong?
>
> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor"
> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.
>
> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer
> and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data)
>
> I've got:
> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
> Black, and Shield to Ground IN
> Red to Speed Voltage IN
> Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN
> Brown to nothing
>
> With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no
> Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be
> turning to get speed sentences?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Alan

The raw water pump on my 3GM 30 F is a Johnson pump which I believe is
available on Amazon. I will try to get a model number when I go to the boat
tomorrow or Saturday .

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 39 Sovereign

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Soverign was originally christened Cajun Queen. She had numerous owners and
was a frequent competitor in the race from the northern Gulf to Cozumel and
or Isla Mujeres. In 1975, under the ownership of Gene Walet, set the then
course record of 86+ hours.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 4:56 PM Edward Levert  wrote:

>
> There hasn't been power in the marina since Katrina. Sovereign had a
> taller mast than the sister ship she followed to New Orleans, Corrie, hull
> 2 or 3. I believe Corrie was built by Bruckman, Sovereign by C
>
> Ed Levert
> C 34 Briar Patch
> New Orleans
>
> .
>
> On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 4:18 PM John Christopher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I wonder it it was on shore power. I was reading the threads here on
>> smart plugs.
>>
>>
>>
>> /John
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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Re: Stus-List C 39 Sovereign

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

There hasn't been power in the marina since Katrina. Sovereign had a taller
mast than the sister ship she followed to New Orleans, Corrie, hull 2 or 3.
I believe Corrie was built by Bruckman, Sovereign by C

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

.

On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 4:18 PM John Christopher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I wonder it it was on shore power. I was reading the threads here on smart
> plugs.
>
>
>
> /John
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List C 39 Sovereign

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

GYA PHRF list shows John Bogil as owner. Did not know him but enjoyed
seeing the boat out from time to time. All that is visible is the mast.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch

On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 3:14 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Oh, no!!!  I lost track of Sovereign years ago.  Ed Newman owned it then.
> Did he still own it?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 2:26 PM Edward Levert via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Sovereign, a red C 39 that called Lake Pontchartrain home since brand
>> new, caught fire and sank in her slip in New Orleans. Another beauty gone!
>>
>> Ed Levert
>> C 34 Briar Patch
>> New Orleans
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>> ___
>
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Stus-List C 39 Sovereign

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Sovereign, a red C 39 that called Lake Pontchartrain home since brand
new, caught fire and sank in her slip in New Orleans. Another beauty gone!

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans
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Re: Stus-List Lake Pontchartrain incident?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

The news reported it as 34 ft but I doubt it. There is an extra port
forward on the cabin which is not found on a C 34. Don't know the boat or
owner. On line comments were that there was a line trailing the boat but
someone suggested there was no boarding ladder. The couple probably was
swimming.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 8:50 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Sadly, the lady was found deceased.
>
>
> http://www.wafb.com/story/38844087/cajun-navy-uses-technology-to-recover-body-of-missing-baton-rouge-woman-sadie-thibodeaux
>
> The boat was 34 feet.  Does resemble a C 34.  Maybe Ed Levert knows the
> boat.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 8:27 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis; do you have any insight on the incident where a person was
>> reported missing on the lake?
>>
>>
>> https://www.nola.com/traffic/index.ssf/2018/08/sadie_thibodeaux_cajun_navy.html
>>
>> The photo looks like a C 38-40?   I do hope they find the missing woman
>> safe
>>
>> Richard
>>
>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>> 502-584-7255
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
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>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Rudder repair?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

David

If your insurance company is pushing for the repair vs replacement, ask
them if they will guarantee the repair and any subsequent damages.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La

On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 3:35 PM John Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> David Who is doing the repairs and what experience do they have? Suggest
> you call a reputable surveyor ,some other repair yards and of course to get
> the real answer Nick at Fort Rachel. Best John Read
>
>
> Sent from XFINITY Connect Application
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Cc: davidakne...@gmail.com
> Sent: 2018-07-30 11:50:47 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder repair?
>
> I have a decision to make on repairing the rudder on my boat after it was
> damaged in a grounding on a reef.  The shaft is bent and they are proposing
> to straighten the shaft and then repair the fiberglass.  It was described
> to me by the surveyor as a common process and no big deal.  He said they
> used heat and hydraulics to do it while the shaft is still attached to the
> rudder.  He described one done recently on a Nonesuch as bent worse than
> mine and came out fine.  I have been looking into having a replacement
> built, but that is going to take more time and money to do, so I am
> wondering what the experience and wisdom of the group is on the issue of
> repair.  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Amazing USCG rescue - Anybody else see this?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I too have no appreciable offshore experience but it sounds a little bit of
get home itis. 17 years cruising and these were the worse sea conditions
experienced? No storm sails, sea anchor or warps? Did not heave to? Content
to move at 5kts downwind in huge seas? Make for an alternate safe harbor
even though it puts you further from home?

But we were not there. Life saved is worth more than all the Monday morning
quarterbacking we can come up with.

Ed Levert
Briar Patch
C 34
New Orleans La



On Fri, Jun 29, 2018 at 12:50 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Very powerful and emotional story.  Never having been offshore, I can only
> imagine what it would be like to be in that situation.  It did not sound
> like the boat was in danger of sinking.  What options did they
> realistically have?  Is there a way to ride out a situation like that?  I
> wonder also if the only thing you can do in those conditions is go downwind
> keeping the waves at their stern.  If you had a bit of sail and tried to
> reach or beat, what would happen?  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jun 29, 2018, at 10:02 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1739506892791962=11980054663
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List C 25 II - mast step concerns

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Stephen

The '71 C 27 Mk I had a deck stepped mast. The mast sat in an aluminum
base that sat on the fiberglass cabin top. The base was held to the deck by
through bolts aft and screws forward. (Forward screws likely into the
bulkhead cross beam.) The cabin top was a fiberglass bulsa fiberglass
sandwich.

One day sailing, I observed water squirting from one of the bolt as the
mast worked and compressed the outer cabin top skin slightly. There was not
enough deck thickness as to result in visible slacking of the standing
rigging. This was unlike the mast step failing on my C 30 where the
rigging became dangerously slack.

If you have access to the screws/bolts that you think are the source of the
leak, remove them to determine if the deck under is bulsa cored or solid
laminate. If solid, simply reseal with your favorite sealant. If cored and
the core is wet, you will have to determine the extent of the moisture
(area involved) before determining the best fix. On the 27, I dug out the
moist bulsa and laminated an aluminum plate under the step. A DYI project.
Sailed with the fix for years till Katrina claimed the boat.

Ed Levert
Briar Patch
C 34
New Orleans

On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 1:27 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>> The 25 Mk II is a deck stepped mast. Luckily, the bilge is dry and the
> keel bolts look to be in great shape. The drips are coming from the cabin
> roof where the bolts come down from mast step into the cabin ceiling
> (little plastic plugs cover them on the inside).
>
>
>  I really like the idea of keeping a close eye on the shroud tension as a
> good, objective indicator. This is our first monohull, so some new
> complexities!
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List 1981 C 34 second propane locker?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Dennis:

If you will open the port tank locker, you will notice that the hinge is
not visible on the outside. My 1981 C 34 has a storage locker on the port
side of the helm. The locker also contains a wash down spray nozzle and is
vented to the atmosphere. Try prying the lid open.

Ed Levert
1981 C 34
Briar Patch
New ORleans, La.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:49 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
>
>
> If you are looking for backup propane storage, let me offer a suggestion.
> I only can carry one tank and have a 5 kg fiberglass tank.  Theoretically,
> you can see the level in the tank but have to remember to check it.  There
> is room in my propane locker for three 1 pound camp stove cylinders.  I
> bought an adaptor (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/
> product/B0002YSY20/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8=1) so a
> cylinder can be connected in place of the tank.  For me this is especially
> good since my propane grille and outboard use the 1 pound cylinder.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *DMcMillan
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:13 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* DMcMillan
> *Subject:* Stus-List 1981 C 34 second propane locker?
>
>
>
> I have a 1981 C with a propane locker on starboard side next to the
> helmsman seat.  On the port side there is an identical looking locker but
> the “lid” does not have any hinges and seems to be glued down.   Has anyone
> converted this to a second propane locker?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Dennis
>
> Andante
>
> Victoria BC
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Re: Stus-List New 1974 C MKII 35 Owner

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Kevin:

Welcome if you are eventually returning to Lake Pontchartrain. Welcome
anyways..

Dennis- with your great salesmanship of the brand, is it time for thinking
about a Northern Gulf. C roundevouz?

Ed Levert
C 34 #336 Briarpatch
New Orleans

On Sun, Mar 18, 2018 at 7:01 PM robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> 'Gale Force' is at the RNSYSwell sailed, well maintained...still a
> great boat.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2018-03-18 6:21 PM, Rod Stright wrote:
>
> I had one for several years here in Halifax, won our class in Marblehead
> to Halifax, great boat was called Footloose III and now I believe is called
> Gale Force, great all round boat.
>
>
>
> Rod
>
> 2004 C 99
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2018-03-18 4:25 PM, Kevin Benoit via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi C Listers,
>
>
>
> I'm a happy new owner of a '74 MKII 35'.  I was told of your fine little
> list here by Dennis Cheuvront of Touche' fame.  Dennis taught me to sail
> over the past decade or so racing and cruising on his boat.  I have him to
> now thank(or blame) for the help and guidance during the search and
> purchase of my first boat.  I looked at quite a few Pearsons, Morgans, and
> many others but in the end I decided on a boat I already new pretty well.
> I'm excited to get started and proud to own a boat with such a proud and
> respected pedigree.
>
>
>
> I am taking delivery of Second Wind (new name definitely forthcoming),
> from Savannah to Pensacola Shipyard this week where I plan to do repairs
> and refits to turn her into a little less of a racer and a little more of a
> coastal cruiser.  I just wanted to say how much help I've already gotten
> from the site, the pics and from searching the archives.  While compiling
> my to-do and inspection lists, it was so much easier to plan for those
> tasks having those resources.  Just about every question I've had or
> modification I've pictured have been discussed at some point.
>
>
>
> I'm sure I'll have many more questions as the repairs and refits move
> along, but for now I just wanted to introduce myself and say thanks for
> keeping this resource alive and available.  I hope to become an active
> member of the group as soon as I have something worthy to contribute.
>
>
>
> Many pics of Second Wind in her current condition for those interested:
> https://imgur.com/a/wcw3H
>
>
>
> Kevin Benoit
>
> Name TBD
>
> 1974 C MKII 35
>
> Baton Rouge, LA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_786678104620045278_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Head Replacement

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Several years ago, I replaced the original W/C Head Mate with a Jabsco
Manual head. I'm happy with the product. I chose Jabsco in part because
several charters I have taken in the BVI, all the heads, both manual and
electric were Jabsco's. An earlier posting on this site suggested the
charter companies choice was directed by price. But I like to think that
serviceability is a key element to Jabscos being used. It is one aspect of
a charter which the company does not want to have to fix regularly or deal
with customer complaints. Plus parts are available on Amazon.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 9:13 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m looking to replace my Jabsco manual electric-conversion head on my C
> 37+ to a better electric one. While Jabsco makes a “Lite” version which has
> the same mounting holes and same connections as the one I’m replacing, I’d
> like to consider other manufacturers as well.
>
> Has anyone done this? How did you mount it to the floor? There is no
> access underneath there. Any insights welcome to help me save costs and
> avoid a, pardon the pun, crappy job.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Florida's Emerald Coast

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Putting away skies and snow boards is an understatement for the current
temperatures on the northern Gulf Coast. We have pulled out the shorts! The
south shore of Lake Pontchartrain cannot touch the Florida Panhandle which
was well described in the magazine article, but it was surely enviting for
a Mardi Gras Day sail and another last evening. 2 other C's, 39 Soverign,
and 27 Windhorse shared the lake on Mardi Gras.

