Stus-List Re: C Custom 52

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

I don't see a photo Is this a C 110 or a custom 52??

On Mon, Feb 5, 2024, 5:41 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is it still alive that boat
>
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 5, 2024 at 11:41 AM tjkoller--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>> I crewed on a custom C 52 in 1984 and 1986 owned by Ted Reese from
>> Michigan City, Indiana . We raced the Chicago to Mackinac Island Race on
>> Lake Michigan and won in 1984. It was a beautiful boat with a crew of 14. I
>> thought people might like to see a picture of the boat.
>>
>>
>>
>> Terry
>>
>>
>>
>> Terrence Koller
>>
>> Coyote
>>
>> C 110 Hull #52
>>
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C owners need information

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Hi Dan, not sure if this helps but..some time ago after the factory closed,  South Shore Yachts in Toronto collected most of the boat files including something called a "build file".This file was specific to a single boat and was filed by the hull number.They made these files available to owners for $35-50.I have the one for my 38MKIIC and it is about 50 sheets long and details the build including drawings and, in my case, a 2 year later rework of the floor because of "flexing"?I think Rob Maclachlan finally transferred the remaining documents to the Marine Museum (I'm not sure of the exact name, but I do know that some listers have had positive corresoondence with them).Hopefully, someone here can fill in the missing info to contact them.Good luckRon C.Impromptu C 38MKII, #125, '77On Jun 25, 2022 6:47 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:Hi all,Just sending a call out to only C owners who may have any records showing if their boats were built in Ontario or at the factory in Rhode Island? Any kind of builders plaque, builders certificate, an original receipt or even contact info for someone who has archives from when the factories closed down? (I know that's a long shot)Thanks so much!Dan CormierC BreakaweighHalifax NS / Florida

Stus-List Re: 37+ Polars

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Hi Rob, Not free, but Google ORR-EZ VALID LIST. This boat list will have your 37+.You search for your boat; in the left margin is a number, clicking on that will produce the ORR-EZ rating certificate.newer alternative to PHRF.ORR-EZ will also have a link to a new "performance package" which contains all the information you're looking fortables, charts, and an excellent set of instructions.Like I said, not free.$150.The real trick is to get the crew trained to use themGood luckRon C.ImpromtuC 38MKIIC. '77On Jun 16, 2022 7:43 AM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  wrote:Thanks Ken and an excellent reference for all things C 37/40 -RobSent from my iPhoneOn Jun 15, 2022, at 11:53 PM, Ken Heaton  wrote:Hi Rob,See page 35 of the C 37+ Owners Manual (77 pages with illustrations) for a Polar Diagram (not a table, sorry). There is a link to a downloadable copy of the C 37+ Owners Manual here: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_25.htmlKen HeatonS/V Salazar - Can 54955C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67Cape Breton Island, Nova ScotiaC 37/40 XL SalazarOn Wed, 15 Jun 2022 at 14:50, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  wrote:Anyone have the polars in a table format?

Thanks
Rob


Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Andrew, give Hatchmasters in Norwalk,  CT. a call.It's been a few years but they have the parts and rebuilt my A hatch nicely. Ron C.Impromptu38MKII, '77On Feb 12, 2022 9:01 PM, andrew macLean via CnC-List  wrote:
Atkins and Hoyle were really marvellous helping me find parts for the nearly 50 year old hatch on our 1974 30mk1. I’d start by calling them. 



Andrew MacLean

C 30-1

Gulf Islands BC Canada



> On Feb 12, 2022, at 10:51, Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:

> 

> 

> The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even comes close to what is already there.

> 

> regards,

> Bob Mann

> Mystic

> Detroit
On Feb 12, 2022 9:01 PM, andrew macLean via CnC-List  wrote:
Atkins and Hoyle were really marvellous helping me find parts for the nearly 50 year old hatch on our 1974 30mk1. I’d start by calling them. 



Andrew MacLean

C 30-1

Gulf Islands BC Canada



> On Feb 12, 2022, at 10:51, Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:

> 

> 

> The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even comes close to what is already there.

> 

> regards,

> Bob Mann

> Mystic

> Detroit
On Feb 12, 2022 9:01 PM, andrew macLean via CnC-List  wrote:
Atkins and Hoyle were really marvellous helping me find parts for the nearly 50 year old hatch on our 1974 30mk1. I’d start by calling them. 

Andrew MacLean
C 30-1
Gulf Islands BC Canada

> On Feb 12, 2022, at 10:51, Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even comes close to what is already there.
> 
> regards,
> Bob Mann
> Mystic
> Detroit

Stus-List Re: Sydney Hobart Race

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis.sort of, I usually get interested when they get further along.incidentally,  do we know where Comanche went??Ron C.On Dec 26, 2021 5:20 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote:Anybody watching?https://rolexsydneyhobart.com/tracker/-- Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Garboard

[RON CASCIATO via CnC-List]

Agreed, we did this on Impromptu almost 7-8 years ago. We drilled the hole a quarter inch below the floor of the bilge...FROM THE OUTSIDE!!!I think the diameter of the threaded piece is 1", I took it to Home Depot and found a male adapter that fitand pieced a 6" piece of PVC with a 45 degree angled endBilge drains dry and no water running down the keel.The drain unscrews out and the plug sits just under the hull surface.we swipe it with a dollop of Bondo and bottom paint.End of season, we just pick out the 1" circle of Bondo and screw the PVC drain back in.An easy DYI projectRon Casciato ImpromptuC 38 MKII..'77On Nov 22, 2021 4:50 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List  wrote:
Finally Did this 2 years ago..best thing ever did for the boat.  Look in archives, there is recent thread with good ideas Bill Walker





On Monday, November 22, 2021, 09:26:16 AM EST, Tom Sancton via CnC-List  wrote:



Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this? Looking at leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat through the mast

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rescue at sea.

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Would you have made that trip; without an AIS device?  I suspect that the boat 
is easy to find.

 

From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, July 1, 2021 12:37 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Randal Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Rescue at sea.

 

So I assume S/V Jenny is adrift somewhere in the North Atlantic?  It was tough 
to see her hull and spreaders banging into that tanker.  I wonder what will 
become of the boat - how long it can stay afloat, where it will end up.

 

I guess eventually the guy would have run out of water and provisions.

 

Cheers,

Randy





On Jun 30, 2021, at 12:46 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

We left Virginia 3 days after this guy!  

 

Bermuda requires a covid travel authorization and test, but I'm shocked they 
refused entry.  However, they are Covid-paranoid, as almost every case they 
have seen has been from a foreign traveler.

I know another sailor who was permitted entry to make repairs on his way to 
Puerto Rico this winter.

 

Wonder what the rest of the story is.

 

Joel

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 2:38 PM Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Wow. 

Refused entry to the harbour. 

Not the Bermuda I remember. 

Steve Thomas

-- Original Message --
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: dave.god...@me.com  
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2021 1:20 PM
Subject: Stus-List Rescue at sea.

I’m posting this thread because there may those amongst the list that will find 
this interesting.

 

This post is somewhat C related because the subject of the video upgraded his 
boat near mine. He just did his upgrades with much more alacrity.

 

Kim is an acquaintance of mine, lives in the same town and has attended more 
than one of our annual Sock Burning Parties. I’ve assisted him with some of his 
projects. Prior to his setting sail for Bermuda, I worked along with another 
very experience offshore sailor (in the yard repainting his Valiant 42 with 
triple spreader carbon rig) to get him prepped and sorted away. The Valiant 
owner leant Kim his life raft. Having raced to Bermuda in the past Kim was keen 
for any insights that I could impart. I told him to stay away from the Swizzle 
Inn rum swizzles and take the round-abouts in a clock-wise direction...

 

I don’t have any insights or knowledge of events other than what is portrayed 
in the video and I’m not going to speculate. 

 

This voyage was a long-term dream of Kim’s. His boat is a mid-to-late 80’s 
Jeanneau, around 35 feet.

 

Rescue at Sea  

 

Regards,

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA

 



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu




 

-- 

Joel 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast Base Blocks

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Also a big Garhauer fanI have their blocks on shackles like David, lines
led to deck organizers on each side and then back to the cockpit through
sheet stoppers before the winches on the cabin roof.  Those lines are always
under some tension and hold the blocks up nicely. 

 

This set up is a much better racing plan and keeps crew off the deck and
foredeck most of the time.  

 

3 jib halyards, 1 main halyard, 1 ASYM tack line (led from the bow), 1
outhaul, and 1 reef line, and 1 Garhauer Rigid vang line.

 

All lines run into the cabin through two flush Lewmar opening ports on the
bulkhead.  Replaced the instruments with the ports and it keeps the lines
out of the cockpit nicely as well.

 

All of the original  winches have been removed and deck faired smooth. 

 

Hard to beat Garhauer for quality and price.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC  '77

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2021 9:18 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast Base Blocks

 

I also have all Garhauer, but on shackles attached to the perforated /collar
base.  Dave

 

https://www.garhauermarine.com/blocks/single-blocks/single-blocks-with-shack
le.html

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Mar 19, 2021, at 8:49 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Touche' has Garhauer half moon blocks attached to the mast:

 

https://www.garhauermarine.com/mast-boom/mast-blocks/half-moon-block-hm-1a-u
s.html

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsdTZpUEFRcjZ1SEE/view?usp=sharin
g

 

Attaching the blocks to the mast assures the load is carried by the mast,
not the deck.

 

  -- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Mar 19, 2021 at 7:39 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello Again,

 

So, I'm considering replacing all the blocks for the mast base.  I currently
have 3 for halyards, 1 for mainsheet, 1 for boom furling line and 1 for
center board.

 

I'm was considering Schafer stainless because they look great but, I'm now
thinking, some kind of plastics would be better for when they fall against
the new paint.

 

I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations about brands, quality vs
cost, etc...  

 

 

Thanks again,

Danny

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
Stu




 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

HI Rod¨ There is a Flex-O-Fold specified for whatever Yanmar Sail drive
there is, I assume that they also cover Volvo.  I dealt with their rep in
Marblehead Mass.  Their current ad says that they fit all saildrive models.
The price seems to fall between $1295 - $1695 depending on diameter …….13”
to 18”..

 

Ron C.

 

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 12:02 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 40

 

I Have a C 99 with the standard Volvo Penta saildrive.  Curious about the
Flex-O-Fold.  I had a max prop on my last boat and loved it.  Was the
Flex-O-Fold a direct fit for the sail drive and what was the approx. cost?

