[Elecraft] Hex Key for sale in UK

2008-11-25 Thread Ian Maude

Hi all,
I am not using my Hexkey so I am selling it.  It is serial 83 for those
interested.  I am selling this for £80 plus carriage, half the price of
new in the UK.



The key is sold.  Thanks for the interest.

73 Ian

--

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP
K2 #4044 |K3 #455
http://www.amateurradiotraining.org

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[Elecraft] K3 K3PR6 AMPS IN-LINE

2008-11-25 Thread K2ZLS
 
For those of you who may want more gain,  It almost looks like you might 
be able to stage these units in-line and be controlled by an external 
bank of switches.  I'm already wondering how many might be used and how 
much trade-off  of SIG-NOISE might be tolerable.Just a thought.


   73's   and have fun.  K2ZLS   Tony
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[Elecraft] xv432

2008-11-25 Thread ron
big thanks to robert friess for helping me get my rig working. simple fix 10 
ohm res in series with the power module input lead. stopped the rig from 
staying keyed at fullpower till i shut it off. now to make some 
contacts.thanks again, ron 


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Re: [Elecraft] Wherefore art thou, K3 (in CQWW)

2008-11-25 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

OK...

or better yet, D'oh!

It was pointed out to me that I live in Zone 4 (I knew that) and operate
from the same.

SCP has it right...
I have been sending 04 for a number of years...

The only problem was that my CQ WW DX certificate states new Zone 5 record
and I bought into it. Oops! ;o)

That record is for Zone 4 and was set using a K2 :o)

Now to see what we can do with a K3 *heheh*

GL and happy huntin' to all this weekend!

73,
Julius
n2wn


Hi Ken,

Look forward to catching you on 160! That would be a new one for me ;o)

K3/100 #366 will be on from Zone 5.

Teams anyone???

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Re: [Elecraft] xv432

2008-11-25 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Ron,

While you are using your XV432, have you experienced any output power 
instability and frequency drift?

Initially, I find power instability in my XV144.  Upon advice from Gary of 
Elecraft, I do some works in improving the grounding of some of the sockets and 
joints.  The problem of power instability seems solved.

I am interested in knowing whether such instability also happened in XV432.  If 
you have time, please give your product review in eham.net

73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC
www.qrz.com/callsign/vr2xmc



--- 2008年11月25日 星期二,ron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 寫道﹕

 寄件人: ron [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 主題: [Elecraft] xv432
 收件人: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 日期: 2008 11 25 星期二 下午 8:56
 big thanks to robert friess for helping me get my rig
 working. simple fix 10 ohm res in series with the power
 module input lead. stopped the rig from staying keyed at
 fullpower till i shut it off. now to make some
 contacts.thanks again, ron 
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RE: [Elecraft] ARRL 160

2008-11-25 Thread Julius Fazekas
Dale,

You make some great points on propagation, worth keeping in mind this weekend...

Just did some propagation plots and 80M looks like it will be the place to 
be... Good chance to add to your DXCC totals.

Ya say no one has a beam on the low low bands, you know 80 and 160?

I know there are a couple JA stations with 3 elements on 80M, but check out 
pages 35 and 36 here: http://www.helsinki.fi/~korpela/PU/PU3_2008.pdf

5 (yes, five) full size elements on 80

AND

3 (!) full size elements on 160!!!

many probably have logged OH8X in past contests, but these monsters should open 
up a whole new bunch of opportunities for folks with less than competitive 
antennas on 160/80!

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #3311
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366


--- On Mon, 11/24/08, Dale Putnam [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: Dale Putnam [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] ARRL 160
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, November 24, 2008, 7:46 PM
 Very good points, Julius, 
   One of the mistakes that I make, and I hear being made is
 the feeling of not being able to be heard.
 That just works against us. Qro has the
 advantage of thinking powerful.. qrp, knows the
 power is in 
 the operator and the props. Now.. we also know we can't
 control the props.. so.. the best we can do is take 
 advantage of, and use to the best the props as they are.
 The second most important tool that we all have
 is the quality of operator... if you aren't as good as
 you want to be.. then that is correctable... but we 
 must not feel poor op... feel GOOD op.. 
   One doesn't have to work through a pile, with out
 learning a lot.. how did the successful ones do it
 different?
 How did they get through and you didn't? How did you
 and they didn't.. and one thing to note... as you get
 better
 take a not of how many QRO ops you pass it is a real
 blast to blow through the pileup, leaving stations calling,
 by being there at the right time, and with the exact set of
 skills to getter done. 
   Oh.. and one last thing one may not assume that all
 signals are reciprical. He is loud, therefore I am loud..
 ok... he is weak, therefore I will be weak to him... not
 true.. 
 he is loud, I am weak... WHAT??
 He is weak, I may be loud, if his beam is looking the other
 way and you say no one has beams on the low bands? 
 Don't assume that one either... or I will miss you, and
 so will a number of other ops. --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in
 Wy
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[Elecraft] FS: KAF2

2008-11-25 Thread WA6L


I just built and installed a KDSP2 in my K2 and I now have a built and
working KAF2 for sale.  It will come with the manual, the control-board
headers, and the standoff.  $55 and I will ship to anywhere in the USA. 
Please contact me off the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

73,

John, WA6L


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[Elecraft] FS K2/100

2008-11-25 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Elecraft K2 #3311 with: 
KPA100
KNB2
KAF2
K160X
KSB2
cables, finger dimple, headphones w/boom mike (new computer type) and
documents.
Physically in excellent shape. 
Never had it on SSB
updated to the latest rev both firmware and hardware 
$825 shipped CONUS

73,
Julius
n2wn
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[Elecraft] [K3] K3AFMDKT

2008-11-25 Thread Roy Morris
After having installed the RFC47 (100 uH choke) it appears the harshness in the 
NR has been reduced (at least in NR F 1-1).  I would be interested in hearing 
what others might have to say about this.  Roy Morris  W4WFB___
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[Elecraft] K3 SDR THE NEXT PHASE

2008-11-25 Thread K2ZLS


   I just can't believe that it's happening.   Computer Software 
Controlled Radio is  HERE  in 2008.  It isn't  Rocket Science to take 
this vision one step into the future.  I can see Ham Radio being 
consumed by the Computer.   We will no longer need a RADIO.  Just a 
COMPUTER.   We look up hams on QRZ and send an E-MAIL.  He receives it, 
the logging program will LOG it, enter it into a DATA BASE and will 
automatically QUE a REQUEST to send a REPLY  E-QSL, complete with  .pdf  
or printable COLOR QSL.  We receive it,  print it,  wall-paper the walls 
with it and have different countries for different rooms.  Think about 
all the savings that can be had,  no 6-meter pre-amps,  no final amps, 
no stackable arrays,  no band-stacking registers and no RADIOS.
ONLY...  extensive Biography's on QRZ.  What will ELECRAFT  evolve 
into? The NEW YEARS RESOLUTION says that there is a SD AMPLIFIER  on 
the horizon.


  73'sHave a great Holiday and  let the fun begin.K2ZLS   Tony
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 No signal from main antenna

2008-11-25 Thread W2LE
Solved - in case anyone else has the same problem:  On the sub-in board 
one of the leads on T1 did not have the paint removed, looked like a 
good solder joint until I got the magnifying glass out.  Removed the 
solder, cleaned off the paint with an Xacto knife, resoldered it, now 
working like it should.


Paul  W2LE

W2LE wrote:

Just installed my KRX3.
With the sub receiver set to main ant, it sounds like there is no 
antenna connected to the sub rcvr.  If I switch the sub rcvr to ATU 
and connect the antenna to Ant 2 it works fine.
MCU is 2.58 and DSP1  2 are 1.94 - just reloaded them. Did I miss 
something?


Thanks for any help.

Paul  2LE
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 SDR THE NEXT PHASE

2008-11-25 Thread Thom LaCosta

At 10:23 AM 11/25/08, K2ZLS wrote:


   I just can't believe that it's happening.


Wellif one simply sells the radio and goes on 
Echolink.


73,
Thom k3hrn


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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Nov 24 - Dec 24, 2008

2008-11-25 Thread Ken Newman


~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
November 24 - December 24, 2008
~
80 METER FOXHUNT (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Each Tuesday Thru Mar 24
9 PM to 10:29 PM Eastern Time USA
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org
~
40 METER FOXHUNT (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Each Thursday Thru Mar 26
9 PM to 10:29 PM Eastern Time USA
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
SKCC Sprint (Straight Key CW)  ... QRP Awards
Nov 26, z to 0200z
Rules: http://www.skccgroup.com/sprint/sks/
~
CQ World Wide DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category!
Nov 29, z to Nov 30, 2359z
Rules: http://www.cqww.com/2008_rules_cqww.pdf
~
MQFD Monthly Sprint (CW/PH/Digital) *** QRP Contest ***
Nov 29, 1800z to 2200z
Rules: http://w2agn.net/mqfdsprint.html
~
Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 2, 0200z to 0400z  (First Monday 9 PM EST)
Rules: http://arsqrp.pbwiki.com/Spartan+Sprints
~
QRP ARCI Topband CW  SSB Sprint *** QRP CONTEST ***
Dec 4, z to 0600z
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/
~
ARRL 160 meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 5, 2200z to Dec 7, 1600z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/rules/2008/160-meters.html
[http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2008]
~
TARA RTTY Mêlée ... 150W category
Dec 6, z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.n2ty.org/seasons/tara_melee_rules.html
[http://www.n2ty.org/seasons/tara_seasons.html]
~
Wake-Up! QRP Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 6, 0600z to 0800z
Rules: 
http://qrp.ru/modules/sections/index.php?op=viewarticleartid=7page=1

