Re: Stus-List 1982 C 25

[Mark G via CnC-List]

I looked at a few C 25 Mk 2's before I bought my Mk 1.

Some of the early C 25 Mk 2's had an issue where that arch over the door in 
the cabin supports the mast step.  I believe there was a recall to reinforce 
the area and then at some point in the production run a design change.

With an extra long shaft outboard (25 inch) and a properly located bracket you 
won't have a problem with the prop coming out of the water.  I have a 6 hp 
Tohatsu 4-stroke extra long shaft.  You will have to raise and tilt the 
outboard to keep the prop from dragging when sailing, though.

Under the best of circumstances an outboard on a transom bracket is a PITA.  
The extra long shaft outboard is a bit heavier than long shaft models, so don't 
go with any larger of a power head than you need.  I basically only use my 
outboard to get home if the wind dies when I'm out sailing.  There can be a 
significant weight difference among different outboard brands for the same hp 
rating.  You might even consider trying to find a used 2-stroke, as they're 
considerably lighter.  Don't skimp on the bracket.  Get a heavy duty bracket 
with the spring assist or even the bracket with hydraulic assist.

Other than the outboard transom bracket, both the 25 Mk 1 and Mk2  are great 
boats.

Mark
'73 C 25 Mk 1




> From: Roger Slade 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 1982 C 25
> Message-ID: <478527662.8086346.1537359323...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi all,
> New to the group.? I am going to look at a fresh water C 25 built in 1982 a 
> second time and wondered about any ideas of what to look for that is specific 
> to this model.? I believe this boat has a cored deck and cored hull, so will 
> look for any respective issues with water intrusion, deformities, etc.? Boat 
> has been sitting for past 8 years (indoors) so assume it may be difficult to 
> identify and wet areas of decking, but will look for any cracking or 
> deformities around stanchions, fittings, mast step, etc.?
> Boat has a 15hp OMC saildrive which needs a rebuild (seized) , so thinking 
> strongly of removing that and filling in the hole and going with outboard.? 
> (engine is already out, but drive is stil in).? ?
> Interested in any other thoughts on potential problem areas to check out.
> Thanks!?

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Stus-List companionway bulkhead installation

[Mark G via CnC-List]

I plan to install a Ram swing mount to the inside of the bulkhead adjacent to 
the companionway on my C 25.  This will allow me to see my Garmin while I'm 
sailing but stow it out of the way when the hatch boards are in place.  Having 
removed and reinstalled an old instrument from the bulkhead, I know there is an 
uneven gap of about 3/4" between the cabin liner that forms the forward face of 
the bulkhead and the deck liner that forms the aft face of the bulkhead.  I 
want the base of the mount to be fairly secure so I'll probably secure it with 
screws through both the cabin and deck liner.  Should I just drill the holes 
for the screws overrsized and fill with thickened epoxy similar to installing 
deck hardware?  Can you do that with a vertical surface as opposed to a 
horizontal surface?  Any suggestions (or alternatives)?

Mark
C 25 Williwaw

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Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth

[Mark G via CnC-List]

I have the bottom of my 25 Mk1 down to bare gelcoat.  I figured now is a good 
time to replace all the thru hulls including the old knotmeter and depth 
transducer.  These have not been functional since I've owned the boat.  I've 
gotten by with an old hand-held Garmin GPSmap 76.  To be honest, I'm mainly 
just looking to plug the holes in the bottom.  I managed to replace the old 
analog knotmeter with a combination of new and rebuilt parts.  I'm now looking 
to replace the transducer.  At some point the prior owner had a GPS or 
fishfinder mounted in the companionway because the bracket is still there.  I'm 
looking to do something similar.  I want a mounted GPS, and I want to be able 
to plug in the transducer for an actual depth measurement (rather than an 
approximate measurement from the electronic chart).  And I'd like to do this 
for less than $500.  I'm not looking to find shipwrecks or the last fish in the 
ocean, and I don't care about water temperature or what is 1000 feet below me.  
I just want to be able to anchor, avoid running aground, etc.  At this point I 
think what I want is an obsolete Garmin GPSmap or Echomap 500 series, with an 
Airmar transducer.  There's not much info online that's geared towards day 
sailors.  Any advice or recommendations?
 
Most thru-hull transducers seem to be 2.125 inches in diameter.  The one I 
removed is 2.0.  It's difficult to open up a 2.0 hole to 2.125 with a hole saw. 
 Would you recommend grinding the hole larger with a Dremel?
 
The transducer I removed was mounted in a wood fairing block.  The deadrise 
angle seems to be about 10 degrees.  I see that some of these transducers are 
internally gimbled up to 20 degrees.  Is that the preferred approach for a 
sailboat considering the heeling angle on opposite tacks, etc.?  Or should I 
just make another wood fairing block?
 
Mark
C 25
Dartmouth, MA___

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Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[Mark G via CnC-List]

I didn't start sailing til my early 30's.  I started out in Tech dinghies, 
cat-rigged 12 footers.  Dinghies are a great way to learn.  Things happen fast 
in a dinghy.  And since you're the ballast, you really learn to balance the 
boat.  But they require a certain level of fitness and athleticism - 
particularly when you flip them and you have to right them in the water and 
climb back in.  I then moved to 14 foot FJ's, a little more performance 
oriented but basically more of the same.  Then to a J24, which is a completely 
different experience: you're in a cockpit, you have a foredeck, etc.  Honestly, 
if I hadn't graduated to the J24, I might have stopped sailing.  Little bit of 
time in an Etchells 22 around that time as well.  From there I knew I didn't 
want to race so I moved into more cruising-oriented lessons.  Boats were a 22 
foot Soling, then a Pearson 26, an Albin 28, a J29, a Pearson 31, a Pearson 303 
and a Cal 33.  So I've taken starter lessons in both a 12 footer and a 22 
footer.  For an adult, I think you're much better off starting in a 22 foot 
keelboat than a 12 foot dinghy.

My first and only boat has been the C 25 Mk1.  I initially looked at 
everything made in any kind of quantity between 21 feet and 28 feet.  I settled 
on the 24-26 foot size.  I wanted something you could overnight in, without the 
complexity of a diesel.  I continued to look hard at everything made in any 
kind of quantity in that size range.  I loved boat donation auctions - a chance 
to see a lot of boats at once without an owner or a broker breathing down your 
neck.  And the best way to identify a well-maintained boat is to see some poor 
ones.  After seeing my first C 25, I settled on that make / model.  Looked at 
a few examples, then bought one.  Inexpensive, good condition, my only regret 
being I didn't buy a boat with more upgrades.  I've since converted to jiffy 
reefing, put on a furler, a boom vang, a stern rail, an adjustable traveler, a 
backstay adjuster.  This stuff in total far exceeds what I paid for the boat.

If you sail in any kind of wind, a newbie sailor needs to know how to depower 
the boat and needs the gadgets on the boat that allow him to do so.  Newbie 
sailors tend to sail with friends and family who know nothing about sailing and 
won't be much help when things get exciting.  If the newbie sailor can't 
depower the boat from the cockpit with minimal assistance from "crew" (guests), 
they'll be terrorized and probably won't come back.

Mark 
C 25
Dartmouth, MA___

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Re: Stus-List considering a 1981 C 25 - now head privacy

[Mark G via CnC-List]

My 25 Mk1 has folding doors which separate the V-birth from the head, and a 
curtain to separate the head from the main cabin.  I replaced the curtain, 
slides and slider track.  The slides and slider track are RV (as in camper) 
items.  You can find them online at places that supply RV parts.  The buttons, 
including the bottom half which nails into the wood bulkheads, are available in 
craft stores.

Mark
C 25
Dartmouth, MA

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Re: Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Mark G via CnC-List]

The only issue I'm familiar with particular to the C 25 Mk2 is the support 
under the mast in the cabin.  While the Mk1 had a substantial beam running 
across the top of the bulkhead to support the mast, which every Mk1 owner has 
banged his head on a hundred times, the Mk2 did not.  I'm told that C 
actually "recalled" the early Mk2's to institute some kind of repair.  I looked 
at several Mk2's before buying my Mk1, and they all had something going on in 
this area.  I'd just pay attention to this area, and point it out to the 
surveyor.  The C 25, both Marks, is a great boat.  Take a look at a couple 
Hunters and Catalinas of the same size and vintage and the difference in build 
quality becomes apparent.  Then take a look at a few C 25s and you can see 
the difference in how they've been maintained.  It makes a difference over 40 
years.  And I'll give you some advice that I ignored: buy the boat that's been 
upgraded with things like a furler, self-tailing winches, etc.  These boats
  are inexpensive now, sub $5k.  But a furler is still $1500 and a pair of ST 
winches still $1200.

Mark
C 25
Dartmouth, MA

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Re: Stus-List Traveler

[Mark G via CnC-List]

I "upgraded" the traveler on my '73 C 25 Mk1 a few years back.  The car 
didn't move freely, and neither did the pin stops.  I agree, you need the 
ability to quickly drop the traveler.

The C 25 Mk 1 has a curved track mounted on top of the transom, at an angle 
so the tension on the car is perpendicular to the track (end of boom sheeting). 
 Even though I salvaged a track from another boat to use as a pattern for a 
custom replacement track, replacing the track wasn't really an option.  Access 
to the back side of the mounting bolts is nonexistent.  (Adding a stern rail to 
my boat was bad enough.)  

I believe the track and car on my boat are Fico.  I was able to find a used car 
on Ebay, not great, but better than what I had.  I added small blocks to the 
top of the car, and clam cleats at the sides of the cockpit.  It was a 
significant improvement and cost me less than $50.  And it doesn't preclude me 
from upgrading to something modern in the future.

I'm curious if anyone else with a C 25 Mk 1 has upgraded their traveler?

Mark
Dartmouth, MA




On 1 May 2017 at 19:10, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
> wrote:

My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not turn 
easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or parts to 
repair the existing system?

Cheers, J-G



Sent from my iPadOn Jul 11, 2017, at 10:11, Sean Richardson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Sylvain,

?

I?m looking to upgrade the original pin stop traveler on my27 mkIII. How well 
did the Lewmar fit down in the original track recess anddoes it clear the 
cockpit lockers on either side no problem? Would you happen tohave any pictures?

?

?

Sean

C 27 MKIII

LYNX
___

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Re: Stus-List C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild

[Mark G via CnC-List]

I've mentioned this place before on the list:

http://www.mcssl.com/store/store.massmarineparts-temp.com/catalog/search?keyword=c+%26+c

Looks like they've salvaged two newer 35's but not a Mk1.





Subject: Stus-List C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild

Hi all

I am looking for a replacement rudder for my Mk1.

The boat is on it's 2nd rudder. What I have is just a straight spaderudder (I 
am not sure of it's origin ).

A 100% new build from south shore yachts (or other) is possible but I'mlooking 
for more wallet friendly options.

At this point I am looking at sling time to remove what I have, thenshipping it 
off for a rebuild then more sling time to reinstall.

Are there any sources out there for salvaged parts? Or boats in barnsbeing 
parted out? Even a dead rudder with a good frame for a reasonableprice would 
save me some money and the headache of two trips to the yard.

I am in Toronto, Canada. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Derek DeVries

___

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Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[Mark G via CnC-List]

Rick,
 
I don't have a boat to sell you and I don't know of any for sale in that area!  
But I do want to thank you for all the information and advice you've provided 
to us 25 owners over the years.  Many of us are newbie sailors and a 25 is our 
first boat.  Your responses to our many questions have saved us a lot of time, 
money and frustration.  You and Rick Brass are undoubtedly the 25 experts on 
the list!  Glad to hear you'll be hanging around online.  And congratulations 
on your retirement!
 