 

Thanks Rod 

 

From: Ron Casciato via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: March-18-21 12:32 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Ron Casciato mailto:rjcasci...@comcast.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 40

 

Good Morning Joe:  a suggestion while you are compiling a list of costs and
differences.  Please include the estimate for replacement of the engine with
a Yanmar Saildrive.  I did that on my 38MKII almost 15 years ago on the
recommendation of Rob Ball, and it has worked flawlessly and needs much less
in service.  I used the Yanmar 3YM30 with the SD20 Saildrive, and it comes
with the mounting sled that you just glass into the bottom of the boat.  The
sail drive works like an outboard, and other than regularly changing out the
engine oil, that lower unit gets changed every few years.  I installed a
Flex-O-Fold 2 blade prop and this boat not only goes faster than the old
Volvo with the 2 blade  Martec  but it backs down almost dead straight.  The
bonus is that the Yanmar weighs almost 100lbs less than the Volvo did. 

 

My installation was just short of 10K, and there’s no more shaft, shaft
seal, etc.   

Just a thought before you commit to either one.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu C 38MKIIC

Mass.

 

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 10:59 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> 
Subject: Stus-List C 40

 

Would buying a C 40 with an original engine be a good idea in 2021? 

We are running some numbers here and it is basically a choice between
upgrading and replacing. Coquina is 48 years old now and it is time to do
some $$$ upgrades or buy another boat with much of the work done. We found a
used C 40 that looks gorgeous below, the interior beats most used boats of
that era. She seems in good shape, but the engine is original with 3,000+
hours. An Atomic 4 per the manual should be rebuilt at 3,000 hours if FWC, a
raw water cooled version would be very lucky to get that far in salt water.
The Yanmar is FWC. I frequently hear that diesels can last 10,000 hours, but
then again a significant number of boats from that era are for sale with new
engines.

Also re the rod rigging – the mast is out for the winter. With the rigging
easily accessed, what would the cost be of a rigging inspection to assure
that the rod is still good.

Thanks!

 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Good Morning Joe:  a suggestion while you are compiling a list of costs and
differences.  Please include the estimate for replacement of the engine with
a Yanmar Saildrive.  I did that on my 38MKII almost 15 years ago on the
recommendation of Rob Ball, and it has worked flawlessly and needs much less
in service.  I used the Yanmar 3YM30 with the SD20 Saildrive, and it comes
with the mounting sled that you just glass into the bottom of the boat.  The
sail drive works like an outboard, and other than regularly changing out the
engine oil, that lower unit gets changed every few years.  I installed a
Flex-O-Fold 2 blade prop and this boat not only goes faster than the old
Volvo with the 2 blade  Martec  but it backs down almost dead straight.  The
bonus is that the Yanmar weighs almost 100lbs less than the Volvo did. 

 

My installation was just short of 10K, and there's no more shaft, shaft
seal, etc.   

Just a thought before you commit to either one.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu C 38MKIIC

Mass.

 

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 10:59 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List C 40

 

Would buying a C 40 with an original engine be a good idea in 2021? 

We are running some numbers here and it is basically a choice between
upgrading and replacing. Coquina is 48 years old now and it is time to do
some $$$ upgrades or buy another boat with much of the work done. We found a
used C 40 that looks gorgeous below, the interior beats most used boats of
that era. She seems in good shape, but the engine is original with 3,000+
hours. An Atomic 4 per the manual should be rebuilt at 3,000 hours if FWC, a
raw water cooled version would be very lucky to get that far in salt water.
The Yanmar is FWC. I frequently hear that diesels can last 10,000 hours, but
then again a significant number of boats from that era are for sale with new
engines.

Also re the rod rigging - the mast is out for the winter. With the rigging
easily accessed, what would the cost be of a rigging inspection to assure
that the rod is still good.

Thanks!

 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement [now mast rebuild]

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Josh, Great Jobmy next question is what was the process for measuring and 
procuring the replacement rod materials?  Did the Yard do it, or a rigger in 
teharea, or other?  

 

Thanks,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

38MKIIC  ‘77

 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 10:46 AM
Cc: Stus-List ; Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement [now 
mast rebuild]

 

The yard used awlgrip 2000, pearl gray if I recall correctly.  Stripped all 
hardware and wiring, welded shut vestigial holes, ground them flat and then 
primed and painted.  Re-wired, refitted, replaced all rod rigging.

 

Here is the link to the whole project.

  
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1eSqX7wZP1r77hD84wDmGAQSI0Tqbn9xm

 

I pretty sure the next question is going to be "how much?"

 

~1k for each rod and hardware.  I have 4 shrouds on each side plus head and 
back.  10 total 

 

~3k for the paint job alone

 

All said and done it came to roughly 20k

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 10:19 David Swensen mailto:ka123dswense...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Josh, Lets talk about your mast and spreaders. What did you use to paint them? 
They look great.

 

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:54 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I replaced my Aqua Signal with the marine beam.  Perfect replacement fit.  No 
problem.  Highly recommend.  I also did Aqua Signal LEDs on the spreaders.  
Very low profile and they work phenomenally - almost too bright!

 

https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CdFzOH89I3fwlZeumTcWlLxQGST9Mn_S/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gIzwa9aDe-08QwoXbRkiSKvJpeaHpOkU/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQiyoFpaXQ5qMJ82CfCZY1GUoUKmx-MM/view?usp=drivesdk

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9XMVAymHLr3240v5wFePlXiVGKJG6VS/view?usp=drivesdk

 

 

All the best, 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 08:55 Danny Haughey via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello all,

 

I need to replace my masthead (steaming)/Deck Light.  The existing Aqua Signal 
light doesn't impress me as the deck light lens fell off at some point and the 
deck light didn't work.  So, Staying away from Aqua Signal.

 

I've been looking and these light range in price from around $100 all the way 
up to well over $500.  I've seem Marine Beam, with good reviews, at about $125 
and the Signal Mate, with good reviews at about $450.

 

I don't want to spend unnecessarily but, I'm leaning toward the Signal Mate.   
It was good reputation, been around a while and is supposed to be well made.  
Of course the reviews on the Marine beam say they are well made.  There are 
plenty of bad reviews about the aqua signal.  

 

I was hoping some of you could offer some experiences and advise.

 

Thanks,

Danny

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

I have two of these on my 38MKII for over 12 years.  I use them for spring 
lines and a central docking line……….never an issue with the toe rail on a 38.  
Since the toe rail does have a rolled top, I simply made a couple of aluminum 
spacers from bar stock and slipped them below the rolled top and drilled for 
the bolt.  

 

They work great.

 

Ron C

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC ‘77

 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2021 3:32 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

 

This maybe?

 

https://www.internationalmarineservice.com/C-Sherman-Johnson-Toe-Rail-Folding-Cleat-p/cs-48-510.htm

 

They used to make bales that bolted to the rail too. But I can’t seem to find 
then anywhere anymore.   I have 3 on each side.  2 for fenders and 1 between 
the rigging and the head stay that I use for my preventer.

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 





On Mar 9, 2021, at 11:28 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a solution 
for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline placement. I’m 
currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which seems strong, but I’d 
like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail. Haven’t seen anything in the 
catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a soft shackle through a rail hole 
might be a good fix. Given the general opinion that midship cleating is handy, 
I’m curious what you use.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: History help.....

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Ted, when did you acquire the boat?  In the old days…….15 years ago, you could 
have found the complete build file at South Shore Yachts in Toronto, many of us 
did that just to keep the history of our boats intact.  After around that date, 
the remaining files were transferred to a Nautical archive museum also sign 
Canada  (someone on this list knows the exact name) and subsequent efforts to 
obtain the files has met with varied success.  Still worth a try.  

 

On the documentation topic, my boat (a1977 C 38MKII) was left unrenewed for 
almost 15 years prior to my purchase.  The build file did have good 
documentation, but the mortgage still left uncleared, was for a Bank in Boston 
that had since gone out of business or probably merged with someone else.  
There is a Documentation service in Winchester MA , Marie is well known for her 
skill at documentation and after about 4 months, she was able to find where the 
bank went, get the mortgage cleared and then get the Coast Guard to reinstate 
my documentation……….

 

If you’re in that need, I wouldn’t hesitate to use them again.  

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

 

From: Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2020 3:06 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: ted_reli...@yahoo.com
Subject: Stus-List History help.

 

Does anyone have knowledge of the 1981 40-2 named Magic Dragon. She was ported 
in Ocean City N.J.   When we aquired her, she had been striped of all paperwork 
and loose equipment. Name had been rrmoved. What little we found out was had 
through USCG  Doc search. Number inactive.   

 

Thanks for any help History is interesting to know. 

 

Ted 

S/V Ten- Ten

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Thin plastic sheet for headliner access and other uses

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Rick:  We're both doping the same project this year.I'm in Florida for
the next couple of months and in Sarasota there is a place called Marine
Surplus.  They have rolls and rolls of fabric and coverings in clued inner
hull fabrics.they have a very good choice for our replacement
panelsand our Home Depot carries a "Door skin or 1/8"
plywood",

 

I'll check the price in the next week and let you know how much this choice
is. Of course you could try to use your own panels, but mine are ratty and I
plan on redoing the whole thing

 

More info to followremind me if you haven't' heard from me in a week or
two.

 

Best,

 

Ron

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 9:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thin plastic sheet for headliner access and other
uses

 

Dennis;

 

Have you only used it for flat panels like those under your winch mounts?
You mention "stiff" in your description. 

 

I'm looking for a somewhat flexible material that can be used to replace the
original Naugahyde covered luan panels in the headliner of my 38. These
panels all seem to have a slight curvature to them. So I'm wondering if this
might be a suitable material for the replacement panels?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 4:05 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Thin plastic sheet for headliner access and other uses

 

Following up on a recent thread about plastic sheet for headliner accesses
and other uses on our boats.

I used a material from mcmaster.com to replace the removable overhead panels
which access the winch bolts on Touche'.  The material is strong, stiff,
easy to work, looks nice and closely matches the original panels.  I've used
it in several other applications as well.  It is smooth on one side and has
a light texture, like Naugahyde, on the other.  Very nice material.

