Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Dave Fugleberg]

Terry - My tower is a MA-40, bracketed to the end of my garage, with a
rotor and TA-33Jr on top.
I've worked 200 DXCC entities with it at 100 watts from here in the RF
black hole of Minnesota, so it seems like an effective setup for me.
It's not a 'super station' but I have plenty of fun with it (and my K3/P3!).
73 de W0ZF
On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 8:22 PM Terry Brown  wrote:

> Hello all,
>
>
>
> I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
> 1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
> moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
> have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.  On
> the
> tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
> and tower  date from the time I became a ham.
>
>
>
> I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
> Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup.
> My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.   The view to the east is
> amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
> rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.   I don't want to have to climb a tower again.  My
> home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
> roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be about
> 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S with
> the tower on the west side of the house.
>
>
>
> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
> smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the US
> Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
> visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft. which
> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to
> the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically
> crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
> questions:
>
>
>
> 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
> the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna
> on
> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be
> the
> direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem.
>
>
>
> 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US Tower is
> just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
> lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.   I think a tubular
> constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of
> installation.
> A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too.
>
>
>
> I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
> neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
> watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
> want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
> been spoiled with that setup over the years.
>
>
>
> Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in
> length that I use for all the other bands.  It is up about 30 ft. suspended
> from the trees in my current QTH.  I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1
> balun to coax.  At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20
> or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a
> vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S
> side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for
> my horizontal loop.  I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the
> NE
> corner.   I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being
> horizontally polarized.  My current one works great so I want the same
> thing
> for my new QTH.
>
>
>
> I look forward to getting some great input from this group.  I have been
> amazed at the level of quality information I have seen on this group.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance to you all.
>
>
>
> 73's,
>
>
>
> Terry Brown, N7TB
>
>
>
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S (power line arc noise)

[Jim - N4ST]

I live in a rural area and the last mile of power lines were put in just for
my house.
I had a dead tree limb fall and hook across the power lines and when it got
wet, it would arc and create horrendous electrical noise.
I called the power company several times to come out and remove the limb but
they didn't respond.
I finally sent them an email saying that I would take care of it myself,
because if I stood on the cab of my pickup I might be able to knock the limb
off with a long stick.
If that didn't work, I would shoot it off.
They came the next morning and removed the limb.

_ 
73,
Jim - N4ST


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
Stengrevics
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 17:44
To: Mike K8CN 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S (power line arc
noise)

Thanks to all for your very helpful comments & suggestions.

John
WA1EAZ

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[Elecraft] FW: Pyle PHA40 Headphone Amp

[len]

 

I bought a pyle PHA40 headphone amp.  It appears to be close in size and
specs to the Behringer HA400.  It powers off the same type of cable used by
the KX2/KX3, same voltage and polarity.  I paid 16.60 for mine on Amazon.

 

I connected it to my KX3 and the audio quality sounds good.  I didn't detect
any extra noise introduced by the amp.

 

73

 

Len

 

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[Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower

[Terry Brown]

Hello all,

 

I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100.  I have been a ham since
1982, and love my Elecraft gear.  I have a question for the group.  I am
moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR  after 30 years.  Currently I
have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof.  On the
tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas.  The beam
and tower  date from the time I became a ham.

 

I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem,
Oregon.  The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup.
My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem.   The view to the east is
amazing as the ground slopes away.  To the west, the terrain has a slight
rise.  I am 68 yrs. old.   I don't want to have to climb a tower again.  My
home will be two stories with the garage level under it.  The peak of my
roof will be about 34 ft. above grade.  My new tower location will be about
32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof.  The roofline will run N-S with
the tower on the west side of the house.  

 

I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a
smaller  tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW.  I have seen the US
Towers MA-40,  a 20-41ft. crankup as one type.  It comes with a tilt over
base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground.
This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being
visible from the street east of the house.  It's max height is 41 ft. which
would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to
the East.  I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically
crank it up by hand as I get older.  With this background I have two
questions:

 

1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above
the roofline (41 ft. tower)  be an effective radiator and receive antenna on
20-15-10 meter bands to the East?  Being on the West Coast, this will be the
direction of most of my mainland US contacts.   To the N-W-S, the antenna
will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. 

 

2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower.  The US Tower is
just the one I have seen on the internet.  I would be interested in any
lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft.   I think a tubular
constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation.
A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too.

 

I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be
neighbor friendly.  I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100
watts.  It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it.  I also
want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.  I have
been spoiled with that setup over the years.

 

Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in
length that I use for all the other bands.  It is up about 30 ft. suspended
from the trees in my current QTH.  I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1
balun to coax.  At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20
or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a
vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S
side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for
my horizontal loop.  I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the NE
corner.   I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being
horizontally polarized.  My current one works great so I want the same thing
for my new QTH.  

 

I look forward to getting some great input from this group.  I have been
amazed at the level of quality information I have seen on this group.

 

Thanks in advance to you all.

 

73's,

 

Terry Brown, N7TB

 

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[Elecraft] KXPD2 ARRIVED

[lmarion]

KXPD2 came today and it works great right out of the box.  Man, the KX2 is a 
super fun rig. 

It is in  time to show it off at the Glacier/Waterton hamfest this coming 
weekend.

  No KPOD  yet though.

Leroy AB7CE
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Re: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping, we could use your help with useful macros

[Jim McDonald]

This is explained better in KE7X's book, specifically the Memories section.
The Frequency Memory Editor program makes it easy to load the K3's memories.

73, Jim N7US


-Original Message-
I originally missed band stacking registers that I was used to before I got
my K3 in 2009, but I use work-arounds.

Two options:

1) Use the MEM 0-9 set to BAND SEL.  Then use the K3 Frequency Memory Editor
program to load memories for memories 0-9 and each band.  For instance, I
have the numeric keypad set:

1   160M
280M
340M
420M
515M
610M
730M
817M
912M
0 6M

Then, for each band M1 is set to a CW frequency, M2 is set to a RTTY
frequency, M3 is SSB, and M4 is JT65.

I'm used to it so I press M->V 4 to go to (the last frequency on) 20M.  Then
I press M->V M2 if I want to go to the RTTY frequency (with AGC, DATA MD,
bandwidth settings, etc.) on 20M I have programmed into that memory.

2) Much easier is to use a program like DXLab with its Commander rig control
module that includes 100 memories including mode, etc.  Clicking on a
cluster spot will QSY the radio and set the mode properly too.

73, Jim N7US


-Original Message-


This is one of the few things that annoys me about my K3S. I work a lot of
digital modes and switching back and forth between CW, SSB and Data is a
pain because of this.

On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 4:45 PM, Ian White  wrote:

> This is a nice macro, but it's mostly a patch for a long-standing 
> firmware bug - namely that, on returning to a data sub-mode on any 
> particular band, the IF center frequency and bandwidth have often been 
> changed to something quite inappropriate.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPDX2 has arrived!

[Edward Kacura via Elecraft]

I got mine Saturday, love the feel, made a few adjustments and it just sings 
along beautifully.
So much nicer than the KPDX3
Thanks again to the crew at Elecraft, great job !!

73 de Ed 
N7EDK

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 11, 2016, at 16:15, Ken Talbott  wrote:
> 
> Looks and feels good right out of the package.  More to follow after some
> use.  But they are in the mail!
> 
> Ken - ke4rg
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping, we could use your help with useful macros

[Jim McDonald]

I originally missed band stacking registers that I was used to before I got
my K3 in 2009, but I use work-arounds.

Two options:

1) Use the MEM 0-9 set to BAND SEL.  Then use the K3 Frequency Memory Editor
program to load memories for memories 0-9 and each band.  For instance, I
have the numeric keypad set:

1   160M
280M
340M
420M
515M
610M
730M
817M
912M
0 6M

Then, for each band M1 is set to a CW frequency, M2 is set to a RTTY
frequency, M3 is SSB, and M4 is JT65.

I'm used to it so I press M->V 4 to go to (the last frequency on) 20M.  Then
I press M->V M2 if I want to go to the RTTY frequency (with AGC, DATA MD,
bandwidth settings, etc.) on 20M I have programmed into that memory.

2) Much easier is to use a program like DXLab with its Commander rig control
module that includes 100 memories including mode, etc.  Clicking on a
cluster spot will QSY the radio and set the mode properly too.