Mark
C 25 Mk 1 WILLIIWAW
Dartmouth, MA


Message: 4Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2016 22:19:21 -0300From: Rick Taillieu 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List The boat is 
soldMessage-ID: <003601d1f5c9$e35560b0$aa002210$@ca>Content-Type: text/plain; 
charset="us-ascii"Just a quick note to say the new owners of Nemesis have 
picked her up andmoved her up Halifax harbour to Dartmouth Yacht Club.She has 
gone to a good home and the new owners are going to join the list.Why did I 
sell her?  I am retiring in October after 36+ years in the RCAFand this is the 
first step in my retirement plans.Next is to sell the house and move back home 
to southwestern Ontario.After we get settled in there, we plan on getting 
another boat in the 33-38ft range and cruise the great lakes.I've owned a boat 
since 1998 and it is weird not having to worry aboutstorms, hurricanes and 
taking time off for lift-out.I'm going to stay on the list and if any 25 owners 
have any questions, I'mhere.  Rick Taillieu(now boatless)Shearwater Yacht 
ClubHalifax, NS.___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List C 25 leak

[Mark G via CnC-List]

My boat also has the limber holes that allow the settee lockers to drain to the 
bilge.  They were there when I bought the boat.

My boat also only has the manual bilge pump in the cockpit.  I always planned 
to install an automatic bilge pump but never needed it.

For the most part my boat is dry.  While I sometimes get water in the bilge, it 
is barely enough to be drawn by the bilge pump.  I've noticed water droplets on 
the inside of the hull below the toe rail, and at times there was salt residue. 
 So I always thought that water splashing on the foredeck would get under the 
toe rail as it flowed aft and and drip down the inside of the hull.  It also 
was apparent that there would be more water in the bilge after a heavy 
rainstorm.  I've never tightened my toe rail bolts.  It's on that list of 
things to be done.
 
Curious about putting the toe rail of a C 25 in the water.  I know it's not a 
desirable state of sailing, more of a mistake.  But I've never seen the toe 
rail of my boat in the water, and I've had the boat heeled as far as 40 
degrees.  (I wouldn't have believed that number had my friend not got a photo 
of the compass.)  I've put the toe rail of a Pearson 26 in the water, I know 
what it looks like.  The C 25 is not all that stiff.  I'd say the Pearson 26 
is stiffer.  So what is the difference?  The beam, the freeboard, the shear, a 
combination of all of them?
 
Mark
C 25 Mk 1
Mattapoisett, MA



--

Message: 1Date: Sun, 1 May 2016 23:15:53 -0400From: "Rick Brass" 
To: Subject: Re: Stus-List C 
25 leakMessage-ID: <000a01d1a420$f054e7e0$d0feb7a0$@earthlink.net>Content-Type: 
text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My 25, a MK1 HIN 225, has been very dry for the 22 years I?ve owned her. So dry 
I don?t have a bilge pump except the OEM hand pump in the cockpit sole, and I 
dry out the bilge with a sponge every 6 months or so. Maybe I?m just lucky.



But on my boat there are small limber holes (maybe ?? diameter) in the bottom 
inside seam of the lockers under each settee. And that makes me want to ask if 
your bilge is dry when you take the boat out for a sail?



If I had water in the small bilge of the 25, and sailed at an extreme angle of 
heel (she is fastest with only 15-18 degrees of heel in my experience), some of 
the water would migrate from the bilge to the lockers.



I find it hard to envision spending enough time with the toerail in the water 
to get water ingress through the hull to deck joint, and a leak between the 
deck and toerail would let water in during a rain storm.



Rick Brass

Imzadi C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sailnomad 
via CnC-ListSent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 5:05 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: 
Sailnomad Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 leak



I have the same problem too, but it is in the bilge, and does not seem tn be 
related to heeling or sailing.

Ahmet

Winthrop, MA

C "Tabasco"



On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 3:27 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Hello everyone,

I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees. When it rains 
no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small amount of 
water in each bin. After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go for a sail. 
What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between the topsides and 
the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull on the down wind 
side. I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts along the toe rail that 
hold the topsides to the hull. I've read online that you hold the screw steady 
on top and turn the bolt underneath. I believe there is butyl tape in between 
the hull and the topsides. I was thinking of giving each bolt a 1/4 turn. Is my 
thinking on this correct?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Mark McMenamyC 25 "Icicle"Fort Pierce 
FL___

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greatly appreciated!




*
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Stus-List C 26 and 35 parts

[Mark G via CnC-List]

C 35 parts...

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/boa/5485675266.html

(I believe it's this guy http://www.massmarineparts.com/index.aspx )

C 26 parts...

http://providence.craigslist.org/bpo/5449947232.html

No affiliation to either one, I'm just local and saw the ads.

Mark
'73 C 25 Mk 1
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Mark G via CnC-List]

Sounds like my '73 25 Mk1 has a similar setup to your 27 Mk 5.  The upper 
gudgeon casting is a single and the lower gudgeon casting is a double.  On the 
25 there is a single hinge rod, half-inch diameter, which passes through both 
gudgeons.  I had a similar clunk in my rudder whenever I was on the mooring.  I 
was not able to locate any off-the-shelf replacement gudgeons which were 
anywhere near as beefy as these originals on my boat.

I brought the gudgeons, the hinge rod, and the mating parts from the rudder to 
a machine shop so they understood the issue.  They opened up the already 
enlarged hole in the gudgeon only slightly, enough to make it round again.  
Then they turned down the OD of two flanged bronze bushings to achieve the 
desired fit, and pressed them into the gudgeon.  The ID of the bushings was 
then bored to match the rod size.  I don't have any concerns with the strength 
of it.  These pinned joints are strong as long as the clearance between the pin 
and the journal is minimized.

I just noticed that South Shore Yachts does sell the single gudgeons, $90 each. 
 They advise you to replace the double gudgeon with two of the singles.___

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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Mark G via CnC-List]

I am rarely a poster but a frequent viewer.  I would greatly prefer a forum to 
the list.  I use a forum to indulge one of my other expensive hobbies (see 
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/1-porsche-technical-forums/).  I find it to be a 
much more user-friendly format.  Also, there may be some savings in that you 
can incorporate the classifieds into one of the forums.  But don't take this 
the wrong way.  I greatly appreciate this list and all the work that it takes 
to run it!

- Original Message -From: cnc-list-request@cnc-list.comTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Fri, 13 Mar 2015 22:57:34 - (UTC)Subject: 
CnC-List Digest, Vol 110, Issue 49

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specificthan Re: 
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Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have a 
?Forum? similar to ?cruisersforum? or ?sailnet? instead of an email list (like 
this one).

PROS:1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list2. Follow a thread easier 
without having to read multiple emails.3. Easier to find past, archived 
messages and threads.4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.5. 
Easily moderated by more than one person. Threads can be deleted and 
undesirable subscribers blocked.6. No more 20-30 emails a day. Visit the site 
at your convenience and view the latest topics since your last visit.

CONS:1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional 
enhancements.2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on 
hosting site. ()3. Installation ? I?ve done it before and it does take some 
time. And a bit more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection.

Bottom line ? would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list? It 
does not matter to me.

Stu
*
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Re: Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives

[Mark G]

Bob,

I grew up on Cape Cod, spent ten years working in Groton, CT and living in 
Westerly, RI (which straddle Mystic), then relocated to Mattapoisett, MA for 
nine years to work in Newport, RI, then recently relocated to Dartmouth, MA.  I 
sail a CC 25 which I've owned and kept in Mattapoisett since 2007.

At the risk of being beheaded by other listers, here are my thoughts:

Yes, there are tax differences between the states and the pros / cons depends 
on your specific situation, everything from income taxes on federal pensions to 
excise taxes on cars and boats.  However, MA, RI and CT are relatively similar 
in comparison to, say, NH.  Housing prices and property taxes can vary quite a 
bit from town to town with the quality or reputation of the school system.

As of a year ago, my realtor, who serves both MA and RI, said the real estate 
markets between the two states were like night and day.  MA was recovering, RI 
was still depressed.  I suspect not much has changed.

There is plenty of wind on either Narragansett Bay or Buzzards Bay, but 
Buzzards Bay probably has a nastier reputation for its chop.

Family commitments require me to be on the Cape frequently.  Other than family, 
there is nothing on Cape Cod that is worth fighting the bridge traffic. While 
the largest traffic volume is between Memorial Day and Columbus Day, they 
maintain the two 80 year old bridges from around March 1st to Thanksgiving and 
that often requires lane closures.  If you are not dissuaded, there are some 
nice harbors and yards in Bourne and Falmouth along the eastern shore of 
Buzzards Bay - Kingman, Red Brook Harbor, Barlow's.

Aquidneck Island (Newport, Middletown and Portsmouth, RI) is also accessible 
only by bridges but bridge traffic is not much of an issue.

The boat destruction of Hurricane Bob in 1990 drove a lot of changes to 
moorings around here, but I don't believe that every town made the 
recommendations into firm requirements.  The place that actually had the most 
boat destruction over the last few years was New Bedford, which is protected by 
a multi-million dollar sea wall and hurricane gate.

The north shore of Buzzards Bay is known as the South Coast, not to be confused 
with the South Shore, which extends along Cape Cod Bay from Boston to Plymouth. 
 Mattapoisett is definitely an alternative to Marion worth considering.  The 
yards in Marion, Bardens and Burr Brothers, are much bigger operations than 
Mattapoisett Boatyard, where I and at least one other lister keep our boats.  
Mattapoisett Boatyard is surprisingly friendly to do-it-yourself boatowners.  
This site has a pretty good video overview of Mattapoisett, as well as some 
other local harbors: 
http://newenglandboating.com/news/new-england-boating-tv-mattapoisett-dec-16.html

The South Shore of MA isn't really known for sailing.  I have done some sailing 
in this area, from Boston down to Cohasset or so, and you don't get the winds 
that you get on Buzzards Bay and Narragansett Bay.  There are some nice sailing 
towns on the North Shore of MA, such as Marblehead.

There are long (10+ year) waiting lists to get town moorings at most harbors I 
am familiar with on Cape Cod and the South Coast.  To clear names off the 
mooring list, many towns now charge an annual fee just to remain on the list.  
However, unlike a few years ago, private moorings are readily available (either 
rented from someone, or through a boatyard).  Of course, you pay market rate 
for these.

As for airports, Logan (Boston) and Hartford are not nearly as easy to get to 
as TF Green in Warwick, RI.  From Dartmouth, MA or Westerly, RI, you can be at 
TF Green in 30-35 minutes.

Marion and Mattapoisett are much pricier than the adjacent towns of Wareham, 
Fairhaven, Dartmouth and Rochester.  Newton, MA is very accessible from 
anywhere on the South Coast - an hour up RT 24 or 495, as is the rest of the 
Boston area.  From Stonington, CT to Newton, MA would be a little less than two 
hours but it's not a difficult drive.

Providence has come a long way in the last 10 to 15 years and has a lot of nice 
restaurants and small theatres.

While pricey, even used, this book is a pretty good reference: 
http://www.amazon.com/Cruising-Guide-Narragansett-South-Massachusetts/dp/0070163049/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8qid=1388723525sr=8-1keywords=cruising+guide+buzzards+bay
 .

Melville located in Middletown, RI is just a few miles north of Newport but is 
very accessible from the north without having to venture into the crowds, 
traffic and parking of Newport itself.

Mystic, CT and Bristol, RI also very nice places to live and sail.

