Re: [Elecraft] OT: 40' mast on Ebay dirt cheap.

2007-10-12 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Jim
I have both the plastic and the aluminum military
surplus masts I use for FD.  I find that hose clamps
and simple D rings make quick and easy guy line
attachment points.  Easy to assemble or disassemble
right on the spot.
73m, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message -
From: Jim Sheldon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Mailing List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 12:24 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] OT: 40' mast on Ebay dirt cheap.


 Just in case you guys wonder where this stuff came from, it was used to
 hold up military camouflage netting.  Those paddle base plates really
aren't
 base plates, they were used at the top of the mast sections to keep it
from
 tearing through the netting.

 This stuff takes a little getting used to and you might have to
manufacture
 some rings to connect guy ropes to, but it works really nice for portable
 antenna masting.  The only drawback is that it IS heavy.

 I've seen it sell for $20.00 per 80 feet with carrying bag at Oklahoma
and
 Kansas hamfests.  Availability is starting to dry up a bit, so $25 for 40
 feet could be a decent price these days.  I got mine 4 years ago @ 80
 feet/20 bucks.

 A friend of mine with a machine shop in his garage manufactured a bunch of
 aluminum guy rings, and some top pieces that hold pulleys and all sorts of
 other stuff -- works great.  Get it and use your imagination.  Fantastic
 field day antenna supports where trees aren't available.

 Jim - W0EB

  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thom LaCosta
  Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 1:42 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Cc: Elecraft Reflector; QRP-L
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 40' mast on Ebay dirt cheap.
 
  On Fri, 12 Oct 2007, Stephen Przepiora wrote:
 
   Just to let you all know, there is a guy selling 40' fiberglass
   military mast with carrying case with a buy it now price of
  $25.00. He
   also has a Military Nylon Rope Tie Down Kit that has two 50' ropes
   (so what) and six velcro straps with rings you can use as guying
   connectors.
 
  I bought a similar kit at a local hamfest...I paid more than
  the above, but
  didn't pay shipping...so it was close to a drawalso got
  two base plates that
  kinda fan out, and a neat top hat for mutliple wires.
 
  
   I know this is not lightweight stuff, but some of us do not backpack
   in and operate far from the vehicle :)
 
  Mine was heavy enough that I had a bit of difficulty getting
  it back to the
  car...and several folks commented that they too were winded
  after getting theirs
  last year.
 
  Thom,EIEIO
  Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer
 
  www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon
  www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low
  as 3.49/month
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[Elecraft] K3 manuals

2007-10-10 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Just finished a quick walk through the owner's manual
and the schematics.

Wow, this definitely is NOT your father's rig :-)
Tremendous piece of work by all involved.  More
eager than ever to get one of my own.

73, Bob N6WG
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Re: [Elecraft] PC-K3 command responsiveness

2007-10-09 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Wayne
Does the use of the mouse to click imply a computer,
or some uP likely to be imbedded in the Pan'r?
Running TRLOG in DOS doesn't leave me with a
mouse to click on things.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 9:25 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] PC-K3 command responsiveness


 Richard Smith wrote:
 
  My first reaction without trying the program (always dangerous) is 
  that needing HRD sitting between the PowerSDR GUI and the K3, and 
  controlling the K3 via serial commands, will leave users with the 
  feeling that software control just isn't responsive enough for real 
  world uses.
 
 Richard,
 
 The K3 serial I/O port can run at up to 38.4 kb, and command response 
 is very fast. It can also buffer a large number of commands at full 
 speed and respond to them in order, error-free. To verify this, I'll 
 paste 10 different commands into the terminal emulator window, running 
 at 38.4 kb. All 10 responses appear in the terminal emulator window 
 immediately, with no perceptible delay.
 
 Yesterday there was a discussion about Panadapter responsiveness. 
 If/when we offer a panadapter, it will be tightly linked with the K3, 
 so you'll be able to do things like click on a signal and move the VFO 
 to it, etc. If the text decoder is turned on, CW, RTTY, and PSK31 
 signals will be decoded and displayed on the K3's own LCD and/or in a 
 window on the panadapter.
 
 Of course the P3 would match the K3's enclosure styling, too, and may 
 include a power supply and/or speaker. For field ops, you could take 
 just the K3. Either way, it's computer-optional.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?

2007-10-08 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Vic
Just out of curiousity, have you metered the
K3's current draw in receive mode?  I
expect to use my K3 at 5w on FD next year, and
want to start planning for the battery/solar
bank to run it.
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Chris Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?


 Chris Wagner wrote:

  Is the K3's filters an improvement to the K2's variable one? Are
machines or
  people building the factory assembled K3s? Has someone compared K2 and
K3
  side by side? Thank you!

 The K3's filters are much better than the K2's, in terms of IMD
 performance and ultimate rejection.

 The K3 has both an analog noise blanker and a DSP noise blanker; the
 combination is effective against the Chinese radar (at least as heard in
 California!).

 Note the DSP noise blanker is different from the DSP noise *reduction*,
 which is an entirely different function. NR reduces background noise
 which makes listening more comfortable, but does not remove pulse noise.

 The K2 has an optional analog noise blanker and an optional DSP which
 provides an NR function. The K3 comes with the analog noise blanker, the
 DSP noise blanker, and the DSP NR function.

 All of the above are much more easily adjustable on the fly in the K3.

 I have listened to the K2 and K3 side by side and the K3 is much better
 in many ways. Of course, it is also bigger, more expensive, and more
 power-hungry (which might matter if you will run it from batteries).
 --
 73,
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 AGC Threshold Adjustment

2007-10-08 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Jim
Since the problem is the same between two radios built
some time apart, I have to ask, are you using the same
meter?  If so, try borrowing one from a friend and make
the measurement.  It is possible your meter is a bit off.
At least, it's worth a simple test.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6Wg

- Original Message -
From: Jim Stoneback [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 11:53 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 AGC Threshold Adjustment


 Hi,

 When I built my K2/100 the threshold adjustment didn't go right, I turn
 trimmer R1 full CCW to get 3.74v on pin5 of U2 (full CW pin 5 goes to
2.6v).
 This adjustment is supposed to swing U2 pin 5 fom from 4 to 8 v.  I
checked
 diode polarity, resistor values, everything but never did find the
problem.

 Now I'm building another K2 and have encountered exactly the same result.
 Anybody got a clue?

 73,

 Jim
 Jim Stoneback
 K4AXF
 Drake SW8
 K2.ssb.100 sn 6194
 K2 sn 6263 (underway)

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Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?

2007-10-08 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Thanks, Vic
I'll probably start my K3 with no PA, as I'm a full-time
QRPer.  That would help keep the drain down to some-
thing manageable.  Also no 2nd RX to start anyway.

What would be your impression of the difficulty of removing
the 100w PA to keep drain down for FD?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Reflector
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice - which Elecraft rig for SE Asia?


 Robert Tellefsen wrote:
  Hi Vic
  Just out of curiousity, have you metered the
  K3's current draw in receive mode?  I
  expect to use my K3 at 5w on FD next year, and
  want to start planning for the battery/solar
  bank to run it.

 Yes, actually, it's about 1 amp.  It might be less if you don't have the
 100w amp installed; it doesn't seem to matter if you turn the power down
 to 5 watts with the amp in place. The second RX would also increase the
 current drawn.
 --
 73,
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Anyone use a noise canceller?

2007-09-22 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Mark
If you cannot locate the noise source, can you at least
determine it's direction from you?  A simple untuned
loop should allow you to do that.
An antenna noice canceller (ANC) works best if you
can get a pickup antena as close as possible to the
source, relative to the communication antenna, even
if it is just to the edge of your property.
I have both the ANC-4 and the MFJ-1026, and they
both work well on a single noise source.  They can't
cope with multiple noise sources, though, or a single
source spread out over an area, such a power line
that is radiating along its length.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Mark Hampton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft list elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 3:39 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Anyone use a noise canceller?


Hi all,
I have a S-9 noise level across the bands and despite some detective
work, I have been unable to locate the source.

I feel that I may have to resort to using a noise canceller in order to use
the bands at the home QTH.

Before I purchase one, I'm wondering if any of the subscribers to this list
use one and if so, how effective are they?

Apologies for the off-topic post but I though I'd canvass opinions before I
buy one.

Thanks, Mark M5MDH
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Anyone use a noise canceller?

2007-09-22 Thread Robert Tellefsen
No, David, can't say I've done that.
I don't think it would be too successful, though,
because when you tune away from the frequency
where you have nulled a noise source, it comes
back.  The null will only hold over a certain
frequency spread, sepending on the band.  Then
you have to redo the null.  So with two nulls
on two sources, when you move into one null you
would be moving out of another.  The noise might
not show any improvement overall.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: David Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft list elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Anyone use a noise canceller?


 Bob

 Wonder if you (or anyone) has mixed the outputs from 2 or more noise
 cancellers, perhaps using different antennas for each.

 David
 G3UNA


 - Original Message -
 From: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mark Hampton [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft list
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 2:36 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Anyone use a noise canceller?


  Hi Mark
  If you cannot locate the noise source, can you at least
  determine it's direction from you?  A simple untuned
  loop should allow you to do that.
  An antenna noice canceller (ANC) works best if you
  can get a pickup antena as close as possible to the
  source, relative to the communication antenna, even
  if it is just to the edge of your property.
  I have both the ANC-4 and the MFJ-1026, and they
  both work well on a single noise source.  They can't
  cope with multiple noise sources, though, or a single
  source spread out over an area, such a power line
  that is radiating along its length.
  Good luck and 73
  Bob N6WG
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Mark Hampton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Elecraft list elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 3:39 AM
  Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Anyone use a noise canceller?
 
 
  Hi all,
 I have a S-9 noise level across the bands and despite some
  detective
  work, I have been unable to locate the source.
 
  I feel that I may have to resort to using a noise canceller in order to
  use
  the bands at the home QTH.
 
  Before I purchase one, I'm wondering if any of the subscribers to this
  list
  use one and if so, how effective are they?
 
  Apologies for the off-topic post but I though I'd canvass opinions
before
  I
  buy one.
 
  Thanks, Mark M5MDH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Files 75m ssb

2007-09-22 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Tree
L:istening to the ssb audio, I could hear the static
crashes in the background.  Do any of the noise
reduction features make a dent in the crashes
yet?
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Tree [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Don Rasmussen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Files 75m ssb


 On Sat, Sep 22, 2007 at 09:18:05AM -0700, Don Rasmussen wrote:
 
  That's just amazing. It sounds so much richer that
  way. I am so wanting to get a K3 in my hands. !!!
 
 It is really cool.  Speakers will work if you have your head in the
 middle.
 
 Tree
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Files 75m ssb

2007-09-22 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Thanks, Tree.
Really eager to see how it works out.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Tree [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Files 75m ssb


 On Sat, Sep 22, 2007 at 09:28:13AM -0700, Robert Tellefsen wrote:
 
  L:istening to the ssb audio, I could hear the static
  crashes in the background.  Do any of the noise
  reduction features make a dent in the crashes
  yet?
 
 The honest answer is that I don't know yet.  There is some neato noise
 reduction stuff being worked on and I understand the first version of 
 it is available - but I have to get an upgrade of my DSP hardware to 
 the production version before I can test it here.
 
 Tree
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[Elecraft] K3 PA bypass in receive

2007-09-21 Thread Robert Tellefsen
I've been studying the block diagram of the K3,
and have a question about the 100w PA block.

There is a bypass relay shown in in the PA I/O
block which would provide the receive path.
Is this really a relay or some bypass circuit?
I wouldn't be happy with a relay flapping away, trying
to follow keying.  Hate the clicking noise from
them.

Anybody know?
73, Bob N6WG

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PA bypass in receive

2007-09-21 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Thanks, Lyle.
I thought that would be the case, but
good to have it confirmed.

Not ready to operate QRO yet, but when
I buy my K3 it will have the 100w PA in it,
just in case :-)

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message - 
From: Lyle Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Mail List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 PA bypass in receive


  There is a bypass relay shown in in the PA I/O
  block which would provide the receive path.
  Is this really a relay or some bypass circuit?
 
 There are no T-R relays, Bob.  The block diagram is indicating a 
 switching arrangement.  Trust me, the T-R switching is not mechanical at 
 QRP or QRO levels!
 
 73,
 
 Lyle KK7P
 
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Re: [Elecraft] higher-resolution assembly manual to be posted soon

2007-09-11 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Wayne
Another idea for those that want to look at a higher resolution
photo would be to put a folder of them on the E web site.
Then people could download the whole thing, or just select
those pix they particularly wanted for a better look.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Eric Swartz
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 8:57 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] higher-resolution assembly manual to be posted soon



  It's not a matter of  can't please all of the ..
  regarding the LOW REZ 

 Fred,

 The only reason that a low-resolution preliminary manual was posted is
 because the file size of the high-res version is much larger. (The
 Microsoft Word original is over 50 megabytes!)

 We'll post a larger one anyway for those who don't mind the download
 time.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Hotel antenna

2007-09-03 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Dave
One thing you will need is a way to hold the wire
away from the side of the building.  A telescoping
fishing pole would be the easiest to take along
and draw no comments.  You can stick it out a
window and let the thin wire hang down in the
clear.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Dave Van Wallaghen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 10:58 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Hotel antenna


 OT I know, but it does relate to my K2 ;-)

 Wondering if anyone on the list might have a recommendation for a simple
QRP
 antenna for use in a hotel? My wife is attending a conference in Chicago
in
 a couple of weeks and I'm going with. When she booked the hotel, I just
 asked that we get a room as high as possible. I'm not sure what we got
yet.

 I'm taking my K2 (I bought a nice Pelican case for it a few months ago)
and
 a few spools of small enameled wire. I was thinking of just using a 65'
end
 fed with a 1/4 wavelength counterpoise for 40m operation. I've also done
 some reading on the W3EDP antenna.

 Anyone have some decent experiences out there? Or, bad ones that I should
 stay away from?