73, Jim N7US


-Original Message-


This is one of the few things that annoys me about my K3S. I work a lot of
digital modes and switching back and forth between CW, SSB and Data is a
pain because of this.

On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 4:45 PM, Ian White  wrote:

> This is a nice macro, but it's mostly a patch for a long-standing 
> firmware bug - namely that, on returning to a data sub-mode on any 
> particular band, the IF center frequency and bandwidth have often been 
> changed to something quite inappropriate.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KPDX2 has arrived!

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Ken,

Thanks for the early report. Let us know how it works out.

We worked really hard on the KXPD2's feel, as well as its field-adjustment 
capability. Since only one hex wrench is needed to adjust the contacts, we 
simply stored it right on the paddle. (Bruce, N7RR, gets a lot of credit for 
motivating us on this point :)

73,
Wayne
N6KR



On Jul 11, 2016, at 1:15 PM, Ken Talbott  wrote:

> Looks and feels good right out of the package.  More to follow after some
> use.  But they are in the mail!
> 
> Ken - ke4rg
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping, we could use your help with useful macros

[Peter Pauly]

This is one of the few things that annoys me about my K3S. I work a lot of
digital modes and switching back and forth between CW, SSB and Data is a
pain because of this.

On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 4:45 PM, Ian White  wrote:

> This is a nice macro, but it's mostly a patch for a long-standing
> firmware bug - namely that, on returning to a data sub-mode on any
> particular band, the IF center frequency and bandwidth have often been
> changed to something quite inappropriate.
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] quick question about antennas

[Bill Frantz]

When I wired an addition to our house some 40 or so years ago, 
one of my circuits from the service box started in Romex, 
converted to steel conduit, and then back to Romex. Since the 
grounding connections were properly bonded to each other, the 
building inspector in Los Gatos, CA approved it.


The principle reason for the grounding conductor (green wire) is 
to cause the circuit breaker to open if one of the hot wires 
shorts to the case of the electrical equipment. If the case just 
floated, it would be a shock hazard for anyone who touched it 
and also touched something that was grounded.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 7/11/16 at 2:21 PM, j...@audiosystemsgroup.com (Jim Brown) wrote:

It depends on the building code used by local jurisdiction. In 
many jurisdictions, it IS legal to use conduit as the green 
wire IF it is continuous and all the connections are made 
properly. As I recall, it's legal in Chicago, where steel 
conduit is used for almost everything, in large part to keep 
union electricians working.


In other jurisdictions, or if the conduit is not properly 
bonded for the entire length, a dedicated green wire must be run.

--
Bill Frantz| There are now so many exceptions to the
408-356-8506   | Fourth Amendment that it operates only by
www.pwpconsult.com | accident.  -  William Hugh Murray

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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion

[Walter Underwood]

The KXPA100 is rated to produce 100W at 13.8V or more. I’ve heard reports of 
lower power at lower voltages.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Jul 11, 2016, at 1:49 PM, Marc Veeneman via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Actually you can charge and operate at the same time.  Basic charge voltage 
> is 13.2 and finishing voltage is 14.6 volts.  I've never had a problem with 
> any Elecraft (or other) ham gear at either voltage.  
> 
> Float charge would work just fine but I wouldn't make a habit of it.  The 
> control modules wired between cells need 14.6 volts (for 4S configurations) 
> to trigger their cell balancing ability.  Lead acid cells balance 
> automatically when in series.  LiFePO4 cells do not.
> 
> But beware the charger RFI.  The 10 amp chargers from BioennoPower are strong 
> generators and I can't use them in the shack to recharge either the battery 
> in use or any other battery while I'm on 80 meter CW.  
> 
> I'm testing some alternative high amp chargers and have found at least one 
> that is RFI quiet.  I'll be testing a second, less expensive, alternative 
> this week.
> -- 
> Marc
> 
> 
>> On Jul 11, 2016, at 3:58 PM, Wes Stewart  wrote:
>> 
>> Perhaps it would be overkill to consider one of these for my purpose anyway, 
>> but based on this thread my interest was piqued about using one of these in 
>> the shack to cover short power outages.  I've learned that you CANNOT charge 
>> and feed a load at the same time, i.e float charge.
>> 
>>> On 7/11/2016 5:44 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
>>> Thanks again, Jim for linking to this vendor.  Just ordered the 12
>>> Amp/Hr battery they had on promotion with charger to 1) try them out,
>>> and 2) to power the K3s/P3 while RFI, et al hunting with all or most of
>>> the shack service shut down.
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>>> MONTAC Enterprises
>>> (318) 518-1389
>>> 
 On 6/30/2016 11:28 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
 This sale offers good discounts on some fine backpacking products from
 a ham-friendly company.
 
 73, Jim K9YC
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping, we could use your help with useful macros

[Bill Frantz]

I hadn't thought of that use for the macro. I was thinking of 
when I'm tuning the band, probably in CW or SSB mode, and come 
across a signal that looks like it is RTTY. This macro makes it 
easy to set up to decode the RTTY.



The complementary PSK macro does the same for PSK and the other 
DATA A encoding modes.


PSK MD6;DT0;PC035;AG000;IS 1450;BW0230

Go to Data mode and then Data A. Set output to 35 watts. Turn 
audio gain to zero. Set filter center to 1.450 KHz and bandwidth 
to 2.300 KHz


This macro sets up for computer PSK, MFSK etc. modes and opens 
up the filter so the whole waterfall can show signal in the 
computer decoding program.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 7/11/16 at 1:45 PM, gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk (Ian White) wrote:


This is a nice macro, but it's mostly a patch for a long-standing
firmware bug - namely that, on returning to a data sub-mode on any
particular band, the IF center frequency and bandwidth have often been
changed to something quite inappropriate.

This is because the K3 firmware failed to include the center frequency
and bandwidth among the data sub-mode parameters that are memorized
per-band. As a result, those settings are always being overwritten by
the last settings used on some other band - quite possibly for some
other, unrelated data sub-mode.

Many years have passed since Elecraft acknowledged that this was an
oversight... but it never was fixed, so the same problem has propagated
into the K3S, and very probably into the KX3 and KX2 as well.


73 from Ian GM3SEK



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of

Bill

Frantz
Sent: 11 July 2016 18:28
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping, we could use

your

help with useful macros

There was a bug in my RTTY macro. The latest version is:

RTTY: MD6;DT1;IS 2210;BW0040

Goes to Data mode and then AFSK A. Sets the filter center to
normal (2.21 KHz) and the bandwidth to 400 HZ.

Old version was:


RTTY: MD6;DT1;IS 9000;BW0040


73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz| Ham radio contesting is a| Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | contact sport.   | 16345
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |  - Ken Widelitz K6LA / VY2TT | Los Gatos,
CA 95032

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---
Bill Frantz| Since the IBM Selectric, keyboards have gotten
408-356-8506   | steadily worse. Now we have touchscreen keyboards.
www.pwpconsult.com | Can we make something even worse?

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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] 240V connection advice

[Fred Jensen]

Ummm, not exactly following your description but ...  NA electrical 
codes require the two phase conductors [240V between them], after 
passing through the breaker(s), to go directly to the equipment.  The 
center-tap of your distribution transformer secondary [neutral] is 
bonded to earth ground at your service entrance.  The earth ground 
becomes the "green wire" [it may be uninsulated and thus the "copper" 
wire] and should be bonded to the enclosure of the equipment.  It's the 
safety ground and that's all that should power a 240V equipment.  Ugly 
things can happen if the neutral gets involved or used as a ground.


If that's what you're describing, exactly, it's probably good.  How long 
a run from the outlet to the KPA500?  I'd also make sure the outlet is 
wired properly.  If it's an old dryer plug, an electrician with a 
license might be in order.


For 120V, the neutral forms one side of the circuit, however the safety 
ground [green wire] still should be bonded to the equipment enclosure. 
Under no circumstances should you connect the green wire to the neutral 
ANYWHERE but the bond in your service entrance.


73,

Fred K6DGW
Sparks NV
Washoe County DM09dn


On 7/11/2016 1:42 PM, Matt Murphy wrote:

Hello, I am thinking of connecting my KPA500 to a 240V outlet that is close
to the shack that has a NEMA 10-30 receptacle.  I'm soliciting advice on
how to proceed.