Mark



- Original Message -From: Bob McLaughlin rmclaughli...@gmail.comTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 23:09:04 - (UTC)Subject: 
Stus-List So New England retirement/harbor perspectives




Irsquo;m interested in localsrsquo; opinions of good towns to retire to and 
good harbor suggestions to move my CC to in the So New England 

Stus-List '82 CC 29 parts

[Mark G]

A guy in Wisconsin is parting out an '82 CC 29 on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/82-C-C-29-parting-out-/321246259829?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gearhash=item4acbc4ea75




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Re: Stus-List halyards again wire-to-rope

[Mark G]

Let me reiterate the point Dwight is making about getting the length at the 
wire end right.  You don't want the wire-to-rope splice going around the sheave 
at the top of the mast and you don't want it going around a mast-mounted winch. 
 The splice is stiff and doesn't seem to have the same bend radius as wire or 
rope.  Also, the splice can be larger in diameter than the rope itself and is 
not very compressible which can cause problems with existing sheaves, etc.  
Adding a furler and a halyard restrainer was enough to throw off the length of 
wire on my existing genoa halyard.  With the main halyard you've got to 
consider reefing, etc.  I've seen some old jibs with pendants at the head.  I'm 
pretty sure one of the purposes of a pendant was to adjust the hoist to suit 
the wire-to-rope halyard.  It goes without saying that you can always shorten 
the length of wire.

Mark
'73 CC 25


- Original Message -From: dwight dwight...@gmail.comTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Mon, 02 Dec 2013 21:41:12 - (UTC)Subject: Re: 
Stus-List halyards again


I never get the wire on my hands, so Idonrsquo;t worry about fish 
hookshellip;you need to adjust length at the wireend to make that 
righthellip;my boat was delivered with rope to wire about 40years 
agohellip;the sheaves donrsquo;t mind some new wirehellip;my lines 
donrsquo;tchew on each otherhellip;if they did I would change 
somethinghellip;if myhalyards get that close to the water that floating 
matters I am in big troublehellip;hydrophobic,I think steel wire is too
 
Flipping end for end, really how many ofus do that, if itrsquo;s that bad on 
one end I just get a new one and withwire to rope that is about every 10-15 
years for mehellip;I can handle that


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Re: Stus-List Hull Numbers vs build site date

[Mark G]

I'll repost this regarding the 25...I've always been curious about how many 
25's were made, Mk1 and Mk2, and how many in each model year.  I've seen Mk1's 
from 1972 to 1977, and Mk2's from 1980 to 1984.  So whenever I see a HIN, I 
write it down.  I have a list of a few dozen of them.  For the 25, the 
1972-1974 boats are all CCY and the 1976-1984 boats are all ZCC.  The boats 
which the owners identify as '75s are a mix of both, with the earlier hull 
numbers being CCY and the later being ZCC.  But all boats with 75 at the end 
of the hull number are ZCC.

Mark
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Re: Stus-List Mass Maritime Auction

[Mark G]

I'm only about a half hour away from Mass Maritime and I've been attending 
these auctions off and on for 6 or 8 years.  It's a great opportunity to see a 
lot of boats of all makes and lengths to get a feel for size, accomodations, 
build quality, etc. all at once without bothering a broker or a seller.  While 
none of these boats are complete derelicts (Mass Maritime doesn't accept 
those), the majority are in need of significant TLC or have some issues: rusty 
keel bolts, corroded chain plates, rotted bulkheads, soft decks, etc.  So it's 
also a nice opportunity for a prospective buyer, after reading up on old 
sailboats, to do some field work.

I am only familiar with one boat that sold through the Mass Maritime auction.  
It was about 5 years ago.  A '77 CC 25.  They had it listed as a CC 26.  It 
had a Vire inboard, self-tailing winches, furler, new sails, spinnaker gear.  
Decent shape.  The price was around $8500 if I recall.  I put in a low-ball 
offer and didn't get it.  The same boat came up for sale locally about two 
years later.  I spoke to the owner, he got the boat at the auction with a 
$4,000 bid.
 
The biggest problem I see with this auction, for both the sellers and the 
buyers, is that you can't see / hear the engines run.  So you really have to 
bid on the assumption that the engine requires a rebuild or replacement.  
Otherwise, you're taking a significant risk.

Until 2005-2006, the tax deduction you got for donating a boat was its market 
value.  That's pretty subjective.  The law changed in 2005-2006, and now what 
you get for the tax deduction is the actual price which the donated boat sells 
at.  Not nearly as favorable.  I know this because my boat went through the 
Mass Maritime auction in 2005.  I later met the previous owner, and he said he 
donated it when he did because he knew the law was about to change and greatly 
lessen the value of his deduction.

I'll be there tomorrow, but not for long.  It's going to be unusually frigid 
for this area at this time of year, and the boats are stored at the edge of an 
airfield.  There is no protection from the wind.

Mark

- Original Message -From: Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.netTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 23:20:09 - (UTC)Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Mass Maritime Auction


I wonder if those prices are what the donors got for theirwrite-offs.
Sea Leaf was for sale for around 800K a couple years ago, showingthere 
1,500,000!
Maybe original cost. 
 

Bill Coleman
CC 39 

 


From: CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Harry 
HallgringSent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 4:27 PMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Mass Maritime Auction


 
A few CCs being auctioned off at this weekendrsquo;s Mass.Maritime auction.
 
http://www.maritime.edu/apps/boats/
 
 
Harry

 


Sent from my old iPhone



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Re: Stus-List Navy 44s being auctioned

[Mark G]

A couple years ago Practical Sailor had an article about the new 44's that were 
being built for Annapolis.  A sailboat built to mil-specs.  It was a great 
article.

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/34_8/boatreview/Navy-44-MkII-Sailboat-Review_5651-1.html___
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Re: Stus-List Getting young people into sailing?

[Mark G]

I started skiing in my late 20's, started sailing in my early 30's and didn't 
buy my boat until my late 30's.

I tell non-sailors that for me sailing is a lot like skiing: the environment is 
what makes you go, but it's also the environment that poses the challenge; I'm 
nowhere close to mastering either skiing or sailing, so I'm constantly working 
to improve my technique - whether turning on skis or trimming sails.

Another thing I tell people: don't confuse sailing with boat ownership.  
They're two different things, and can be had separately.

There are two sailing clubs in Boston.  They offer boats from 20 ft to 40 ft.  
At least one of them keeps boats in Marblehead, Newport, Westport, 
Provincetown, and Cataumet.  This gives you access to Cape Cod Bay, Buzzards 
Bay, Narragansett Bay and beyond.  Annual membership with access to Pearson 26 
sized boats is about $2500; annual membership which includes use of the 40 
footer is $5k or $6k I think.  Sounds like a lot of money but cheaper than boat 
ownership and you get to re-up every year.

I work with at least a half dozen twenty-somethings who sail, but I work in 
Newport, RI: that might have something to do with it.  They race on other 
people's boats, some beer can racing, some more competitive stuff.  They all 
started when they first moved to the area, were looking for something to do, 
and were invited out.  Some were non-boaters, some were wind-surfers, some 
guys, some girls.

One of the other two CC 25's in my harbor is owned by a college kid.  His 
neighbor gave him the boat, which had been on stands in the backyard for at 
least a decade.  He fixed it up and got it back in the water.  I'm pretty sure 
he gets a reduced rate on his mooring by working for the boatyard as a launch 
driver.  It can be done!

Mark
CC 25
Williwaw

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Re: Stus-List COCKPIT DRAINS - Criss - Cross or not?

[Mark G]

Rick,

That is really interesting because I've had my '73 25 heeled over to 40 degrees 
and have never had water in the cockpit.  What could account for the 
difference?  Drains are port-to-port, stbd-to-stbd.  At some time in the life 
of my boat prior to me the gate valves were replaced.  The cockpit floor also 
had an extensive repair and it's possible but unlikely the drains were moved.  
I think my thru-hulls are closer to 12 off centerline but I haven't looked 
lately.  

You race your 25, right?  How many do you typically have on board... 5 or 6?  
I've never had more than 4 and some were kids.  With a smaller boat, that may 
be the difference.  When I sailed at the Boston Harbor Sailing Club, they had 
converted Solings with a different deck.  The cockpits were self-bailing only 
when they were unmanned sitting on the mooring.  To go sailing one person would 
climb aboard and close the valves before the others got on board otherwise 
you'd have an inch of water in the cockpit.  Of course you had to remember to 
open the valves when you got off.

Mark

- Original Message -From: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.netTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 19:13:18 - (UTC)Subject: Re: 
Stus-List COCKPIT DRAINS - Criss - Cross or not?


As a matter of policy, itrsquo;s probably best that the scupper drains always 
be crossed. That way there is little chance of water getting into the cockpit 
when heeled over.
 
As a matter of practicality, I think it depends on the boat.
 
My 25 mk1 was plumbed port to port. The cockpit sole is about 6rdquo; above 
the waterline and the scuppers are about 18rdquo; off the centerline; and the 
boat has a beam less than 9 feet. At heel angles of 15 degrees or so you had 
wet feet. When I redid the seacocks (replacing the old gate valves) and 
replaced hoses, I crossed the lines.
 
My Newport 28 (A CC design) had scuppers aft that drained through the transom 
just above the waterline. When motoring, the transom squatted down and your 
feet got wet. No point is crossing the hoses, so I learned to steer from 
forward in the cockpit.
 
On my 38, there are 4 scuppers plumbed to 2 seacocks, with the port scuppers 
going to the port seacock. But the cockpit sole is 12 to 16 inches above the 
waterline, the scuppers are about 18rdquo; off center, and the beam is over 12 
feet. So the boat would need to heel to almost 45 degree for the scuppers to be 
below the waterline, and that takes a LOT of wind (plus itrsquo;s SLOW). There 
is almost no room back there to cross the hoses. And I need to be able to take 
the starboard hose out in order to access the steering and some of the other 
stuff in the ldquo;basementrdquo;. So I have no plans to reroute the hoses.
 
Alex, you probably need to look at the geography of your boat and do what seems 
to work best for you.
 
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
 
 
 

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Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail

[Mark G]

 
ATN tackers show up occasionally on Ebay.  That's where I got mine.___
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Re: Stus-List 33tep rebuild

[Mark G]

Andrew,

Maybe Stu or another lister can provide better help, but here's what I know 
about searching older posts:

There doesn't seem to be a direct link to the archives for this list.  To get 
to the archives, go to the photo album home page www.cncphotoalbum.com.

In the upper left corner click home.

Scroll down and click the link to subscribe now as if to subscribe to this 
list.

Near the top is a link to the CnC-List archives.

I don't believe there is a way to search the entire archives.  You have to 
click each month and scan through the subjects.  However, I can tell you from 
experience that the contents of this list comes up occasionally in Google 
searches.

Mark

- Original Message -
From: andrew rothweiler 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 12:34:32 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List 33tep rebuild

Thank you for the responses and info about the 33-2 potential mast step 
rebuild.  A previous contributer was mentioned, who described his first hand 
experience with this issue, and the related cost.Is there a way to search older 
posts to try to locate this post? Do you think that if a boat does not exihibit 
this mast step problem right now (if that what the survey shows when it's done 
in the next week or so),  that the problem could still occur in the future? Or 
is it a case in which if the problem hasn't shown up by now, this particular 
boat will likely not have the problem later?  Thank you again for your help and 
courtesy.
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Re: Stus-List Boom Vang for CC 27 Mk III

[Mark G]

Peter,

I have an early CC 25 which has the same mast cross-section and mast step as 
the 27.