~
TOPS Activity 80 Meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 6, 1800z to Dec 7, 1800z
Rules: http://procwclub.yo6ex.ro/tacrules.pdf
~
NAQCC Straight Key/Bug Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
EST: Dec 9, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM
UTC: Dec 10, 0130Z to 0330Z
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html
~
ARRL 10 Meter Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Dec 13, z to Dec 14, 2400z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/rules/2008/10-meters.html
~
MDXA PSK-31/63 DeathMatch  ... QRP Category
Dec 13, z to Dec 14, 2400z
Rules: http://www.mdxa1.org/deathmatch.html
~
Croatian CW Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 13, 1400z to Dec 14, 1400z
Rules: http://www.hamradio.hr/index.php?
~
UBA Low Band Winter Contest (CW/SSB/RTTY/PSK) .. QRP Category
Dec 13, 1700z to 2100z and
Dec 14, 0600z to 1000z
Rules: http://www.uba.be/hf_contests/pdf/uba_winter_en.pdf
~
SKCC Weekend Sprintathon (Straight Key CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 14, z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.skccgroup.com/sprint/wes/
~
The Great Colorado Snowshoe Run (20M CW) *** QRP Contest ***
MST: Dec 14. 1400 to 1559
UTC: Dec 14, 2100z to 2259z
Rules: http://www.cqc.org/contests/snow2008.htm
~
Holiday Spirits Homebrew Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 21, 2000z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org
~
RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST ***
EST: Dec 21, 9 PM to 11 PM
UTC: Dec 22, 0200z 0400z
Rules: http://www.fpqrp.com/
~
SKCC Sprint (Straight Key CW)  ... QRP Awards
Dec 24, z to 0200z
Rules: http://www.skccgroup.com/sprint/sks/
~
Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL), VA3JFF  G4GXL (QRPARCI)
N2APB (AmQRP), WB3AAL (EPAQRP) and others
for assistance in compiling this calendar.

If you wish to subscribe to the Calendar,
send an e-mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Please forward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and
we will post it and give it more publicity.
Anyone may use this N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar for your website,
newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose.
(Include a credit to the source of this material of course.)
72 de
Ken Newman - N2CQ

N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar Links:
http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/Contest/contest.htm

RE: [Elecraft] ARRL 160

2008-11-25 Thread Adam Koczarski

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Julius Fazekas
 Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 5:53 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Dale Putnam
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] ARRL 160
 
 Dale,
 
 I know there are a couple JA stations with 3 elements on 80M, but check
 out pages 35 and 36 here:
 http://www.helsinki.fi/~korpela/PU/PU3_2008.pdf
 

My buddy VE7SZ in Canada has a nice 80m Yagi. Only 3 elements though. Still
bigger than the lot I live on!  :)

Forth picture from the top here:
http://ka7ark.com/STOC/2006CanSTOC2/CanSTOC_2006.htm


Adam - ka7ark


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[Elecraft] K2

2008-11-25 Thread L. D. Ingram

Hi,

I recently build my second K2 sn 06405. Receiver and transmitter are 
working fine and I have enjoyed a number of QSOs on 40, 30 and 20 
meters and the rest of the bands have been checked out with a signal 
generator and transmitting into a dummy load.


However, occasionally when I go to switch bands with the up (+) key 
it will go into the RCL mode instead. After the first time I was very 
careful to just tap the button and not hold it - but it still 
happens. Also, I don't know if this is related or not, but even more 
occasionally, when I hit the down (-) button the band goes to the 
next higher band rather than the lower one. When that happens, the 
band will continue to go higher with each tap of the down button 
until I tap the up button.


I have resoldered the switch pins and checked that the IC's are 
properly seated.


Has anyone else run across this problem - and if so, what was the solution?

Thanks.

73,

Larry Ingram AG4NN  


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Re: [K3] [Elecraft] Loud audio blast on power up

2008-11-25 Thread Chuck - AE4CW

Shep, sorry for the late reply; I've been traveling.

In the K3 Utility under View, check Advanced Mode.  This will display a
check box labeled *Always load DSP data tables*.  Also, be sure to check all
the appropriate boxes for loading the Firmware modules.

This is the solution Gary provided back in March.  Hopefully, it will work
for your problem now.

Chuck, AE4CW



Chuck-
I have the same problem. It started with V2.57. How do I reload data
tables ? 
Thanks
Shep - W2BSB



I had this problem long ago; a reload of the firmware AND the data tables
cured it.  The trick was the data tables.  Thanks to Gary at Elecraft.

Chuck, AE4CW


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[Elecraft] K2 #6614

2008-11-25 Thread Marinos Markomanolakis, M.D.

The K2# 6614 has just formally come to life today. Passed Allignment and test 
part III with flying colors !! Slowly now time for the accessories and options 
to follow.
 
73 to all
Marinos, sv9dru/ki4gin
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RE: [K3] [Elecraft] Loud audio blast on power up

2008-11-25 Thread Dick Dievendorff
You can also load data tables (along with all the other firmware, a complete
refresh) by clicking Send All Firmware to K3 on the Firmware tab without
checking Advanced Mode.  Advanced Mode has too many choices!

Dick, K6KR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chuck - AE4CW
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 9:24 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [K3] [Elecraft] Loud audio blast on power up


Shep, sorry for the late reply; I've been traveling.

In the K3 Utility under View, check Advanced Mode.  This will display a
check box labeled *Always load DSP data tables*.  Also, be sure to check all
the appropriate boxes for loading the Firmware modules.

This is the solution Gary provided back in March.  Hopefully, it will work
for your problem now.

Chuck, AE4CW



Chuck-
I have the same problem. It started with V2.57. How do I reload data
tables ? 
Thanks
Shep - W2BSB



I had this problem long ago; a reload of the firmware AND the data tables
cured it.  The trick was the data tables.  Thanks to Gary at Elecraft.

Chuck, AE4CW


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[Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4

2008-11-25 Thread Ignacy

Below is one of the crazy ideas conceived when waiting for my K3 to
arrive (later this week) and lamenting over the loss of many single-
function buttons from Mark V Field.

One issue with K3 is too many multifunction knobs and buttons. Also,
some analog meters would be nice. Computer controls are fine but they
are hard to use during contests.

I am wondering whether one can have a completely separate front panel
with lots of knobs and buttons, nothin dual purpose. The connections
to K3 could be in 2 ways:

1. via serial cable; easy to do but with some lag, perhaps too long
during contests,

2. via internal K3 bus.

In one extreme, the bigger panel can have a bigger display and even a
panadapter, if needed. In the other extreme, one would only have a
separate panel for selected functions, e.g., separate 2nd rx controls
etc., band buttons, etc.

I propose that the panels be named LP-PANEL1, LP-PANEL2,.

Ignacy, NO9E


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RE: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4

2008-11-25 Thread Darwin, Keith
I think it is a good idea.  In fact, I suggested the same thing for the
K2 before there was a K3 (in those pre-K3, or B3 days).  Elecraft could
create a new version of the K2 (K2-B, B for Big) with a larger front
panel with dedicated controls.  Same for the K3.

I think it would be an easy thing to design and would be a popular
add-on.  I see it as a money maker for Elecraft.

I'm sure they considered it back in B3 and so far we haven't seen it.
My guess is the logistics of making it happen aren't so easy or it
doesn't fit their market model.

- Keith N1AS -
- K3 711 - 

-Original Message-
From:  Ignacy

One issue with K3 is too many multifunction knobs and buttons. Also,
some analog meters would be nice. Computer controls are fine but they
are hard to use during contests.

I am wondering whether one can have a completely separate front panel
with lots of knobs and buttons, nothin dual purpose.
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[Elecraft] K3 TX problem

2008-11-25 Thread Jan Erik Holm

Power can not be set, jumping up and down and all
over the place, also at some power levels I do
get a oscillation sound from the radio.

So I tried to do TX GAIN calibration but no change.

Then I continued with Wattmeter calibration. Both
at 5W and 50W wattmeter can not be calibrated. I
adjust the menu parameter all the way up to 180
and power is still too high, about 7W (5W) and
60W (50W). Seems to me something is wrong with
the wattmeter.

Help please. CQWW is soon.

73 Jim SM2EKM

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Re: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4

2008-11-25 Thread Geoffrey Downs

Dear Ignacy,

Why complicate things? I built my K3 in January this year and didn't use my 
previous rig - the Mark V Field - thereafter. The K3 knocks spots off it and 
I have now sold it. Multi function buttons are not a problem to me - and 
there are several panadapters available if you want one, including the 
LP-Pan, designed with the K3 in mind. I'm sure you'll reach the same 
conclusion when your K3 arrives. Hope you have as much fun with it as I am 
having with mine :-)


73 to all

Geoff
G3UCK

- Original Message - 
From: Ignacy [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 6:20 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4




Below is one of the crazy ideas conceived when waiting for my K3 to
arrive (later this week) and lamenting over the loss of many single-
function buttons from Mark V Field.


Ignacy, NO9E


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RE: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4

2008-11-25 Thread Ken Alexander
I don't know much about this sort of thing, but the command set (for the K2 at 
least) is available, so I would think it would be a relatively simple matter to 
program something like a Basic Stamp to receive pushbutton presses from a small 
outboard control panel and send the appropriate serial command to the K2 or K3. 
 You could probably read status back from the transceiver and illuminate status 
LEDs to show what's going on.

The smarter programmer types could probably use a PIC or two to do this and 
have a separate matrix type LCD to display status in a more attractive fashion.