As background, I am looking into this because the lights dim a bit when the
amp is keyed down. It's a bit distracting and while I don't think the
circuit is actually overloaded, it's definitely close to the limit.

I was thinking of making a cable by modifying an IEC power cord (with C13
connector) by connecting the two wires to the two hots of a NEMA 10-30
plug, and ignoring the neutral plug AND ignoring the ground wire in the IEC
power cord.

A few questions about this approach:

- Is it the correct way to wire the connectors together?

- Is it dangerous in any way?

- Is there anything that can be done to reduce/mitigate the danger (if any)
other than having an electrician install a currently-up-to-code 240V
circuit in the shack?

- With respect to safety, assuming it is safe for the KPA500 would it be
safe to run other amplifiers that require 240V? How would I determine
this?  It seems that clothes dryers that are connected via a NEMA 10-30
connector typically have the neutral pin connected to the chassis.

Based on my research, the NEMA 10-30 connector was used widely before it
was declared not up to code for new installations in 1996. Since many homes
were built prior to 1996, I would imagine that others on the reflector
might have encountered this sort of issue when dealing with 240V in the
shack.

Advice appreciated.

73,
Matt NQ6N


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Re: [Elecraft] quick question about antennas

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

The alternative on a standard duplex box is where the "blades" are at right 
angles to the normal outlet..  Therefore never allowing a misconnection.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Jim Brown 
 To: Reflector Elecraft  
 Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 2:21 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] quick question about antennas
   
On Mon,7/11/2016 2:07 PM, Matt Murphy wrote:
> I am guessing that installing a grounded 240V receptacle and using the 
> conduit as ground is *not* up to code. 

It depends on the building code used by local jurisdiction. In many 
jurisdictions, it IS legal to use conduit as the green wire IF it is 
continuous and all the connections are made properly. As I recall, it's 
legal in Chicago, where steel conduit is used for almost everything, in 
large part to keep union electricians working.

In other jurisdictions, or if the conduit is not properly bonded for the 
entire length, a dedicated green wire must be run.

> If it were, then perhaps I could install a NEMA 6-30 receptacle (which 
> has a ground pin and two hots). 

I don't know connectors by number, but what I would install is a 
standard outlet with two hots and ground that is slightly larger than an 
ordinary 120V outlet.  Or even two outlets in the same steel backbox, 
like a 120V duplex.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S

[Bob Nielsen]

I also live on an island and we too have several outages a year (which 
can last from seconds to days).  Most are caused by branches blown down 
by wind, hitting and breaking the power lines (it is slowly getting 
better as Puget Sound Energy has proactively been trimming trees before 
they break).  I have four UPS devices in various parts of my house. The 
shack and my home computers and DVRs are connected to 1000VA TrippLite 
UPSs I bought at Costco several years ago and these also protect against 
surges.  I don't try to operate an amp when the power goes out, but have 
run 100 watt radios barefoot for several minutes. The batteries in my 
systems probably need replacing and when I do that I will try to silence 
the darn beep that they make (I can tell when there is an outage without 
hearing that noise). I will also  look into setting up a 12V system like 
you described.


73,
Bob, N7XY

On 7/11/16 2:14 PM, Gerald Finn wrote:

In response to Stengrevics :  To deal with a power line noise problem, someone 
suggested I try an
uninterruptible power supply (UPS).? Does anyone have any experience doing
this?? If so, what UPS specifications are appropriate to handle the K3S?

For my Elecraft K3S/P3 I am using an Astron RS35M power supply which feeds a 
West Mountain DC-to-Go  with attached Radio Power Gate PG40S and RigRunner 
4007U.  My battery is a 79 amp hour AGM.  I live on an island and at stormy 
times of the year, we experience power losses and multiple short hits.   This 
combination has been quite satisfactory.
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[Elecraft] Fwd: From Kevin at Bioenno Power:

[Wes Stewart]

 Forwarded Message 
Subject:From Kevin at Bioenno Power:
Date:   Mon, 11 Jul 2016 10:41:24 -0700
From:   Kevin Zanjani 
To: wes_n...@triconet.org



Hi Wes,
Once the charge is complete, you will want to disconnect the charger from the 
battery itself, and then repeat the cycle later.

-Kevin

Kevin,

I'm still confused.  I realize that the battery needs to be full charged before 
initially connecting the load.  But once the charge is complete can the charger 
remain connected while the battery is supplying load current or must the charger 
be disconnected, only to repeat the cycle later.


Wes

On 7/11/2016 10:17 AM, Bioenno Power wrote:

Hi Wes,
The battery should be charged up first, before first use. Then afterwords, 
after the battery is completely charged, then it is used with the load.

-Kevin
On 7/11/2016 10:02 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:
Can a LifePO4, BLF-1212WS for example, be charged (using your charger) while 
under load?








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[Elecraft] 240V Power Connectors

[Jim Brown]

Assuming you have 20A breakers and #12 or larger copper, you want NEMA 
6-20. See this link.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector

73, Jim

On Mon,7/11/2016 2:43 PM, Matt Murphy wrote:

Jim --

Ahh, I think that would work.  If the conduit works as ground (which I 
think it does here) I could use the kind pictured in the link below, 
and wire up a the power cable using the two hots and ground as you 
recommend:


http://waterheatertimer.org/images/240-Volt-outlet4-253.jpg

73,
Matt NQ6N


On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 4:21 PM, Jim Brown > wrote:


On Mon,7/11/2016 2:07 PM, Matt Murphy wrote:

I am guessing that installing a grounded 240V receptacle and
using the conduit as ground is *not* up to code.


It depends on the building code used by local jurisdiction. In
many jurisdictions, it IS legal to use conduit as the green wire
IF it is continuous and all the connections are made properly. As
I recall, it's legal in Chicago, where steel conduit is used for
almost everything, in large part to keep union electricians working.

In other jurisdictions, or if the conduit is not properly bonded
for the entire length, a dedicated green wire must be run.

If it were, then perhaps I could install a NEMA 6-30
receptacle (which has a ground pin and two hots).


I don't know connectors by number, but what I would install is a
standard outlet with two hots and ground that is slightly larger
than an ordinary 120V outlet.  Or even two outlets in the same
steel backbox, like a 120V duplex.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] PX3-KX3 sideband null procedure

[David Anderson via Elecraft]

Not a dumb question at all Keith.

The adjustment you did just did only affects the PX3 not the KX3. It affects 
what the PX3 displays only, not what your KX3 hears.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 11 Jul 2016, at 21:31, Keith Hamilton  wrote:
> 
> Sorry if this is a dumb question.
> 
> I went through the sideband null procedure from page 31 of my PX3
> manual and everything went just as described.
> 
> My question is, was I making changes to the KX3 receiver or transmitter
> or just changes to the PX3?  In other words, does making the adjustments
> on the PX3 as described in the procedure change anything in the KX3?
> 
> Thanks!  Trying to learn!
> 
> Keith N8CEP
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,7/11/2016 1:49 PM, Marc Veeneman via Elecraft wrote:

But beware the charger RFI.  The 10 amp chargers from BioennoPower are strong 
generators and I can't use them in the shack to recharge either the battery in 
use or any other battery while I'm on 80 meter CW.


Thanks for all of your input, Marc. Be sure to tell BioennoPower that 
the charger they sold you is unacceptable, and return it for credit. 
I've already told them it's a problem that they must solve if they are 
to be successful in the ham marketplace, but they should hear it from 
other customers.


When I asked, they told me that the chargers they sell are noisy, so I 
didn't buy one. They told me that one of their dealers out east had 
recommended using the PowerGate jumpered for AGM batteries with a linear 
supply adjusted to provide the charging current, and that they would 
consider that an in-warranty setup. I'm currently doing that with a 
100Ah battery I just bought, but I'm not thrilled with it.


The difference between 12V and 14.2 volts doesn't matter for ham gear 
except that higher voltage reduces IMD in the K3 output stage at full 
power output.


73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S (power line arc noise)

[John Stengrevics]

Thanks to all for your very helpful comments & suggestions.