I added a boom vang about 5 years ago.  The riggers put a bail around the mast 
itself.  They installed reinforcement plates on each side of the mast where the 
bail attaches, as is recommended for highly loaded bails.  The boom has the 
same thing.  I'll send you a picture off-list.  I've had no issues with it, but 
if I were to do it again, I'd put a wider bail around the mast step as you are 
considering and not put the holes in the mast.

That 45 degree side plate shown in your photo isn't factory.  It looks like 
bent sheet metal and maybe a little weak for the task.  Here is something 
similar but beefier from the CC27Assocation website.

http://www.cc27association.com/fixes/various/source/mastbase.html

With your arrangement the boom vang also puts a side load on the 45 degree side 
plate.

Mark






- Original Message -
From: Peter Fell 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sat, 20 Jul 2013 02:18:39 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List Boom Vang for CC 27 Mk III





My CC 27 has a mast-step that looks like this:
 
http://imageshack.us/a/img191/407/ubt7.jpg
 
The previous owner had attached the 4:1 purchase boom vang to the 45 degree 
side plate which has resulted in bending the side plate!
 
It was recommended to me to use a boom/mast bail bolted across the vertical 
portion of the mast-step bracket at the aft-most set of holes, with a bolt and 
filler ‘tube’ to avoid compressing the mast step bracket. Or to replace the aft 
mast-retention pin with the same set-up.
 
Dimensions of the mast step (‘vertical’ bracket) are:
 
Outside width = 5 inches
Inside width = 4-1/4 inches
Hole diameter = 7/8 inches
Pin diameter = 5/8 inches
 
2 problems I am finding:
 
1) I can’t find a 5-inch wide bail
2) The larger size bails I have found (maybe 4 inch wide is the largest 
I’ve seen?) use a smaller bolt than 5/8 inches and no meat to drill out the 
holes in them, so there would be a lot of ‘slop’ there.
 
I’m also concerned that if the boom vang can bend that mast-step side 
plate, what’s it going to do to a side-loaded bail and/or the vertical 
mast-step 
bracket?
 
So ... perhaps a mast tang / hound?  (much as I hate drilling holes in 
the mast ... but multiple holes would spread the load).  I have read 
somewhere that part of the side of the standard CC mast section is thicker 
which helps with this sort of thing? Can anyone verify? Sorry, didn’t measure 
the mast width. There’s also the sail track there that would complicate a tang 
/ 
hound installation.
 
By the way, the previous owner also bent the heck out of the through-bolt 
on the boom bail. I’ve replaced that with a new SS bolt 
 
Thanks!
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Re: Stus-List HIN Again - Sorry

[Mark G]

Rick,

I've made a habit of writing down CC 25 HINs every time I see one in a 
boatyard or when one comes up for sale and the owner lists the HIN.  What I'm 
curious about is how many were built in each year of the production run, but it 
also gives me some insight into your question.  I've got a couple dozen HIN's 
in my spreadsheet out of a production run of about 550 hulls.

Every 25 I have listed from the '72, '73, and '74 model years has an HIN 
beginning with CCY.  Every 25 I have listed from '76 and '77 model years has an 
HIN beginning with ZCC.  The change occurs during the '75 model year, and 
within the '75 model year, there are no ZCC's before any CCY's.

The last CCY I have listed is CCY253711174.  The first ZCC I have listed is 
ZCC253980275.

Mark

 
 
 800x600
 


- Original Message -  From: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net  
To: billb...@sbcglobal.net, cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Sent: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 
02:13:40 - (UTC)  Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again  - SorryBill;My 
25 is certainly a CCY and the customs documentation shows it was made in  
Canada and shipped to the US in very early 75.The 38, which is a Mk1, HIN 
047, has the manufacturers code ZCC. It was made  in Rhode Island in early 76, 
and was listed as ZCC on the customs  documentation when shipped to NOTL for 
addition of optional equipment, and  also as ZCC when reimported to Mt. 
Clemens, MI. I'd need to check the  builders file on the boat, but IIRC, the 
second customs paperwork shows the  Canadian content to be about $2k of a total 
value of about $36K.As I said, I'm curious whether anyone on the list has a 
25 mk1 that is not a  CCY.Now I'm curious to know if there are and 38s with 
HIN of 89 or lower (HIN 90  from about September 76 was the approximate break 
between the MK1 and the  MK2, I've been told)that is a CCY?BTW, the ZCC 
code is still in the USCG database, assigned to CC Yachts on  Regent St in 
NOTL, Ontario. The CCY code has apparently been reassigned to  something called 
Calder Building Co in Mesa, AZ. And there is a CC  Boatbuilding (CCW) that is 
in Sargentville, ME.What does Tartan.CC use for the current models of CC? 
   Rick Brass  -Original Message-  From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina  Sent: Friday, 
July 12, 2013 3:54 PM  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN 
Again - SorryThe manufacturer codes are not something the manufacturer can 
play around  with. CC was ASSIGNED CCY when they became a company in Canada 
and the  change was when they opened the Rhode Island plant. Once the Rhode 
Island  Plant was in operation, it was ASSIGNED CCY and at that time, the 
Canadian  plant was ASSIGNED ZCC. There was no overlap, and Candian built boats 
could  not legally have CCY as the code once the Rhode Island plant was 
operating.  It was not CC's choice which code to use. The only way I can 
possible see a  Rhode Island boat having ZCC would be if it had something 
seriously wrong  with it when it came out of the mold, and it was shipped to 
Canada and  RE-manufactured with a new Canadian ID number.Bill BinaOn 
7/12/2013 3:40 PM, Woody Hamel wrote:   Thx Rick! a lot of good information. 
It certainly is beamy but my first  boat was a DS16, and then a Westerly Nomad 
22, and now this, so it makes  sense it seems so large in comparison. It was 
sold to us as a 27, but the  ownership corrected that, lol. The price was 
right, and they did some good  repairs. We even took a measuring tape from the 
bow pulpit, to the stern  rail, even then it appeared to be just shy of 27. Thx 
again, have a great  day!   Cheers,   Woody   Goldfinch CC 26   Sent 
wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.   Envoyé sans fil 
par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. -Original 
Message-   From: Rick BrassDate: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 03:01:04   To:
Subject: Re: Stus-List HIN Again  - Sorry   CC Yachts used both CCY and 
ZCC as the Manufacturers Identity Code in the Hull Identification Number.  
My 25 is CCY, and was built in Niagara on the Lake, Ontario according 
to  the customs documentation in the builders file. I have been told that 
the 25  mk1 was built in Rhode Island, but my boat was built before the 
Rhode Island plant was opened. (I'd actually be interested to know if 
anyone has a 25  mk1 with a ZCC code? And whether your builders file shows 
where it was  made.)   ___ 
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Stus-List Wave 26

[Mark G]

Bill,

There was a CC Wave 26 for sale around here (SE Mass) about 5 years ago, but 
it's the only one I've ever heard of.  I think it was an '86, while production 
of the 27 Mk V started in either '83 or '84.  But honestly, if one was bobbing 
around on a mooring right next to me, I'd assume it's a 27 Mk V and think 
nothing of it.

Mark


- Original Message -  From: Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.net  To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Sent: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 18:45:51 - (UTC)  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List HIN Again  - SorryI could be wrong, but I don't think there 
were different Mark versions   of the 26. There was just the 26, and the 
later 26 Wave, which looks   sort of like a pre-cursor of the 27 Mark V, except 
it had a wing keel   and very shoal draft. I have never seen a Wave in the 
flesh. Has any one   ever seen one? There can't be very many!Bill Bina  
On 7/11/2013 2:04 PM, Woody Hamel wrote:   Thx Keith,   Looks like a good 
website, and confirms my HIN, will bookmark it for future reference. But is 
1977,  26ft a mark III anyone?   Cheers,   Woody   Goldfinch 26 Mk?   
Pickering ON  ___  This List is 
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Re: Stus-List CC Yawl

[Mark G]

This boat is at my boatyard.  I've walked by it a dozen times over the last few 
weeks and admired it without even a thought it might be a CC.  It doesn't have 
the star in the cove stripe.  It appears to have the hull of a Redline 41 but a 
very different deck and coach roof (if that is the correct term).

- Original Message -
From: Dennis C. 
To: Cn Clist 
Sent: Wed, 10 Jul 2013 12:47:25 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List CC Yawl

Didn't know CC made a yawl but here's a listing for one:

Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Mark G]

MOB was part of a basic keelboat class I took when I first learned to sail.  We 
used a J-24 and practiced with a person in the water.  The instructor allowed 
us to try several methods but ultimately it was the Reach and Reach or what I 
learned as Quick Turn that seemed most effective.  The hardest part was 
always pulling the person out of the water, who wasn't allowed to assist you.

(About 6 months after the keelboat class, I had the opportunity to ride a 
nuclear submarine in the Bahamas.  At the end of the ride, with the boat 
surfaced and waiting for us to be transferred back to the island, the CO 
decided to run a MOB drill while a young officer was in control of the ship 
from up on the sail.  I couldn't see anything from down in the boat, only hear 
the orders over the intercom and feel the movement of the boat.  But the 
similarity to what we had done in the J-24 was apparent, while the boats 
couldn't have been more different.)

I later took a more cruising-oriented sailing class which used a Pearson 303.  
Again, I found the quick-turn to be most effective.

I sometimes have passengers on my CC 25 but seldom have crew.  I operate under 
the assumption that in a MOB situation I'm probably going to be the only one 
left aboard or at least the only one who knows much about sailing.  Dropping 
sails, dropping the outboard into the water and starting it, etc., just isn't 
something that will work in my particular case.

I don't consider my boat-handling skills to be particularly great.  When I see 
a styrofoam cup or plastic bag in the water out in the bay, if there's no boat 
traffic around, I typically take the opportunity to practice my quick-turn MOB. 
 Bringing the boat to a stop with the trash alongside is challenging, similar 
to a mooring pick-up under sail, but typically I can reach down and pull the 
trash out of the water with my hand or a boat hook.  My biggest concern is 
still how to get the person out of the water.  This season I will finally have 
a boarding ladder installed on my transom.  But if the person in the water is 
incapacitated, it might be impossible to get them out of the water if they're 
not wearing a harness or a life vest with D-rings.

I'd be curious how others who sail short-handed, or sail the outboard powered 
CC's, plan for MOB.

Mark



- Original Message -
From: Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com
To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Sent: Fri, 24 May 2013 05:35:57 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to be 
interesting.

Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the 
advantages of each.
http://www.gosailing.info/Man%20Overboard.htm
http://www.rorc.org/general-conditions/man-overboard.html
Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the 
leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of the 
MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery fails.

Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to do?
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA___
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Stus-List CC 25 transom teak trim

[Mark G]

Before I install a stern rail on my '73 CC 25 I want to replace the two teak 
strips across the top of the transom.  They've been sanded down over time to 
half their original thickness.  I'm going to pull some off a salvage boat that 
are in far better shape.  They have bungs in them so I assume they're bolted 
down.  Does anybody have any firsthand knowledge if they're just screwed into 
the fiberglass or are there nuts on the underside?  (If there are nuts, access 
will be tough and visibility will be zero.)  Are they also held down with 
adhesive or sealant?  I'm not sure if they're part of the hull-deck joint at 
the stern or just cosmetic.  While the top of the teak trim is flat, the 
underside seems to have a profile to fit over the hull-deck joint.