Dennis - enjoy your time aboard plus bushwhacked. I need to get to the
Panhandle soon.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

On Mon, Feb 19, 2018 at 4:01 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Drink with vanilla ice cream, light and dark rum, Kahlua topped with 151
> rum.  Recipe approximate, varies with establishment.
>
> Invented at the Sandshaker Bar on Pensacola Beach.  Refined by the sailing
> community.  Obligatory drink at Pensacola Yacht Club after the Gulfport to
> Pensacola distance race.  Skipper usually buys 1st pitcher of
> Bushwhackers.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Feb 19, 2018 at 3:39 PM, rshibe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> What’s a Bushwacker?
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Feb 19, 2018, at 16:30, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Dennis,
>>
>> Switching to sailing mode as I type. Just finished packing for a 4:00 AM
>> departure to Sarasota. Florida for the Corsair Nationals. Two days practice
>> on Wednesday and Thursday. Three days of racing starting Friday.
>>
>> Push Touche’ a bit longer and further South and I’ll stand you to a beer!
>>
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> P.S. Dark and Stormy’s for me...
>>
>> On Feb 19, 2018, at 3:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Time to put away the skis and snowboard and switch to sailing mode.
>> Haven't been on Touche' since mid-January.  Planning to head over to
>> Pensacola Wednesday for a couple days on the boat.
>>
>> Found this article while doing some "web sailing".  Interesting that the
>> charter company rented a C 30.  Well, at least it can get under the
>> Navarre Beach Bridge.  Touche' is a wee bit too tall to chance it.
>>
>> http://www.ecsailing.com/ecy_cruising_la1.htm
>>
>> The article mentions Juana's Pagodas in Navarre.  (
>> http://www.juanaspagodas.com/)  I'm hoping to anchor overnight there
>> Thursday night.  Fun place.  Sip a beer or a Bushwhacker and watch Touche'
>> sitting at anchor.  Breakfast at Sailor's Grill Friday morning.  You guys
>> can keep your Pusser's and your Dark and Stormy's, it's a Bushwhacker for
>> me.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
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>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List C 30 Mast Step

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

When the mast step was rebuilt on my 30-1, the professional used fiberglass 
laminate for the stringers. I use the word professional with emphasis.  He was 
the boatright for the Olympic teams in England and China. Wood no mater how 
well sealed in a wet environment makes no sense to me.

Ed Levert
Briarpatch C 35
New Orleans 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 20, 2018, at 11:34 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had though "Live Oak" was a generic term for how some Oaks grew rather than 
> a specific species.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live_oak
> 
> Either way despite the lack of knowing the correct description the right Oak 
> is very good for marine use.
> 
> 
> Sad but years ago near me in Barrie Ontario we had what was reported to be 
> one of the larger stands
> of White Oak in Canada. A developer needed to beat a pending municipal law 
> concerning cutting of mature
> trees so early one morning a team of loggers came in and clear cut the whole 
> property. I tried to get some
> of the wood knowing its properties. The crew laughed and said I didn't want 
> it, they could barely cut it even
> with sharp chains.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
> 
> 
> Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2018 13:38:23 -0500 
> From: Bill Bina - gmail  
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 Mast Step 
> Message-ID: <03803e6a-8ee7-4d53-845a-d02dc3e63...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" 
> 
> Old ships used Live Oak, which is a very different wood than White Oak. 
> 
> Bill Bina 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: The C 27 - Reviewed

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

At the time I had a Cal 2-24 and raced against a Mk II. Gorgeous boat. Did not 
know the differences in Marks and bought Mark I Hull 57. Don’t think I ever 
lost to the Mk II. When the 27 was totaled in Katrina, the replacement became a 
30 Mk I and now a 34. The C brand hasn’t been topped!!!

Ed Levert 
Briarpatch C 34
New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 9, 2018, at 6:34 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Growing up on my father's 1971 C 27 Peregrine started my love of C 
> appreciation of pretty boats!
> Andy
> Formerly
> C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Jan 9, 2018, at 17:39, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> The C 27 is a good example of what made the company successful - 
>>> contemporary good looks with sharp, crisp lines that still appeal today. 
>>>   
>>> 
>>> Subscribe now and save
>>> 
>>> The C 27 - Reviewed
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>
>>> 
>>> The C 27 followed quickly on the heels of the successful C 35. The 
>>> design is attributed to 1970, with the first boats coming off the line in 
>>> 1971. The boat evolved through three subsequent editions - the Mark II, III 
>>> and IV (the latter are hulls #915-#975, according to an owner) - with the 
>>> latter finishing in 1982. But the hull was essentially the same and not to 
>>> be confused with the MORC-influenced 27-footer that followed about 1984, 
>>> with an outboard rudder. That boat lasted until 1987. 
>>> 
>>> The C 27 is a good example of what made the company successful - 
>>> contemporary good looks with sharp, crisp lines that still appeal today. 
>>> The sheerline is handsome. Below the waterline, the swept back appendages 
>>> are dated but that’s of little consequence to most owners. In the Mark I 
>>> version, the partially balanced spade rudder is angled aft, with a good 
>>> portion of it protruding behind the transom. In one of his reviews for 
>>> Sailing magazine, designer Robert described the C 27's rudder as a 
>>> "scimitar" shape that was "long in the chord and shallow." In 1974, the 
>>> rudder was redesigned with a "constant chord length and much greater depth 
>>> and less sweep angle." 
>>> 
>>> The keel, too, was redesigned in 1974 though both are swept aft like an 
>>> inverted shark's fin. The new keel was given 2-1/2" more depth and the 
>>> maximum thickness moved forward to delay stalling. Hydrodynamic 
>>> considerations aside, the worst that can be said of the 27's keel is that 
>>> it takes extra care in blocking when the boat is hauled and set down on 
>>> jack stands (or "poppets" as they are called here in Rhode Island). Without 
>>> a flat run on the bottom of the keel, the boat wants to rock forward. 
>>> 
>>> The rig is a masthead sloop with a P or mainsail luff length of 28' 6" and 
>>> an E or foot length of 10' 6"; interestingly, this gives an aspect ratio of 
>>> .36, nearly identical to the .35 ratio of the Tartan 4100 reviewed last 
>>> month. In response to the September article on skinny masts with single 
>>> lower shrouds, the owner of a 1974 model wrote, "My 1974 C 27 has double 
>>> lowers with a tree trunk of a mast, which I know will support any headsail 
>>> in any condition, probably even if I drove the boat full steam into an 
>>> immovable object." Not so the earliest models. 
>>> 
>>> The owner of a 1977 model wrote to say that the Mark I and II models had 
>>> shorter rigs and more ballast. The change occurred in 1974, along with 
>>> several others, some of which we've already noted. 
>>> 
>>> Length overall was first given as 27' 4"; for later "marks" it is listed as 
>>> 27' 11". Waterline length started at 22' 2", increasing to 22' 11". The bow 
>>> overhang is attractive, but more than is found on most boats nowadays. 
>>> Remember that waterline length directly affects speed. 
>>> 
>>> Displacement, too, changed over the years, between 5,180 pounds,5,500 
>>> pounds and 5,800 pounds. (The owner of hull #54 says that boats before #250 
>>> were 1,000 pounds heavier.) Depending on which waterline dimension you use, 
>>> the displacement/ length ratio (D/L) ranges from 211 to 237. The sail/area 
>>> displacement ratio (SA/D) is between 17.3 and 19.4. With moderate 
>>> displacement and a generous sail plan, the C 27 is fleet. PHRF ratings 
>>> for the Mark I average around 200 seconds per mile, dropping to about 190 
>>> for the Mark II and 175 for the Mark III. 
>>> 
>>> From the C & C 27 review. To read the complete review of this popular 
>>> sailboat, in addition to ten other entry-level cruisers, purchase and 
>>> download the ebook Entry-Level Cruiser-Racers, Volume One from Practical 
>>> Sailor. 
>>> 
>>> Get It Now 
>>>
>>>   
>>>   
>>> 
>>> You are currently subscribed to Practical Sailor as: t...@sv-alera.com.
>>> Send this e-newsletter 

Re: Stus-List C 30

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

If anyone is making a list, I think I owned #19, a 1971 hull. The metal
plate is unreadable but when I removed the backrest cushions for the
dinette, both plywood backing plates were marked 19. "Dream Girl" is in New
Orleans currently owned by my brother in law.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

On Sun, Nov 26, 2017 at 5:17 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hull 166 in 1973 here.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> STL
>
>
> On Sunday, November 26, 2017, 4:41:11 PM CST, Stu via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> According to Wikipedia (don't know if accurate or official) they claim
> that 800 30 MKI's were built.
>
> Mine was a 1973 hull number 133.
>
> Stu
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Mooring Rights -- Any "Sea Lawyers" on the List?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Following Hurricane Katrina, perhaps a dozen boats that survived were abandoned 
in the city run marina. Boats that only needed sails put back on to be usable. 
Pearsons, Rangers, Columbias , etc. The city’s solution as to what to do with 
them? Simple. Just let them sink in the slips. There they sit waiting for the 
harbor reconstruction to begin so they can be raised and scrapped. Too novel 
for the city to seize and sell them. 12+ years after the storm we are still 
waiting for work to start. I think the hold up now is infighting over who 
receives the most kickbacks out of reconstruction. 

