[Elecraft] PART II - ATTENTION HAKKO 936 T/C Soldering Station Users.

2011-03-27 Thread Tom Hammond
Sorry folks... I COMPLETELY FORGOT to include a link to my web site 
in my previous e-mail regarding availability of the Hakko 936 info... 
my only excuse is that I was more tired than I thought and wasn't 
thinking clearly (locals accuse me of that regardless of my 
physical/mental state).

The link to my web site is:  www.n0ss.net

The web site is broken into several Elecraft radio-specific pages and 
several non-Elecraft pages.  Just go wherever you wish... you may 
find useful into there.

If you enjoy good food, and are a cook, go to the BOTTOM of the main 
web page and download a copy of my XYL (Jeri, K0RPH's) on-line 
cookbook.  UnZIP it (on your PC) and enjoy some of our favorite 
recipes as well.

73,

Tom   N0SS

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[Elecraft] ATTENTION HAKKO 936 T/C Soldering Station Users...!!!

2011-03-26 Thread Tom Hammond
Some of you may have tried (and failed) to locate a schematic for 
your Hakko 936 T/C Soldering Station on the web...  I've been trying 
for several years(!) now, with no luck.  I did find what was 
purported to be the schematic, from Essen Electronics Systems Private 
Limited (India, I think).  It was NOT an accurate schematic for the 
936, BUT it was as close as we had available to us.

Well, all of that has now changed!

After quite a number of hours of time and effort I have completely 
rendered an accurate schematic of the Hakko 936 T/C Soldering 
Station, including an image of the PC board, it's components (listed 
by both part ID and component value).

The schematic is available on my web site, on the General Amateur 
Radio Files page, about half way down the page.

If you are looking for backup data for your Hakko 936, now's the time 
to download the schematic info.  Come 'n git it!

Enjoy.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] OT - Anyone know what happened to BOATANCHORS.COM...?

2011-03-26 Thread Tom Hammond
Anyone know what happened to the web site BOATANCHORS.COM, at least I 
think that's what the name was.

And yes, I'm aware of MODS-DK... thanks.

73,

Tom   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Vertical Bug

2011-03-15 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Ron, et al:

I have an old bug used by a friend who was an HF op for the MO Hwy Patrol.

His Vibroplex runs nicely from about 18 WPM on up... BUT he (or 
someone else) modified the leaf spring by thinning it (vertically) as 
shown below:

  -\___/-

  _/---\_

This thinning reduced the 'springiness' to a level which allows for 
nice slow CW
with the weights fully out, but nice response up to 40+ WPM with the 
weights fully in.

73,

Tom   N0SS


At 04:01 PM 3/15/2011, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Thank you Stan. I've seen photographs of a vertical bug but I've never used
one.

I also have a Vibroplex bug - a standard model that came to me in the 1990's
through an old friend's widow when he became a silent key. My regular bug is
an E.F. Johnson Speed-X. The Speed-X slows easily to 10 to 15 wpm using it's
nifty standard weight that has a finger grip clamp - just squeeze and slide,
let go and it's securely locked in its new position.

I was surprised to find that the Vibroplex would not slow to less than about
25 wpm, even with two weights. My friend had been a commercial CW op both at
sea and at KPH in California so I knew he had to slow it down to under 15
wpm to match the speed wanted by the other operator. Les accomplished that
with a common cable clamp secured to the pendulum. (See it at
http://www.radiomarine.org/gallery/show?keyword=kphhistorypanel=pab1_1#pab1
_1 Scroll down to Les Burger and click on the image to enlarge it). You can
see the threaded shafts of the cable clamp sticking up through the crossbar.
It works great, but it's a very heavy feel.

Talking with a number of OT Vibroplex owners whose bugs slowed down in into
the 15 WPM easily without special weights and comparing keys closely, we
discovered that Vibroplex made two different leaf springs for their key
pendulums back in the 1960's. One was much thicker with a higher vibration
frequency than the other. I've never been able to find out why they did
that.

The sound and feel of a nice bug is, for me, just as basic to Ham radio as
stringing up antennas and melting solder on a new project ;-)

73,

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-

I just want to share a recent discovery with other Elecraft listers who
appreciate 'bug' keys.

The following short video is a demo I made of my new vertical 'bug'
compared to the more traditional ones.  This vertical key is a fabulous
slow speed performer and doesn't need a pipe wrench hanging off the
forward end to slow down - it's naturally slower but dropping the weight
brings it up to 35 WPM.  Until recently I knew very little about
vertical keys and pretty much concluded that with so little marketing
going on, they must not be very good.

GOSH,  WAS I WRONG !!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5EU6wubkaEfeature=related


73, Stan WB2LQF

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: re CW ID macro on SSB

2011-02-15 Thread Tom Hammond
Actually, it's NOT actually 'illegal'... BUT... you MUST use SSB, and 
you MUST have every well-suppressed carrier.  I don't recall the 
exact amount of carrier suppression that's required, but it must be 
essentially negligible, thus, the tone is transmitted AS the CW 
carrier and the suppressed carrier is low enough that you won't hear it.

Collins, and a couple others which didn't offer CW mode, used to use 
a small plug-into-the-mic-jack sine wave oscillator which could be 
keyed and which would allow CW to be sent cleanly... in SSB mode.

73,

Tom   N0SS


At 10:25 AM 2/15/2011, w...@w5ov.com wrote:
At one time that was illegal - is it still?


  But that would get you a SSB transmission modulated with a tone. Not a
  CW transmission.
 
  Mark  AD5SS
 
 
  On Tue, Feb 15, 2011 at 10:32 AM,  n...@widomaker.com wrote:
  any chance of recording the CW audio on a DVR and replaying and
  recording into one of the memories with the K3 DVR?  then jkust play
  it back on the air.
 
  ...bill nr4c
 
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Re: [Elecraft] spectrogram

2010-12-29 Thread Tom Hammond
John:

There are several(!) versions of Spectrogram available.

IF you are planning on using Spectrogram to align your K2 or K1, then 
I'd suggest getting Spectrogram v5.1.7 from my web site... it's 
located immediately adjacent to the printed documentation for 
aligning your radio (K2 or K1), depending upon which rig-specific 
page you've gone to.

You CAN use newer versions of Spectrogram with my alignment docs, but 
there's absolutely NO benefit in doing so and newer versions offer 
features you will not need nor wish to use.

Visit:

For the K2 - http://www.n0ss.net/index_k2.html

  Spectrogram and docs are located about 3/4 of the way down the page

For the K1 - http://www.n0ss.net/index_k1.html

  Spectrogram and docs are located about 2/3 of the way down the page

The ONLY additional device you'll need is an audio jumper cable from 
the radio;s
speaker output to the input of the sound card on your PC.  Suggest 
using stereo
connectors, but with TIP and SLEEVE (no RING) connected.

DO NOT OVERDRIVE THE AUDIO INPUT TO THE SOUND CARD.. this will cause audio
artifacts in the display which are not helpful during the alignment process.

If you have ANY PROBLEMS OR QUESTIONS, drop me an e-mail.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 09:47 12/29/2010, you wrote:
where can i find this software?  tried googling it but apparently 
the company that made it went out of buiseness.
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[Elecraft] W0O FRANKENSTEIN HALLOWEEN SPOOKTACULAR

2010-10-26 Thread Tom Hammond
Ghostly signals will once again emanate from Frankenstein, Missouri, 
over Halloween weekend.

Witches and warlocks of the Mid-MO Amateur Radio Club will be 
haunting victims near QRP frequencies on 80, 75, 40, 30, and 20 
meters (higher bands if open).

Spirits screeching from two skeletal K3s (brooms bearing serial 
numbers 008 and 021) on CW/SSB will commence brewing around 2100 GMT 
Saturday afternoon, Oct. 30th, and terminate Sunday night or Monday morning.

W0O ghouls will QSL 100% to YOUR mansion as listed at QRZ.COM.  So, 
if your mailing address is NOT correct at QRZ.COM, please update it 
NOW, or be sure to give it to when we work you.

Please DO NOT QSL to us!!!  Stations attempting to QSL us will find 
pins in their coax (we have no space to display or store them).

You have been warned!  Our blood pulses with grisly desire to rip and 
tear electrons from your antenna!

73,

Kent Trimble, K9ZTV
Special Event Chairman
Mid-MO ARC
Jefferson City, Missouri

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[Elecraft] W0O FRANKENSTEIN HALLOWEEN SPOOKTACULAR

2010-10-26 Thread Tom Hammond
Ghostly signals will once again emanate from Frankenstein, Missouri, 
over Halloween weekend.

Witches and warlocks of the Mid-MO Amateur Radio Club will be 
haunting victims near QRP frequencies on 80, 75, 40, 30, and 20 
meters (higher bands if open).

Spirits screeching from two skeletal K3s (brooms bearing serial 
numbers 008 and 021) on CW/SSB will commence brewing around 2100 GMT 
Saturday afternoon, Oct. 30th, and terminate Sunday night or Monday morning.

W0O ghouls will QSL 100% to YOUR mansion as listed on QRZ.COM.  So, 
if your mailing address is not accurate at QRZ.COM, please correct it 
NOW, or ensure that you give us your new address when/if we work you.

Please DO NOT QSL to us!!!  Stations attempting to QSL us will find 
pins in their coax (we have no space to display or store them).

You have been warned!  Our blood pulses with grisly desire to rip and 
tear electrons from your antenna!!!

73,

Kent Trimble, K9ZTV
Special Event Chairman
Mid-MO ARC
Jefferson City, Missouri

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Re: [Elecraft] Use of external speakers/amp

2010-10-04 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Rick:

Initially, I added a pair of Motorola (mobile) amplified speakers to 
my K2 (and subsequently to my K3) installation.  I found that having 
a PAIR of speakers on
the audio output of the K2 and K3 made a significant improvement in 
my enjoyment of listening and I seemed to have to 'work' less to hear 
signals.  And YES, my hearing is just fine (well... unless you ask my XYL...).

The speakers worked nicely, but the DC connections just meant more 
wires that had to be connected.

I then (about 2-3 years ago, I guess) switched to a pair of Motorola 
UN-amplified mobile speakers to replace the amplified pair I had been 
using.  I found these speakers on EBay for a total of $15 (shipped).

The new (3.2 Ohm) speakers work just great, have more than ample 
audio output for use in my somewhat noisy (at times) shack, and give 
me the audio quality I want for my (99% CW) operation... they also 
sound great on SSB, though they're certainly NOT tailored toward the 
hi-fi SSB scene.

ANY time you insert a set of amplified speakers into the ham station, 
you're risking problems with potential RFI into the amplifiers and 
then the associated fight to quell the RFI.  I'd much prefer to go 
with UNamplified speakers, if I can find the right ones.

The K3 audio system 'likes' a speaker load in the 4 Ohm range.  8-Ohm 
speakers should give adequate reproduction, but will generally not 
produce nearly as much output as a speaker more closely matching the 
desired 4-Ohm load.  The K3 seems to really like the 3.2 Ohm Motorola speakers.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 08:16 10/04/2010, you wrote:

Over on qth.com in the forums area (the Talk sub-forum) is a 
discussion called A sad thing happened
on the way to a more perfect receiver.  Some interesting topics 
came up in the discussion, such
as
- Are DSP based receivers fatiguing to listen to for long periods of time?
- The benefits of using external audio amps and speakers.