This something I've always wanted to try.  I'm not totally crazy about needing 
a computer to operate my rig when all I want is a little easier access to some 
of the buried commands.

73 - Ken




--- On Tue, 11/25/08, Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Received: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 6:27 PM
 I think it is a good idea.  In fact, I suggested the same
 thing for the
 K2 before there was a K3 (in those pre-K3, or B3 days). 
 Elecraft could
 create a new version of the K2 (K2-B, B for Big) with a
 larger front
 panel with dedicated controls.  Same for the K3.
 
 I think it would be an easy thing to design and would be a
 popular
 add-on.  I see it as a money maker for Elecraft.
 
 I'm sure they considered it back in B3 and so far we
 haven't seen it.
 My guess is the logistics of making it happen aren't so
 easy or it
 doesn't fit their market model.
 
 - Keith N1AS -
 - K3 711 - 
 
 -Original Message-
 From:  Ignacy
 
 One issue with K3 is too many multifunction knobs and
 buttons. Also,
 some analog meters would be nice. Computer controls are
 fine but they
 are hard to use during contests.
 
 I am wondering whether one can have a completely separate
 front panel
 with lots of knobs and buttons, nothin dual purpose.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2

2008-11-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

Larry,

Might I suggest that you examine the keycap to be certain it is not 
binding on the front panel metal.  That could cause very strange 
behavior.  If it sticks, the switch will not release quickly enough for 
the firmware to differentiate between a tap and a press.  If there is no 
mechanical problem, then you may have a sticky switch that needs to be 
replaced.  The switches are quite reliable and I have never had a sticky 
one, but there is always a first time.  The only difference between a 
tap and a hold is the time the switch is closed (as measured by the 
firmware).  The same firmware routine is used for all other buttons, so 
if it were a firmware problem, all buttons would show similar problems.


As for the BAND- button going to a band up, that is strange, but not 
likely related to the tap/hold situation on the band+ button.  For that, 
I would look at FP U2 and RP1 very closely - reflow the solder with a 
hot iron (750 to 800 deg F) to be sure both the component  leads and the 
solder pads received adequate heat.


73,
Don W3FPR

L. D. Ingram wrote:

Hi,

I recently build my second K2 sn 06405. Receiver and transmitter are 
working fine and I have enjoyed a number of QSOs on 40, 30 and 20 
meters and the rest of the bands have been checked out with a signal 
generator and transmitting into a dummy load.


However, occasionally when I go to switch bands with the up (+) key it 
will go into the RCL mode instead. After the first time I was very 
careful to just tap the button and not hold it - but it still happens. 
Also, I don't know if this is related or not, but even more 
occasionally, when I hit the down (-) button the band goes to the next 
higher band rather than the lower one. When that happens, the band 
will continue to go higher with each tap of the down button until I 
tap the up button.


I have resoldered the switch pins and checked that the IC's are 
properly seated.


Has anyone else run across this problem - and if so, what was the 
solution?



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[Elecraft] Deaf K3 #768

2008-11-25 Thread G4MKP
I reported to the list on Sunday, a 'deaf' K3. The impact of this was
receive levels at about 50dB down from stations measured on my spare
receiver - slightly better with the pre-amp on. Elecraft support asked me to
remove the KXV3 and jumper J66 pins 8-10, 13-15. Receiver sensitivity back
to normal - phew! Board replacement necessary. 

 

This will somewhat limit my antenna configuration for CQWW this coming
weekend - I like to use a horizontal wire on 40m receive - although I guess
I could use the Antenna B position? 

 

Although the supply of the replacement board is not yet finalised, I must
commend Gary Surrency from support for his patience and diligence in helping
me fault find and resolving the issue. Nice people to deal with.

 

Cheers,

 

Terry Burbidge

G4MKP

 

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[Elecraft] Re: K3 TX problem

2008-11-25 Thread Jan Erik Holm

Did some measuring, it looks like one of the
diodes in the SWR bridge is faulty. Will
replace tomorrow.  Thanks to K5ESW

73 Jim SM2EKM

Jan Erik Holm wrote:

Power can not be set, jumping up and down and all
over the place, also at some power levels I do
get a oscillation sound from the radio.

So I tried to do TX GAIN calibration but no change.

Then I continued with Wattmeter calibration. Both
at 5W and 50W wattmeter can not be calibrated. I
adjust the menu parameter all the way up to 180
and power is still too high, about 7W (5W) and
60W (50W). Seems to me something is wrong with
the wattmeter.

Help please. CQWW is soon.

73 Jim SM2EKM



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[Elecraft] K3: New (Jan 2009) ARRL review

2008-11-25 Thread paul.bradbeer2
For those ARRL members...I've just stumbled upon the ARRL's follow-up 
review of the K3 on their website.  Now, back to read the pdf

Regards
Paul M0CVX ex-AC5NO

-
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Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam

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[Elecraft] K3: New (Jan 2009) ARRL review

2008-11-25 Thread Frankie Hunt
What is the link for the review?  I can't seem to find it.
 
Thanks,
Frankie
K4TEN
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[Elecraft] K3: New (Jan 2009) ARRL review

2008-11-25 Thread Frankie Hunt
I found the review.
 
Frankie
K4TEN
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[Elecraft] Attentuation

2008-11-25 Thread Ken Widelitz
How much attenuation does the Attenuator put in line?

Can it be adjusted?

I can't find this in the manual.

73, Ken, K6LA / VY2TT


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: New (Jan 2009) ARRL review

2008-11-25 Thread ab2tc

That is the most perfect ARRL review I can recall having ever seen.
Congratulations, Elecraft and pour a glass of champagne for everyone. You
deserve it.

Knut - AB2TC
K3 #82


paul.bradbeer2 wrote:
 
 For those ARRL members...I've just stumbled upon the ARRL's follow-up
 review of the K3 on their website.  Now, back to read the pdf
 
 Regards
 Paul M0CVX ex-AC5NO
 
 
 


-
AB2TC - Knut
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Re: [Elecraft] Attentuation

2008-11-25 Thread Lyle Johnson

How much attenuation does the Attenuator put in line?


Approximately 10 dB, not adjustable.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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[Elecraft] Australia

2008-11-25 Thread Robert Klein
I am planning to visit Australia in a few months (I live in the U.S.), and I
want to take my K3 with me.  Does anyone know of any restrictions or
prohibitions for packing the K3 (and the power supply) in my suitcase and
taking there?  Do I need some kind of permission or license from the
Australian FCC? 

Also, can anyone recommend an HF antenna for that purpose--I will be staying
in a hotel, presumably with a window that opens, perhaps a balcony?  I
suppose I could hang a random wire out of the window, but I'd like to try
something better if it's not too expensive, heavy or bulky.

Thanks,

Robert
KI4ZHF


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[Elecraft] K3 CW filtering

2008-11-25 Thread Gary Smith
Hi,

Am readying myself to invest in a K3. 

I am a CW op, rarely on any other mode, (haven't used any other mode 
in over four years).

I chase DX and enjoy the occasional contest but am not a dedicated 
contester. On the other hand, I tend to go 100% into any of my 
endeavours and when I contest, I contest to the best of my abilities.

I currently have an Omni V with a set of Inrad CW filters and find 
them a tad too ringy for my liking though I find the 2.4kHz with the 
250Hz narrow filter in line pretty effective. I find the 250Hz filter 
with the 250Hz narrow filter also selected almost too noisy for my 
pleasure.

Sans ringing, I would love a 50Hz filter but reality says I need 
something wider.

That probably says enough about my CW desires as regards the K3. 

With that, what filter should I go with to maximise my CW experience? 

Thanks,

Gary
KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW filtering

2008-11-25 Thread Lee Buller
Gary,

The K3 is an excellent CW rig as that is what I do about 90 percent of the 
time...and now mostly on the low end of 40 meters.  I just have the 5 pole 500 
Hz filter right now and find no objection at all to the roofing filter.  These 
filters are not exactly what most people think when you think about a filter.  
The roofing filter limits the amount of signal enter the radio...like a roof.  
With the DSP type of radio like the k3, the filters are really in the software 
and I can run all the way down to 200 Hz without to much difficulty.  I usually 
run about 400 Hz and find that satisfactory for most DX QSOs.  I do have a 
filter between the ears as reported also by my wife.  

I've wanted to get a 400 Hz 8 pole filter but have not yet had a need for it.  
The key to remember is these filters are roofing filters and the bandwidth of 
each mode is set in software as it is a Software Defined Radio.

Lee - K0WA


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
Common Sense divine?

--- On Tue, 11/25/08, Gary Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Gary Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 CW filtering
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 3:05 PM

Hi,

Am readying myself to invest in a K3. 

I am a CW op, rarely on any other mode, (haven't used any other mode 
in over four years).

I chase DX and enjoy the occasional contest but am not a dedicated 
contester. On the other hand, I tend to go 100% into any of my 
endeavours and when I contest, I contest to the best of my abilities.

I currently have an Omni V with a set of Inrad CW filters and find 
them a tad too ringy for my liking though I find the 2.4kHz with the 
250Hz narrow filter in line pretty effective. I find the 250Hz filter 
with the 250Hz narrow filter also selected almost too noisy for my 
pleasure.

Sans ringing, I would love a 50Hz filter but reality says I need 
something wider.

That probably says enough about my CW desires as regards the K3. 

With that, what filter should I go with to maximise my CW experience? 

Thanks,

Gary
KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: New (Jan 2009) ARRL review

2008-11-25 Thread Ignacy

According to the review, the radio is nearly perfect. Very strong performance
nearly everywhere.

There were only two sets of numbers that could raise questions. 