John
WA1EAZ

> On Jul 11, 2016, at 5:18 PM, Mike K8CN  wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> Power line arc noise can happen anywhere, even in a semi-rural area like
> your neighborhood (I used to live in Acton MA).  There are many web
> resources for learning how to identify and track down power line arc
> sources.  Here are some things I've learned by hard experience.
> 
> A good, though not infallible, indication of a power line arc source for
> your noise is to check the bands during or shortly after a rain storm.  Most
> arc sources are quenched temporarily by rain if they're exposed to the
> elements. When I first began tracking down noise sources at my QTH several
> years ago, I found that keeping a log of baseline noise levels (using the
> S-meter indication with the K3 in AM mode, widest filter you have) on all
> bands versus time of day and weather conditions was helpful in establishing
> any correlation with precipitation or neighbors' activities.  I would also
> add comments about the qualitative audio signature of the noise ("buzz",
> "raspy", "intermittent buzz" - you get the idea).
> 
> Simple preliminary source location techniques (once you've eliminated
> anything in your own home or yard) include using the AM radio in your car on
> a careful drive around your neighborhood to find candidate sources. This is
> not particularly selective - you'll hear other interferers in addition to
> true arc sources, and you'll want to tune to an unoccupied AM channel - I
> use channels high in the AM broadcast band.
> 
> My preferred method once I've identified some candidate arc source sites is
> to use an inexpensive handheld VHF/UHF scanner with a rubber-duck antenna
> and a switchable attenuator.  You don't need a fancy lab-grade attenuator -
> I find that a home-made 6 dB or 20 dB fixed resistor attenuator (50 ohm,
> shielded box) is sufficient.  I tune the scanner to an open channel in the
> aircraft band (around 135 MHz; it automatically switches to AM detection in
> that band, which is necessary to do direction-finding based on signal
> strength - FM detection won't work), and walk around the suspect site. Turn
> off the squelch completely and set the audio gain at a fixed, comfortable
> listening level (I use open-ear headphones for safety as I walk on roads).
> 
> I hold the rubber-duck antenna in the horizontal orientation and sweep it in
> an arc to either side of my body.  The rubber-duck has a pattern null off
> the ends, and the reduction in audible noise is very evident if you're close
> to the arc source.  You can resolve the 180 degree direction ambiguity of
> the null by using your body as an additional shielding attenuator - the
> difference in audio levels is your clue as to which null direction is the
> true one.  You will find that you'll need to insert one of the fixed
> attenuators between the rubber-duck and the scanner antenna port if you're
> very close to the arc source - otherwise it will be difficult to perceive a
> null.  I've used this technique successfully to locate multiple arc sources
> in my own neighborhood over the past few years. The one drawback is that one
> cannot hear the arc noise at VHF if one is more than a couple hundred yards
> from the arc source unless you use a small handheld Yagi antenna.  It's easy
> to make a 3 element Yagi for VHF - there are several simple, inexpensive
> designs out there to be found.
> 
> As Jim, K9YC will likely point out, you may also be hearing switch-mode
> power converters that have a much different noise signature than arc noise. 
> If you can borrow a P3 panadapter from a nearby friend, it is an excellent
> tool for distinguishing types of noise.  There are many other RF noise
> emitters - look at the archives of the Elecraft forum for some examples -
> the list of offending devices is too long to include here.
> 
> One can, of course, purchase commercial DF'ing units that offer more
> features.  However, you may already have the basic DF'ing tools in hand, or
> you may borrow them from a local ham until you find that you have a
> recurring need for this set of tools.
> 
> It's likely that your local electric utility has a person trained in finding
> arc noise sources, but they love it when you can identify the specific pole
> on which you have found the likely source!
> 
> 73,
> Mike, K8CN
> Durham NH
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Uninterruptible-Power-Supply-for-K3S-tp7619939p7619959.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] quick question about antennas

[Matt Murphy]

Jim --

Ahh, I think that would work.  If the conduit works as ground (which I
think it does here) I could use the kind pictured in the link below, and
wire up a the power cable using the two hots and ground as you recommend:

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/240-Volt-outlet4-253.jpg

73,
Matt NQ6N


On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 4:21 PM, Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On Mon,7/11/2016 2:07 PM, Matt Murphy wrote:
>
>> I am guessing that installing a grounded 240V receptacle and using the
>> conduit as ground is *not* up to code.
>>
>
> It depends on the building code used by local jurisdiction. In many
> jurisdictions, it IS legal to use conduit as the green wire IF it is
> continuous and all the connections are made properly. As I recall, it's
> legal in Chicago, where steel conduit is used for almost everything, in
> large part to keep union electricians working.
>
> In other jurisdictions, or if the conduit is not properly bonded for the
> entire length, a dedicated green wire must be run.
>
> If it were, then perhaps I could install a NEMA 6-30 receptacle (which has
>> a ground pin and two hots).
>>
>
> I don't know connectors by number, but what I would install is a standard
> outlet with two hots and ground that is slightly larger than an ordinary
> 120V outlet.  Or even two outlets in the same steel backbox, like a 120V
> duplex.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Portable Ant

[Bob Nielsen]

Has anyone compared the MFJ-1899T (multiband with tapped coil) to the 
single band antennas?  I realize that none of these will compare with a 
good fixed antenna but are they all equally bad?


Bob, N7XY
KX2 #385

On 7/11/16 12:21 PM, Ray Sills wrote:

The MFJ-18XX series is probably what that was.  XX is replaced by your band of 
choice.  The whips are base loaded, and only work on one band.

73 de Ray
K2ULR
KX3 #211



On Jul 11, 2016, at 3:14 PM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:

For walking one of the MFJ whips seems a reasonable choice. Wayne did some 
posts on that a month or two ago.

Phil W7OX

On 7/11/16 6:37 AM, Robert Reiman wrote:

  What portable or walk about Antenna could I use with my KX2? 72's  Bob 
kb9ivakb9...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion

[Marc Veeneman via Elecraft]

Actually you can charge and operate at the same time.  Basic charge voltage is 
13.2 and finishing voltage is 14.6 volts.  I've never had a problem with any 
Elecraft (or other) ham gear at either voltage.  

Float charge would work just fine but I wouldn't make a habit of it.  The 
control modules wired between cells need 14.6 volts (for 4S configurations) to 
trigger their cell balancing ability.  Lead acid cells balance automatically 
when in series.  LiFePO4 cells do not.

But beware the charger RFI.  The 10 amp chargers from BioennoPower are strong 
generators and I can't use them in the shack to recharge either the battery in 
use or any other battery while I'm on 80 meter CW.  

I'm testing some alternative high amp chargers and have found at least one that 
is RFI quiet.  I'll be testing a second, less expensive, alternative this week.
-- 
Marc


> On Jul 11, 2016, at 3:58 PM, Wes Stewart  wrote:
> 
> Perhaps it would be overkill to consider one of these for my purpose anyway, 
> but based on this thread my interest was piqued about using one of these in 
> the shack to cover short power outages.  I've learned that you CANNOT charge 
> and feed a load at the same time, i.e float charge.
> 
>> On 7/11/2016 5:44 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> Thanks again, Jim for linking to this vendor.  Just ordered the 12
>> Amp/Hr battery they had on promotion with charger to 1) try them out,
>> and 2) to power the K3s/P3 while RFI, et al hunting with all or most of
>> the shack service shut down.
>> 
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>> 
>>> On 6/30/2016 11:28 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>>> This sale offers good discounts on some fine backpacking products from
>>> a ham-friendly company.
>>> 
>>> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion

[Matt Zilmer]

I'd like to know the source of this as well.  My shack power is 100W of 
Siemens PV on the roof, a 10A charge controller diode-ORed with a Samlex 
1235 set to 13.62V.  The output charges a 75AH Optima battery, which 
powers the equipment 24/7.  I've never had any trouble with it in the 
four years I've used it.


73,

matt W6NIA


On 7/11/2016 1:46 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Mon,7/11/2016 12:58 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
Perhaps it would be overkill to consider one of these for my purpose 
anyway, but based on this thread my interest was piqued about using 
one of these in the shack to cover short power outages.  I've learned 
that you CANNOT charge and feed a load at the same time, i.e float 
charge.


Hi Wes,

Where did you learn this?  References I can study? I looked and didn't 
find anything saying that, and that's what I plan to do with the 100Ah 
battery I just bought.


73, Jim K9YC

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--
Always store beer in a dark place.  - R. Heinlein

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
[Shiraz]

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 mini-banana plug improvement

[David Christ]

It says balun connector.  Does that mean it is like the old F to twin lead 
connectors that had a balun internally.  If so I don’t think it would do what 
you want it to.

