Stus-List 35-3 Bimini question

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I am going to try my hand at some canvas work by adding a bimini to my
35-3. I am looking to use a Sailrite kit. Any other 35-3 owners out there
who have done this? Did you use a 2-bow frame, or 3 bow? Mounting from rear
pulpit or deck? I also want to add a flexible 100 W solar panel on top.
Will the 2 bow support it? SailRite said it should, but I am looking for
real world experience:) Any advice is appreciated.

David Swensen
Freya 35-5
Beverly, MA
Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Re: Stus-List 35-3

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Rick,

Wow good to know and thanks for sharing all the details. I’m planning to take 
her to Hawaii eventually but that won’t happen till few years. Need to learn a 
lot first but yes agreed with the wire and rod system. Looks like I have a 
direction now and will start with the forestay.

Thanks again,



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz

“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali


On Jul 25, 2020, at 7:41 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:


Welcome to the list. I know you will like the new boat.

When I installed roller furling on my 38, the manufacturer of the furler 
(Bamar, an Italian company) specifically recommended against installing it on a 
rod forestay. They indicated that dirt could collect in the synthetic bushings 
inside the foil, and that over time as the foil rotated the rod could get 
scored resulting in a stress riser and the potential for early rod failure. It 
seems like a pretty low probability for that type of failure, but they should 
know their product. I installed my furler with a compacted wire (also called 
Dyform wire) headstay. You may want to check with Harken to see what their 
policy is about rod Headstay with their furlers.

Subsequent to installation of the furler, about 9 years ago, I had a D2 shroud 
on the 38 part during a somewhat rough and windy passage across Pamlico Sound. 
Sounded like a 22 caliber rifle going off, and the bottom of the windward D2 
was waving in the wind. Made me question the integrity of the rest of the rod 
rigging, which was about 34 years old at the time.

Navtec indicated that a dye inspection of the rigging was not sufficient 
(perhaps just in my care). The cost to remove the rigging and ship it to Navtec 
for x-ray inspection was in the neighborhood of $3500. If they could rehead and 
reuse it, the cost of reheading would have been extra.

My rigger and I decided to rerig the boat using Dyform wire for the shrouds, 
backstay, and babystay. The wire is a few thousandths larger in diameter than 
the rod replaced (slightly more windage), a few pounds heavier than the rod 
replaced (so slightly more weight aloft, which might be a consideration of you 
are a serious racer), but actually has a slightly higher break strength than 
the rod. Swage fittings for Dyform wire that replace the ends of the rod and 
allowed reuse of turnbuckles, spreader ends, and the OEM mast attachments for 
the shrouds are easily obtainable. We elected to use Norseman fittings on the 
bottom of wire shrouds to simplify the installation.

For the sailing that I do – cruising and the occasional charity regatta – I’m 
very happy with the rerigging. And one of the added benefits was that 
completely replacing the rod with Dyform wire cost only slightly more than what 
having the old rod inspected by Navtec was going to cost.

Of course, YMMV, but replacing old rod with new wire is pretty doable.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
Washington, NC





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mazen Aziz 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2020 3:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mazen Aziz 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3

Hi all,

New 35-3 enterprise owner Here in the Bay Area. Love the boat and want to take 
your opinions here. Boat has original standing riggings and currently going 
thru changing halyards and standing riggings. Few questions,

1- planning to change my forestay twinstay rod with wire system harken furler. 
Is this a good move?
2- back stay is a rod hydrolic system and planning to change the system with a 
wire system too, any recommendations on what to go with?
3- lastly and most important, all the standing riggings are rod and heard it’s 
very challengy to change it to wire. Should I keep it a rod system? Is it smart 
to go half wire for the front/back stay and half rod for the standing riggings?

Appreciate your time here in advance and would love to meet local C&c sailors 
too,



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz


“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford


"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciat

Re: Stus-List 35-3

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Welcome to the list. I know you will like the new boat.

 

When I installed roller furling on my 38, the manufacturer of the furler 
(Bamar, an Italian company) specifically recommended against installing it on a 
rod forestay. They indicated that dirt could collect in the synthetic bushings 
inside the foil, and that over time as the foil rotated the rod could get 
scored resulting in a stress riser and the potential for early rod failure. It 
seems like a pretty low probability for that type of failure, but they should 
know their product. I installed my furler with a compacted wire (also called 
Dyform wire) headstay. You may want to check with Harken to see what their 
policy is about rod Headstay with their furlers.

 

Subsequent to installation of the furler, about 9 years ago, I had a D2 shroud 
on the 38 part during a somewhat rough and windy passage across Pamlico Sound. 
Sounded like a 22 caliber rifle going off, and the bottom of the windward D2 
was waving in the wind. Made me question the integrity of the rest of the rod 
rigging, which was about 34 years old at the time.

 

Navtec indicated that a dye inspection of the rigging was not sufficient 
(perhaps just in my care). The cost to remove the rigging and ship it to Navtec 
for x-ray inspection was in the neighborhood of $3500. If they could rehead and 
reuse it, the cost of reheading would have been extra.

 

My rigger and I decided to rerig the boat using Dyform wire for the shrouds, 
backstay, and babystay. The wire is a few thousandths larger in diameter than 
the rod replaced (slightly more windage), a few pounds heavier than the rod 
replaced (so slightly more weight aloft, which might be a consideration of you 
are a serious racer), but actually has a slightly higher break strength than 
the rod. Swage fittings for Dyform wire that replace the ends of the rod and 
allowed reuse of turnbuckles, spreader ends, and the OEM mast attachments for 
the shrouds are easily obtainable. We elected to use Norseman fittings on the 
bottom of wire shrouds to simplify the installation.

 

For the sailing that I do – cruising and the occasional charity regatta – I’m 
very happy with the rerigging. And one of the added benefits was that 
completely replacing the rod with Dyform wire cost only slightly more than what 
having the old rod inspected by Navtec was going to cost.

 

Of course, YMMV, but replacing old rod with new wire is pretty doable.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mazen Aziz 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2020 3:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mazen Aziz 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3

 

Hi all, 

 

New 35-3 enterprise owner Here in the Bay Area. Love the boat and want to take 
your opinions here. Boat has original standing riggings and currently going 
thru changing halyards and standing riggings. Few questions,

 

1- planning to change my forestay twinstay rod with wire system harken furler. 
Is this a good move?

2- back stay is a rod hydrolic system and planning to change the system with a 
wire system too, any recommendations on what to go with?

3- lastly and most important, all the standing riggings are rod and heard it’s 
very challengy to change it to wire. Should I keep it a rod system? Is it smart 
to go half wire for the front/back stay and half rod for the standing riggings?

 

Appreciate your time here in advance and would love to meet local C&c sailors 
too,

 

 

 

MAZEN AZIZ

https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz





“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford





"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

 

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

 

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Re: Stus-List 35-3

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Very appreciate your recommendations Alan and Dennis. Can’t wait to take her 
sailing.

Ian, I’m in oyster point marina for now by the airport till I move her to 
clippers by you next month. Would you like to go sailing sometime? Mine is 
getting hull out on Monday for the survey and bottom paint but should be back 
in about 10 days.

Mazen Aziz
C&C-3 enterprise
San Francisco



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz



"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

On Jul 24, 2020, at 12:33 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:


OK to change the fore stay to wire when installing a Harken furler.  I removed 
a Hood Seafoil (twin slot rod) from my boat in 1999 and replaced it with a 
Harken furler and wire forestay.  No issues.

Re-head the rest of the rod rigging and keep it rod.  Rod rigging generally 
fails at the head.  The rod is most likely still OK.  The rod can be coiled to 
no LESS than 200 times rod diameter and shipped for re-heading.

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 2:15 PM Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi all,

New 35-3 enterprise owner Here in the Bay Area. Love the boat and want to take 
your opinions here. Boat has original standing riggings and currently going 
thru changing halyards and standing riggings. Few questions,

1- planning to change my forestay twinstay rod with wire system harken furler. 
Is this a good move?
2- back stay is a rod hydrolic system and planning to change the system with a 
wire system too, any recommendations on what to go with?
3- lastly and most important, all the standing riggings are rod and heard it’s 
very challengy to change it to wire. Should I keep it a rod system? Is it smart 
to go half wire for the front/back stay and half rod for the standing riggings?

Appreciate your time here in advance and would love to meet local C&c sailors 
too,



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz

“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List 35-3

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

Hi Mazen

Where in the Bay Area do you keep your boat?

I have a C&C 29-1 which I love. I am based at Paradise Cay near Tiburon.  I
have done many projects on my boat although I never had rod rigging so
never had to worry about that.

Feel free to contact me directly for local information etc.

You’ll love the boat - I am certain

Ian Matthew
C&C 29-1. “Siento el Viento”
San Francisco Bay


On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 12:15 PM Mazen Aziz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> New 35-3 enterprise owner Here in the Bay Area. Love the boat and want to
> take your opinions here. Boat has original standing riggings and currently
> going thru changing halyards and standing riggings. Few questions,
>
> 1- planning to change my forestay twinstay rod with wire system harken
> furler. Is this a good move?
> 2- back stay is a rod hydrolic system and planning to change the system
> with a wire system too, any recommendations on what to go with?
> 3- lastly and most important, all the standing riggings are rod and heard
> it’s very challengy to change it to wire. Should I keep it a rod system? Is
> it smart to go half wire for the front/back stay and half rod for the
> standing riggings?
>
> Appreciate your time here in advance and would love to meet local C&c
> sailors too,
>
>
>
> MAZEN AZIZ
> *https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz
> *
>
> “To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky
> is home. “Jerry Crawford
>
> "I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a
> very simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to
> make you think." Zaha Hadid
>
> "It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble
> in your shoe." Muhammad Ali
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List 35-3

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Welcome to the group Mazen. You'll get a lot of information here. There is
also a C&C group on Facebook: C&C Sailboat Owners Group.
Wire forestay is ok with the new furler. Baby stay can also be wire.
Keep the rod rigging for the rest of the boat. If you have any concerns,
the rigging can be reheaded.
If you have any concerns about the hydraulics, Contact Lew Townsend in
Seattle (206) 498-7282.

Good luck with your new boat. BTW, when you sign off, list your name, boat
model, boat name and your location. It's helpful when people respond for
them to know what you're talking about. Replying about one boat model, may
not be the same advice someone would give for another one.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 12:15 PM Mazen Aziz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> New 35-3 enterprise owner Here in the Bay Area. Love the boat and want to
> take your opinions here. Boat has original standing riggings and currently
> going thru changing halyards and standing riggings. Few questions,
>
> 1- planning to change my forestay twinstay rod with wire system harken
> furler. Is this a good move?
> 2- back stay is a rod hydrolic system and planning to change the system
> with a wire system too, any recommendations on what to go with?
> 3- lastly and most important, all the standing riggings are rod and heard
> it’s very challengy to change it to wire. Should I keep it a rod system? Is
> it smart to go half wire for the front/back stay and half rod for the
> standing riggings?
>
> Appreciate your time here in advance and would love to meet local C&c
> sailors too,
>
>
>
> MAZEN AZIZ
> *https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz
> *
>
> “To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky
> is home. “Jerry Crawford
>
> "I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a
> very simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to
> make you think." Zaha Hadid
>
> "It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble
> in your shoe." Muhammad Ali
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7KwQnn7a8ZfdewFSPLAeHu1SIZAcI5Fdi7Vya4_X5Byo8hxQ8FI_5hYN_jLBpyIuYTo$
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 35-3

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

OK to change the fore stay to wire when installing a Harken furler.  I
removed a Hood Seafoil (twin slot rod) from my boat in 1999 and replaced it
with a Harken furler and wire forestay.  No issues.

Re-head the rest of the rod rigging and keep it rod.  Rod rigging generally
fails at the head.  The rod is most likely still OK.  The rod can be coiled
to no LESS than 200 times rod diameter and shipped for re-heading.

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 2:15 PM Mazen Aziz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> New 35-3 enterprise owner Here in the Bay Area. Love the boat and want to
> take your opinions here. Boat has original standing riggings and currently
> going thru changing halyards and standing riggings. Few questions,
>
> 1- planning to change my forestay twinstay rod with wire system harken
> furler. Is this a good move?
> 2- back stay is a rod hydrolic system and planning to change the system
> with a wire system too, any recommendations on what to go with?
> 3- lastly and most important, all the standing riggings are rod and heard
> it’s very challengy to change it to wire. Should I keep it a rod system? Is
> it smart to go half wire for the front/back stay and half rod for the
> standing riggings?
>
> Appreciate your time here in advance and would love to meet local C&c
> sailors too,
>
>
>
> MAZEN AZIZ
> *https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz
> *
>
> “To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky
> is home. “Jerry Crawford
>
> "I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a
> very simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to
> make you think." Zaha Hadid
>
> "It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble
> in your shoe." Muhammad Ali
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List 35-3

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Hi all,

New 35-3 enterprise owner Here in the Bay Area. Love the boat and want to take 
your opinions here. Boat has original standing riggings and currently going 
thru changing halyards and standing riggings. Few questions,

1- planning to change my forestay twinstay rod with wire system harken furler. 
Is this a good move?
2- back stay is a rod hydrolic system and planning to change the system with a 
wire system too, any recommendations on what to go with?
3- lastly and most important, all the standing riggings are rod and heard it’s 
very challengy to change it to wire. Should I keep it a rod system? Is it smart 
to go half wire for the front/back stay and half rod for the standing riggings?