In connection with the second topic, I wonder what other K3 owners 
might have done.
Have you gained any improvement by using external speakers, PC-type 
speakers with audio
amps built in, or even something like a stereo amp with hi fi speakers?

I have been experimenting with the receiver equalization, using an 
external Collins 312B4 speaker
but still don't have the audio to the way I want it, and I wonder if 
the internal audio amp might
be pushed to its limits in normal operation?  When I say it's not 
the way I want it, that is not
something I can quantify, at all!  I just haven't been able to make 
SSB sound smooth and mellow
like I want.  I won't go so far as to say it is fatiguing.  K3 has 
the stock ssb filter.

Rick  K2XT
K3 #3814

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[Elecraft] OT - How to contact Vibroplex with a question

2010-09-04 Thread Tom Hammond
A local newbie bought a Vibroplex Vibrokeyer at a recent hamfest.  He 
brought it to me to help him get it adjusted.

After adjusting the spring tension (too tight no matter how 'loose' 
the adjustments made it), and the contact spacing, I noticed that it 
didn't key the keyer to which it was attached... and when it DID 
(infrequently) cause the keyer to emit a tone, the electrical contact 
of either level was not consistent.

Using an ohmmeter I confirmed that the GND lead of the connecting 
cable was in deed electrically connected to the base of the keyer AND 
the the yoke holding the dual levers.  But NEITHER lever gave 
continuity to ground...!

Removing the keying levers revealed that this was in fact, one of the 
few paddles which came with synthetic ruby bearings which had not 
long ago been crushed by excessive tightening of the adjusting 
screws.  However, given that the ruby bearings were still in place, 
they provided for the levers to be well above ground potential to the 
base, and thus to the keyer itself.

The ONLY method I was able to find that each keying lever might have 
been 'electrically connected to the keyer base was via the 
(contact-return 'tension' spring in each lever.

I've tried to find a contact method for Vibroplex but have had no 
luck finding ANYTHING, unless I want to place an order for parts or service.

Does anyone happen to have a phone or e-mail address for 
Vibroplex?  And more importantly, can anyone confirm that the ONLY 
source of grounding between the Vibrokeyer levers and the base of the 
paddle is via the contact return springs?  If so, man, that's a 
HORRIBLY POOR connection to be relying upon.

Thanks for your time,

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/P3/Quadra

2010-08-08 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Larry:

I have a question about hooking up the P3 to the K3 12vdc out.

I'm using a cable of your design and it's been really great.

I'm using that output for the 12vdc sense voltage to turn the Quadra 
on and off.

My P3 will be here Monday.

It seems to me the that cable they supply is made to connect to the 
12vdc out on the K3.

And it is.

Will there be a problem if I put a Y connector on the 12vdc out 
and fed both the P3 and the sensor 12vdc and the P3.

It Depends... I 'think' the Quadra PROBABLY only requires a 
'knowledge' that there's 12VDC on that port in order to turn itself 
on... e.g. it's not being 'powered' in an manner from the K3, just 
being 'told' that yes, I'm turned on, so virtually no CURRENT is 
being require from the K3 +12VDC output.  To confirm this, I'd 
insert a mA meter and check to see how much (if any) current is being 
supplied TO the Quadra.  If there's a significant amount of current, 
then a Y connector may not be appropriate.

The P3 Owner's Manual specifications state that the P3 requires 10 
to 15 VDC @0.5A which, if accurate, pretty well consumes the 'rated' 
0.5A output from the K3's +12VDC @ .5A output.

HOWEVER... if the Quadra only requires a 'knowledge' that there's 
+12VDC at the port, and really doesn't require much current (if any), 
then yes, I'd think that you could probably get by with a Y cable 
to control the Quadra and to POWER the P3 as well.

If it turns out that the Quadra AND the P3 (together) do REQUIRE more 
current than the K3 +12VDC port can (or should be asked to) supply, 
then I'd probably suggest that you consider using the L3's +12VDC 
port to drive a small relay (or possibly a  MOSFET) which would 
switch on/off the output from a small external 12VDC power supply 
which could supply maybe 1A or so output.  Shouldn't me much 
difficulty to do this if it comes to that point.

Hope this helps.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS



Or should I make a longer cable and feed the P3 separately?

Thanks in advance for any information you can provide.
de mailto:k...@k2gn.comK2GN - Larry - http://k2gn.com
K3 S/N - 3278P3 S/N - soon




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Re: [Elecraft] P3 - Will it be able to monitor K3 output

2010-08-05 Thread Tom Hammond
Dave:

One of the suggestions (mine) for 'additional features' was to allow the P3 to
function as a transmitted waveform monitor (a la SM-220/SM-230, and others).
I'm hoping that the blank hole on the back of the P3 case (labeled 'SENSOR')
will eventually bring to us that feature.

Not sure we'll be able to monitor OUR transmitted bandwidth, but it'd sure be
very handy to be able to monitor our transmitted waveform.  Having 
had a monitor
scope for 40+ years (starting with a Heathkit HO-10), I cannot 
imagine operating
my station WITHOUT a monitor scope in-line... they've saved my bacon several
times in years past... I wouldn't be without one.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS
K3/P3 Field Tester.


At 14:54 08/05/2010, David Wilburn wrote:
Will the P3 (at some point) be able to monitor / display the output of
the K3 (or any other radio)?  Such as a band scope to check modulation
levels or transmit frequency.

Dave Wilburn
NM4M
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Delivery

2010-07-31 Thread Tom Hammond
Hopefully, you'll also think, SM-220/SM-230 (or YO-100).

Tom  N0SS

At 21:44 07/30/2010, Brett Howard wrote:
When you read sensor Think W2...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-30 at 09:29 -0500, Jim Miller KG0KP wrote:
  And it was dated today when I downloaded it (yesterday) and 
 started reading, but it was today before I stopped reading and 
 went to bed! hi hi).
 
  THANKS Alan for the heads up on the manual.
 
  Love the keyboard on the back panel, and the sensor?  Any ideas?
 
  Bet some went out the door yesterday.
 
  73, de Jim KG0KP
- Original Message -
From: Hector Padron
To: Jim Miller KG0KP
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 Delivery
 
 
  And if you read well,at the begining is dated 
 YESTERDAY,isn't that an updated manual ?
 
  AD4C
 
 
 
  If you see a driver handling a cell phone on her/his 
 hands while driving,do please stay away from that vehicle,its a 
 moving bomb.Your life is at danger.Keep yourself and your family alive
 
  --- On Fri, 7/30/10, Jim Miller KG0KP 
 jimmil...@stl-online.net wrote:
 
 
From: Jim Miller KG0KP jimmil...@stl-online.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 Delivery
To: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com, Don Cunningham 
 wb5...@martineer.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 5:04 AM
 
 
Fantastic and a manual too.  How about that!!!  Will 
 give me something to
read until mine shows up.
 
73, de Jim KG0KP
 
- Original Message -
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
To: Don Cunningham wb5...@martineer.net
Cc: Jim Miller KG0KP jimmil...@stl-online.net;
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 Delivery
 
 
I received my e-mail from Elecraft this afternoon 
 requesting confirmation of
my P3 order and the shipping address.  I guess this 
 means that they may ship
very soon, such as maybe tomorrow.
 
73, phil, K7PEH
 
On Jul 29, 2010, at 7:14 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:
 
 I'm glad you can get something positive out of that, 
 Jim.  To me,
 re-hashed,
 two week old news is not news at all, much less 
 great news.  I'd like
 something more concrete, like at least a manual to peruse.
 73,
 Don, WB5HAK

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable

2010-07-25 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Susan:

The pin inserts BETWEEN the RED and BLACK connector, NOT between the 
PAIRS of them.

If your APP connector separated from the radio too easily, there's an 
all too good chance that one of the (4) connectors is not fully 
'seated' with its mate and is a fraction of an inch ahead of (or 
behind) the other connector of the pair.

Another possibility is that (particularly on the power cable end) one 
(or both) of the push-in connector contacts has not been fully seated 
to the point that it has successfully (and completely) slipped over 
the leaf spring in each of the plastic housings.  It MUST LOCK over 
the front of the leaf spring or it will not allow the 2-connector 
assembly to seat properly.

If you wish, I can send you some illustrations of properly seated APP 
contacts, but I can't send 'em thru the reflector (which doesn't 
support file attachments OR embedded images).

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 12:15 07/25/2010, you wrote:
The power pole connector cable I recd with my k3 has no place for a pin.

The darned thing keeps disconnecting.


HELP


Great Grandmaw Susan

If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're 
headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper 
W7KFI-mm  AFA9SM USSV DHARMA


--- On Sun, 7/25/10, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:

  From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Date: Sunday, July 25, 2010, 6:41 AM
  On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 11:13:22 -0700
  (PDT), ab2tc wrote:
 
  Where should I look for a top quality connector?
 
  I've converted all of my DC wiring to Power Poles, so I've
  put
  together more than a hundred of these connectors. There are
  three
  sizes of pins that fit the red and black shells used by
  Elecraft.
  The small size is best for wires smaller than #18; the
  middle size
  (most common) works up to #12, the larger size goes up to
  #8 (and
  can be a very snug fit in the shell). I've always bought
  them from
  hamfest vendors, but there are several vendors who
  advertise in QST
  who sell them. They usually come in packs of ten, or ten
  pairs. I've
  never crimped them, always soldered.
 
  Remember that voltage drop is proportional to length, so
  shorter is
  better.
 
  73, Jim K9YC
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] YET ANOTHER (VERY) HELPFUL FIELD DAY FEATURE

2010-06-26 Thread Tom Hammond
Folks:

In order to prevent 'knob twiddling' by unfamiliar ops who like to 
'twiddle' knobs
of your rig, especially in order to get an INDICATED 100W OUTPUT IN 
SSB MODE ON AN EXTERNAL (AVERAGING) POWER METER...

The K3 offers a feature to LOCK the MIC GAIN, COMPRESSION, and POWER 
OUTPUT controls
so an uninitiated user can't 'crank up the gain' to be 'louder' (and 
much more distorted) on the other end...

Go to CONFIG | PWR SET  and press [1] to lock/UNlock MIC GAIN, 
COMPRESSION and POWER
level controls once they've been 'CORRECTLY' set by the owner!

Works just GREAT!  We used it last year and it SAVED us from several 
'poor audio'
reports.

73,

Tom   N0SS

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[Elecraft] N0SS' KPAIO3 Puller - Updated

2010-04-21 Thread Tom Hammond
In response to several requests for a few pictures of the KPAIO3 
Puller 'in action', I've added some pix and an UPDATED (and 
CORRECTED) ILLUSTRATION of the Puller design to my web site at:

http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html

or directly to that article at:

http://www.n0ss.net/kpaio3_pcb_puller_v1r1.pdf

Thanks to everyone for your interest.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] K3 Right Side Cover... Solution to a problem no one knew they had

2010-04-21 Thread Tom Hammond
As long as I'm on a 'roll', I might as well post this item as well...