The TX 3rd order IMD performance was not that good (29db) but it was on the
worst band.  Not sure the testing was before or after the firmware changes
to decrease TX IMD. W8JI praised K3's low SSB IMD.  

The second one was a mediocre performance of the 1.8 filter (see table
below). It had worse close IMD than the 2.7 filter, in some cases by 20db!
On the other hand, everyone in this group praises the 1.8 filter so perhaps
the filter is still doing something useful. Also perhaps the latest 1.8
filters were improved.  


Third Order Intermodulation Dynamic Range (dB) at MDS (preamp off, 14 MHz) 
 
Spacing (kHz)Roofing Filter (Hz) 
above/below 
2800   2700 1800500 400  
20  104/104 105/106 101/98  104/104 105/106  
 5  105/103  96/106  90/84  102/101 106/105  
 2   99/100  90/89   74/82   90/90  106/103  
 1   94/81   89/79   72/81   87/82   99/99   
昀#56547;

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RE: [Elecraft] K3: New (Jan 2009) ARRL review

2008-11-25 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 The second one was a mediocre performance of the 1.8 filter 
 (see table below). It had worse close IMD than the 2.7 
 filter, in some cases by 20db!

Careful reading of the review will reveal that the particular 
1.8 KHz filter was probably defective.  Elecraft run much 
higher signal levels in the first IF filter than other radios. 
That higher signal level can cause filter generated IMD if the 
crystals are not absolutely clean.  

Elecraft (and INRAD) are working on improved testing procedures 
to weed out those filters that are insufficient to handle the 
signals levels in the K3 (and divert them to use with Yaesu 
transceivers G). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ignacy
 Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 4:20 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: New (Jan 2009) ARRL review
 
 
 
 According to the review, the radio is nearly perfect. Very 
 strong performance nearly everywhere.
 
 There were only two sets of numbers that could raise questions. 
 
 The TX 3rd order IMD performance was not that good (29db) but 
 it was on the worst band.  Not sure the testing was before or 
 after the firmware changes to decrease TX IMD. W8JI praised 
 K3's low SSB IMD.  
 
 The second one was a mediocre performance of the 1.8 filter 
 (see table below). It had worse close IMD than the 2.7 
 filter, in some cases by 20db! On the other hand, everyone in 
 this group praises the 1.8 filter so perhaps the filter is 
 still doing something useful. Also perhaps the latest 1.8 
 filters were improved.  
 
 
 Third Order Intermodulation Dynamic Range (dB) at MDS 
 (preamp off, 14 MHz)   
 Spacing (kHz)  Roofing Filter (Hz) 
 above/below 
   2800   2700 1800500 
 400
 20104/104 105/106 101/98  104/104 
 105/106
  5105/103  96/106  90/84  102/101 106/105  
  2 99/100  90/89   74/82   90/90  106/103  
  1 94/81   89/79   72/81   87/82   99/99   
 昀#56547;
 
 -- 
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 http://n2.nabble.com/K3%3A-New-%28Jan-2009%29-ARRL-review-tp15
77963p1578264.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: New (Jan 2009) ARRL review

2008-11-25 Thread Toby Deinhardt
Careful reading of the review will reveal that the particular 
1.8 KHz filter was probably defective.  Elecraft run much 
higher signal levels in the first IF filter than other radios. 
That higher signal level can cause filter generated IMD if the 
crystals are not absolutely clean.  


I've had two sets of filters (2x 2.1kHz and 2x 1.8kHz) and all four 
filters showed more or less similar dynamic performance to what the ARRL 
has seen. My filter setup is as follows: FM, 2700, 2100, 1800, 400 in 
the main RX and in the KRX3 6000, 2700, 2100, 1800, 400.


I agree with you about the possible cause and I do know that Elecraft 
has been working hard on improving this, but all four of these filters 
did not prove to be terribly detrimental in any of the shortwave SSB 
contests my K3 has been used in or during the pile ups when it was with 
us on the Faeroe Islands (OY).


To use German expression: Lets leave the church in the village. In other 
words, there is no need for storm in a tea glass.


While the dynamic range is not as good as one might want, these filters 
are still very good for fishing out a weak one, stuck between two big guns.


vy 73 de toby
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW filtering

2008-11-25 Thread John W2XS

With that, what filter should I go with to maximise my CW experience? 

I took the posted advice that only the first 30 dB of attenuation really
mattered for a roofing filter, and therefore I ordered the 5-pole CW filters
(500 and 200 Hz).  I am happy with the choice. The main reason to use the
roofing filters in the first place is to prevent the DSP from overloading. I
once had a receiver that had FB DSP selectivity but no roofing filters and
that would overload (de-sense) when strong signals were nearby. It is a
good feeling to dial the selectivity down to 200 Hz and know that nothing
will get through above and below that little window. Ringing doesn't seem to
be an issue.

Of course, YMMV, and other people feel good about having the steeper skirts
of the 8-pole filters.

73,  John W2XS
K3 #919 (etc.)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW filtering

2008-11-25 Thread hank k8dd
- Original Message - 
From: Gary Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]


With that, what filter should I go with to maximise my CW experience?



Like John W2XS I went with the 500  200 Hz filters.  In CQ WPX CW
I could slowly tune up 20M and work the European stations in between the
loud east coast stations - it was like they were not there.   Very 
impressive!

And no ringing.I have not cranked the width down to 50 Hz, but the times
that I did were pretty effective.

I had a 1.8 filter that I thought was going to be good for SSB and OK for
CW.  I didn't like it on SSB and it was too wide on CW - stations 1 KHz
away would nail the AGC, so I traded it for a 1.0 filter.

So  for CW I believe that the 1.0, 500, 200 is an excellent combination,
although I have not had the chance to use the 8 pole narrow CW filters if
one is to believe the numbers that W4ZV, W4TV, and others have come
up with comparing the 5 and 8 pole filters, it doesn't appear that there is 
a

whole lot of difference between them.  At least not to the average human
ear!

That's how I see it here in the woods in MI!

73HankK8DD

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Re: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Colour Contrast

2008-11-25 Thread Fred Jensen

Alan Bloom wrote:

The issue is not aesthetics, but rather utility.  Something like 9% of
American males are red-green color blind (by far the most common type of
color blindness).  There are certain colors, and certain combinations of
colors, that are very difficult for them to discern.  It makes sense for
manufacturers to choose colors that can be seen easily both by people
with normal color vision and those of us with some degree of red-green
color blindness.



I am monochromatic [pretty rare unless you're from a remote island in 
the S. Pacific I can't remember the name of -- I'm not from there and 
I'm pretty sure none of my ancestors are either].  I can't see the 
numerals on my K3 keypad which my wife tells me are red on a dark gray 
button.  I can discern all the rest of the legends.  I've figured out 
where the keypad keys are however so I'm not going to file an ADA suit 
against Elecraft :-)  I do have much better vision in very dim light 
than all the rest of you.


Please don't ask me, What colors can you see?  I can see all of them. 
I just can't name them, and lots of them all look alike to me.  I began 
to realize I wasn't discerning colors well when everyone had a lot of 
names for colors that looked the same to me.  I realized I was 
monochromatic when color TV appeared and it looked just like BW.  I've 
run across some pretty difficult web sites.  Windoze Default color 
scheme works OK for me.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2009 Cal QSO Party  3-4 Oct 2009
- www.cqp.org
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[Elecraft] K3: New (Jan 2009) ARRL review

2008-11-25 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast

Hi All,

I don't know about you, but this recent ARRL review makes me extremely 
proud to own a K3 and be affiliated with this company and all its 
talented staff.


And it's an American company to boot. Would you ever imagine

Happy Thanksgiving Eric, Wayne, Lyle, et.al at Elecraft.

You should all be very proud of the K3 project and what you have 
accomplished. Outstanding.


73 de N1LQ-Dave


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[Elecraft] 6 meter blocking gain in K3 QST review

2008-11-25 Thread Alan Bloom
Congratualations to Elecraft for the great QST review of the K3.

I noticed that the blocking gain figures at 5 and 1 kHz offset are much
worse on 6 meters (128/124 dB) than on 20 meters (140/140 dB).  At 20
kHz offset the numbers are comparable.

The only reason I can think of for that is worse phase noise on 6
meters.  Or is it just a typo in the QST review?

Al N1AL


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[Elecraft] Phillips hold-tite screwdriver mod

2008-11-25 Thread Barbara Maloney
Hello list members,
I found a trick for holding small screws on the end of the screwdriver until 
you can get them into a tight place and started.   A small amount of electrical 
connector black seal mastic or putty shaped on the end of the driver takes up 
the gap enough to hold the screw until you get it thru the hole and started.  
Once pulled away, the putty stays on the screwdriver. 
Great for removing screws also.  Once in a while the mastic needs reshaped to 
the tip of the screwdriver to hold the screw securely.   It beats fingering the 
tiny screws into close spaces and hoping you dont drop it before you can get 
the screwdriver head on it. 
I was able to complete assembly on my K3/2170 today and didnt drop a single 
screw in the process, thanks to this method.  
Mike, AC5P  ___
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RE: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Colour Contrast

2008-11-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
-Original Message-

I am monochromatic [pretty rare unless you're from a remote island in 
the S. Pacific I can't remember the name of -- I'm not from there and 
I'm pretty sure none of my ancestors are either].  I can't see the 
numerals on my K3 keypad which my wife tells me are red on a dark gray 
button.  I can discern all the rest of the legends.  I've figured out 
where the keypad keys are however so I'm not going to file an ADA suit 
against Elecraft :-)  I do have much better vision in very dim light 
than all the rest of you.