Appreciate your time here in advance and would love to meet local C&c sailors 
too,



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz

“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I use the Rig-Rite NGA-19 (large rubber) wedges on my 30 MK I and the damned 
things still fall out.  I’m warming up to the idea of a spar-tite plug  - but 
now thanks to Joe I’ve got muffin-top images in my head :)

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jun 3, 2020, at 11:11 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Rig-Rite has rubber wedges.
> https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_wedges.php
> 
> Chuck
> 
> 
>> On June 3, 2020 at 12:38 PM rick bushie via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I use rubber wedges on my 30-1. I don’t remember where I sourced them but 
>> google is your friend. My mast boot is constructed from a tire inner tube 
>> and contact cement. Works great.
>> 
>> Rick Bushie
>> Anchovy
>> 1971 30-1
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Rig-Rite has rubber wedges.
https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_wedges.php

Chuck


> On June 3, 2020 at 12:38 PM rick bushie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I use rubber wedges on my 30-1. I don’t remember where I sourced them but 
> google is your friend. My mast boot is constructed from a tire inner tube and 
> contact cement. Works great.
> 
> Rick Bushie
> Anchovy
> 1971 30-1
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[rick bushie via CnC-List]

I use rubber wedges on my 30-1. I don’t remember where I sourced them but 
google is your friend. My mast boot is constructed from a tire inner tube and 
contact cement. Works great.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy
1971 30-1
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

The sticking to the mast part works great unless you need to remove the plug 
for some reason (as I have -- twice).  When I removed the plug on the 42 mast, 
it took the paint with it.  I had previously removed one from my 34 unpainted 
mast, and used KY jelly (water soluble) to help get it off.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2020 12:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

 

I think the idea when you set it up is to sand the mast a bit to make it rough 
and spray mold release or coat the collar with Vaseline so it sticks to the 
mast but not the boat. 

If I ever redo mine I am going to make a “muffin top” to keep water out better. 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com <http://www.dellabarba.com> 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I think the idea when you set it up is to sand the mast a bit to make it rough 
and spray mold release or coat the collar with Vaseline so it sticks to the 
mast but not the boat.
If I ever redo mine I am going to make a “muffin top” to keep water out better.

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com


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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Spar-tite is supposed to work for annual un-stepping/re-stepping, but I share 
your concern.  I especially like the first time the mast comes out and the 
Spar-tite plug “lets go” of the boat, creating a 60-foot pogostick.

 

For what it’s worth, the last time I removed my mast with the Spar-tite plug 
was about two years ago.  When I tried to re-step the mast, something wasn’t 
fitting right, and my fellow boat owners who shared the crane rental (and are 
very efficient to keep costs down) were getting perturbed with the delay.  As a 
result, I pounded the Spar-tite plug off so we could step the mast without it. 
A day or two later, I cut the plug into two pieces and tried to install them.  
Not quite.  I then cut one of the halves in half (more or less), and the full 
half and half-half (quarter) then fit into place.  The last quarter was still a 
real bugger, so I used a grinder to grind a little bit off here and there until 
I could pound it in place.  It’s snug.  I then used silicone to seal up the 
small openings between the pieces, and voila!  I basically have Spar-tite 
wedges.  I’ve been out in some nasty weather since and did not see any movement.

 

Good luck. 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Luke Wolbrink via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2020 10:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Luke Wolbrink 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

 

Hello Fellow C&C'ers,

 

Things here in Chicago are finally opening up and I'm anticipating being able 
to re-step my mast for 2020 pretty soon. When I pulled the mast in Fall the 
wooden wedges at the partners were pretty beat up (probably original 1985) and 
I hate to continue re-using them. Any suggestions on what to use that might be 
better? I un-step the mast every year so trying to avoid spar-tite if possible.

 

Thanks,

Luke

C&C 35-3 "Zella"

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I would take the spar down in my 39 every year, and SparTite worked splendidly 
for that.  Just make sure you clean the mast good around the partners so it 
sticks good, and make sure you put some Vaseline or something on the collar so 
it comes out.  Also make sure it doesn’t taper towards the bottom, which would 
make it hard to remove.   If it is a little tight the first time you remove it, 
you can sand some off.  If you are creative with clay, you can make a little 
lip down past  the collar, so it won’t leak down the joint.  I could never go 
back to wedges.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Luke 
Wolbrink via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2020 10:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Luke Wolbrink
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

 

Hello Fellow C&C'ers,

 

Things here in Chicago are finally opening up and I'm anticipating being able 
to re-step my mast for 2020 pretty soon. When I pulled the mast in Fall the 
wooden wedges at the partners were pretty beat up (probably original 1985) and 
I hate to continue re-using them. Any suggestions on what to use that might be 
better? I un-step the mast every year so trying to avoid spar-tite if possible.

 

Thanks,

Luke

C&C 35-3 "Zella"

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I used urethane from Spar-Tight and it works 1,000 times better than 
wood wedges IMHO. It is a bit of a pain to set up though.


Joe

Coquina 35 MK I

On 6/3/2020 10:57 AM, Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Fellow C&C'ers,

Things here in Chicago are finally opening up and I'm anticipating 
being able to re-step my mast for 2020 pretty soon. When I pulled the 
mast in Fall the wooden wedges at the partners were pretty beat up 
(probably original 1985) and I hate to continue re-using them. Any 
suggestions on what to use that might be better? I un-step the mast 
every year so trying to avoid spar-tite if possible.


Thanks,
Luke
C&C 35-3 "Zella"

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Hello Fellow C&C'ers,

Things here in Chicago are finally opening up and I'm anticipating being
able to re-step my mast for 2020 pretty soon. When I pulled the mast in
Fall the wooden wedges at the partners were pretty beat up (probably
original 1985) and I hate to continue re-using them. Any suggestions on
what to use that might be better? I un-step the mast every year so trying
to avoid spar-tite if possible.

Thanks,
Luke
C&C 35-3 "Zella"
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

FWIW – I tack right to the casting.  I don’t take a rating hit being more than 
12” past the forestay and I didn’t have to buy a bigger spin to fit the 
configuration.   However, it is pretty tight to do inside gybes.  Again, I’m 
short handed and doing distance stuff, so a little slower outside gybe isn’t a 
big deal.

 

I do have a Seldon bow sprit for sale if you want it.  

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Luke Wolbrink via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2019 8:01 AM
To: Bruno Lachance 
Cc: Luke Wolbrink ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

 

I guess the only other question is how do you arrange the sprit? The forestay 
is almost a foot back from the pointy end where there is a heavy aluminum 
casting and the fairleads to the bow cleats. I can't see a way to run a 
retractable sprit through all that mess. Or do you just drill a hole in that 
aluminum casting and attach a block for the tack?

 

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:55 AM Bruno Lachance mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com> > wrote:

Luke,

The possibility to safely furl from the cockpit and then go forward only to 
handle a thightly furled sail is a big plus indeed compared to the situations 
you described, that do happen with a snuffer.

 

Bruno Lachance.


Envoyé de mon iPad


Le 9 août 2019 à 09:45, Luke Wolbrink mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com> > a écrit :

Thanks for clarifying Bruno, we mostly do distance races like the Mac and some 
shorter stuff but seldom less than 15miles, I avoid bouy races other than 
wednesdays when it's not super stressful anyways. We end up loosing more time 
screwing up the hoist/douse and simplifying is a big deal. The admiral would 
like to be able to cruise easier too. We have a snuffer for the symmetrical but 
it gets jammed and I hate having crew on the foredeck with both hands in the 
air fiddling around with a dousing line, seems like a good way to do an 
unanticipated man overboard drill. 

 

I"Ve got an 85 mk-iii and the mast says it's by C&C which is why I thought it 
was hopeless, I'll reach out to Klacko today!

 

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:37 AM Bruno Lachance mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com> > wrote:

Hi Luke,

 

If you're 33-2 is older than '86, you probably have the C&C extrusion and 
Klacko in Ontario should be able to help you with a solution. If ´86 or newer, 
the mast would be an Offshore spar.

 

The furler is slower because it takes some time to furl the sail opposed to 
pull the sock down. Pure racers would not used any of those, but for 
recreational I doubt there is a difference. Depending of the furler, it could 
be more complicated to be able to adjust the tack line, mine is fixed on a 
Facnor. 

 

The furler will always furl, torque rope quality is important here. But if you 
want a "clean" furl that will then unfurled properly, you need to uses it of 
caution and keep some tension on the sheet. Not problem cruising, but For more 
heated situation at a mark rounding, not always ideal. The sock will do the job 
quickly, unless it is jammed, but with a good one like an ATN, it's very 
unlikely to happen if handled properly.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Bruno Lachance 

Bécassine,33-2

New-Richmond,Qc


Envoyé de mon iPad


Le 9 août 2019 à 09:11, Luke Wolbrink mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com> > a écrit :

Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I ditch 
the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just assumed they 
were out of business.  

 

Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or just 
the time to roll and unroll vs douse?

 

Thanks again,

Luke

 

On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com> > wrote:

Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a selden 
bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the mast. If you 
choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for the top swivel. It 
gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a 1987 with a mast made 
by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from them. 

 

The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good sock 
would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.

 

Love the bowsprit!

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33-2

NewRichmond 

Envoyé de mon iPad


Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > a écrit :

Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin halyards 
out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer distance races 
I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less crew needed.   

 

I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   >From those that I 
know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.   

 

If racing, check with you local rating officials to mak

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I mentioned reliability, not speed.  Both the sock and furler have their issues 
and get hung up once in a while.  As Bruno mentioned, they are also slower for 
the transitions than traditional drops/hoists.  

 

Speed in changing sails isn’t as big of an issue since I do more distance 
races.  I am also typically shorthanded these days (IE; 1-2 people) so nothing 
is fast.  Some way to snuff does help that scenario but it’s good practice to 
know how to douse the spin without those devices.

 

Let me know what the mast manufacturers suggest for adding a crane.  My 
solution isn’t pretty, but it’s worked well for 15 yrs  

 

I’m on Lake Superior and we follow LMPHRF too.  In the past they have struggled 
with rating boats that change sail configurations like this, but their current 
solution seems reasonable.  

 

Pete

C&C37

Bayfield, WI

 

 

 

From: Luke Wolbrink  
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2019 7:12 AM
To: Bruno Lachance 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; PETE SHELQUIST 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

 

Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I ditch 
the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just assumed they 
were out of business. 

 

Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or just 
the time to roll and unroll vs douse?

 

Thanks again,

Luke

 

On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com> > wrote:

Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a selden 
bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the mast. If you 
choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for the top swivel. It 
gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a 1987 with a mast made 
by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from them. 

 

The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good sock 
would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.

 

Love the bowsprit!

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33-2

NewRichmond 

Envoyé de mon iPad


Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > a écrit :

Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin halyards 
out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer distance races 
I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less crew needed.   

 

I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   >From those that I 
know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.   

 

If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you understand 
the adjustments that will be applied.  

 

Hope that helps.

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Luke Wolbrink mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

 

Hello Folks,

 

I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an asymmetrical 
system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that have done a 
similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?

 

One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the 
spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a top-down 
furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have any of you 
added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?

 

Thanks in advance,

Luke

SV Zella C&C 35-3

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Luke, i will take pictures and come back to you.

Bruno.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 9 août 2019 à 10:00, Luke Wolbrink 
mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>> a écrit :

I guess the only other question is how do you arrange the sprit? The forestay 
is almost a foot back from the pointy end where there is a heavy aluminum 
casting and the fairleads to the bow cleats. I can't see a way to run a 
retractable sprit through all that mess. Or do you just drill a hole in that 
aluminum casting and attach a block for the tack?

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:55 AM Bruno Lachance 
mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
Luke,
The possibility to safely furl from the cockpit and then go forward only to 
handle a thightly furled sail is a big plus indeed compared to the situations 
you described, that do happen with a snuffer.

Bruno Lachance.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 9 août 2019 à 09:45, Luke Wolbrink 
mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>> a écrit :

Thanks for clarifying Bruno, we mostly do distance races like the Mac and some 
shorter stuff but seldom less than 15miles, I avoid bouy races other than 
wednesdays when it's not super stressful anyways. We end up loosing more time 
screwing up the hoist/douse and simplifying is a big deal. The admiral would 
like to be able to cruise easier too. We have a snuffer for the symmetrical but 
it gets jammed and I hate having crew on the foredeck with both hands in the 
air fiddling around with a dousing line, seems like a good way to do an 
unanticipated man overboard drill.

I"Ve got an 85 mk-iii and the mast says it's by C&C which is why I thought it 
was hopeless, I'll reach out to Klacko today!

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:37 AM Bruno Lachance 
mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
Hi Luke,

If you're 33-2 is older than '86, you probably have the C&C extrusion and 
Klacko in Ontario should be able to help you with a solution. If ´86 or newer, 
the mast would be an Offshore spar.

The furler is slower because it takes some time to furl the sail opposed to 
pull the sock down. Pure racers would not used any of those, but for 
recreational I doubt there is a difference. Depending of the furler, it could 
be more complicated to be able to adjust the tack line, mine is fixed on a 
Facnor.

The furler will always furl, torque rope quality is important here. But if you 
want a "clean" furl that will then unfurled properly, you need to uses it of 
caution and keep some tension on the sheet. Not problem cruising, but For more 
heated situation at a mark rounding, not always ideal. The sock will do the job 
quickly, unless it is jammed, but with a good one like an ATN, it's very 
unlikely to happen if handled properly.