Mark___
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Re: Stus-List CC 27 Mk V in MD Gemini

[Mark G]

For anybody that's looking for a 27 Mk V... the boat below has been for sale 
for years and I bet you can get it for considerably less than the asking price. 
 Even though the ad expired, the boat is still there, and still for sale.  I 
know a little about the boat, as I looked at it before I bought my 25.  Contact 
me off list and I'll tell you what I know. (I have no affiliation with the boat 
or the owner.)

Mark
27 ' CC Sailboat

Date: 2013-03-13, 3:09PM



1984 27 foot CC Sailboat as is

Engine need work



Hull, Sails, Rigging good shape 



Call 508-888-3284
 Location: Sagamore Beachit's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or 
other commercial interests



Original URL: http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/boa/3679014896.html



- Original Message -
From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sun, 31 Mar 2013 22:48:38 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 27 Mk V in MD Gemini

Edd,
Did your dad consider the '86 CC 27' MkV in Greenport asking $10K at 
Yachtworld?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 9:38:36 PM
Subject: Stus-List CC 27 Mk V in MD Gemini

Listers,

My father is making an offer and setting up a survey on Gemini, a 27 Mk V in 
Maryland. 

Does anyone know the boat? Would appreciate any information on this particular 
one. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
CC 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5
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Re: Stus-List CC 25 shoal draft keel

[Mark G]

David,

Would love to know a little more if you can find out without too much trouble.  
I'm wondering if he worked with a Nav Arch to make the modification.  I noticed 
that he doesn't mention the mod in the ad, so maybe it was done by a prior 
owner and he's not aware that it's unusual.

Mark

- Original Message -
From: David Blair dblair...@telus.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 16:59:07 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 25 shoal draft keel

That pic is at our yacht club so I may be able to find more information if 
desired. Not familiar with the boat myself but must be a RVYC member. Ciao 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark G
Sent: February-23-13 5:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC 25 shoal draft keel 
Here's something you don't see too often: a 25 modified with a shoal draft keel:

http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/CC-25-MKII_19134950___
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Re: Stus-List Used boat prices

[Mark G]

Colin,

Your post reminded me of a CC 25 I saw for sale a while back.  Similar 
situation, a boat you can typically get for less than $5k in these parts going 
for $17.5k.  I wasn't surprised to see it's still for sale.  Here's a link:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/C-%26-C-25-2452904/At-our-office-in-Norwalk-CT./CT/United-States

Interestingly, now sale pending.  Wonder what it is selling for.  But if you 
add up the work that has gone into this boat (add says over $30k!) and the 
features (trailer, cover, new sails, probably a new 15 hp 4-stroke outboard), 
you couldn't replicate it for the asking price.  But it's a rare person who 
will pay $17.5K for a CC 25, and an even rarer person who will sink $30k into 
one!  The portlights are trimmed in wood, the cockpit floor is wood.   I'd love 
to know the story behind this boat.  If anyone knows, please post.

Mark

- Original Message -
From: Colin Kilgour charliekilo...@gmail.com
To: CC List CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Sent: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 13:58:24 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List Used boat prices

I know we've all been shocked at the deflation in used boat prices
recently.  If you're a buyer, it's a great market.  If you're a
seller, not so much.

And fairly often you see boat listings from sellers who didn't get the
memo about the price deflation.

So last night I'm having dinner at the club and on the bulletin board
is an ad for a Mirage 24 (a CC design). Looks like nice boat with
decent upgrades.  Ad doesn't specify the year, but let's assume
mid-70's.

Asking price Wait for it. $25,000!

Holy cow!! I can buy half a dozen Mirage 24's for that price and still
have money left over

This must be one special boat...

Cheers
Colin

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

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Re: Stus-List Attn: Harry-Miracle

[Mark G]

My 4 year quest for a stern rail for my 25 ended last fall when I salvaged one 
off another boat being scrapped locally the value of it's keel.

I pursued a new one from the OEM, but the cost was high, not to mention the 
cost associated with shipping something that bulky.  

I had a lead on a used one in the Midwest, but with shipping it just didn't 
make sense.

Your best bet is probably to use what is left of your stern rail as a pattern 
to have a new one made locally.

These guys are great for used sailboat parts: http://www.massmarineparts.com

They have a lot of stuff that is not listed on their website.  You have to talk 
to Jon to find out what they actually have.


- Original Message -
From: Tim Goodyear timg...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 14:00:57 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Attn: Harry-Miracle

The building that Mojito was in at Dutch Wharf collapsed.  It was a very light 
structure (glorified tent), thankfully, so I'm hoping not too much damage, but 
people can't get inside yet.  Anyone know a source for a new stern rail, 
possibly new pedestal / instruments?
TimMojitoCC 35-3Branford, CT

On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 8:39 PM, Harry hhallgr...@cox.net wrote:
Bill,Very wet snow.  We didn’t get that much on the
coast, no more than a foot.  It changed to rain after dark on Friday
night, then back to snow.  It was 46 and rainy today. Harry -Original 
Message-
From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Bill Coleman
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013
8:21 PM
To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Attn:
Harry-Miracle Musta
been really wet snow -  Bill
ColemanCC
39  From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Harry
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013
8:12 PM
To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Attn:
Harry-Miracle Andy,You have heard correct about
Building 1.  The good news is MIRAGE
was in the back of the building, which remains intact.  The building was
slated for replacement in the near future as it is the last original building
onsite.  Nobody was hurt; and aside from the structure, damage was
minimal.  The site was developed at the beginning of WWII as the fuel
depot for the North Atlantic destroyer fleet and training site for all PT boat
crews, including President Kennedy. 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/ 
HarryMIRAGENortheast 39Newport, RI   -Original Message-
From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Andrew Burton
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013
5:43 PM
To:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Attn:
Harry-Miracle Harry,

I hear Building 1 at NEB collapsed. I really hope that's not where Miracle is.
Keeping my fingers crossed for you, mate.

Andy

CC 40

Peregrine


-- 

Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett Ave

Newport, RI

USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

phone  +401 965 5260 
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Re: Stus-List Long Island CC 25 group

[Mark G]

Oops!  Forgot to paste the link...

http://www.lisail.com/09-11-November/index.html

- Original Message -
From: Mark G mjg...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Fri, 08 Feb 2013 17:36:17 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Long Island CC 25 group


Richard,
About a year ago this guy Ted Drossos replus...@aol.com responded as written 
below to a similar question from another lister.  Below is a link to the 
magazine article.  Some fantastic photos of some beautiful 25s!  Hope this 
helps.
Mark

I'm a member of the South Bay Cruising Club (SBCC) where there is 
indeed a large fleet of CC 25's. The racing venue is the Great 
South Bay on the south shore of Long Island NY. There is a strong 
interest in the 25 here. We run over 50 PHRF races each season and only 
one race is strictly a CC 25 event. The SBCC is a paper club, no 
formal clubhouse,  but we have a very active membership. Drop me a note 
if you need more information.

- Original Message -
From: Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thu, 07 Feb 2013 15:09:12 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Long Island CC 25 group

Would anyone know how to get in touch with the CC 25 group that sails/races 
off Long Island; this group was featured in the LI Sailing magazine about a 
year or so back...thanks

Richard1987 33-II 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 

Louisville, Kentucky 40202 

502-584-7255

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Re: Stus-List Main Reefing System

[Mark G]

When I converted my 25 from a roller reefing main to slab / jiffy reefing a few 
years back, I worked with Rigging Only in Fairhaven.  They provided everything 
including the hooks.  There are several ways to go depending on your gooseneck. 
 Just email them a photo.

- Original Message -
From: djhaug...@juno.com.
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Fri, 08 Feb 2013 23:12:44 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Main Reefing System

My Boat does not have the hooks at the goosneck you are all describing.  Any 
idea where i might find them? Danny,Lolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Indigo ind...@thethomsons.us
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Main Reefing System
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 17:55:14 -0500

“To reef, lower the main, one person hooks the little strap to the hook on the 
gooseneck, and another hauls in the leech line (my boat has a small winch on 
the side of the boom and a cleat just forward of that). When the line is tight, 
then secure it and hoist the main back up.” I have always tensioned the halyard 
first (stops the ring on the strap falling off the hook) and then the leech 
line. Is this incorrect? Jonathan35-III – Connecticut in the Blizzard!  From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 4:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Main Reefing System There are two ways to go - a single 
line system which can be controlled from the cockpit or a two-man system. The 
two man system is easier to rig. Put a reefing cringle about 3 feet up the luff 
of the main - my sailmaker then put a short strap through the cringle - the 
strap has a ring at each end. Attached to the gooseneck of the boom is a hook, 
mine is nearly a circle - of about 1/4 inch stainless. About three feet up on 
the leech of the main, put another cringle. On the boom, put a flush fitting 
block on one side and a padeye on the other, about a foot in from the end of 
the boom (make sure when your main is dropped down, these will be able to pull 
back on the main leech). The reefing line is run from the padeye, up to the 
cringle on the leech, down to the block and then forward along the side of the 
boom (some run it inside - maybe that's better if you reef a lot, around here 
we don't).  To reef, lower the main, one person hooks the little strap to the 
hook on the gooseneck, and another hauls in the leech line (my boat has a small 
winch on the side of the boom and a cleat just forward of that). When the line 
is tight, then secure it and hoist the main back up. The single line system 
just continues the reefing line forward to the gooseneck and then through a 
block up to the cringle at the luff and back down to something to secure it. 
Sometimes people run this through a block at the base of the mast and then back 
to the cockpit - to a winch. Then one person can do the whole thing. I hope I 
explained it OK. Gary- Original Message - 
From:johnrmcl@aol.comTo:cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Friday, February 08, 2013 
3:53 PMSubject: Stus-List Main Reefing System I will put a reefing system in 
for the loose-footed main on my 29-2 this spring.  Would appreciate any 
suggestions or plans from all you knowledgeable folks out there.  John 
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Re: Stus-List STORAGE CONTRACTS

[Mark G]

In Mattapoisett, MA my mooring contract runs 15 Apr through 1 Nov but the dates 
of the storage contract are not defined.

- Original Message -
From: airdale...@juno.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Mon, 04 Feb 2013 20:28:37 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List STORAGE CONTRACTS

Can anyone explain what is the norm for the winter time period of a storage 
contract?Does it depend solely on the facility that is offering the contract?  
What period would you say this statement covers: Fall of 2012 through Spring 
2013 My calendars state that Fall starts Sept 21 or 22 every year and Spring 
ends June 21 or 22 every year.  Is there a different Fall and Spring time for 
the Boating World? One facility with the statement above is telling me it is 
November through April  (a 6 month period.)and Summer is the 6 months of May 
through October.  
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Re: Stus-List Early CC 30 Mk 1

[Mark G]

Ed,

The 30 Mk1 had a similar rudder shape to the 27 Mk1 and Mk2.  There is quite a 
bit of information on the C 27 site about the rudder and several owners have 
replaced them with the Mk3 type rudder.  You might find some information there. 
 http://www.cc27association.com/fixes/rudder/rudder.html

Mark

- Original Message -
From: elev...@grayinsco.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 20:26:38 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List Early CC 30 Mk 1

Rick:

I own an early CC 30 Mk 1. The
Builders Plate is not legible to let me identify the hull number, but based
on markings on the dinette's seat back cushions, I believe I have hull
# 19. I have a couple of questions that have been bugging me for some time.


If you have the original boom, is it
a roller reefing boom? If so, how do you adjust the outhaul? For years,
I have been unable to figure out how to adjust this.

 Does your boat's rudder have the
profile as shown on the several CC 30 brochures? My boat has a completely
different rudder shape implying to me it was replaced sometime in its lifetime
with its own unique shape. 