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

>  
>  
>  
> 
>   
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Re: Stus-List 81' C 30 - removed a winch, filling deck holes for winter

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Try Marine Tex. It is white and epoxy based.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

On Sat, Oct 28, 2017 at 7:31 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've filed deck hikes with epoxy and topped with gelcoat.  You could also
> just bed a bolt with a dresser washer that's a good temp fix.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
> From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
> Date: 10/28/17 12:32 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chris Hobson 
> Subject: Stus-List 81' C 30 - removed a winch,   filling deck holes for
> winter
>
> In an effort to reduce constant dripping from a neglected winch fastened
> to my deck support along-side the mast (common on the 80’ MK2) I removed
> it, cleaned with Acetone and filled the holes with Life Caulk. That way my
> settee below doesn’t get soaked each rainfall during our Vancouver winter.
> In hindsight I realize you can’t paint silicone and that clear Life Caulk
> doesn’t match the deck. So is it better to do a job like this with epoxy?
> I.E. dig out the old silicone and replace with epoxy that matches the deck
> color (in spring of course)? I used what I had.
>
> The actual core along these deck supports on either side need to be cut
> out and replaced, but presentation is everything until I can get to that
> list item.
>
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> 1980 C MKI
> Hull 615
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I just checked the wind histories from New Orleans Lakefront airport,
Gulfport Airport, Keesler AFB, Pascagoula airport, Mobile and Pensacola
airports. The highest gust reading I saw overnight was 58 at Mobile.
Currently a 3.3 elevation in Lake Pontchartrain over normal tide. Only a
very brief rain shower yesterday afternoon in New Orleans. I am sure our
mayor has stopped sweating over failed drainage pumps.

Ed
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans LA

On Sat, Oct 7, 2017 at 10:51 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good luck, you guys. You have had repeated beatings this year.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 7 October 2017 at 19:56, Bob Caughran via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Dennis. Just got word that there's 76 boats in the cove now
>> including the biloxi schooners so I suspect we picked the right spot.
>> Touché going to get rocked from the way it looks too.
>> Fingers crossed for all boats. Should have word early tomorrow on Beemers
>> fate.
>>
>> Bob Caughran
>> Beemer, 29mkll
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 7, 2017, at 21:28, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Bob, was wondering about Beemer.  Beemer is probably the most exposed
>> boat on the list.  Hope it weathers the storm OK.  Let us know.
>>
>> As I was driving to Pensacola I saw a couple of shrimpers up the Biloxi
>> backwaters by one of the I-10 bridges.
>>
>> Many marinas on the coast boot out their tenants.  As I was doing storm
>> prep on Touche' Friday, a Catalina came into the slip next to me.  The
>> regular tenant was hauled out.  The Catalina had just gotten booted from
>> Palafox Pier, the most expensive, by far, marina in the Pensacola area.
>> Palafox Pier has floating piers but is directly on Pensacola Bay. The
>> Catalina owner was not happy.
>>
>> This is what happened to Palafox Pier after Hurricane Ivan in 2004.
>>
>>
>> http://www.pnj.com/story/weather/hurricanes/2015/09/15/hurricane-ivan-anniversary/72347546/
>>
>> Palafox Pier has a LOT of big boats in it.  Where does one take a 60+
>> foot motoryacht when it's in the only marina with large slips within 20
>> miles?  Some boatyards offer pre-paid storm haul outs.  Or I guess one
>> heads to The Wharf in Orange Beach.  That's a 25 mile run.
>>
>> Fairly quiet here in Baton Rouge tonight.  Nate has made landfall on the
>> Delta and will shortly make a second landfall on the Mississippi Coast.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 7, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Bob Caughran via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> So here's how my last 3 days have gone. On Thursday a fellow sailor from
>>> my marina in Biloxi called to let me know they were considering closing the
>>> marina for Nate. I packed up my car and headed down to Biloxi yesterday
>>> morning. Sunshine, 82 degrees and 12-15 knots from the east. I arrive to
>>> find three sailing buddies prepping their boats and waiting for me to lead
>>> them to the hurricane hole none of us have been to before.
>>> I add five gallons of fuel to Beemer, C, the harbor master helps
>>> us get off the docks and off we go at 1:30PM. It's a six to seven mile trek
>>> into biloxi bay and up the biloxi river.
>>> Two miles into the excursion going under the I110 bridge, I hear a
>>> different sound from the exhaust. I look down behind and see no water
>>> coming from the exhaust. I turn on the autopilot and run down and check the
>>> front of the engine to find the belt and pully laying under the engine. The
>>> hub of the pully still on the water pump.
>>> No overtemp alarm or light. Secondary cooling apparently keeping the
>>> temps from alarming. A mile later, bilge pump starts firing off. Back down
>>> to investigate. Hot water pressure release going off.
>>> Time to power down and toss line to friends boat to continue under toe.
>>> Now as I said earlier, none of us have ever been to these protected
>>> waters.  We find one cove and one sailboat attempts to enter. 20' 17' 5'
>>> turn around..  As we approach the I10 bridge (too low for us to go under)
>>> we spot a secluded cove with two sailboats inside. We go inside and 20'
>>> depths throughout. Three boats raft up setting three anchors. Lash to each
>>> other and seven lines going to trees ashore.
>>> Although you never feel you're secure enough to leave her, we jump in
>>> the dink at 12:30AM and motor to the pick up point where one of the wives
>>> returns us to the marina to get our cars. Done and exhausted at 2AM.
>>> This morning, get up, off to the chandlery, no pully. Ok. West marine,
>>> no pully but they suggest Tractor Supply Company. Sure enough they got it.
>>> Yeah.
>>> Jump in car and haul butt up to Hattiesburg to hole myself up till Nate
>>> passes thru.
>>> If the marina opens on Monday we will head back get the boats, if
>>> they're still floating, and head back to the marina.
>>> Special note: if the marina call 

Re: Stus-List 3GMD engine blow back

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 4:56 PM Bill Dakin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sounds like rings to crankcase blow by to me.  Does this engine have a
> breather on the side of the crankcase?  My IHC Cub engine, essentially an
> Atomic 4, has this breather that before my restoration, would emit blow by
> gasses.  There is no other source of pressure to emit oil or gas.  You
> could run a compression test once again.
>
> You may find broken ring bits in your oil pan.
>
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25MKII
>
> ___
> My 1981 C 34 was repowered about 2000 by a prior owner with a Yanmar
> 3GM30F. It obviously fit but there is almost no access to the port side.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

>


> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 2:07 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Boats I have seen cut into disposable pieces were cut with a sawzall.  I
> have seen this happen to a Ranger 26 and a Cal 29.  I don’t know why a 43
> would be much different – it would just take longer.  It’s a shame to see.
>
> My Custom 42 had extensive core wet core problems which took about two
> years to repair.  The 43 looks very similar to my boat.
>
> *From:* Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 26, 2017 10:47 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Violeta M Ivanova 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for
> free
>
> The MIT bluewater wiki was created and is maintained by MIT volunteers. I
> updated a lot of stuff last year, but have not touched it since last
> December. I have not seen XD this year. I don't know how much has changed
> on the boat and what was reflected on the wiki.
>
> More importantly, if people look at the wiki for reference, the following
> items will *not* be included with the boat:
>
> Handheld VHF radio
> Lifejackets and harnesses
> Dinghy
> MOB light and mount
> Storm jib
> Tools
> Ship's supplies (nuts, bolts, wire, tape, etc.)
> Jacklines
> Buckets
> One of the floating winch handles (one will stay on the boat)
> Foul weather gear
> AIS and splitter
> Radar reflector
> Laptop/iPads
> Chart plotting tools
> Canadian charts
> Garmin GPS
>
> Also, several people from the list have looked at the survey already. It
> seems XD is in worse shape than I'd thought. I am no expert on boat repairs
> -- I have never dealt with wet balsa core or anything like that. I am on
> this list because I am learning a lot from members with vastly more
> experience than I have. I very much appreciate people emailing me back with
> comments.
>
> Maybe someone on the list will acquire XD and we'll read more about it, or
> aybe someone else will acquire her, or maybe the boat will go to the
> cutter. Speaking of which ...
>
> How does one cut up a boat? Seriously, what do you do with a 43-foot boat,
> if you want to destroy it?
>
> I have started calling XD "it", not "she". I guess that's a goodbye.
>
> Violeta
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 23, 2017 at 1:20 PM, David via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> I know the donating owner.   Very much the engineer.  Not surprising.
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
>> Date: 9/22/17 8:28 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: CnC-List 
>> Cc: Lee Youngblood 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free
>>
>> Hi All,
>> I may be on the west coast, but check out the MIT/X Dimension wiki - as a
>> broker, I’ve never seen this much info, from an owner on their boat:
>> http://sailing.mit.edu/wiki/index.php/Systems_Descriptions#Anchors
>>
>> Wow, Lee
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>

After Katrina boats were pulled from the harbor, a back hoe or similar was
used to break them apart and then toss the pieces into a dumpster. Was very
fast and effective as the hulls and decks gave little resistance.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans, La
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I used the brass Jabsco hand pump used for oil changes, exchanging the
small tube for the dipstick with a piece of tubing that fit the input of
the pump. Took about 20 minutes to empty 12 gallons.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La.

On Fri, Sep 15, 2017 at 7:11 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Bill:
>
> Just curioushow did you remove the diesel from the old tank?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-09-14 1:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Moving ahead on the project. Old tank out.  New ordered and delivered by
> Amazon in 2 days..Moeller 19 gallon, 16 x 12 x 26.  90 degree hose and
> straight hose connector as I think Dennis mentioned.
> Two questions:
> First, if I leave at least 2 inches of the 1.5 inch fuel line inlet
> connector, can I trim its height if I need to?  It is going to be really
> tight to get the 90 degree elbow on.  need to keep the plastic "sawdust"
> out of tank somehow.
> Second, the old aluminum tank was bonded to the deck filler and the to the
> engine block.  Since this is plastic tank should I skip tank and bond deck
> filler directly to engine?  What about  the sending unit.
> Thanks
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Michigan
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>
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>
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Moeller at Amazon.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 4:04 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That was my point.  For $200 it isn't worth putting a decades old tank
> back in.
>
> When I bought Touche', it had a steel tank.  A buddy of mine gave me an
> almost new aluminum tank of the same profile.  I installed it.  After 4
> years I repowered and put in a plastic tank.  The aluminum tank was showing
> signs of pitting and corrosion after only 4 years.
>
> Accurately measure the old tank, the clearance above it and get an idea of
> space around it.  Go to Moeller's site and figure out the best fit.  My
> guess is a 19 gallon Moeller Marine 032519 but make sure.
>
> You can find them online easily.  eBay even has them.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:24 PM, robert  wrote:
>
>> For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after a
>> good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my labor
>> which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.
>>
>> Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the
>> fuel/condensation.
>>
>> A new plastic tank is under $200.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded
>>> ends.I have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it approx.
>>> 24" wide, maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is the original 20
>>> gallon tank that sits on an open wooden frame (ends on the wooden ledge(s)
>>> ) with most of the bottom exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine
>>> but it is what I can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the
>>> welded ends on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is
>>> my concern.
>>>
>>> The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
>>> maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt water
>>> environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt water on it.
>>>
>>> Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision about
>>> replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.
>>>
>>> Will keep you informed.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
 The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it
 looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing
 as special customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical
 monel tank. Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have
 been there for a while.

 Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it
 very carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has
 been kept away the condition might surprise you.

 Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.

 Steve Thomas
 C MKIII
 Port Stanley, ON

 C
 Merritt Island, FL

  robert via CnC-List  wrote:
 I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
 metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the
 fuel tank was made from?

 Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
 inspecting it and possibly replacing it.

 Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
 obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

 Any and all input greatly appreciated.

 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.




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 ___

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 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
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>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>> to make a contribution to 

Re: Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 2:39 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Cruising Compass has a before and after view of the picture of Parquita
> Bay on the south side of Tortola.
>
>
>
> There is also a link to YouTube videos of the damage to St. Martin.
>
>
>
> Here is a link: http://www.bwsailing.com/cc/
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> The infrastructure for yachting will be back in the BVI and Texas long
> before New Orleans rebuilds the Municipal Yacht Harbor.
>

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Randal
> Stafford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 7, 2017 10:51 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Randal Stafford 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola
>
>
>
> This is a sad picture:
> http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2017/09/07/11/43FCB37F0578-4861184-Boats_piled_up_as_the_eye_of_Hurricane_Irma_passed_over_Tortola_-a-4_1504778890915.jpg
>
>
>
> Sadly,
>
> Randy
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

If none of the suggestions work, go big. A saws All!!

Ed Levert
C 34
Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 5:45 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Yes.  That's my Option 4.  I'm leaning that way.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 4, 2017, at 4:46 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I would drill the top hole way oversize (like 3/8") and pull the whole
> works out through it.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 4 June 2017 at 11:50, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Good idea, but with my luck and shaky hands, I'd probably glue the slide
>> to the track.  :)  At the least, I'd get glue in the spring so it wouldn't
>> lift.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 1:35 PM, randy via CnC-List > > wrote:
>>
>>> Ouch, Dennis, but I wonder if a drop of five minute epoxy on a small
>>> bolt or dowel could be used?  Perhaps a little oil squirted in to defeat
>>> adhesion around pin/track, clean top of pin, and glue.  Go have a couple of
>>> barley pops (ne’er mind that, wait til done!), and then with some judicious
>>> wiggling of slide, lift dowel and pin enough to move slide to top of
>>> track?  At that point a piece of tin could be slid between slide and track
>>> to slide back to remove.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just a thought, perhaps you can develop better.  Good Luck,
>>>
>>> randy
>>>
>>> Tamanawas
>>>
>>> 29-II
>>>
>>> Hood River, OR
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>>> *Dennis
>>> C. via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:28 AM
>>> *To:* CnClist 
>>> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Intriguing challenge
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled
>>> knob on the deck.  It was the pull knob for the jib slide.  See pic:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide.  It is a
>>> spring pin slide.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one.
>>> This is the challenge.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Option 1:  Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in
>>> hole in T-track.  Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in
>>> order to slide it off.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Option 2:  Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove.  I have Dremel,
>>> RotoZip and side grinder.  Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they
>>> have a way of getting away from me.  I don't need a bunch of gouges in the
>>> deck.  Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher
>>> comfort level with control of tool.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Option 3:  Remove the T-track.  Plug all the holes on one end, drill
>>> hole from back side to push pin up and slide off.  Probably would have to
>>> drill a couple holes.  This is by far least desirable option.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Option 4:  Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove
>>> spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?,
>>> etc.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Option 5:  Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide.  Install new
>>> track.  Seems dumb.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Options 1 and 4 seem best.  Probably won't do this job for several weeks
>>> since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon.  Will advise how it
>>> went.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> A, the joy of boat ownership.  :)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>>
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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Re: Stus-List Engine water cooling woes on Yanmar 3GMD

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Be careful not to over tighten the belt. I believe 1/2 in. deflection is
called for. If too tight, you may ream out the slotted hole of the water
pump pulley and round down the end of the shaft. I know as I had this
happen to a newly rebuilt pump.

Ed Levert
C 34
Briar Patch
New Orleans


On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 8:43 AM mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I agree with Josh. I have seen this happen when your water pump drive belt
> is too slack; it will pump at low RPMs but not higher RPMs.
> Sometimes, during the idle winter season, the drive belt will develop a
> “set” and cause slippage.
> Tension your drive belt and try again.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C 33ii  Lovely Cruise
> SMSC NS.
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Kevin:

Before purchasing the new head, I measured and measured the available
space. I made the purchase of the larger bowl when I was satisfied it would
fit. Out of the box, the head had it pump on the right side facing the
head, same as the head I was removing. I got the new one screwed to the
base and plumbed. Only then when I put the toilet seat on did I find out
that the angled side wall prevented the seat from raising. After worrying
what to do with the new head, I had the idea to switch the pump to the
other side, an easy chore. Luckily it all fit. The moral is to see how it
fits, seat included, before you start drilling.

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 9:58 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ed,
> I got the Jabsco compact and was actually concerned about the size of it
> as well. I'm debating on switching the side of the pump as well. Did it
> gain you that much room?
>
> On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 10:21 AM Edward Levert 
> wrote:
>
>> Kevin:
>>
>> I recently replaced the head on my "81 C 34. Rather than the hanger
>> bolts shown at Home Depot at $20 each, I used lag screws. Much cheaper.
>> Also, I was able to fit a large bowl Jabsco into the head compartment by
>> reversing the pump to the left side of the head. Otherwise, the angled wall
>> forward of the head prohibited from raising the seat.
>>
>> Ed
>> Briar Patch
>> New Orleans, La.
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey everyone,
>>> I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so.
>>> Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed
>>> that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts
>>> holding it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the
>>> underside that I will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten.
>>> I can't seem to figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that
>>> maybe the wall panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it
>>> yet. Typically when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd
>>> prefer not to break something if I don't have to. :-)
>>>
>>> Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a
>>> new toilet to it?
>>>
>>> Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the
>>> old holes? If so, with what?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Kevin Paxton
>>> '82 34 #473
>>> Japhys Spirit
>>> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Kevin:

I recently replaced the head on my "81 C 34. Rather than the hanger bolts
shown at Home Depot at $20 each, I used lag screws. Much cheaper. Also, I
was able to fit a large bowl Jabsco into the head compartment by reversing
the pump to the left side of the head. Otherwise, the angled wall forward
of the head prohibited from raising the seat.

Ed
Briar Patch
New Orleans, La.

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey everyone,
> I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so.
> Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed
> that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts
> holding it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the
> underside that I will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten.
> I can't seem to figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that
> maybe the wall panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it
> yet. Typically when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd
> prefer not to break something if I don't have to. :-)
>
> Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a
> new toilet to it?
>
> Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the
> old holes? If so, with what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Servicing -- Best Tool?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I used a pair of needle nose plyers. Came off easily.

Ed
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 3:15 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> For those of you with Barient Winches on their C, what is the best tool
> to use to unscrew that top ring?
>
> See; http://www.saillistings.com/images/2014/10/02/323/
> barient-32-winch_2.jpg
>
> What works best in those two holes on either side of winch handle entry?
>
> 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous "Movie Trailer"
> 
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Cleaning/Removal

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Brian:

I have a 1981 C 34. I replaced the original tank with a plastic tank by
Moeller. The old tank came out the seat hatch although I did cut the fill
pipe a bit. It was approximately 20 gallons. Measured the old one, went on
the Moeller web site and found what was as close to an exact match as you
could want. Took the model number and ordered through Amazon. The new tank
fit perfectly including with the fill pipe and vent being in basically the
same positions as the original. It was like Moeller copied a widely used
tank. Good luck.

Ed
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans


On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 10:52 AM Brian Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I have a 1979 C 34 with the original aluminum fuel tank. I've recently
> had some engine shutdown issues that I've traced to my fuel tank. Ideally I
> would like to replace the tank with a plastic one. That was recommended by
> the surveyor when I purchased the boat. The problem is access. The tank is
> 20 gallons and is too large to remove. On the other side, I would like to
> replace it with a similar size tank. The problems, 1. how to remove the
> original and 2. how to get the replacement in.
>
> The other option I'm looking at to address the fouling issue is to clean
> out the tank. I just read an article in Practical Sailor on using a power
> washer. Any suggestions on that method or others for cleaning out the crud
> in the bottom of the tank would be appreciated.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Brian
> S/V Rekofa
> 1979 C 34
> Fells Point, MD
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

On Saturday, November 12, 2016, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd, Change your dilithium crystals!
> But seriously, lots of good advice, I would also consider a good quality
> multi meter that you can trust for accurate voltage. I have an Ideal
> digital multi meter that also measures AC & DC amps that you clamp on a
> single wire. It wasn't expensive and I use it everywhere. I guess I don't
> trust all the gadgets we have on board and some of the old equipment is non
> digital. You can use it for continuity and other diagnostics. Nigel
> Calder's book on marine electrical is worth a look if you don't have it. He
> simplifies it, my favourite tool is a hammer and vice grips run a close
> second!
> Len
> 89 37+ Crazy Legs
> Midland On.
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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Re: Stus-List Fuel tanks

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Moeller through Amazon.

Ed

Briar Patch
C 34
New Orleans

On Wednesday, October 26, 2016, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Look at the Moeller and Plastimo fuel tanks.  They may have one the same
> profile as your old tank.  They both had the exact tank for Touche'.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Wed, Oct 26, 2016 at 7:27 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Look for a Kracor or similar,  not another aluminum tank!
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List > >
>> Date: 10/26/16 19:20 (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> Cc: Gary Nylander > >
>> Subject: Stus-List Fuel tanks
>>
>> I have a leaky aluminum diesel tank on Penniless, my 30-1. I recall a
>> thread about sources, but it like a bunch of other stuff went bye-bye when
>> my hard drive failed.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any good sources?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Gary
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Touche' Gulfport Pensacola Race recap

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Looked like the typical Pensacola Race with the fan shutting off!! You
looked awesome to the Gulfport sea bouy. That beat must have been fun to
sail.