Removing this side panel screw is relatively painless, but 
reinstalling it is more difficult.  Because the screw is threaded 
through two threaded devices (2D fastener and hex standoff), with no 
split lock washer between them to allow for some 'adjustment' of the 
tension between them, re-installing the screw will go fine through 
the 2D fastener, but once it gets to the hex standoff, the threads 
will not match exactly and the screw will have to 'push' the hex 
standoff away from the 2D fastener for a small distance (a portion of 
the length of the single 4-40 screw thread) until the threads match 
and the screw can be tightened up AGAINST THE 2D FASTENER (but NOT 
against the standoff which is still a portion of a thread width away).

I can understand why Elecraft had to do things in this manner, but 
now, in order to re-tighten the standoff against the 2D fastener, you 
must be able to access the standoff so it can be manually 
re-tightened.  You must 1) remove the 4-40 X 1/4 screw (and washer) 
attaching the KAT3/KANT3 PC board to the standoff, 2) remove the 
KAT3/KANT3 PC board, and then possibly remove the top-right rear 
panel screw to allow access to the standoff.  Then, you have to put 
things back together once again as well.  Whew!  A whale of a lot of 
work just to re-install a single screw.

If you're interested in my (too simple) solution to this problem, 
take a look at the full discussion at:

http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html

73,

Tom   N0SS


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[Elecraft] K3 - KPAIO3 'Puller'

2010-04-20 Thread Tom Hammond
Recently, I had to open up my K3 in order to perform a bit of 
preventive maintenance, on the KPAIO3 PC board.  This is the small PC 
board which interfaces the KPA3 100W amp assembly to the RF board in 
the Elecraft K3 HF transceiver.

The job started off easy enough... remove the top cover, remove the 
rear cooling fan assembly, remove the KPA3 PC board... I mean, it was 
an easy thing to do... a small PC board... couldn't be all THAT 
difficult to pull it straight up and out of the case, 
right?  WRONG!  In order to ensure that the KPA3 doesn't accidentally 
come loose during transport and handling, Elecraft chose to use some 
REALLY husky dual-row multi-pin 'hi retention' headers to attach the 
KPAIO3 to the RF board, and the same headers to attach the KPA3 to 
the KPAIO3.  The only difference is that if you must remove the KPA3 
from the clutches of the KPAIO3, you have a bit more available 'real 
estate' to grasp (and pry) on than you do when it comes to removing 
the KAPIO3 board.  In fact, there was a point in time that I was 
absolutely certain that my KPAIO3 had been soldered directly to the 
RF board, it was that tightly held in place.

Before I went too far and found myself ripping the guts of the RF 
board out (because my KPAIO3 really WAS soldered to the RF board), I 
called Elecraft and spoke with one of their techs who was very 
familiar with the K3.  Let me digress just a bit here... I did build 
my K3 from a kit, but being serial #8 (and one of the first K3's 
out of Aptos), it had been quite a while since the assembly, and I 
didn't recall whether I'd installed my KPAIO3 or whether it'd been 
pre-installed at the factory... so I called to confirm my 
suspicions... that it really DID plug in.

The tech assured me that it did plug into the RF board and he agreed 
that it was a 'bear' to remove.  He suggested 'wiggling' the PC board 
(front-to-back) as I lifted it up, ever so gradually allowing it to 
'work' itself out of the death grip of the two headers.  I considered 
that scenario, but didn't care for the 'wiggling' part, feeling that 
this only contributed to a possibly fractured PC board joint on one 
(or more) of the header pins...

The tech also suggested using some 'heavy wire' to make a loop to go 
through two (2) available  (and unused) holes in the KPAIO3 PC board, 
with the loop tied together so I could lift on it and pull the PC 
board straight out.

THIS IDEA I LIKED...!

I did a quick search of the shack and found little heavy wire, BUT I 
did manage to locate what turned out to be a length of 0.125 (1/8) 
O.D. aluminum welding rod.

I checked that the rod just barely passed through the (2) holes in 
the KPAIO3 PC board and was gratified to find that it did.

I then took a few measurements and bent the rod into the lift bracket 
shown below (note that the two vertical legs are different lengths), 
cutting off the excess rod length after the final bend had been 
made.  I then used a fine file to smooth out any 'dings' I might have 
created in the two short 'feet' of the lift bracket, to ensure that 
they would insert easily into the two PC board holes.

Now, all I have to do is to slip the two 'feet' of the lifting 
bracket into the holes of the KPAIO3 PC board, grip the lifting 
bracket AND the top bar of the K3 rear panel and squeeze my 
hand!  The PC board pops out cleanly and quite easily.  And much more 
safely than were I to have to 'wiggle' things back 'n forth.

While I don't expect everyone to have 1/8 O.D. aluminum welding rod 
on hand, I'm pretty certain that the same device could be made using 
a fairly heavy gauge metal clothes hangar.  The IMPORTANT thing is, 
when using this device, keep the main body of the lifting bracket up 
flush against the PC board,  thereby reducing the stress on the feet 
and keeping them from bending.

A PDF with this article and dimensional illustrations of the KPAIO3 
Puller is available on my web site at:

   http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html

more specifically:

   http://www.n0ss.net/kpaio3_pcb_puller_v1r1.pdf

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: R/T and T/R timing

2010-03-26 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Dave:

About 25 or so years ago, I added full QSK to my Alpha 76PA (using 
the QSK circuitry from the Alpha 78 (which had QSK from the factory).

Since that time, I've used the QSK-ed Alpha with every radio I've 
had, full QSK, with NO HOT SWITCHING... EVER!  And I'm NOT(!) using 
the built-in (Alpha) pre/post keying circuitry, which never gave 
satisfactory timing. Just letting the rigs key the T-R line.

The K3 is fully-timed such that you'll close the T-R line before RF 
appears, and you'll drop RF before the T-R line drops... unless 
you're using some sort of slow open-frame relay.  Vacuum relays, reed 
relays, and PIN diodes will all switch long before RF appears and 
well after it disappears.

For what it's worth, the DELAY control does NOT control key-down to 
RF-available timing... it controls key-up to return-to-RX timing.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

p.s.

If ANYONE with an Alpha 78 might happen to be interested, I have a 
completely designed, and working PC board to add both full QSK AND 
grid overdrive protection to your Alpha 78-series 
amplifier.  ETO/Alpha Power no longer offers the Alpha 78 QSK PC 
board, but I DO...!  Cost for the conversion is about $120 
complete.  Info sent on request.


At 09:38 03/26/2010, David Windisch wrote:

Hi, all concerned:

The time from key-down to rf-available, is well-defined, and controllable
with the DELAY knob from 8ms to 2s.

Is the time from key-up to no r-f output as well-defined, and controllable?

My concern is hot-switching an amplifier, in my case either a Ten-Tec 425 or
an Alpha 89, operating QSK c-w.

After key-up, on quiet bands or a dummy load, I hear a short tail (sounds
like an echo) at the end of each code element.

Is the situation different on SSB?

Any ideas out there, please?

Tia  brgds,
Dave, N3HE
--
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-R-T-and-T-R-timing-tp4804248p4804248.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Overvoltage protection?

2010-02-28 Thread Tom Hammond
Dan:

If the Astron is working AS INTENDED, when the OVP SCR fires, the UA723 VReg
will immediately go into over-current protect mode, reducing the output current
to 1A WITHOUT damaging ANYTHING!  Same as if you placed a short directly
across the output terminals of the supply.

The ONLY time the fuse should blow is if the p ass transistors shorted.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 20:28 02/28/2010, you wrote:
I recently purchased a 35 amp Astron power supply at a hamfest (in 
great condition).  Upon inspection, I found that the crowbar SCR had 
failed, and had been removed.

Although I've replaced the SCR, I'm wondering if the K3 has 
overvoltage protection of some kind?

As an aside, I would like to test the crowbar circuit in the Astron, 
but with that big capacitor in there, I'm kind of hesitant.  That 
big capacitor would have to discharge before the primary fuse would 
blow (maybe blowing the SCR)--right?  I'm thinking of putting a 25 
amp fuse in series with the capacitor.  Anyone address this before?

Thanks,
Dan - W4TQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Need to select a dummy load for K3 TX calibration...(advice?)

2010-02-24 Thread Tom Hammond
FWIW - Last time I spoke with the folks at Ridge Equipt., they had 'a few'
100W-150W loads available as well as those shown on their web page...
apparently not enough to make it worth reworking the web page to show them
however.

You might want to give them a phone call and see what they might have that's
not shown on the web site 410 549-7661.

Those they show on the site are GREAT and well worth the $$. Though they will
'handle' short periods of overload, I'd not do so for very long at all.  They
are 'rated' for 100% duty cycle at something BELOW the 'advertised' power
levels... e.g. the 75W dummy load is more conservatively rated (elsewhere)
at 65W, and, after having looked inside the load (I have one) I'd not want
to push my luck too far by exceeding 65W for too long a time.  They're good,
but they're NOT SUPERMAN!

73,

Tom   N0SS


At 11:22 02/24/2010, Don Nelson wrote:
On 2/24/2010 9:41 AM, Brett Howard wrote:
  If you're in a hurry you've already bought the MFJ from HRO.  If you
  want to be a little more frugal you can get an adequate one here for 12
  bucks!
 
  I know it says its a 75watt load but it will do 100 for long enough to
  get the job done and the K3 only calibrates at 50 any way...
 
  https://www.ridgeequipment.com/store/dummyloads.html
 
  ~Brett
 
  On Tue, 2010-02-23 at 10:13 -0800, Jeff Hall, W6EZY wrote:
 
  Hello all,
 
  I need help picking out a proper dummy load to use for calibrating my new
  K3.  HRO is just up the road and they carry some of the less expensive MFJ
  dummy loads -- would these be sufficient? Not looking to spend a lot of
  money, but don't want to buy junk either.  What factors should I consider?
  I'm assuming oil-cooled dummy loads are more robust, while 
 air-cooled loads
  are more compact, but you have to be more careful when operating 
 or they can
  burn up more easily.  The K3 manual says this is just a 5W test 
 and I need a
  load with low VSWR from 160 to 6.  What is considered low SWR? Anything
  under 1:5?
 
  If I can get by with the MFJ-260 for just $40, that sounds 
 reasonable to me.
 
  73 de Jeff, W6EZY
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  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2707 - Release Date: 
 02/24/10 07:34:00
 
 
The same seller is selling this dummy load for less on ebay and the
shipping is less via ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/50-Ohm-Dummy-Load-75-Watts-VERY-NICE-1973_W0QQitemZ250584212024QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a57fba238

Don, N0YE
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[Elecraft] OR - Where to go for reasonably priced Aluminum Project Boxes

2010-01-10 Thread Tom Hammond
Will keep this short.

I'm entertaining suggestions for sources of (hopefully) reasonably-priced
Aluminum project boxes, on the order of maybe 2H X 3-1/2W X 3-1/2D.

The absolute size is not terribly crucial, as long as I can fit in the PC
board that it's to house AND as long as it's large enough so I can use the
box as a heatsink for a pass transistor which will need to dissipate about
15W of heat.

PLEASE REPLY OFF-REFLECTOR... this request is pretty far removed from
Elecraft relevance!

Many thanks,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] OT - Where to go for reasonably priced Aluminum Project Boxes

2010-01-10 Thread Tom Hammond
The Subject should have indicated OT (Off-Topic), not OR... sorry.