Hope that helps.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine,33-2
New-Richmond,Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 9 août 2019 à 09:11, Luke Wolbrink 
mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>> a écrit :

Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I ditch 
the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just assumed they 
were out of business.

Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or just 
the time to roll and unroll vs douse?

Thanks again,
Luke

On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance 
mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a selden 
bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the mast. If you 
choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for the top swivel. It 
gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a 1987 with a mast made 
by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from them.

The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good sock 
would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.

Love the bowsprit!

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
NewRichmond

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin halyards 
out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer distance races 
I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less crew needed.

I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   From those that I know 
that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.

If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you understand 
the adjustments that will be applied.

Hope that helps.

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Luke Wolbrink mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

Hello Folks,

I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an asymmetrical 
system. I'm interested in a

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

I guess the only other question is how do you arrange the sprit? The
forestay is almost a foot back from the pointy end where there is a heavy
aluminum casting and the fairleads to the bow cleats. I can't see a way to
run a retractable sprit through all that mess. Or do you just drill a hole
in that aluminum casting and attach a block for the tack?

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:55 AM Bruno Lachance 
wrote:

> Luke,
> The possibility to safely furl from the cockpit and then go forward only
> to handle a thightly furled sail is a big plus indeed compared to the
> situations you described, that do happen with a snuffer.
>
> Bruno Lachance.
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
> Le 9 août 2019 à 09:45, Luke Wolbrink  a écrit :
>
> Thanks for clarifying Bruno, we mostly do distance races like the Mac and
> some shorter stuff but seldom less than 15miles, I avoid bouy races other
> than wednesdays when it's not super stressful anyways. We end up loosing
> more time screwing up the hoist/douse and simplifying is a big deal. The
> admiral would like to be able to cruise easier too. We have a snuffer for
> the symmetrical but it gets jammed and I hate having crew on the foredeck
> with both hands in the air fiddling around with a dousing line, seems like
> a good way to do an unanticipated man overboard drill.
>
> I"Ve got an 85 mk-iii and the mast says it's by C&C which is why I thought
> it was hopeless, I'll reach out to Klacko today!
>
> On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:37 AM Bruno Lachance 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Luke,
>>
>> If you're 33-2 is older than '86, you probably have the C&C extrusion and
>> Klacko in Ontario should be able to help you with a solution. If ´86 or
>> newer, the mast would be an Offshore spar.
>>
>> The furler is slower because it takes some time to furl the sail opposed
>> to pull the sock down. Pure racers would not used any of those, but for
>> recreational I doubt there is a difference. Depending of the furler, it
>> could be more complicated to be able to adjust the tack line, mine is fixed
>> on a Facnor.
>>
>> The furler will always furl, torque rope quality is important here. But
>> if you want a "clean" furl that will then unfurled properly, you need to
>> uses it of caution and keep some tension on the sheet. Not problem
>> cruising, but For more heated situation at a mark rounding, not always
>> ideal. The sock will do the job quickly, unless it is jammed, but with a
>> good one like an ATN, it's very unlikely to happen if handled properly.
>>
>> Hope that helps.
>>
>> Bruno Lachance
>> Bécassine,33-2
>> New-Richmond,Qc
>>
>> Envoyé de mon iPad
>>
>> Le 9 août 2019 à 09:11, Luke Wolbrink  a écrit :
>>
>> Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I
>> ditch the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just
>> assumed they were out of business.
>>
>> Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or
>> just the time to roll and unroll vs douse?
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Luke
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a
>>> selden bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the
>>> mast. If you choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for
>>> the top swivel. It gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a
>>> 1987 with a mast made by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from
>>> them.
>>>
>>> The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good
>>> sock would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.
>>>
>>> Love the bowsprit!
>>>
>>> Bruno Lachance
>>> Bécassine, 33-2
>>> NewRichmond
>>>
>>> Envoyé de mon iPad
>>>
>>> Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> a écrit :
>>>
>>> Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin
>>> halyards out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer
>>> distance races I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less
>>> crew needed.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   From those that
>>> I know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> If racing, check with you local rating officials to 

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Luke,
The possibility to safely furl from the cockpit and then go forward only to 
handle a thightly furled sail is a big plus indeed compared to the situations 
you described, that do happen with a snuffer.

Bruno Lachance.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 9 août 2019 à 09:45, Luke Wolbrink 
mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>> a écrit :

Thanks for clarifying Bruno, we mostly do distance races like the Mac and some 
shorter stuff but seldom less than 15miles, I avoid bouy races other than 
wednesdays when it's not super stressful anyways. We end up loosing more time 
screwing up the hoist/douse and simplifying is a big deal. The admiral would 
like to be able to cruise easier too. We have a snuffer for the symmetrical but 
it gets jammed and I hate having crew on the foredeck with both hands in the 
air fiddling around with a dousing line, seems like a good way to do an 
unanticipated man overboard drill.

I"Ve got an 85 mk-iii and the mast says it's by C&C which is why I thought it 
was hopeless, I'll reach out to Klacko today!

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:37 AM Bruno Lachance 
mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
Hi Luke,

If you're 33-2 is older than '86, you probably have the C&C extrusion and 
Klacko in Ontario should be able to help you with a solution. If ´86 or newer, 
the mast would be an Offshore spar.

The furler is slower because it takes some time to furl the sail opposed to 
pull the sock down. Pure racers would not used any of those, but for 
recreational I doubt there is a difference. Depending of the furler, it could 
be more complicated to be able to adjust the tack line, mine is fixed on a 
Facnor.

The furler will always furl, torque rope quality is important here. But if you 
want a "clean" furl that will then unfurled properly, you need to uses it of 
caution and keep some tension on the sheet. Not problem cruising, but For more 
heated situation at a mark rounding, not always ideal. The sock will do the job 
quickly, unless it is jammed, but with a good one like an ATN, it's very 
unlikely to happen if handled properly.

Hope that helps.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine,33-2
New-Richmond,Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 9 août 2019 à 09:11, Luke Wolbrink 
mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>> a écrit :

Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I ditch 
the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just assumed they 
were out of business.

Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or just 
the time to roll and unroll vs douse?

Thanks again,
Luke

On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance 
mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a selden 
bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the mast. If you 
choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for the top swivel. It 
gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a 1987 with a mast made 
by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from them.

The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good sock 
would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.

Love the bowsprit!

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
NewRichmond

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin halyards 
out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer distance races 
I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less crew needed.

I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   From those that I know 
that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.

If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you understand 
the adjustments that will be applied.

Hope that helps.

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Luke Wolbrink mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

Hello Folks,

I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an asymmetrical 
system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that have done a 
similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?

One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the 
spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a top-down 
furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have any of you 
added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?

Thanks in advance,
Luke
SV Zella C&C 35-3
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every on

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Thanks for clarifying Bruno, we mostly do distance races like the Mac and
some shorter stuff but seldom less than 15miles, I avoid bouy races other
than wednesdays when it's not super stressful anyways. We end up loosing
more time screwing up the hoist/douse and simplifying is a big deal. The
admiral would like to be able to cruise easier too. We have a snuffer for
the symmetrical but it gets jammed and I hate having crew on the foredeck
with both hands in the air fiddling around with a dousing line, seems like
a good way to do an unanticipated man overboard drill.

I"Ve got an 85 mk-iii and the mast says it's by C&C which is why I thought
it was hopeless, I'll reach out to Klacko today!

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 7:37 AM Bruno Lachance 
wrote:

> Hi Luke,
>
> If you're 33-2 is older than '86, you probably have the C&C extrusion and
> Klacko in Ontario should be able to help you with a solution. If ´86 or
> newer, the mast would be an Offshore spar.
>
> The furler is slower because it takes some time to furl the sail opposed
> to pull the sock down. Pure racers would not used any of those, but for
> recreational I doubt there is a difference. Depending of the furler, it
> could be more complicated to be able to adjust the tack line, mine is fixed
> on a Facnor.
>
> The furler will always furl, torque rope quality is important here. But if
> you want a "clean" furl that will then unfurled properly, you need to uses
> it of caution and keep some tension on the sheet. Not problem cruising, but
> For more heated situation at a mark rounding, not always ideal. The sock
> will do the job quickly, unless it is jammed, but with a good one like an
> ATN, it's very unlikely to happen if handled properly.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine,33-2
> New-Richmond,Qc
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
> Le 9 août 2019 à 09:11, Luke Wolbrink  a écrit :
>
> Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I
> ditch the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just
> assumed they were out of business.
>
> Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or
> just the time to roll and unroll vs douse?
>
> Thanks again,
> Luke
>
> On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a
>> selden bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the
>> mast. If you choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for
>> the top swivel. It gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a
>> 1987 with a mast made by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from
>> them.
>>
>> The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good
>> sock would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.
>>
>> Love the bowsprit!
>>
>> Bruno Lachance
>> Bécassine, 33-2
>> NewRichmond
>>
>> Envoyé de mon iPad
>>
>> Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> a écrit :
>>
>> Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin
>> halyards out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer
>> distance races I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less
>> crew needed.
>>
>>
>>
>> I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   From those that
>> I know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.
>>
>>
>>
>> If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you
>> understand the adjustments that will be applied.
>>
>>
>>
>> Hope that helps.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Luke
>> Wolbrink via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Luke Wolbrink 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello Folks,
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an
>> asymmetrical system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that
>> have done a similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?
>>
>>
>>
>> One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the
>> spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a
>> top-down furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have
>> any of you added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Luke
>>
>> SV Zella C&C 35-3
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi Luke,

If you're 33-2 is older than '86, you probably have the C&C extrusion and 
Klacko in Ontario should be able to help you with a solution. If ´86 or newer, 
the mast would be an Offshore spar.

The furler is slower because it takes some time to furl the sail opposed to 
pull the sock down. Pure racers would not used any of those, but for 
recreational I doubt there is a difference. Depending of the furler, it could 
be more complicated to be able to adjust the tack line, mine is fixed on a 
Facnor.

The furler will always furl, torque rope quality is important here. But if you 
want a "clean" furl that will then unfurled properly, you need to uses it of 
caution and keep some tension on the sheet. Not problem cruising, but For more 
heated situation at a mark rounding, not always ideal. The sock will do the job 
quickly, unless it is jammed, but with a good one like an ATN, it's very 
unlikely to happen if handled properly.

Hope that helps.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine,33-2
New-Richmond,Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 9 août 2019 à 09:11, Luke Wolbrink 
mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>> a écrit :

Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I ditch 
the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just assumed they 
were out of business.

Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or just 
the time to roll and unroll vs douse?

Thanks again,
Luke

On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance 
mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a selden 
bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the mast. If you 
choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for the top swivel. It 
gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a 1987 with a mast made 
by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from them.

The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good sock 
would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.

Love the bowsprit!

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
NewRichmond

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin halyards 
out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer distance races 
I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less crew needed.

I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   From those that I know 
that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.

If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you understand 
the adjustments that will be applied.

Hope that helps.

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Luke Wolbrink mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

Hello Folks,

I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an asymmetrical 
system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that have done a 
similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?

One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the 
spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a top-down 
furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have any of you 
added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?

Thanks in advance,
Luke
SV Zella C&C 35-3
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Thanks for the responses. The local phrf will give me a 6s credit if I
ditch the pole, which is surprising. I'll look up the mast mfr, I just
assumed they were out of business.

Pete, why do you say the furler is slower? Does if affect boat speed or
just the time to roll and unroll vs douse?

Thanks again,
Luke

On Thu, Aug 8, 2019, 8:42 PM Bruno Lachance 
wrote:

> Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a
> selden bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the
> mast. If you choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for
> the top swivel. It gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a
> 1987 with a mast made by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from
> them.
>
> The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good
> sock would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.
>
> Love the bowsprit!
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33-2
> NewRichmond
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
> Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> a écrit :
>
> Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin
> halyards out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer
> distance races I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less
> crew needed.
>
>
>
> I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   >From those that I
> know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.
>
>
>
> If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you
> understand the adjustments that will be applied.
>
>
>
> Hope that helps.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Luke
> Wolbrink via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Luke Wolbrink 
> *Subject:* Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion
>
>
>
> Hello Folks,
>
>
>
> I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an
> asymmetrical system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that
> have done a similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?
>
>
>
> One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the
> spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a
> top-down furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have
> any of you added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Luke
>
> SV Zella C&C 35-3
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi, i installed an asym kit on my 33-2few years ago: big running asym, a selden 
bowsprit, facnor furler and yes, I installed the crane/bail on the mast. If you 
choose to go with a furler, you will need that clearance for the top swivel. It 
gets crowded up there with the jib furled. My boat is a 1987 with a mast made 
by Offshore, I ordered the spinnaker mast bail from them.

The furler is safe tu use singlehanded, but slow and expensive. A good sock 
would be my choice because it is faster for racing short handed.

Love the bowsprit!

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
NewRichmond

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 8 août 2019 à 20:37, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin halyards 
out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer distance races 
I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less crew needed.

I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   From those that I know 
that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.

If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you understand 
the adjustments that will be applied.

Hope that helps.

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Luke Wolbrink mailto:luke.wolbr...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

Hello Folks,

I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an asymmetrical 
system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that have done a 
similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?

One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the 
spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a top-down 
furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have any of you 
added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?

Thanks in advance,
Luke
SV Zella C&C 35-3
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Yes, I added an aluminum plate on the top of the mast to get the spin halyards 
out past the forestay.  I also fly only Asyms.   For the longer distance races 
I sail I wouldn’t go back to sym.  Simple, fast and less crew needed.   