 Dave W8FGU
 K2 #5099

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Reference Oscillator

2007-08-29 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Wayne, given that 49.380 isn't a readily available
calibration freq like, say, WWV, how does a ham
in the field check or set it if needed?
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Ron Durie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 8:59 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K3 Reference Oscillator


 49.380 MHz. All signal sources are phase-locked to the refernce. Fine 
 adjustment occurs in firmware, and once calibrated, it's accurate to 
 about 1 Hz through 6 meters at the calibration temperature. The 
 high-stability option is at the same frequency, with firmware 
 correction to better than 0.5 ppm.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 On Aug 29, 2007, at 8:51 AM, Ron Durie wrote:
 
  What is the operating frequency of the K3 TCXO reference oscillator?
 
 
 
 ---
 
 http://www.elecraft.com
 
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[Elecraft] Questions for any K3 FTs

2007-08-20 Thread Robert Tellefsen
1.  I understand the K3 has a much more sophisticated noise blanker
than the K2.  Also that the DSP includes a blanking capability.
I'd appreciate any impressions as to how well these work, alone
or in combination.

2.  On the DVK capability, do we get some kind of audio sidetone
when transmitting to reassure the op he punched the right button?

 Also, is the DVK controllable from a logging program like
 TRLOG?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

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Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2

2007-08-14 Thread Robert Tellefsen
John
When the K2 is finished and it's time for alignment,
many of us use a noise generator to feed the receiver,
the Spectrogram audio spectrum analyzer program
to set the filters up for the best results, and an
oscilloscope to display the resulting filter passbands.
I believe the free version of Spectrogram is still available
on N0SS' web page.  There are several noise generator
kits around, not very complicated at all.  I believe Elecraft
also has one.  It would be an easy kit for your son to knock
out along the way.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: John Huggins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 9:08 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2


 OK so I have decided to buy the base K2 kit and build it along with my
 son; He needs to see a process like this unfold.
 
 I have read the various FAQs, tips, etc.
 
 I am not new to kit building.
 
 We have a good soldering station.
 
 If the K2 works out well we will use it on CW for a while and then add
 enhancements: SSB first then others (perhaps DSP, 160M, 60M-Xvrter,
 100Watts)..
 
 Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin?
 
 John
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Re: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline

2007-08-14 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Thom
There are various grades of 300 ohm twinlead.
Some are very cheap and have pretty skimpy
conductors.  Some are good quality.  There is/was
at least one version that was suitable for transmitting
(power level not stated that I can recall).  If you
have some of the good quality stuff, you can probably
do 100w just fine.  I'd watch out for the skimpy stuff,
though.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Thom LaCosta [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 4:26 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline


 It's been years since I melted 300 ohm twin lead...

 Can I use it for a 44 foot each side of center doublet at 100 watts out?
I
 can't find any other open wire feedline locally, and I need to get
something up
 in the airI keep on walking into the slinky that runs down my hallway.

 I'm thinking at 5 watts it will pass...just not sure what will happen at
100
 watts.

 Thanks

 73 k3hrn
 Thom,EIEIO
 Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer

 www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon
 www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] operating question about K2 pre-amp/attenuator

2007-08-14 Thread Robert Tellefsen
In a nutshell, band conditions.
At times, on 80 or 40m, signals and noise will be plenty strong.
So then I switch in the attenuator.
The preamp is mainly for use on 20m and up, especially if you
are using just wire antennas without the gain of a beam.  If you
have a good beam, and signals are strong enough for operation
without the preamp, by all means, turn it off.
In contest conditions, the preamp increases the problems of
QRM from strong nearby stations.  Also, on 80 and 40, the
attenuator can help with keeping the KW stations from drowning
out the weaker stations that you might be working.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Matthew Denson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 9:38 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] operating question about K2 pre-amp/attenuator


Hi All,

My operating experience is fairly limited, so I have a question about
operating the K2.

What circumstances would cause one to turn off the pre-amp? And related,
what circumstances would cause one to turn on the attenuator?  Even my old
FT-101 had an attenuator to switch in, but I never came across a situation
where I thought I'd want to.

73, Matthew AE6UP







Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's
Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
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Re: [Elecraft] Next K2 Addon

2007-08-10 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Matt
I personally believe the ATU is the slickest of all
the options created for the K2.  I just plain works!
Darned hard to find an antenna I can't find a match
for with the ATU.  This is particularly important
if you like to take your K2 on trips, Field Day,
or just an outing in the park.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Matt Palmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 4:16 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Next K2 Addon


 I figured i would poll the peanut gallery, assuming in my next two
 weeks where i have nothing better to do i can finish the K2 and get it
 aligned quickly, I should have some extra pocket change, what is the
 logical next step, auto-tuner or SSB board? (SSB will be used for psk
 only)? All comments, advice and snide remarks are accepted and
 appreciated!
 
 
 Matt
 KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Tuner?

2007-08-01 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Jim
I use the dual balun from Elecraft.  I switch
between 1:1 and 4:1 to see which one gives
the lowest swr on the band I'm on.  Then let
the ATU tune it for the final match.  I do the
checking with the ATU in CAL S so I can
see the unmatched swr right from the balun.
Then I switch the ATU in and let'er rip.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Jim Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 5:07 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Tuner?


 My remote tuner bit the dust again and I'm going to actually use the K2
 tuner for a while.

 My setup is a dipole about 88ft long at about 50ft off the ground.

 It's fed with a nominal 450ohm window line (thewireman) and it will take
 about 75ft of this to reach my back porch where I will temporarily
 operate...mosquitos permitting...

 My question is do any of you find a balun necessary in such a situation or
 do you just go with a BNC to banana jack adapter?

 If you find a balun helpful which do you use: 4:1 or 9:1?

 73

 jim ab3cv

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP

2007-07-30 Thread Robert Tellefsen
To the contrary, John.
The KDSP2 does several things for you.
The obvious cw filtering, additional audio
gain, and the Noise Reduction that you
only get with a DSP unit.  Mine is
switched in all the time.  Great unit.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: John Reilly [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 10:19 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP


 I notice no mention in the Reflector about the DSP module in the K2. 
 Furthermore, I never see a K2 equipped with DSP for sale.
 
 Is there a reason that the DSP module is not popular in the K2?
 
   - 73, John, W0JFR
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Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic: Manhattan Style Construction

2007-07-26 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Lee

Well, there are several ways to do Manhattan construction.
You can use a punch to make circular pads, or you can use
a nibbling tool to get small rectangular pads.  I glue mine
down to a surface with Crazy glue.

Components can be mounted vertically or horizontally,
depending on what you are doing.  With vertical mounting,
one lead is very short, soldered directly to its pad.  The other
lead then is bent over and comes down to the other pad.
This works well with resistors, diodes, small molded chokes,
etc.  For disc caps or other components with the leads coming
out of the same side, standing the component up with both
leads out the bottom seems to be best.  Due to layout needs,
sometimes one component will be horizontal, and another
will be vertical, straddling the horizontal part.

Ground connections can be soldered directly to the conductive
substrate, whatever you use.

I have mostly built preamps using Manhattan style building.
I like to build each stage on its own small substrate of PC
material.  I can easily test them before installing them in
an Altoids can.  Great little project boxes :-)  I have
one preamp of three stages, each with its own substrate,
with the substrates soldered to the Altoids can for a
secure ground.

Hope this gives you a few ideas, Lee.  We haven't covered
all of it here, but this should give you some starting ideas.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude
- Original Message -
From: Lee Buller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 6:29 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Off Topic: Manhattan Style Construction




 Sorry for the off topic question, but I am looking for information on tips
and tricks to Manhattan Style Construction.  There was a great article
published on the net several years ago, but it seems to have disappeared.
Anyone have information or where I can get information about this style of
construction?

 Lee Buller - K0WA



 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you
don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you
can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common
Sense.  Is Common Sense divine?
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 question

2007-07-05 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Frank
The K2 tuning experience is smooth, but a bit different.
The K1 is continuous tuning with an LC oscillator.
The K2 uses a sort of synthesizer, in that the tuning
goes about 5 kHz then there is a tick as the internal
works switches to the next 5 kHz range.  For all
practical purposes, it is continuous tuning.  An
advantage to the K2 tuning is that you can change
the tuning rate from the front panel.  Mine has three
different tuning rates which I just love.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Frank [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 5:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] k2 question


 K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and
do use it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it
smooth to use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
Thank You
 Frank Caputo
 WA2AAW
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Re: [Elecraft] Guidance

2007-06-19 Thread Robert Tellefsen
I would suggest you look at 40m.
During this low part of the sunspot cycle,
you are more likely to find QSOs on 40 than on any other 
band, day or night.
Welcome to ham radio, Frank.
Hope to run into you on the air one day.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Frank J. MacDonell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 12:43 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Guidance


 I got my Technician license in February and I am learning CW. I have 
 built a dipole and ordered a K3. What advice do you guys have for 
 initial band use and getting feet wet in the Ham Universe? Thanks!
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Re: [Elecraft] waaaay OT: Russian Woodpecker

2007-06-08 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Wow, that antenna structure is truly mind boggling.
Sure wish I could read Russian.  It looks really
interesting.  I think my K2 could burn a hole in a
steel plate with the gain of that antenna system :-)
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 10:00 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] wy OT: Russian Woodpecker


 http://pripyat.com/ru/internet_photo/chernobyl_2/1/1627.html
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[Elecraft] K3 noise blanking

2007-05-23 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Have any of the Field Testers with working K3s had a chance to
look at the combined performance of the hardware (firmware?)
and DSP noise blanking abilities to suppress key clicks from
other stations?

During some contests, that would sure be handy.

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
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Re: [Elecraft] Keyboard question

2007-05-16 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Ken
I have one that might be what you are looking for.
I use it with TR LOG here.
The mfr is BTC, and I think the model is 5100-C.
It has no numeric key pad.  It has 10 F keys.
Width is 11.75 inches by 6 inches deep.
Really fits well on my small operating desk.
It has foldup legs at the rear to raise the back
a bit for a more comfortable typing angle.
It was quite inexpensive, as I recall.  Maybe
something around $20 at my local computer
store.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Ken Kopp [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 8:24 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Keyboard question


 Can someone aim me at a small keyboard?  I realize that small
 is relative, so let's say something that's appropiate for my K3.  
 Something on the order of a small laptop keyboard in a housing.
 
 I've walked the isles of a few computer departments scanning the 
 shelves, asked sales folks and haven't found anything.
 
 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 37, Issue 22

2007-05-11 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi David
Just out of curiousity, have you experimented with receiving
loops at all?
On 160m, I pretty much have to receive on a loop, as my
vertical is very noisy in this neighborhood.
There is a tremendous wealth of info about loop antennas on
the web.
I have three loops.  One tuned loop for 160m on a cheap Radio
Shack TV rotator, an untuned loop that can be swapped with
the tuned one for use on 80 and 40, and a fixed Flag loop
which is aimed at New York.  Info on the Flag loop can be
found at http://www.angelfire.com/md/k3ky/page37.html

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: David Ferrington [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 3:09 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 37, Issue 22


 I think I agree, here in a very built up area, I have an S9 noise floor
that
 I can do little about except move. And moving isn't an option right now
 (maybe in 10 years when I retire, Hi).
 Unfortunately, putting something bigger up in the way of an antenna is
 probably not an option either (I have a high long wire,  6m halo, 2m halo

 6m/2m/70cm vertical).

 Running much more that 100W would probably be a problem for my neighbours
 too (with who I have good relations at present).

 So a good Rx is my best option - I've got one on order, it's called a K3
:-)


 On 11/5/07 09:05, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent:

 
  Money spent on an improved antenna system
  would far outweigh money spent on extra power,
  especially at the 3dB increase level.

 --
 Hofstadter's Law: The time and effort required to complete a project are
 always more than you expect, even when you take into account Hofstadter's
 Law.


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Re: [Elecraft] Yaesu FT-2000 v K-3?

2007-05-10 Thread Robert Tellefsen
There's one more thing to consider.

I contest at the 5W level, and work almost
everything I can hear eventually.  That
being the case, 100w might let me work those
stations a bit sooner, but once I've done that,
those 100w won't help me hear any better.
Gotta hear them to work them.

Money spent on an improved antenna system
would far outweigh money spent on extra power,
especially at the 3dB increase level.

73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elliott Lawrence [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Yaesu FT-2000 v K-3?


 On May 10, 2007, at 10:06 AM, Elliott Lawrence wrote:
 
  One thing that would help would be an additional option for a 200w  
  capable radio  the K3D!!!  I wonder if that is a future  
  possiblity??!!
 
 Do you really think that 3dB will be enough of an advantage? That is  
 all you will get when you go from 100W to 200W.
 
 It seems to me that one needs at least 6dB to make enough difference  
 to make the effort worthwhile. 6dB seems to be the difference  
 between, I know you are there but I can't quite copy you, and,  
 QSL. If you started at 100W then you would need 400W to make that  
 difference.
 
 I tend to think that 10dB is about the right increment and that would  
 be 1000W. That leads me to feel that if you need more power than 100W  
 you are going to need an external amplifier.
 
 And then there is the issue of path symmetry. Path loss is going to  
 be the same in both directions. Given that most rigs out there are in  
 the 100W range the signal arriving at each end will be the same. Hmmm.
 
 Oh! The K3 is likely to have a much better receiver than the one the  
 other guy is using. So if he is using 100W and you have acceptable  
 copy on him you might need a 3dB-6dB improvement in your signal in  
 order to deliver an equivalent readability signal to the other end.  
 Interesting thought. Maybe a 200-300W PA wouldn't be such a bad idea  
 after all.
 
 73 de Brian, WB6RQN
 Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Advice needed on stripping enameled wire

2007-05-08 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Gary
For over 55 years, I've always cleaned the ends of
enameled wire by scraping with a sharp blade on
my pocket knife.  With practice, it doesn't take
much longer than using the melt it off approach,
but it' s always with me, whereever I may be :-)
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Gary McKelvie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 2:05 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice needed on stripping enameled wire


 Hi to the list,
 
 Was wondering if anyone has any tips for stripping the enamel off the 
 enameled wire for coils,transformers etc.
 I find that using the hot blob of solder method wasteful of solder 
 and not 100%, so am currently using a mixture of a lighter flame and 
 the solder technique which seems to be better than just the blob of 
 solder method..
 