Tom
_-

Will keep this short.

I'm entertaining suggestions for sources of (hopefully) reasonably-priced
Aluminum project boxes, on the order of maybe 2H X 3-1/2W X 3-1/2D.

The absolute size is not terribly crucial, as long as I can fit in the PC
board that it's to house AND as long as it's large enough so I can use the
box as a heatsink for a pass transistor which will need to dissipate about
15W of heat.

PLEASE REPLY OFF-REFLECTOR... this request is pretty far removed from
Elecraft relevance!

Many thanks,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-05 Thread Tom Hammond
Hector:

According to several currency calculators:

   2,014,200 JPY = $21,983.0832 USD

Whew.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 09:38 01/05/2010, you wrote:
WOW ! according that pdf 
document(http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf) If we add all the 
modules and filters price for a fully loaded K3,it will cost in 
japan 2,014,200 (two million fourteen thousand two hundred)yens,can 
anyone say how many USD is that amount,sounds like a lot

AD4C


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:


From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 9:25 PM


From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)

  WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be 
 then over 5 grands in japan with that dealer EDC?

You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories) at
http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf

Note that the pdf includes Japanese so parts of the page may not 
render properly depending on the pdf reader you may have..

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-05 Thread Tom Hammond
Jim:

At 11:53 01/05/2010, Jim Brown wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:20:07 -0600, Tom Hammond wrote:

 Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, I
 have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC
 boards.

While I appalud your willingness to share, there is another good
solution. What we really need is a stereo to mono breakout cable
that has a 3-circuit male plug wired for stereo, split to two mono
jacks.

That's PRECISELY what my adapter is!  Of course, it's not 'just' a
a cable...

Here's the problem -- Radio Schlock, Worst Buy, and their
ilk pushed the real connector mfrs out of the market with cheaply
made connectors and adapter cables, but they don't sell the cable
we need.

Agreed.  And that's why I designed my own.

The GOOD connectors are made by Switchcraft and Neutrik. In North
America, we can buy these parts from vendors like Newark, Allied,
Digikey, etc. The catch is that they cost more than a buck, and
hams can be cheap, so they think they're too expensive. They're
not -- they are of much higher quality, don't have the melting
insulation and lousy contact material problems of the cheap
connectors, and are far more robust mechanically.

The solution is simple. Simply belly up to the bar and place an
order with one of these real electronics vendors for real
connectors and build your own adapters.

Ummm... that's my kit... at least I believe it is.  Sure looks like it.

73 pal,

Tom 

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[Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-04 Thread Tom Hammond
Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, I 
have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC boards.

I've been thinking about the problems some may encounter with regard 
to ordering the specific parts (PCB-mount 3.5mm stereo jacks) for the 
splitter, and more importantly the off the wall cost of shipping 
(usually $5-$7 US) for less than 3 oz of parts (and that's per each 
order placed).  This raises the cost of the project significantly.

I already have enough orders for PC boards that I'll not be able to 
fabricate them in the Kitchen (as I often do for very small PCB 
orders), and IF I proceed with the project from this end, I'll have 
FAR Circuits make the PC boards for the project. This will increase 
the cost of the project (just a bit), BUT it'll take a load off me, 
AND it'll help keep me in Jeri's (She Who Must By Obeyed) good graces...!!!

I am proposing to completely 'kit' the project... all electronic 
parts, hardware, and PC boards... for $20 or less, delivered to US 
destinations... add $1 more for DX delivery.

My initial PCB order will be for one 'sheet' of thirty (30) boards 
(main circuit board and an 'insulator' board to prevent the main 
board from shorting out against anything on the operating desk in 
back of the K3.  To that end, I'll need a few more orders before I'll 
be able to commit to the cash outlay for the PC boards.

IF you are interested in obtaining a kit for this project, PLEASE 
contact me a.s.a.p. I will make my final decision (GO or NO-GO) by 
the end of this week.

If you are interested, you can see the docs on a previous version of 
the Splitter at:

http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html

and drop down to the line titled: External (Dual) Speaker Splitter 
for the K3.

The proposed project will be slightly smaller than that shown on my 
web page and will use 2-56 hardware as opposed to 4-40 hardware in the article.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem

2010-01-03 Thread Tom Hammond
Older K3's were susceptible to damage if a MONO plug was inserted into
the STEREO jack on the back panel.  Subsequent to that, there was both
a hardware and a software mod to new(er) K3s to eliminate the threat of
damage from that happening.

UNfortunately, I cannot quote book, verse, and phrase of exactly when
this 'factory' change occurred.  I believe it's spoken to in the K3
Mods section of the Elecraft web site... QRX... lemme check... OK...
here's the info from http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm and down
at K3 AF Output Mod Kit. Rev C:

   This modification is needed for all K3s shipped approximately
   before 01/12/09 containing either a Revision XB or Revision
   A KIO3 board. You must inspect the KIO3 board to see whether
   the modification has been made. Modified boards will include
   the leaded resistors. You can see one of the resistors by
   removing the top cover and inspecting the side of the KIO3
   board facing away from the rear panel. Photos of what the added
   resistors look like are in the document.

Hope this helps.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


At 15:12 01/03/2010, Keith Hamilton wrote:
Doesn't the manual state that a mono plug is ok? I better unplug my speaker.
I must have read wrong. Thanks a lot for the post!

Keith W8GX


On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, Dave Perry N4QS wrote:

  Tony,
 
  Same thing happened to me when I plugged my Kenwood mono speaker into the
  stereo speaker jack on the back of the K3.  I did this without 
 thinking from
  the front of the radio when I was rearranging equipment in the shack.  The
  speaker worked for a couple of days until the audio output transistor
  failed.  I could then only hear audio from the headphones.  I had 
 to send my
  K3 back to Elecraft in order to replace the audio output 
 transistor.  It was
  under warranty so they repaired it for free.  While the rig was 
 in the shop,
  I had them add the sub RX, digital voice recorder, and the IF Out 
 interface.
  So they came out okay on the deal.
 
  But I learned my lesson -- do not plug a mono speaker into the stereo
  receptacle.  It is clearly labeled as Stereo on the back, but you 
 have to be
  looking at it from that direction!  Even the manual shows it as stereo.
 
  Dave, N4QS
 
  - Original Message -
  From: N2TK, Tony tony@verizon.net
  To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:25 AM
  Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem
 
 
  Maybe someone has had this problem before and can save me time
  troubleshooting?
 
 
 
  Everything was fine yesterday. This morning (rig is always ON) headphones
  work fine. But nothing out of either internal or external speaker when I
  unplugged the headphones. I now have to turn Config: SPKR + PH to YES to
  listen out of either an external or internal speaker. But now I can't turn
  off the speakers when plugging in the headphones.
 
 
 
  Any ideas what could have happened?
 
 
 
  Tnx for any feedback.
 
  N2TK, Tony
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread Tom Hammond
Man... what a BIG discussion... whew!

Early on with my K3, I found that having two speakers (L  R) plugged into the
rear panel SPKR jack of the K3 was turning out to be a real P.I.T.A.

I had two speakers, with somewhat lengthy (though folded up and tied) leads
which extended left and right across the back of the K3, wound in/out of all
of the other wires back there as well, and BOTH leads attached to a single
stereo plug, inserted into the back of the K3.

When I wanted to move the speakers, or to take them with me for a trip or demo
I had to first unplug the plug from the back of the K3 and then 'snake' at
least one of the speakers up/down in/out of all the other accumulated wires
before I could manage to resurrect both speakers fro in back of the rig.  It
got to be a really tiring process... really quick!

I decided to fix that problem.

I designed a small PC board on which two (2) stereo phone jacks were mounted,
and then a 7 length of 2-conductor (w/shield) cable from the PC board to a
single stereo plug which plugged into the back of the K3.  The jacks on the
PC board were wired such that the RING on each jack was left unconnected and
so only the TIP and SLEEVE were connected to the cable. This way, I can plug
EITHER stereo OR mono plugs into the jacks on the PC board and not have to
worry about shorting anything on the K3 out to ground.  Additionally, and this
is the best part for me... now, when I need to remove the speakers, all I have
to do is to unplug each speaker from the PC board and INDIVIDUALLY unwrap any
wires before pulling it to the front of the desk... no longer do I have to
man-handle a big honkin' speaker, trying to unwind it from the rats nest of
wires in back of the rig.  I also have a quick and easy to unplug both speakers
from the back of the K3 if I need to do that as well.

If you like my idea, visit my web site at:  http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html
and drop down to the line titled: External (Dual) Speaker Splitter 
for the K3.

If there's enough interest, I might consider making some PC boards for sale,
otherwise, I'll be happy to make the artwork available for you to make your
own PC boards IF you're interested in doing so.  If someone else wants to make
the boards, I'll be happy to give them the artwork, too.

73,

Tom   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Julian

Been there, done that, etc. I think practically every socket on the back of
my K3 has something plugged into it.

But either I'm overlooking something, or you don't need to make up a special
connector. You can buy little adapters that have one 3.5mm stereo jack
output and two 3.5mm stereo sockets for input. I think they are made to
allow two people to listen simultaneously to an MP3 player.

Agreed... BUT... how many of them ISOLATE the RING so it doesn't 
short out when
a mono plug is plugged into the STEREO jack?  THAT is what I was trying to
avoid as much as providing two individual connections... with what I have, you
can plug in either a stereo plug (connected to a SINGLE spkr), or a mono plug
(connected to a single spkr) and still not have to worry about the long mono
sleeve shorting out the RING on the K3's input.

The TIP  GND of the K3 PLUG connects to the LEFT spkr, and the RING  GND
connect to the RIGHT spkr. But the RINGs on BOTH of the INPUT jacks are not
connected to anything.

73,

Tom

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[Elecraft] OT - Need specs for two transistors from the Reflector

2010-01-01 Thread Tom Hammond
Folks:

Sorry to bother you this early in the year I'm having problems locating
specs for two transistors I'm going to need to replace.  Tried Googleing
for them but didn't find much specific info...

  BZ AE1  TO-92  I've seen several spec sheet references to is, but they
 all seem to come from websites that my AntiVirus doesn't
 want to let me visit.  Hopefully someone with a decently
 current NTE substitution book might be able to help.

  ST 9014C TO-92 The closest I can come to this is an SS 9104C (Mouser)
 which may or may NOT be the same device.  Again, hopefully
 an NTE book might help.

Please if you have ANY info, respond OFF-REFLECTOR to keep the 'noise'
down to a dull roar.

Happy New Year to all.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Diversity and filter selection

2009-12-22 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Steve:

WORST CASE... if you attempt DIVERSITY reception (during which both RXs are
supposed to be receiving on the same (exact) frequency, you will probably
note a slight 'beat' between the two received signals.  This will usually
present itself as a (usually slow) side-to-side (assuming a 2-speaker
configuration) movement of the perceived received signal at a rate determined
by the amount of frequency mismatch between the two filters... usually on the
order of 3Hz or less... often 1Hz or less.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


At 10:41 12/22/2009, you wrote:
What is supposed to happen if one uses unmatched filters in main/sub rx?
Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message -
From: Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 10:43 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Diversity and filter selection


 I use my K3 in diversity receive 90% of the time. I have matched 2.7 KHz
  filters in both receivers. The sub receiver has only the one filter the
  main
  also has 500 Hz, 6 KHz and 13 KHz filters.
 