Ed 

1971 CC 30 Mk 1 Dream Girl
New Orleans
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Re: Stus-List Two more boat reviews on the horizon

[Mark G]

Russ,

Good Old Boat is a good old fashioned print publication.  It's a pretty good 
magazine if you haven't had the chance to check it out.  I've been a subscriber 
since about 2004, and bought all the prior issues on ebay.  The magazine has 
only been published since about 1998.  I will admit, though, its boat reviews 
aren't its strongpoint.  They tend to say pretty much the same thing about 
every boat and never say anything critical.  The best sailboat reviews are 
still Practical Sailor as far as I'm concerned.  I bought the two volume PS set 
which contains all their published sailboat reviews.  PS did review the 
MacGregor 26 and said it's pretty good for what it is.  But, of course, what is 
there to compare it to?  It's a trailerable powerboat sailboat hybrid.

Mark
CC 25

- Original Message -
From: Russ  Melody russ...@telus.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Fri, 04 Jan 2013 02:08:18 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Two more boat reviews on the horizon



For me the point really is about respect. 


Respect for Good Old Boat, the magazine (Internet publication or whatever
ya call these this nowadays, humbug). How can I offer respect to the
publication if they refer to a MacGregor 26 as a good boat? It ain't! It
may do good things but face it, it is a lousy boat... and an even worse
ferry. 

Less knowledgeable people than we may be mislead.


Cheers,
Russ

Sweet
35 mk-1


At 04:43 PM 03/01/2013, you wrote:
MacGregors:  I can
appreciate any boat that gets you excited, and MacGregors have gotten
many people onto the water that otherwise never would.  

Sometimes, price is a decider.  I can appreciate the MacGregors and
Ventures and other boats out there.  I started with a styrafoam
sailboard called a Snark, graduated to a Sunfish, to a Cape Dory 22, and
spent several years boatless, windsurfing 5 to 6 dys a week, before
buying another sitdown sailboat, our present CC 34R.  I got a
good buy because of the market, and after 10 years have spent more on
slipfees, haulouts and upgrades than the purchase price, but I wouldn't
do it any different.  Love the boat.  Guess it picked
me?


I just don't think we should bash other brands of sailboats.  They
may like to upgrade to a CC someday?   


Chuck

Resolute

1990 CC 34R

Atlantic City, NJ
From: David Risch davidrisc...@msn.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2013 6:58:14 PM
Subject: Stus-List Two more boat reviews on the horizon


When I was 9 my Dad bought a new 1969 Venture 21 and I was so excited you
would think it was Christmas.   We couldn't sail worth a damn
but it didn't matter (damned dealer did not paint the swing keel when the
boat was on the trailer...so beyond our sailing ineptitude we were
dragging around a 4 foot barnacle carrier...talk about slow!). 



But...43 years later I am still excited about sailing.


Is a  V-21 a Mac 26?   No.   Two different
animals.   But same idea.  We all gotta start
somewhere.   


David F. Risch

1981 40-2

(401) 419-4650 (cell)



 From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com

 Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 16:24:00 -0700

 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Two more boat reviews on the
horizon

 

 I work part time in the summer for a Macgregor dealer here on Ghost
Lake in Alberta. I set up all the new boats and bolt on all the extras.
(and fix them when they run them up the bank!)

 

 As Ken says, they really sell well.

 

 When I'm out on the lake in my CC 26, by far the most boats out
there with me are Macs. Mac owners may not know what they are doing, but
they are enjoying doing it!

 

 Wherever I go in the world, I see Macs - everywhere!

 Sure they're ugly; Sure they don't sail worth a s#%t; Sure they are
badly put together - but they have probably introduced more people to
sailing than CC's.

 ...and boy are Macgregor owners loyal. Lots upgrade to new
Macgregors - we often sell the same boat 2 or 3 times.

 However, you can't have boaty conversations with Mac owners. They
don't talk about outhauls or leech lines (unknown to them). They want to
talk about stainless steel BBQ's and cockpit tables.

 Not my idea of a boat, but if it gets people out on the water, how
bad can it be!

 

 Sam Salter

 CC 26 Liquorice

 Ghost Lake Alberta.

 (I'm off to the BVI's on the 19th.. 6 guys, 52 foot, brand new
Jenneau, sailing and drinking!)

 

 On 2013-01-03, at 4:04 PM, Graham Collins
cnclistforw...@hotmail.com wrote:

 

  So does heroin. Doesn't make it something to aspire to or
respect...

  

  Graham Collins

  Secret Plans

  CC 35-III #11

  

  

  Ken Heaton wrote:

  The Mac 26X does one thing really well. It sells.

  

  Ken H.

  

  

  On 3 January 2013 16:05, Frederick G Street
f...@postaudio.net mailto:f...@postaudio.net wrote:

  

  Richard -- it's not so much the MacGregor line that I take
issue

  with; it's the 26X in particular. It seems like an attempt
to do

  many things, with the result that it does none of them very
well…

  

  

Re: Stus-List Curtain Slides/Carriers

[Mark G]

If there is an RV (camper) store near you, try there.

- Original Message -
From: johnr...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tue, 11 Dec 2012 02:08:18 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List Curtain Slides/Carriers

This is a pretty mundane request, but do any of you have suggestions re getting 
the slides or carriers for cabin window curtains in a CC 29-2?

John McLaughlinFalcon___
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Re: Stus-List Cutting my keel

[Mark G]

One of the few remaining lead foundries is right in Providence, RI: 
http://www.ibroomfieldandson.net/

- Original Message -
From: Joseph Valle joseph.va...@vallegroup.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 21:46:43 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutting my keel

I own a CC 29' Mark II. I am contemplating cutting my keel about 14 inches
to accommodate a shallow mooring spot. Mars Metal from Canada makes a keel
bulb that will bolt to the remaining keel to make up for weight and righting
moment. Has anyone had experience with this?

Joseph R. Valle
Chairman  C.E.O.
The Valle Group, Inc.
70 East Falmouth Highway, Suite 3
East Falmouth, MA 02536
Phone 508-548-1450
Cell 508-566-3441
joseph.va...@vallegroup.com
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Persuasion
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 4:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fw: Photos needed

Anybody with a 37 would know.  For that matter anybody with a 35 would know 
also.


Mike
S/V Persuasion
CC 37 K/CB
Stormont Yacht Club
http://www.stormontyachtclub.ca/

-Original Message- 
From: Pete Shelquist
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 9:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Photos needed

I have a nice shot of a 37 I'll send in.  It's a better looking boat than
what's listed and they won't know the difference.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 7:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Photos needed

Folks, I do not know what version 35 they want -- they probably don't know
either.

If you are sending me a photo:
a) send it to s...@cncphotoalbum.com
b) images should be high-res, jpeg format and not thumbnail size.

I'll send them what I get.

Stu


-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 7:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Photos needed

Hi Stu
Which version 35, and to what email address?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11


Stu wrote:
 I have just received an email from BoatUS Publications:
 We are updating our online boat reviews and looking for a good photo
 of a CC 35, CC 99 and CC Landfall 38 sailboat, showing the whole
 boats well, preferably under sail. Would you be able to help me? We
 would give credit to the photographer of course.
 If you have any photos that qualify, send them to me and I'll send
 them to BoatUS after I gloat over them and paste a bunch on the Photo
 Album - after all it is a photo album.
 Stu



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Re: Stus-List missing sail track?

[Mark G]

Eric,

The track starts so high because the boat originally came with roller reefing.  
The luff of the main sail at the tack is cut back so that as the main sail is 
rolled about the boom, the bolt rope would roll in contiguous turns rather than 
pile up on itself.  This also requires the bolt rope at the luff to be free of 
the track well above the boom, which is why the track ends where it does.  What 
you describe as the reefing cringle is more likely the cringle for a 
cunningham.  Cunninghams are particularly critical with a roller reefing main 
sail because the tack fitting on the boom is well aft of the mast.

I went through all this a few years back when I converted from roller reefing 
to slab or jiffy reefing on my '73 CC 25.  I had my existing main sail 
modified.  The first couple years I had my boat, I did use the roller reefing a 
couple times.  From what I've seen looking at the gooseneck on various CC 25s, 
roller reefing disappeared
 around 1974-1975.  (Goosenecks on roller reefing boats contain a gearbox.)

Sail Power by Wallace Ross has the best explanation of roller reefing that 
I've seen.  (I can let you borrow my copy if you'd like!)  I'm surprised a sail 
maker wouldn't know what I describe above.  While roller reefing fell out of 
favor years ago, there are many old boats that still carry vestiges of it.

Mark

- Original Message -
From: Eric Frank efran...@mac.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sat, 17 Nov 2012 22:51:51 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List missing sail track?

When I was having measurements taken for a new mainsail, the sailmaker 
commented that the sail track on my 1972 CC 35 mk2 begins nearly a foot above 
the boom. The sail track is obviously cast into the aluminum mast, but has been 
machined away so it begins well above the boom.  I had always assumed that was 
normal, but the sailmaker commented that it made it more difficult to set a 
reef.  The cringle for the reef point at the tack does not go low enough to go 
over the hook at the forward end of the boom, so I always need to use a short 
length of line to make this connection.  If the sail track were lower, the 
slides on the sail would be lower so this connection could be made without the 
line.  The other nuisance of having all the track slides so high is that it is 
hard to reach all the way to the head of the sail to attach and detach the main 
halyard, and to pull the sail cover over the head of the sail.
Is it standard on CC's of this vintage to have the sail track start so high?  
Would it be OK just to leave the bottom 2 or 3 sail slides not in the track, so 
the furled sail would be lower and the reef point could be connected directly 
to the cunningham hook (is that the name of it?).  Or should I look into the 
possibility of having a short length of sail track machined and bolt it into 
the flat of the mast between the boom and the bottom of the existing track, 
leaving just enough room to feed the sail slides into the track when bending on 
the mainsail?
Suggestions welcome.
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
CC 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement then transom hung now gudgeons

[Mark G]

Mike,

I think the bushings came from McMaster-Carr or Grainger.

I was afraid that if I screwed this up, I either wouldn't get rid of the clunk, 
or the rudder hinge pin would bind in the gudgeons and make it difficult for me 
to turn the rudder.  Here's what I did, obviously overkill:

1) I have a spare set of used gudgeons (I think they're cast bronze, originally 
chrome plated?) that had the same problem.  I was having both sets modified at 
the same time.  I was careful to mark the gudgeons that were originally 
installed so I reinstalled the same ones.  I also marked the orientation in 
which they were installed (top/bottom), so I was sure to reinstall them the 
same way.
2) I brought the whole hinge setup to a local machine shop - the gudgeons, the 
hinge pin, the mating parts that mount to the rudder, etc.  That way they 
understood the function of the parts, and what I was trying to accomplish.  I 
also provided photos of the mounted rudder.  They mic'd everything up so I knew 
where I was starting, anyway.  I probably had about 1/8 slop, and no way (at 
that time) to determine the original diameter of the hole in the gudgeons.
3) They made some rough sketches, we agreed on the work, and I turned them 
loose on the job.
4) The machine shop used flanged bronze bushings.  I think they were about 1/8 
thick all around, which allowed them some material to remove.
5) They had to open up the hole in the gudgeons to make it round again, and 
also took some material off the top.  While you would think this weakens the 
gudgeon somewhat, you are actually restoring the strength of the hinge by 
tightening up the fit of the hinge pin to the gudgeon.
6) They turned down the outer diameter of the bushing to suit the hole in the 
gudgeon.  The bushing was pressed in with a slight interference fit.  The 
flange was oriented according to the worn surface on the original gudgeon.
7) They bored out the hole in the bushing to suit the pin, and they faced off 
the bushing flange.  I think we agreed that the bushings would be bored out to 
provide 0.030 or 0.060 clearance with the hinge pin.  I guessed that this would 
get rid of the clunk but ensure the rudder wouldn't bind.
8) I reassembled it all on the boat, without any sealant, to see how much 
movement I had in the rudder and ensure nothing was binding.  Satisfied, I then 
reassembled everything with sealant, elastic stop nuts, etc.  The hinge pin was 
installed the whole time to ensure the gudgeons stayed aligned.