 So is there a better way or how do you do them?
 
 73 Gary G7USC
 
 
 Gary McKelvie
 G7USC
 Web : www.garym.org.uk
 Mobile : +447968501863
 MSN Messenger : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 So Long and Thanks for all the Fish 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Improvement Ideas--Adding on

2007-05-04 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Bill
I'd like to add to your list the ability to have the
KAT2 autotuner be active on one antenna port
and be bypassed on the other.

I have some antennas that require the autotuner
for a match, and others that are already a good
match as they are.

I'd also like to see an improvement in the cw crystal filter
to improve the signal suppression outside the filter
passband.

73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Bill Coleman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 8:32 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Improvement Ideas


 
 On Apr 28, 2007, at 12:45 PM, wayne burdick wrote:
 
  Please send me directly any suggestions for K2 improvements. I  
  maintain this list, prioritizing task items based on the needs of  
  current and future K2 owners.
 
 OK, you asked for it
 
 I'm certainly going to buy a K3, when I can afford it, which may be a  
 while. I do have several suggestions for the K2, which is going to  
 remain a very fine and capable radio:
 
 Firmware Only Enhancements:
 
 1) RTTY Mark Frequency Display. Like the CW mode displays the  
 frequency of the received CW signal, the RTTY mode ought to display  
 the frequency of the Mark signal. A menu option would be needed to  
 set the frequency of the Mark signal. (This would essentially  
 subtract or add the Mark frequency from the LSB/USB carrier  
 frequency, respectively)
 
 2) Option for VOX to toggle VOX on / off only. Delay is set in a menu  
 option. (Beats having to cycle through all delay times to turn on /  
 off, which I do frequently)
 
 3) Menu settings for default tuning rate for each mode (CW, USB/LSB,  
 RTTY). I currently find myself constantly switching between 10 Hz and  
 50 Hz whenever I change modes.
 
 4) Unified Filters - Have three or four filter presets for each mode  
 that are combinations of an XFIL and DSP setting values. Allow one  
 button (such as XFIL) to cycle through the presets. This would allow  
 easier manipulation of the two sets of filters, rather than having to  
 tap and hold the same button to get things in sync. (Made even harder  
 because you can't see which filter is currently selected)
 
 5) IF Shift - replace XIT mode with IF Shift. RIT takes priority over  
 the control if on. Either that, or control IF Shift with the Keyer  
 speed control (at least in USB/LSB, RTTY). Or perhaps hold down XIT  
 and rotate tuning dial.
 
 6) Option to flip CW sidebands on 15m and up so tuning direction  
 stays the same.
 
 7) Computer command to set the contents of the CW memories -- so you  
 can program them from a PC program and then run them from the front  
 panel.
 
 8) New INP mode that would allow PTT on the dot line and CW keying on  
 the dash line for contesting work. (No auto-detect of hand keying in  
 this mode)
 
 9) Have a mode for variable rate tuning -- normal tuning is one step  
 at a time, but as you turn the knob faster, the tuning rate increases  
 so long as you tune quickly. (A similar technology is used to  
 accelerate mouse movement and has been on the Mac for over two decades)
 
 10) Option for one-touch selection of Tuner AUTO/CAL (eg out)  
 selection. This would allow one to easily switch the tuner on and off.
 
 
 Hardware Improvements:
 
 1) Improved KSB2 module -- filter with sharper skirts (better than  
 1.5 shape factor), more (6-10 dB) mic gain available, more positive  
 VOX (using separate VOX amplifier), anti-VOX circuitry.
 
 2) Improved KNB2 -- allow selection of longer blanking times, more  
 thresholds, better blanking action.
 
 3) PFx Module -- teeny little module that has four (or so) buttons.  
 Hooks into AUX line and offers access to eight functions of the K2  
 (four for tap, four for hold) Obviates the need for FPLY, opens the  
 K2 up for easier access to things like switching filter presets,  
 noise reduction modes, RIT clear. Lots simpler and cheaper than the  
 KRC2 because it is just the buttons. (Might also be useful for the K3)
 
 4) Remote Tuning Knob -- borrow the idea from Ten-Tec. Perhaps part  
 of PFx module.
 
 Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Improvement Ideas--Adding on

2007-05-04 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Don
Yes, if there were only two antennas, that
would work., and I've done that.   However,
I have more than that, some connected to a
rotary switch outboard to the K2.
When I switch them, I don't want to
retune the ATU with each new antenna I
connect, as I'm often switching to find the
best signal for a station I'm trying to work.
Some antennas present a nice 50 ohm match
as they are, and some don't.  I'd like to put
the 50 ohm matches all together on one
port and those that need matching on the
other port.
I'm still trying to get to the point where all
the antennas are 50 ohms at the switch, and
then it wouldn't matter.  But it ain't easy :-)

73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Bill Coleman [EMAIL PROTECTED]; wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED];
Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Improvement Ideas--Adding on


 Bob,

 I see no real need for a bypass on just one of the tuner antenna jacks.
 In my mind it is already there, but better - just do a TUNE once on each
 band where your antenna is resonant and the K2 will remember - I regard
 that as better than a bypass function.


 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Robert Tellefsen wrote:
  Bill
  I'd like to add to your list the ability to have the
  KAT2 autotuner be active on one antenna port
  and be bypassed on the other.
 
  I have some antennas that require the autotuner
  for a match, and others that are already a good
  match as they are.
 
  I'd also like to see an improvement in the cw crystal filter
  to improve the signal suppression outside the filter
  passband.
 
  73, Bob N6WG

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Improvement Ideas--Adding on

2007-05-04 Thread Robert Tellefsen
True, but I seem to recall he decided the
return on the effort involved wasn't worth
it.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Bill Coleman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Improvement Ideas--Adding on



 On May 4, 2007, at 12:14 AM, Robert Tellefsen wrote:

  I'd also like to see an improvement in the cw crystal filter
  to improve the signal suppression outside the filter
  passband.

 I'm pretty happy with the CW filter. It has good suppression outside
 the passband for me -- although I'm considering making a couple of
 bypass cap mods to improve this. I think KI6WX published a mod that
 involved a half-dozen chip capacitors.

 Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901


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Re: [Elecraft] K3

2007-05-04 Thread Robert Tellefsen
I hope (and expect) that the K3 has more
robust headphone jacks.

73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Lyle Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: ELECRAFT Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3


  If using an external receiver with K3 is the RX ANT OUT the correct
connection to get signal to the external RX?

 Yes.

  I see a PHONES connector on rear panel.  If used how does one switch
between speaker and headphones?   I like the idea to get MIC and HEADPHONES
off the front panel.

 Plug in headphones to either the front or rear phones jack and the
 speaker is muted.

  Is the PA circuit breaker readily available if needed?

 Yes, it is on the rear panel, part of the fan assembly.

  Can ANT1 and ANT2 be set and stored by band?

 Yes.

 73,

 Lyle KK7P

 (I'll let someone else answer the first two questions you asked.)

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3

2007-05-04 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Now that is COOL!
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:28 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K3


 Lyle Johnson wrote:
 
  Can ANT1 and ANT2 be set and stored by band?
 
 The settings for ANT1 and 2 are stored on a per-band, per-GP-memory 
 basis.
 
 Also stored is up to a 5-character text label for each antenna. So, 
 when you change antennas, it'll tell you whether you're on the YAGI 
 or the VERT, etc. The antenna name is also flashed briefly whenever 
 you change bands, as a quick reminder that's more meaningful than just 
 1 or 2.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 ---
 
 http://www.elecraft.com
 
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[Elecraft] Maintenance question

2007-05-01 Thread Robert Tellefsen
While everyone is talking up all the new and neat stuff
in the K3, I haven't seen much mentioned about how
the K3 will be maintained.

How extensive are the diagnostic routines to enable the
owner to decide if a module is bad, and which one?

Are the modules field repairable?  If extensively SMD
populated, I would guess probably not.

Will the modules be factory repaired and returned, or
will there be a module exchange program.

Part of the fame of the K2 is its owner repairability.
Since it seems we won't be able to do much with the
inner works of the modules, it would be reassuring to
know just what provision will be made to getting back
on the air reasonably quickly.

Keep up the good work.  I'm saving my pennies for my K3.

73, Bob N6WG

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[Elecraft] Another T Shirt idea

2007-05-01 Thread Robert Tellefsen
To steal a line from the sports world,

Elecraft
It's a K3-peat

73, Bob N6WG
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Re: [Elecraft] TShirt

2007-05-01 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Oh, bad pun.
I love it :-)
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Mike [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 8:36 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] TShirt


   e l e c r a f
t


   k
 kkk
   k
 kkk
   k
  k
  k


 K Tree
73, k5nu
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Re: [Elecraft] T shirt slogans

2007-05-01 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hmmm
Sounds like a license plate.
You may need an annual sticker to
keep the cops from ticketing you :-)
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hall [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 1:02 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] T shirt slogans


 I just left a deposit for a K3.
 
 My T shirt will now say:
 
 K34ME! K24U?
 
 Tom, ak2b
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft in ARRL 160

2007-04-30 Thread Robert Tellefsen
#20 for N6WG.  160 is tough from CA, especially QRP :-)
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 5:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft in ARRL 160


 Looks like I made #36 for QRP Single Op with my K2 and only a couple of
hours of opearating time.

 Mark, NK8Q


 From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2007/04/30 Mon AM 07:36:24 CDT
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft in ARRL 160

 Curious how many other Elecrafts made the Top Ten in
 the ARRL 160.
 
 I know Gene, KB7Q, used one, as did I... Anyone else?
 
 73,
 Julius
 n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft in ARRL 160

2007-04-30 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Yes, and KH6 and JA also.
I even worked N8S on topband during the expedition.
Also found that I took first place in Pacific Division
ARRL 160 cw.  Just aren't that many QRPers on
top band out here.
73, Bob N6WG


- Original Message -
From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft in ARRL 160


 160M QRP is getting to be very popular and
 competitive.

 You folks in the west do get kinda robbed on
 multipliers...of course, KL7 is somewhat easier ;o)

 Cheers,
 Julius
 n2wn

 --- Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  #20 for N6WG.  160 is tough from CA, especially QRP
  :-)
  73, Bob N6WG
 
  - Original Message -
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED];
  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 5:52 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft in ARRL 160
 
 
   Looks like I made #36 for QRP Single Op with my K2
  and only a couple of
  hours of opearating time.
  
   Mark, NK8Q
  
  
   From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Date: 2007/04/30 Mon AM 07:36:24 CDT
   To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft in ARRL 160
  
   Curious how many other Elecrafts made the Top Ten
  in
   the ARRL 160.
   
   I know Gene, KB7Q, used one, as did I... Anyone
  else?
   
   73,
   Julius
   n2wn
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   Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
 
 


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft in ARRL 160

2007-04-30 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Well done, Gary.  You're the guy I always try
to beat, and never quite make it.  But I'm
still trying :-)
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message - 
From: Gary Hembree [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft in ARRL 160


 5th place QRP with K2 #2154. Shunt-fed 22 meter tower and K9AY
 loop array for antennas.  #2 QRP multiplier total, way behind 
 VY2ZM.  Gathering mults is the only way I can compete from 
 Arizona, where it's a long way to the 160 meter population 
 center.
 
 See you in the next contest.
 
 73
 Gary, N7IR
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: roofing filter loss and method of compensation

2007-04-29 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Wayne
Will the variable bandwidth filters have better
ultimate rejection/less blowby than the variable
bandwidth filter in the K2?
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Toby Deinhardt [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 4:30 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: roofing filter loss and method of compensation


 Wow, Toby, that *is* a complicated question, partly because we haven't 
 nailed down the specs for our variable-passband roofing filters yet. 
 I'd leave room for at least one of those (CW or SSB bandwidths).
 
 Here's a set that covers all modes including AM and FM:
 
FL1 = FM bandwidth (something like 13 kHz)
FL2 = 6 kHz (AM; wide SSB)
FL3 = 2.8 kHz (workhorse SSB filter)
FL4 = 500 Hz (nominal CW)
FL5 = 200 Hz (narrow CW)
 
 If you were doing primarily SSB, you might want to go with 1.8 or 2.1 
 kHz at FL4. At present these filters are only offered by INRAD. We plan 
 to offer a variable-passband 5-pole filter that covers something like 
 1.8 to 2.5 kHz that would fill this bill in the future.
 
 Having used something different at FL4, you'd then need to reevaluate 
 FL5. It could be 400 Hz (INRAD fixed), 500 Hz (Elecraft fixed), or even 
 an Elecraft variable CW/DATA bandwidth filter -- TBD, but probably 
 something like 300-600 or 300-800 Hz.
 
 Of course this assumes that you want AM and FM-bandwidth filters. If 
 you don't operate in these modes, you'll have more SSB/CW/DATA filter 
 flexibility. You could also put narrower filters on the sub-receiver.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 On Apr 29, 2007, at 1:13 PM, Toby Deinhardt wrote:
 
  Hi Wayne,
 
  I know that this is a really loaded question, and I am sure that if
  you put three hams in a room you would get 7 opinions...
 
  What combination of filters (fixed and/or variable) would you feel are
  appropriate for...
 
 
 
  ---
 
 http://www.elecraft.com
 
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Re: [Elecraft] 1966 Year Of QST Volumes

2007-04-26 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Andy
ARRL sells CDs with several years of QST on one CD.
Look in any QST, or go to the ARRL web page.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Andy - GM0NWI [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 11:07 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] 1966 Year Of QST Volumes


 Guy's...

 Recently saw a post from someone on one of the lists selling a bound
volume
 of I think QST's...

 Just wondering, as we are all a bit nostalgic with one thing or another, I
 was born in ZL on
 May 1st 1966 and would like to try and find out where one would actually
 find the complete
 Year of 1966 QST magazines as a collection together..