  I have had no issues when the two receivers are using different filters. I
  may be lucky. I understand that when operating in a CW contest environment
  that I will be disadvantaged because of the sub Rx using a broad roofing
  filter. I am not a contester.
 
  Your mileage may vary and you can always add filters later.
 
  Mike Scott - AE6WA
  Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
  NAQCC 3535
  K3-100 #508 / KX1  #1311
 
 
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.722 / Virus Database: 270.14.117/2581 - Release Date: 12/22/09
03:09:00

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Re: [Elecraft] Spurious

2009-12-22 Thread Tom Hammond
Mike:

I personally prefer UNamplified Motorola Mobile speakers, available regularly
on EBay for $10 or less.

The AMPLIFIED Motorola speakers are also good, but require external power.
They can be obtained from EBay for $15 or less. If you buy the amplified
speakers, check my web site for modification info.

http://www.n0ss.net/motorola_amp_spkr_mods_04jul2009.pdf


73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 10:25 12/22/2009, you wrote:
Let's see if I can generate another 1000 posts  O:-) .

What external speakers are popular with K3ers?

73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Solder Help

2009-12-20 Thread Tom Hammond
Bob:

I bought a Sennheiser Headset to use with my K3, and the stereo headset
audio plug is defective.  I wanted to put on a new plug and discovered to my
dismay that my 60/40 solder does not stick to what looks like a copper wire.
Any suggestions?

Chances are that it might be copper 'tinsel' (thin flat copper strips, twisted
with cotton thread) to give the cord a lot of flexibility.

If it IS tinsel, any time you attempt to solder to it (as-is) you'll burn the
threads first and they'll foul the copper for taking up solder.

The ONLY way I've found to satisfactorily solder to tinsel is to wrap the tip
of the tinsel with a VERY FIND BARE COPPER WIRE (like a single strand 
of stranded
#24 wire... e.g a #30 or so bare copper wire).  Wrap the turns around the tip
of the tinsel and wrap the turns up against each other.  Once wrapped, solder
to the wrapped wire. This will quickly accept solder and transfer the heat to
the copper in the tinsel quickly enough that it'll accept solder before the
threads get to burn.

Good luck,

Merry Christmas,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Solder Help

2009-12-20 Thread Tom Hammond
Bob:

I should have included the same note that Fred, K6DGW, suggested.  If you just
flat cannot manage to solder the wires, go to your friendly hardware store and
find their 'brass hobby tubing' assortment.  Select the smallest I.D tubing
into which you can slip the individual headphone wire(s).  Cut off a short
(1/4 - 3/8) chunk of tubing, solder a 'connecting wire to it, insert one
of the (3) headphone wires into the tubing and CRIMP it tightly.

Good luck,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Regarding a carrying box for the K3

2009-12-17 Thread Tom Hammond
Alan:

I went on line to order but they want $32.21 to ship one $29.95 item to
California (UPS ground).  I don't think so...

Too bad - looks like a nice unit.

Find a couple/few others to add to your order.  That shipping was 
virtually IDENTICAL to what they charged me to ship three (3) in a 
single (rather large) box.

Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] Regarding a carrying box for the K3

2009-12-17 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Alan:

GREAT PRICE!!!

Thanks for the link.  And yes, that does appear to be the VERY SAME box!!!

I hope they have a BUNCH of them!!!

73,

Tom

At 21:50 12/16/2009, you wrote:
For me shipping was about $18 which I thought was a bit too much to
ship.  So, I went on eBay today looking for a case/container for my K3.
I found a padded case for a projector that I think will work for my needs.

But, in my search I found the same aluminum case without the foam for
$32.99 with free shipping.  You can check it out at
http://tinyurl.com/ybqotk3

73,

Alan  N5NA


Alan Bloom wrote:
  I went on line to order but they want $32.21 to ship one $29.95 item to
  California (UPS ground).  I don't think so...
 
  Too bad - looks like a nice unit.
 
  Al N1AL
 
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] Regarding a carrying box for the K3

2009-12-16 Thread Tom Hammond
Back on November 13th, Dave, K1WHS, reported that he'd bought a 
military surplus aluminum box (item #138401) from www.colemans.com, 
and that he'd managed to satisfactorily shoehorn his K3 into the box.

Following Dave's lead, I ordered three (3) of the boxes, one for 
myself, and two for other locals who also had K3s.

I waited several weeks for delivery of the boxes, but to no avail.  I 
called Coleman's and found that someone had dropped the ball... 
having taken my order, but failed to process it any further.  The 
boxed went out that day and were received three days later.

Today I donned my surgical mask and latex gloves, picked up the 
electric carving knife, and had my way with the energy-absorbing foam 
in one of the boxes.  The 'surgery' went well, and much more swiftly 
than I'd have ever expected.  I now have a very nice, and certainly 
VERY STURDY, aluminum carrying box for my K3, with the K3 firmly, and 
safely cradled within it's loving arms.

If you're interested in seeing the final product, drop by my web site 
at www.n0ss.net and go to the K3-specific page.  There you'll find a 
small PDF giving all the gory details.

I think the purchase of the box is going to be very well worth the 
price AND the wait.

Thanks Dave for posting the availability of these boxes to the reflector.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 shuts off

2009-12-13 Thread Tom Hammond
Mike:

Sounds to me as if his P/S is going into a momentary over-current protection.

When this state occurs, it is in response to a request for the P/S to provide
current in excess of that for which it was designed to supply.  For instance,
if the P/S built-in over-current protection circuit is designed to provide
22A (sightly more than the rated 20A) of current) but the device connected to
it is requiring 23A of current, the over-current protection will immediately(!)
drop the output voltage from 14 V down to somewhere around 0.3-0.6 VDC and
the resulting current will go to zero (or nearly zero anyway).  You can
demonstrate this on a P/S with over-current protection by intentionally
shorting the two main power cables together.. BUT DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU
ARE CERTAIN YOUR P/S HAS OVER-CURRENT PROTECTION BUILT-IN.  Although most
'modern' supplies DO offer this feature, some may not, and shorting the leads
on a supply which did NOT offer it, might be somewhat DISASTROUS!!!

Anyway... if your K3 is asking for even a little bit more current than the
P/S can supply, the supply will shut down for an INSTANT... until it thinks
the overload has been removed (as when no excessive current is being drawn)
and then it'll normally immediately return to full output voltage/current
again.  Of course, by that time, the K3 appears to have shut down and then
remained off (as a result of the built-in 'brown out' firmware in the K3!!!).
The 'brown-out' firmware senses when the K3 has suffered even an instantaneous
loss of power and will place the K3 into a state of suspended animation until
power is fully cycled off/on via the [POWER] button. It's a protective measure.

The solution to your friend's problem is one of two options:

  1 - Purchase a heavier-duty supply which can supply 25A 
(intermittently) before
  it goes into over-current protection...

  2 - Reduce requested power output (probably only required on certain bands
  which require just a bit more drive to produce 100W output) and live
  with the existing P/S.

Personally, I'd run with option #1.

Now, to being able to SEE this problem, to confirm that it exists...

The switch from normal operation to over-current protection can be so fast that
neither meters nor digital displays will not catch it. Neither will 
your eyes...!
BUT if you can hang a scope across the DC output from the P/S, set it 
to a very
SLOW SWEEP SPEED, so you can see a single trace run across the 
screen, and THEN
put the rig into TX at 100W of requested power, IF the problem is a momentary
over-current problem, you'll see the instantaneous drop of voltage 
easily on the
o-scope trace.

Good luck,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


At 21:47 12/12/2009, you wrote:
I was at a friends today, looking at his K3. It's in the 1000 range of
serial numbers, not a kit.

If power is set above 95-96 watts, the rig shuts down instantly when you
transmit (at least in CW and if you press the TUNE button. Didn't try it
on any other modes).

His power supply reads 14.6V, it's a 20A supply, but we didn't read it
under load. Does the K3 have the ability to display voltage and current
draw?

I downloaded and installed 3.68 firmware, but the problem was there before.

Clues and hints, please?

73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] Improving Circuit Board Connections

2009-12-06 Thread Tom Hammond
Thanks Ken,

However the link you provided appears to be busted... however maybe
the following link will give readers some usable info:

http://www.stabilant.com/techt02h.htm

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 12:17 12/06/2009, Ken Miller, K6CTW wrote:
All,

I was talking with one of our vendors this past week when he mentioned a
product that their network folks and others used when they had issues
with a circuit board not working as advertised or when it had
intermittent connections.

The product that they use is called Satbilant.

_http://www.amazon.com/D-W-Electrochemical-22S-50mL-Stabilant/dp/B001E50P5A_


Thought this might be of interest to the K3 builders as it could be very
useful especially if the K3 was going to be operating in high vibration
environments or was going to go on a DXpedition.

73 - Ken Miller, K6CTW
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[Elecraft] OT - HRD link to http://www.dxsummit.fi/DxSpots.aspx

2009-11-12 Thread Tom Hammond
Trying to get HRD (v5 build 2356 beta) to connect to:

   http://www.dxsummit.fi/DxSpots.aspx

but I can't find the correct port address to us for the link.

Does anyone have a known good link and port) address?

Also seem to be missing several features (country name and bearing) in
this version of HRD, but I'm assuming that this may be because I'm
using a beta release.  Not sure though.

I'd have asked on the HRD forum, but I've never been successful in ANY(!)
of my numerous attempts to join the group.

Thanks,

Tom  N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Central Tendency of K2 PCB Solder Pad Widths?

2009-10-29 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Jeff:

I don't believe it has to be quite that 'analytical' an 
approach.  The intent of my comments in the article were to try to 
urge builders to use a soldering iron tip width which would not 
easily overlap the pad width, thus promoting the potential for 
dragging excess solder between pads or pads and lands.

I've built numerous K2's and other Elecraft rigs and, for the most 
part, I think I've just about always used a 1.6 mm width tip.  I 
believe I did go to a somewhat more narrow tip when I built the KX1, 
because it was more densely populated, and thus more prone to 
offering chances for shorts between pads/lands.

The idea is to just use a tip that's large enough to carry as much 
'heat' to the joint as possible, while not being so wide that it 
easily allows you to overlap the pad with the width of the tip.

Hope this helps.

73,

Tom Hammond  N0SS

At 21:09 10/28/2009, Jeff T. Casey wrote:
Hi gang,

This document on the Elecraft web site,
http://bit.ly/solderingtips
says,
[Soldering iron] tip width will normally be in the range of 1/32 
(0.79mm) through 1/8 (3.2mm), depending upon the width of the pad 
to which you are soldering. The width of the tip selected should be 
about 75% to 90% of the width of the pad.

What would you estimate to be the median or modal (or just typical 
;-) solder pad width on the K2's circuit boards?

Or, to be more direct, which of the following soldering tip widths 
would be best for use in building a K2: 0.80 mm, 1.19 mm, 1.60 mm, or 2.40 mm?

Or am I just splitting hairs?