Please don't ask me, What colors can you see?  I can see all of them. 
I just can't name them, and lots of them all look alike to me.  I began 
to realize I wasn't discerning colors well when everyone had a lot of 
names for colors that looked the same to me.  I realized I was 
monochromatic when color TV appeared and it looked just like BW.  I've 
run across some pretty difficult web sites.  Windoze Default color 
scheme works OK for me.

73,

Fred K6DGW
___

I was just reviewing a recently-published report that included the
observation that when we view a color, one specific area of our brain
becomes active. But, once we assign a name to the color, a wholly different
part of the brain springs into action when we see it and the original area
remains inactive. 

In short, colors with names go over there. Those without names are over
here...

Ron AC7AC


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RE: [K3] [Elecraft] Loud audio blast on power up

2008-11-25 Thread John E. Reiser
I noticed recently that on power up my K3 makes a noise for a fraction of a
second.  It sounds like background atmospheric noise as it would sound with
the SSB filter active, even though the radio was last powered off with a CW
filter set.  I don't remember exactly when this behavior began, but it seems
that it was in the last few beta firmware releases.  In every other respect
my K3 behaves normally.

Obviously, this is no big deal.  However, I did try reloading the latest
beta version, as suggested on this reflector.  I always use Send All
Firmware to K3, which reloads the data tables.  It didn't help.

Could it be that recent firmware versions impose a slight delay before the
filter selection stored on power down is implemented on power up?

John, W2GW



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dick Dievendorff
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 12:47 PM
To: 'Chuck - AE4CW'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [K3] [Elecraft] Loud audio blast on power up


You can also load data tables (along with all the other firmware, a complete
refresh) by clicking Send All Firmware to K3 on the Firmware tab without
checking Advanced Mode.  Advanced Mode has too many choices!

Dick, K6KR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chuck - AE4CW
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 9:24 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [K3] [Elecraft] Loud audio blast on power up


Shep, sorry for the late reply; I've been traveling.

In the K3 Utility under View, check Advanced Mode.  This will display a
check box labeled *Always load DSP data tables*.  Also, be sure to check all
the appropriate boxes for loading the Firmware modules.

This is the solution Gary provided back in March.  Hopefully, it will work
for your problem now.

Chuck, AE4CW



Chuck-
I have the same problem. It started with V2.57. How do I reload data
tables ?
Thanks
Shep - W2BSB



I had this problem long ago; a reload of the firmware AND the data tables
cured it.  The trick was the data tables.  Thanks to Gary at Elecraft.

Chuck, AE4CW


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Re: [Elecraft] Phillips hold-tite screwdriver mod

2008-11-25 Thread Brendan Minish
I have been using beeswax for years to do this job.
A small lump of beeswax will last for pretty much ever in this role.
Just stick the point of the screwdriver in it when you need to hold
screws to the tip 

73
Brendan EI6IZ

On Tue, 2008-11-25 at 15:50 -0800, Barbara Maloney wrote:
 Hello list members,
 I found a trick for holding small screws on the end of the screwdriver
 until you can get them into a tight place and started.   A small
 amount of electrical connector black seal mastic or putty shaped on
 the end of the driver takes up the gap enough to hold the screw until
 you get it thru the hole and started.  Once pulled away, the
 putty stays on the screwdriver. 
 Great for removing screws also.  Once in a while the mastic needs
 reshaped to the tip of the screwdriver to hold the screw securely.
 It beats fingering the tiny screws into close spaces and hoping you
 dont drop it before you can get the screwdriver head on it. 
 I was able to complete assembly on my K3/2170 today and didnt drop a
 single screw in the process, thanks to this method.  
 Mike, AC5P  
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RE: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4

2008-11-25 Thread Mike McLendon
 My K3 has 54 buttons outboard and a multi-purpose knob!  These accessories
are available from XKEYS.com and Griffin Technologies (Powermate). The XKEY
product comes with software and I have made available, software for the
Powermate. This is just a suggestion for the group - I have no affiliation
other than customer with these companies.

With software with which you can easily assign functions, these are
interesting accessories that take advantage of the rich commands Elecraft
provides with the K3 and K2.  Want a direct bandswitch?  No problem. Memory
channel tuning knob? No problem.



Have fun!

73 - Mike, KE4U


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Alexander
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:09 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Darwin, Keith
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4

I don't know much about this sort of thing, but the command set (for the K2
at least) is available, so I would think it would be a relatively simple
matter to program something like a Basic Stamp to receive pushbutton presses
from a small outboard control panel and send the appropriate serial command
to the K2 or K3.  You could probably read status back from the transceiver
and illuminate status LEDs to show what's going on.

The smarter programmer types could probably use a PIC or two to do this and
have a separate matrix type LCD to display status in a more attractive
fashion.

This something I've always wanted to try.  I'm not totally crazy about
needing a computer to operate my rig when all I want is a little easier
access to some of the buried commands.

73 - Ken




--- On Tue, 11/25/08, Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Received: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 6:27 PM I think it is a good 
 idea.  In fact, I suggested the same thing for the
 K2 before there was a K3 (in those pre-K3, or B3 days). 
 Elecraft could
 create a new version of the K2 (K2-B, B for Big) with a larger front 
 panel with dedicated controls.  Same for the K3.
 
 I think it would be an easy thing to design and would be a popular 
 add-on.  I see it as a money maker for Elecraft.
 
 I'm sure they considered it back in B3 and so far we haven't seen it.
 My guess is the logistics of making it happen aren't so easy or it 
 doesn't fit their market model.
 
 - Keith N1AS -
 - K3 711 -
 
 -Original Message-
 From:  Ignacy
 
 One issue with K3 is too many multifunction knobs and buttons. Also, 
 some analog meters would be nice. Computer controls are fine but they 
 are hard to use during contests.
 
 I am wondering whether one can have a completely separate front panel 
 with lots of knobs and buttons, nothin dual purpose.
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Re: [Elecraft] Phillips hold-tite screwdriver mod

2008-11-25 Thread J. Heide
If you have a phillips head screw just getting ready to strip out on you, just 
put a touch of valve lapping compound on your screwdriver. The grit will give a 
little extra grip to help prevent slippage. Works great, but finding valve 
lapping compound is a bit hard these days. I drive a Plymouth with a flathead, 
so it's in my shop.

73
Josh K6ZRX

On Tue, 2008-11-25 at 15:50 -0800, Barbara Maloney wrote:
  Hello list members,
  I found a trick for holding small screws on the end of the screwdriver
  until you can get them into a tight place and started.   A small
  amount of electrical connector black seal mastic or putty shaped on
  the end of the driver takes up the gap enough to hold the screw until
  you get it thru the hole and started.  Once pulled away, the
  putty stays on the screwdriver. 
  Great for removing screws also.  Once in a while the mastic needs
  reshaped to the tip of the screwdriver to hold the screw securely.
  It beats fingering the tiny screws into close spaces and hoping you
  dont drop it before you can get the screwdriver head on it. 
  I was able to complete assembly on my K3/2170 today and didnt drop a
  single screw in the process, thanks to this method.  
  Mike, AC5P  
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fix the situation yourself. It‘s dangerous. Leave it to a highly untrained, 
unqualified, expendable professional. 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3PR6 AMPS IN-LINE

2008-11-25 Thread Robert Friess
Putting more than one Preamp in line is unlikely to be beneficial because
the receiver dynamic range will be seriously compromised with very little
increase in sensitivity.  That is why the K3 is designed with the very
minimum gain before the roofing filters.

73,
Bob, N6CM and PR6 design engineer

On Tue, Nov 25, 2008 at 7:42 AM, wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Could you post something sane to the reflector?

 W

 On Nov 25, 2008, at 1:55 AM, Robert Friess wrote:

 Oh my,

 Bob

 On Tue, Nov 25, 2008 at 1:13 AM, K2ZLS [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  For those of you who may want more gain,  It almost looks like you
might
 be
 able to stage these units in-line and be controlled by an external bank
 of
 switches.  I'm already wondering how many might be used and how much
 trade-off  of SIG-NOISE might be tolerable.Just a thought.

  73's   and have fun.  K2ZLS   Tony
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 ---

 http://www.elecraft.com



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[Elecraft] Australia

2008-11-25 Thread Kevin Luxford
Greetings all.  Here is the reply I sent in response to Robert's query - 
it may be of use to others.


Go to http://www.acma.gov.au/WEB/STANDARD/pc=PC_1311 which is on the web 
site of the Australian Communications and Media Authority - the 
government body charged with licensing and regulation.  Also, see 
http://www.wia.org.au/discover/visitorinfo/about/.


You would be well advised to bring a certified copy of your U.S. licence 
and the specifications of the K3 for our Customs officers.  The 
specifications will clearly show that the apparatus is intended for the 
Amateur bands.  While on the aircraft coming to Australia, read 
carefully the immigration, agriculture and customs card that you will be 
asked to complete and sign.  From that you will be able to determine 
what you need to declare.  As in the U.S., do not try to hoodwink our 
authorities - they can morph instantly from friendly, laid-back 
officials to pitbulls.


As for antennas - Australia is largely a flat country with plenty of 
eucalypt trees (like you see in California - you know, the ones that 
spontaneously burst into flaming torches during fire storms) which can 
serve as a support for a random length wire antenna.  A suitable ground 
may be a problem, especially during our summer in the southern states as 
we have endured over ten years of drought and the ground is pretty dry.  
So I would recommend that you have a counterpoise for each band on which 
you want to operate.  80 meters is often used in the evening, 40 metres 
during the day, and 20 metres for DX when propagation is good.  
Occasionally, 10 metres opens up, but it is best down here near the top 
of the sun spot cycle.  15 metres is known here as the JA band - a lot 
of Japanese stations are active on it.  2 metres and 70 centimetres are 
well endowed with repeaters and their locations and frequencies are 
available on the Wireless Institute of Australia (our equivalent to the 
ARRL) at http://www.wia.org.au/members/repeaters/about/ and 
http://www.wia.org.au/members/repeaters/data/.