 

I don’t use a top down furler so can’t help you there.   >From those that I 
know that do, a sock has same reliability and a lot cheaper.   

 

If racing, check with you local rating officials to make sure you understand 
the adjustments that will be applied.  

 

Hope that helps.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Luke Wolbrink via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2019 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Luke Wolbrink 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

 

Hello Folks,

 

I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an asymmetrical 
system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that have done a 
similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?

 

One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the 
spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a top-down 
furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have any of you 
added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?

 

Thanks in advance,

Luke

SV Zella C&C 35-3

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Try Rig Rite:   https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/MH_Spinnaker_bails.php 
  They should 
have something that will fit your boat.  

All the best, 

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA



> On Aug 8, 2019, at 6:10 PM, Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello Folks,
> 
> I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an asymmetrical 
> system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that have done a 
> similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?
> 
> One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the 
> spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a top-down 
> furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have any of you 
> added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Luke
> SV Zella C&C 35-3
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 35-3 Asym Conversion

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Hello Folks,

I'm considering simplifying things on my 35-3 and changing to an
asymmetrical system. I'm interested in any information from folks here that
have done a similar conversion: positives, negatives, cautionary tales?

One thing I'm concerned about is that my mast does not have a crane, the
spinnaker halyards exit right next to the genoa halyard. If I add a
top-down furler I'm nervous everthing is gonna get a bit congested. Have
any of you added a masthead crane to move the halyards out a bit?

Thanks in advance,
Luke
SV Zella C&C 35-3
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Serious good sails if u  think u need them. The 35 C&C designs dont need
nuch to mske em go fast; i mean real good. A damn good hull design by olde
George. Thank you George. Many times over. Ok

On Thu, Dec 13, 2018 at 12:18 PM Douglas Allardyce via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Luke,
> Congratulations on your new boat. The 35-III is a great boat. I day sailed
> and raced my 35 for five years and loved every minute I was on the water. I
> used the inboard genoa track you mentioned in for the #1 in light air to
> point a little higher. I had a second lead I just snapped on the sail,
> and used my secondary winch.
> I recently purchased a C&C 41, so I sold my 35. Between the new owner and
> a few other 35-III owners I sold most of my sail inventory. If your
> interested, I still have a all most new (used about 6 times) symmetrical
> spinnaker for sale. Contact me at doug.allard...@gmail.com  if your
> interested I'm in Detroit.
>
>
> Doug Allardyce
> C&C 35 III
> "BULLET"
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Luke
> Wolbrink via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 12, 2018 12:49 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Luke Wolbrink
> *Subject:* Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track
>
> Hello All,
>
> I recently purchased a new to me 35-3 and an very excited for the coming
> spring and am grateful to this board. I did have a question about the
> 'upper' genoa tracks on the 35-3 that are about 2' long and mounted on the
> cockpit coamings just aft of the cabin. I assume that these are for sheet
> leads with the 155% headsail up and pointing as high as possible. My
> question is how do you transition from using a block here do the lower main
> track when you fall off to a reach or downwind?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
> Luke wolbrink
> 1985 C&C 35-3 Mr. JJ
> Chicago, IL
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track

[Douglas Allardyce via CnC-List]

Luke,
Congratulations on your new boat. The 35-III is a great boat. I day sailed and 
raced my 35 for five years and loved every minute I was on the water. I used 
the inboard genoa track you mentioned in for the #1 in light air to point a 
little higher. I had a second lead I just snapped on the sail, and used my 
secondary winch.
I recently purchased a C&C 41, so I sold my 35. Between the new owner and a few 
other 35-III owners I sold most of my sail inventory. If your interested, I 
still have a all most new (used about 6 times) symmetrical spinnaker for sale. 
Contact me at doug.allard...@gmail.com  if your interested I'm in Detroit.

Doug Allardyce 
C&C 35 III 
"BULLET" 



  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Luke 
Wolbrink via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 12:49 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Luke Wolbrink
  Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track


  Hello All,


  I recently purchased a new to me 35-3 and an very excited for the coming 
spring and am grateful to this board. I did have a question about the 'upper' 
genoa tracks on the 35-3 that are about 2' long and mounted on the cockpit 
coamings just aft of the cabin. I assume that these are for sheet leads with 
the 155% headsail up and pointing as high as possible. My question is how do 
you transition from using a block here do the lower main track when you fall 
off to a reach or downwind?


  Any advice would be appreciated.


  Cheers,
  Luke wolbrink
  1985 C&C 35-3 Mr. JJ
  Chicago, IL___

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

That is normally  under dodger  so will not use unless I take that off for 
racing but would need to see what we are speaking of as I have never used a 2nd 
track either ?  So just attach a second line and trim hard  without backwinding 
the main right ?
Thanks all
John C
s/v halcyon



From: Luke Wolbrink 
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 7:14:29 PM
To: John Conklin
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; PETE SHELQUIST
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track

Yes, that's it. Sounds like it's for eeking out a few more degrees to windward 
and you can switch to/from like you would a barber hauler by attaching a 
temporary secondary sheet to the sail and trimming with that while the primary 
goes slack.

On Wed, Dec 12, 2018, 6:10 PM John Conklin 
mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com> wrote:
[cid:image003.jpg@01D4924E.52BB7BB0]
You are speaking of this small track ? My PO did not know what this was for ?

John C

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of PETE SHELQUIST via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 1:55:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: PETE SHELQUIST; Luke Wolbrink
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track


Luke -

I use the inner track for my light #1.  it's a bit of a nuisance since the car 
is not easily adjustable like the primary jib cars.  I still like it and 
believe it gives us a little more point.


to change jib cars to the primary track, either for the same sail or a headsail 
change, just run a second sheet (IE a changing sheet) through the new car and 
back to your secondary winch.   If you don't have secondaries, let go of the 
primary and grind in on new sheet as quick as you can.


If the main is getting backwinded too much it's a sign that the inside track 
shouldn't be used.   If you're overpowered or at the wind limits of the sail is 
also a sign to change sails & track.


Hope that helps.




On December 12, 2018 at 6:49 PM Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hello All,

I recently purchased a new to me 35-3 and an very excited for the coming spring 
and am grateful to this board. I did have a question about the 'upper' genoa 
tracks on the 35-3 that are about 2' long and mounted on the cockpit coamings 
just aft of the cabin. I assume that these are for sheet leads with the 155% 
headsail up and pointing as high as possible. My question is how do you 
transition from using a block here do the lower main track when you fall off to 
a reach or downwind?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Luke wolbrink
1985 C&C 35-3 Mr. JJ
Chicago, IL
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track

[PETE SHELQUIST via CnC-List]

Luke -

I use the inner track for my light #1.  it's a bit of a nuisance since the car 
is not easily adjustable like the primary jib cars.  I still like it and 
believe it gives us a little more point.


to change jib cars to the primary track, either for the same sail or a headsail 
change, just run a second sheet (IE a changing sheet) through the new car and 
back to your secondary winch.   If you don't have secondaries, let go of the 
primary and grind in on new sheet as quick as you can. 


If the main is getting backwinded too much it's a sign that the inside track 
shouldn't be used.   If you're overpowered or at the wind limits of the sail is 
also a sign to change sails & track.


Hope that helps.


 

> On December 12, 2018 at 6:49 PM Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> I recently purchased a new to me 35-3 and an very excited for the coming 
> spring and am grateful to this board. I did have a question about the 'upper' 
> genoa tracks on the 35-3 that are about 2' long and mounted on the cockpit 
> coamings just aft of the cabin. I assume that these are for sheet leads with 
> the 155% headsail up and pointing as high as possible. My question is how do 
> you transition from using a block here do the lower main track when you fall 
> off to a reach or downwind?
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> Cheers,
> Luke wolbrink
> 1985 C&C 35-3 Mr. JJ
> Chicago, IL
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Stus-List 35-3 Upper (inner?) Genoa Track

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

Hello All,

I recently purchased a new to me 35-3 and an very excited for the coming
spring and am grateful to this board. I did have a question about the
'upper' genoa tracks on the 35-3 that are about 2' long and mounted on the
cockpit coamings just aft of the cabin. I assume that these are for sheet
leads with the 155% headsail up and pointing as high as possible. My
question is how do you transition from using a block here do the lower main
track when you fall off to a reach or downwind?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Luke wolbrink
1985 C&C 35-3 Mr. JJ
Chicago, IL
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Bimini

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Brien,

 

I have a bimini on my 35-3.  I will send you a pic off-list.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Brien Sadler via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2018 08:14
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Bimini

 

In an attempt to not recreate the wheel, I'm looking for information, pictures, 
or a source lead on a bimini frame for an '87 35-3. Any help would be greatly 
appreciated.

 

Brien Sadler

S/V TAZ 

1987 C&C 35-3

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Bimini

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I haven't used these but, I've seen them during some searches

https://shop.sailboatowners.com/cat.php?53966


On 8/6/2018 8:14 AM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List wrote:
In an attempt to not recreate the wheel, I'm looking for information, 
pictures, or a source lead on a bimini frame for an '87 35-3. Any help 
would be greatly appreciated.


Brien Sadler
S/V TAZ
1987 C&C 35-3


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Stus-List 35-3 Bimini

[Brien Sadler via CnC-List]

In an attempt to not recreate the wheel, I'm looking for information,
pictures, or a source lead on a bimini frame for an '87 35-3. Any help
would be greatly appreciated.

Brien Sadler
S/V TAZ
1987 C&C 35-3
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Stus-List 35 - 3 price reduction

[Howard and Skippy via CnC-List]

Hello All,
Knot Again, my 35-3 which I have lovingly owned since 1993, has been for 
sale as I am moving to California. I am doing one last price reduction 
and am now offering, what IMHO is the nicest and best prepared 35-3 
available for $35,900.00. Anyone interested in copious info and pix on 
the boat, one of the wining-est on the east coast (current NJ Ocean 
Racing Conference Champion, multiple club champion, 18 ALIR trophies) 
please contact me. I hope to have the boat at the NE C&C rendezvous in 
Milford. Thanks

Howard Paul

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Stus-List 35-3 Bulkhead Rot

[Andrew Wilson via CnC-List]

Hi all, I am looking at a 1984 model 35-3 for sale.  Boat looks good overall. 
Recent keel re bed etc.  upon inspection have found the following bothersome 
issues; the bulkhead that the v birth door is hinged upon shows rot at the 
bottom as well as the bottom of the diagonal bulkhead separating the head from 
the v birth.  Anyone dealt with replacing these or ??   

Thanks in advance, 
Andrew 


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Re: Stus-List 35-3

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Howard,

I hope the next owner gets as much joy from her as you and Skippy have!

Joel

On Mon, Oct 30, 2017 at 12:59 PM, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 35-3 is for sale. Here is a link to the ad:
>
> https://www.popyachts.com/cruising-sailboats-for-sale/c-
> c-yachts-35-mk-iii-in-perth-amboy-new-jersey-135392
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Stus-List 35-3

[Howard and Skippy via CnC-List]

My 35-3 is for sale. Here is a link to the ad:

https://www.popyachts.com/cruising-sailboats-for-sale/c-c-yachts-35-mk-iii-in-perth-amboy-new-jersey-135392 

___

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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35 - 3; hauling costs?

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Had my C&C32 trucked from MD to Syracuse for $2,500 last fall.  Trick is to 
work with the trucker and get on a dead head run (return trip).  That way the 
trucker is paid for both directions and will typically give you a good break on 
the price.

 

Neil

Foxfire 1982 C&C32

(going back to MD)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 6:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3; hauliiing costs?

 

I agree its not a deal breaker...I had my 37 trucked from Newburyport 
Massachusetts to Louisville, KY about 3 years ago...cost was about $3700.00 
more or less

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4; C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Leslie Paal 
Sent: Sat, Aug 5, 2017 1:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

I have shipped a C&C25 from Marblehead to San Diego, the cost was much less 
than the potential loss on the sale/purchase. (I also had a tight schedule 
between jobs.) Leslie.  On Tue, 
8/1/17, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote: Subject: 
Stus-List 35 - 3 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Howard and Skippy" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 6:20 PM Hello All, I have 
owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for about 25 years. I have raced and cruised with her 
extensively. She is one of the winning-est boats in the Middle Atlantic states. 
18 trophies in the Around Long Island Regatta, multiple club championships. 
Multiple NJ offshore racing conference firsts (seconds and thirds). Third in 
C&C worlds. This summer, in two major regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and 1 2nd 
(by 5 seconds!). A safe, dependable wonderful sailing vessel. I am moving to 
California and it is too expensive to ship it, so it is for sale.IMHO, one of 
the nicest 35-3 available. Needs nothing and ready to sail away. Still actively 
being used. Extensive upgrades. Please email for pictures and complete info. 
Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again ___ 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 
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our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Shipping costs can be substantially reduced if you have time and can schedule 
delivery as part of the round trip the truck has to make

We trucked our 34 from Rochester NY to Mystic CT when we bought her - paid the 
roundtrip cost of the truck but was not excessive

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Leslie Paal 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2017 1:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Leslie Paal
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

I have shipped a C&C25 from Marblehead to San Diego, the cost was much less 
than the potential loss on the sale/purchase.  (I also had a tight schedule 
between jobs.)

Leslie.