Thanks very much, 73  72,
Jeff
NE2J (formerly WB5GWB)

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[Elecraft] MMARC (all K3) Special FunXpedition to Frankenstein MO for Halloween

2009-10-28 Thread Tom Hammond

As in a number of years past, members of the Mid-MO ARC (MMARC), Jefferson
City MO, will sponsor a Special FunXpedition to Frankenstein MO for
Halloween. We will operate Special Event Station W0O.

I had a really kewl image of the special QSL card to insert here, but I
can't attach it because the reflector won't accept file attachments or
embedded images, sorry!

We will begin operation (with luck) about 3 p.m. (2000Z) this Saturday
(October 31st) and run until about 8 a.m. (1300Z) on Sunday (November 1st)
morning. We will have two (2) stations, both Elecraft K3's, on the air as
long as there are QSOs to be made. One station will be CW and the other
will be SSB.

I don't have exact times/frequencies, but I'm kinda guessing we'll
(probably) TRY(!) to hang out around the following frequencies:

  CWSSB
80M  3545   3963
40M  7045   7245
30M 10125  10110
20M 14045  14330
15M 21045  21345
10M 28045  28345

Please try to work us while we're at Frankenstein... we have a GREAT
new QSL card made to confirm QSOs from this event.  IF you work us,

___BE CERTAIN WE HAVE YOUR CALL, NAME AND QTH 'IN THE LOG'___...

We will QSL 100% for all contacts made, and YOU DO NOT have to send
anything(!) to us... no s.a.s.e., no 'green 'stamp', and (please) NO
QSL (we have no place to archive QSLs received and they will just get
in the way, sorry).

NOTE: QSLs will be mailed to your address AS SHOWN IN QRZ.COM!!!  If
that address is NOT correct, now's a great time to fix that with the
FCC.  And if you don't have time to fix it, BUT if you do work us,
___BE SURE to give the operator YOUR CURRENT MAILING ADDRESS___.

There will be yet another FunXpedition to Frankenstein MO as well...
the Warrensburg (MO) Area Amateur Radio Club Inc (WAARCI), will
operate Special Event station N0F from another site in Frankenstein MO
over the same approximate time period.  I believe this group WILL
require, at least, an s.a.s.e. to obtain a confirmation QSL from N0F.
QSL contacts with N0F to WE0G at the address shown in QRZ.COM

73,

Tom Hammond  N0SS   K3 #8
Kent Trimble K9ZTV  K3 #00021

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Volume

2009-10-22 Thread Tom Hammond
Gary:

NEXT TIME it occurs, and BEFORE you do anything 
else, find a signal and not the S-meter 
reading.  THEN re-cycle whatever must be recycled 
to obtain the expected audio output level and 
THEN re-check the S-meter. If the signal level 
has not changed, then the problem is (most 
probably) in the AF section. If the signal is now 
reading higher on the S-meter, then the problem is RF-related.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 01:01 10/22/2009, you wrote:
Hi

Again today I had soft audio when I turned the K3 on.

I pressed the ATU button and the volume became 
loud and has remained at that level.

Here are the settings.

7.102.00 LSB
Width. 2.50
FC 0.50
Hi. 1.75
LO. 0.00
Filter 2.1 8 pole
(Others installed are also 8 pole 13,6,2.8 and 400)
Antenna is 80M full wave loop and has a 1.2:1 dip on this frequency)
AF knob was at quarter PAST the hour as the 
audio is generally very low and has been for a long time.

After the change in volume it sounds great at the 11 o'clock position.

FW ver 3.41

Hope this helps someone figure out what may be 
causing this up/down audio change.

K3/100 #679

73's
Gary
VK4WT/P
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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[Elecraft] W3FPR Fixed AF Output PC Boards... last one(s) available

2009-10-13 Thread Tom Hammond
Folks:

I'll try to keep this short (but I've NEVER been able to do that before, dunno
why I think I can do it now)...

I while back, I wrote that I had a limited supply of the W3FPR Fixed Level AF
Output PC Board (for the K2) available and that when they were gone, there'd
be no more available.

Of course, I received a slug of orders, which decimated the supply..!

One of my customers ordered two (2) boards which I duly mailed off to him.

They were never delivered. (FIRST TIME I've actually had a non-delivery, out
of several HUNDRED previous shipments).  So I sent him the LAST TWO PC boards
in stock (I'd held them back as 'backups' in case his first shipment didn't
arrive.

Imagine my amazement when he called to say that the second shipment FILED to
arrive as well!

I'd asked him to exercise (even more) patience, and to give another 7-10 days
for the package to be delivered.

Though neither the first  nor second envelopes were delivered to 
their destination,
they did (finally) come BACK TO ME... marked, NO SUCH ADDRESS - 
CANNOT DELIVER..!

Turns out the purchaser made a typo when he sent his mailing address to me,
reversing two digits in the street address.

Sooo... I've now sent two PCBs to him (at the correct address) and I have two
PC boards remaining.  BOTH of the remaining PC boards are potentially COMMITTED
to folks who I had to (initially) turn down for orders.

I have sent an 'availability' note to one of those folks, BUT I've managed to
lose the name/address of the last remaining potential purchaser.

Owing to the honesty of hams, I'm now asking that IF you were the person I had
to turn down on the purchase, PLEASE CONTACT ME IMMEDIATELY at N0SS.NET... I
have your PC board waiting to go out to you.

If it turns out the one or both of those potential purchasers no 
longer want the
PC boards, I'll announce that they are again available.

Told ya, I couldn't type a short note!  Sorry!!!

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] W3FPR Fixed AF Output PC Boards... last one(s) available

2009-10-13 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Matt:

I'm CCing the reflector in case someone else has the same question.

W8ESE wrote:
Tom, do you have the artwork/CAD file that you could make available if
someone wanted to reproduce these?
OH ABSOLUTELY!

I'd be HAPPY(!) to provide you (or anyone else for that matter) with the
artwork required to produce a PC board via the photo-etching process.

I can supply BW artwork at either 1X or 2X (or some other magnification
if you prefer), and at 300 or 600 DPI resolution.  I usually send these
out as PDFs which can be printed directly onto either plain white paper
or onto clear acetate (for directly making a negative if you do your own
contact exposure of the negative to home-etched pre-sensitized PC board).

I'd need to know whether you want a photo positive (black where copper
is to remain), or negative (white/clear where copper is to remain).  The
process (KPR-4) which I use required a photo-negative image, but many
others use a photo-positive working resist.

If you can accept a PDF and print your own master images, there's no charge
for the images. IF I have to print and mail them to you, there will be a
nominal printing/mailing charge required.

I have a number of other PC board designs for which this offer holds as well.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS
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Re: [Elecraft] speakers

2009-09-29 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Dan:

I am looking at speakers for my K3. I have looked
At the various computer speakers but don't know
Which of the many available would work best. Does
Anyone have an opinion on which set is best :-).
Also should I get a set with a sub?

Some (possibly many) PC speakers include internal amplifiers which can be
susceptible to RFI which results in thumps 'n 'bumps in the night.

I have settled on a pair of (UNamplified) 8-Ohm Motorola mobile speakers
I bought off EBay for $5 each, plus shipping.  They are a very dark brown
case, which is almost dark enough to be taken for black, and match the K3
nicely.

Trying top plug two (2) separate (UNamplified) speakers into the single
1/8 stereo jack in the back of the K3 was getting to be a PITA... I had
two wires going different directions (L and R) RIGHT OUT OF THE BACK OF
THE K3, which made things a bit 'busier' than I wanted.  So I fabricated
a 'splitter' for the speakers... a single 2-wire/shielded cable (about
8 long) to a 1/8 stereo plug goes into the back of the K3. The cable
terminates in a small PC board containing two (2) 1/8 STEREO jacks of
which only the TIP and SLEEVE are used (RING = N/C). This allows me to
plug in speakers which are terminated in mono OR stereo jacks and to not
have to worry about possibly plugging a mono plug into the stereo jack
on the K3.  Yeah, I know, there have been mods for the K3 to prevent
damage if I mono plug was plugged into the stereo jack, but this helps
to ensure that I never do it regardless of the preventative mods!  It
also helps to get the two wires (to the two speakers) out and a bit away
from the immediate read of the K3, making wire 'congestion' a bit easier
to handle.  Thought I've not done so (yet), if there's any interest in
the 2-speaker 'splitter', I'll put the info out on my web site for general
access.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] Regarding availability of the W3FPR Fixed-Output AF PC Board

2009-09-18 Thread Tom Hammond
Greetings:

Sales of the W3FPR Fixed-Output AF PC board have again slowed.  Additionally,
I have a limited quantity remaining... actually, only eight (8) boards remain.

Once these boards are gone, I'll probably NOT reorder more boards to be made
by FAR Circuits.  However, if someone else might want to take up the task,
I'll be happy to make the PCB layout available to you and I'm sure that Fred
at FAR Ckts would be just as tickled to make them for you as he would 
be for 
me.

For what it's worth, one 8 X 11 'sheet' of these PC boards contains 
about 
54 (6 X 9) PC boards.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Decoder for use with K3 and PW-1

2009-09-10 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi George:

UNfortunately, if you look at the SCHEMATIC of the PW-1, you will see that the
stepped band/data voltage (paraphrasing one of my daughters) goes in 
one ear and right out the other), and is NEVER TOUCHED (internally) 
by the PW-1 as is passes from one ACC connector to the other...

I can (I believe) still provide a copy of the relative portions of 
the PW-1 schematic if you wish to review it.  Can't include it here 
due to reflector restrictions on attachments, etc.

It appears that the ONLY way to get the PW-1 to actually ACT upon the 
K3's band data is to be able to convert it from (K3) BCD to PW-1 CI-V format.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 10:10 09/10/2009, gdaug...@stanford.edu wrote:
Joe wrote...

  Unfortunately the PW-1 will only work with Icom serial
  (CI-V) data.  It does not respond to the old stepped
  DC voltage like the 2-KL and 4-KL.

If one takes a look at the manual for the PW-1, it apparently has 
provision for the
old stepped DC voltage as well as for the CI-V.  Both the ACC-1 and ACC-2
connectors have a band data signal.  But maybe it doesn't work for 
some reason[??]

73,

  George T Daughters, K6GT
CU in the California QSO Party (CQP)
October 3-4, 2009


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[Elecraft] K3-to-Yaesu FL-7000 Inter-connection Docs Available at www.n0ss.net

2009-08-24 Thread Tom Hammond
Folks:

Thanks to Joe, W4TV, and Vidi, ZS1EL, I now have a document available on my
web site giving the inter-wiring info for mating the Yaesu FL-7000 HF Amp
to the K3.

If you are interested, go to www.n0ss.net, then select the K3-Specific web
page and drop down a bit. The new document is immediately following the
documentation for mating the Yaesu VL-1000 (Quadra) HF Amp to the K3.

And, if anyone is interested in some very nice, but economical dual-level
paddles, checkout Vidi's (ZS1EL's) links to his VIP Paddles at the bottom
of my General Interest web page.

73,

Tom HammodN0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Spectrogram Software

2009-08-08 Thread Tom Hammond
David:

The version of Spectrogram which matches the K2 Xfil alignment procedures
which I have written (and the alignment docs themselves) is available at

www.n0ss.net

go to the main page and then select the K2-Specific page.  About half
way down the page, you'll find Spectrogram v5.1.7 and the alignment
docs avaiable for downloading.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 21:27 08/07/2009, you wrote:
Does anyone have a good link Spectrogram Software?  The link from the
Elecraft site and one other one I've found are under construction with
no links to the software.