 Is there a CD\DVD available somewhere that would give this... or is it
just
 merley down to folks having
 the volumes complete from that era...??

 What about price of these things..how does that go ...

 Any info would be appreciated...

 TIA

 73's
 Andy
 GM0NWI [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] Recieve antennas in an Urban area

2007-04-22 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Good morning Rich
I have three receiving loops here--a full size Flag loop pointed toward
New York, a tuned 160m loop and an untuned coax loop for 80-40-30m
The last two loops take turns sitting on my portable base with a small
Radio Shack TV rotator.  During contests I put it in my front yard,
well away from my transmit antennas.  The rest of the time, these
two loops are taken off the base and leaned against my fence inside
my back yard.  Because of their relatively small pickup area, I use
an old Ameco tunable preamp with them.

The full-size Flag loop is suspended between two masts that also hold up
various other antennas.  Its main claim to fame is a cardioid pattern
that gives it a good rejection off the rear.  Since that is where a lot of
my local suburban noise comes from, this is a relatively quiet antenna
for me.  Its primary use is on 160m, but it also works FB on 80, and
even 40 at times.

There is an excellent site for the Flag loop with all kinds of good info at
http://www.angelfire.com/md/k3ky/page37.html

For the rotatable loops, there is also a ton of material on the web.  Just
search for loop antenna and you'll find enough reading tokeep you
busy for a while :-)

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
- Original Message - 
From: Richard Thorne [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 8:53 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Recieve antennas in an Urban area


 Just curious what others are using for receive antennas.  I have a 
 vertical mounted on my rear fence which does a nice job transmitting, 
 but it gets a bit noisy some times.  I use an SGC-239 tuner at the base 
 and it tunes from 10 through 80.
 
 I've looked at the Wellbrook loops and they look interesting 
 http://www.wellbrook.uk.com/products.html#ALA1530  I have a small back 
 yard so the larger K9AY loops are not an option.
 
 The other antenna I've looked at is the DX Engineering active antennas.
 http://www.dxengineering.com/Products.asp?ID=220SecID=79DeptID=12
 
 I could mount either of these antennas on my chimney and use a small 
 rotor to rotate them for directivity.
 
 My current interest is 80/40/30 meters but that will start changing as 
 the new sunspot cycle starts.
 
 So what is the group using for receive antenna's?
 
 Rich - N5ZC
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Purchase - opinions?

2007-04-22 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi John
My only suggestion would be to move the K160RX to Phase 1.
If you plan to work the Stew Perry, you need the 160m band.
Plus it gives you Aux receive port, invaluable on 160 where it
lets you use a quiet receiving loop.  That KAT2 includes 160
already, but the K2 itself has to have the K160RX as well.

If you don't plan on using a computer with the K2 for logging
etc, you could move KI02 to Phase 2.

Of all the options, I'm most impressed by the KAT2.  Darned
hard to find something it won't load.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
- Original Message -
From: John Hoaglun [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 4:20 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Purchase - opinions?


 Hello to the reflector,

 I am getting ready to order my K2 system and wanted to run some ideas
 across the group first.

 1. I am looking to build a K2 for QRP operations like Field Day, FYBO,
 and StewPerry.
 2. The K2 will end up becoming the 28mhz IF for my existing
 transverters once the system is complete. (Historically I am more
 active on VHF/UHF/Microwaves than on HF.)

 With that being said here is the plan that I am thinking about using.
 Phase 1:  K2, KSB2, and KAT2
 Phase 2:  KIO2, K60XV, K160RX

 Does that plan of attack make sense? It will take me a while to find
 the time to get the basic HF rig completed so I don't see any reason
 to order the other kits until the base is complete.

 Thoughts?  Any gotch ya's  that I should be aware of with a plan like
this?

 I would like to place my order this week. :-)

 Thanks, JH

 --
 John Hoaglun
 NG0R EN25

 http://www.hoaglun.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Nifty little power supply: Gamma Research HPS-1a

2007-04-20 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Dick
Do you know if it is a switching supply?  At 1.25 pounds,
I would guess that it probably is.  If so, have you heard any
rf trash from it?
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Dick Dievendorff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Solosko, Robert B (Bob)' [EMAIL PROTECTED];
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 7:48 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Nifty little power supply: Gamma Research HPS-1a


 For W1SRB who's selling his big Astron RS-35A power supply:

 I really like the little Gamma HPS-1a supply.  It'll even power your 100
watt rig on
 CW or SSB.

 http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html

 73 de Dick, K6KR




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Re: [Elecraft] Nifty little power supply: Gamma Research HPS-1a

2007-04-20 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Great, that's what I wanted to hear :-)
Thanks much, Craig.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Craig D. Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:11 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Nifty little power supply: Gamma Research HPS-1a


 Do you know if it is a switching supply?

It is a switching supply, Bob, but with an unusual twist.  It includes an
ultra-capacitor to handle peak load currents.  That is how they can deliver
100W for intermittent duty cycle applications such as CW and SSB.  In steady
state applications such as RTTY it is probably good for perhaps 60 W output.
Output voltage is 13.8 V, which is of course ideal for ham gear.  Check
their web site for more detail.   I have heard absolutely no RF noise even
with it sitting right next to a rig.

73
  ... Craig   AC0DS




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 tuning ability for bad antenna match

2007-04-18 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hello Barry
Since your dipole will be indoors, I would suggest making
it a bit longer, closer to 33 ft.

Run the first 23 feet as you plan, with the feedpoint in the
center.  At the ends, let the extra wire extend down 1 foot.
The bring the remainder back toward the center, keeping
the 1 foot spacing.  Use something like wooden dowels or
plastic rods to keep the folded back sections parallel to the
main part of the dipole.

This will give you a 20m dipole, a 15m 3/4 wave dipole,
and 2 halfwaves in phase on 10m.

If you use 450 ohm window line, or 300 ohm TV twinlead
of good quality, you should be able to tune this on all bands
40m through 10m, including the WARC bands.

You will need the Elecraft BL-2 switchable balun (4:1 or 1:1
ratios) to allow your rig to get the best match.  On some bands,
the 4:1 ratio will allow the KAT100 to match most easily.  On
others, the 1:1 ratio will work better.  Experiment until you
know which settings go with which bands in your setup.
If you have trouble matching on any particular band, adding
a little extra  feedline will change the impedance enough
that the KAT100 will handle it.

I use a set of dual banana plugs, not sure what you call them
on your side of the pond.  This lets me quickly add in a short
extension feedline.  Actually, if this extra length still allows
the KAT100 to match ok on the other bands, just splice it in
and leave it as a permanent part of the feedline.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
 
- Original Message - 
From: barry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 7:54 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT100 tuning ability for bad antenna match


 I live in an upstairs flat (apartment in us!), and have a small loft
 space about 23ft long at the ridge and about the same across. 
 
 Would a KAT100 tuner be able to tune a random length dipole strung along
 the ridge?
 
 If not can you suggest an alternative antenna that would, I am seriously
 limited in my options for aerials as you can see.
 
 Any advice most welcome ... Barry G0MPA
 
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Re: [Elecraft] AF1 and small speaker

2007-04-18 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Dave
Another thing you might try.
I enjoy rummaging in my junkbox for odd inductors
and building passive audio filters.  You could build
one from the contents of your junkbox and include
it in a speaker cabinet with an audio amp.  Then
you would only have one loose item on the desk.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] AF1 and small speaker


 Dave,
 
 If you are considering 'rolling your own', take a look at Tom Hammond's 
 website (particularly  
 http://www.n0ss.net/tda2003v_5w-7w_af_amp_v7.pdf)for an audio amplifier. 
   I use one of these with my K2 and drive a 9 ohm speaker and have good 
 results with it.  I don't know about using the KAF2 directly at the amp 
 input, you may have some impedance matching to contend with, but it 
 should be 'do-able'.
 
 Fair to Good quality computer speakers work well too.  Some of the 
 really cheap ones I have tried have too much hum for my tastes, but 
 other are fine.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 
 David Wilburn wrote:
  I was considering getting an AF1 and using it, along with the K2 to 
  drive a small speaker here.  Possibly figure out a setup where I could 
  integrate the two into an enclosure, like on the Elecraft Tech Notes 
  page.  Has anyone played with this setup?  I only found a couple of 
  comments in the archives.
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RE: [Elecraft] OT: 50 years

2006-10-31 Thread Robert Tellefsen
I've heard that the QCWA (Quarter Century Wireless Ass'n) has,
or at least had, a complete set of the old Call Books.  It would
at least localize one to a particular time period, if not an
exact date.
If you find a better answer, please post it for us.
Good luck and 73,
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7:40 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 50 years


Congrats to everybody who has achieved 50 years in Ham Radio. I am a bit
short of that here.

In reading this thread I wondered if I could find out what source would
contain the date a ham was first licensed ? I admit I do not know when I got
my
first ticket but it was 4 calls and 6 moves ago. HI ! Somewhere back in the
early sixties, I believe.

Any help on this would be appreciated.

73
Al
W4ABW
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RE: [Elecraft] Signal generator question

2006-10-27 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hello J-F
I would not recommend this generator, as it
really isn't intended for your expected use.

It is a function generator, meaning it produces
sine waves, square waves, triangular waves,
and so on, but it only goes up to 3 MHz.

You want a regular rf signal generator, which
will usually produce a signal from below the
AM broadcast band to over 30 MHz.  Some will
even go up into VHF frequencies.

Good luck in your search for a generator.
73, Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jean-François
Ménard
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 6:32 PM
To: Elecraft Mailing List
Subject: [Elecraft] Signal generator question


Hi,

I would like to learn and explore more «signal tracing» procedure and
technique. I actually have a Fluke 196C. But I don't have a signal
generator.

A friend of mine have his signal generator for sale. The model is an
Instek GFG-8216A. I would like to know if the device will be good for
signal tracing or the specification of this device is not enough for
this purpose??? I know that I could build the one in the K2 building
manual or at least use the technique «Cheap'n Dirty» from N0SS... but
that's not my point ;-)

The specification can be viewed at
http://www.instek.com/pdf/Generator/GFG-8216A8215A.pdf

Thanks for all your advice.

Best 73

J-F VA2VYZ

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RE: [Elecraft] BL2 Question

2006-10-22 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi David
Yes, the BL2 will do a fine job for you.
I use one here with my multiband 40m dipole.
Being able to switch between 1:1 and 4:1
ratios is very handy.  One band will load
best with the 1:1 setting, while another
band will load better with the 4:1 setting.

Very useful tool.  You won't regret it.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Dietrich
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:50 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] BL2 Question


Howdy Everyone,

I am seriously considering the purchase  construction of a BL2 switched
balun so I can construct
a lighter dipole antenna for field use than the dipole I have been using
with my K1-4 (#2051).  I
am planning on taking the K1 down to TX over Christmas and I don't want to
take the heavier dipole
I have with me like I did this past summer.  It's rather bulky and takes up
valuable suitcase
space.

Here is my plan: Construct a 20 and/or 40 meter 1/2 wave dipole and feed it
using standard TV
twin-lead as my feedline (found in any hardware/home improvement store), and
some #18 wire (I have
some on hand).  Since the antenna would be balanced, I would attach the
twin-lead to the balun and
the balun to the back of my K1.  I am thinking that this design would make
for a good performing,
lightweight antenna that will be easier to pack  set up.

Questions:
1.  Will the BL2 work well with TV twin-lead antenna I am going to build?
There's no sense in
buying it if it won't work with this antenna.

2.  What kind of luck have those of you who have built it had with fitting
it into some sort of
plastic or metal enclosure?  What works and what won't?

3.  Will I need to do any sort of grounding with this?

I'd really like responses from those who either (A) own one OR (B) do a lot
of antenna homebrewing
 experimentation.

Many thanks,

David
KC9EHQ
K1-4 #2051

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RE: [Elecraft] Slightly cracked ferrite core in BL2 kit

2006-10-12 Thread Robert Tellefsen
On a corner like that, absolutely a non-issue.
Go ahead and build and enjoy.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of michael taylor
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 6:45 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Slightly cracked ferrite core in BL2 kit


I just received my AT1 and BL2 mini-module kits today and one of the
binocular cores from the BL2 balun has a corner cracked from the
shipping process, I mean abuse.

Should I get it replaced or is it a non-issue?

Photo of the slightly cracked ferrite core:
http://shurl.org/qWttl

-Michael, VE3TIX
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RE: [Elecraft] 10 meters

2006-06-01 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Ron
For cw tune 28000 to 28100.

For ssb tune 28300 up to perhaps
29000.When activity is thin, I 
expect you will find what there is
below 28700.

There are many cw beacon stations
on 10m.  Mostly between about 28170 and
28210.  They can give you a good idea
of whether there is an opening to 
somewhere.

For a list of beacon stations, see
http://www.ten-ten.org/beacons.html

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of ron
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 8:43 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] 10 meters


There must be many of you on this reflectah who must know:

where does one listen for activity CW or SSB on this wide, vast band 
  called 10 meters?

Ron, wb1hga
finally wahmin' up heah in MA.

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 DSP vs. Audio Filter

2006-06-01 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hello John
I have both the KDSP2 and the KAF2 filters.
I only use the DSP filter anymore.

The DSP filter makes a good supplement to
the basic crystal filter.  Set up the crystal
filter first, using Spectrogram.  Then turn
on the DSP filter at comparable bandwidths
and adjust the crystal filter/DSP filter
combo for the best overall cw passband.  Works
very well indeed.

The noise reduction ability depends somewhat
on the bandwidth of the crystal filter before
the DSP.  With too narrow a filter the noise
is less readily reduced, but it can be reduced
to some degree.  At wider bandwidths, the DSP
NR is more effective.  The NR would be readily
apparent in ssb service, as there the BW is a
couple of kHz or more.  The digital sound
from the DSP depends on how aggressive you have
set the DSP.

DSP NR complements the regular noise blanker, and
is less effective on the kinds of noise sources
where the blanker shines.  Together, they do a
decent job of reducing noise overall.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Lyon
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 10:11 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 DSP vs. Audio Filter


I am considering these two filters for a K2 that I'm about to buy. I'm
mainly a cw guy.