Also bear in mind that our mains power supply is 230 volts AC 50 Hz so 
you may need to bring or buy a step-down transformer if you wish to use 
U.S. appliances.


Another thing.  While on the WIA site, get hold of our bandplans.  Our 
allowed frequencies and modes do differ from the U.S. in some areas - 
especially 80 metres.


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Re: [Elecraft] Australia

2008-11-25 Thread Ignacy

I visited VK2 twice and never a hint of problems or questions. No worries. A
license (VK2ISF) took 1 hr but now with CEPT this is not needed. 
Please see report at http://www.eham.net/articles/17751.
Ignacy, NO9E



Kevin Luxford wrote:
 
 Greetings all.  Here is the reply I sent in response to Robert's query - 
 it may be of use to others.
 
 Go to http://www.acma.gov.au/WEB/STANDARD/pc=PC_1311 which is on the web 
 site of the Australian Communications and Media Authority - the 
 government body charged with licensing and regulation.  Also, see 
 http://www.wia.org.au/discover/visitorinfo/about/.
 
 You would be well advised to bring a certified copy of your U.S. licence 
 and the specifications of the K3 for our Customs officers.  The 
 specifications will clearly show that the apparatus is intended for the 
 Amateur bands.  While on the aircraft coming to Australia, read 
 carefully the immigration, agriculture and customs card that you will be 
 asked to complete and sign.  From that you will be able to determine 
 what you need to declare.  As in the U.S., do not try to hoodwink our 
 authorities - they can morph instantly from friendly, laid-back 
 officials to pitbulls.
 
 As for antennas - Australia is largely a flat country with plenty of 
 eucalypt trees (like you see in California - you know, the ones that 
 spontaneously burst into flaming torches during fire storms) which can 
 serve as a support for a random length wire antenna.  A suitable ground 
 may be a problem, especially during our summer in the southern states as 
 we have endured over ten years of drought and the ground is pretty dry.  
 So I would recommend that you have a counterpoise for each band on which 
 you want to operate.  80 meters is often used in the evening, 40 metres 
 during the day, and 20 metres for DX when propagation is good.  
 Occasionally, 10 metres opens up, but it is best down here near the top 
 of the sun spot cycle.  15 metres is known here as the JA band - a lot 
 of Japanese stations are active on it.  2 metres and 70 centimetres are 
 well endowed with repeaters and their locations and frequencies are 
 available on the Wireless Institute of Australia (our equivalent to the 
 ARRL) at http://www.wia.org.au/members/repeaters/about/ and 
 http://www.wia.org.au/members/repeaters/data/.
 
 Also bear in mind that our mains power supply is 230 volts AC 50 Hz so 
 you may need to bring or buy a step-down transformer if you wish to use 
 U.S. appliances.
 
 Another thing.  While on the WIA site, get hold of our bandplans.  Our 
 allowed frequencies and modes do differ from the U.S. in some areas - 
 especially 80 metres.
  
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View this message in context: 
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RE: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4

2008-11-25 Thread Ken Alexander
Wow...interesting!  Thanks Mike!

As much as I'd like to try building a control panel myself, this would insure 
that the project actually gets done!

I'm looking at the OEM Xkeys Matrix Board.  It looks to me like you need a 
computer to program it to do what you want, and then the output is via USB.  If 
so, then I'd need a USB-to-serial converter to interface it with a K2.  Seems 
to me I remember seeing warnings that the K2's I/O port isn't a pure RS-232 
port.  Am I going to need something else to keep everything talking safely?

Thanks for any help...we're boldly going where I've never gone before!

73 - Ken


--- On Wed, 11/26/08, Mike McLendon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: Mike McLendon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Received: Wednesday, November 26, 2008, 1:13 AM
 My K3 has 54 buttons outboard and a multi-purpose knob! 
 These accessories
 are available from XKEYS.com and Griffin Technologies
 (Powermate). The XKEY
 product comes with software and I have made available,
 software for the
 Powermate. This is just a suggestion for the group - I have
 no affiliation
 other than customer with these companies.
 
 With software with which you can easily assign functions,
 these are
 interesting accessories that take advantage of the rich
 commands Elecraft
 provides with the K3 and K2.  Want a direct bandswitch?  No
 problem. Memory
 channel tuning knob? No problem.
 
 
 
 Have fun!
 
 73 - Mike, KE4U
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken
 Alexander
 Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:09 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Darwin, Keith
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Conversion from K3 to K3Plus or K4
 
 I don't know much about this sort of thing, but the
 command set (for the K2
 at least) is available, so I would think it would be a
 relatively simple
 matter to program something like a Basic Stamp to receive
 pushbutton presses
 from a small outboard control panel and send the
 appropriate serial command
 to the K2 or K3.  You could probably read status back from
 the transceiver
 and illuminate status LEDs to show what's going on.
 
 The smarter programmer types could probably use a PIC or
 two to do this and
 have a separate matrix type LCD to display status in a more
 attractive
 fashion.
 
 This something I've always wanted to try.  I'm not
 totally crazy about
 needing a computer to operate my rig when all I want is a
 little easier
 access to some of the buried commands.
 
 73 - Ken

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Re: [Elecraft] Phillips hold-tite screwdriver mod

2008-11-25 Thread Iain MacDonnell - K6IAM


Or get some Screw-Grab! :)

http://www.screwgrab.com/

The Solder-IT guy was selling it at Dayton this year...

~Iain




J. Heide wrote:

If you have a phillips head screw just getting ready to strip out on you, just 
put a touch of valve lapping compound on your screwdriver. The grit will give a 
little extra grip to help prevent slippage. Works great, but finding valve 
lapping compound is a bit hard these days. I drive a Plymouth with a flathead, 
so it's in my shop.

73
Josh K6ZRX

On Tue, 2008-11-25 at 15:50 -0800, Barbara Maloney wrote:

Hello list members,
I found a trick for holding small screws on the end of the screwdriver
until you can get them into a tight place and started.   A small
amount of electrical connector black seal mastic or putty shaped on
the end of the driver takes up the gap enough to hold the screw until
you get it thru the hole and started.  Once pulled away, the
putty stays on the screwdriver. 
Great for removing screws also.  Once in a while the mastic needs

reshaped to the tip of the screwdriver to hold the screw securely.
It beats fingering the tiny screws into close spaces and hoping you
dont drop it before you can get the screwdriver head on it. 
I was able to complete assembly on my K3/2170 today and didnt drop a
single screw in the process, thanks to this method.  
Mike, AC5P  
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-- Don‘t complain. Nobody will understand. Or care. And certainly don‘t try to fix the situation yourself. It‘s dangerous. Leave it to a highly untrained, unqualified, expendable professional. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com 
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[Elecraft] K3 Logic 8

2008-11-25 Thread Gary Smith
My official hi to the group,

I just placed my order for a K3 today so the gears are in motion.

Anyone using Logic 8 with the K3? It looks like Logic is set up for 
the K2 but I didn't see anything for the K3.

Or are the commands the same for both K2  K3?

Thanks!

Gary
KA1J
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[Elecraft] QST Review: Minor Quibble

2008-11-25 Thread Dr. James C. Garland
This really IS a minor quibble, but the QST review noted that some hams
might prefer the larger and more widely spaced buttons and knobs on full
size transceivers. Turns out this isn't generally correct.  By coincidence,
a couple of days ago I compared the front panel layout on my K3 and my
FT-2000D.  Here are the results:

 

K3:   39 buttons, 11 knobs 

FT2000D:  79 buttons, 26 knobs

 

(So the K3 has roughly half as many knobs and buttons as the Yaesu. What is
interesting, however, is the comparison of the knob sizes:)

 

Inner concentric knobs :

K3:.50 dia

FT2K.46 dia

 

Outer concentric knobs:

K3:   .75 dia

FT2K.64 dia

 

Single knobs:

K3:  .56 dia 

FT2K:   .73 dia (only 3)

 

(Thus, in most cases, the K3's knobs are as large or larger than those in
the FT2K.)

 

Knob Spacing: 

K3: 1

FT2K 1.1

(No significant difference, although the different knob
groupings between the two rigs makes comparisons difficult.)

 

Where the FT2K outshines the K3 is in the tuning knobs, but even here the
difference is less than one might expect.

K3:   1.9 (Main), 1.2 (Sub)

FT2K2.4 (Main), 1.4 (Sub)

(The FT2K's main knob has a much higher quality feel to it than
the K3's knob, but that's another story).

 

Basically, the two radios are roughly equivalent as far as knob and button
sizes and spacing are concerned. There are minor differences, but nothing
substantial. What is impressive to me is how Elecraft managed to get so much
convenient functionality with so few knobs and buttons.  Admittedly, some of
the single button functions on the Yaesu are nice - especially the mode and
band buttons - but in my opinion this benefit is outweighed by the huge
number of buttons and knobs a user has to memorize.

 

73,

 

Jim W8ZR

 

 

 

 

 

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Logic 8

2008-11-25 Thread Phil and Christina
I use Logic 8 with my K3.  Choose the K2 setting, but it works fine.  Reads
radio data as you log and allows some rig control from the program too.  I
don't do anything fancy with it, but it seems fine for the basic operations.
Logic 8 also has contest log forms for many contests.  I used the SS form
for the SSB contest recently.