David K0LUM

> On Jul 11, 2016, at 3:08 AM, Szabó István  wrote:
> 
> Could these BNC adapters be used for it? No additional weight, no more space 
> required.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/381429029110
> 
> 
> 73, István, HA4ZD
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] quick question about antennas

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,7/11/2016 2:07 PM, Matt Murphy wrote:
I am guessing that installing a grounded 240V receptacle and using the 
conduit as ground is *not* up to code. 


It depends on the building code used by local jurisdiction. In many 
jurisdictions, it IS legal to use conduit as the green wire IF it is 
continuous and all the connections are made properly. As I recall, it's 
legal in Chicago, where steel conduit is used for almost everything, in 
large part to keep union electricians working.


In other jurisdictions, or if the conduit is not properly bonded for the 
entire length, a dedicated green wire must be run.


If it were, then perhaps I could install a NEMA 6-30 receptacle (which 
has a ground pin and two hots). 


I don't know connectors by number, but what I would install is a 
standard outlet with two hots and ground that is slightly larger than an 
ordinary 120V outlet.  Or even two outlets in the same steel backbox, 
like a 120V duplex.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S (power line arc noise)

[Mike K8CN]

John,

Power line arc noise can happen anywhere, even in a semi-rural area like
your neighborhood (I used to live in Acton MA).  There are many web
resources for learning how to identify and track down power line arc
sources.  Here are some things I've learned by hard experience.

A good, though not infallible, indication of a power line arc source for
your noise is to check the bands during or shortly after a rain storm.  Most
arc sources are quenched temporarily by rain if they're exposed to the
elements. When I first began tracking down noise sources at my QTH several
years ago, I found that keeping a log of baseline noise levels (using the
S-meter indication with the K3 in AM mode, widest filter you have) on all
bands versus time of day and weather conditions was helpful in establishing
any correlation with precipitation or neighbors' activities.  I would also
add comments about the qualitative audio signature of the noise ("buzz",
"raspy", "intermittent buzz" - you get the idea).

Simple preliminary source location techniques (once you've eliminated
anything in your own home or yard) include using the AM radio in your car on
a careful drive around your neighborhood to find candidate sources. This is
not particularly selective - you'll hear other interferers in addition to
true arc sources, and you'll want to tune to an unoccupied AM channel - I
use channels high in the AM broadcast band.

My preferred method once I've identified some candidate arc source sites is
to use an inexpensive handheld VHF/UHF scanner with a rubber-duck antenna
and a switchable attenuator.  You don't need a fancy lab-grade attenuator -
I find that a home-made 6 dB or 20 dB fixed resistor attenuator (50 ohm,
shielded box) is sufficient.  I tune the scanner to an open channel in the
aircraft band (around 135 MHz; it automatically switches to AM detection in
that band, which is necessary to do direction-finding based on signal
strength - FM detection won't work), and walk around the suspect site. Turn
off the squelch completely and set the audio gain at a fixed, comfortable
listening level (I use open-ear headphones for safety as I walk on roads).

I hold the rubber-duck antenna in the horizontal orientation and sweep it in
an arc to either side of my body.  The rubber-duck has a pattern null off
the ends, and the reduction in audible noise is very evident if you're close
to the arc source.  You can resolve the 180 degree direction ambiguity of
the null by using your body as an additional shielding attenuator - the
difference in audio levels is your clue as to which null direction is the
true one.  You will find that you'll need to insert one of the fixed
attenuators between the rubber-duck and the scanner antenna port if you're
very close to the arc source - otherwise it will be difficult to perceive a
null.  I've used this technique successfully to locate multiple arc sources
in my own neighborhood over the past few years. The one drawback is that one
cannot hear the arc noise at VHF if one is more than a couple hundred yards
from the arc source unless you use a small handheld Yagi antenna.  It's easy
to make a 3 element Yagi for VHF - there are several simple, inexpensive
designs out there to be found.

As Jim, K9YC will likely point out, you may also be hearing switch-mode
power converters that have a much different noise signature than arc noise. 
If you can borrow a P3 panadapter from a nearby friend, it is an excellent
tool for distinguishing types of noise.  There are many other RF noise
emitters - look at the archives of the Elecraft forum for some examples -
the list of offending devices is too long to include here.

One can, of course, purchase commercial DF'ing units that offer more
features.  However, you may already have the basic DF'ing tools in hand, or
you may borrow them from a local ham until you find that you have a
recurring need for this set of tools.

It's likely that your local electric utility has a person trained in finding
arc noise sources, but they love it when you can identify the specific pole
on which you have found the likely source!

73,
Mike, K8CN
Durham NH







--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Uninterruptible-Power-Supply-for-K3S-tp7619939p7619959.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [PX3] Mini Wireless Keyboard

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I doubt if anything in  PE1BSB's shack is more than 10 feet from anything
else, but take a look and you'll see what he means by getting stuck in
wires! 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 7:47 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [PX3] Mini Wireless Keyboard

I personally don't have a problem with USB wired keyboards. Since the
keyboard will be located close to the P3/PX3, the cord is not a problem for
me.  It goes straight back from the keyboard and is routed to the back of
the P3, so it is not in the way of anything on the desk.

I do use a wireless keyboard and mouse on my media computer, but that is
because the computer is located more than 10 feet away from where I want to
operate the keyboard and mouse.

The list of wired USB keyboards that work is greater than the list of
wireless.

73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S

[Gerald Finn]

In response to Stengrevics :  To deal with a power line noise problem, someone 
suggested I try an
uninterruptible power supply (UPS).? Does anyone have any experience doing
this?? If so, what UPS specifications are appropriate to handle the K3S?

For my Elecraft K3S/P3 I am using an Astron RS35M power supply which feeds a 
West Mountain DC-to-Go  with attached Radio Power Gate PG40S and RigRunner 
4007U.  My battery is a 79 amp hour AGM.  I live on an island and at stormy 
times of the year, we experience power losses and multiple short hits.   This 
combination has been quite satisfactory.
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] 240V connection advice

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,7/11/2016 1:42 PM, Matt Murphy wrote:

I was thinking of making a cable by modifying an IEC power cord (with C13
connector) by connecting the two wires to the two hots of a NEMA 10-30
plug, and ignoring the neutral plug AND ignoring the ground wire in the IEC
power cord.


Hi Matt,

Good engineering practice as well as all building codes in NA require 
that two hots be used to power 240V equipment, and that a green wire be 
run with the two hot conductors and bonded to the equipment enclosure. 
It is both illegal and very bad practice to use neutral as a ground, or 
to bond neutral to ground anywhere but the main entry panel.


I suspect that outlet you have is for an old laundry appliance. If you 
can get at the wiring to re-run it, you should pull in a new run to 
replace the old one. You should NOT use that outlet without that green 
wire run from the panel with the "hot" (phase) conductors.


What WOULD be safe is to rewire the existing wiring on both ends so that 
the wire currently connected to neutral in the panel is moved to the 
ground bus in the panel, the existing outlet replaced with a 240V 
outlet, and that former neutral, now used as the green wire, is 
connected to the round "ground" pin in the new outlet. And to satisfy 
code, put a piece of green electrical tape on that green wire on both 
ends to identify it.


If the circuit is protected by a pair of 20A breakers and the conductor 
size is #12 or larger, I suggest that you use a 20A outlet, which allows 
you to connect both 15A and 20A plugs.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S

[Barry LaZar]

John,
You can use an UPS for a protracted period. My whole shack is 
buffered on the one cheap UPS I bought at Staples. I suspect that the 
size of the battery will only allow for about 10-15 minutes of operating 
after I lose power. But, it's on continuously.


From your description of your situation I would guess there are 
just a few possibilities, arcing from a power line that is within radio 
line of sight to your antenna, someone may have an electric fence to 
control animals, a compressor/air handler controler. or one of your 
neighbors is doing some arc welding. You can eliminate atmospheric noise 
if it is steady and doesn't vary like  lightning crashes; this time of 
the year there is a lot of atmospheric noise, but it bounces around in 
amplitude.


If you have a 2 meter rig that can tune down in the aircraft 
frequencies, tune it to a dead spot between 113-136 MHz. You will be in 
AM mode. Turn off the squelch and ride around and see if you can find 
the source of some noise. It could be a few miles away from your antenna 
depending on how high your antenna is.