I've had experience with audio filters, but not DSP. Actually now that I
think about it, my TS-570DG has an audio DSP filter of sorts. I strongly
dislike the audio coming out of it as harsh and grainy.

I've listened to the demos for ssb and cw on the Elecraft site for the DSP
filter. The noise reduction is dramatic, but the audio sounds, well,
digital. If the K2 is as quiet a receiver as I've read, does the DSP trash
up the received audio? And how does it do with power line noise?

I would be interested in anyone's comments and impressions of these two
filters in real world operating situations, even though they are apples
and oranges. Is DSP worth three times the money in your opinion, and why?

John  W9LHG  K1 #2174

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RE: [Elecraft] Wha'ts Wrong With Our Radios (WAS:NewProducts, Building Demo, ...

2006-05-29 Thread Robert Tellefsen
I'm getting a chuckle out of this thread.
There have been some really good ideas surfaced that deserve
serious consideration.
My take is that we are amateur radio OPERATORS, that is, we
operate radios, not necessarily computers.  Personally I
enjoy hands-on control of my K2, although I admit to using
TR LOG for some functions while contesting.  The line between
hands-on control and computer control is starting to gray here.
Keep the ideas coming.  I'm enjoying reading them.
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 7:47 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Wha'ts Wrong With Our Radios
(WAS:NewProducts,Building Demo, ...


Bill wrote:

So, this begs this question -- what's the right aspect ratios for a
desktop rig?

--

And that brings us full-circle to where I started this thread long ago (I
notice that all one has to do to make a thread live forever is to misspell a
word in the subject).

Form follows function. I was talking about a radio with real controls
sized for a human being with normal hands. A secondary issue for me is that
it doesn't have a lot of multi-purpose controls (buttons that have to be
pressed quickly or slowly, knobs that do two or three different things
depending upon something else, etc.) So in a rig with what most operators
consider the basic necessities, that's a number of controls. Probably at
least as many as the K2 now has, and  maybe half again more.

So we start with a panel big enough for knobs sized for comfortable
operation spaced adequately. We end up with something perhaps 10 X 18
inches. Now we build the radio behind it. A transceiver like the K2/100
probably wouldn't require more than an inch or two deep covering an area
that large. Put everything on one huge PC board so all the parts are easily
accessible for service and general poking around. Now to put in in a good
position for human operation. Hold it up at about a 50 to 80 degree angle to
the desk. Use a foot at the bottom not unlike flat panel displays. Put the
power/antenna/key/mic/computer/etc connectors in the foot so the cables run
directly off the desk.

Others brought up the idea of an SDR. That's a new game. Now it's just like
the power supply, a box under the table. That wasn't what I had in mind
though since I have no interest in computer control. Indeed, I'd rather
avoid the whole complexity of too much digital to analog conversion and vice
versa. I'd rather have knobs that moved wipers on pots and capacitors as
needed for most things, Hi!

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] What size DC Power Plug for K1

2006-05-24 Thread Robert Tellefsen
The K1 is small enough you can take it to the
store to try them both.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of JT Croteau
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 2:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] What size DC Power Plug for K1


My K1 did not come with the original DC Power Plug.  I see in the
parts list that J4 is 2.1mm in size.  The local Radio Shack has two
with an ID of 2.1mm - one they call a Size M and the other is a Size
K.

Anyone have a clue as to which would be the better gamble to try so I
don't have to buy both?

Thanks

72 de JT, W6FO
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[Elecraft] KIO2 commands for KDSP2

2006-05-20 Thread Robert Tellefsen

I've been playing with programming TRLOG and my K2 to work together.
I have several functions working well from my keyboard, but I'm
looking for info on commands for the KDSP2.
The current version of the KIO2 Programmers Guide only covers the
KAF2 audio filter, with no info on the KDSP2.  Does anyone know
what commands are available for the KDSP2?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
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RE: [Elecraft] re: K2 vs. the world

2006-05-20 Thread Robert Tellefsen
  Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 put into service this afternoon
  (should be on the air by Monday.)
Way cool, Phil.  Hope to hear you on with it.
73, Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Phil Kane
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 8:25 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] re: K2 vs. the world


  I guess it's my time to list ham gear in the past, not
  including several VHF/UHF non-ham-band receivers and scanners
  or the commercial Collins and Watkins-Johnson gear at work:

1-tube (6SN7GT) regenerative (ham band) receiver (Boy Scout project)
Pre-WW-II Zenith AM/SW console (SWL) receiver
Hallicrafters S20R Receiver
ARC-5 80m CW transmitter
National HRO HF Receiver
SCR-522 VHF AM transceiver
Gonset Communicator 2m AM receiver
Tecraft 2m AM tranmitter
Hallicrafter SX-101 receiver w/2m AM converter
Hallicrafter HT-44 HF transmitter
SBE144 2m FM transceiver
ICOM IC-230 2m FM transceiver
 *  ICOM IC-228H 2m transceiver
 *  Kenwood R5000 HF Receiver
 *  ICOM R-7000 VHF/UHF Receiver
 *  ICOM IC-2710 2m/440 MHztransceiver
ICOM IC-02AT 2m transceiver
Azden PCS4000 2m transceivcer
 *  Alinco DR-1200 2m transceiver
 *  Motorola Micor 440 MHz transceiver
 *  Ten-Tec RX320D HF Receiver
 *  ICOM IC-2100H 2m transceiver
 *  ICON IC-207H 2m/440 MHz transceiver
 *  ICOM IC-2720H 2m/440 MHz transceiver

  ( * = in service or stored serviceable)

  And last but certainly not least.

  Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 put into service this afternoon
  (should be on the air by Monday.)

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane



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[Elecraft] KIO2 Programmers's Reference manual

2006-05-12 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Is there anyone out there who has had experience programming
functions from a logging program to the KIO2/K2?

I want to set up some instructions under an F key in TR LOG,
and I'd like to talk with someone who has done such things.

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
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RE: [Elecraft] Voltmeter lost after converting XC control board tosupport KIO2

2006-04-30 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Ron
Check the position of the slide switch.
It gets moved sometimes and the voltmeter
disappears.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ron Hahn EI2JP
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 7:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Voltmeter lost after converting XC control board
tosupport KIO2


Lads,

I have one of the field test K2s (SN 79, current 2.04 firmware) that  
I've recently added a KIO2 board to.  To do this I needed to perform  
the mods for the XC control board to make it compatible with the KIO  
2 (which I have done).  This included cutting one trace to the MCU  
pin 25, adding two new jumpers and a .001 cap.

After performing the mod (and checking my work twice) I installed the  
KIO2 according to the instructions.  Changed the sidetone, checked  
the voltages, and even ran the test sequence with Hyper-terminal.   
All worked OK.  Radio works fine with TRX manager, which is also good.

My problem is that I have now lost the voltmeter, although the  
ammeter works.  So, consequently, I get LO BATT reminders every so  
often and the volts/current display shows 0.00V 0.3A.  !

Every other aspect of the radio seems to work EXCEPT the voltmeter.   
I checked for shorts, bridges, etc.. and could not find any.

Can anyone steer me in the right direction as I'm now at  a loss as  
to what I could have done to break this feature.

K2, Sn 0079, Firmware 2.04, XC control board
K160RX
KAT2
KBT2
KDSP2
KIO2
KSB2

Thanks for the help.

Ron EI2JP

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RE: [Elecraft] K2, Freq readout

2006-04-30 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Carel
If you listen to WWV, or some other equally accurate signal, with
no modulation, just pure carrier, you should be right on 10.000 IF
you are zero beat with your SPOT tone in CW, or are zero beat in
SSB mode.  It is easiest to check for zero beat in ssb by switching
back and forth between LSB and USB until both sound the same when
there is AM modulation on the signal.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of pc5m, Carel
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 9:01 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2, Freq readout


Struggling to get the freq readout of my k2 correct (using various methods
as described on w3fpr's website).

 

Now I am doubting everything (including myself..) so, but to be sure..

 

What should the readout on the K2 displaying, If I had a carrier at 10.000
MHz and tune it in CW, USB and LSB to have it at 600 Hz tone (equal to my
spot tone) ?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Carel.

 

 

 

 

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RE: [Elecraft] Computer control issues - unreliable firmware?

2006-03-30 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Rich
I suppose it depends on what you are trying to do.
Here I use TR LOG with my K2, and will shortly (as soon as I
get a new(er) desktop computer) be going to SO2R with two
K2s.  TR will handle them just fine.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 6:04 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Computer control issues - unreliable firmware?


I recently completed my K2.  I assume that it has the very latest firmware.  
Although it works fine with k2Remote, it doesn't work reliably with any 
third-party software that I've tried.   I've tried the latest version of dxLab 
commander, HamRadioDelux, and even purchased HamStationExtreme.  Comander won't 
even connect with the K2.  HRD keeps stalling when updating the frequency 
display.  The current release of HSE doesn't appear to work.  I'm waiting for 
an update.

As far as I can tell from research I've been able to do, there are firmware 
problems in the K2 that make the interface unreliable.  Elecraft says they 
don't have any room in their program space to add any flow control.  Does 
anyone have any information about this problem or comments about other control 
software?

Regards
Rich - KE1EV
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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas

2006-03-24 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Dick
Don't let just a single tree in a campsite hold you back.
Use it and have fun.  Drooping dipoles work just fine.

When the xyl and I were camping in Oregon, there were only some
rose bushes by our campsite and no trees.  So I laid out my
40m dipole over the bushes, about 4 ft above ground, fired
up my old HW-8 and had a number of nice QSOs.  Great time,
sitting at the picnic table with my lantern and a 12v lantern
battery for the HW-8.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
Richard Powers
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 8:09 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1-20 - - Now Camping - Antennas


Wow, What a support Group  Thanks to all the oldsters out there who
responded to my cataract problem (surgery went well yesterday by the way).

  Now my next question is what kind of antennas to use (mostly for 20
meters) when out camping. Here in Northeastern Illinois, most campsites have
only one tree to hang a dipole on which would leave the ends to droop to the
ground etc.
  What do most of you guys use when camping?

  Next question in line will be Power Supplies for the K1.

  Dick Powers WB9PWQ / AFA3DP
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RE: [Elecraft] How much is the DMM used during K2 build?

2006-03-18 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Keith
There are some blue resistors that sometimes need an ohmmeter
check to verify their values.  Seems the color bands on a 
blue background can sometimes be hard to read.  I checked every
one as I went to be sure I had the correct value.

It is most useful during debug, as you guessed.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Darwin, Keith
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2006 12:12 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] How much is the DMM used during K2 build?


Hey guys, here's the next (of many) questions.
 
How heavily used is the DMM during K2 building?  I just finished my
first two mini-modules and used the DMM only a little - for resistance
checks.  I've scanned through the K2 manual and it looks like a DMM is
used here  there for resistance checks and then for some VDC checks
during alignment.  Is that about right?
 
I suppose it will get used more during debug if there are issues.
 
I believe tomorrow is the day I start the K2 building process.  The
static mat is all ready to go, static strap is ready, magnifying lamp is
in place, solder  WTCPT, tools - yep, it's all there.
 
Fun fun fun!
 
- Keith KD1E -
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Dual Recieve Plans - Comments Wanted

2006-03-15 Thread Robert Tellefsen
John
I will be using a pair of K2's in a QRP SO2R configuration, very similar to
what
you propose.
One point on muting the Rx only K2.  I've seen a lot of posts trying to
figure
oput a way to do this, but don't recall seeing any clean approaches.  Your
idea of using the key jack is very clean.  Just remember to put the K2 in
TEST mode so you don't key the TX, and turn the sidetone down to zero so you
don't have to listen to it.

I use TR LOG here, and it has a key command to swap the frequency between
the
rigs in use, so that's how I will operate.  One rig with all the antennas,
and
one with just a receive antenna.  I will be building a bunch of bandpass
filters
to keep the TX out of the search RX.  You can either buy your filters, or
try to build them.  I'll be using the filters in the July/Aug 1999 QEX
article
by Ed Wetherhold, W3NQN, titled Receiver Band-Pass Filters Having Maximum
Attenuation in Adjacent Bands.  These filters look to be very straight
forward,
so I'm confident I can build them.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Huffman
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 3:19 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Dual Recieve Plans - Comments Wanted


I would appreciate comments on my plans to use my K2 for dual receive.

I'd like to use my K2 with my Ten-Tec Pegasus in a dual receive setup.  I
would
listen with either the K2, the Pegasus, or both.  I would transmit with the
Pegasus.

I can use N4PY software to have the Pegasus track to the frequency set by
the
K2.

For antenna switching I would modify the Pegasus to have an AUX receiver
output
at the spare jack on the back of the Pegasus.  Instructions are in the
N4PY
documentation.  The instructions state that This jack is fully protected
from
high transmit power when transmitting.  For K2 input I would build the
K160M
module to add a second receive port to the K2 and would use that port as
input
for the AUX receiver output from the Pegasus.

My concerns are how to protect the K2 from getting the front end blown up by
the
Pegasus and how to mute the K2.

I plan on hooking a dummy load to the regular K2 antenna input.  I would do
the
Simple K2 RX mod handles extremely strong on-frequency signals from the
web
site which puts diodes across the IF amp.

For muting the K2 I can use the Pegasus EXT T/R jack which is an open
collector
transistor switch rated at up to 24v and 200ma.  The delay is adjustable.
But,
I'm stuck as to how to take that switch and mute the K2.

I could connect the switch to a relay across the headphones.

I could use that switch to trigger the key input of the K2 to switch the
K2's
internal TR switch.

Neither seems like the right solution.

Advice greatly appreciated.