Before I took this on last winter, I got the input of several listers who did 
this job before me.  Some used plastic bushings, etc.  You can probably find 
the thread in the archives.

One last thing: the boat I just salvaged had no play at all between the hinge 
pin and the gudgeons.  So if I were to mic up the holes in those gudgeons, that 
would tell what the factory fit was.

Mark

- Original Message -
From: Mike Hoyt mike.h...@impgroup.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tue, 13 Nov 2012 13:19:12 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung


MArk Where did you get the 
sleeves for this?
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
G
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:33 AM
To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder 
Re-build/replacement now transom hung


Rick,

With a quick look I can't see any evidence of those 
holes, but they are probably covered over with crud and bottom paint.  I 
did notice the bottom half is not entirely hollow.  There are a couple 
strips of plywood stacked on top of each other running down the middle of the 
rudder, primary purpose probably to adhere the halves together.  The 
salvage rudder seems to want to split at the seam, but of course, it underwent 
some serious abuse which is why it's broken in half.

Those holes would 
allow the rudder the drain when the boat is hauled, but they would also allow 
it 
to fill with water when the boat is launched.  That would take care of the 
buoyancy issue.  

When I sleeved the gudgeons last year, I used 
flanged bushings.  I was trying to figure out by looking at the wear 
pattern which gudgeon actually supports the weight of the rudder, the single 
upper or the lower double.  There was some wear on most of the faces.  
I think the upper gudgeon supports my rudder when the boat is out of the water, 
but in the water, the rudder floats a bit and may be restrained by the lower 
double gudgeon.  The fact that the rudder floats, combined with the slop in 
the gudgeons, is what lead to the constant clunking.  With the sleeved 
gudgeons, the clunk is gone.  (Now if I can just restrain that wire inside 
the mast, I might be able to sleep on my boat!)

Mark


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Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung

[Mark G]

Yah, I looked at 30 boats, but some of the earlier ones were Hunters and 
Catalinas.  Only the last 5 or so were CC 25s.

I wouldn't have renamed my boat but it was Peas and Rice or Peas and 
Carrots at the time.  I was all set to name her Waterslug, submarine lingo for 
shooting a blank.  Then, at an 80th birthday party for my uncle, I got talking 
with one of his Marine Corp buddies who served with him in the Aleutians in 
WW2.  The conversation quickly turned to the weather they experienced, the 
frequent Williwaws.  So Williwaw stuck.  Most people associate Williwaw with 
Joshua Slocum.  While cleaning up the topsides to put on the new name, after 
the renaming ceremony of course, I saw the outlines of two previous names: 
Puffin, a great name, but too common IMHO, and Cachamay, also a great name, and 
I had to google it to find out what it was (a national park in South America).  
I've never seen another Cachamay, but have since seen a couple other Williwaws.

I looked at a yellow CC 27 named Lemon Pi at a donated boat auction a couple 
years back.  Some guy bought it for next to nothing and sailed it back to Nova 
Scotia, I think.

- Original Message -
From: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Mon, 12 Nov 2012 16:30:40 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung

You only looked at 30 boats? What a piker. I dragged my then girlfriend around 
marinas and yards in PA, NJ, and Chesapeake Bay at least one weekend a month 
for a year and a half before I found Belle. I was actually going to Annapolis 
to decide which of 3 Columbia 26s I was going to buy when I noticed an ad for a 
CC 25 named Pi (think Math teacher and Greek symbol) in the Annapolis Capital, 
and decided to stop for a look while enroute. What can I say, I fell in love 
with the boat that morning and bought her over the phone. I’ve owned Bell for 
over 18 years now, and every time – EVERY TIME! – I go forward for the first 
time I whack my head on that verdammte cross beam under the mast step and say 
to myself “CRAP, I need to duck.”. Either I’m a slow learner or the repeated 
impacts are causing selective memory loss.  Rick BrassWashington, NC   From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark G
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung 

The support under the mast in the cabin is very robust on the 25 Mk1.  (Not 
only has mine resisted the weight of the mast and the tension on the shrouds 
all these years, but it has withstood the repeated impact of my forehead.) .


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Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung

[Mark G]

Rick,

With a quick look I can't see any evidence of those holes, but they are 
probably covered over with crud and bottom paint.  I did notice the bottom half 
is not entirely hollow.  There are a couple strips of plywood stacked on top of 
each other running down the middle of the rudder, primary purpose probably to 
adhere the halves together.  The salvage rudder seems to want to split at the 
seam, but of course, it underwent some serious abuse which is why it's broken 
in half.

Those holes would allow the rudder the drain when the boat is hauled, but they 
would also allow it to fill with water when the boat is launched.  That would 
take care of the buoyancy issue.  

When I sleeved the gudgeons last year, I used flanged bushings.  I was trying 
to figure out by looking at the wear pattern which gudgeon actually supports 
the weight of the rudder, the single upper or the lower double.  There was some 
wear on most of the faces.  I think the upper gudgeon supports my rudder when 
the boat is out of the water, but in the water, the rudder floats a bit and may 
be restrained by the lower double gudgeon.  The fact that the rudder floats, 
combined with the slop in the gudgeons, is what lead to the constant clunking.  
With the sleeved gudgeons, the clunk is gone.  (Now if I can just restrain that 
wire inside the mast, I might be able to sleep on my boat!)

Mark

- Original Message -
From: Rick Taillieu rtaill...@eastlink.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 21:19:59 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung

Hi Mark, The 25’s fibreglass rudder is made in 2 halves bonded together.There 
is wood laminated in the upper part, ending about 1-1½” below the lower gudgeon 
plate, below that it’s hollow.There is a small hole right at the base of the 
“L” where the rudder extends forward and one at the very bottom of the 
blade.This lets the water drain out when the boat is hauled and it’s very 
important to keep them open especially if you are in an area that freezes.The 
24’s rudder might be made in the same way, I’m not sure. I might be interested 
in a few things off your salvage boat, contact me off list and we’ll talk. 
Cheers  Rick TaillieuNemesis'75 CC 25  #371Shearwater Yacht ClubHalifax, NS.   
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark G
Sent: November-11-12 4:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung 
The transom-hung rudders are a different discussion altogether, but I learned 
something recently and want to add it to the collective knowledge of the list.

The earlier of the 25 Mk1's came from the factory with laminated wood rudders, 
which is what my '73 hull #79 has.  (Check out some of my previous posts about 
trying to maintain / preserve it.)

I recently salvaged '74 25 hull #301.  What follows is all based on the 
assumption that this boat had its original rudder.  This later rudder 
configuration is probably common to the 24, later 25 Mk1 and 25 Mk2.  27 Mk5 
could be the same, don't know.  After the owner cut off the keel, he removed 
the stands, dropped the boat on its hull, and broke the rudder approximately in 
half.  (I advised him that the used rudder was probably worth at least what he 
got for the lead keel, $0.60/lb, ~1800 lbs.)  

I was surprised to see that the salvaged fiberglass rudder is hollow.  (Hollow 
as in you can stick a broom handle in it and freely move it back and forth.)  
The fiberglass is only about 1/4 thick.  I guess I was expecting thicker 
fiberglass, or foam filled, something like that.  The top half of the rudder is 
hollow to a point, and then the upper third or so appears to be solid.  My 
guess is that it's a laminated wood stub, either painted or glassed over.   

This helps to explain this thread I came across recently about how much the 25 
rudder can flex:

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=113193

Without a doubt, this rudder is lighter than my laminated wood rudder.  (I've 
had my rudder off 3 out of 6 years I've owned my boat.  I've carried it around 
a lot!)  I also find this surprising, since you'd think the weight of a 
transom-hung rudder would be critical to the balance of the boat.

By the way, I took the pieces of broken rudder, thinking they might be useful 
to someone trying to build a mold, etc.  Contact me off list if you're 
interested.  Yours for the cost of shipping, might be cheaper to ship the two 
pieces separately!

Mark
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung

[Mark G]

Rick,

Now that I think about it a little more - how would you detect if the rudder 
was flexing?

If I had to guess, I think the owner on the Sailing Anarchy thread has a Mk2.

I know that the advertising literature for the 25 Mk2 said that the rudder 
design was new.

The support under the mast in the cabin is very robust on the 25 Mk1.  (Not 
only has mine resisted the weight of the mast and the tension on the shrouds 
all these years, but it has withstood the repeated impact of my forehead.)  The 
design is not the same on the Mk2.  Supposedly, there was a factory recall or 
tech bulletin to the dealers to beef up the mast support for the Mk2.  Most of 
the Mk2's I looked at before I bought my Mk1 had something going on under the 
mast.  That was one reason I steered clear of them, even though I prefer a lot 
of the other features of the Mk2 - the traveler location, etc.

Agree the 25 Mk1 is built like a tank.  Before I settled on it, I looked at 
almost every boat made in significant numbers in that size range.  (I looked at 
30 boats before I bought mine!)  The Mk1 is better built than most of them.  
The only think I've encountered that left me shaking my head is how they cut 
the holes for the chainplates through the core and did nothing to seal it.

Several of the 25 Mk1's I looked at had a broken mast step casting at the 
location of that pin, probably because of what you describe.  My boat has the 
old-style mast step similar to what is used on the CC 27.  It's just an 
aluminum channel section.

I had the gudgeons sleeved last year.

Mark

- Original Message -
From: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sun, 11 Nov 2012 23:29:06 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung

I was about to say exactly what Rick said, based on 18 years of experience with 
my 25 mk1. The rudder for the MK2 might be different, but I have my doubts. I 
read the Sailing Anarchy thread, and I have to comment that the only 
contributor who knew anything about the CC 25 was the Owner – and he didn’t 
seem to know much.  He comments about the weaknesses of the boat, for example 
commenting on the need to replace the mast step. I actually bent the jib crane 
at my old club in Philly when unstepping the mast – seems one of my helpers had 
neglected to pull the pin in the step and the jib crane was trying to pick the 
whole boat up by the sling around the mast. My 25 is built like a tank. Which 
is why it is so much heavier than a J/24. I once had a port/starboard collision 
when I was trying to duck a J/30. The damage to the J was more than twice what 
I paid for Belle (Heck, the teak toe rail was half the price I paid for the CC 
25.), and all the damage I had was some blue paint that I took off the gelcoat 
with a 3M scrubby pad. After 37 years, I have a little wiggle in my rudder. One 
of these days I need to get around to putting some bushings into the pintles 
and gudgeons to compensate for years of wear and herd use.. There is definitely 
no flex in the rudder itself.  Rick BrassImzadi -1976 CC 38 mk1la Belle Aurore 
-1975 CC 25 mk1Washington, NC   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Taillieu
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 4:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung Hi Mark, 
The 25’s fibreglass rudder is made in 2 halves bonded together.There is wood 
laminated in the upper part, ending about 1-1½” below the lower gudgeon plate, 
below that it’s hollow.There is a small hole right at the base of the “L” where 
the rudder extends forward and one at the very bottom of the blade.This lets 
the water drain out when the boat is hauled and it’s very important to keep 
them open especially if you are in an area that freezes.The 24’s rudder might 
be made in the same way, I’m not sure. I might be interested in a few things 
off your salvage boat, contact me off list and we’ll talk. Cheers  Rick 
TaillieuNemesis'75 CC 25  #371Shearwater Yacht ClubHalifax, NS.   From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark G
Sent: November-11-12 4:35 PM
To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung 
The transom-hung rudders are a different discussion altogether, but I learned 
something recently and want to add it to the collective knowledge of the list.