Phil
NS7P

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Smith
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 6:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3  Logic 8


My official hi to the group,

I just placed my order for a K3 today so the gears are in motion.

Anyone using Logic 8 with the K3? It looks like Logic is set up for
the K2 but I didn't see anything for the K3.

Or are the commands the same for both K2  K3?

Thanks!

Gary
KA1J
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Logic 8

2008-11-25 Thread Greg
There's a problem when clicking on spots in Logic 8.  I often find it
necessary to click the spot two times.  The first time
sets the freq OK but it does not always set the mode.  Clicking a spot a
second time sets the mode.

I've tried to work with Dennis on this and he made an attempt but it did not
fix the problem and he did not want to
persue it further.  I was pretty disappointed.

73
Greg
AB7R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Phil and Christina
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 6:57 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3  Logic 8


I use Logic 8 with my K3.  Choose the K2 setting, but it works fine.  Reads
radio data as you log and allows some rig control from the program too.  I
don't do anything fancy with it, but it seems fine for the basic operations.
Logic 8 also has contest log forms for many contests.  I used the SS form
for the SSB contest recently.

Phil
NS7P

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Smith
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 6:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3  Logic 8


My official hi to the group,

I just placed my order for a K3 today so the gears are in motion.

Anyone using Logic 8 with the K3? It looks like Logic is set up for
the K2 but I didn't see anything for the K3.

Or are the commands the same for both K2  K3?

Thanks!

Gary
KA1J
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RE: [Elecraft] Phillips hold-tite screwdriver mod

2008-11-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
A magnetized screwdriver does a FB job as well, and it'll hold the lock washer 
on the screw in the process. There's nothing in the K3 that will be damaged by 
a magnetized screwdriver. 

I should point out that the test K3 was assembled using ONLY the tools listed 
in the manual. That's my rule for validating the procedures. In that test the 
long-nose pliers listed in the tools were sometimes used to hold the screw 
while it was positioned then the driver threaded it into the nut. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brendan Minish
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 4:45 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Phillips hold-tite screwdriver mod

I have been using beeswax for years to do this job.
A small lump of beeswax will last for pretty much ever in this role.
Just stick the point of the screwdriver in it when you need to hold
screws to the tip 

73
Brendan EI6IZ

On Tue, 2008-11-25 at 15:50 -0800, Barbara Maloney wrote:
 Hello list members,
 I found a trick for holding small screws on the end of the screwdriver
 until you can get them into a tight place and started.   A small
 amount of electrical connector black seal mastic or putty shaped on
 the end of the driver takes up the gap enough to hold the screw until
 you get it thru the hole and started.  Once pulled away, the
 putty stays on the screwdriver. 
 Great for removing screws also.  Once in a while the mastic needs
 reshaped to the tip of the screwdriver to hold the screw securely.
 It beats fingering the tiny screws into close spaces and hoping you
 dont drop it before you can get the screwdriver head on it. 
 I was able to complete assembly on my K3/2170 today and didnt drop a
 single screw in the process, thanks to this method.  
 Mike, AC5P  
 ___

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Logic 8

2008-11-25 Thread Gary Smith
Hi Phil  Greg

That it works with the K3 is a good thing, I have been using one 
incarnation of Logic or the other since Logic 2. For the most part 
what I want is to be able to log automatically with the band  mode. 
If it didn't work, I'd have to look around for a different software 
and hope it would successfully import my Logic data into it.

Logic uses FoxPro still and I've not found FoxPro to be very user 
friendly and to me it has always seemed quirky if not buggy. Dennis 
seems to be happy to continue to program with FoxPro and I suspect 
the issue is more with FoxPros limitations. 

Dennis can be quite self directed at times. I suspect if he had a K3 
to work with he would make the necessary changes to permit the whole 
suite of options Logic contains to efficiently work with the K3. I 
suppose without his having a K3 to do command testing with, he is 
just guessing and doesn't want to waste his time or some such. He is 
indeed a perfectionist with all the grief that sometimes entails. 

A side note; one thing I've come to understand, the guy has integrity 
 walks the walk. His Sabbath is on Saturday and he had an indoor 
booth at Dayton. He closed down all of Saturday because he refused to 
work on that day, no matter how that impacted his sales.

Since there appears to be some issue with the spotting functions, I 
suspect he wants to do the right thing with the K3  Logic interface. 
If nobody sends one to him to work with, maybe once I get my K3 I 
will send mine to him to play with for a week or so  I'll use my 
trusty Corsair II during the down time. That's probably what he'll 
need to get the issues worked out. 

Thanks for the replies,

Gary
KA1J

 There's a problem when clicking on spots in Logic 8.  I often find it
 necessary to click the spot two times.  The first time sets the freq
 OK but it does not always set the mode.  Clicking a spot a second time
 sets the mode.
 
 I've tried to work with Dennis on this and he made an attempt but it
 did not fix the problem and he did not want to persue it further.  I
 was pretty disappointed.
 
 73
 Greg
 AB7R
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Phil and
 Christina Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 6:57 PM To:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft]
 K3  Logic 8
 
 
 I use Logic 8 with my K3.  Choose the K2 setting, but it works fine. 
 Reads radio data as you log and allows some rig control from the
 program too.  I don't do anything fancy with it, but it seems fine for
 the basic operations. Logic 8 also has contest log forms for many
 contests.  I used the SS form for the SSB contest recently.
 
 Phil
 NS7P
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Smith
 Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 6:43 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3  Logic 8
 
 
 My official hi to the group,
 
 I just placed my order for a K3 today so the gears are in motion.
 
 Anyone using Logic 8 with the K3? It looks like Logic is set up for
 the K2 but I didn't see anything for the K3.
 
 Or are the commands the same for both K2  K3?
 
 Thanks!
 
 Gary
 KA1J
 ___
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 ___
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 Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
 
 


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[Elecraft] KXV3 RX ANT IN/OUT Question

2008-11-25 Thread Ken Widelitz
Does the RX ANT IN default to connecting to the RX ANT OUT? If RX ANT is not
selected by the K3, does the RX ANT IN go directly to the K3's RX ANT OUT?

Ken Widelitz



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RE: [Elecraft] KXV3 RX ANT IN/OUT Question

2008-11-25 Thread Greg
No.  RX ANT must be selected.  I have a QS1R SDR connected between RX IN and
OUT for use as a panadapter and it only works if you turn on the RX ANT
switch.

73
Greg
AB7R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Widelitz
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 7:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXV3 RX ANT IN/OUT Question


Does the RX ANT IN default to connecting to the RX ANT OUT? If RX ANT is not
selected by the K3, does the RX ANT IN go directly to the K3's RX ANT OUT?

Ken Widelitz



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Re: [Elecraft] QST Review: Minor Quibble

2008-11-25 Thread Bill W4ZV

W8ZR:

This really IS a minor quibble, but the QST review noted that some hams
might prefer the larger and more widely spaced buttons and knobs on full
size transceivers. Turns out this isn't generally correct.  

Thank you for actually making those measurements!  Why can't ARRL should
learn to base their opinions on facts?  Your measurements echo my own
experience.  Here's what I wrote in my eHam review:

Regarding the controls, I have large hands (9 from pinky to thumb when
extended) and I have no problems with the controls. Coming from my
experience with a TS-930S, FT-1000MP and Orion, I thought the size of the
controls might be a problem but so far it hasn't.

Overall a very nice review and I loved it when I saw:

20 kHz Blocking Gain Compression (dB)
Key: † Off Scale  (...in the positive direction)

It does appear to me that both 1.8k filters tested were defective and it's
too bad they didn't test a 200 Hz.  ARRL's measurements are somewhat
different than Elecraft's, but overall they look very good.  

I also believe many are fooling themselves thinking the K3 has to be a $4000
radio.  It doesn't need to cost that unless you want the whistles and bells. 
I'm happy not to be forced to pay for AM, FM, General Coverage, ATU, etc
which I don't need.  Most contest K3s can be $3k, even including the KRX3.

73,  Bill


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Re: [Elecraft] 6 meter blocking gain in K3 QST review

2008-11-25 Thread Bill W5WVO
I would also be very interested in the answer to this question. I
was surprised to see these BGC numbers for 6 meters. As a 6-meter
SSB op who lives or dies with the summer VHF contests each year,
where 40-over-S9 sporadic-E propagated signals are packed
elbow-to-elbow on 50 MHz, this is a very important parameter!

Could Wayne or Eric or Lyle provide some insight into this? Would
be very grateful. Hopefully this was just an aberration in the
tested K3, or perhaps a typo, as has been previously mentioned.

Also, I'd appreciate any feedback on the dynamic range degradation
measured with the 1.8 kHz roofing filter. I have one I purchased
recently but have not yet installed it. Was there a bad batch?
How can I know?

Bill W5WVO


- Original Message - 
From: Alan Bloom [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: David and Dianne on Comcast [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 4:25 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] 6 meter blocking gain in K3 QST review


 Congratualations to Elecraft for the great QST review of the K3.

 I noticed that the blocking gain figures at 5 and 1 kHz offset
are much
 worse on 6 meters (128/124 dB) than on 20 meters (140/140 dB).
At 20
 kHz offset the numbers are comparable.

 The only reason I can think of for that is worse phase noise on
6
 meters.  Or is it just a typo in the QST review?