Anyway, having failed to find the invoice for the stuff in Touche's file and
being completely uncertain which of mcmaster's many choices it was, I sent a
small sample to mcmaster for identification.  They quickly responded with
this: 


Formable Chemical-Resistant Kydex Acrylic/PVC


http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K113

Good customer service, in my opinion.  They said they were returning my
sample.  Sheesh!  It was less than 2x2 inches.  They could have tossed it.

 

I intend to order some more as I'm nearly out.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

I agree with Joelthey are easy to make using the L-36 website.just
Google soft shackle and you'll see lots of pictures and ideas.

 

We use them on Impromptu, a C 38MKIIC for all genoa sizesI'd never go
back to knots.  I think I just saw an article on Soft Shackles on the
Sailing World web site this week?? I'll see if I can find it again.

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu C 38MKIIC...'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 2:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft shackle

 

I followed the directions on L-36.com for a better soft shackle.  have not
used them with sheets, but there is very little of it to catch on anything.

 

Joel

 

On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 2:14 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
 wrote:

I don't know how they work in action on a boat. However, they can be made
relatively easily from single braid line (IIRC) using videos and
instructions from the web.

 

I came across several of the above as I searched the web for splicing an eye
loop in double braid line. Of course you may not 'get it' on the first or
second attempt but all you have lost is a bit of line and some time. It took
me 2 total failures before I 'got it', trying to splice and eye in a double
braid where the inner core provided all the strength (Class II splice).
Right now I am 3 for 5.

You might need a set of fids and a serious knife/scissors, etc., but if you
can't get out and sail anyway because of the weather, doing a little
'nautical weaving' indoors can be a nice diversion!

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

Greenville, NC

cenel...@aol.com

 

-Original Message-
From: John Russo via CnC-List 
To: CnC-List 
Cc: John Russo 
Sent: Wed, Feb 17, 2016 11:04 am
Subject: Stus-List Soft shackle

Is anyone using a soft shackle to attach the Jib clew to the sheet?  If so
what brand and any problems in operation like catching on shrouds.

 

John

Arpeggio

1984 C 32

NorwalkCT

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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List NAVPOD

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Look for the largest "o" ring you can find and stretch it around?

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Fell via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 2:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Stus-List NAVPOD

 

Here's a bit of a long shot:

 

I have an unused Navpod GP131 3-instrument (Raymarine ST60) pedestal guard
enclosure. However, I'm missing the gaskets that fit between the pod and the
pedestal guard, that incorporate the seal for the cable exit (hope that
makes sense). The Navpod guys, Ocean Equipment, aren't much help - they
don't stock gaskets for this discontinued product and they didn't respond to
the question as to whether or not another model has a compatible gasket (so
I'm thinking the answer is no). 

 

Does anyone out there have a set of gaskets sitting in their parts bin? Or
should I just make some up out of neoprene?

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

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Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

However, if “flipping” a boat was in fashion..compared to the one for sale 
in MA……….same vintage for $119K……….might be worth a project , maybe even a 
reality TV show………..

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

This is a horrible ad.  No information and not one decent picture of the boat.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ed 
vanderkruk via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2016 4:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: ed vanderkruk
Subject: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-other/cambridge/44-c-c-custom/1103688809

Not sure if this has been posted here already. Seems to be in Toronto but I 
don't know this boat.

45k Canadian $ ... 32k US?

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Autohelm hand bearing compass

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

HI Ted:  I’ll take it……….I’ll send my info to you offline.  Thanks,  Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ted Drossos 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 1:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ted Drossos 
Subject: Stus-List Autohelm hand bearing compass

 

I think that Ron C. was looking to replace his Autohelm hand bearing compass. 
They are great units. I have an extra one available for $75 USD if you're 
interested. Kept it as a spare on my other boat but that's for sale now so it 
won't be sold with the boat.   

 

Ted Drossos

C 29-2 H2OT (for sale)

C 110 Lady in Red

Long Island, NY  

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Re: Stus-List Refinish/repaint breaker panels?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Joel:

To get that panel looking new………will take some careful prep and then some art 
work for the labels……….you might check out Marine Surplus 
http://www.marinesurplusinc.comWe have one of their stores in Sarasota and 
they have all sorts of panels, etc.  you might get lucky and find one that 
would work for you………..new……….

 

Ron C.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 9:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Refinish/repaint breaker panels?

 

The black paint on the aluminum breaker panels looks its age.  has anyone 
either stripped to repainted theirs?  I need to redo the labels anyhow.


 

-- 

Joel 

35/3

The Office

Annapolis
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Mike, you’re right.the one in MA has been on the market for years………now 
priced at $97K while most others of that era are in the mid 60-75 range………

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/C%26C-44-Wing-Keel-8280/Braintree/MA/United-States#.VpUfTPkrLrc
  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

Zero is a relative number.

 

Making a profit of $4 on a flip is nice but -$4 is also a profit… just 
with negative numbers.  Kind of like the negative interest thing starting to go 
on…..

 

The one on YW is a beauty.  The one on kijiji is not even the same boat.  OK – 
maybe it could be the same model and year but one is a nivce boat and the other 
is a tired old scrap yard

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Casciato 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 11:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Ron Casciato
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

However, if “flipping” a boat was in fashion..compared to the one for sale 
in MA……….same vintage for $119K……….might be worth a project , maybe even a 
reality TV show………..

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com <mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

This is a horrible ad.  No information and not one decent picture of the boat.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ed 
vanderkruk via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2016 4:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: ed vanderkruk
Subject: Stus-List C 44 Custon

 

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-other/cambridge/44-c-c-custom/1103688809

Not sure if this has been posted here already. Seems to be in Toronto but I 
don't know this boat.

45k Canadian $ ... 32k US?

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto

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Stus-List New Topic: Autohelm hand held compass

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Happy New Year to the group:

 

Do any of you have one of the old Autohelm Personal Compasses that you'd
like to get rid of I'd like to replace the one I had that died last
season.

 

Thanks,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC..'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2016 3:12 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List VHF / AIS

 

"I bet 80% of boats have at least some 0183 gear still." 

I sure do, and I'm resistant to change to 2000.  I like the MFDs that
incorporate 0183 and 2000 and I think even bridge between the two.  0183
works, is open, and is more or less readable with a standard serial port.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

>
> On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 2:54 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
 wrote:
>>
>> It might be longer than you think, as NMEA2k certification is a long and
expensive process for the manufacturers. S-H may not want to mess with it.
>>
>> - Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>>> On Jan 8, 2016, at 1:49 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
 wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm guessing SH won't be long offering NMEA 2000 units.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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bottom of page at:
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>
>

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Re: Stus-List New beer can Genoa

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Jon:  How competitive do you want to be on Wednesday night?  Our B fleet is
very tough on Wednesdays ...they separate quickly in to those that
mainly cruise and sail for the fun of it during the week and those of us who
are much more serious..it dictates the type and fabric of the sail
you end up with.

Here in New England, I'm using a light #1 at 153% made of a
"composite/Mylar" laminate material.  It's a Bainbridge
material..made by a local sailmaker that also sails with me on
Wednesday.the cost 2 years ago was in the $3400 range discounted for
the fall boat show sale..

I'd be glad to refer you to him if you're interested he does ship all
over.we've been the #1 boat  in the fleet for 2 years...the sails do
a lot of the work.not an excuse, however, for a good helmsman. Which
he is. 

I'm the same age as well. Don't let our wife "pack you in" yet.. lots of
time left for  that 

Best,

Ron C.
C 38MKIIC '77

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Tasker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2015 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jon Tasker 
Subject: Stus-List New beer can Genoa

I need an affordable 155% Genoa for my 37 for Wednesday nights. North wants
$5000, Ullman wants $3140. At age 75, my wife the questions the necessity.
Anyone got any suggestions.
Jon Tasker 
C 37
Muskegon MI

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Why not simply cut the tracer string in place and tie another string to it and 
pull the original one out and measure it……?  That leaves you with a 
messenger string still in place and  the correct measurement

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:25 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole

 

Do you mean the spinnaker pole lift?

 

  _  

From: "Pamela & David via CnC-List"  >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "Pamela & David"  >
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 5:07:55 PM
Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker pole

 

Hello

 

Does anyone know the length of rope for the UPHAUL on a C?

 

I have a tracer string inplace on a recent purchase boat and are looking for a 
quick job to replace 


___

 

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Re: Stus-List Video of C 30 racing in Annapolis

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Ronthink of it as a way to get a good used one if they have a lot of
them out there.I think I'm generationally challenged to be able to sail
one...

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 4:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker
Subject: Re: Stus-List Video of C 30 racing in Annapolis

 

Imagine my disappointment, I was thinking of original C 30s.

Great video though and I hope they sell the hell out of them.  Can only help
get the name out there.

Ron

C 30-1

Wild Cheri

STL

 

 

  _  

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 9:48 AM
Subject: Stus-List Video of C 30 racing in Annapolis

 

The attached video was included in a post from a sailing TV website this
morning. I have to say I'm impressed to see so many C 30s on the line, and
the performance of the boats is impressive. Certainly not "us father's" C
And pretty athletic for this fat old man. But impressive none the less.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FxUDhhQQVo

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Removing and applying vinyl lettering

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

That article is in the latest issue of Sail Magazinenicely
done...Ron C.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2015 8:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing and applying vinyl lettering

40
Way gorgeouser than the 41.
Thanks, Joel.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Nov 17, 2015, at 19:21, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> Our own Andrew Burton has a  an article on how to do this, complete with
photos of his gorgeous C 41.
> 
> Joel
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Headliner

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Doug:

 

I guess no-one knows where to get the original materialand I have seen
"hull liner" material on the web somewhere. I'll start lookingnone of he
other options work for methere's enough wood on the inside, I don't want
to add more...

 

I would check  a company in Sarasota called Marine Surplusthey have a
web site, and have lots of new stuff that didn't get used up by the boat
builders or companies...I'll go over there tomorrow and check them out.

 

Good luck.

 

Ron C.

C 38MKII..'77

Impromptu

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Douglas
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 8:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Douglas
Subject: Stus-List Headliner

 

Hello: I have a 1986 MKIII 38-ft. One of the removable panels over the
galley (four or five screws) material needs replacing. I have pulled the
panel and removed the material. It cannot be save, it was ruined by the
previous owner trying to glue the edges back up as a quick fix. All the
others in the cabin are in great shape. Does anyone know where I can find a
match. It is cream to beige in color, as I am certain all of them are. I was
told it was a vinyl wall covering by a boat upholstering shop. I live on an
island in Washington state. I can take a ferry or bridge to the main land,
but it is normally an 3.5 round trip just over and back, without leaving the
ferry dock area. So I do most things via the internet.