73,
Barry
K3NDM



-- Original Message --
From: "John Stengrevics" 
To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 7/11/2016 3:38:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S


Thanks to all for the comments.

Not being familiar with these things, I thought the UPS could be use 
for a protracted period of time.


Jim - I’ve been through the exercise of turning off every breaker in 
the house except the one that supplies power to the shack.  I then 
unplugged everything in the shack except the K3S and rotor control box 
and turned off the lights.  I still had the noise.


Bonding didn’t do anything - I only have the K3S, speaker and a rotor 
control box.


I’ve got ferrites out the gazoo!

I live in an area with 2-acre zoning and no commercial establishment 
wishing a couple of miles.


So, I’m at a loss.  Maybe atmospheric noise?

John
WA1EAZ


 On Jul 11, 2016, at 3:05 PM, Jim Brown  
wrote:


 On Mon,7/11/2016 11:36 AM, stengrevics wrote:

 To deal with a power line noise problem, someone suggested I try an
 uninterruptible power supply (UPS).



 Bad idea, for several reasons. First, power line noise is created by 
a defective component in the power system arcing, and radiated by 
power wiring close to the where the arc occurs. This radiated noise is 
like any other RF signal -- it propagates, and our antennas receive 
it. It is VERY unlikely to be conducted into our equipment via our own 
power wiring.


 Second, UPS units are often noise sources themselves.

 Third, how do you know that what you hear is power line noise? Much 
of the noise we hear in our radios is created by electronic equipment 
of all sorts.


 Study http://k9yc.com/KillingReceiveNoise.pdf

 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 wireles keyboard

[Cady, Fred]

Here is the list of keyboards for the PX3.

www.elecraft.com/manual/px3_keyboard_list_A3.pdf


I'm using a Logictech K360 that works on both the PX3 and P3 with SVGA.
cheers,
Fred KE7X

For all KE7X Elecraft books, see www.ke7x.com.


From: Elecraft  on behalf of William 
Lagerberg 
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 5:12 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 wireles keyboard

Hi Group,

I think there has been told a lot about wireless keyboard an Kpod etc etc.

But Is it possible to get a wireless keyboard connected to the P3 somewhere i 
read that a 2.4 Ghz remote keyboard would work ???

Is there somebody who has experience, I have many apple keyboard but every 
where i read, they don't work, i did not even try :-)

is the a list of keyboards ??

I am getting stuck in the wire every time ( just google my call) you understand 
:-)

Regards William PE1BSB
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,7/11/2016 12:58 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
Perhaps it would be overkill to consider one of these for my purpose 
anyway, but based on this thread my interest was piqued about using 
one of these in the shack to cover short power outages.  I've learned 
that you CANNOT charge and feed a load at the same time, i.e float charge.


Hi Wes,

Where did you learn this?  References I can study? I looked and didn't 
find anything saying that, and that's what I plan to do with the 100Ah 
battery I just bought.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 wireles keyboard

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I have an Anker 2.4G (Model A7723 - but I think it's been discontinued now) 
that works FB with the P3 (and PX3). 

That is a real "shack" William! It's clear a real Ham lives there, Hi! 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of William 
Lagerberg
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 4:13 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 wireles keyboard

Hi Group,

I think there has been told a lot about wireless keyboard an Kpod etc etc.

But Is it possible to get a wireless keyboard connected to the P3 somewhere i 
read that a 2.4 Ghz remote keyboard would work ???

Is there somebody who has experience, I have many apple keyboard but every 
where i read, they don’t work, i did not even try :-)

is the a list of keyboards ??

I am getting stuck in the wire every time ( just google my call) you understand 
:-)

Regards William PE1BSB
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Re: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping, we could use your help with useful macros

[Ian White]

This is a nice macro, but it's mostly a patch for a long-standing
firmware bug - namely that, on returning to a data sub-mode on any
particular band, the IF center frequency and bandwidth have often been
changed to something quite inappropriate.

This is because the K3 firmware failed to include the center frequency
and bandwidth among the data sub-mode parameters that are memorized
per-band. As a result, those settings are always being overwritten by
the last settings used on some other band - quite possibly for some
other, unrelated data sub-mode.

Many years have passed since Elecraft acknowledged that this was an
oversight... but it never was fixed, so the same problem has propagated
into the K3S, and very probably into the KX3 and KX2 as well.

 
73 from Ian GM3SEK


>-Original Message-
>From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Bill
>Frantz
>Sent: 11 July 2016 18:28
>To: Elecraft Reflector
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping, we could use
your
>help with useful macros
>
>There was a bug in my RTTY macro. The latest version is:
>
>RTTY: MD6;DT1;IS 2210;BW0040
>
>Goes to Data mode and then AFSK A. Sets the filter center to
>normal (2.21 KHz) and the bandwidth to 400 HZ.
>
>Old version was:
>
>>RTTY: MD6;DT1;IS 9000;BW0040
>
>73 Bill AE6JV
>
>---
>Bill Frantz| Ham radio contesting is a| Periwinkle
>(408)356-8506  | contact sport.   | 16345
>Englewood Ave
>www.pwpconsult.com |  - Ken Widelitz K6LA / VY2TT | Los Gatos,
>CA 95032
>
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>Message delivered to gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk

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[Elecraft] [KPA500] 240V connection advice

[Matt Murphy]

Hello, I am thinking of connecting my KPA500 to a 240V outlet that is close
to the shack that has a NEMA 10-30 receptacle.  I'm soliciting advice on
how to proceed.

As background, I am looking into this because the lights dim a bit when the
amp is keyed down. It's a bit distracting and while I don't think the
circuit is actually overloaded, it's definitely close to the limit.

I was thinking of making a cable by modifying an IEC power cord (with C13
connector) by connecting the two wires to the two hots of a NEMA 10-30
plug, and ignoring the neutral plug AND ignoring the ground wire in the IEC
power cord.

A few questions about this approach:

- Is it the correct way to wire the connectors together?

- Is it dangerous in any way?

- Is there anything that can be done to reduce/mitigate the danger (if any)
other than having an electrician install a currently-up-to-code 240V
circuit in the shack?

- With respect to safety, assuming it is safe for the KPA500 would it be
safe to run other amplifiers that require 240V? How would I determine
this?  It seems that clothes dryers that are connected via a NEMA 10-30
connector typically have the neutral pin connected to the chassis.

Based on my research, the NEMA 10-30 connector was used widely before it
was declared not up to code for new installations in 1996. Since many homes
were built prior to 1996, I would imagine that others on the reflector
might have encountered this sort of issue when dealing with 240V in the
shack.

Advice appreciated.

73,
Matt NQ6N
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Re: [Elecraft] [PX3] Mini Wireless Keyboard

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

It looks identical to the Anker A7723 keyboard that I've had for a couple of 
years. Works great. One thing I like that seems the same as the one you 
referenced is that the main keys are the standard size and spacing. They made 
is smaller by eliminating the number keypad and compressing the page up/down, 
etc., keys into four keys in the lower right. 

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joel Black
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 3:39 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] [PX3] Mini Wireless Keyboard

Wondering if anyone has tried this mini wireless keyboard with their PX3:

https://www.adafruit.com/products/1737?gclid=Cj0KEQjwh428BRCnvcyI-5nqjY4BEiQAijebws3eF9yt7A1so9Xw44_K2fCnlGD2uOQ6gPBS8FtpPMoaAgfi8P8HAQ
 


Yes, I know there is a list on Elecraft’s website, but it is not all inclusive 
and does not seem to include many “mini” wireless keyboards.

Thanks,
Joel - W4JBB
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[Elecraft] PX3-KX3 sideband null procedure

[Keith Hamilton]

Sorry if this is a dumb question.

I went through the sideband null procedure from page 31 of my PX3
manual and everything went just as described.

My question is, was I making changes to the KX3 receiver or transmitter
or just changes to the PX3?  In other words, does making the adjustments
on the PX3 as described in the procedure change anything in the KX3?

Thanks!  Trying to learn!

Keith N8CEP
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[Elecraft] KPDX2 has arrived!

[Ken Talbott]

Looks and feels good right out of the package.  More to follow after some
use.  But they are in the mail!

Ken - ke4rg

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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion

[Wes Stewart]

Perhaps it would be overkill to consider one of these for my purpose anyway, but 
based on this thread my interest was piqued about using one of these in the 
shack to cover short power outages.  I've learned that you CANNOT charge and 
feed a load at the same time, i.e float charge.