73 de NA8M
John

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RE: [Elecraft] Band data

2006-03-14 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Jack
Is there some way to decode band segment info with KRC2?
I don't recall seeing anything about that when I built mine.
Does it take some additional utility software to set this
up, assuming it's even possible.  Boy, that would sure be handy.
73, Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jack Brindle
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 10:11 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Band data


I can answer that. By far the best way to get band data is to decode  
the frequency returned by an IF; serial command. Having the frequency  
allows you quite a bit of freedom in what you do with it, especially  
since you can create sub bands or segments within each band. This  
could be useful in determining if you are at the low or high end of a  
band or even outside a band.

It is also FAR, FAR easier to decode than the AuxBus information...

Now, having said all this, probably the easiest way to deal with it  
it to use a KRC2, which decodes either AuxBus or serial band data for  
you. You just tap into the various drivers (or the BCD output  
terminals) and use the information directly.

On Mar 14, 2006, at 9:55 AM, Jim Chick wrote:

 Is it possible to access K2 band data information in order to make  
 it available in some format to control external devices?. Thanks  
 for any help.
 Jim G4NWJ
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- Jack Brindle, W6FB
 
-


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[Elecraft] N6WG EQP score

2006-03-12 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Station: N6WG
 Qs   S/P/C
20m  2517
40m  11 6
 ----
Tot. 3623

Score: 36 x 23 x 7 (5w) = 28,980

Rig:  K2 s/n 12
Ant:  40m dipole on 20 and 40.

Really crummy condx.  Seemed to be a high QRN
level all day.  Skipped the evening session
altogether.  No sigs heard at all on 15m.

Hope for better condx next time around.
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

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RE: [Elecraft] Unused back panel holes

2006-02-25 Thread Robert Tellefsen
David
Why not plug them with appropriate connectors.
Seeing those idle connectors just sitting there
might give you some ideas for a useful mod :-)
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Douglass
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 2:38 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unused back panel holes


Hi All,

Regarding the unused holes on the K2 back-panel.. I've been thinking about
plugging these with rubber plugs, as I think the holes/green tape looks a
little unsightly. I wonder if anyone has done this, and whether anyone knows
a source of plugs that are suitable and the correct size.

I'm specifically looking for the plugs for the 2 sets of XVTR holes, as all
the rest are soon to be filled in with accessories..

Cheers

David, Vk2NU


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 RECEIVER: WHERE ARE THE SIGNALS?

2006-02-25 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hola Manuel
A suggestion.  Place a dot of white paint on one
end of each plug-in rework eliminator and a matching
dot on the same end of the receptacle that it plugs
in to.  This will ensure that you always plug them in
the correct way.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Manuel Wilches
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 4:02 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 RECEIVER: WHERE ARE THE SIGNALS?


Gentlemen: the signals are here!

I had my 160 plug-in Rework Eliminator plugged-in backwards... (my apologies
to Gary and Ken!) I had looked at all headers so many times and it never
looked wrong to me until Don wrote the word position in his message. The
good part is, indeed these Rework Eliminators do their job. Now I can go
ahead and install all options with no fear.

Thank you very much indeed Don, Bob, Jim and José for your words of wisdom
and guidance.
I woke up this morning, saw your messages, went to the radio, change de the
Header's position and my faithful GP gave me a lot of signals, and strong
ones too, immediately. What a relief!

Because of the header's position shall I do the whole calibration/alignment
step-by-step  (page 60 to page 64) procedure of PART II all over again? I am
also concerned about final adjustments of L34 and L1+L2 as I have to rely on
regular noise to do that. No signal generator here. The 7000 khz weak
internally-generated signal is there.

By the way: my good old childhood friend, José - CT1AOZ, knows my
inabilities to deal with components and soldering irons since we were high
school kids and he has been very worried about me hi hi
Relax Zé...the K2 is coming on with a little help from my friends...Be proud
old chap.

73
Manuel
LU5OM
CT4IK
- Original Message -
From: J ALBU [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Manuel Wilches [EMAIL PROTECTED];
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 4:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 RECEIVER: WHERE ARE THE SIGNALS?


 Hi Manuel

 Look and re-look for an
 incorrectly placed component (or a component with improper orientation)
 this is the most common problem
 Now in Portuguese...
 Ve os componentes pois o mais frequente é teres trocado a posição
 (transistors o contrário ou os diodos).

 Good luck Manel I'm very proud with you my good friend
 GOD bless you

 73 de Jose CT1AOZ


 - Original Message -
 From: Manuel Wilches [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 3:01 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K2 RECEIVER: WHERE ARE THE SIGNALS?


 Greetings from Argentina.
 I am building K2 # 5310
 I have purchased all Rework Eliminators (they were a breeze to install,
 by the way and are very neat indeed!) and I have all K2 options except 60
 meters, i.e. 160mtrs - DSP - NB - K2/100 - SSB.

 I have completed part II of the RF board and the Alignment and Test,
 Part II. All values tested, calibrations, voltage measurements etc. were
 within the specs indicated in the K2 manual. During assembly of the FP
 and CB all tests required were also on target. I have built and used the
 Frq. probe, the RF probe and the N0SS probe. I do not have a signal
 generator or any other instrumentation. I have a DMM. All my Rework
 Eliminators are plugged in.

 The problem: the receiver has full noise (as though it worked ok) but
 when I connect an antenna (40 meters GP) I do not hear any signals. I
 heard a CP4 perhaps RST 519. Extremely weak.

 I tried N0SS's probe and I pick up a strong signal through all test
 points up to C225. I have no signal pick up there nor at C226 or C227. I
 did not check W6 and W1 because I did not install those jumpers (I
 followed the Rework Eliminators instructions that call for other steps).
 I do not know if there is an alternative test point for those. I have
 been through the usual checks for bad solders etc.

 I have used the proper solder and a controlled temp soldering station.

 I would very much appreciate your assistance and guidance. I have had the
 K2 on for hours now (playing with the keyer) and there has been no
 change. It looks great, that is for sure!

 Thank you very much
 73

 Manuel
 LU5OM
 CT4IK
 K2 # 5310
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RE: [Elecraft] folded dipole antenna

2006-02-20 Thread Robert Tellefsen
I'd like to tailgate Rick's comment.
I use a 60 ft dipole made of 450 ohm window line with the conductors
shorted together at each side of the feed point and at the outer ends.
The idea is to create a fat dipole, compared to a single wire.

I feed it with 450 ohm window line and a matching network in the shack
for the bands I use it with.  On 20m, it acts as nearly two half waves
in phase, very good on 20m.  It tunes well on 40m as you would expect.
On 80m, the 2:1 swr bandwidth is only 100 kHz, but adequate for my
contesting activities.

I modelled the antenna with EZNEC, and just the plain dipole with tuned
feeders has more gain (less loss ?) than the same dipole with loading
coils to give a resonant feed on one band.  Plus, with the tuned feeders,
it is a three band antenna.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Frederick Dwight
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:55 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] folded dipole antenna


Joe,
Sounds like you have a winner for an antenna.  However the antenna you
describe is NOT a folded dipole.  It would be a folded dipole if you did not
cut out the section of open wire line opposite your feedline connection.
Without the section cut out your antenna would be resonant on 40 meters and
would be a great performer on 40 meters, but I have no idea how it would
work on other bands.  Your antenna  is a LINEAR LOADED DIPOLE which will be
resonant around 5 or 6 MHZ.  It should load well on 40 and 80 for sure since
it will be resonant around 5 to 6 MHZ.  The losses on linear loaded antennas
can be very small, so on 80 meters I suspect it will perform nearly as well
as a full size dipole, perhaps within a db or so.  If you could reach the
center of the dipole and jumper the cut out section, possibly, but not for
sure, you might have slightly better performance on 40 meters operating in
the folded dipole mode.  You could set up a field strength meter with a
horizontal antenna several hundred feet away and do comparison
readings...the Z would be very different so you would need to re tune.
   Some limited space folks take your good idea one step further and make
a 3 wire (or more) linear loaded antenna element.  Your dipole might only be
around 50 feet in length if made with 3 wires.  However, there is no such
thing as a free lunch.  Shorter antennas have less gain.  My personal rule
of thumb is that a well designed antenna can be shortened up to
APPROXIMATELY 50% with only minor loss of gain, but further shortening
usually results in rapidly decreasing performance.  Shorter antennas do
suffer from greatly decreased bandwidth, however if you you use a tuner that
should not be a significant factor.
I know many ELECRAFTERS will take exception to my 50% rule of thumb,
however non technical folks might find it a useful tool.  At least be VERY
suspicious of very short antennas that claim great results. Likewise
antennas that are AT LEAST half size MIGHT come close in performance to a
full size antenna.  The 25 ft wire most of use on our KX1's with fantastic
results is a short antenna on 40 meters, but still is very acceptable
compromize since it is about 75% the size of a full lenght quarter wave
antenna and also is an easy match for the tuner.  I believe my 50% rule is
OK for most simple antennas.  A yagi would need to be much larger than 50%
size for acceptable performance.
I find it is very interesting to model antennas with an antenna modeling
program.  Many hams use either the EZNEC or Nittany Scientific NEC-Win Plus+
programs.
Either of these NEC 2 core programs do a very acceptable job of modeling
most, but not all, of the antennas hams typically use.  ARRL offers an
Antenna Modeling on line course, or you can buy the ARRL course textbook and
work through it yourself.  You do not need to be an engineer or scientist to
use these courses, however you should have a good grasp of algebra and
perhaps trig and AT LEAST 100 hours of time to complete the course.
RickKL7CW Palmer, Alaska
KX1 # 798

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Relay contact resistance

2006-02-12 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Stewart
I have K2 s/n 12 in pretty constant use here, particularly in contests.
So far as I can tell, I have no problem with the relays, either in the
basic K2 or in the KAT2.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
Teh Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Stewart Baker
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 4:24 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Relay contact resistance


Having decided to join the melee trying to work 3Y0X on Peter One Island, I
dusted off my FT1000MP. The only time that I use it are on occasions such as
this when a separate receiver is useful when working split.

I noticed that the receive sensitivity was varying on 20  40m, and traced
this
to the HPF board at the front of the receiver. This board contains 8
miniature
relays which do the filter switching. If I tapped the board the received
signal
strength varied. From notes I found on the web this is a known problem where
the
solution is to change all 8 relays. I didn't fancy changing these small
relays
if there was a better solution.

I remembered that the FT102 had big problems with people were changing
relays by
the bucket full. Yaesu don't seemed to have learned the lesson of the FT102
!
A local amateur came up with a fix which consisted of running a small DC
current
through the contacts to break down any oxide layer that had formed over
time.

This morning I modified the HPF board to run about 1mA through the contacts.
10 resistors and 2 caps later - End of problem - Fixed

The big relays in the KAT100 should not have a problem, but what about the
smaller ones in the K2, KAT2 ? As far a I can tell a number of these have
only
very small AC signals passing through them. None have any DC current flow.

It took about 7 years before the problem surfaced with my FT1000MP, I would
be
interested in comments on whether in the same time scale I might expect to
get
similar problems with my Elecraft gear.

73
Stewart G3RXQ
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RE: [Elecraft] KAF2 or KDSP2

2006-02-02 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Joe
I have both the KAF2 and KDSP2.  I prefer the DSP
because the filter skirts are steeper, and I can
get some Noise Reduction with it.  Not available
with the analog KAF2.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Joseph Reed
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 6:53 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KAF2 or KDSP2


Hi All,

  The build of 5226 continues and I have a question best answered by the
serious cw dxers in the group.  Which is the better audio filter for cw?  AF
dsp on ssb has left me at best luke warm.  And I don't do that much ssb
dxing if I can help it.  So don't consider ssb in the answer.  Just CW.

  As serious CW ops, which works better the KDSP2 or the KAF2?   Both for
the quick contact and for sustained listening.

  Thanks in advance,

  Joe N9JR
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RE: [Elecraft] Noise Blanker 60m option for K2

2006-01-20 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Ah, but it has two toroids!  Doesn't that make it worth while? :-)
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Statiopn with attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Craig Miller
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 7:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Noise Blanker  60m option for K2


I just finished building and installing the KNB2 andK60XV option boards.  As
usual with Elecraft it all went together FB and runs as advertised with no
problems.  I do have two complaints, however.

1. The K60XV has no toroids!  What kind of Elecraft kit is it with no
toroids to wind?  Where's the fun in that?

2. For 120 bucks or so you only get two to three evenings of building fun.
And that's stretching it, going as slowly as I could.  Now what do I build?
The only option left is the 160m board and that doesn't look like it would
take very long to build.

Help.

Craig
K3OOL
K2 #4790 KSB2, KDSP2, KAF2, KNB2, KX60V, KPA100, KAT100, KAT2, UnPCB's

I guess a KX1 is next.
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RE: [Elecraft] KRC2 users?

2006-01-15 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Tom
My KRC2 is in constant use in my shack with my K2.
I have a homebuilt box that does antenna switching
and switches the antenna matching networks as well.
I use tuned feeders on all bands except 160, so each
band has to be matched separately.  The KRC2 controls
it all very well.

I've not needed the utility to reprogram anything, so
no info there.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Althoff
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 2:53 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KRC2 users?


I don't think I've seen any comments regarding the KRC2.

Ever since my K2/100 booted my Orion out of the shack I have been using my
Array Solutions Rat Pak auto-antenna-switch in manual mode.

The KRC2 would put me back in auto-antenna mode again.

If I connect the KRC2 to my K2 I assume I can control the K2 from PC
software transparantly from any software package that controls the K2 now.
Correct?

What would the disadvantage be if I wired the KRC2 for serial control (K2
and Kenwood) vs. Aux Bus mode (K2 only)?

Has the KRC2 config utility been released yet?

thanks!

Tom K2TA
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RE: [Elecraft] QRP viability during solar cycle min?

2006-01-11 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Keith
I run only wire antennas here with my 5w K2.
Plus a 50 ft vertical on 160m.  With the K2
at 5w, I have 160m QRP WAS, so you can have
a lot of fun with 5w on the low bands.

You do have to be a bit creative with your
antennas to wring out the last drop of performance
from them, but to me, that's part of the fun of
ham radio.  A good radio helps, too.  For contesting,
I would stick with the K2 over the K1.  More
features to work with, and access to all bands.