On Tue, 8/1/17, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List 35 - 3
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Howard and Skippy" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 6:20 PM
 
 Hello All,
 I have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for
 about 25 years. I have raced and
 cruised with her extensively. She is
 one of the winning-est boats in the
 Middle Atlantic states. 18 trophies in
 the Around Long Island Regatta,
 multiple club championships. Multiple
 NJ offshore racing conference
 firsts (seconds and thirds). Third in
 C&C worlds. This summer, in two
 major regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and
 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe,
 dependable wonderful sailing vessel. I
 am moving to California and it is
 too expensive to ship it, so it is for
 sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3
 available. Needs nothing and ready to
 sail away. Still actively being
 used. Extensive upgrades. Please email
 for pictures and complete info.
 Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous
 donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution  to offset our 
costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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Re: Stus-List 35 - 3; hauliiing costs?

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

I agree its not a deal breaker...I had my 37 trucked from Newburyport 
Massachusetts to Louisville, KY about 3 years ago...cost was about $3700.00 
more or less

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Leslie Paal 
Sent: Sat, Aug 5, 2017 1:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

I have shipped a C&C25 from Marblehead to San Diego, the cost was much less 
than the potential loss on the sale/purchase.  (I also had a tight schedule 
between jobs.)Leslie.On Tue, 
8/1/17, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote: Subject: 
Stus-List 35 - 3 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Howard and Skippy" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 6:20 PM  Hello All, I 
have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for about 25 years. I have raced and  cruised 
with her extensively. She is one of the winning-est boats in the  Middle 
Atlantic states. 18 trophies in the Around Long Island Regatta,  multiple club 
championships. Multiple NJ offshore racing conference  firsts (seconds and 
thirds). Third in C&C worlds. This summer, in two  major regattas, in 10 races, 
9 1sts and 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe,  dependable wonderful sailing vessel. 
I am moving to California and it is  too expensive to ship it, so it is for 
sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3  available. Needs nothing and ready to sail 
away. Still actively being  used. Extensive upgrades. Please email for pictures 
and complete info. Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again  
___  This list is supported by the 
generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset 
our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  All Contributions 
are greatly appreciated! ___This 
list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make 
a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayAll Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I have shipped a C&C25 from Marblehead to San Diego, the cost was much less 
than the potential loss on the sale/purchase.  (I also had a tight schedule 
between jobs.)

Leslie.


On Tue, 8/1/17, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List 35 - 3
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Howard and Skippy" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 6:20 PM
 
 Hello All,
 I have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for
 about 25 years. I have raced and 
 cruised with her extensively. She is
 one of the winning-est boats in the 
 Middle Atlantic states. 18 trophies in
 the Around Long Island Regatta, 
 multiple club championships. Multiple
 NJ offshore racing conference 
 firsts (seconds and thirds). Third in
 C&C worlds. This summer, in two 
 major regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and
 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe, 
 dependable wonderful sailing vessel. I
 am moving to California and it is 
 too expensive to ship it, so it is for
 sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3 
 available. Needs nothing and ready to
 sail away. Still actively being 
 used. Extensive upgrades. Please email
 for pictures and complete info.
 Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous
 donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution
 to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Howard

Kindly send me your photos and details. We received a very good offer on
our C&C 39 TM (owned since 1976) today and are looking to downsize. The 35
II maybe a good choice for us.

Thank you

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
Savannah, GA 31410 USA
Tel. no: 912 898.1069 - Fax no: 912 898.9458 - 24/7 mobile number: 912
441.2296
Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com


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have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you


On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 9:20 PM, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello All,
> I have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for about 25 years. I have raced and
> cruised with her extensively. She is one of the winning-est boats in the
> Middle Atlantic states. 18 trophies in the Around Long Island Regatta,
> multiple club championships. Multiple NJ offshore racing conference firsts
> (seconds and thirds). Third in C&C worlds. This summer, in two major
> regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe, dependable
> wonderful sailing vessel. I am moving to California and it is too expensive
> to ship it, so it is for sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3 available. Needs
> nothing and ready to sail away. Still actively being used. Extensive
> upgrades. Please email for pictures and complete info.
> Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Stus-List 35 - 3

[Howard and Skippy via CnC-List]

Hello All,
I have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for about 25 years. I have raced and 
cruised with her extensively. She is one of the winning-est boats in the 
Middle Atlantic states. 18 trophies in the Around Long Island Regatta, 
multiple club championships. Multiple NJ offshore racing conference 
firsts (seconds and thirds). Third in C&C worlds. This summer, in two 
major regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe, 
dependable wonderful sailing vessel. I am moving to California and it is 
too expensive to ship it, so it is for sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3 
available. Needs nothing and ready to sail away. Still actively being 
used. Extensive upgrades. Please email for pictures and complete info.

Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List 35-3 racing sails

[Howard and Skippy via CnC-List]

to Bob Curtis:
If you are willing to separate the set, what do you wish for the genoa 
and what are its specs. Thanks

Howard Paul Knot Again 35 - 3

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 emergency helm flex NOW C&C 35 MK I rudder bearing

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Sure. All it is is a circle cut out of plastic with a hole in the center and 
some screws. You can't sail that way, but it has nothing to do with holding the 
rudder in the boat vertically.
I took mine to the local plastics shop and had them make another. You want to 
err on the side of too tight, I had to do a little sanding to get my new one 
on. Speaking of rudder issues - check the collar down under the quadrant. That 
DOES hold the rudder in the boat and mine was made of iron with predictable 
results for a boat sailed in salt water :(
For belt and suspenders redundancy, I added another collar above the bearing in 
the cockpit. McMaster sells stainless collars in the right sizes.

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2016 11:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Gallagher
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 emergency helm flex

Joe,

Does that upper bearing come out without removing the rudder stock? I'm getting 
some of the same movement at the top.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 9/26/2016 9:04 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
> When my 35 MK I was doing that it was because the upper bearing had too much 
> slop. I made a new bearing and fixed it.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Kris O'Brien via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 21:08
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Kris O'Brien
> Subject: Stus-List 35-3 emergency helm flex
>
> Greetings,
> I recently purchased my first C&C, a 1984 35-3 here in Southern California.
> As I was motoring from marina del Rey to her new home port I noticed the 
> emergency tiller stub flexing slightly as we took swell to the beam.
> I am wondering if this is normal and if not the potential causes and fixes.
> If anyone has experienced this please let me know.
> Thank you.
>
> Kris O'Brien
>
> California Substrates
>
>
> 818-300-9898
> skype: coldkris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 emergency helm flex

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

Does that upper bearing come out without removing the rudder stock? I'm 
getting some of the same movement at the top.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 9/26/2016 9:04 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:

When my 35 MK I was doing that it was because the upper bearing had too much 
slop. I made a new bearing and fixed it.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kris O'Brien 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 21:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kris O'Brien
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 emergency helm flex

Greetings,
I recently purchased my first C&C, a 1984 35-3 here in Southern California.
As I was motoring from marina del Rey to her new home port I noticed the 
emergency tiller stub flexing slightly as we took swell to the beam.
I am wondering if this is normal and if not the potential causes and fixes.
If anyone has experienced this please let me know.
Thank you.

Kris O'Brien

California Substrates


818-300-9898
skype: coldkris

Sent from my iPhone

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List 35-3 emergency helm flex

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Check the bolts holding the top post and bearing.
Joel

On Monday, September 26, 2016, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When my 35 MK I was doing that it was because the upper bearing had too
> much slop. I made a new bearing and fixed it.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On
> Behalf Of Kris O'Brien via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 21:08
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Kris O'Brien
> Subject: Stus-List 35-3 emergency helm flex
>
> Greetings,
> I recently purchased my first C&C, a 1984 35-3 here in Southern California.
> As I was motoring from marina del Rey to her new home port I noticed the
> emergency tiller stub flexing slightly as we took swell to the beam.
> I am wondering if this is normal and if not the potential causes and fixes.
> If anyone has experienced this please let me know.
> Thank you.
>
> Kris O'Brien
>
> California Substrates
>
>
> 818-300-9898
> skype: coldkris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 emergency helm flex

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

When my 35 MK I was doing that it was because the upper bearing had too much 
slop. I made a new bearing and fixed it. 
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kris O'Brien 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 21:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kris O'Brien
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 emergency helm flex

Greetings, 
I recently purchased my first C&C, a 1984 35-3 here in Southern California. 
As I was motoring from marina del Rey to her new home port I noticed the 
emergency tiller stub flexing slightly as we took swell to the beam.
I am wondering if this is normal and if not the potential causes and fixes. 
If anyone has experienced this please let me know. 
Thank you. 

Kris O'Brien

California Substrates


818-300-9898
skype: coldkris

Sent from my iPhone

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List 35-3 emergency helm flex

[Kris O'Brien via CnC-List]

Greetings, 
I recently purchased my first C&C, a 1984 35-3 here in Southern California. 
As I was motoring from marina del Rey to her new home port I noticed the 
emergency tiller stub flexing slightly as we took swell to the beam.
I am wondering if this is normal and if not the potential causes and fixes. 
If anyone has experienced this please let me know. 
Thank you. 

Kris O'Brien

California Substrates


818-300-9898
skype: coldkris

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Spinnaker Dimensions

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

SLE:  45.95
SLU:  45.95
SGF:  24.8
SGM:  24.8
SPL:  13.6

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Thu, Jun 2, 2016 at 1:37 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Does anyone know what dimensions the spinnaker should be on a C&C 35 mk
> III?  I'm thinking about picking up a secondhand spinnaker for mine and
> don't need to find a perfect match, but would like to get something in the
> ballpark of what the boat was designed for.
>
> It's a liveaboard so this wouldn't be for racing - at least not the kind
> of racing where anyone would care if I have the wrong spinnaker.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sam
> 35-3
> SF
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Spinnaker Dimensions

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Contact Bacon Sails in Annapolis Maryland. They have a large inventory of sails 
of all kinds. They rate them (I think honestly) – their web site has dimensions 
for most boats and if you just tell them what boat you have, they will give you 
a list of appropriate sails.

 

Gary

Maryland

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 2, 2016 4:38 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Sam Wheeler 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Spinnaker Dimensions

 

Hi all,

 

Does anyone know what dimensions the spinnaker should be on a C&C 35 mk III?  
I'm thinking about picking up a secondhand spinnaker for mine and don't need to 
find a perfect match, but would like to get something in the ballpark of what 
the boat was designed for.

 

It's a liveaboard so this wouldn't be for racing - at least not the kind of 
racing where anyone would care if I have the wrong spinnaker.

 

Thanks!

 

Sam

35-3

SF

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Stus-List 35-3 Spinnaker Dimensions

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Does anyone know what dimensions the spinnaker should be on a C&C 35 mk
III?  I'm thinking about picking up a secondhand spinnaker for mine and
don't need to find a perfect match, but would like to get something in the
ballpark of what the boat was designed for.

It's a liveaboard so this wouldn't be for racing - at least not the kind of
racing where anyone would care if I have the wrong spinnaker.

Thanks!

Sam
35-3
SF
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

When I wiggled back far enough to reach the grease cup on my 36 project boat, I 
found that after 35 years in Florida it was nothing but a flakey ball of rust. 
I tried to turn it anyway but it fell out of the fibreglass as soon as I 
touched it. The tiny bit of grease still protruding from what was left of the 
pipe thread was as hard as plastic. Access required disconnecting the exhaust 
hose and completely removing the port scupper hose. 

To free things up temporarily, I brushed transmission fluid on the rudder shaft 
and on the collar up top. After a surprisingly small bit of working it back and 
forth, it made a huge difference. A hose and a grease fitting is on the list of 
things to do. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C&C36
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
  Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2016 02:28
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve


  It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing a 
new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left in it) 
will make the steering easier.  If the cup is already screwed in all the way,  
remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease is squeezed 
out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering easier.


  Some members have tapped the cup for a Zerk fitting.  Then greasing the 
rudder post can be done with a grease gun.



  Alan Bergen

  35 Mk III Thirsty

  Rose City YC

  Portland, OR


  On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:40 PM, 
  tom via CnC-List  wrot,
  Indigo, a 35-3 in central NJ has had a tight steering wheel. Inspection 
revealed the need for a new rudder post sleeve and collar that holds the rudder 
in place. Does any one know of where replacements can be found for this. The 
local yard has said it may require a custom made piece. Of question is the 
thread size with comments being either 12 threads per inch or 11 1/2 threads 
per inch? Metric size? The collar is about 1 1/2 inches in length.
  Any help?
  Thanks,
  Tom Oryniak
  33-1
  Carry On


--


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Make sure that you check the alignment of the upper bearing connected to the 
cockpit floor before replacing anything!  Sometimes this bearing shifts 
laterally and make the steering appear to be stiff.  It is an easy correction 
to make.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 2, 2016, at 12:40 AM, tom via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Indigo, a 35-3 in central NJ has had a tight steering wheel. Inspection 
> revealed the need for a new rudder post sleeve and collar that holds the 
> rudder in place. Does any one know of where replacements can be found for 
> this. The local yard has said it may require a custom made piece. Of question 
> is the thread size with comments being either 12 threads per inch or 11 1/2 
> threads per inch? Metric size? The collar is about 1 1/2 inches in length.
> Any help?
> Thanks,
> Tom Oryniak
> 33-1
> Carry On
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It's hard to imagine having to replace the rudder post sleeve, and needing
a new collar.  Sometimes turning the grease cup (if it has any grease left
in it) will make the steering easier.  If the cup is already screwed in all
the way,  remove it, fill it with grease and screw it back on until grease
is squeezed out of the top of the sleeve.  That should make the steering
easier.