On 7/11/2016 5:44 AM, Clay Autery wrote:

Thanks again, Jim for linking to this vendor.  Just ordered the 12
Amp/Hr battery they had on promotion with charger to 1) try them out,
and 2) to power the K3s/P3 while RFI, et al hunting with all or most of
the shack service shut down.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 6/30/2016 11:28 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

This sale offers good discounts on some fine backpacking products from
a ham-friendly company.

73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S

[John Stengrevics]

Thanks to all for the comments.

Not being familiar with these things, I thought the UPS could be use for a 
protracted period of time.

Jim - I’ve been through the exercise of turning off every breaker in the house 
except the one that supplies power to the shack.  I then unplugged everything 
in the shack except the K3S and rotor control box and turned off the lights.  I 
still had the noise.

Bonding didn’t do anything - I only have the K3S, speaker and a rotor control 
box. 

I’ve got ferrites out the gazoo!

I live in an area with 2-acre zoning and no commercial establishment wishing a 
couple of miles.

So, I’m at a loss.  Maybe atmospheric noise?

John
WA1EAZ


> On Jul 11, 2016, at 3:05 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On Mon,7/11/2016 11:36 AM, stengrevics wrote:
>> To deal with a power line noise problem, someone suggested I try an
>> uninterruptible power supply (UPS).
> 
> 
> Bad idea, for several reasons. First, power line noise is created by a 
> defective component in the power system arcing, and radiated by power wiring 
> close to the where the arc occurs. This radiated noise is like any other RF 
> signal -- it propagates, and our antennas receive it. It is VERY unlikely to 
> be conducted into our equipment via our own power wiring.
> 
> Second, UPS units are often noise sources themselves.
> 
> Third, how do you know that what you hear is power line noise? Much of the 
> noise we hear in our radios is created by electronic equipment of all sorts.
> 
> Study http://k9yc.com/KillingReceiveNoise.pdf
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Portable Ant

[Ed Muns]

You'll also want a counterpoise wire connected to a mini-banana plug
inserted into the corner hole on the KX2.  It can drag on the ground as you
want and if it gets snagged or stepped on, it simply disconnects easily from
the KX2.

Ed W0YK
___

Ray K2ULR wrote:

The MFJ-18XX series is probably what that was.  XX is replaced by your band
of choice.  The whips are base loaded, and only work on one band.


> On Jul 11, 2016, at 3:14 PM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:
> 
> For walking one of the MFJ whips seems a reasonable choice. Wayne did some
posts on that a month or two ago.

> On 7/11/16 6:37 AM, Robert Reiman wrote:
>>  What portable or walk about Antenna could I use with my KX2? 72's  Bob
kb9ivakb9...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S

[Barry LaZar]

John,
You can use any UPS that will protect your computer. I got mine at  
Stables. It was the least expensive that they had on sale. They're all 
pretty much the same, a battery, battery charger and a 12 volt to 117 AC 
inverter. Some do have computer interfaces for protecting servers, but 
you really don't need that feature. The size of the battery determines 
how long you can stay up without power. You only need enough power for a 
few minutes as you are using the battery as a buffer for noise and 
voltage spikes from lightning strikes and motors turning on and off.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "stengrevics" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 7/11/2016 2:36:33 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S


To deal with a power line noise problem, someone suggested I try an
uninterruptible power supply (UPS).  Does anyone have any experience 
doing
this?  If so, what UPS specifications are appropriate to handle the 
K3S?


My apologies if this has been previously discussed.  Please do provide 
a

link if it has.

73,

John
WA1EAZ



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Portable Ant

[Ray Sills]

The MFJ-18XX series is probably what that was.  XX is replaced by your band of 
choice.  The whips are base loaded, and only work on one band.

73 de Ray
K2ULR
KX3 #211


> On Jul 11, 2016, at 3:14 PM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:
> 
> For walking one of the MFJ whips seems a reasonable choice. Wayne did some 
> posts on that a month or two ago.
> 
> Phil W7OX
> 
> On 7/11/16 6:37 AM, Robert Reiman wrote:
>>  What portable or walk about Antenna could I use with my KX2? 72's  Bob 
>> kb9ivakb9...@sbcglobal.net
> 
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[Elecraft] SSB Net Sunday July 10th

[Jon Moody]

Jim,

You wish   You do an excellent job and will never get fired :)  Like
you said the band conditions were atrocious with fading and very noisy.

-- 
73
Jon
KG6VDW
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Portable Ant

[Phil Wheeler]

For walking one of the MFJ whips seems a 
reasonable choice. Wayne did some posts on that a 
month or two ago.


Phil W7OX

On 7/11/16 6:37 AM, Robert Reiman wrote:

  What portable or walk about Antenna could I use with my KX2? 72's  Bob 
kb9ivakb9...@sbcglobal.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,7/11/2016 11:36 AM, stengrevics wrote:

To deal with a power line noise problem, someone suggested I try an
uninterruptible power supply (UPS).



Bad idea, for several reasons. First, power line noise is created by a 
defective component in the power system arcing, and radiated by power 
wiring close to the where the arc occurs. This radiated noise is like 
any other RF signal -- it propagates, and our antennas receive it. It is 
VERY unlikely to be conducted into our equipment via our own power wiring.


Second, UPS units are often noise sources themselves.

Third, how do you know that what you hear is power line noise? Much of 
the noise we hear in our radios is created by electronic equipment of 
all sorts.


Study http://k9yc.com/KillingReceiveNoise.pdf

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S

[Bayard Coolidge, N1HO via Elecraft]

The "UPS" for my K3 consists of an Astron RS35 linear powersupply driving a 
West Mountain Radio Super PWRgate PG40Sto a 105Ah AGM SLA battery. Power to the 
K3 comes from aWMR RigRunner 4012 that's plugged into the PG40S. Very quiet,and 
can be deployed fairly quickly.
73 de N1HO

  Stengrevics wrote:
   
To deal with a power line noise problem, someone suggested I try an
uninterruptible power supply (UPS).  Does anyone have any experience doing
this?  If so, what UPS specifications are appropriate to handle the K3S?

  
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[Elecraft] KX2 Portable Ant

[Robert Reiman]

 What portable or walk about Antenna could I use with my KX2? 72's  Bob 
kb9ivakb9...@sbcglobal.net
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[Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S

[stengrevics]

To deal with a power line noise problem, someone suggested I try an
uninterruptible power supply (UPS).  Does anyone have any experience doing
this?  If so, what UPS specifications are appropriate to handle the K3S?

My apologies if this has been previously discussed.  Please do provide a
link if it has.

73,

John
WA1EAZ



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Re: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping, we could use your help with useful macros

[Bill Frantz]

There was a bug in my RTTY macro. The latest version is:

RTTY: MD6;DT1;IS 2210;BW0040

Goes to Data mode and then AFSK A. Sets the filter center to 
normal (2.21 KHz) and the bandwidth to 400 HZ.


Old version was:


RTTY: MD6;DT1;IS 9000;BW0040


73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz| Ham radio contesting is a| Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | contact sport.   | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |  - Ken Widelitz K6LA / VY2TT | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 wireles keyboard

[Bill Frantz]

All the Apple keyboards I have seen have built in USB hubs. (And 
I have a lot of them kicking around the house.) Since the P3 
does not support hubs, they won't work.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 7/11/16 at 7:15 AM, kf5...@wickedbeernut.com (Joe Stone 
(KF5WBO)) wrote:



I wouldn't be surprised that an Apple
keyboard does not work.


--
Bill Frantz| There are now so many exceptions to the
408-356-8506   | Fourth Amendment that it operates only by
www.pwpconsult.com | accident.  -  William Hugh Murray

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 mini-banana plug improvement

[Walter Underwood]

Those are for TV, so they are probably 75 Ohm. Those can be used with 50 Ohm 
connectors if both are made to the BNC spec. With each one costing under a 
dollar, I’m not sure about the quality.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Jul 11, 2016, at 4:08 AM, Szabó István  wrote:
> 
> Could these BNC adapters be used for it? No additional weight, no more space 
> required.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/381429029110
> 
> 
> 73, István, HA4ZD
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 wireles keyboard

[Bill]

I use a Logitech,  Works fine.

Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of William 
Lagerberg
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 6:13 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 wireles keyboard

Hi Group,

I think there has been told a lot about wireless keyboard an Kpod etc etc.

But Is it possible to get a wireless keyboard connected to the P3 somewhere i 
read that a 2.4 Ghz remote keyboard would work ???

Is there somebody who has experience, I have many apple keyboard but every 
where i read, they don’t work, i did not even try :-)

is the a list of keyboards ??

I am getting stuck in the wire every time ( just google my call) you understand 
:-)

Regards William PE1BSB
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Re: [Elecraft] [PX3] Mini Wireless Keyboard

[Don Wilhelm]

I personally don't have a problem with USB wired keyboards. Since the 
keyboard will be located close to the P3/PX3, the cord is not a problem 
for me.  It goes straight back from the keyboard and is routed to the 
back of the P3, so it is not in the way of anything on the desk.


I do use a wireless keyboard and mouse on my media computer, but that is 
because the computer is located more than 10 feet away from where I want 
to operate the keyboard and mouse.


The list of wired USB keyboards that work is greater than the list of 
wireless.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/11/2016 10:37 AM, Joe Stone (KF5WBO) wrote:

I haven't used the Adafruit keyboard, however, I will offer a word of
caution ... it wouldn't appear this keyboard has an "Insert" key.  An Insert
key is currently required in order to leverage the new PX3 "scratchpad"
feature (which is excellent).  The scratchpad feature can be used to
substitute his:callsign in transmitting stored text messages.




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Re: [Elecraft] [PX3] Mini Wireless Keyboard

[Joe Stone (KF5WBO)]

I haven't used the Adafruit keyboard, however, I will offer a word of
caution ... it wouldn't appear this keyboard has an "Insert" key.  An Insert
key is currently required in order to leverage the new PX3 "scratchpad"
feature (which is excellent).  The scratchpad feature can be used to
substitute his:callsign in transmitting stored text messages.

Paul has promised to fix this issue by offering an alternative to the Insert
key (e.g., Alt-i, Ctrl-i, ...).

I'm very fond of the Anker wireless keyboards, however, Anker no longer
offers compact 2.4 GHz wireless keyboards.  They only offer bluetooth
compact keyboards.  2.4 GHz wireless is clearly falling out of favor.

73's

Joe Stone
KF5WBO



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Re: [Elecraft] P3 wireles keyboard

[Joe Stone (KF5WBO)]

Here's the list of keyboards supported in conjunction with the PX3 and
P3SVGA,

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/px3_keyboard_list_A3.pdf

For some reason, the file name and title suggests this list is specific to
the PX3, but the list itself states,

  "Keyboards listed were available when this list was created and have been
tested with the PX3/P3SVGA"

This is a (very) small sample of the supported keyboards.  The key is "2.4
GHz wireless" and NOT "bluetooth".  I wouldn't be surprised that an Apple
keyboard does not work.

73's

Joe Stone
KF5WBO



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[Elecraft] KX2 options weights

[Dave KW4M]

The weight of a KX2 with no battery or installed options is specified to be
13 ounces.

What are the individual weights of its various options?

I'm trying to estimate the potential weight savings compared to a KX3 with
options installed.

"Worry about the ounces and the pounds will take care of themselves."

73,
Dave




-
Dave
My Web Site 
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Re: [Elecraft] K-Pod VFO counts per turn?

[Dick Dievendorff]

> On Jul 10, 2016, at 22:19, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> The K3 and K3S both use all 400 counts of the VFO A and B encoders (100 
> pulses/track/revolution). 
> 
> The K-Pod defaults to 200 counts. During our testing we found that this 
> provided the best compromise between precision and "fussiness" for typical 
> K-Pod operations.
> 
> We plan to add a function to K-Pod Utility (which itself isn't quite ready 
> yet) that will allow the user to change this to 100/200/400.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
>> On Jul 10, 2016, at 5:28 PM, "Joe Stone (KF5WBO)"  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks, Bill.  That's exactly what Rick is seeing.  The K-Pod is essentially
>> functioning as a 50-PPR quadrature encoder, rather than a 100-PPR quadrature
>> encoder.  Let's see what Elecraft has to say.  
>> 
>> 73's
>> 
>> Joe Stone
>> KF5WBO
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> View this message in context: 
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K-Pod-VFO-counts-per-turn-tp7619856p7619907.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion

[Clay Autery]

Thanks again, Jim for linking to this vendor.  Just ordered the 12
Amp/Hr battery they had on promotion with charger to 1) try them out,
and 2) to power the K3s/P3 while RFI, et al hunting with all or most of
the shack service shut down.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 6/30/2016 11:28 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> This sale offers good discounts on some fine backpacking products from
> a ham-friendly company.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K-Pod VFO counts per turn?

[Rick]

Thanks Wayne. So I understand what I'm seeing is correct, at least for 
now. I'll watch for the new K3 utility.


73, Rick K0XB

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[Elecraft] P3 wireles keyboard

[William Lagerberg]

Hi Group,

I think there has been told a lot about wireless keyboard an Kpod etc etc.

But Is it possible to get a wireless keyboard connected to the P3 somewhere i 
read that a 2.4 Ghz remote keyboard would work ???

Is there somebody who has experience, I have many apple keyboard but every 
where i read, they don’t work, i did not even try :-)

is the a list of keyboards ??

I am getting stuck in the wire every time ( just google my call) you understand 
:-)

Regards William PE1BSB
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 mini-banana plug improvement

[Szabó István]

Could these BNC adapters be used for it? No additional weight, no more 
space required.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/381429029110


73, István, HA4ZD



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Re: [Elecraft] SSB Net Sunday July 10th

[Ian - Ham]

Tom,

The net is at 1800 UTC every Sunday, on 14.3035. If you can't hear the net
control station due to propagation, listen for one of the many relay
stations that help out.

73 de,

--Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
10-10 #74624, North Georgia Chapter #2038
PODXS 070 #1962
K3# 281, P3 #688, KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468


-Original Message-


Hi Jim,
Question regarding the SSB net on Sundays.  What is the starting time for
the net?  I'm a new user of Elecraft K2 #7491 (100W version).

Thanks, Tom Taylor  KE7TT

-- 

Ever notice the first thing you see at an airport is a big sign that says
"TERMINAL"? Have a nice flight.
  -  Lewis Grizzard

^^  --...  ...--  / -.-  .  --...  - -


Tom Taylor  KE7TT
openSUSE 13.1 (64-bit), Kernel 3.11.6-4-default, KDE 4.11.2, AMD A8-7600,
GeForce GTX 960 16GB RAM -- 3x1.5TB sata2 -- 128GB-SSD FF 40.1, claws-mail
3.10.1 registered linux user 263467
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---
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[Elecraft] [PX3] Mini Wireless Keyboard

[Joel Black]

Wondering if anyone has tried this mini wireless keyboard with their PX3:

https://www.adafruit.com/products/1737?gclid=Cj0KEQjwh428BRCnvcyI-5nqjY4BEiQAijebws3eF9yt7A1so9Xw44_K2fCnlGD2uOQ6gPBS8FtpPMoaAgfi8P8HAQ
 


Yes, I know there is a list on Elecraft’s website, but it is not all inclusive 
and does not seem to include many “mini” wireless keyboards.

Thanks,
Joel - W4JBB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: can someone test this please?

[David Anderson via Elecraft]

Thanks Dale and the otters who have kindly tested this for me.

As a KX3 owner I was trying to determine if there was any good reason why the 
VOX delay couldn't work with the TX Noise Gate. So it does appear this is a KX3 
BUG. 

Over to you Elecraft.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 10 Jul 2016, at 23:58, Dale Boresz  wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> I can confirm that on the K3, the VOX Delay DOES work, regardless of
> whether the TX Gate is engaged or not.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Dale, WA8SRA
> 
>> Anybody?
>> 
>> 73
>> 
>> David Anderson GM4JJJ
>> 
>> 
>>> On 9 Jul 2016, at 19:07, David Anderson via Elecraft
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I have a KX3 and have found a bug (or feature) whereby the VOX delay
>>> does not function when the TX Noise Gate is in use.  Yes, I have
>>> reported it directly to Elecraft.
>>> 
>>> I would like to know if the K3 VOX delay works with the TX Noise Gate
>>> on?
>> 
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> 
> 

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