I work all the contests, and throw my 5w in there
among the big boys.  Fun is where you find it.
Get out there and stir something up.

73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Darwin, Keith
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:20 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] QRP viability during solar cycle min?


K1 or K2.  Hmmm, the debate continues.  But wait, we're approaching a
sunspot min.  My antennas are pretty limited.  I have a 28 foot vertical
(fed with a tuner near the base) for 40 thru 15 and a dipole at 25 feet
but that is about it.  No towers, no high wires, no yagis.
 
How limiting will 5 or 10 watts (even with that Elecraft Mojo) be under
current conditions?  Are we entering into conditions where QRP with
simple antennas will become rather frustrating?  Is it K2/100 time?
 
- Keith KD1E -
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RE: [Elecraft] Darn Dogs

2005-12-30 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Joe
Sorry to hear about your dog QRM there.

I'm just getting started assembling #5225, with the front panel assembly now
done.

Last unit I built was #12!.  I'm going to be watching to see what changes
have
taken place in the K2 since my first one.

It certainly sounds like you need a new optical encoder.  Perhaps Elecraft
has a
way you can test it before deciding you have to order a new one.

Good luck.  Hope to hear ytou on the air before long.

73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Atttitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Joseph Reed
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 4:17 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Darn Dogs


  Folks,

  A moment of your time please.  My rotten Terriers made a mad dash for the
window when my wife came home.  I had K2 #5226 on a TV tray so I could do a
Spectragram alignment of the filters.

  Dog 1, or it may have been a combination of Dog1 and Dog X, but they took
the radio off the table.  Result, optical encoder trashed.  When you turn
the radio on you see ELE and nothing else.  Any idea why it doesn't go
further?

  At least 5226 drew first blood today when I completed the 30m alignment
and worked 4U60UN.  Mojo still exists.

  Regards,
  Joe N9JR

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RE: [Elecraft] Clever antenna tuning ideas wanted

2005-12-07 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Vic
Here's an idea that I haven't seen anyone else use, but it might just do the
trick for you.

Lower your vertical and connect a 33 ft piece of good wire at the top.  Put
a good
egg insulator at the free end of the wire and attach a long nylon string.
When you want to work 80m, draw the wire away from the vertical until it is
as
horizontal as possible.  When you want to work 40 or 30m, lower the wire so
it
is right up against the vertical.  This will cancel the effect of the wire,
making it as if it wasn't there.  As a belt and suspenders approach, you
could
even put an alligator clip at the end of the wire and clip it to the bottom
of the
vertical when the wire is down.

You will have to improve the radial system for 80m.  At least get some
radials
that are full size for 40m.  These don't have to be run straight, either.

Remember the function of the radials, to collect the current radiated by the
vertical and return it to the feed point.  Resonant lengths collect more
current
because they are longer and intercept more current.

A second function of the radial system is to mask the lossy ground below the
radial system, thus giving the return current the lowest loss return path
possible.  You can do a lot to improve your setup, just by working on the
radial system.  You will not be adding gain, but you will be reducing
losses,
which will have the same effect on your signal.

Hope this gives you some ideas, Vic.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Vic K2VCO
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 1:20 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Clever antenna tuning ideas wanted


OK, here is what I want to do:

I have a 33' (10m) vertical with the base about 10' (3.3m) above ground.
  It has four 8' (2.4m) radials which are connected to the feedpoint
through a coil which resonates the system on 7 MHz.  It works as well or
better than any vertical that I've used on 40m -- low SWR and good
results.  It's fed through a relatively short (20', 6m) length of RG-213.

I would like to use it on 80m and 30m as well.  My first try was to
simply use the KAT100 to tune it.  It tunes fine on both bands (1:1 at
the rig), but results are fair-to-poor on 30 and poor-to-worthless on 80.

On 30m, the coax losses are reasonable (the SWR on the coax is about 8
to 1, but it's very short).  I suspect the problem is that the radial
ground system is very poor on this band (on the other hand, the long
vertical radiator should provide a slight amount of gain).  So I may try
paralleling a set of radials tuned for 30m.  They will also be short,
but resonated with a coil or stub.  Does this sound like a good
analysis/solution?

On 80m, it's more complicated.  The ground system is terrible, the
radiation resistance of the vertical very low, and the SWR and losses on
the coax very high.  No wonder it's a dummy load!  I guess the way to
deal with it is to add more tuned radials in parallel and a switchable
base network, but I would like to avoid any more control wires that have
to go through my lightning suppression panel (I can't pass DC through
the coax, either).  Does anyone have any suggestions?

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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RE: [Elecraft] Ready to start, but one question...

2005-12-05 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Lee
I built one of the early field test K2s, so we had to add the options as
they
came along.  Adding them is pretty trivial.  In some cases, a few components
to
be added to the radio, or perhaps some component changed to a different
value.
Absolutely nothing difficult at all.

I suggest you decide how you want to operate your rig when it's finished,
then
add the options in order of your priorities.  I think the slickest option is
the KAT2 internal antenna tuner, followed by the KDSP2 DSP audio filter and
noise reducer.  If you like to work 160m you have to add that option also,
but
it's just a little board that mounts in the rear of the main RF board.

Anyway, just enjoy the fun of building your K2.  Don't rush, because when
it's
done, you'll be looking around for something else to build :-)

73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rockinghorse
Winner
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 9:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Ready to start, but one question...


Hi all. I have a few extra dolars and a cold apartment, and am ready to
start on my K2.  However, my funds do not extend to all the extras like the
KPA-100, DSP, KAT, etc... so I was interested in knowing how extensive and
difficult is the retrofitting of these modules vis a vis desoldering.
Thanks.

LeeKI6AZS

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Anomaly

2005-11-28 Thread Robert Tellefsen
This must have been around a long time.
I have s/n 12, and have the same thing.
I just ignore it.  Would be nice to have
it cleared up though.
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chuck Gehring
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 7:06 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Anomaly


K2 Anomaly

I have experienced an anomaly; at least I think it is an anomaly on my K2.

When I am rotating the VFO knob the frequency display will disappear very
briefly and be replaced by my power output setting, then change back just a
quickly to the frequency display.

I have not been able to duplicate it with any degree of regularity; it just
happens and goes back to normal.  The rate of change on the VFO knob does
not seem to determine when this occurs.

It does not seem to have any effect on performance.  Has anyone else
experienced this, can anyone offer an explanation?

73, KI4DGH

Chuck Gehring
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RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2-settings for CW use

2005-11-23 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Karsten
To use the NR function on cw, you need to open up the filters.
The narrower the filters, whether IF or audio, the more noise
pulses are stretched, and white noise begins to sound like
signal.  Both cases reduce the effectiveness of the NR function.

I find that I get the best results with the IF filter set around 500 Hz
bandwidth, and the same for the DSP filter.  This gives the NR
function a chance to work.

So you have a tradeoff between NR versus selectivity.  You have to
experiment under any given conditions to see which gives you the
best results.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Karsten
Eppert(DK4AS)
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 11:51 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KDSP2-settings for CW use


Hi folks,
has anybody experimented with the noise reduction of the KDSP2 for cw?
Are there any optimum settings that one should use or are the factory
settings already optimum. Up to now I´m not very much pleased with this
particular feature, while the others are very helpful. Possibly I´m just
using it wrong.
73
Karsten
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RE: [Elecraft] K2: DSP for CW ?

2005-11-21 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hello Simon
I think the KDSP2 is beneficial under all conditions.
It provides three features, any one of which can be important
at a given moment.
The most obvious one is audio filtering, supplementing the
internal crystal filter.
The next obvious feature is Noise Reduction, not necessarily
a problem in the field, but it could be.
The final feature, not always recognized, is a small amount
of additional audio gain when DSP is engaged.  It is set
during the setup process, and can compensate for audio level
lost in narrower bandwidths.
I have my KDSP2 engaged when I'm out on our annual ARRL Field
Day every year.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Simon Brown
(HB9DRV)
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 9:39 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K2: DSP for CW ?


On behalf of a 'friend' - if you are only using the K2 for portable CW is 
the DSP really beneficial?

He is not thinking about the 100 watt option, just the basic radio for 
portable use.

He has the T1 ATU, are any other options essential?

Simon 'Just say no!' Brown
---
www.hb9drv.ch www.laax.ch 

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RE: [Elecraft] K2: DSP for CW ? - Curious

2005-11-21 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Chuck
I run my KDSP2 all the time, and vary the
NR setting according to the noise I hear.
Sometimes I get improved results by adding the Attenuator
or the Preamp.  It all depends on the type of noise
and its amplitude relative to the desired signal.
You really do have to experiment a bit to find the
best settings at any given time.

The tightest IF selectivity and DSP selectivity
often make a big difference too.  Try everything
and see what works best in your situation.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chuck Mabbott
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 3:41 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2: DSP for CW ? - Curious


K2 Question [cause I don't know]
Past experience with 'other' DSP options and CW if I have a CW signal buried
[way] down in the noise level and DSP is activated the CW signal will
sometimes be cut back or disappear along with the noise.

So just out of curiousity how does the K series work with respect to you can
here the signal faintly amidst the noise levels?

---
Chuck AA8VS

Do not fear the enemy, for your enemy can only take
 your life. It is far better that you fear the media, for they
 will steal your HONOR. That awful power, the public
opinion of a nation, is created in America by a horde of
ignorant, self-complacent simpletons who failed at ditching
and shoemaking and fetched up in journalism on their way
to the poorhouse.
--Mark Twain.


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RE: [Elecraft] Computer-noise

2005-11-20 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Martin
It sounds like the switching power supply is still active,
even when the computer is switched off.  I suggest an external
switch which can be used to completely kill the computer
until you actually want to use it.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Martin
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2005 7:51 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Computer-noise


Hello elecrafters,
today i wandered through the house carrying the battery-powered K2
with a vhf antenna connected to ŽsniffŽ for the noise i have on 80 
160m. On 160m, snap-on ferrites on 2 network-cables completely
removed the carriers. On 80m the problem seems to be more
difficult: The noise is produced by one of 3 Computers in my buro,
even when it is switched off. The other computers are quiet, also the
one in the shack.
The noise becomes a lot stronger when the computer is on, but only
completely disappears when it is disconnected from the mains.
Its a raspy carrier slowly sweeping up and down the band.

Any ideas where to start? A snap-on ferrite on the power-cord
helps a little, but not much.



--
Best regards,
 Martin DM4iM, ex DL1iAQ
K2 #2706  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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RE: [Elecraft] CW Sweepstakes contest

2005-11-07 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Craig
We sure welcome you back to the fold.  Please post your call when you get
it.

I heartily recommend the K2 if you have any expectiations of getting back
into
contesting.  It really is a kick butt radio, whether at QRP or 100w
levels.

I think you will get more bang for your buck out of the K2, as it will allow
you to QRO if you wish, work all bands 10-160, and has an excellent computer
interface to access the logging program of your choice.

Had an absolute ball in the cw SS this weekend with my 5w K2.

Welcome home :-)
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Craig D. Smith
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 6:45 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] CW Sweepstakes contest


Enjoyed reading of Elecraft owner’s experiences during the contest.  I can
offer a “historical” perspective.  This used to be my favorite contest, as I
was a CW geek (W2BHP, K2RE) and really enjoyed it even with my limited
antenna setup.  Got out of ham radio about 20 years ago, but am starting to
get the bug again.  Listened for about 8 hours with my ICOM R75 and random
wire and certainly got the urge to be able to jump in again! 
 
Some comments on the “top ten” list:  The “new” technology certainly makes a
difference, both positively and negatively.  The item that I noticed most is
the continual CQ calling with limited listening by many many stations.  At
the risk of sounding like an old fart, back in my day we had to call CQ by
hand rather than by pushing a button on the memory keyer.  Now as fatigue
sets in it is easier to push the button rather than listen and search the
band for stations you haven’t worked.  On the positive side, automatic
antenna tuners have made the long tune-ups almost a thing of the past.  I
must say that in all my hours of listening, I didn’t hear any objectionable
tune-ups.  As far as discourteous operators, etc. I’d say it was not any
worse or better than it was back in the “old days”.   Mostly polite.
 
So look for me next November with a new license and K2 or KX1!
 
I’d like to see more results here from Elecraft owners in the contest,
especially QRP.  I heard 75 sections here in Colorado.

Craig D. Smith



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RE: [Elecraft] ARRL November Sweepstakes CW

2005-11-07 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Ci
To answer your question, sure, there is plenty of room
for those who want to do paper logging.  I did that
myself up to two years ago when I was given an ancient
33MHZ Compac laptop.  I added TRLOG to it and never
looked back.

When doing paper logging, you need to invent some shortcuts
to save a lot of manual paper shuffling.  Look at the contest
you will be entering and look at the exchange.  Is there any
part that is repetitive?  Some use a signal exchange that is
nearly always 599.  If so, just leave it printed in your
log sheet and don't try to hand enter it.
For time, just enter the hour once then only the minutes for
each contact within that hour.  Don't log anything that isn't
called for.

Manual logging is a pain once you have used a computer, but it
worked for all those years and still does.  Just has lower
throughput.  With manual logging, it will be difficult to be
competitive, but a QRPer in a big dogs contest really isn't
anyway.  My primary goals are just to beat my previous efforts
in a given contest, and add some score points to my contest club's
combined score.  Thank goodness there are plenty of others out
there to help carry THAT load :-)

Don't give up, just be more selective in your goals.  Enjoy.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 8:20 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] ARRL November Sweepstakes CW




In a message dated 11/7/05 7:39:51 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

40+  Years of CW SSing and still LOVING IT!




I am a newcomer to all of this, and I am wondering if there is any place
left in contesting for those of us who choose not to have a computer send
code
or receive code--ie just used for logging. I am working on getting my speed
up,
 but I couldn't participate due to my inability to copy the high speed CW
used by  what I assume are mostly computers sending code. Am i off-base
here? I
do enjoy  the QRP contests I have entered since these seem to use manually
generated  exchanges at slower speeds (20 - 25 WPM). Thanks for any
advice...Ci,
 WU7R

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RE: [Elecraft] What is this??? (re: sweeps...)