Thanks for any help you may have.

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Re: Stus-List C Interior Wood Veneer - mid 80's

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

HI Mike:

 

I agree with your general impressioncruisers vs racers………..however, when my 
boat was listed in Marblehead in 97, it stated that the cosmetics were less 
than average………but I knew the 38 MKII as a good boat and good for  racing……..we 
had another successful season this year……..

 

But I’m very fussy about looks and function.lots of improvements over the 
last 10 or so years and it does look brand new today….. I’m also in a slip on a 
dock with only big cruisers (power boats)………I’m the “token sailboat” so I have 
to keep the image up.  

 

The boat next to me is a Hatteras 40……..completely redone inside with granite 
countertops, 2 built-in blenders, and an ice machine……….it’s a great dock!!! 
Never a dry glass.

 

Cheers,

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2015 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Interior Wood Veneer - mid 80's

 

Two Points from Ron’s post

 

1.  +100 to the varnished wood for interior.  Previous three boats were not 
varnished and required oil.  Current 1987 boat came from factory with varnished 
interior and has a LOT of wood.  Never required any touchups in all the time 
since.

 

2.  I found it ironic that Ron blamed cruisers for a lack of interior 
maintenance.  That is usually blamed on people using a boat for racing.

 

We are loving our Winnebago.  Having an interior is really nice. 1987 Frers 33

 

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33 #16

Halifax, NS

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Casciato 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2015 7:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Ron Casciato
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Interior Wood Veneer - mid 80's

 

Jon:  I’m in the camp that hates to use oil on wood since you will have to do 
it again sometimeI hate maintenance.

 

My 1977 38MKII was 20 years old when I got her in 1997, the previous owner used 
her for cruising and did absolutely no maintenance or care so the interior was 
very tired and in some cases sun bleached in the forepeak.

 

I sanded the entire interior and coated it with MInwax Helmsman Satin 
Urethane….I used their gloss version on the trim edges of the bulkheads, etc.

 

It’s been almost 20 years under my ownership ……I wipe it down with pledge 
once a year and I do not plan on ever redoing it again…it looks better than 
it did coming out of the factory.

 

Just my 2 cents worth,

 

Ron C.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jonathan 
Boocock via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2015 5:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Jonathan Boocock <jonbooc...@gmail.com <mailto:jonbooc...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List C Interior Wood Veneer - mid 80's

 

It is time to refresh the interior of my 1986 44 and I have a section that I 
would like to re-veneer. Does anyone know what the wood veneer is on the mid 
80's C's?

Is it teak or some kind of mahogany?

The best match I have found is the Teak Veneer Quartered from Oakwood Veneers.

http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/veneers/teak-veneer.html

I have tried the Watco Danish Oil Cherry as a color match as a lister 
recommended some time ago and it seems to be a pretty good match for my boat.

Any help from someone who has worked on their wood interior would be 
appreciated.

 

Jon

C 44

Mor' Childs Play

Kingston, ON

 

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Re: Stus-List C 37 question

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Also interesting.we have one of each in our Wednesday night fleet……..my 
38-2 and a 37………..both hulls look identical, however, the  37’s PHRF rating is 
almost 10 seconds lower than minehe rates 111 and I rate 120 (racing 
rating)……”cruising rating” comparisons get confused with handicap credits for 
furlers, limited sail inventories, etc.  the 37 cruising rating is 123 and mine 
is 132.  We are very close on the race course.We did better last season and 
it looks like this season will repeat.but only by a few places in a few 
races………

 

Interesting

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 9:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37 question

 

Interesting question.

 

I took a cursory look at the data on Sailboatdata.com and only see one model 
37, available as std, CB, and SD models. Then there is a listing for a 37-2 and 
the 37/40, but both of these are 39.5 feet long.

 

But I got curious when I looked at the rig and interior layout drawings for the 
37. The interior layout appears to be the same as my 38-2, and the only 
difference in appearance is the front of the coach house on the 37 has a flat 
face (like a LF38, which went into production at the same time as the 37), 
where the coach house on the 38-2 tapers into the foredeck. And the production 
on the 37 started just when the 38-2 stopped. 

 

So here is a bit of data:

 

Model LOA   Production

38-1 37.5873-75

38-2 37.5875-80?

37 S/CB/SD37.5881-86

38-3 S/CB/SD/WK 37.5585-?

37-2 S/CB/SD/WK 39.5088

37/40 +/R/XL 39.5088/89

 

Looking at brochures on the Photo Album, the 37 has some amenities the 38 
doesn’t like an anchor locker. And the deck has styling similar to the 35-3, 
38-3, and the 37/40 series with the glued in portlights and recesses in the 
cabin sides aft of the portlights. The interior, however is virtually identical 
to the 38-2.

 

I’m wondering if the 37 was a transitional model – sort of a 38 mk2.5 – that 
bridged the transition to the hull shapes and interior layouts you find in the 
later boats like the 38-3 and the 37/40+/R/XL. Can anyone confirm my hypothesis?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 3:40 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'  >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe  >
Subject: Stus-List C 37 question

 

Curious:

How many types of C 37s are there?

Joe

Coquina

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Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Repower -- Ugh

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

EDD:

 

Lots of great advice in this thread…..BUT; a few years ago, I met with Rob 
Ball at the Newport Boat show…

 

We were going over a couple  of  thing an I asked him (I own a CC 38MKII…1977) 
if he  had it to do over again……….what would be different.  Without even 
hesitating, he took me over  to the Yanmar booth right next to Edson’s where  
he works now, and pointed to  the Yanmar YM30 with the SD20 saildrive.

 

So a year later, I had the opportunity to do just that.  7 years later……….that  
engine is quiet, doesn’t need  the maintenance a transmission does, drives the  
boat  to  over 7kt, an backs up dead straight……..

 

It’s the  quietest engine I have ever heard.  The old Volvo Penta was  removed 
in one piece through the companionway………

 

The Yanmar 3YM30 and SD20 Saildrive comes in a crate mounted to a new bed that 
only has to be scribed and glassed in.  the scary part is that you have to cut 
a hole I the bottom for the drive to go through but the seal system is 
absolutely great………..

 

The total  cost of  the engine and the installation ended up around $9K.  I’ve 
never looked back.

 

If you look around  at new  performance boats and such they all  have  
Saildrives, most of the  J boats e.g.  

 

YOU should at least give  that  option  a glance………..you treat the SailDrive 
like an outboard motor which is  what it  really is.  For  the CC, I’d 
recommend  the long shaft version…..no up charge then.  I also  ended up with a 
Flex-O-Fold 2 bladed folding prop recommended by Yanmar and that, too has  been 
great.

 

So consider moving up to the new propulsion system for the Starshipyou’ll  
love it.

 

Best

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC

1977

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ  
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 12:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ  Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Repower -- Ugh

 


Hi Edd,

Wasn't this a suspected head gasket leak a while ago? Then confirmed suspicion 
finding discoloured oil (grey) and cranking with no firing?  So now it's 
probably just hydraulic'ed and they want to remove the whole puppy!

Did anyone try barring it over with the injectors removed? 

Don't you have a competent mechanic nearby who can pop the head off in less 
than a couple of hours and give you a good opinion?

Might save the season and a few grand to boot, Russ


At 12:41 PM 24/06/2015, you wrote:



Listers,

The yard is pulling out the Enterprise’s engine tomorrow. They can’t get it 
to turn more than 3/4 of the way and they think it’s a bent rod or something. 

So, as far as I can see, the options are:

1. They ship this engine to a place that can fix/rebuild. I know this is the 
lowest-priced option, but also am aware that there’s a possibility it can’t 
be fixed or rebuilt. So, in essence, I’m gambling with all that time and 
labor.
2. Obtain a remanufactured Universal M-35 or a similar engine from Westerbeke 
and get that put in — anyone have any clue as to those costs?
3. Obtain a Beta-30 from Beta Marine for $11,000 including shipping and put 
that in. The Beta guy (who has been enormously helpful) says it should be a 
perfect match (same mounts, same power, lighter engine)

Anyone have any advice, experience or comments with any of these options. If it 
were you, what would you do? 

Wanted to get this email out before I threw up. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 














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Re: Stus-List 38 Salon Table

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

So let me help out hereJoe, where are you located.

I have a CC 38MKII Hull # 125 that came with a custom two drop leaf teak
table with a center chamber to house several liquor bottles, etc. Since we
normally race this boatthe table was too heavy for our use, so I
took it out and have stored it in the attic of my garage for over 12 years. 

It was originally mounted on a box structure over the bilge sump that
covered the Hydraulic drive turbine that drove the prop. (Long story).. 
That system got replaced in 2005 for a new Yanmar 3YM30 with SD20 Saildrive
and we've never looked back.

Depending on how you wanted to set it up, you'd need a pedestal mounted to
your floor, or you could fashion 4 legs to make up the 12 or so in height
to bring up the table to normal. That would allow you to move it if you
wanted.

So here's the deal.  If you are near (within  miles) of the Boston area,
it's yours, just come and pick it up.  If you're farther away, you need to
think about how to get it to you.either case, it's yours. 

Let me know if you're interested.

Ron C.
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC'77

P.S. for you or anyone else..I also have new (never installed) inner
forestay that I was going to add to use for the smaller jibs or as a cutter
rig.Foolish thinking on my part.  I also have an original CC 38 rod
forestay that came off a sister boat and didn't get used when I went to the
Selden Furler...anyone interested..just let me know.  Equally
reasonably priced.



  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
Scott via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2015 9:09 AM
To: Rick Brass
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 38 Salon Table

Thanks Rick. That would be wonderful. Yes I have a 38 mk2 hull #34 so I
would think it would be the same as yours. The mods you did also sound
great. 
I like what you use the lockers for too:)

Thanks,

Joe

Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 19, 2015, at 8:56 AM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 You didn't indicate what model of 38 you have, but if it is a 38 mk2 I
would
 be glad to take photos and make a dimensioned sketch for you.
 