Ed Levert
Briar Patch
C 34
New Orleans

On Sunday, June 26, 2016, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> In short, it was slow and hot.  I also had crew cancellations.  We raced
> with the Admiral and 2 others.  In retrospect, sailing with 4 was
> advantageous due to the light winds.
>
> We were 1st in non-spinnaker, about 1 hour 9 minutes corrected over second
> place.
>
> We had really good upwind performance rounding the Gulfport sea buoy
> 17th.  Not bad since 13 of the boats started 10 minutes before us and 2
> that started with us rated faster.  One boat rated 3 seconds faster rounded
> about 3 seconds ahead of us.  We had a very close crossing with that boat
> earlier well down the course but north of Ship Island.  I think we just
> didn't sail the current around the island as well as they did.
>
> For any who tracked us during the race and watched a lot of boats sail
> past us after the sea buoy, we were sailing non-spinnaker.  The spin boats
> all popped chutes at the buoy and took off.  We hung with a lot of them
> well down the course.
>
> After the buoy, it was a nice reach for 40 miles to the Mobile sea buoy.
> The evening was warm but beautiful with a 2/3 moon rising a bit after
> 11pm.  It was hard to remember we were racing and not just out for a
> pleasant night sail.  After the Mobile sea buoy, we had to sail wing on
> wing for 40+ miles to the finish.  I hadn't brought the whisker pole so we
> poled out the genoa with the spin pole.  Since the spin pole is quite a bit
> shorter than the spin pole and the winds were so light, the genoa wouldn't
> hold any decent shape.  We furled the genoa a bit to improve the shape.
> Unusual technique but it helped.  The winds continued to lighten for the
> rest of the race.  We saw speed through water as low as 1.5 knots for much
> of the last 40 miles.  Fortunately there was a favorable current.
> Reviewing the tracking data, the lowest was 1.97 with several observations
> under 2.1 knots for the last 20 miles.  It was really HOT!
>
> We pretty much had our class tucked away prior after the 17 mile upwind
> portion but strange things can happen during the night.  We could easily
> see the closest non-pin boat to us because they had really bright running
> lights.  It also helped that they had AIS and left it on.  We were able to
> see if they gained any speed so we'd know they either had gotten fresh
> breeze or had decided to drop out and motor.  :)
>
> One last observation.  Once we passed the Mobile sea buoy 60 miles down
> course with 40 to go, we used a cell phone hot spot and a tablet to check
> the race fleet.  That was cool.  We could see the fleet and that we were
> well ahead in our class.  I like technology.
>
> Now back to cruising.  Next weekend, Fourth of July fireworks at Pensacola
> Beach!!
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

If able, measure the old line you cut off to get a rough idea of how much
line to buy. Total up the pieces. Then raise the sail with no new line
around the drum. Roll up the sail by hand again with no line attached to
the drum. Now attach the new line to the drum with the sail fully furled.
Add 2 rolls by hand. Now unfurl the sail as usual and this will wind the
new line on the drum. Cut the tail if necessary to the desired length.

Ed
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Saturday, June 11, 2016, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> My roller furling line got ultra-tangled in the drum and I ended up having
> to drop the headsail and cut it all out.
>
> I bought some new line and am going to install tomorrow, weather
> permitting.
>
> So here's the question. How many feet of line should I have wrapped around
> the drum before putting the sail back on?
>
> I'm running with a 135% headsail, but want to have enough on there to
> accommodate a 150, if I ever make a change.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com 
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
___

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Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

My C 30 Mk I, possibly hull 19, had its halyards exit at the base of the
mast through a turning block. The halyard then led horizontally to a winch
on the box structure molded into the cabin top. All halyard loads were not
transferred vertically to the deck. My 1981 C 34 has numerous halyards
exiting the base of the mast and led to blocks on the collar which was
bolted to the deck. Blocks then turned the halyard to wherever the winch
was located. Before the tangs were used, I heard of at least 1 local C 35
of unknown Mark having reports of the deck lifting. The halyard loads were
transferred vertically to the collar which in turn caused the deck to
deform flexing upwards. The tang were devised to anchor the collar to the
mast to eliminate the upward flexing of the deck.

Ed
CYC 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La.




On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 3:33 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting that apparently only some but not all C models have these
> mast collar tangs. Mine (C 30 MK I hull #7, designed 1971-sh built 1972)
> does not have them.  It has a bulkhead about a half-foot forward of the
> mast that is strongly tabbed to the cabin top, which is presumably the
> design element intended to prevent upward flexing of the cabin top.  I
> could see how tangs fastened to mast and collar could do the same thing,
> using the mast as a structural member.  I wonder when and under what
> circumstances C chose to use tangs vs. bulkheads.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"jhnelson via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"jhnelson" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, May 31, 2016 12:43:50 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2
>
> Cabin top flexes upward, doors won't close. Boat flexes more than it
> should.
> Generally I don't think anything catestrophic would happen...immediately
> anyway. But flexing the Cabin top is likely not great.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung device
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Wayne Anstey via CnC-List 
> Date: 2016-05-31 3:25 PM (GMT-04:00)
> To: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> Cc: Wayne Anstey 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2
>
> What happens if you don't put them on at all and only put the wedges in?
>
> Wayne Anstey
> Resilience
> 1964 C 30mk1
> Bedford, N S, Canada
>
> Sent from my Bell Sony device over Canada’s largest network.
>
>  Bruce Pope via CnC-List wrote 
>
> > Hi Doug.
> >
> >
> > I had the same problem on my 29-2.  Installed the mast for the first
> time after transport,  tuned the rigging, everything set up and then...
> found the tangs in a galley drawer where I had stored them for transport.
> I had to slacken all rigging before I could get the holes to align.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: CnC-List  on behalf of
> Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 4:17 AM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Persuasion37
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2
> >
> > Hi Doug.
> >
> >
> > On my 37 I cannot install the bolts if I tune the mast first.  I've done
> this a couple of times now and the only thing to do is loosen everything,
> install the bolts and re-tune.
> >
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > C 37
> >
> > Long Sault
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >
> > On May 30, 2016, at 8:05 PM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > When I was rigging my new to me 33-2 we couldn't locate one of the the
> mast collar tangs so I had a friend fabricate a duplicate. Both are now
> misaligned and the holes are about 1/4 inch too high to slip the bolt in
> (the boat is fully rigged). My friends have different opinions on this.
> One says release the rigging and the tangs will slightly deform the cabin
> top when we reset the mast. Another days remake the tangs so the bolts line
> up with jokes in the mast when it's fully rigged. Looking for help from you
> folks.
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Doug
> >
> > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>

Re: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I recently replace the WC Headmate with the JABSCO. I was able to fit in
the larger bowl model too. One of the advertised features of the JABSCO
purportedly allows the pump handle to be rotated to prevent the backflow
from a worn joker valve. The other selling factor for me was the
installation of JABSCO heads on the Beneteaus chartered over the years in
the BVI. Those heads are used way more frequently that mine ever will be.
They must be the head of choice for a reason.

Ed
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans, La.

On Thu, Apr 21, 2016 at 12:08 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have had a C Headmate on my 29-1 and I had to rebuild the pump several
> times.  I  now have a Jabsco head on my LF38.  The quality and
> functionality is much better.
>
> The West Marine head actually looks like a rebranding of the Jabsco head.
>   WM lists the Jabsco head for $209.  If you decide to go with a new head,
> I suggest that you pay the extra $10 and go with the Jabsco unit.  Take a
> closer look at both heads and you will see one with a grey pump handle and
> the other with a black pump handle.   The grey one is the older version of
> the Jabsco pump.  It’s likely an out dated photo, but make sure you get one
> with the black pump handle, it’s the newer new Jabsco twist-n-lock pump.
> A big advantage is that Jabsco parts are easier to obtain (and in my
> opinion better quality) such that rather than rebuilding the pump (a
> rebuild kit ~$50) it is just easier to replace the whole pump ($70) which
> comes with a new joker and takes a few minutes to install.
>
>
> I have a short write up about the Jabsco head pumps on my blog:
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/HeadPlumbingWork
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 1:55 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:50:16 -0700
> From: Sam Wheeler 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Considering Head Replacement on 35 mk III
> Message-ID:
> 

Re: Stus-List Where is my Oberdorfer pump leaking from?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Ryan:

Doug's explanation is likely correct. The seal on the pump side leaked so
long that the motor mount of the cast iron oil pan beneath the pump was
rusting out to the point where I considered its failure likely. I have the
block to prove it. And it is free to anyone who wants to pick it up!!

Ed
Briar Patch, C 34
New Orleans, La.

On Wed, Apr 13, 2016 at 11:23 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey listers,
>
> I have been getting a tiny bit of coolant in the bilge for a while now and
> I finally found it's source.  The Oberdorfer water pump on the back of my
> A4 is leaking very slowly, but I can't see exactly where.
>
> I don't think it's any of the hose connections - although I may replace
> the hoses now that I've looked closely at them.  I wonder if it's the
> gasket that joins the pump to the motor, but I just can't see the leak
> source.
>
> Any thoughts?  I figured I'd ask here before I drain the motor of coolant
> and remove this thing.
>
>
>
> See photos at links below:
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGN2NPU0J1b2wyOVpzVV9JSnF4X2VlRmU2R2ZF/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGOUc4Q0o2Q044WGl4WEQxSkhfRFprblUxc2Rz/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGYm13Mnotd2p1X05xNjdiN2xGaFBmb3VNaXlZ/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGdC03SGJDTG93MnR5a1ltNnFqVlVOcXZicTFz/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
> Ryan
> Nobody's Bargain
> 1976 C 30mki
> New York
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Randy:

We were delivering the boat back to New Orleans after purchase. I knew of
the potential flaw but the surveyor was not able to see the support
structure. Had boat itch to replace my C 27 lost in Katrina. I took a
chance.

Close hauled with main and a 110 in 15 kts wind, 30 minutes into the sail I
sensed something slipped. Under sail, the pressure on the windward shrouds
seemed normal. Sent my son below to check and the report was not good. The
mast step collapsed. We killed the sails and headed up Mobile Bay under
power. The rig was now loosely goosey as we rolled in the following sea. We
tried to stabilize it by squeezing the shrouds together with line. A
worrisome 4 hr motor up the bay to the marina complex at Dog River not
knowing how or if the butt of the mast was working against the hull. The
wood plate under the step fractured as  well as some of the transverse
members.

If you do the repairs yourself, be sure to use pvc pipe to leave access to
the forward keel bolt if you fill in the gaps between the stringers.