TNX AGN
de
kd0r
David

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Re: [Elecraft] Off-Topic: CW sending vs. receiving speed

2009-08-07 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Duane:

Is it logical to assume that a person's CW sending speed approximates
their copy speed?

I can't help but assume this, and so when I call CQ and get a return
caller sending at half the speed which I called or sending extreme
farnsworth, I almost always lower my speed in order to be considerate.

In general, yes.  One should assume that if a station calls CQ at x-WPM,
he is soliciting a reply at or near that speed.

Likewise if you call CQ at 20 WPM you would normally expect to get a
reply at somewhere around that speed.

However... there are those (and I currently have one in my Advanced CW class)
who can readily copy 20-22 WPM, but who are still learning to send 'clean' CW
with a keyer, BUT they can send decent 13 WPM CW with a straight key.

I ALWAYS try to match my speed to that of the other guy, regardless of his
sending speed.  Sometimes that means that we have a 45-minute 15 WPM QSO,
only to find at the 45th minute that he actually can send/copy 50 WPM and
for some odd reason he just chose to send 15 WPM when he answered my CQ...
So we just had a QRS QSO when we could have held it at a much higher speed
which would have still suited both of us... G

IF you have any reason to believe that the other guy can send/receive at a
higher speed, you can always ASK him if he's able to send/copy faster.
I also have (several) students who can send (decent CQ) at a speed faster
than they can copy.  They won't speed up their sending unless asked to do so
and if asked, they tell the other guy to please NOT increase his speed to them
faster than they can copy (but 'pressing' their copy is good for them, to
some extent).

Hope this helps.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] Updated docs - K3-to-Yaesu_Quadra_Inter-wiring

2009-07-12 Thread Tom Hammond

I have just updated some of the information for the documentation of my
K3-to-Quadra Inter-wiring which is on my web site.

Mainly, the updates were to WARN potential users of the info about the
'GOTCHA' with regard to using the appropriate 8-pin DIN plug required
by the Quadra's BAND DATA 1 connector.

The Quadra REQUIRES that you use a 262-degree pin pattern 8-pin DIN plug
at this location, rather than the more commonly available 270-degree pin
pattern plug.

The 262-degree DIN plug is commonly referred to as a 'horseshoe pattern'
plug, but it is NOT always stocked by many electronics houses.

If you attempt to use a 270-degree pattern plug in the 262-degree pattern
socket, you will likely break the socket!!!

Anyone who has downloaded previous versions of these docs, might want to
update to the latest version.  And, as available, I will try to (eventually)
provide a source listing for the connectors required for this interface
cable.  At present, I can find all of the connectors BUT the 262-degree
plug, and I'm still looking for a source for that connector.  Once I find a
source, I will add that info to the docs.

IF YOU KNOW OF A RELIABLE SOURCE FOR THE 2620-DEGREE 8-PIN DIN PLUG, PLEASE
DROP ME A NOTE WITH THE INFO.

Revised docs are available at:

http://www.n0ss.net/k3-to-quadra_11jul09.pdf

This is 1.3 MB file.

73,

Tom Hamond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] THANKS FOR THE LINKS - K3-to-Quadra Inter-Wiring Connectors

2009-07-12 Thread Tom Hammond
MANY THANKS to all those who responded with links to a number of 
apparently viable sources for the somewhat specialized (and a bit 
scarce) 262-degree pin pattern 8-Pin DIN connector required by the 
Yaesu Quadra HF amplifier when fabricating the inter-connection cables.

For your reference, I have the following links to potential sources 
of the connector:

Yaesu Parts, and Yaesu dealers
The RF Connection, http://www.therfc.com/dinconn.htm
Show Me Cables, http://www.showmecables.com/DIN-Plug.html
NKC Electronics, 
http://www.nkcelectronics.com/8-pin-262-degree-circular-din-conne.html
Universal Radio, http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/parts/dinconn.html

These links will be reflected in another soon-to-be-released update 
to the K3-to-Quadra docs which will appear on www.n0ss.net soon.

Your help is greatly appreciated.

73,

Tom   N0SS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 to VL-1000 AMP

2009-07-09 Thread Tom Hammond
Larry:

Go to:  http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html

then download:

 http://www.n0ss.net/k3-to-quadra_docs_v1r9.pdf

and

 http://www.n0ss.net/k3-to-quadra_comments_v1r2.pdf

Hope it helps.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 11:13 07/09/2009, you wrote:
Anyone driving a Yaesu VL-1000 (Quatro) with a K3?
Wonder if there is an interface available to drive the AMP for Band
Selection.

Thanks in advance.

de K2GN/Larry

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[Elecraft] Headphone distribution amp/splitter which was mentioned a short while back...

2009-06-29 Thread Tom Hammond
Greetings fellow Elecrafters...

A while back, maybe 2-3 weeks ago anyway, someone (in EU, if I recall) posted
a link to a headphone amp/splitter box which they're recently purchased.

I visited the link, but seem to have lost it in the hubbub of getting ready
for Field Day 2009... BUT I's really like to find the link again.

Actually, I;m not all that interested in THAT device, but it included info on
the op amps they were using for the individual headphone amplifiers, 
and when I followed that link, it took me to a comment about some 
even more robust
op amps which were available for the same purpose... THOSE op amps are what I
really am looking for, but this may be best way to find them again.

Thanks,

73,

Tom HammondN0SS

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[Elecraft] FOUND - Link to the headphone splitter/amp...!

2009-06-29 Thread Tom Hammond
Thanks to all who replied.

The link I was looking for was:

http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/HA400.aspx

And now, hopefully, I'll be able to retrace my steps to finding the link to
the other op amp which is supposed to be much more robust in this type of
service.

Thanks again folks.

73,

Tom

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[Elecraft] K3 Beta F/W Release 3.19 for FD Ops... In case you missed the announcement

2009-06-23 Thread Tom Hammond
Folks:

If you're taking your K3 out to Field Day this year, AND especially 
if you're going to have unfamiliar (I call 'em 'fiddley-fingered') 
ops using the rig on SSB (especially), there is a feature recently 
released in BETA firmware release 3.19 which you might be interested in.

Over the past years, one of the MAJOR(!) problems our Field Day SSB 
stations have had to contend with was uninitiated SSB ops messing 
with the MIC GAIN, COMPRESSION LEVEL, and POWER OUTPUT LEVEL... 
trying to achieve an indicated 100W on the output meter... Of 
course, you and I know that virtually all built-in power meters in 
just about any rig ('cept the K3) indicate some form of AVERAGE POWER 
OUTPUT, especially on SSB.

Given the ballistics of the needles in the power meter and the 
vagaries of the human voice, when you're actually putting out 100W of 
RF, you're lucky if you see an INDICATED 25W-30W on the 
meter!!!  Some newer rigs offer PEAK OUTPUT indications, but not 
many.  As a result it's (almost) human nature to want to try to TURN 
THE WICK up as far as possible, to get that last milliwatt of RF out 
the back of the rig... UNfortunately, we do this not realizing that, 
in almost all instances, we have managed to mangle our transmitted 
audio so badly that the op on the other end can't make heads or tails 
out of the exchange we're trying to convey.  Our Bad!!!

Enter he K3's most recent feature addition:  MIC / CMP / PWR LOCK...!

Now, you (the K3 owner) can preset the MIC GAIN, COMPRESSION, and 
OUTPUT POWER LEVEL to levels you know are suitable for  your K3 and 
your users, and you can LOCK those three settings so that no amount 
of button twiddling by (most) users will be able to crank them out of range.

You can read the docs on the new release and then download firmware 
v. 3.19 from Elecraft now.

Just a thought.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta F/W Release 3.19 for FD Ops... In case you missed the announcement

2009-06-23 Thread Tom Hammond
Just like in Karate Kid... Lock ON / Lock OFF... it toggles.

Tom

At 14:41 06/23/2009, you wrote:
How do you unlock it?  The release notes say to tap 1 in CONFIG:PWR_SET to
lock, but I don't see a description of how to unlock it there.  I haven't
tried this...

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom Hammond
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 12:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Beta F/W Release 3.19 for FD Ops... In case you
missed the announcement

Folks:

If you're taking your K3 out to Field Day this year, AND especially
if you're going to have unfamiliar (I call 'em 'fiddley-fingered')
ops using the rig on SSB (especially), there is a feature recently
released in BETA firmware release 3.19 which you might be interested in.

Over the past years, one of the MAJOR(!) problems our Field Day SSB
stations have had to contend with was uninitiated SSB ops messing
with the MIC GAIN, COMPRESSION LEVEL, and POWER OUTPUT LEVEL...
trying to achieve an indicated 100W on the output meter... Of
course, you and I know that virtually all built-in power meters in
just about any rig ('cept the K3) indicate some form of AVERAGE POWER
OUTPUT, especially on SSB.

Given the ballistics of the needles in the power meter and the
vagaries of the human voice, when you're actually putting out 100W of
RF, you're lucky if you see an INDICATED 25W-30W on the
meter!!!  Some newer rigs offer PEAK OUTPUT indications, but not
many.  As a result it's (almost) human nature to want to try to TURN
THE WICK up as far as possible, to get that last milliwatt of RF out
the back of the rig... UNfortunately, we do this not realizing that,
in almost all instances, we have managed to mangle our transmitted
audio so badly that the op on the other end can't make heads or tails
out of the exchange we're trying to convey.  Our Bad!!!

Enter he K3's most recent feature addition:  MIC / CMP / PWR LOCK...!

Now, you (the K3 owner) can preset the MIC GAIN, COMPRESSION, and
OUTPUT POWER LEVEL to levels you know are suitable for  your K3 and
your users, and you can LOCK those three settings so that no amount
of button twiddling by (most) users will be able to crank them out of range.

You can read the docs on the new release and then download firmware
v. 3.19 from Elecraft now.

Just a thought.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] N0SS / K0ETY (GOTA) Field Day with four (4) K3s...

2009-06-22 Thread Tom Hammond
As for the past couple of years, the MMARC (Mid-MO ARC) will be using 
an ell-Elecraft Field Day setup.

In past years, it was multiple K2/100s, then a combination of K3s and 
K2/100s, but this year, if everything holds together, we'll have four 
(4) K3s, one each at CW, SSB, GOTA, and 6M VHF.  With several 
K2/100's as backup, if needed.

Our antenna system is pretty simple:  Multi-band dipoles 
(80/40/20/15/10) running North-South, and strung end-to-end, with 
about 50 feet of separation between the ends of the three 
dipoles.  Having the antennas in-line and end-to-end helps up take a 
bit of advantage from whatever null might appear directly off the end 
of each antenna.

In years past, we've used a mish-mash of Elecraft and YeaComWood rigs 
and always suffered from front end overload of the YeaComWoods, and 
the Elecraft's hearing 'hash' from the YeaComWoods... but for the 
past 2-3 years, using all Elecraft rigs, those two types of 
interference have been significantly reduced... to the point that 
sometimes we find ourselves operating all three HF rigs on the same 
band, with no bandpass filtering other than that which is built into 
the rigs themselves.  Oh, we might notice a bit of desense, from the 
next closest HF rig, but nothing nearly as bad a what it used to be, 
and nothing to prevent us from operating wherever we are.