 Al N1AL


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re: [Elecraft] K3 Colour Contrast

2008-11-25 Thread David F. Reed



Fred,

to refresh your memory and in case others are interested in learning 
more about this unusual problem,
the book you are likely think of  is */The Island of the Colorblind/* 
by Oliver Sacks (a noted neurologist), the islands (in Micronesia) are 
Pingelap and Pohnpei.


In the book, he refers to this condition as achromatopsia 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Achromatopsia.


I (like many other males) suffer a form of colorblindness which is far 
less limited than this, but did require a demonstration of ability to 
distinguish red and green under specific conditions to pilot an aircraft 
at night by the FAA.  I can make out resistor color codes under very 
strong light, but barely.


If its not too personal a question and if you can excuse my 
inquisitiveness, is your condition due to being devoid of cones in the 
retina, or is it more a a wiring problem? It seems that the symptom is 
associated with maybe six possible different underlying causes. Do you 
suffer from hemeralopia (blindness in full sun)?


There is an interesting website that lets normally sighted people get an 
idea of how a colorblind person (of differing types) would see 
something. http://www.iamcal.com/toys/colors/. It might prove helpful in 
giving others an idea of how you see things.



Fred Jensen wrote:


I am monochromatic [pretty rare unless you're from a remote island in 
the S. Pacific I can't remember the name of -- I'm not from there and 
I'm pretty sure none of my ancestors are either].  I can't see the 
numerals on my K3 keypad which my wife tells me are red on a dark gray 
button.  I can discern all the rest of the legends.  I've figured out 
where the keypad keys are however so I'm not going to file an ADA suit 
against Elecraft :-)  I do have much better vision in very dim light 
than all the rest of you.


Please don't ask me, What colors can you see?  I can see all of 
them. I just can't name them, and lots of them all look alike to me.  
I began to realize I wasn't discerning colors well when everyone had a 
lot of names for colors that looked the same to me.  I realized I was 
monochromatic when color TV appeared and it looked just like BW.  
I've run across some pretty difficult web sites.  Windoze Default 
color scheme works OK for me.


73,

Fred K6DGW

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RE: [Elecraft] QST Review: Minor Quibble

2008-11-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
There are a significant number of Hams who feel the FT2000D is much, much
too small and crowded too, or that a main tuning knob less than 4 in
diameter is too small. 

 

Frankly, I like much larger rigs too, but I accept the smaller controls in
exchange for the much smaller space these rigs take up. 

 

I (and I suspect many who pine for big rigs) spent most of my professional
and Ham career working with vacuum tube equipment that was, of necessity,
much larger than our rigs today. I can't argue with them that the big old
boat anchors fit the my hands much better. 

 

Ron AC7AC

 

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dr. James C. Garland
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 6:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] QST Review: Minor Quibble

 

This really IS a minor quibble, but the QST review noted that some hams
might prefer the larger and more widely spaced buttons and knobs on full
size transceivers. Turns out this isn't generally correct.  By coincidence,
a couple of days ago I compared the front panel layout on my K3 and my
FT-2000D.  Here are the results:

 

K3:   39 buttons, 11 knobs 

FT2000D:  79 buttons, 26 knobs

 

(So the K3 has roughly half as many knobs and buttons as the Yaesu. What is
interesting, however, is the comparison of the knob sizes:)

 

Inner concentric knobs :

K3:.50 dia

FT2K.46 dia

 

Outer concentric knobs:

K3:   .75 dia

FT2K.64 dia

 

Single knobs:

K3:  .56 dia 

FT2K:   .73 dia (only 3)

 

(Thus, in most cases, the K3's knobs are as large or larger than those in
the FT2K.)

 

Knob Spacing: 

K3: 1

FT2K 1.1

(No significant difference, although the different knob
groupings between the two rigs makes comparisons difficult.)

 

Where the FT2K outshines the K3 is in the tuning knobs, but even here the
difference is less than one might expect.

K3:   1.9 (Main), 1.2 (Sub)

FT2K2.4 (Main), 1.4 (Sub)

(The FT2K's main knob has a much higher quality feel to it than
the K3's knob, but that's another story).

 

Basically, the two radios are roughly equivalent as far as knob and button
sizes and spacing are concerned. There are minor differences, but nothing
substantial. What is impressive to me is how Elecraft managed to get so much
convenient functionality with so few knobs and buttons.  Admittedly, some of
the single button functions on the Yaesu are nice - especially the mode and
band buttons - but in my opinion this benefit is outweighed by the huge
number of buttons and knobs a user has to memorize.

 

73,

 

Jim W8ZR

 

 

 

 

 

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[Elecraft] Bigger K3 and New Review

2008-11-25 Thread Don Rasmussen
Wayne showed me a concept drawing of the original K3.

It was everything you might expect, given the huge popularity of the K2. 

It just looked like a K2 plus and addressed some of the physical limitations of 
K2. It has a slightly bigger box, more memory, etc.

The K2 was, based on many QRP designs of course but with as good as it was 
everyone forgot about that.

And Wayne being a dreamer kept pushing beyond practical limits and Eric kept 
finding a way to make the impossible, practical. I'm told their might have been 
occasional and brief reluctance at times. 

ARE YOU NUTS? ;0)   joking... 

When I first got my K3 I suggested to Wayne that what really struck me was the 
sheer scale of the effort.

It really struck us too was the reply. ;-) Can you imagine?

The K3 has only grown into the size and featured transceiver it is through 
great dreams, a disregard for all that is practical or possible in a fair work 
week, and some talented folks like Lyle. 

I'm very glad to have been around for both the K2 and the K3 rides. I point to 
the latest QST review to suggest that the guys have made it and maybe it's 
Miller Time or whatever equivalent. 

I would have retired after K2, it was a killer effort. K3 - forget it, way too 
much to do over too long a span. And I see no signs of any slowing. 

Wondering what's in the brownies...

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Re: [Elecraft] QST Review: Minor Quibble

2008-11-25 Thread Alan Bloom
On Tue, 2008-11-25 at 20:03, Bill W4ZV wrote:
...
 Regarding the controls, I have large hands (9 from pinky to thumb when
 extended) and I have no problems with the controls.

I have even larger hands: 9.75-inch span.  (I'm 6' 7 tall.)  I have
absolutely no problems with the controls.  I like it that the unit is
portable enough that I can just throw it in a suitcase to take on trips.

Al N1AL


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[Elecraft] Stiffening VFO B knob

2008-11-25 Thread Richard S. Lindzen
I'm personally okay with the front panel design, but I wish the VFO B 
knob had a bit more friction.  Is there any recommended way of adding 
this?  Should I just try to cut a felt pad and place it between the 
knob and the panel?


Dick Lindzen, KA1SA
301 Lake Avenue
Newton, MA 02461 USA

1-617-332-4342 


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[Elecraft] K3 review

2008-11-25 Thread Gary Gregory
Hello,

Well it makes no difference to me what the ARRL/QST magazine writes. At the
end of the day my K3 outperforms all previous radios I have owned..yep, sold
every last one of them with absolutely no regrets.

It is nice to see that they have figured out the K3 IS the best around.
Trouble is I knew this before them and that makes me feel warm and fuzzy
inside...:-)

73's,
Gary
K3 #679
I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Logic 8

2008-11-25 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

Greg, 

 I've tried to work with Dennis on this and he made an attempt 
 but it did not fix the problem and he did not want to persue 
 it further.  I was pretty disappointed.

I suspect Logic is another of those logging programs that send 
the mode before the frequency.  I suppose I'll dig out a copy 
and the serial port monitor one of these evenings to confirm 
that.  Perhaps I'll even run through all of the logging programs 
that I have for support purposes and document those that will 
have problems with the K3 (known issues: DXBase, DX4Win, AClog 
and Win-EQF so far). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
   



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Greg
 Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 10:10 PM
 To: Phil and Christina; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3  Logic 8
 
 
 There's a problem when clicking on spots in Logic 8.  I often 
 find it necessary to click the spot two times.  The first 
 time sets the freq OK but it does not always set the mode.  
 Clicking a spot a second time sets the mode.
 
 I've tried to work with Dennis on this and he made an attempt 
 but it did not fix the problem and he did not want to persue 
 it further.  I was pretty disappointed.
 
 73
 Greg
 AB7R
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Phil 
 and Christina
 Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 6:57 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3  Logic 8
 
 
 I use Logic 8 with my K3.  Choose the K2 setting, but it 
 works fine.  Reads radio data as you log and allows some rig 
 control from the program too.  I don't do anything fancy with 
 it, but it seems fine for the basic operations. Logic 8 also 
 has contest log forms for many contests.  I used the SS form 
 for the SSB contest recently.
 
 Phil
 NS7P
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Smith
 Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 6:43 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3  Logic 8
 
 
 My official hi to the group,
 
 I just placed my order for a K3 today so the gears are in motion.
 
 Anyone using Logic 8 with the K3? It looks like Logic is set 
 up for the K2 but I didn't see anything for the K3.
 
 Or are the commands the same for both K2  K3?
 
 Thanks!
 
 Gary
 KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] Stiffening VFO B knob

2008-11-25 Thread Joe Planisky

Dick,

There should already be a felt washer under the VFO B knob (at least,  
there is on mine.) To increase the friction, just use an allen wrench  
to loosen the two set screws and position the knob a little closer to  
the front panel.


73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Nov 25, 2008, at 10:18 PM, Richard S. Lindzen wrote:

I'm personally okay with the front panel design, but I wish the VFO  
B knob had a bit more friction.  Is there any recommended way of  
adding this?  Should I just try to cut a felt pad and place it  
between the knob and the panel?


Dick Lindzen, KA1SA
301 Lake Avenue
Newton, MA 02461 USA

1-617-332-4342
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