Ed
Briar Patch, C 34
New Orleans, La



On Monday, April 11, 2016, <randy.staff...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Thanks Ed.  The story at
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm is
> informative.  Someone who owned the boat before me had already cut a
> rectangular hole in the cabin sole next to forward port dinette bench, and
> fashioned a thick wood block to fill the hole and span the two cross
> supports.  They just didn't go so far as to rebuild the cross supports.
> The above story looks like a reasonable way to do it.
>
> So when your step failed, what happened?  Did those timbers, and the floor
> pan, just break, causing your mast to drop 6-9"?
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> ----------
> *From: *"Edward Levert via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>>
> *To: *"cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>>
> *Cc: *"Edward Levert" <weeselev...@gmail.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','weeselev...@gmail.com');>>
> *Sent: *Monday, April 11, 2016 1:57:05 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step
>
> Randy:
>
> Check the "Do it yourself" section of the Photo Album for a description
> and a photograph of the repair. My C 30 Mk 1, Hull 19(?) had the step
> fail on the 1st sail. I was in Mobile Bay at the time of failure and had
> the step rebuilt by a professional who was the Boatwright for the US
> Olympic teams in China and England. The rebuilt the step is similar to the
> description in the Photo Album, differing by filling in the gaps between
> the cross supports with epoxy/filler. Total cost in 2006 was about $1200
> plus the cost of mast unstopping/ stepping. The repair required cutting out
> part of the cabin floor pan to allow access to glass in the new supports.
>
> Ed
> Briar Patch, C 34
> New Orleans, La.
>
> On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:13 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>> wrote:
>
>> Listers-
>>
>> Since the mast is down on my early (hull #7) 30-1, I removed the mast
>> step to inspect beneath.  The aluminum step is screwed onto a heavily
>> sealed wood block ~12"x6"x2", which is in turn screwed onto two short
>> timbers running athwartship which I'm sure are intended to take the load of
>> the mast and transfer it to the hull.  Those two timbers have been wet and
>> appear to be a rot risk.  The PO fitted a heavily sealed wood wedge down
>> into that lowest part of the bilge between the floor timbers, to further
>> support the block under the mast step.
>>
>> My concern is that the wedge will transfer load from the mast onto the
>> top of the keel instead of to the hull via the floor timbers, and thereby
>> contribute to separation of the lead ballast part of the keel from the
>> fiberglass keel stub i.e. the "C smile".  Do you think this is a
>> legitimate concern?  Any thoughts on how to otherwise reinforce the floor
>> timbers or distribute the mast load to the hull?
>>
>> Also that wedge was sitting in bilge water because the automatic bilge
>> pump float switch is a bit aft and a bit higher.  Both the automatic and
>> manual bilge pump intake tubes are down there in that lowest part of the
>> bilge, but the manual pump must be more effective at removing that water
>> because of the float switch location.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any comments.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30-1 #7
>

Re: Stus-List Timbers Beneath Mast Step

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Randy:

Check the "Do it yourself" section of the Photo Album for a description and
a photograph of the repair. My C 30 Mk 1, Hull 19(?) had the step fail on
the 1st sail. I was in Mobile Bay at the time of failure and had the step
rebuilt by a professional who was the Boatwright for the US Olympic teams
in China and England. The rebuilt the step is similar to the description in
the Photo Album, differing by filling in the gaps between the cross
supports with epoxy/filler. Total cost in 2006 was about $1200 plus the
cost of mast unstopping/ stepping. The repair required cutting out part of
the cabin floor pan to allow access to glass in the new supports.

Ed
Briar Patch, C 34
New Orleans, La.

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:13 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers-
>
> Since the mast is down on my early (hull #7) 30-1, I removed the mast step
> to inspect beneath.  The aluminum step is screwed onto a heavily sealed
> wood block ~12"x6"x2", which is in turn screwed onto two short timbers
> running athwartship which I'm sure are intended to take the load of the
> mast and transfer it to the hull.  Those two timbers have been wet and
> appear to be a rot risk.  The PO fitted a heavily sealed wood wedge down
> into that lowest part of the bilge between the floor timbers, to further
> support the block under the mast step.
>
> My concern is that the wedge will transfer load from the mast onto the top
> of the keel instead of to the hull via the floor timbers, and thereby
> contribute to separation of the lead ballast part of the keel from the
> fiberglass keel stub i.e. the "C smile".  Do you think this is a
> legitimate concern?  Any thoughts on how to otherwise reinforce the floor
> timbers or distribute the mast load to the hull?
>
> Also that wedge was sitting in bilge water because the automatic bilge
> pump float switch is a bit aft and a bit higher.  Both the automatic and
> manual bilge pump intake tubes are down there in that lowest part of the
> bilge, but the manual pump must be more effective at removing that water
> because of the float switch location.
>
> Thanks in advance for any comments.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Bruce:

I recently replaced the original head on my 1981 C 34. The original
"bolts" were not bolts at all but were what I think are called hanger bolts
- part screw and part bolt. The screw part was into the pan on which the
head sits. The head was held down by cap nuts. Remove the head and back out
the hanger bolts. I carefully measured for the base of the new head,
drilled, and used SS lag bolts. The new head mounts firmly.

I did run into a placement problem. A wall of the head compartment was
angled thus reducing the space directly behind the head. I had the new head
bolted down and plumbed. When I put the toilet seat on, the angled wall
prevented the seat from lifting/opening fully. Solved the problem by
reversing the side of the pump relative to the bowl but had to re-drill for
the lag bolts. Good luck.

Ed
Briar Patch C 34
New Orleans, La.

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:50 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello.
>
>
> I pulled the existing Brydon head from my 29-2 and am installing a new
> Jabsco.The existing bolts appear to be bedded into the fiberglass pan
> that the head sits on and of course the bolt pattern for the new head does
> not match these.  There is no access to the underside of the pan.
> Any ideas I've come up with for creating new mounts depend on knowing the
> thickness of the pan.
>
> Any 29-2 owners know how thick the glass is on the pan - is it solid?
>
> Any 29-2 owners encounter this issue and have a solution?
>
> I could use stainless steel toggle anchor bolts that would work if the pan
> is hollow - thinking this would be easiest.
>
> I could cut the heads off of bolts and bed them inverted (with
> resin/adhesive) in new holes if the pan is solid.
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>
> '86 C 29 MK II
>
> Kootenay Lake, BC
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Running lines aft to cockpit on C 34

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Andrew:

I have a 1981 C 34. It appears that the layout for lines led to the
cockpit as I will describe was the set up from the factory when the boat
was built. There are 4 winches on the aft end of the cabin top, 2 on each
side of the companionway. I admit to having the original Schaeffer sheet
stoppers still in place. On the port side are two spinnaker halyards with
the outside winch dedicated to these halyards. The spinnaker pole topping
lift also is led to a stopper on the port side. I have led the main halyard
to the inside port winch and removed the small centerline winch aft of the
base of the mast. It snagged the soft vang. The starboard inside winch is
self tailing and dedicated to the main sheet. The outside starboard winch
is dedicated to the 2 jib halyards. Spinnaker pole downhaul is led to a
stopper on the starboard cabin top. In addition, there are 2 small winches
mounted mid boom for reefing, boom topping lift, and the main outhaul.
Someone must leave the cockpit to tend to the clew reefing line and tack
hook.

Ed L.
Briar Patch
C 34
New Orleans, La.



On Wed, Mar 23, 2016 at 10:11 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all - First time poster here, so let me know if I’m doing any of this
> incorrectly. Brief introduction: my name is Andrew Means, I own the S.V.
> Safari, a C 34 MKI moored on Lake Union in Seattle, WA, with three of my
> friends. We sail the Safari—mostly casually—around the Puget Sound region.
> You can see a pic of the Safari here: http://imgur.com/OdrC0Bk
>
> Now to the questions: I'm in the process of reworking my running rigging
> and I'm curious to see how other C 34 owners run lines aft to the
> cockpit. Which lines do you run? How do you get them aft? Which do you
> consider the most important to have in the cockpit?
>
> I've been looking through pictures of C 34s online (mostly found in
> for-sale listings) and trying to get a handle on the best way to run our
> main sheet, vang (to be installed), reefing lines, topping lift, outhaul,
> etc.. I think I have resigned myself to the fact that with our boom
> (original to the boat) we probably aren't going to be able to have the
> reefing lines run aft to the cockpit because they run externally on the
> port side of the boom and a swinging boom would tigthen/loosen them if they
> were run back to a turning block on the mast.
>
> *Priorities:*
> We are generally casual cruisers, often with inexperienced crew. Safety
> while reefing is a big priority, but as noted above I don't see how we can
> run the lines back to the cockpit without a completely new boom with
> internal reefing lines. Prove me wrong?
>
> Here's the state of the union:
>
> *Boom, Port Side - *http://i.imgur.com/yTDeEWR.jpg
> The 1st and 2nd reefing lines terminate on the boom. Topping lift is
> currently cleated mid-boom, which is super annoying. It would be nice to
> have the topping lift  run aft. I’ve been told that the cam cleats are not
> suitable for cleating reefing lines (and I agree, as they’ve slipped out
> before).
>
> *Boom, Starboard Side* - http://i.imgur.com/ixYRPwy.jpg
> Outhaul, flattening reef.
>
> *Mast Base, Port Side* - http://i.imgur.com/7kozeHd.jpg
> Deck organizer currently has main halyard (red fleck) and main sheet (blue
> fleck). Main halyard enters the mast just below the gooseneck.
>
> *Mast Base, Starboard Side* - http://i.imgur.com/XTkuphN.jpg
> Our Jib Halyard is going to be replaced and we're going to get a haylard
> bag on the mast. We'll also likely remove some of this deck hardware (that
> aft winch will be moved to the starboard side of the companionway to handle
> other lines.)
>
> *Cabintop cleats & winch (port)* - http://i.imgur.com/DHavs7p.jpg
> I'm replacing these abominations with a proper triple rope clutch, forward
> of the winch.
>
> Well, what do you folks think? For cruising around Puget Sound, San Juans,
> etc. and a little bit of beer can racing, how would you set this up? Pics
> of your own setup would be hugely appreciated, especially if you've got a
> C 34 or something of similar vintage!
>
> Thanks in advance for the advice, looking forward to knowing other C
> owners!
>
> Andrew
>
> --
> Andrew Means
>
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I installed a Selden Furlex unit on my C 27 Mk I with no prior
experience. The package back then included a new head stay which was metric
in both the cable and pin size. Mast stayed up during the install. I had an
engineer friend check my measurements before I cut anything.

After Katrina, my sons and I installed a Schaffer 1000 on my replacement
C 30 Mk I. Mast was left standing. Different assembly from the Furlex,
but no problem with either brand. Follow the instructions and measure
carefully before cutting.


Ed
Briar Patch
C 34 1981
New Orleans

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Michael Cotton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Defender had Pro Furl for $850.
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 7:40 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>
> If you are reasonably handy then you can install it.  Best to drop the
> mast, but it can be done mast up if you can keep the forestay.  And keeping
> the forestay will depend on what furler you go with, I've got a Harken
> cruising unit #1, had to change the forestay when I installed it.
>
> I'd go with a new sail, but then it is really easy to recommend to someone
> else that they spend their money...
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-01-05 10:24 PM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have mostly light winds here in Beaufort SC.
> So out to 150% or at least a 135% would be best.
> But, Can I install it? do I keep my forstay?
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:11 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> Congrats!
> My 2 cents:
>
> 15 - 25 year old sails are shot.  I don't know what your wind conditions
> are like, but I would buy a Harken furler and a good Dacron sail that
> covers most of your wind conditions.Partially furled sails are not
> great upwind, but are fine for cruising.
> It will cost several hundred dollars each to convert the old sails.  You
> might be better off picking up a used #3 and converting the #1 or vice
> versa depending on condition.
> You can stay within your budget if you shop around.
> If you are happy with the sock, keep it.
>
> Joel.
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Curtis via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
> I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler
> system for my C  1981 1/4 ss wire
> Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no Idea how to proceed. I have a
> 115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails. I have a asymmetrical in a sock as
> well.
> My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 5 grand.
> I'm looking for advise on the complete package.
> 1) can I install it?
> 2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing?
> 3) my sails are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy new?
> 3) Asy furler?
> Thanks for your help
>
>
> Capt,Curtis McDaniel
>
> Dataw island Marina
> 843-838-8410 Office
> * http://www.datawmarina.com/
> *
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
>
>
> --
> *Best regards,*
>
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>
> *C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>
> *
> cpt.b...@gmail.com
> *
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Mike,

Welcome to the list. You will love the C 34 better under sail.