 I've made a couple of modifications from the original arrangement. I found
 the height of the table to be a bit lower than that of a normal table in
 your home; which made access to the bilge difficult and made the fold down
 leaf on the starboard side a bit of an ankle knocker when going forward.
 So I raised the mounting on the mast a few inches and bought a longer
metal
 leg to support the aft end of the table.
 
 The port side of the table top originally was fixed, which made getting
into
 the port settee difficult. I modified the table top so the port side is
now
 a fold down leaf, similar to the starboard side. Big improvement.
 
 But the key feature of the table is the two storage wells in the middle of
 the table top. That is now my liquor locker.
 
 
 Rick Brass
 Imzadi 
 CC 38 mk2 Hull #047
 Washington, NC
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
 Scott via CnC-List
 Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2015 11:17 PM
 To: CnClist
 Subject: Stus-List 38 Salon Table
 
 Hello All
 
 When we bought our 38 it didn't have the salon table. Any ideas where I
 could get a replacement or plans to make one?
 
 Thanks
 
 Joe
 
 Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Rigging set-up

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

I should know this stuffthe videos are where?

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2015 10:49 PM
To: Aronson, Joel; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigging set-up

 

Like your videos.  Always meant to do that for my boat and crew.   

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2015 1:02:54 PM
Subject: Stus-List Rigging set-up

 

All,

 

In order to help my race crew adjust to my boat, I made 2 short videos
showing the running rigging and electronics that are on YouTube under CC 35
Rigging.  If you are bored, take a look.

 

What I've done may not be right for anyone else, but it might give you ideas
of what to do or not do, and if you have a 35/3, you can see how different
our boats are.  I know some have a different mast, some have hydraulic
vangs, some lack a second jib track and reaching strut, etc.

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis


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Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Hi Rick:

 

I claim advantage since I also have a 38MKII, '77 vintage.

 

You could check the NEPHRF.org website to see if your current handicaps are
close for the boats racing.if you have boats that are not registered,
you could assign a rating comparable with the list found there.  

 

However, there are always discrepancies.the known list portends to be
applicable to a boat that is in racing shape  in our case that means that
the sails and equipment are up to snuff and the bottom is cleanI would
expect that some of your participants won't match those criteria

 

What we do in the Hingham fleet is to establish a racing and a cruising
rating for each boat.  Racing rating considers that the regular symmetrical
spinnaker will be used on a pole.  The cruising rating covers boats using
Jib and main only.  For our regular Wednesday night races, we don't have
enough boats to race separate races in each fleet so if I want to race in
the B fleet (which we won overall last year), and we don't want to use a
spinnaker (which I don't have, only an ASYM) we let cruising boats race
with the spinnaker boats and add 10% to the cruising ratingThat worked
very well for us last year.

 

IN our pursuit races, and we have several with over 100 boats entered, we
also (by necessity) have both types of boats racing in the same raceall
in one fleet.  IN that case, boats that are racing Cruising get 10sec.
added to their cruising rating.  Again worked well for us last year. 

 

In your Pursuit race..simply assign a base handicap to each boat and
then adjust it for spinnaker or not racing.  Since the pursuit race starting
time already takes the handicap into accountthen as usual, the first
boat across the finish line wins

 

You could also check out a web site; www.regattaman.com
http://www.regattaman.com/   these guys do the race management for most of
the events in New Englandfind the calendar page and check out the Great
Chase Raceyou'll find NOR's, Sailing instructions, and ratings for over
100 boats from Rhodes 19's to Swan 42's and beyond...

 

If you need more info, check with me off line and I'll send what I can.

 

Best,

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC...'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 9:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet

 

OK. I know this has been discussed before. But I just spent almost two hours
in the mail archives rereading a whole bunch of previous messages, trying to
come up with a consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to allow spin
and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet.

 

What I firmly believe I have discovered is that, sort of like economists and
politicians, if you laid all the opinions end to end they would never reach
a conclusion.

 

I know that a number of PHRF organizations give a boat both a Spin and a
non-spin rating. And I understand that local some local organizations with
small fleets running in a single event will adjust the ratings of boats in
non-spin to promote more even competition. From what I can see, the credit
for running non-spin seems to be in the range of 10-18 seconds, or 10-15% of
the boat's PHRF.

 

What I'm trying to do is plan for a CC Cup to be run as part of a local
charity regatta called Pirates on the Pungo, in Belhaven, NC on the weekend
of May 15-17. More on that later.

 

The race on Saturday is a longish (10-12NM) pursuit race that starts and
finishes in the harbor and has north, south, east, and west legs. I know of
about 15 CCs within a day's travel of Belhaven, so I'm guessing the fleet
would include 8-10 boats, with some cruisers and 1 or 2 real racers. To
promote camaraderie and competition, and also so I don't have to pony up too
much for the prizes (the winner will get a half hull of his own boat made by
Andrew Burton), we would have a single fleet.

 

So help me here:

 

How does your local PHRF or sailing club adjust the ratings between Spin and
JAM to allow both types of boats in a single fleet? And how equitable are
the results based on your experience?

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  CC 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List Racing w whisker poles

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Chuck et al.

 

According to my reading of the rating adjustments in this link
http://www.phrfne.org/page/handicapping/handicap_adjustments   ; Whisker
pole may only be = to J dimension.  The rest of this tome makes my head hurt
often.

 

However, we have figured out how to get the 38MKII to rate at 145 in a mixed
fleet using only jib and mainin all of the Wednesday series races. In
pursuit races the cruising rating is 142..(Cruising rating of 132 + 10).  

 

The discussion this past year over the ratings of boats with bow sprits and
the oversized ASYMS has been a painful exercise in not satisfying
anybody...so the topic is shelved until sometime in the futurethe rating
adjustments here work for our CC's .  The issue has been for boats like the
older J35 which would have been wacked to match a new J109absurd

 

Ron

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC..'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 11:20 AM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Stus-List Racing w whisker poles

 

Ron, Gary, Rick,  

Curious.  Does your RC allow adjustable whisker poles longer than J length
to be used during a race in your areas?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Brent:

Check the website for Composite Soplutions, Inc. in Hingham MA.  Jeff Kent
is a composite master and would have lots of ssugestions or even maybe has
a pert that might work.

http://csi-composites.com  

Tell him I sent you.

Ron Casciato
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC'77

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent
Driedger via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 12:03 PM
To: CC List Canada
Subject: Stus-List Composite project (not CC related directly)

Good day folks. 
Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little TLC
I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard. I'm
going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet for
a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone have
any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second, for
the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for this
project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?  
Thanks. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.  

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Diagram for deck arrangement on CC 32?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Hans:

Lots of great advice here from other listers, but I wonder if it would be
helpful to describe what your sailing style is.  Do you i9ntend to mainly
cruise, where would you sail, what winds are you likely to experience, etc.


If you are a racer, then certain lines are necessary, but if you are mainly
a cruiser and might be shorthanded, then other accommodations are
appropriate.

Will you be out on long?? Off shore cruises?  Will you be mainly in coastal
waters off the coast  What is the wind like in your area,
generally

Your boat will do all of these things, and do it well and reliably, but you
need to decide on your own requirements first.  

Why did you buy the 32?

If you are a novice as you mentioned, it might be better to take off most of
the non essential lines now and you can always add them later.  You won't
need extra spinnaker halyards if you don't have a spinnaker and don't intend
to use it this year. But they will certainly get in the way while you learn
about the boat.

Just my 2 cents worth,

Good luck and welcome to the best discussion group anywhere.

Ron Casciato
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC'77 

 



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hans-Erik
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2015 10:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Diagram for deck arrangement on CC 32?

I'm a proud new owner of a CC 32 and a novice sailor. I'm trying to get a
better handle on the fairly complex layout of the deck tackle on this boat.
Is there any resource (i.e. diagram) available that would explain the
arrangement of blocks, winches, etc. for this boat? I would have thought
that this might be included in the owners manual but it's not. Thanks for
the help!

Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List Ron CAsciato with a question re email addressses:

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

HI Stu:

 

Long time no talk, but I read the list every day.

 

I'm in the process of changing some of my email addresses for receiving
email and I would like to keep my CC email constant.  However, I, as usual,
deleted the regular notification of my membership in the list group and I
would like to have the email you have on file as the one you send list
emails out to me.  Is that something you can put you fingers on
conveniently?

 

It's the only one I have that uses the Verizon.net address I think.

 

I appreciate your help as usual.

 

Ron Casciato

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC...'77

 

Wow, almost 38 years oldstill looks brand new.

 

 

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Re: Stus-List cc 41

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Danny:  Do you want a project boat or one that's ready to go?

I believe that there's still a 40-41 in Hingham Ma handled by Eastern
Yachts. It's been there for a while, and could use a paint job, but still a
40-41.

Ron C. 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2014 8:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List cc 41

hi guys,

does anyone know anything about the 41 for sale in portsmouth ri?  the
boat's name is reverie.

Danny

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Ed:  What's the link for that headlight??:...very nifty idea.

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 11:50 AM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs

 

Now this is a headlight -
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/headlight.jpg 

 

LED's - highly recommended for those dark nights driving through a mooring
field. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/
Captain's Log

 

On Nov 6, 2014, at 11:35 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Sorry, the vernacular is confusing.  Steaming is the headlight placed on
the mast.  Not the light on the masthead.  My OEM CC panel has a switch
labelled Headlight.  I have to remind myself that it is not Head Light.

Josh

 

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Re: Stus-List CC for sale locally

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

 

 

So the write up says the new RED Awlgrip done in 2008...but all of the
pictures are  of  a WHITE boat???// wonder what's up with that???

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 7:50 AM
To: russ...@telus.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC for sale locally

 

 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Hi Guys,

 

I thought this might be of some interest.  I friend of mine sent it to me
yesterday.

 

I have no affiliation with this boat what-so-ever.

 

79 CC 36 for $20,500

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/boa/4705372237.html

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Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Joe:  I also have a 170 Genoa that came with my boat (1978)...but I've4
never used it.  Where do you lead the sheets for a 170.  My 38MKII uses a
155 regularly and that sheet leads almost back to the winch.  I figured that
the previous owner (or the original owner) used the transom corner fitting
for a turning block location.

 

Incidentally, I have the original IOR rating certificate listing the 170
with a penalty of about 3-4 seconds.to offset that, the owner shortened
the main luff dimension by about 3 feetbalanced out his penalty

 

Always wondered how you would trim that much sail since it comes back to
within a couple of feet of the transom.Sail bag is labeled H1..North
Special 170 Genoa.