2005-11-07 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Not at all, Bob.  This is very definitely a technical reflector
with emphasis on the Elecraft radios.  However, I might point out
that contesting is not just operating, it has a very technical
base.  Many excellent contest operators operator from stations
that are very technically sound, even advanced over what many of
us can realistically put together.

As the mandatory Elecraft content for this msg, I just point out
that more and more contesters are using Elecraft radios one way
or another.
I ran my K2 at 5w this weekend and a borrowed receiver to make up 
a sort of SO2R station, standing for Single Operator 2 Radios.
Normally this would be a two transceiver setup, but the second
receiver really did me gather up more QSOs.

Hope to hear you trying out a contest sometime, just to see what the
shouting is all about.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 5:32 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] What is this??? (re: sweeps...)


I bought a K2 because it is a great rig...
 
I joined the reflector
 
I am only at Assembly stage 2 due to Wilma.
 
Direct hit here.
 
And what happens the next week end?  CQWWSSB...
Try passing HW during that.
 
I did not expect 30 emails in one day about contesting
 
I've been a ham 28 years,and there is a place for contesting.
 
I guess I was mistaken thinking this was a K2 technical reflector.
 
73 de Bob K3YT
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RE: [Elecraft] Sweepstakes CW

2005-11-03 Thread Robert Tellefsen
I will definitely be checking 15 during the day.
I see we had sunspots in the low 30s yesterday,
so perhaps something interesting will happen after all.
See you all in the contest.
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jack Brindle
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 7:45 AM
To: J F
Cc: Elecraft Discussion List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sweepstakes CW


Don't forget 15 meters! It was very active this past weekend.

On Nov 3, 2005, at 6:40 AM, J F wrote:

 Plan to have my K2 (3311) running from the new QTH
 this weekend. May run Q on 80/40/20, most of my
 activity will be during the first half of the test.
 Hope to work a bunch of you!
 73,
 Julius
 n2wn
 (WN2EOO in 1972)
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- Jack Brindle, W6FB
 
-


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[Elecraft] Sort of SO2R contesting

2005-10-30 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Thanks to the generosity of Don, W6CZ, I have the loan of
an Icom R75 receiver to try my hand at SO2R operation with
my K2.

I remember someone else was doing a similar thing.  I'd like
to exchange ideas and questions with anyone else doing this.
Particularly about switching issues.

Fortunately there is a little time between now and CW SS for
practice and trial and error.

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 - 160 mtrs

2005-10-27 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Bruce
No, Ant1/Ant2 is for selecting two main antennas.
You have a menu option for R2 On/Off, or you can
program one of the two option buttons to select
the R2 On/Off menu item, then just punch the
top left panel button to toggle between On and Off.
I find that faster than turning the knob.

The K2 works very well with separate receiving antennas
on 160m.  I use the Flag loop here, plus a rotatable
tuned loop.  The Flag actually works FB through 40m.

You can find a ton of Flag loop info at
http://www.angelfire.com/md/k3ky/page37.html

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of rattray
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 10:02 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - 160 mtrs



I'm finally getting around to using my K2 on 160 mtrs - is the idea of the
K2 that a separate receiving antenna for 160 mtrs can be attached to the bnc
connector on the back (K160RX option) while using the regular bnc connector
to connect to the 160 mtr antenna for transmitting? - one switches to the
receiving antenna from the front panel using ANT1/2? - 72 Bruce.

72/73 - Bruce ve5rc/ve5qrp - QRP-C#1, QRP-L#886, A1 Operator
Enter QRP-Canada's RUN with RAC contest -
    details - http://www.qrp-canada.com
 


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 and TR-Log

2005-10-21 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Fred
You should be able to select Kenwood as the radio
type and have it control the K2.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Fred Jensen
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 4:50 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 and TR-Log


Apparently I'm no longer a member of the TR-Log reflector although I 
still get their postings (??)  I'll try here:

What version of TR do I need to be on to get serial control of my K2?  I 
think I'm running 6.72 and have been for a long time.  The manual I have 
is for 6.52 and does not indicate a config item for the K2 in RADIO 
TYPE.  If I can make this work, the K2/100 will become my station radio 
and at least one of the off-shore radios will hit the market.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
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RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2 question

2005-10-12 Thread Robert Tellefsen
This is normal, Ken.
A good DSP filter has exactly the characteristics you describe.

When I use Spectrogram to adjust my crystal filters, I first set the
DSP to the desired bandwidth, then the XFIL, then do the adjustment
until I get the best looking curve.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Bessler
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 9:04 AM
To: Elecraft Main Group
Subject: [Elecraft] KDSP2 question


Is it normal that (according to Spectrogram) my new KDSP2's filters have
sharper skirts and far less ripple than the XFIL filters?   I'm not talking
about the denoiser or the autonotch, just the bandpass filters.   Is the
KDSP2 that good or are my X filters defective? Also, I'd like to hear from
other KDSP2 owners as to what they have nr and nt set to. I have these
values and they seem to work:   nr 30 50 nt 50 00   Comments welcome
73 de Ken KGØWX - Flying Pigs #-1055 Elecraft K2 #4913 - Kadiddlehoppers
#11,807
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RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2 question

2005-10-12 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Stan
You do it just the way you would without the DSP unit.
First select the pitch you want to have at the center of the filter.
I use about 550 Hz here.
Then adjust the KDSP2 for the narrowest setting you want to use,
say 100 Hz, centered on the pitch you have selected.  Now do
the adjustments to the crystal filter at its narrowest bandwidth
until you see the most even symmetrical passband curve.

Now step the DSP unit to the next wider bandwidth you want, and do
the same for the crystal filter.  Again adjust the crystal filter
for the best looking curve at that bandwidth.  Keep doing this up
to the widest bandwidth of the crystal and DSP filters.  For
convenience I use the same bandwidth in both filters at a given
selection setting--XF1=AF1, XF2=AF2, etc.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: Stan Rife [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 9:56 AM
To: 'Robert Tellefsen'; 'Ken Bessler'; 'Elecraft Main Group'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2 question


Best looking curve??  Can you elaborate Bob? It has been a while
since I set mine up and I have adjusted the sidetone somewhat to peak the
sidetone to my hearing. I need to go in and make sure the sidetone is still
in the center of the passband on the filters. I have never used Spectrogram
to adjust my DSP filters.

Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Tellefsen
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 11:32 AM
To: Ken Bessler; Elecraft Main Group
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2 question


This is normal, Ken.
A good DSP filter has exactly the characteristics you describe.

When I use Spectrogram to adjust my crystal filters, I first set the
DSP to the desired bandwidth, then the XFIL, then do the adjustment
until I get the best looking curve.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Bessler
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 9:04 AM
To: Elecraft Main Group
Subject: [Elecraft] KDSP2 question


Is it normal that (according to Spectrogram) my new KDSP2's filters have
sharper skirts and far less ripple than the XFIL filters?   I'm not talking
about the denoiser or the autonotch, just the bandpass filters.   Is the
KDSP2 that good or are my X filters defective? Also, I'd like to hear from
other KDSP2 owners as to what they have nr and nt set to. I have these
values and they seem to work:   nr 30 50 nt 50 00   Comments welcome
73 de Ken KGØWX - Flying Pigs #-1055 Elecraft K2 #4913 - Kadiddlehoppers
#11,807
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 opinions sought

2005-10-11 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hello Mike
Interesting idea for your big panel controls.
My suggestions are separate selection and indicators for FIL1 through FIL4
and AF1 through AF4, R2 ON/OFF with indicator, a RIT control with zero
center
detent, TEST/CW/USB/LSB on separate buttons, ANT1/ANT2 a separate button
from the TUNE function, SPLIT with an ON/OFF indicator.

Some of these, where there are only two states, such as R2 ON/OFF or
ANT1/ANT2,
could be a single button with two indicators side by side.

I hope you get lots of ideas from the group.  Good luck.
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 11:32 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 opinions sought


Hi,

I'm in the process of designing an interface for my K2 that would bring
functions, currently enabled or changed by tapping keys or holding keys, to
independent controls.  I am also going to bring some functions, that are
enabled by navigating through the menu system, to single button/switch
functions.  I am doing all of this to bring a big radio feel to my small and
capable K2.

I would like to find out which functions you would like to see implemented
with a single control.  As an example, instead of tapping the mode button to
select USB, LSB, or CW, I will just turn the rotary switch to the desired
mode.

Thanks for your input.

Mike, WA1SEO
 K2-4778
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RE: [Elecraft] Poor Man's Spectrum Analyzer

2005-10-10 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Matt
You could consider making a 5 dB pad that also
matchs from 50 to 75 ohms.  5 dB would not
sacrifice too much sensitivity, and it would be
very broadband, being nothing but three resisters.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Matt Osborn
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 7:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Poor Man's Spectrum Analyzer


The Poor Man's Spectrum Analyzer I'm building uses a varacter driven
cable tuner as its front end.  The cable tuner has an input impedance
of 75 ohms. Most instruments have 50 ohm input impedance and my usage
will be primarily with 50 ohm devices.

Maybe it isn't worth worrying about, but I'm looking for a convenient
way to convert from 75 ohm to 50 ohm input impedance.  I've seen some
writeups on building a 50 ohm to 75 ohm broadband unun, but the
articles were incomplete (or my knowledge level is too low to
recognize a complete article).  The analyzer covers 5MHzto 500MHz.

Does anybody have any advice?  Leave it alone, build an unun, buy an
unun, any other options?
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RE: [Elecraft] FPLY menu selections

2005-09-16 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Chuck

Some buttons are not available for the FastPlay option.
45 means just buttons 4 and 5 can be programmed.  458
means buttons 4, 5 and 8 can be programmed.  23 means 2 and
3 can be programmed.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 9:39 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] FPLY menu selections


My K2 is working great.  Even after six months I am still exploring and
playing with the options.  Last week I started working with the Fast Play
option.  I am a little confused with the selections under FPLY.  The first
FPLY selection 2-5 is self explanatory, memory keys 2 thru 5 are selected.
However the other available FPLY options are confusing.  45, 458, and 23.
Is there only one available FPLY option?  What do these other FLPY menu
items mean?

73 KI4DGH
Chuck G.

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RE: RE: [Elecraft] FPLY menu selections

2005-09-16 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Chuck
Part of the answer is history.  When Wayne developed this feature, he only
had a limited amount of memory to work with.

With these choices, you get to keep access to some buttons that you might
want to use.  When they are reprogrammed to FastPlay, you lose access to the
primary feature of the button.  So, study the buttons used for 2, 3, 4, 5
and
8.  See which ones you want to stay available, then just program the
remainder
for FastPlay messages.

For example, I used to use 3 for the exchange message in a contest, and 4
for my call.  Then 8 is my QRL? button.  However, I'm into contesting fairly
heavily now, and use my laptop running TR LOG  for my contesting logging
program.  It allows me to program all my messages into the F keys across the
top of the keyboard, so I seldom use the FastPlay in the K2 itself anymore.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 10:32 AM
To: Robert Tellefsen; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: RE: [Elecraft] FPLY menu selections


Bob,
Thanks for the reply.  I guess I should have played with it some more before
posting the question.  I am just a little reluctant to select an option
until I understand what will happen.  Then again I would expect a menu
selection that would appear to be more intuitive.  Going in sequence with 2
thru 5 or 23, 45 makes sense.  The 458 kind of catches you off guard.  Why
not 258? then you have keys that go right down the center.  Or just make all
of the available keys 23458 available. Not that I would every need or want
them all.   I am not complaining or recommending any changes.  God knows I
luv my K2 just wondering out loud.

Thanks again
73
Chuck G.

 From: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2005/09/16 Fri PM 12:03:51 CDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED],
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net,  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] FPLY menu selections

 Chuck

 Some buttons are not available for the FastPlay option.
 45 means just buttons 4 and 5 can be programmed.  458
 means buttons 4, 5 and 8 can be programmed.  23 means 2 and
 3 can be programmed.

 Good luck and 73
 Bob N6WG The Little Station with Attitude

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 9:39 AM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [Elecraft] FPLY menu selections


 My K2 is working great.  Even after six months I am still exploring and
 playing with the options.  Last week I started working with the Fast Play
 option.  I am a little confused with the selections under FPLY.  The first
 FPLY selection 2-5 is self explanatory, memory keys 2 thru 5 are selected.
 However the other available FPLY options are confusing.  45, 458, and 23.
 Is there only one available FPLY option?  What do these other FLPY menu
 items mean?

 73 KI4DGH Chuck G.

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RE: [Elecraft] Antenna question - Balun

2005-08-21 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Yes, it can be done, Mike.
Remember that the 4:1 balun will be happiest seeing
an impedance around 200-300 ohms, though.  The
4:1 ratio really only holds when the impedances are
correct.  Once you throw in a mixed load that is
well away from this value, plus an unknown amount of
reactance, the ratio changes and losses can mount.
Not a serious concern at QRP power levels, but at 100w
it could cook a balun that is seriusly mismatched.

The best way to use baluns is to adjust your balanced
feedline length on a given band to give very little
reactance, regardless of the resistive part of the load
impedance.  The ATU will have an easier time matching
a resistive load than one with combined reactance and
resistance.  The baluns will work best when the loads
are resistive, even if the wrong value.  When you mix in
reactance, the balun will have unpredictable ratios and
losses.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

-Original Message-
From: Mike W [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 4:03 PM
To: Robert Tellefsen; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Antenna question - Balun




On 21 Aug 2005 at 8:40, Robert Tellefsen wrote:

 Two things will make matching easier.  Get two
 baluns, 1:1 and 4:1.  Put them on the two
 antenna ports of the ATU

Looking at the two versions of the BL1 for 1:1 and 4:1
Can you not use a 2pco ( dpdt ) switch or relay to change between the two ?.

Commons to the two inner windings ( see BL1.pdf ).
 Short them for interconnect on the NO connections for 4:1
 Parallel them on the NC connections for 1:1.

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