The hot water heater on my 34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker
to the right of the engine just as you suggest. I am guessing it was
original equipment. Cannot begin to help on how to plumb to the head/shower.

Ed
Briarpatch C 34 1981
New Orleans, La.

On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, Headgorilla via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mike here...
>
> Just bought a 1978 34' C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous owner
> was a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat.
>
> you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up
> from a 22' OdayMH..
>
> I have been following the discussions that you guys are having and it is
> all very, very educationaland since I bought the boat on the day it was
> hauled for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I haven't been able to
> mess around with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI since you guys
> have been discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and everything leads
> back to the 8 around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on cockpit combing),
> the two by the mast are set for the babystay track and one for the
> spinnaker halyard
>
> My question..the Admiral needs hot water for her shower..looks as
> if the best and only place for it is on the starboard side of the engine
> (atomic4 rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access to the fresh water cooling
> system.gonna be some piping to do since the water tank and pump are
> under the port side cabin bunk and the head is on the starboard...
>
> Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
> 1978 34' Skywalker
> Southold, NY
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Boat tools

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Ice - unseaworthy without it!

Ed L.
Briar Patch C 34
New Orleans


On Tue, Dec 8, 2015 at 4:34 PM, jtsails via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Can’t believe no one has listed this!
> Duct Tape
>
> James
> Delaney
> 1976 C 38
> Oriental, NC
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 08, 2015 5:20 PM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boat tools
>
>
> 10 in 1 screw driver.  Does large and small hose clamps and large and
> small philips and flat.
>
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002RI5EY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449613051=8-1=SX200_QL40=klein+tools+10+in+1=1=31M7C8mWD6L=plSrch
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Dec 8, 2015 2:54 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Time for a discussion on our favorite boat tools  Aside from the
>> usual collection of wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers and locking pliers, what
>> do you find indispensable for boat work?
>>
>> Dave said:  "For cutting consider an oscillating tool like a Fein, with
>> a circular bimetal blade.   (where has this thing been all my life???)
>> This is the boat repair guy's friend, second only to the angle grinder"
>>
>> Yep, a vibrating saw is a valuable tool.  I have the Dremel MultiMax
>> corded (the cordless ones don't have the oomph to get the job done).  Can't
>> beat it for making plunge cuts and flush cuts.  Also use it with a flexible
>> caulk removal blade for removing ports, hardware, etc. that is sealed with
>> silicone, polyurethane, polysulfide, etc.
>>
>> However, my favorite all around go to tool is this:  <
>> http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85035-35-MicroDriver-Set/dp/B0062FSAVI>
>>
>> For hose clamps, it's a 5/16" nut driver.  Can't imagine why anyone uses
>> a screwdriver on a hose clamp if they have a nut driver.
>>
>> The other tool I use a lot is a 1/4 inch shank cone grinding stone for
>> making the chamfer on deck penetrations.
>>
>> Every boat should have a cheap digital multi-meter on board.
>>
>> The other electrical "thingie" for cruisers is a polarity tester.  Yeah,
>> your breaker panel has a little reverse polarity light but what if it's
>> burned out?  Get one of these:
>>
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1449604186=8-1=polarity+tester
>>
>> What's your "must have" tool?
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>> --
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>
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Re: Stus-List Starter

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Start first at the switch. Test for power across the terminals with the
button pushed. If no voltage is seen on the 1st push, it is likely the
contacts within the switch are dirty. You can sometimes temporarily clean
the contacts by multiple pushes of the starter button with the ignition key
off. If you have voltage across the button, then check for voltage between
the button and the solenoid. Clean the terminals on the wires, button, and
solenoid. That you can start on the 2nd button push suggest that the
solenoid and fuses are OK.

Ed
CC 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Tue, Jul 28, 2015 at 10:04 AM, jhnelson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Do you have power at the panel...if warning lights/buzzer? If not then
 could be fuse on back of motor that gives power. Otherwise, possible ground
 at the transmission to engine
 bolt.  Those are two simple but we'll hidden things to check.



 Sent from my Samsung device


  Original message 
 From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: 07-28-2015 11:51 (GMT-04:00)
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
 Subject: Stus-List Starter

 I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for
 my Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine
 starts right up.

 What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start
 up at the push button switch or at the solenoid?

 Thanks in advance,

 Mike
 Atacama, 33 mkii
 Toronto
 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
 Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Stus-List Lift mufflers

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

 In the removal of the mixing elbow on a Yanmar 3gm 30F to clear a complete
 blockage, inspection of the lift muffler dictates its replacement. Any
 brand recommendations and dealers? Exhaust hose is 1 5/8ths. The Vernalift
 muffler for that size hose is specked for 10 hp diesel.


  Ed

 Briar Patch
CC 34 # 336
New Orleans, la




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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

In 2006 when I was delivering from Carrabelle, Fl to New Orleans my new to
me 1971 CC 30, the mast step collapsed while under sail on Mobile Bay. The
three plywood stringers supporting the wood plate on which the metal mast
step rested failed. The step was rebuilt by Donnie Brennan in Mobile.
Donnie has been the Boatwright for the US Olympic teams in China and
England. I was not present during the re-build but Donnie described his
method as follows. Using the remains of the stringers as templates, new
stringers were cut from fiberglass laminate. He had to cut a section of the
floor pan (my estimate is 3-4 inches wide) to allow him access to the turn
of the hull in the bilge in order to be able to prepare the hull for
glassing in the new stringers. With the new stringers glassed, he filled in
the spaces between them with epoxy and filler, using a section of PVC pipe
to leave access to the forward keel bolt through the epoxy fill.

There is a similar description in the photo album under Do it Yourself,
rebuilding a mast step on a 30Ft MK I

Good Luck

Ed
Briar Patch
CC 34
New Orleans

On Wed, May 20, 2015 at 11:12 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I'll soon have the mast out of my 1980 30-1 (for relocating her by truck)
 and want to
 forestall future mast step issues by redoing/strengthening
 it now. The mast was last out 8 years ago. I've never pulled the oak mast
 step base plate, so don't know what to anticipate underneath. Advice
 welcome, pictures very welcome.

 I'm imagining figuring out the necessary drainage and keel bolt access,
 then using epoxy-saturated oak board or McMaster Carr fiberglass sheets to
 built a new support step, and maybe filling in what I hear is a large empty
 area with micro-balloon slurry?

 She's  an all-freshwater boat which sits in a cradle 7 months a year,
 which may be why its lasted this long with no signs of trouble yet.

 Nate Flesness
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1

 Siskiwit Bay Marina
 Lake Superior

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Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

SEE ABOVE

ED

On Wed, May 20, 2015 at 11:39 AM, Edward Levert weeselev...@gmail.com
wrote:

 In 2006 when I was delivering from Carrabelle, Fl to New Orleans my new to
 me 1971 CC 30, the mast step collapsed while under sail on Mobile Bay. The
 three plywood stringers supporting the wood plate on which the metal mast
 step rested failed. The step was rebuilt by Donnie Brennan in Mobile.
 Donnie has been the Boatwright for the US Olympic teams in China and
 England. I was not present during the re-build but Donnie described his
 method as follows. Using the remains of the stringers as templates, new
 stringers were cut from fiberglass laminate. He had to cut a section of the
 floor pan (my estimate is 3-4 inches wide) to allow him access to the turn
 of the hull in the bilge in order to be able to prepare the hull for
 glassing in the new stringers. With the new stringers glassed, he filled in
 the spaces between them with epoxy and filler, using a section of PVC pipe
 to leave access to the forward keel bolt through the epoxy fill.

 There is a similar description in the photo album under Do it Yourself,
 rebuilding a mast step on a 30Ft MK I

 Good Luck

 Ed
 Briar Patch
 CC 34
 New Orleans

 On Wed, May 20, 2015 at 11:12 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I'll soon have the mast out of my 1980 30-1 (for relocating her by truck)
 and want to
 forestall future mast step issues by redoing/strengthening
 it now. The mast was last out 8 years ago. I've never pulled the oak mast
 step base plate, so don't know what to anticipate underneath. Advice
 welcome, pictures very welcome.

 I'm imagining figuring out the necessary drainage and keel bolt access,
 then using epoxy-saturated oak board or McMaster Carr fiberglass sheets to
 built a new support step, and maybe filling in what I hear is a large empty
 area with micro-balloon slurry?

 She's  an all-freshwater boat which sits in a cradle 7 months a year,
 which may be why its lasted this long with no signs of trouble yet.

 Nate Flesness
 Sarah Jean
 1980 30-1

 Siskiwit Bay Marina
 Lake Superior

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Re: Stus-List Bad day on Mobile Bay

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Mobile Bay is synonymous with squalls. Had many more crossings of the bay
with them than without them. It is open and shallow water which translates
to instant chop. We pray for the lost.

Ed
CC 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Sunday, April 26, 2015, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Dennis, I agree about Mobile Bay, I have done the Dauphin Island race and
 boats get strung out all up and down the Bay, leaving them sitting ducks
 for a squall line like that; my sympathies to all who were injured and the
 one sailor lost.

  Richard
 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596;
  Richard N. Bush
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
 502-584-7255


 -Original Message-
 From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');
 To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');
 Sent: Sun, Apr 26, 2015 5:10 pm
 Subject: Stus-List Bad day on Mobile Bay

  The annual Dauphin Island race on Mobile Bay yesterday turned tragic as
 a severe storm ravaged the race.  My thoughts are with the families of
 those who suffered losses.

 
 http://www.al.com/news/mobile/index.ssf/2015/04/dauphin_island_regatta_coast_g.html#incart_story_package


 
 http://www.al.com/news/mobile/index.ssf/2015/04/dauphin_island_regatta_sailors.html#incart_gallery


 
 http://www.al.com/news/mobile/index.ssf/2015/04/it_was_what_i_would_imagine_be.html#incart_river


  Earlier, this system passed through Mandeville, LA as my yacht club,
 Pontchartrain Yacht Club, was having its opening ceremony.  It was fierce.
 Quarter sized hail made the club pool look like a war zone.  Branches came
 down.  The pool was filled with leaves and small branches.  A couple blocks
 away, trees and power lines were knocked down.  It was reminiscent of
 Hurricane Katrina. It happened just as our club was finishing setting up
 the buffet under the elevated club building.  The wind blew hail and rain
 into the buffet.  We scrambled to relocate the food out of the onslaught.