 

Someday I'll have to get it out and just set it up to see where it
leads.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest

 

 

Working jib= 100% jib.

My jib has not been used since I got the furling gear around 1987 or so. I
have 2 170% genoas that are around 25-28 years old but barely used. Likewise
since the furling gear they hardly ever leave the bags.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

CC 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:29 AM
To: 'Gary Nylander'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest

 

Working jib?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:16 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest

 

You win. Mine is a 1980, still feels new, but as you know, we don't use
working jibs much around here.

 

Gary

St. Michaels

- Original Message - 

From: Della Barba, mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Joe via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 7:35 AM

Subject: Stus-List oldest sail contest

 

 

I am going to take the working jib down to the boat in case we get a honking
25 knot day so I can get a good beat in and it occurred to me that the jib
came from CC when the boat was new in 1973. Does anyone have an older sail
than that?

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

CC 35 MK I


  _  


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Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

David:  Just my 2 cents worth..

 

Since you're in Newport RI, you have way more rigging expertise at your
fingertips than most of us on this list.Newport is full of competition
boats and riggers and such.  Find someone local and have them look at the
rig.

 

MY 38MKIIC is a 1977 vintage and has the original rod rigging that came with
the boat.  My mast is, however, a Stearns' mast instead of the standard CC
one.  I have had my mast down several times in the past 16 years of
ownership and I've also had the rigging checked each time.  Regardless of
mast manufacturer, rod rigging is still a better option from my
perspective

 

To date (now I've really jinxed it) it is in fine shape and I expect it to
last a long time.

 

We race this boat so it gets more stress than usual cruising does and still
the rod is intact and healthy.

 

Just for thought.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC..'77

 

Incidentally.they are making new CC's right down the road from Newport
and you might drop in there to get an opinion.Principles there were
related to the CC production effort in RI back in the daythey should be
great resources for you locally..

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 10:57 AM
To: David Dawes; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List thread reply and rod rigging

 

David, 

If you're looking at reheading all the rigging, think about pulling the rig,
removing all the shrouds, coiling them up and taking them to a NavTec shop.
You can coil the rod to no LESS than 200 times diameter and strap it to an
X made of 2 x 4's for transport.  UPS will ship it.  

You didn't say where you were.  There may be a NavTec shop near you. Throw
it in a pickup and drive it there.

 

Before you coil it, make a list of each rod and carefully measure the pin to
pin distance.  That is, between the centers of the hole in each end.  Also
measure the pin diameters.  Now you have a record of the rig.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 7:19 AM, David Dawes via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi, can someone tell me how to reply to a thread?  Sorry, I can't figure it
out.  So I started a new one.

 

 

Next I looked at a 1984 CNC 35 M3 yesterday.  Concerned about the rod
rigging.  This boat is run down so I don't expect a record of rigging
inspection or service.

 

A rigger friend recommended full replacement.

 

Is this correct?  And what are alternatives?  What is a rod replacement cost
approx?  And is a wire replacement smart/ advisable/ cost effective or too
heavy?  Technology has moved ahead in 30 years.

 

I love the boat layout etc.  But suspect rigging will kill my offshore
pleasure!

 

Many thanks,

 

David.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

David Dawes

Captain

Newport, RI, USA

+1(401)5854942 tel:%2B1%28401%295854942 

dawes...@hotmail.com

 

 

 


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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

In the boatyards around Boston.almost no masts are removed for
winter storage..most are stored with mast up and seem to do
well

In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for revisions or repairs to
wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year interval

It will be staying up again this year.  Yes, relieve the tension on shrouds
and backstay a little not flopping around

Ron C.
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC.'77

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM
To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea.  Many clubs
around here do not permit it

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?


All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the
merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.
In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
 CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast 
 left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not 
 encountered during normal operation. Any damage  to  the  yacht,  its

 cradle  or  any  associated  part will not  be  covered  under 
 warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.

I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by hand.
Our club has a crane and a gin pole(?) that could be used to pull the
mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast in place
I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the shrouds a
little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3
yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of
the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch
crew for me)

Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a
good idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That
said everything is working well -- is it easier to just go up the mast
in a bosuns chair and do an inspection from there?

Advice appreciated,
Mark


-- 


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   - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Mike:

 

I agree that we haven't talked about this one for some time..in my case
(mast up)...the cost to take it down and put it back up is
prohibitivemore than $500 which is not part of the storage
agreementnot doing that every year.

 

Ron C.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 3:32 PM
To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

This is a long time debate.  Which damages boat / mast more?  Removal and
reinstall of mast and potential mishaps or leaving it up?  I know that one
season on our J27 we left the mast up.  That Spring while working on the
boat the entire cradle would vibrate every time a gust of wind hit.  I
attribute this to a very slender and bendy spar as much as anything.

 

The big issue these days seems to be leaving a spar up with a boat on jack
stands.  The extra windage of the mast further compromises the integrity of
jack stands.  One local club (Dartmouth Yacht Club) will not permit a mast
to be left up on the hard unless the boat is stored on a cradle.  Another
way to look at it is if you wish to use jack stands the mast must come down.

 

I realize that many boat yards in the Northeast US only allow jackstands.  I
believe this is due to yard space and not due to a jackstand being more
secure than a cradle.  

 

So here we are back to the very old mast up vs mast down question.  At the
very least mast down does give you a good opportunity to inspect the
standing rigging and the mast

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 4:17 PM
To: Ron Casciato; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

 

Same in Annapolis. Masts stay in the boat unless they are being worked on.

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:13 PM, Ron Casciato via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

In the boatyards around Boston.almost no masts are removed for
winter storage..most are stored with mast up and seem to do
well

In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for revisions or repairs to
wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year interval

It will be staying up again this year.  Yes, relieve the tension on shrouds
and backstay a little not flopping around

Ron C.
Impromptu
CC 38MKIIC.'77


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM
To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?

Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea.  Many clubs
around here do not permit it

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?


All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the
merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter.
In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states
 CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast
 left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not
 encountered during normal operation. Any damage  to  the  yacht,  its

 cradle  or  any  associated  part will not  be  covered  under
 warranty if the boat has been stored with the rig in place.

I pulled the mast on my Mirage 24 - but we were able to do that by hand.
Our club has a crane and a gin pole(?) that could be used to pull the
mast --- but given all the bigger boats seem to leave the mast in place
I wonder if I'm better leaving it as it is. Loosen up the shrouds a
little and maybe pull our the halyards (leaving messenger lines).
I know when I bought the boat it hadn't been off the jack stands for 3
yrs - and the mast was up the whole time (shrouds not loosened and 3 of
the 4 halyards just pulled up to the mast head --- rescued by the launch
crew for me)

Having just bought this boat I wonder if hauling the mast might be a
good idea so I can get a good look at the mast head, sheaves etc. That
said everything is working well -- is it easier to just go up the mast
in a bosuns chair and do an inspection from there?

Advice appreciated,
Mark


--


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Red light myth?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Ted:

Thanks for the description of what's happening to my eyesmakes lotd
of things clearer.

Incidentally, my wife's new Mercedes has ambient lighting surrounding the
interior at night which is Amber, I'm told that I can change it to red or
blue, but I agree that the amber is a very nice surrounding for night
driving.

The ambient lighting comes from strips of LEDs??? Along each side of the
door trim moldings under the window sill both front and back.

Best,

Ron C.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2014 10:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Red light myth?

Red light for night vision is NOT a myth, but there are some issues with it.
I have long experience with it both sailing and as a pilot.
Any decent camera has a lens made of different types of glass layered
together or otherwise designed to focus red, green, and blue light in the
same spot. Our eyes do not - we have a simple one-element lens optimized
around green light. Red light is very poor for doing fine detail work or
reading small print. Most people lose flexibility in their lens as they age
and usually this results in not being able to focus as close as before -
i.e. reading glasses. This also affects the ability to focus red light. I
used to teach in a plane that only had red panel lighting and some of my
older students had a very hard time reading the instruments while I -
younger back then - had no issue at all. Red light is also horrible for
reading charts, all the color detail washes out.  We had another plane with
white instrument lights and red area lights for the cockpit. I liked that
one the best, we would turn up the red light enough to see what was what and
turn down the instrument lights until they were a very dim yellowish white.
If the white is dim enough it didn't ruin our night vision and was much
easier to read than just using the red overhead lights. Mercedes and Porsche
use a similar idea, or at least they did back when I had them. Both cars
used black dial instruments with orange-red needles and white lights. You
could dim it way down and still read the gauges just fine. BMW uses an
orange-red that works pretty well and Audi uses pure red. Once you get past
a certain age the organge-ish (amber?) color is easier to focus and I
think what you lose moving away from pure red you gain by not needing it to
be so bright* to focus.
* more camera tech. Bright light, for both cameras and your eyes, means
reducing the amount of light with your iris getting smaller or the
mechanical version in a camera. Due to the physics involved you gain depth
of field by doing this, so things are in focus in front of and behind the
focus point. If you are far sighted, you might be able to read something a
lot closer in bright light than in dim light because of this and red light
makes this happen even more.
So - IMHO and I Am Not An Eye Doctor - I have set my boat up with all red
lights for night sailing. The red is fine for getting around and finding
large objects. My compass has big enough markings to look fine in red light
as do the engine gauges. I can deploy a small dim white light at the chart
table if I need to, but it is a rare occasion now for me to work on paper
charts. I do set the computer plotter to be as dim as it can be an turn down
the screen brightness on the laptop to the lowest setting, but still in
color. If I shift it to night mode with black background I seem lose a lot
of detail. I do see many plotters WAY too bright at night. I see boats going
by with the helmsman clearly illuminated by the plotter. I do not see how
they can see even as far as the bow.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
CC 35 MK I


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Re: Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a CC 30 sailboat

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

So Ted:

Just so I'm clear on what you did.you installed 2 of these exciters
behind the cockpit coaming sides...but you seem to have a volume dial
located where and available from who?

Thanks,  Ron C.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe at
Zialater via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2014 8:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a CC 30 sailboat

Howdy all,

I installed the sound exciters on my 30 MK1 after watching Ted's video.  In
a word, fantastic.  They sound great and they are totally protected under
the cockpit.  No drilling or cutting needed and cheap to boot.  They attach
with double stick tape rings - I plan on working up a better solution for
that.I installed a WM7000 Bluetooth stereo from Westmarine - remote
control and lots of other good features.  