The earlier of the 25 Mk1's came from the factory with laminated wood rudders, 
which is what my '73 hull #79 has.  (Check out some of my previous posts about 
trying to maintain / preserve it.)

I recently salvaged '74 25 hull #301.  What follows is all based on the 
assumption that this boat had its original rudder.  This later rudder 
configuration is probably common to the 24, later 25 Mk1 and 25 Mk2.  27 Mk5 
could be the same, don't know.  After the owner cut off the keel, he removed 
the stands, dropped the boat on its hull, and broke

Re: Stus-List Heaving-to

[Mark G]

Great input all, thanks!

I was taught to heave-to on a J-24 in a basic keelboat class more than a decade 
ago.  Don't recall exactly what we were flying for a genoa at the time.  If I 
recall correctly, the basic procedure was to tack on a close reach, don't 
release the genoa sheet, let the main all the way out, put the tiller all the 
way over toward the main.  And the instructor added, different boats are 
different, you may have to experiment a bit.  So that is basically where I 
started.  I assumed incorrectly that the main had to be all the way out.  I've 
always had the boom out beyond the toe rail, with the main luffing a bit.  Next 
season I'll play with the size of the genoa and the position of the main.  

This is really just an effort to improve my understanding and boathandling.  
Agree it's best to keep the genoa off the spreaders and the shrouds.  I've 
always furled it in until the clew was just forward of the shrouds and the 
sheets were lying against the PVC covers over the turnbuckles.

Mark

- Original Message -
From: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 19:40:28 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heaving-to

I heave-to with Belle fairly frequently to socialize, eat lunch, sunbathe, etc. 
She has a 155 headsail most of the time, and occasionally in higher winds a 110 
lapper.  To heave-to on starboard tack I start on port and sheet in the genoa 
tight as I turn into the wind. Boom is close to the centerline of the boat. 
Once the boat stalls and the genoa is back winded, the boat will start to fall 
off to starboard. Tiller goes as far to port as possible and gets lashed off. 
Traveler is moved up or down until the boat stops and oscillation is 
acceptable. Generally the end of the boom is about 1 to 2 feet below the 
centerline of the boat. I adjust the mainsheet and vang, and the genoa cars, as 
needed to spill wind out of the top of the sails depending on how hard the wind 
is blowing. In lighter winds the boat basically parks. I’ve done it a time or 
two in a brief squall, and the boat makes headway and leeway at around ½ knot. 
Practice in wind under 10 knots, it is pretty easy to do.  Rick BrassImzadi 
-1976 CC 38 mk1la Belle Aurore -1975 CC 25 mk1Washington, NC   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark G
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2012 1:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Heaving-to  
After 6 years of experimenting on an infrequent basis I was finally able to 
easily and repeatedly heave-to my 25 Mk1 this year.  I sail with a 135-140% 
Genoa on a furler.  On the day everything clicked it was furled to about 
100-110%.  Since then, I have made furling the Genoa to 100-110% the first step 
of heaving-to.  It makes sense to me that, since heaving-to is all about 
balancing the sails, sail area forward would be a significant factor.  But on a 
boat without a furler this can't be accomplished without a sail change, etc.  
So I'm thinking the same thing might be accomplished by positioning the main 
sail with the sheet or the traveler.  Can anybody weigh in on their experience, 
particularly with the 25 Mk1?

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Re: Stus-List deck hatch leak

[Mark G]

Rick,

I may take on the same project on my '73 25 Mk1 next spring.  According to AH 
what I have is the old style XR200, which is a 20 square hatch.  My existing 
hatch doesn't leak, not under the frame, not under the acrylic  But the acrylic 
is badly crazed and the latches (threaded knobs) are missing.  Replacement 
hardware is no longer available for this hatch, and I've had no luck at marine 
consignment shops after 5 years of looking.  I've jury-rigged some latches.  So 
I guess you could say this project is primarily to improve the appearance of 
the hatch.

I recently salvaged '74 25 Mk1 hull #301 and took the hatch among other things. 
 My experience was the same: screws came out easily, frame required some prying 
with a putty knife, sealant appeared to be butyl.  According to AH this is the 
newer style XR200.  As you said below the different generations of AH hatches 
don't use the same hardware, hinges or frame.  AH even said there is a 1/8 or 
1/4 difference in the overall size.

The hatch from the salvage boat is complete with all the hardware, but the 
acrylic is badly crazed.  On this hatch, the acrylic is screwed to the frame in 
8 places.  I assume this is a previous acrylic replacement.  There is also 
evidence it leaked under the acrylic as a previous owner applied lots of 
additional sealant.

I've got quotes from Select Plastics and Hammerhead Nautical to refurb the 
salvage hatch, or should I say, to replace the acrylic.  Has anyone attempted 
to reanodize or paint the frame?

What was your experience reinstalling the frame?  On the salvage boat the frame 
screws came out easily.  I suspect they were screwed directly into a soggy 
balsa core.  If it's the same on my boat, I'm thinking I may have to do a core 
repair before I can reinstall the hatch.  (I replaced the chainplates last year 
and that turned into a significant core repair.)  Did you have to do a core 
repair?  Did you fill the existing holes and drill new ones?  Is thru-bolting 
an option?  I'm concerned I may not get enough compression on the seal without 
thru-bolts.

If it wasn't for the missing hardware, I'd keep the existing hatch and replace 
the acrylic - either on the boat or by just removing the top of the hatch at 
the hinge

Mark

- Original Message -
From: Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sat, 10 Nov 2012 16:11:26 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List deck hatch leak

Imzadi had the original 27” square AH hatch on the foredeck. I Had bought a 
used hatch some time ago, and planned to refurb that hatch and install it on 
the existing frame (which did not leak). So my first question is why pull the 
frame if it isn’t leaking and you are planning to refurbish/reseal the lens in 
the hatch? For me, it turned out that there are older and newer style AH 
hatches and that the hinge arrangement is different enough that my refurbished 
hatch would not fit the existing frame. I took out all of the screws holding 
the hatch down and tried to lift the frame – no joy. The hatch frame was bedded 
with gray butyl (I scraped a small sample from under the edge to determine what 
the sealant was), but boy was it tenacious. Finally forced a putty knife 
between the frame and deck in several places to break the seal, and used a wide 
pry  bar as a lever the frame off the deck. My point is that the sealant could 
be butyl. And, of course, the second point is that when you reinstall the frame 
DO NOT use 5200.  Rick BrassWashington, NC
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Stus-List Heaving-to

[Mark G]

 
After 6 years of experimenting on an infrequent basis I was finally able to 
easily and repeatedly heave-to my 25 Mk1 this year.  I sail with a 135-140% 
Genoa on a furler.  On the day everything clicked it was furled to about 
100-110%.  Since then, I have made furling the Genoa to 100-110% the first step 
of heaving-to.  It makes sense to me that, since heaving-to is all about 
balancing the sails, sail area forward would be a significant factor.  But on a 
boat without a furler this can't be accomplished without a sail change, etc.  
So I'm thinking the same thing might be accomplished by positioning the main 
sail with the sheet or the traveler.  Can anybody weigh in on their experience, 
particularly with the 25 Mk1?

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Re: Stus-List Bounty sinking today

[Mark G]

New Bedford... the Harbor of Refuge... is the only harbor I know of on the 
South Coast that lost multiple boats during Irene.  There should have been an 
investigation into that one.  Unlike most harbors around here, that is a 
commercial harbor with a large fishing fleet.  So you'd think the harbor would 
be run by professionals who'd ensure boats were properly anchored and on 
correctly sized moorings.  Not to mention the multi-million dollar hurricane 
barrier built in the 1960's.  We'll see what happens this time around.

My 25 road out Irene on it's mooring in Mattapoisett.  Was nearly hit by a Cape 
Dory 28 on it's way to the beach.  The Cape Dory hit a larger target instead... 
a Catalina 36.  Other than that near miss my boat was OK.  Not saying I'd take 
that chance again, though.

Mark

- Original Message -
From: Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 18:46:23 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bounty sinking today


New 
Bedford showed its worth during Irene last year. All 
the larger boats that chose to moor there were smashed up, including one 
belonging to a friend of mine. He is 
very sorry he didn't just stay at Marths's Vineyard. Steve 
ThomasCC27 MKIIIPort 
Stanley, ON  -Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: 
Monday, October 29, 2012 2:36 PM
To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bounty sinking 
today

There are at least two harbors of refuge reasonably close to New London - 
Point Judith and New Bedford

Jonathan
On Oct 29, 2012, at 13:30, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net 
wrote:

New London 
  would not be a safe haven either.  But Bermuda or Azores or Spain would 
  have been a nice safe place before heading to Florida.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 
  34R
New Gretna, NJ
From: Colin Kilgour charliekilo...@gmail.com
To: 
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: 
  Monday, October 29, 2012 11:27:38 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 
  Bounty sinking today

The storm was already hurricane strength and 
  heading their way BEFORE they left New London.

This is their Facebook 
  post from Oct 25, the day they left.

Bounty has departed New 
  London CT...Next Port of Call...St. Petersburg, Florida.
Bounty will be 
  sailing due East out to sea before heading South to avoid the brunt of 
  Hurricane Sandy.

I'm reluctant to question the captain 
  on the boat, but I do have quite a bit of bluewater experience in that part 
of 
  the ocean.  When there's already a named storm on the map, why the hell 
  are you putting to see and heading right into 
  it?

Cheers,
Colin


On Mon, Oct 29, 2012 at 10:40 AM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:
Can't believe a ship like 
Bounty would get caught in a hurricane, but apparently she was reported 
today sinking and abandoned off Hatteras and USCG rescued 14, two still 
missing?

http://www2.wnct.com/news/2012/oct/29/7/coast-guard-rescue-underway-hatteras-ar-2734769/

Chuck
Resolute
1990 
CC 34R
New Gretna, 
NJ

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Re: Stus-List What CC do you have

[Mark G]

I've seen my older posts to this list when I included my full name, location, 
boat model and hull number come up in Google searches.  That's why I no longer 
do it.

Mark

- Original Message -
From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 16:33:55 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List What CC do you have

Alex and others

I don't know if it violates any rules or what others may feel but I really
like it when folks sign their emails to this list and include boat name,
year and model and also location or yacht club.  Lots are already doing it
and hopefully more others will too...helps with getting to know people who
you may never meet and its nice to know where folks do their sailing...like
I didn't know until I read Chuck's post today that folks swim in the ocean
well into October in Atlantic City...I figure it's pretty busy on the water
around where he is sailing

thanks 

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia
Sent: September 12, 2012 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Reverse Flow on Transom Bilge Outflow (Gary Russell)

Thanks Gary and good to hear from you again!  I will definitely do that, the
exhaust already does that and someone told me I should put one of those
vacuum breaks on it, so that is why I thought about it.

My 6 year deck restoration project is slowly coming to an end

ALEX GIANNELIA

Phone (416) 203-9858
Fax   (416) 203-9843
Cell   (416) 529-0070

email: a...@airsensing.com
WEB: www.airsensing.com




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