Some members have tapped the cup for a Zerk fitting.  Then greasing the
rudder post can be done with a grease gun.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:40 PM,
tom via CnC-List  wrot,
Indigo, a 35-3 in central NJ has had a tight steering wheel. Inspection
revealed the need for a new rudder post sleeve and collar that holds the
rudder in place. Does any one know of where replacements can be found for
this. The local yard has said it may require a custom made piece. Of
question is the thread size with comments being either 12 threads per inch
or 11 1/2 threads per inch? Metric size? The collar is about 1 1/2 inches
in length.
Any help?
Thanks,
Tom Oryniak
33-1
Carry On
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Stus-List 35-3 Rudder post sleeve

[tom via CnC-List]

Indigo, a 35-3 in central NJ has had a tight steering wheel. Inspection
revealed the need for a new rudder post sleeve and collar that holds the
rudder in place. Does any one know of where replacements can be found for
this. The local yard has said it may require a custom made piece. Of
question is the thread size with comments being either 12 threads per inch
or 11 1/2 threads per inch? Metric size? The collar is about 1 1/2 inches
in length.
Any help?
Thanks,
Tom Oryniak
33-1
Carry On
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 chain plate removal

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Wow. Let's see... How much lighter will my boat be with titanium? 
That's amazing that titanium is cheaper. And sexier. 
First price I got was crazy high. But then I realized it was Canadian not USD. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 25, 2016, at 6:30 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Jon,
> 
> I suspect that some may think I’m getting a bit carried away with this 
> suggestion but you may want to try having titanium chainplates fabricated.
> 
> Now, before you say I’m plugging high dollar options, there’s a very good 
> article in the latest Professional Boatbuilder (Number 159, February/March) 
> about chainplate failures. The article as has a side-bar about stainless 
> steel versus titanium replacements and the associated costs. Rather than go 
> through all of it, the author priced out the two options for a Whitby 42, 
> larger than our boats. 
> 
> The total cost for the S.S. chainplates plus fasteners was $347.20. The cost 
> for polished Grade 5 titanium, with fasteners, was 307.55.
> 
> Food for thought. I know which way I would go…
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
>> On Feb 24, 2016, at 8:38 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Replacements are probably what's coming. We were offered aluminum or 
>> stainless. Stainless being a "cheaper" option. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Feb 24, 2016, at 8:15 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Jon,
>>> 
>>> The cover plates on my 35-3 are through bolted to the deck.  Getting access
>>> is a bit of pain, but it's doable.  The bolts at the bottom end of the chain
>>> plate are pretty straight forward (and numerous).  Not sure if this is a
>>> good candidate for welding.  I would consider new replacements instead.
>>> 
>>> Jake
>>> 
>>> Jake Brodersen
>>> C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
>>> Hampton VA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail
>>> via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 14:09
>>> To: Stu 
>>> Cc: JP Mail 
>>> Subject: Stus-List 35-3 chainplate removal
>>> 
>>> Looking for any experiences with repairing/replacing a chainplate or 2 on a
>>> 35-3 I'm showing a hairline crack about 3/4" on the weld that attaches the
>>> flange to the chainplate at deck level. 
>>> Replace them both?
>>> Remove, grind, reweld and replace?
>>> Is it fairly straight forward job of removing the nuts and bolts from
>>> chainplate at the bulkhead below, remove the 4 screws on the flange on deck
>>> and lift?
>>> Hopefully only butyl tape and not 5200 between deck and flange. 
>>> Safe to leave the mast standing tied off while chainplate out? 
>>> All input and opinions welcome. 
>>> Jon. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
>>> of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 chain plate removal

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Jon,

I suspect that some may think I’m getting a bit carried away with this 
suggestion but you may want to try having titanium chainplates fabricated.

Now, before you say I’m plugging high dollar options, there’s a very good 
article in the latest Professional Boatbuilder (Number 159, February/March) 
about chainplate failures. The article as has a side-bar about stainless steel 
versus titanium replacements and the associated costs. Rather than go through 
all of it, the author priced out the two options for a Whitby 42, larger than 
our boats. 

The total cost for the S.S. chainplates plus fasteners was $347.20. The cost 
for polished Grade 5 titanium, with fasteners, was 307.55.

Food for thought. I know which way I would go…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> On Feb 24, 2016, at 8:38 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Replacements are probably what's coming. We were offered aluminum or 
> stainless. Stainless being a "cheaper" option. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Feb 24, 2016, at 8:15 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Jon,
>> 
>> The cover plates on my 35-3 are through bolted to the deck.  Getting access
>> is a bit of pain, but it's doable.  The bolts at the bottom end of the chain
>> plate are pretty straight forward (and numerous).  Not sure if this is a
>> good candidate for welding.  I would consider new replacements instead.
>> 
>> Jake
>> 
>> Jake Brodersen
>> C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
>> Hampton VA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 14:09
>> To: Stu 
>> Cc: JP Mail 
>> Subject: Stus-List 35-3 chainplate removal
>> 
>> Looking for any experiences with repairing/replacing a chainplate or 2 on a
>> 35-3 I'm showing a hairline crack about 3/4" on the weld that attaches the
>> flange to the chainplate at deck level. 
>> Replace them both?
>> Remove, grind, reweld and replace?
>> Is it fairly straight forward job of removing the nuts and bolts from
>> chainplate at the bulkhead below, remove the 4 screws on the flange on deck
>> and lift?
>> Hopefully only butyl tape and not 5200 between deck and flange. 
>> Safe to leave the mast standing tied off while chainplate out? 
>> All input and opinions welcome. 
>> Jon. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 chain plate removal

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Replacements are probably what's coming. We were offered aluminum or stainless. 
Stainless being a "cheaper" option. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 24, 2016, at 8:15 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Jon,
> 
> The cover plates on my 35-3 are through bolted to the deck.  Getting access
> is a bit of pain, but it's doable.  The bolts at the bottom end of the chain
> plate are pretty straight forward (and numerous).  Not sure if this is a
> good candidate for welding.  I would consider new replacements instead.
> 
> Jake
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 14:09
> To: Stu 
> Cc: JP Mail 
> Subject: Stus-List 35-3 chainplate removal
> 
> Looking for any experiences with repairing/replacing a chainplate or 2 on a
> 35-3 I'm showing a hairline crack about 3/4" on the weld that attaches the
> flange to the chainplate at deck level. 
> Replace them both?
> Remove, grind, reweld and replace?
> Is it fairly straight forward job of removing the nuts and bolts from
> chainplate at the bulkhead below, remove the 4 screws on the flange on deck
> and lift?
> Hopefully only butyl tape and not 5200 between deck and flange. 
> Safe to leave the mast standing tied off while chainplate out? 
> All input and opinions welcome. 
> Jon. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 chain plate removal

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jon,

The cover plates on my 35-3 are through bolted to the deck.  Getting access
is a bit of pain, but it's doable.  The bolts at the bottom end of the chain
plate are pretty straight forward (and numerous).  Not sure if this is a
good candidate for welding.  I would consider new replacements instead.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 14:09
To: Stu 
Cc: JP Mail 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 chainplate removal

Looking for any experiences with repairing/replacing a chainplate or 2 on a
35-3 I'm showing a hairline crack about 3/4" on the weld that attaches the
flange to the chainplate at deck level. 
Replace them both?
Remove, grind, reweld and replace?
Is it fairly straight forward job of removing the nuts and bolts from
chainplate at the bulkhead below, remove the 4 screws on the flange on deck
and lift?
 Hopefully only butyl tape and not 5200 between deck and flange. 
Safe to leave the mast standing tied off while chainplate out? 
All input and opinions welcome. 
Jon. 

Sent from my iPhone


Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List 35-3 chainplate removal

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Looking for any experiences with repairing/replacing a chainplate or 2 on a 35-3
I'm showing a hairline crack about 3/4" on the weld that attaches the flange to 
the chainplate at deck level. 
Replace them both?
Remove, grind, reweld and replace?
Is it fairly straight forward job of removing the nuts and bolts from 
chainplate at the bulkhead below, remove the 4 screws on the flange on deck and 
lift?
 Hopefully only butyl tape and not 5200 between deck and flange. 
Safe to leave the mast standing tied off while chainplate out? 
All input and opinions welcome. 
Jon. 

Sent from my iPhone


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 sternn boarding ladder

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Give White Water Marine a call.   They made many of the original ladders.  I 
had one made for a LF38 to the original specs which they have on hand.

http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/ladders.html



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 17, 2016, at 8:44 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Howard
> and Skippy via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 12:12
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Howard and Skippy mailto:emp...@optonline.net>>
> Subject: Stus-List 35-3 sternn boarding ladder
> 
> Hello All,
> Anyone have a lead on a stern boarding ladder for a 35-3?  Mine was bent by
> a sprit from a 109 in a race:-( .
> Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again
> 
> ___

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 stern boarding ladder

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

A good friend made me teak steps to go on the standard 27 ladder. Big 
improvement and they look great.

-Original Message-
From: "Jake Brodersen via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎02-‎17 8:16 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Jake Brodersen" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 stern boarding ladder

Howard,

The stern ladder on the 35-3 isn't rocket science.  It's a very simple
design that any competent metal worker should be able to copy or replicate.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Howard
and Skippy via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 12:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Howard and Skippy 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 sternn boarding ladder

Hello All,
Anyone have a lead on a stern boarding ladder for a 35-3?  Mine was bent by
a sprit from a 109 in a race:-( .
Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 stern boarding ladder

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Howard,

The stern ladder on the 35-3 isn't rocket science.  It's a very simple
design that any competent metal worker should be able to copy or replicate.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Howard
and Skippy via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 12:12
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Howard and Skippy 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 sternn boarding ladder

Hello All,
Anyone have a lead on a stern boarding ladder for a 35-3?  Mine was bent by
a sprit from a 109 in a race:-( .
Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 sternn boarding ladder

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I got the one for my viking at Binnacle 
http://ca.binnacle.com/Deck-Hardware-Ladders/c117_146/p5390/TRANSOM-LADDER-FOR-SAILBOAT-5-STEP-STAINLESS-STEEL/product_info.html
 I was pretty happy with it.  Well constructed and strong.  Could have used 
some wider slats, added to the rungs, because the SS tubing was kind of hard on 
bare feet. Danny 
-- Original Message --
From: Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Howard and Skippy 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 sternn boarding ladder
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 2016 12:12:16 -0500

Hello All,
Anyone have a lead on a stern boarding ladder for a 35-3?  Mine was bent 
by a sprit from a 109 in a race:-( .
Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again

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Stus-List 35-3 sternn boarding ladder

[Howard and Skippy via CnC-List]

Hello All,
Anyone have a lead on a stern boarding ladder for a 35-3?  Mine was bent 
by a sprit from a 109 in a race:-( .

Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 keel centerboard

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Mike,

Don't know if Chef Dave is still on the list, but he has one on the
chesapeake.  It rates 6 or 9 seconds slower than the keel version.  Steve
Sharkey and others have the 37 CB.  I'd make sure the wire pennant is not
corroded, but otherwise I don't see any negatives.

Joel

On Mon, Jun 22, 2015 at 8:24 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was visiting my club on the weekend (Barrachois Harbour Yacht Club,
> Tatamagouche, NS) and there is now a 35-3 CB/Keel located there which draws
> 4 ft board up.  We have a very shallow channel (2.3 feet at moon low tide)
> so anything over 5 foot has been a challenge and a C&C99 was really pushing
> it when Prospector used to sail out of there (5.5 ft draft).
>
> Any comments on the sailing characteristics of the 35-3 Keel/CB vs regular
> 35-3?  How does it sail with board up?
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake
> Brodersen via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2015 6:16 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jake Brodersen; 'Davidmidkiff'
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MkI for sale
>
> David,
>
> Welcome to the 35-3 owners club.  I look forward to seeing you out on the
> Bay.  Any plans for racing?  Cock Island this weekend was a long, hot
> ordeal, but we managed a second place in PHRF A.  I'd love to see your boat.
> It's always interesting to see how others are setup.  Joel's and mine are
> quite different.
>
> Jake
>
> Jake Brodersen
> "Midnight Mistress"
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton VA
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> Davidmidkiff via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 19, 2015 6:53 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Davidmidkiff
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 30 MkI for sale
>
> If you or anyone you know is interested I am selling my 1973 ( 2 owner) C&C
> 30 MK I.   She is located on the eastern shore of MD.  I bought a C&C 35 MK
> III and need to sell her.
>
> David Midkiff
> C&C 30 MkI soon to be C&C 35
> Serendipity
> Chesapeake, VA
> dmidki...@cox.net
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List 35-3 keel centerboard

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I was visiting my club on the weekend (Barrachois Harbour Yacht Club, 
Tatamagouche, NS) and there is now a 35-3 CB/Keel located there which draws 4 
ft board up.  We have a very shallow channel (2.3 feet at moon low tide) so 
anything over 5 foot has been a challenge and a C&C99 was really pushing it 
when Prospector used to sail out of there (5.5 ft draft).

Any comments on the sailing characteristics of the 35-3 Keel/CB vs regular 
35-3?  How does it sail with board up?

Mike
Persistence
Halifax


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2015 6:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen; 'Davidmidkiff'
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MkI for sale

David,

Welcome to the 35-3 owners club.  I look forward to seeing you out on the Bay.  
Any plans for racing?  Cock Island this weekend was a long, hot ordeal, but we 
managed a second place in PHRF A.  I'd love to see your boat.
It's always interesting to see how others are setup.  Joel's and mine are quite 
different.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Davidmidkiff 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 19, 2015 6:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Davidmidkiff
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30 MkI for sale

If you or anyone you know is interested I am selling my 1973 ( 2 owner) C&C
30 MK I.   She is located on the eastern shore of MD.  I bought a C&C 35 MK
III and need to sell her.