  I can imagine what it was like on Mobile Bay.  It's not one of my
 favorite bodies of water.  I've crossed Mobile Bay in all kinds of weather
 from hot and calm to 50+ knot squalls.  I've been offshore in that area in
 squall conditions.  The squalls don't last long but they can be terrifying
 when you're in one.

  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Fuel tank access port

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Moellermarine manufactures plastic tanks. $200+\- at Amazon and do away
with

On Friday, January 23, 2015, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hello All,

 I have an '89 30 MKII.  It has what I believe to be the original fuel
 tank. The tank has two access ports. They look like they may have been
 added, but could be original, not sure.

 Both ports are held closed with machine screws. The aft port does not leak
 and I have yet to remove it.

 The forward access port weeps fuel.  I removed the cover and found that it
 appears to have been sealed with a black substance I'm guessing is permatex.

 I'm going to empty the tank and try to clean it without opening the aft
 port (as it does not leak).

 The fuel looks OK and I don't see anything real nasty but there is some
 black gunk at the bottom. So I'm gonna change it all and clean the tank by
 hand.

 Question is: how and what should I use to re-seal the access port?

 Any hints would be greatly appreciated

 Rob Gallagher
 HANUMAN


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Re: Stus-List Quality Construction

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

My personal displeasure with Beneteaus begins with my personal beam.
Chartered a 32 and had tight squeezes into the aft cabin and head. Same
into the forward head on a chartered 43. No problem with my current CC 34.

But as much as we love the CC brand, they are/were subject to cost
generated construction shortcuts. Evidence the CC 30 mast step failures.
Would $100 more in construction material have eliminated the failure
problem? Similarly, my CC 27 Mk I had only the balsa sandwich core in the
deck below the mast step and between the compression post. There were
factory penetrations into the deck/balsa to secure the mast step. Solid
glass under the mast would have eliminated the possibility of core rot in
that critical location.

Ed
CC 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La.

On Wed, Dec 10, 2014 at 10:36 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Ok, so I'm biased but at the risk of stating the obvious..  How about
a 34+, 34/36, 37+, 37/40 ?

French boats like large aft Stateroom / Lounge on the U settee in the
salon - Large port lights / CC Quality

As another bonus they smoke the compartively sized French boats on the
racecourse pretty much regardless of the vintage. .


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
lake Lanier GA


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Re: Stus-List Custom CC Race boats (was - boat terms)

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

In the mid 1970's TRUE NORTH came south to Lake Pontchartrain. She was a
custom CC 37 designed and built to defend the Canada's Cup. Flush deck
with ant hills, sockets moulded into the deck to accept winch handles.
The ant hills were cross linked so that the leeward winch could be ground
from the windward side. She was brought to the lake by Gene Walet, a former
Olympic sailor and then the local CC dealer to provide competition to
Corrie, CC 39 hull # 2 or 3 and Touché. Gene added rather crude extensions
to the aft curvature of the hull extending past the reverse transom for
some undiscernabe rating or performance benefit. A recent Google search
pulled up a report of TN having done well in the Trans Superior race a few
years ago. It would be nice to hear about her current status. Gene replaced
TN with White Pony, one of the early CC 38's, which was never competitive
with the CC 39.

Ed
CC 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Monday, November 10, 2014, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 While we’re on the subject of custom CC race boats does anyone know
 anything about this one?

 It looks like a 38 MK I or II hull with a mostly flush deck and racing
 cabin layout.

 At first I thought it might be the One Tonner but the deck layout in the
 pictures is quite different than in the magazine ad that I have a scan of.

 http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1975/C%26C-38-2744779/Canada#.VGEhiclMpD4





 Rick Taillieu

 Nemesis

 '75 CC 25  #371

 Shearwater Yacht Club

 Halifax, NS.







 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com');] *On
 Behalf Of *Burt Stratton via CnC-List
 *Sent:* November-10-14 15:12
 *To:* 'Martin DeYoung'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');; 'jtsails'
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List boat terms



 Somehow I knew this was an easy one for all you listers. Thanks so much.
 My next stop is IOR ton rating. Had no clue…



 I wonder now how many and for how long CC made these custom class-racers.




 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com');] *On
 Behalf Of *Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Monday, November 10, 2014 1:55 PM
 *To:* jtsails; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List boat terms



 Burt,



 James’ answer leading you to search using “IOR ton rating is good advice.
 In short, the term “ton” was based on an IOR rating band that allowed IOR
 boats to race “one design”.  IIRC the popular “ton” classes were: ¼. ½, ¾,
 1, and 2. Sailing Anarchy has had several recent topics that cover IOR and
 “Ton” racing well.



 Calypso would have rated as a 2 tonner. A J-24 sized boat would be close
 to a ¼ tonner.  Today there is a resurgence of ton class racing with ¼ and
 ½ ton regattas being well attended.  Boats that had been neglected for
 years are being resurrected, modernized and raced hard.



 Back in the heyday of IOR racing I had the opportunities to race
 extensively on ¾, 1, and 2 ton class boats.  The racing was tight and fun.
 We used bloopers.  In the PNW town of Bellingham a regatta called PITCH
 (Pacific International Ton Championship) was started in the early 80’s.
 The racing was as intense as the partying. Protest meeting often went past
 dinner time.



 Martin

 Calypso

 1971 CC 43

 Seattle

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar push button died

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I have found for years that the contact in the push button switch can
become, for lack of technical terms, corroded and will not pass current on
the first push. That push and subsequent ones cleans the contact enough for
current to pass to the solenoid starting the engine. The symptoms appear
after the switch has not been used for a length of time or the switch is
old. Start testing the switch first before you work to the solenoid.
Switches are relatively inexpensive.

Ed
CC 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 1:55 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Jonathan:

 I had a similar problem which turned out to be the starter solenoid.  They
 are sealed units--so, no repair is possible.  I replaced the starter and
 solenoid before I realized that I had a spare solenoid on board in my
 spares kit.  If you want to buy it from me, let me know--they are no longer
 manufactured by Yanmar.

 Bob

 Bob Boyer
 S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
 email: dainyr...@icloud.com
 blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
 messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List tank cleaning

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

In January, I discovered the tank on the my CC 34 was leaking. With the
use of the Jabsco brass oil change pump with the pick up tube changed to a
larger diameter piece of tubing, I was able to pump out the contents of the
tank, approximately 12 gallons in perhaps 15 minutes, if not less. That was
the easiest part of the tank exchange. With a little effort, the tank came
out from under the cockpit. Replacement was a Moeller bought at Amazon.
Search the Moeller web site to identify the size closest to the tank you
are removing. If you are going to the effort to pull the old metal tank,
the cost of putting a new plastic one in does not justify trying to clean
the old one.

Ed
CC 34 Briar Patch
CC 30 Dream Girl now sold !!!
New Orleans, La..


On Thu, Aug 21, 2014 at 11:24 AM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Recently we shook up the tank in some rough weather and clogged the
 filters. The fuel was cleaned 4 years ago. Can I empty the tank and
 filter the fuel by hand? Can I take out the tank? Is it easy? Should I just
 get the people in to clean the fuel again. It is for a 29 mark 2.

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Re: Stus-List More animals on the bayou

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

And 20 miles away from Touche, we have a bull shark biting the heal of a 7
year old boy swimming in Lake Pontchartrain. Boy do we have nature at our
front door!

Ed
CC 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La.


On Thu, Aug 21, 2014 at 2:11 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Yesterday while I was out walking the dog a black bear crossed the road
 100ft in front of me.  I was in Alberta though :-)

 *Bill Hoyne*
 Mithrandir
 ’74 CC35 MkII
 in Victoria,BC

 On Aug 21, 2014, at 8:34 AM, Chris Price via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Usually it's the Osprey chasing the eagle, but last night while racing the
 Comet on the Susquehanna the Bald Eagle was chasing the Osprey. Always fun
 to watch.

 Chris Price
 Pradel
 35 Mk I


 --
 *From: *Joe via CnC-List Della Barba cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent: *Thursday, August 21, 2014 10:23:58 AM
 *Subject: *Re: Stus-List More animals on the bayou

 Our entertainment is the eagle vs. osprey fights.
 This is at the CRYC:

 http://www.dellabarba.com/flying/CRCY_EAGLE.mp4

 http://www.dellabarba.com/flying/cryc_eagle.wmv


 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina

 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis
 C. via CnC-List
 Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 9:58 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List More animals on the bayou

 Touché is docked on Bayou Castine across from a scenic natural area that
 is part of a state park. Was drinking coffee in the cockpit this morning
 when a deer came to drink water across the bayou.

 Yesterday a friend told me he saw a manatee in the bayou.

 I often see osprey, alligators, Mississippi kites, swallow tail kites and
 other fauna.  Occasionally I see a bald eagle.

 Really pleasant being in such a beautiful environment.

 Dennis C.
 Touché 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA


 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Helpful Tool for Changing Your Engine Belt

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Do not tighten your water pump belt on a Yanmar to drum tight. Yanmar
directs that you be able to deflect the belt a little bit. I ruined the
shaft and pulley using a similar tool over tightening the belt.

Ed
Briar Patch CC 34
New Orleans

On Monday, August 4, 2014, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Listers,

 I thought I’d pass along a recommendation for a great tool in getting
 perfect belt tension when installing a new belt on your CC engine. It’s
 called a Belt Tension Jack.

 I saw a write up on the SAIL Magazine website and was very skeptical, but
 the $22 gamble paid off big time! My wife and I used it yesterday and the
 whole job could not have gone easier.

 Here’s a link to the SAIL Mag write-up:
 http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/maintaining-tension

 Here’s a link to MSC Direct for the tool itself:
 http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/35438209?rItem=35438209


 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GM20 Starter Not Starting / Engaging

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Kevin:

The first thing to try is to clean the battery post and terminals with a
wire brush. Auto parts stores have an inexpensive brush that works on the
post and terminals. If there is no improvement, your push button switch may
be building up corrosion across the switch such that mere operation of the
switch the second or 3rd time cleans enough corrosion that contact is made.
Try, with the ignition switch off, pushing the button multiple times as
this may clean the switch. Depending on how the push button switch is made,
you may be able to open it up and clean the contacts. Disconnect and remove
the switch 1st.  If none of the above works, replace the push button switch.

Ed
Briar Patch CC 34
New Orleans, La.


On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 10:40 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi Everybody,



 My starter is beginning to misbehave a bit. Looking for help diagnosing
 issue.



 *Symptom: *Occasionally (with more frequency now) I will press the
 starter button on my Yanmar 2GM20 and nothing happens. No, turning over,
 etc. Just crickets. Then I take my finger off and try it again and it
 starts to turn over fine. Occasionally I have to press twice before it will
 start to engage.



 Any ideas? When this happened on my classic BMW motorcycle, it was my
 starter relay. Could it be the same on my Yanmar? Whatever it is it seems
 electrical rather than mechanical.



 Thanks!

 Kevin

 30-2


 Kevin Driscoll
 Portland,  Oregon
 503  //  875  //  3493

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