Here is a link to the exciters that I purchased -
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072HYSUW/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8psc=
1.  4 ohms to match the wm stereo.

My kids come sailing with me more often now that they can stream their
iphones - and I have to listen to electronic dance music - fair enough
trade-off I guess.

Cheers,

Joe Boyle
Zia
30 MK1
Annapolis
Zialater.com


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2014 22:47:10 -0400
From: Ted Drossos replus...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sound exciter installation on a CC 29 sailboat
Message-ID: 8d19ab8a6ae8ad0-2b28-a...@webmail-va018.sysops.aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Yes, the person who posted that video of the sound exciter installation on a
CC 29 is a lister. Me. I have to say that I was very skeptical when I
originally started that project but figured that it was worth a shot.
Cutting 6 diameter holes in my cockpit had prevented me from adding
speakers for many years. That YouTube video was taken with an iPad so the
sound quality isn't a true representation of the great sound that these
little sound exciters can produce. A typical speaker would also make nearby
objects vibrate if they were loose and in close proximity. It's not an
issue. This is a great solution to adding sound in the cockpit without
having to cut holes. They stay dry and can't be accidentally damaged by a
foot going through them. I've seen that happen all to often on other boats.


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Re: Stus-List Companionway hood

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Bob:  Assuming that the hood is similar to my 38MKII.some thoughts on
the process might be useful to you.

 

I've replaced the sliding Plexiglas 3 times since I've owned the boat  (15
years)During the middle replacement, I decided to completely remove
the sliding components and made new teak ones  but in the process, I noted
that since the boat seems to sit bow down a little (so it sails flat when
crew is in the cockpit), I was collecting lots of water and finally rotted
stuff in the small space ahead of the slide.  That space holds about a half
gallon of water and over time it just gets gray and messy.  

 

Since you will have the hood off, and since your headliner is easily
accessible, consider this.I drilled out the forward corners of that
space and led a flared stainless tube down to connect with some Tygon tubing
and then out of the cabin side just forward of the windowsThe exit hole
is about a1/4 and is cut at the same anagle as the cabin sides so it
doesn't show.  All of the tubing is hidden by the headliner panels...

 

That area is now always dry and since there's a way out, I haven't had any
concern for over 5 years.  Every spring, I run a wire snake up from the side
to clear anything that has plugged the holes and never found anything of
substance.

 

Your leak at the corners of the companionway is likely caused by the aging
of the sealant used in making that teak frame for the drop boards.I had
mine taken off this year and there was hardly anything behind it.  So we
fabricated new ones from Starboard (seafoam matches our decks) and really
sealed the whole thing with sealant.

 

Been in for 4 months now and never a drop .since the bow down angle of
the boat at rest collects water up front, when you get in the cockpit, it
drains backward out of the  trough at each side of the sliding part of the
hatch and down onto the bridge deck seat.before it used to collect at
the base of the drop board and then into the spaces on either side that were
unsealed.

 

Maybe the job should be expanded to take care of your current problem and
any future issues than can come up ..doing it now prevents you from
doing it again...

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC..'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Boyer via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2014 1:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Companionway hood

 

I am planning to remove my companionway hood and check for leaks later this
Fall.  Leaks into the hood are not an issue but I think the screws that
fasten the hood simply screw into the outer layer of fiberglass and
penetrate into the balsa core (like many other original fastenings).  I will
most likely remove a little core in the area of the screws and check it for
water.  I will probably drill out the holes to a bigger size (like 3/4-inch)
and then fill them with thickened epoxy.  After the epoxy hardens, I will
use a suitably sized pilot hole so the screws have something to bite into.
Even if it's not leaking into the core now, if you've gone to all the
trouble of removing the hood, why not fix it so it will never leak?  In this
case, there wouldn't be much of a need for any sealant.

 

In driving rains, I am getting a leak that exits near the companionway
steps--I think the companionway hood is the likely entrance for the water
(unless it is simply coming in at the companionway door).  If this is the
case (which I don't know for sure yet) my balsa core is probably wet in the
area.  We'll see...

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails New Stanchion

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Steve:

I agree with Wally...the only remaining piece of teak on my 38MKIIC
is the fiddle on the sliding companionway hatch.  Tops In Quality did mine
and they are a great addition to any boat..  I gave my teak maintenance
stuff away

I also hear that Tops In Quality was out of business, but check online to
see if anyone has taken them over.or find a local stainless
fabricator in your area...

Where is your area?

BE prepared to spend around $400-500 or so for a complete set.

Good luck,

Ron C.

P.S. I'm surprised that your email actually came throughwhat with all
that stuff hanging on the end of itI guess the list moderator was asleep
at the switch..





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stephen
Thorne via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 3:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails  New Stanchion




Guys,

I need to replace on of my stanchions which got bent in a not so sexy
departure from a dock recently.  Any ideas where I can source stanchions
same as my 1990 34+?

Also I am interested in replacing the old teak grab rails with a stainless
rail and wanted to know if anyone has done this and if so where did they go
to have said rail made?

Steve Thorne
Deja Vu
CC 34+
On Jul 16, 2014, at 6:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


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Re: Stus-List Anyone remove the helm seat?

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Joel:  I did it last year on my 38MKIIC.much more room, the cockpit can 
accommodate it and I like to sail from the lower leeward side to see 
telltales………..I find it much more agreeable Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2014 9:10 PM
To: 'Joel Aronson'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone remove the helm seat?

 

Joel,

 

Only one way to find out!  I think you may find the room behind the helm rather 
spacious without the seat there.  I tend to lean back into the seat with the 
backs of my legs.  Try it and see how it feels.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2014 7:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Anyone remove the helm seat?

 

I removed the helm seat in order to get to the rudder post bolts.  I'm thinking 
of leaving the seat out in order to create more space behind the wheel.  (I was 
going to try to make a teak seat with a more gentle contour.)

 

Has anyone else removed the seat?  What is it like sailing without it?

 

Joel

35/3

The Office

Annapolis 



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Single soft shackle works great on my 38MKIIC……….They are relatively easy to 
make yourself, just google soft shackle and watch the video……….

 

Made mine out of Amsteel..

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2014 10:13 PM
To: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

 

Dennis,  think a single soft shackle would work? 

Bill Walker.  

 

Sent from my HTC

 

- Reply message -
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: Kevin Driscoll kevindrisc...@gmail.com mailto:kevindrisc...@gmail.com 
, CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay
Date: Wed, Jun 18, 2014 9:12 PM





I had a very similar problem times two.  Touche' has forward lower
shrouds.  It's like having two baby stays.  Touche's jibsheet bowlines hung
up on each of the forward lower shrouds on each tack.
 
I ordered new 3/8 VPC jibsheets with eyes in each end from apsltd.com.  To
attach the sheets to the sail, I used soft shackles, one on each eye.
 
Problem solved!  Our first tack with the new system was amazing.  The sails
flew through the foretriangle with little to no delay or hanging up.
Highly recommend the upgrade to soft shackles.
 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
 
 
On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 8:21 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:
 
 I find that my jib sheet bowlines get hung up on my stay quite a bit,
 especially with my 130 on. Any suggestions?
 
 Thanks,
 Kevin
 30-2
 
 Sent from a mobile device.
 
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Re: Stus-List CC 38 mk1 vs mk2

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

HI Steve:  Just to add to the listing..my 1977 38 is Hull #125; the 
original build paperwork shows that it was built in the “Bruckman Shop” and has 
the designation of MKIIC.  Someone mentioned the PHRF ratings of the two……….New 
England PHRF rates the MKI at 111 and the MKII at 114.  Go figure.

 

My experience is that a rating around 114 would be tough to sail to in our 
fleets up here.  Adding the cruising allowance for a working roller furling 
adds 6 seconds to the racing rating.=120.   That makes my “Cruising” rating 132 
for a masthead rig.  Since I use an ASYM instead of a Symmetrical Spinnaker. I 
can declare “no pole” and that adds 9 Seconds to the 120………so today, I’m 
sailing with a racing rating of 129 and the cruising rating of 132………..and the 
boat will definitely sail to those ratings. 

 

This boat looks and runs like new……….even better with the Yanmar 
Saildrive…recommended by Rob Ball.

 

Best,

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

MKIIC…..’77

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 1:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 mk1 vs mk2

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'm not crazy then! If the owners 
themselves don't know the difference I don't feel so bad. Also, it means the 
older boats are worth considering. I'm also reading mixed reports of cored vs 
non-cored hulls. Anyone care to comment on that one?? Mostly I read that they 
are cored all the way down.

 

Thanks,

Steve

Suhana, CC 32

Toronto

 

 

On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 11:57 AM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

Jim and Steve
My 1976 hull# 99 has old perf papers that call it a mk I.  I 
have been trying to find out the difference for years. At the Mystic rendezvous 
I asked Rob Ball and he didn't know said it might have been a marketing thing.

.Gary Kolc..Liberty

 jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 Steve, the break between the Mk1 and Mk2 is a total mystery to me. I own Hull 
 #100 which was built in 1976 while Rick Brass has hull #47 built sometime in 
 1975? All evidence indicates that my boat is a Mk2 while Rick's is a Mk1. I 
 have been on both boats and I'll be darned if I can find any difference and 
 in my opinion there is no difference. My guess is that CC didn't like the 
 measurement certificate for the early boats and decided to call the next 
 years boat a Mk2 to get the boat remeasured (just a stab in the dark guess 
 though). Keep in mind that the 38 was designed as a large 1 tonner and the 
 Mk1 was rated slightly above the cut off. I have also noticed that the 
 brochures on the the website do not make any distinction in the different 
 years. Various sources list different dimensions for the beam measurement, 
 and again I can't spot it between the two boats. I suspect that is due to 
 measuring the beam on deck (narrower) versus the overall beam (wider). Some 
 of the sources list the Mk1 as being 6 narrower but that is about the amount 
 of tumblehome in the sides. PHRF also rates them the same.
 James
 S/V Delaney
 1976 CC 38
 Oriental, NC
   - Original Message -
   From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
   Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 8:46 AM
   Subject: Stus-List CC 38 mk1 vs mk2


   Hi All,


   I can't seem to find what the cut-off date was for the 38 between the mk1 
 and the mk2. Any ideas? I'm not buying a new boat anytime soon but you know, 
 window shopping and maintaining a short list. Sailboatdata lists the MK2 as 
 having IOR specific changes over the MK1, not sure what that means though? 
 The MK3 is a totally different boat. The 38 has really grown on me and I 
 think it's a really pretty boat. I've read that at least one or two have 
 circumnavigated and they are a lot of boat for the money. Just looking for 
 more info.