David Midkiff
C&C 30 MkI soon to be C&C 35
Serendipity
Chesapeake, VA
dmidki...@cox.net

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

a 135 and a spinnaker...seems odd, i more expected a 100% jib for polars...
where with regards to angle does the spinnaker come into play?  Are those
apparent wind angles or true wind angles...looks like they are apparent and
if so the important numbers, like for apparent wind angle 25-40 suggest the
boat will not move forward below wind speed 14 kts (that is in kts,
correct?)...anyway I am sure the boat will go faster than 0 in those
conditions.



Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sun, May 17, 2015 at 7:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Good day.
> Attached here are the polars for a C&C35-3 (Howard's in particular, but
> should be generic...).  The polars are for a 135% jib and a spinnaker.
> This is in the format Raymarine's Lighthouse software will use, the format
> is wind speed along the top, angle on the side.
>
>
>  8 10 12 14 16 20  39.6 0 0 0 0 6.114 6.213  40.1 0 0 0 6.045 6.114 6.213
> 41.3 0 0 5.936 6.045 6.114 6.213  43.2 0 5.751 5.936 6.045 6.114 6.213
> 44.2 5.143 5.751 5.936 6.045 6.114 6.213  52 5.715 6.313 6.563 6.7 6.787
> 6.899  60 6.051 6.563 6.819 6.95 7.039 7.165  70 6.243 6.723 7.015 7.189
> 7.288 7.434  80 6.501 6.855 7.087 7.321 7.482 7.658  90 6.619 7.006 7.222
> 7.367 7.507 7.803  110 6.507 6.996 7.351 7.613 7.802 8.067  120 6.284
> 6.862 7.276 7.612 7.888 8.294  135 5.663 6.466 6.952 7.345 7.691 8.297
> 144 5.071 5.719 6.427 6.898 7.286 7.967  150 4.733 5.712 5.966 6.54 6.944
> 7.684  165 4.165 5.08 5.933 6.43 6.839 7.539  180 3.887 4.765 5.597 6.287
> 6.765 7.488
> So for example at 70 degrees in 14 knots of wind the boat should have a
> target speed of 7.189 knots.
> The attached file is small enough it should sneak through Stu's site.
>
> And a thanks is due to Howard Paul for providing the data.
>
> cheers!
>
> --
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
>
> ___
>
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>
>
>
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Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Good day.
Attached here are the polars for a C&C35-3 (Howard's in particular, but 
should be generic...).  The polars are for a 135% jib and a spinnaker.
This is in the format Raymarine's Lighthouse software will use, the 
format is wind speed along the top, angle on the side.



8   10  12  14  16  20
39.60   0   0   0   6.114   6.213
40.10   0   0   6.045   6.114   6.213
41.30   0   5.936   6.045   6.114   6.213
43.20   5.751   5.936   6.045   6.114   6.213
44.25.143   5.751   5.936   6.045   6.114   6.213
52  5.715   6.313   6.563   6.7 6.787   6.899
60  6.051   6.563   6.819   6.957.039   7.165
70  6.243   6.723   7.015   7.189   7.288   7.434
80  6.501   6.855   7.087   7.321   7.482   7.658
90  6.619   7.006   7.222   7.367   7.507   7.803
110 6.507   6.996   7.351   7.613   7.802   8.067
120 6.284   6.862   7.276   7.612   7.888   8.294
135 5.663   6.466   6.952   7.345   7.691   8.297
144 5.071   5.719   6.427   6.898   7.286   7.967
150 4.733   5.712   5.966   6.546.944   7.684
165 4.165   5.085.933   6.436.839   7.539
180 3.887   4.765   5.597   6.287   6.765   7.488


So for example at 70 degrees in 14 knots of wind the boat should have a 
target speed of 7.189 knots.

The attached file is small enough it should sneak through Stu's site.

And a thanks is due to Howard Paul for providing the data.

cheers!

--
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

,8,10,12,14,16,20
39.6,0,0,0,0,6.114,6.213
40.1,0,0,0,6.045,6.114,6.213
41.3,0,0,5.936,6.045,6.114,6.213
43.2,0,5.751,5.936,6.045,6.114,6.213
44.2,5.143,5.751,5.936,6.045,6.114,6.213
52,5.715,6.313,6.563,6.7,6.787,6.899
60,6.051,6.563,6.819,6.95,7.039,7.165
70,6.243,6.723,7.015,7.189,7.288,7.434
80,6.501,6.855,7.087,7.321,7.482,7.658
90,6.619,7.006,7.222,7.367,7.507,7.803
110,6.507,6.996,7.351,7.613,7.802,8.067
120,6.284,6.862,7.276,7.612,7.888,8.294
135,5.663,6.466,6.952,7.345,7.691,8.297
144,5.071,5.719,6.427,6.898,7.286,7.967
150,4.733,5.712,5.966,6.54,6.944,7.684
165,4.165,5.08,5.933,6.43,6.839,7.539
180,3.887,4.765,5.597,6.287,6.765,7.488
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I really can't remember where I got that. I thought I had a printed guide
that went with it, but I can't find it now. I'll have a look in the
archives and see if I backed it up at some point.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 11 May 2015 at 14:40, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  Hi Jim
> What is the pedigree of that chart?  It looks hand drawn.  Any idea what
> jib it assumes, or what wind speed one changes jib size?  The spinnaker
> after 120 true is clear.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-05-08 1:17 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Do they look like these? <
> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UbnwcyZAcG4/VD8e9uiQxxI/CkM/xteY0mUYmXM/w1037-h813-no/C%2526C%2B35%2BMk%2BIII%2Bpolar.jpg
> >
>
>  Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 7 May 2015 at 18:50, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have the polars for the 35-3 and also have them set up for use with the
>> Nexus NX2 system, not Raymarine.  I will be glad to share them if someone
>> can do the formatting.
>> Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Jim
What is the pedigree of that chart?  It looks hand drawn.  Any idea what 
jib it assumes, or what wind speed one changes jib size?  The spinnaker 
after 120 true is clear.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2015-05-08 1:17 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Do they look like these? 



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 7 May 2015 at 18:50, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I have the polars for the 35-3 and also have them set up for use
with the Nexus NX2 system, not Raymarine.  I will be glad to share
them if someone can do the formatting.
Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Dave via CnC-List]

Jake, 

Me too please. 

Dave 
C&C 35-3 Saltaire 

- Original Message -

From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker"  
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2015 11:35:40 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars 

Could you add me to that list? I often race with a friend who has the 35-3. 
Ron 
Wild Cheri 
C&C 30-1 
STL 



From: Kim Brown via CnC-List  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Kim Brown  
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2015 6:26 AM 
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 polars 

Jake, 
add me to the list of folks interested in 35-3 polars in any format- hard 
copy is fine. 
Kim Brown 
TrustMe!!! 35-3 



2015-05-07 8:25 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote: 
> 
> I have the hard copy from US sailing, but not sure how to translate it 
> into the appropriate format. 
> 

* 


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Lee via CnC-List]

Jake,please add me to the list ,also. Thanks
Lee Christiansen
C&C 35-3 Maggielee
-Original Message-
From: Kim Brown via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Kim Brown 
Sent: Fri, May 8, 2015 7:26 am
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 polars


Jake,
add me to the list of folks interested in 35-3 polars in any format-
hard
copy is fine.
Kim Brown
TrustMe!!! 35-3



2015-05-07 8:25 PM, Jake
Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have the hard copy from US sailing, but
not sure how to translate it 
> into the appropriate
format.
>

*


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Could you add me to that list?  I often race with a friend who has the 
35-3.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL

  From: Kim Brown via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Kim Brown  
 Sent: Friday, May 8, 2015 6:26 AM
 Subject: Stus-List 35-3 polars
   
Jake,
add me to the list of folks interested in 35-3 polars in any format- hard
copy is fine.
Kim Brown
TrustMe!!! 35-3



2015-05-07 8:25 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have the hard copy from US sailing, but not sure how to translate it 
> into the appropriate format.
>

*


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Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Kim Brown via CnC-List]

Jake,
add me to the list of folks interested in 35-3 polars in any format- hard
copy is fine.
Kim Brown
TrustMe!!! 35-3



2015-05-07 8:25 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have the hard copy from US sailing, but not sure how to translate it 
> into the appropriate format.
>

*


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I can assist with formatting.  I'm interested I using them in an iPhone app.

Thanks,

Tim


> On May 7, 2015, at 9:50 PM, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have the polars for the 35-3 and also have them set up for use with the 
> Nexus NX2 system, not Raymarine.  I will be glad to share them if someone can 
> do the formatting.
> Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again
> 
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jim,

 

That’s what they look like.  I also have some older, tabular format polars.  
They look ancient.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2015 12:18 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

 

Do they look like these? 
<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UbnwcyZAcG4/VD8e9uiQxxI/CkM/xteY0mUYmXM/w1037-h813-no/C%2526C%2B35%2BMk%2BIII%2Bpolar.jpg>




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 7 May 2015 at 18:50, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  
wrote:

I have the polars for the 35-3 and also have them set up for use with the Nexus 
NX2 system, not Raymarine.  I will be glad to share them if someone can do the 
formatting.
Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Do they look like these? <
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UbnwcyZAcG4/VD8e9uiQxxI/CkM/xteY0mUYmXM/w1037-h813-no/C%2526C%2B35%2BMk%2BIII%2Bpolar.jpg
>

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 7 May 2015 at 18:50, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have the polars for the 35-3 and also have them set up for use with the
> Nexus NX2 system, not Raymarine.  I will be glad to share them if someone
> can do the formatting.
> Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Stus-List 35-3 polars

[Howard and Skippy via CnC-List]

I have the polars for the 35-3 and also have them set up for use with 
the Nexus NX2 system, not Raymarine.  I will be glad to share them if 
someone can do the formatting.

Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[Kurt Heckert via CnC-List]

Glad to hear that about the 35 mk II as I am buying one. She needs some work 
but we are planning on racing her in 2016.___

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The hidden issue in my post was the 35-3 had its centerboard cranked up for 85% 
of the first race. That's one reason that most handicapping authorities do not 
include distance races in their evaluations of different boats.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2015, at 3:22 PM, robert  wrote:
> 
> Dennis:
> 
> Interesting observations on different boats and their performance on 
> different points of sail.  The listers should pay close attention to these 
> posts before they go 'hook up' on a fellow C&C sailor.
> 
> Some years back, we were campaigning a 1985 C&C 33 MKII with beautiful new 
> sails.  At a regatta in East Bay, in the Bras d'Or Lakes, Cape Breton 
> Island...we found ourselves racing against, among other boats, a well 
> sailed C&C 35 MKII from Shediac, New Brunswick.  
> 
> The 33 MKII would take the 35 MKII to weather/beat, every time, and point a 
> bit higher, but the 35MKII would take it all back on the reach and run.  The 
> course was an 8 mile beat, 2 mile reach, 8 mile run..we always lost a bit 
> on the reach, however, we were always overtaken, after being ahead of this 
> boat all race, about 3/4 of the way down the spin runand there wasn't a 
> darn thing we could do about it..it happened repeatedly.  And we knew how 
> to fly a spinnaker.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.  
> 
>> On 2015-03-14 1:35 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> I raced my 35-1 against a 35-3 CB in a 100 mile distance race two years 
>> running.  First year was a 15 mile beat followed by 85 miles chute carry and 
>> broad reach.  The 35-3 beat us by about 10 minutes corrected.  They hung 
>> with us the entire race.
>> 
>> The second year was 15 miles close reaching and then 85 miles beating into 
>> 10-20 knots and 2-6 foot seas.  We beat the 35-3 CB by 2 1/2 hours.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 11:29 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> The CB version is rated 6 seconds slower for Chesapeake PHRF FWIW.
>>> 
>>> I'm not sure why, it should be faster off the wind.  My only concern 
>>> specific to the CB vesrion would be to see if the CB pennant has been 
>>> replaced.
>>> 
>>> Joel
>>> 35/3 (keel version)
>>> Annapolis
>>> 
 On Saturday, March 14, 2015, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Where are you from Dan?  St. Mary's City is about 45-60min from me if you 
 need local eyes on the boat.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons,  MD
 
> On Mar 14, 2015 10:14 AM, "Berry Fox via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi, anyone on the list familiar with this particular boat?  More 
> generally, any specific concerns with the centerboard version of these 
> boats?  How do they point?  Thanks,
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Joel 
>>> 301 541 8551
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

the 35 mkII has a LWL exactly 4 ft longer than the 33 mkII. Here is the answer 
in my opinion, as long as there is enough wind to push the heavier 35. in my 
expérience, everything else being equal, the 33 mkII or 35 mkIII do point 
higher. don't know about the CB...
The mk II has a surprisingly long LWL for the vintage, even longer than the 
mkIII and the Hull shape of the mk II slices the chop in an easier way, a 
définite plus in some conditions and probably more comfortable too.

All good design and nice well manered fastish boat i think.

but i absolutly love my 33 mk II, it's fast and gorgeous!

Bruno
Becassine, 33 mkII 87
New richmond, Qc.




Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-03-14 à 16:23, robert via CnC-List  a écrit :
> 
> Dennis:
> 
> Interesting observations on different boats and their performance on 
> different points of sail.  The listers should pay close attention to these 
> posts before they go 'hook up' on a fellow C&C sailor.
> 
> Some years back, we were campaigning a 1985 C&C 33 MKII with beautiful new 
> sails.  At a regatta in East Bay, in the Bras d'Or Lakes, Cape Breton 
> Island...we found ourselves racing against, among other boats, a well 
> sailed C&C 35 MKII from Shediac, New Brunswick.  
> 
> The 33 MKII would take the 35 MKII to weather/beat, every time, and point a 
> bit higher, but the 35MKII would take it all back on the reach and run.  The 
> course was an 8 mile beat, 2 mile reach, 8 mile run..we always lost a bit 
> on the reach, however, we were always overtaken, after being ahead of this 
> boat all race, about 3/4 of the way down the spin runand there wasn't a 
> darn thing we could do about it..it happened repeatedly.  And we knew how 
> to fly a spinnaker.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.  
> 
>> On 2015-03-14 1:35 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> I raced my 35-1 against a 35-3 CB in a 100 mile distance race two years 
>> running.  First year was a 15 mile beat followed by 85 miles chute carry and 
>> broad reach.  The 35-3 beat us by about 10 minutes corrected.  They hung 
>> with us the entire race.
>> 
>> The second year was 15 miles close reaching and then 85 miles beating into 
>> 10-20 knots and 2-6 foot seas.  We beat the 35-3 CB by 2 1/2 hours.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Dennis,

I'd support those observations; I have found that we tend to slam more than
other boats in short steep chop.  In 10-14 knots / flatter water I think
the upwind results may be different.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 12:35 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I raced my 35-1 against a 35-3 CB in a 100 mile distance race two years
> running.  First year was a 15 mile beat followed by 85 miles chute carry
> and broad reach.  The 35-3 beat us by about 10 minutes corrected.  They
> hung with us the entire race.
>
> The second year was 15 miles close reaching and then 85 miles beating into
> 10-20 knots and 2-6 foot seas.  We beat the 35-3 CB by 2 1/2 hours.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 11:29 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The CB version is rated 6 seconds slower for Chesapeake PHRF FWIW.
>>
>> I'm not sure why, it should be faster off the wind.  My only concern
>> specific to the CB vesrion would be to see if the CB pennant has been
>> replaced.
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3 (keel version)
>> Annapolis
>>
>> On Saturday, March 14, 2015, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Where are you from Dan?  St. Mary's City is about 45-60min from me if
>>> you need local eyes on the boat.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons,  MD
>>> On Mar 14, 2015 10:14 AM, "Berry Fox via CnC-List" <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>

 Hi, anyone on the list familiar with this particular boat?  More
 generally, any specific concerns with the centerboard version of these
 boats?  How do they point?  Thanks,

 Dan


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>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[robert via CnC-List]

Dennis:

Interesting observations on different boats and their performance on 
different points of sail.  The listers should pay close attention to 
these posts before they go 'hook up' on a fellow C&C sailor.


Some years back, we were campaigning a 1985 C&C 33 MKII with beautiful 
new sails.  At a regatta in East Bay, in the Bras d'Or Lakes, Cape 
Breton Island...we found ourselves racing against, among other 
boats, a well sailed C&C 35 MKII from Shediac, New Brunswick.


The 33 MKII would take the 35 MKII to weather/beat, every time, and 
point a bit higher, but the 35MKII would take it all back on the reach 
and run.  The course was an 8 mile beat, 2 mile reach, 8 mile 
run..we always lost a bit on the reach, however, we were always 
overtaken, after being ahead of this boat all race, about 3/4 of the way 
down the spin runand there wasn't a darn thing we could do about 
it..it happened repeatedly.  And we knew how to fly a spinnaker.


Rob Abbott
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-03-14 1:35 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I raced my 35-1 against a 35-3 CB in a 100 mile distance race two 
years running.  First year was a 15 mile beat followed by 85 miles 
chute carry and broad reach. The 35-3 beat us by about 10 minutes 
corrected.  They hung with us the entire race.


The second year was 15 miles close reaching and then 85 miles beating 
into 10-20 knots and 2-6 foot seas.  We beat the 35-3 CB by 2 1/2 hours.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 11:29 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


The CB version is rated 6 seconds slower for Chesapeake PHRF FWIW.

I'm not sure why, it should be faster off the wind.  My only
concern specific to the CB vesrion would be to see if the CB
pennant has been replaced.

Joel
35/3 (keel version)
Annapolis

On Saturday, March 14, 2015, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Where are you from Dan?  St. Mary's City is about 45-60min
from me if you need local eyes on the boat.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD

On Mar 14, 2015 10:14 AM, "Berry Fox via CnC-List"
 wrote:


Hi, anyone on the list familiar with this particular
boat?  More generally, any specific concerns with the
centerboard version of these boats?  How do they point? 
Thanks,


Dan


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-- 
Joel

301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I raced my 35-1 against a 35-3 CB in a 100 mile distance race two years
running.  First year was a 15 mile beat followed by 85 miles chute carry
and broad reach.  The 35-3 beat us by about 10 minutes corrected.  They
hung with us the entire race.

The second year was 15 miles close reaching and then 85 miles beating into
10-20 knots and 2-6 foot seas.  We beat the 35-3 CB by 2 1/2 hours.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 11:29 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The CB version is rated 6 seconds slower for Chesapeake PHRF FWIW.
>
> I'm not sure why, it should be faster off the wind.  My only concern
> specific to the CB vesrion would be to see if the CB pennant has been
> replaced.
>
> Joel
> 35/3 (keel version)
> Annapolis
>
> On Saturday, March 14, 2015, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Where are you from Dan?  St. Mary's City is about 45-60min from me if you
>> need local eyes on the boat.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons,  MD
>> On Mar 14, 2015 10:14 AM, "Berry Fox via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi, anyone on the list familiar with this particular boat?  More
>>> generally, any specific concerns with the centerboard version of these
>>> boats?  How do they point?  Thanks,
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
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>>>
>>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

The CB version is rated 6 seconds slower for Chesapeake PHRF FWIW.

I'm not sure why, it should be faster off the wind.  My only concern
specific to the CB vesrion would be to see if the CB pennant has been
replaced.

Joel
35/3 (keel version)
Annapolis

On Saturday, March 14, 2015, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Where are you from Dan?  St. Mary's City is about 45-60min from me if you
> need local eyes on the boat.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons,  MD
> On Mar 14, 2015 10:14 AM, "Berry Fox via CnC-List"  > wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi, anyone on the list familiar with this particular boat?  More
>> generally, any specific concerns with the centerboard version of these
>> boats?  How do they point?  Thanks,
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
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>>
>>

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Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Where are you from Dan?  St. Mary's City is about 45-60min from me if you
need local eyes on the boat.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD
On Mar 14, 2015 10:14 AM, "Berry Fox via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>
> Hi, anyone on the list familiar with this particular boat?  More
> generally, any specific concerns with the centerboard version of these
> boats?  How do they point?  Thanks,
>
> Dan
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dan,

Are you racing or just looking to sail smartly to weather?

I'm not familiar with that particular boat, but the 35-3 points very well.
My deep keel version goes to weather like a witch.  With the board down, the
centerboard version should be pretty capable as well.  I'm sure some
centerboard guys will ring in here shortly with their experience.



 Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Berry Fox
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2015 10:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD


Hi, anyone on the list familiar with this particular boat?  More generally,
any specific concerns with the centerboard version of these boats?  How do
they point?  Thanks,

Dan


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Stus-List 35-3 for sale in St Mary's City, MD

[Berry Fox via CnC-List]

Hi, anyone on the list familiar with this particular boat?  More generally, any 
specific concerns with the centerboard version of these boats?  How do they 
point?  Thanks,

Dan


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Stus-List 35-3 headsails

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

If anyone has old but serviceable laminate headsails they are looking to
unload, please let me know.  My #2 is about to become tote bags.

Also, my 1.5 ounce chute is the same size as my light air chutes.  If it is
windy enough to need the 1.5 oz. chute it is way too big to handle.  Has
anyone had a 1.5 ounce chute cut down?  Should I just buy a smaller chute?

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Ice Box Insulation

[Stevan Plavsa]

Ice block melt test.

I would encourage anyone considering this exercise to read Don Casey's book
"This Old Boat". He goes into detail about ice box insulation, the best way
to do it, how not to do it and how to quantify what difference you might
have made.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 12:18 PM, Alan Bergen wrote:

>
> I glued two inch closed cell foam to the under side of the top of the ice
> box.  I also drilled a hole through the wall just aft of the stove, and
> injected foam into the void.  The can comes with a long tube which I
> inserted as far as it would go toward the port side of the boat, and
> practically emptied the can.  I'm sure I didn't fill all of the void, but
> the extra foam probably made a difference.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Ice Box Insulation

[Alan Bergen]

I glued two inch closed cell foam to the under side of the top of the ice box. 
I also drilled a hole through the wall just aft of the stove, and injected foam 
into the void. The can comes with a long tube which I inserted as far as it 
would go toward the port side of the boat, and practically emptied the can. I'm 
sure I didn't fill all of the void, but the extra foam probably made a 
difference. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 
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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Ice Box Insulation

[dwight]

Jake

 

I am interested in the insulation possibilities for the icebox on my 35
MKII; may be quite similar to your MKIII.  Could you please send the photos
to me:

 

d.ve...@bellaliant.net

 

Thanks

Dwight

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake
Brodersen
Sent: February 5, 2014 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Ice Box Insulation

 

I know several of you are curious about adding insulation to the ice box.
On my 35-3 I added rigid foam insulation (with a metallic coating on one
side) to the inside top of the ice box.  It is glued in place and has worked
well to eliminate the sweating on the counter that I had previously
experienced after converting to refrigeration.

 

This weekend I took some pictures of the available space around the sides of
the icebox that are available for additional insulation.  I have a small
circular access plate under my stove that allows me to access the ice box
drain.  I noted that the right side (forward end) of the ice box has several
inches of air space where you could add insulation.  Although with such a
small access hole, it would have to be flexible (like foam sheets) or cut
into long, narrow strips for installation.  There is also some room between
the ice box and hull, but it is nearly inaccessible. The propane hose runs
behind the ice box too.  I wouldn't want to trap that in place, in case I
ever have to change it, but there does appear to be a fairly large air space
behind the ice box, between it and the hull.

 

I took a couple of pictures of the space, if anyone would like to email me
offline:  captain_j...@cox.net 

I also have shots of the condenser and evaporator installations.  I need to
set-up a dropbox account again, I guess.  In the meantime, email works fine.

 

Cheers,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

 

 

 

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Stus-List 35-3 Ice Box Insulation

[Jake Brodersen]

I know several of you are curious about adding insulation to the ice box.
On my 35-3 I added rigid foam insulation (with a metallic coating on one
side) to the inside top of the ice box.  It is glued in place and has worked
well to eliminate the sweating on the counter that I had previously
experienced after converting to refrigeration.

 

This weekend I took some pictures of the available space around the sides of
the icebox that are available for additional insulation.  I have a small
circular access plate under my stove that allows me to access the ice box
drain.  I noted that the right side (forward end) of the ice box has several
inches of air space where you could add insulation.  Although with such a
small access hole, it would have to be flexible (like foam sheets) or cut
into long, narrow strips for installation.  There is also some room between
the ice box and hull, but it is nearly inaccessible. The propane hose runs
behind the ice box too.  I wouldn't want to trap that in place, in case I
ever have to change it, but there does appear to be a fairly large air space
behind the ice box, between it and the hull.

 

I took a couple of pictures of the space, if anyone would like to email me
offline:  captain_j...@cox.net 

I also have shots of the condenser and evaporator installations.  I need to
set-up a dropbox account again, I guess.  In the meantime, email works fine.

 

Cheers,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 35/3 MaxProp

[dwight]

The Brunton Autoprop solves all those pitch problems.really it is a great
prop that has low drag while sailing, I have the H5 Autoprop on Alianna,
works as it should and has done so for 10 years without service of any kind.
No connections, the prop came installed on Alianna when I bought her.

 

http://www.autoprop.com/autoprop/international/video.html

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung
Sent: January 12, 2014 3:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35/3 MaxProp

 

Joel,

 

I worked this same issue with Calypso's 3 blade MAX prop recently.  Calypso
spent a few years slightly over pitched (1 setting).  It was great in flat
water but lacked the ability to generate full HP when powering into a bigger
wind and seas.

 

Before going around Vancouver Island I dropped the pitch 1 setting.  The
reduced pitch allowed Calypso's Perkins 4-108 to hit full RPM when powering
in rough conditions.  I saw this as a safety issue in case we were caught in
rough seas, lee shore on the west side of the island.

 

I have not noticed a change in fuel consumption, just slightly higher RPM at
when powering at cruise speed in flat water.

 

Back in the 90's I did some Hawaii deliveries on a boat with an early in the
water adjustable pitch MAX prop.  You were able to dive under the boat and
turn a ring to raise and lower the pitch.  Once offshore we increased the
pitch to allow better "fuel mileage" when powering in light air.  The
concept worked well but I wouldn't use/need it around the local waters.

 

Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle

  _  

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Joel Aronson
[joel.aron...@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2014 8:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35/3 MaxProp

All, 

 

The manual form my 2 blade max prop indicates that the pitch was reduced
from 16 to 14 to 12 degrees over the years (last changed in 1997).  I'm
about to send mine in for service (hopefully not for the first time since
1997), and was wondering if 12 degrees sounds right.

 

I should have a report on the cutlass bearing removal in the next day or so.

 

Thanks

Joel

35/3

Annapolis



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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