   Thanks,
   Steve
   Suhana, CC 32
   Toronto









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Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Centerboard (I'm told 34+ is similar)

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Just an added note:

My yard is now working on a Tartan 40 with the very same arrangement.  CB
pivots at the  leading edge of the keel and the fitting for the cable on
that boat is actually a block anchoring system where the end of the cable is
located up in the trunk and the block at the CB gives a 2:1 purchase up
through the keel into the cabin.

 

The CB block anchor corroded and just pulled out...

 

Seems to be the standard design for such a system.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

CC 38MKIIC .'77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2014 8:18 PM
To: Edd Schillay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Centerboard (I'm told 34+ is similar)

 

My board requires a yard travel lift to get the room to have the board
hanging only by the pin--it appears that CC designed them that way. Then
everything is reasonably accessible.

 

The pennant travel passes thru a cabin top 'stop', then a sheave directing
it vertically thru a SS tube thru the cabin floor to another sheave that
directs it horizontal again just beneath the cabin sole to another sheave
that directs it vertically thru the cb trunk/keel to the aft end go the
elliptical board. This is different than the sketch Edd provided. I'll send
it out when I get to a computer with it loaded on it. This drawing was done
by Rob Bell in Oct 1993.

 

The sheaves are mounted in SS 'boxes' that have watertight SS access ports
for inspection and running new pennants--both well below the waterline!

 

Further the keel bolts are into the cb trunk 'outside' the space that the cb
occupies. 

 

I now have the pennant inspected during each yearly haul out for bottom
painting, etc. and plan to replace it on a 5 year basis unless the yearly
inspection indicates that it should be replaced sooner.

 

I know a lot more about cb design than I should but such is the life of a cb
boat owner. Given my use of the boat and where it 'lives', I would buy
another one without hesitation although I think a lifting keel would be the
best but probably more costly.

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

CC 36XL/kcb

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 9, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Chuck,

 

Had a long talk with a yard owner about this who is familiar
with the boat (he provided the diagram.) 

 

I'm not sure about those few keel bolts other than to think they
don't go down that far so the board can go up. 

 

As you can see, with the board down, the cable access is still
deep inside the trunk - my divers were unable to get in there with any
light/tools. I'm told the only way to replace the cable is to haul the boat
at least 8 feet in the air, take apart the table so the steel tube and
access to the pulley below the waterline can be reached and taken apart.
Then snake the cable through and have someone try to reconnect inside the
trunk (not a lot of space to work with). 

 

My club can't get the boat that high, so every time I would want
to replace the cable, I'm looking at a commercial yard with commercial yard
rates (they'd have to do the work too.) $. 



 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/
Captain's Log

 

On Jun 9, 2014, at 5:20 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote:





Hi Edd,

How are the keel bolts laid out?  Are they on either side of the
centerboard?

 

And the pendent is fed thru a tube sealed to the cabin floor?

 

How do you access the pulley that is placed below the waterline?

 

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R

Broad Creek,
Magothy River, Md

 


  _  


From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, June 9, 2014 11:56:25 AM
Subject: Stus-List CC 37+ Centerboard (I'm told 34+ is similar)

 

Stu (and any Listers who may be interested),

 

 You may want this document on the Photo Album site which may be of use to
others - it's a diagram of the CC 37+ (and XL) centerboard. I'm told that
the 34+ and XL centerboard models are very similar. 

 

 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/centerboard.pdf 

 

 Also, a correction on the site:  Under CC Owners Homepages, could you
change my link to www.starshipsailing.com http://www.starshipsailing.com/
? Also, the Enterprise isn't a 37/40XL, but a 37+ (or 37/40+)

 

 Lastly, I have some photos of the 37+ interior and Dock Photos if you
want them. What is the best way to get these to you? 

 

 Thanks for all you do. 

 

 

 All the best,

 

 Edd

 

 

 Edd M. Schillay

 Starship Enterprise

 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

 City Island, NY 



 Starship Enterprise's Captain's 

Re: Stus-List PO,ed

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

2 things.change the subject for this topic. It's too important not to
overlook like I did a minute ago..

 

Then.I use Comcast email and outlook.I cannot find any note of an
unsubscribe command anywhere on my emails  the highlighted
mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com doesn't go
anywhere..

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2014 10:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List PO,ed

 

That incident changed the way I think about when is a good time to be
clipped on, and wearing a PFD. Previous to that, I had never really thought
about being thrown off the boat by another boat smashing into me in
otherwise relatively benign conditions. I never thought to take those
precautions when slowly and peacefully gliding along in fog... especially on
a weekday, when most of the weekend warriors are not out on the water,
speeding around with no lights, radio, or horn signals. 

Bill Bina

On 5/14/2014 9:40 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:

In 2003 a J105 heading for Block Island race week crashed into a large motor
yacht because the crew of the J105 could not figure out how to stop the
tiller auto pilot.  The captain was below and had a heart attack after the
collision and died on the way to the hospital.  No one was on watch on the
yacht which was also on autopilot.  Sometimes pushing the right button isn't
easy.  Jerry

 

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Re: Stus-List Standing water on deck

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

So, Cut a piece of sponge about 1” square and 3-5 inches long.  Slice it
half way through near the center.  Now insert the sponge through your rail
hole near the water pool and open the cut slot to fit over the lower part of
the rail……… and then leave it alone and never touch it again.

 

The water absorbs into the sponge and since the outer end is “lower” than
the inner end, water flows overboard and the whole thing dries up in the
sunpick a dark color sponge and never take them out

 

Or you can remove them for sailing and then put them back afterward…..DO
NOT CUT into the RAIL….

 

Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JOHN D
IRVIN via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 3:02 PM
To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Standing water on deck

 

You can also use a bit of cotton rope as a siphon, removing it while under
way of course. Almost like a baggywrinkle. 



 

From: via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 2:52:12 PM
Subject: Stus-List Standing water on deck


Hi all,

I just recently bought a CC 33 Mk II and have noticed that I have standing
water around the aft part of the toerail for several days after a rainfall. 

I was thinking of putting a notch in the toerail to help it drain (at least
most of it) or perhaps a little 90 degree scupper from the deck to the hull.
Or am i better off just to leave well enough alone?

Thanks,
Mike
Atacama, Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Shroud roller

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

We use a ½” piece of PVC pipe.about $2.00 and wipe with acetone to remove 
the plumbing printing…….has worked great for over 10 years…

 

This year, we took the baby stay off.  I’m just never going to be anywhere 
where I’ll need it…

 

Ron C.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2014 12:55 PM
To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shroud roller

 

It is a good idea to get one size oversize so they spin easily on the wire.  
They don't hold moisture that way either.

 

Ken H.

 

On 8 May 2014 10:33, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

Also, covering SS wire leads to more corrosion.  Most riggers will tell you not 
to use them.

 

You might consider shroud rollers:

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|118|2358491|2358503 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C2358491%7C2358503id=161924
 id=161924

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 8:49 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

Rich:

Good point which is why I put a few wraps of white tape on mine on both ends 
and in the middle so the cover can't slip open.   And since it is only on my 
babystay, I rarely grab it for an support.



Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.





On 2014/05/08 9:32 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:

Just a safety note on the car cover:  I had them on my CC 27, they looked 
right sharp!  I took them off shortly after on the day I climbed on board 
grabbing a shroud for support.  The cover split open, collapsed down the shroud 
and dumped me on my butt on the dock. Close call. Never again. 


Rich


On May 8, 2014, at 9:20, Robert Abbott via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

David:

I have a baby stay as well.as Ken pointed out on the Binnacle site, I use 
both the six foot length of 'cable cover' on the babystay itself and then the 
'turnbuckle cap cover' on the turnbuckle on the bottom.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax. N.S.



On 2014/05/08 6:21 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:

Are looking for a cover for the cable itself like these: 
http://us.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Cable-covers/c28_148/index.html 

 

Or a cover for the turnbuckles like these (scroll down a bit to Turnbuckle 
Boot): http://us.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Turnbuckles- 
http://us.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Turnbuckles--Accessories/c28_147/index.html
 -Accessories/c28_147/index.html

 

Ken H.

 

On 7 May 2014 23:08, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

My boat came with white plastic tubing on the babystay, which I am told are 
called shroud rollers.  I was told that it protects the genoa while tacking.  
The tubing itself is cracked in various places and I am thinking of replacing 
it, but can’t find anything similar online.  Does anyone know a source?  Dave 

 

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 CC 34+

New London, CT




 

 

 

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 tel:301%20541%208551  


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Re: Stus-List Technical sail discussion

[Ron Casciato via CnC-List]

Dennis:  Now if you want another 9 secondsditch the spinnaker pole and 
declare “no pole” and go straight to your ASYM…Ron C.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2014 8:59 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Technical sail discussion

 

Dennis,

 

My limited understanding of aerodynamics is that if the foot is not on the dock 
then the higher pressure is allowed to leak under the foot to the low 
pressure side, diminishing lift.  That's why they now have tips on airplane 
wings.  If the cabin causes upward deflection, that may be more than offset by 
maintaining the pressure differential.  But either way, you are +6 sec./mile!

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Wed, May 7, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

I recently re-filed my PHRF certificate to get +6 seconds for a roller furler.  
Subsequently, I just had the luff my Mylar/Kevlar 155 cut down to fit on the 
furler.  My sailmaker cut a bunch off the foot.

I was chatting about loosing the sail area with one of the really good sailors 
in the club. He said it may actually be a good thing that the foot is higher 
off the deck. He said with the older narrow IOR designs, deck sweeper genoas 
may cause the slot to be less efficient. Might increase the bubble in the main.

In my simplistic mind I kinda see where he's coming from. The slot gets 
restricted at the deck by the cabin. The lower part of the air flow would get 
pushed upward into the bottom of the main. A higher foot allows some flow to 
escape and keep the air flow lines smooth in the lower slot.

Does this make sense?

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
MandevilleLA

Sent from my iPhone
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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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