If you plan to use multiple HF rigs at your FD site, remember that 
there's NO HELP of you're using verticals, and less help if you 
haven't taken some effort to minimize direct radiation fro one 
station's antenna into those of the other stations.

If you have an automatic (e.g. auto-tune) transmatch installed in one 
or more of the stations, BE AWARE that RF from another nearby station 
can come in on (and appear as reflected power even though you're not 
transmitting on THAT radio) the antenna/coax of the auto-tune 
transmatch station and cause the transmatch to try to 
auto-tune...!!!  So, TURN OFF THE AUTO-TUNE FEATURE before you start 
your FD operation!!!

73 and have fun.

Tom HammondN0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscopes

2009-05-21 Thread Tom Hammond
Jim:

Just GOOGLE for 'tektronix 475' and then select one or more of the
links.

I quick search shows that the Tek 475 is a 200 MHz o'scope.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 10:06 05/21/2009, you wrote:
How do you know what the frequency rating of a scope is?
What is the rating of my Techtronics 475?
We used them at work for required adjustments to tolerances of 2/10
nanoseconds.

Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP

- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Jon Kåre Hellan hel...@acm.org
Cc: 'Elecraft List' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscopes


Jon,

For use on the HF bands, go for a 'scope rated at 100 MHz or higher, and
be certain to use probes that are also rated for 100 MHz or more.
The frequency rating of a 'scope is the point where the vertical
response is down 3 dB, so you will not be able to do valid voltage
measurements at frequencies beyond about 1/3 of the frequency rating of
the 'scope.  The 50 mHz 'scope will give valid voltage measurements up
to about 16 MHz while the 100 MHz 'scope will be good up through 30 MHz.

If good measurement of voltages is not important to you, then the 50 MHz
'scope may be OK, even though the voltage (signal amplitude) may be
attenuated, it will still show a proper waveform up to its rated
frequency and often beyond - unless the input waveform is a pulse or a
square wave where the rise time is one of the important parameters - for
most amateur radio purposes, that is not important.

Analog vs. Digital - no comment, but I prefer the real time analog
'scope, no potential  digital artifacts to deal with.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jon Kåre Hellan wrote:
  Hi
 
  I'm thinking about buying a scope. I've seen many people recommend
  getting an old analog scope, but they're big! I borrowed a compact 100
  MHz digital scope from work, and it was nice. 50 MHz scopes are a lot
  cheaper, though.
 
  Will I regret getting a 50 MHz scope instead of a 100 MHz one?
 
  73
  Jon LA4RT
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Price promo on K3 at Dayton?

2009-05-15 Thread Tom Hammond
Nope, but if you order at Dayton, for (slightly) delivery, there's no STATE TAX
(OR shipping, I think).

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 09:51 AM 5/15/2009, you wrote:
You guys at Dayton - is there hamfest promo pricing on the K3 at Dayton?

Jerry W4UK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mic up down buttons

2009-05-14 Thread Tom Hammond
terry:

Because some folks, like me, must have their PC keyboard to the side of the
desk (at 90-degrees from the desk) when contesting... this places the rig
at my left side, rather that right in front of me, and requires me to either
turn 90-degrees (at least 45 deg. anyway) on order to adjust the VFO, or to
bring the radio up close to me and at about a 45-degree angle to the desktop
so I can readily reach the VFO dial with a cramped arm position.

Using Up/Dn buttons, or something like the Griffin PowerMate would allow us
to remotely 'tune' the VFO... having the control right at or next to the
keyboard, without having to go into any contortions.

73,

Tom   N0SS


At 01:26 PM 5/14/2009, you wrote:
I must be missing something here.  For the life of my I can't figure why
you would want to be changing frequency while transmitting CW (or any
other mode)

73 de Terry KK6T
K3# 2965

Bill W4ZV wrote:
  One of our Field Testers has done this, but I would not be surprised to see
  Elecraft eventually offer something similar as a standard product.  Below
  are the FT's comments (sans callsign) since I doubt he wants a lot of
  queries about it.
 
  73,  Bill  W4ZV
 
 
  On 2008-12-13, at 13:30 ,  wrote:
 
 
 This is one for the lowest-priority end of the missing-feature list.
 I built a box with two pushbuttons wired to the DOWN and UP pins on the
  front panel MIC connector, to simulate a remote VFO A knob. It works
  nicely: tap to step, hold to scan. But, taps while sending CW via KEY mess
  up the beautiful dots and dashes (dare I say: just like touching almost
  any control on an Orion II while sending :=). Strangely, holds do not
  affect the CW at all.
 
 
 
  I've just interfaced the Griffin PowerMate multimedia USB control knob
  with my Mac contest logging program (SkookumLogger). I use it in two modes,
  controlling either the RIT/XIT offset or VFOA frequency. In either mode,
  twirling the knob smoothly varies the K3 frequency at a reasonable rate for
  tuning around a CW run frequency. There's a PowerMate-related issue that I
  can live with: it operates by pressing command keys for you; if you twirl
  the knob a lot it queues up all those presses and there is no way to stop
  it from stubbornly playing back the complete queue.
 
  I've also got the PowerMate rigged to clear the offset (copies VFOB to VFOA
  when controlling VFOA frequency). And one other gesture does a 
 Swap, which
  is tough to explain in less than a paragraph.
 
  Changing the K3 frequency this way does *not* affect CW. I'm now a Happy
  Ham, no longer waiting for the hoped-for K3 remote control unit :-)
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mic up down buttons

2009-05-14 Thread Tom Hammond
Terry:

Generally NOT while transmitting, but sometimes, esp. while QRP (e.g 
in ARRL CW SS)
I'll find that I'm smack on top of (well... UNDER) a bigger signal, 
making it hard
for the other guy to hear me... if I jump freq. even a small bit 
while NOT trans-
mitting, the other guy might miss me, but if I 'slide' up/dn a bit 
while sending my
(or his) call at the start of my reply, he'll usually follow me and 
we can complete
the QSO... I seldom move more than 100 Hz (ever) when I do this, but 
having a signal
actually being transmitter (for him to hear/follow) seems to help to 
ensure that he
is able to track where I've gone.. otherwise, to have moved (possibly 
out of his
(very narrow) B/W setting with no signal for him to track, results in 
a lost QSO.

73,

Tom   N0SS


At 01:40 PM 5/14/2009, you wrote:
Hi Tom,

I can understand the remote tune feature but why would you be doing 
that WHILE you're transmitting?

73 de Terry KK6T

Tom Hammond wrote:
terry:

Because some folks, like me, must have their PC keyboard to the side of the
desk (at 90-degrees from the desk) when contesting... this places the rig
at my left side, rather that right in front of me, and requires me to either
turn 90-degrees (at least 45 deg. anyway) on order to adjust the VFO, or to
bring the radio up close to me and at about a 45-degree angle to the desktop
so I can readily reach the VFO dial with a cramped arm position.

Using Up/Dn buttons, or something like the Griffin PowerMate would allow us
to remotely 'tune' the VFO... having the control right at or next to the
keyboard, without having to go into any contortions.

73,

Tom   N0SS


At 01:26 PM 5/14/2009, you wrote:
I must be missing something here.  For the life of my I can't figure why
you would want to be changing frequency while transmitting CW (or any
other mode)

73 de Terry KK6T
K3# 2965

Bill W4ZV wrote:
  One of our Field Testers has done this, but I would not be 
 surprised to see
  Elecraft eventually offer something similar as a standard product.
Below
  are the FT's comments (sans callsign) since I doubt he wants a lot of
  queries about it.
 
  73,  Bill  W4ZV
 
 
  On 2008-12-13, at 13:30 ,  wrote:
 
 
 This is one for the lowest-priority end of the missing-feature list.
 I built a box with two pushbuttons wired to the DOWN and UP 
 pins on the
  front panel MIC connector, to simulate a remote VFO A knob. It works
  nicely: tap to step, hold to scan. But, taps while sending CW 
 via KEY mess
  up the beautiful dots and dashes (dare I say: just like touching almost
  any control on an Orion II while sending :=). Strangely, holds do not
  affect the CW at all.
 
 
 
  I've just interfaced the Griffin PowerMate multimedia USB control knob
  with my Mac contest logging program (SkookumLogger). I use it 
 in two modes,
  controlling either the RIT/XIT offset or VFOA frequency. In either mode,
  twirling the knob smoothly varies the K3 frequency at a 
 reasonable rate for
  tuning around a CW run frequency. There's a PowerMate-related 
 issue that I
  can live with: it operates by pressing command keys for you; 
 if you twirl
  the knob a lot it queues up all those presses and there is no 
 way to stop
  it from stubbornly playing back the complete queue.
 
  I've also got the PowerMate rigged to clear the offset (copies 
 VFOB to VFOA
  when controlling VFOA frequency). And one other gesture does a 
 Swap, which
  is tough to explain in less than a paragraph.
 
  Changing the K3 frequency this way does *not* affect CW. I'm now a Happy
  Ham, no longer waiting for the hoped-for K3 remote control unit :-)
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] External speakers for K3?

2009-05-12 Thread Tom Hammond
Brendan:

For general communications use I am very fond indeed of the speakers
Motorola made for their various mobile rigs over the years, They are
very cheap, efficient and sound great for good quality communications
audio. These are not Hifi speakers but for speech / CW they do a superb job.

Mostly they seem to be a pretty close match in size and colour for the
K3 too.

I agree completely.

Some of them are 2 Ohm though, The ones I use with My K3 at the moment
are 2 Ohm ones, Since I do not know for sure if the AF amp in the K3 is
happy driving an impedance this low I stuck a 2Ohm 2W resistor in series
with each speaker and still have more than enough audio in my shack.

I have seen these available in 4-Ohm and amplified variants too. Pretty
much every radio in the shack is connected to a Moto speaker and I still
buy them at rallies, collecting stuff I might need someday must be habit

Anyone know if the can K3 drive a 2Ohm speaker without bad stuff
happening ?

In a recent e-mail from Lyle Johnson, KK7P, he stated that, while not
'designed' to drive 2-Ohm loads, the K3s AF amp should probably work
OK BUT that if one attempted to drive the speakers too hard, and the AF
amp attempted to draw excessive current (and starts to overheat), the amp
would go into a protective shut-down mode, rather than risk damaging itself.

For what it's worth, MOST (possibly all nowadays) of the newer, plastic-cased,
Motorola NON-amplified speakers are now 8-Ohms... there may be some 4-Ohm
speakers in the newer-style plastic ('fitted back') cases, but I suspect that
almost all have now been switched to 8-Ohm speakers.

I'm using a pair of 8-Ohm Motorola speakers on my K3 and it sounds just fine.

Cheers,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] K3 / N1MM Logger Question - Using Up/Dn Arrow Keys to tune VFOs

2009-05-03 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Folks:

Been using N1MM Logger for the past several years since most of my DOS PCs
have bit the dust and TRLog doesn't support Windoze (yes, I'm well aware that
TR4W was written for Windoze, but it's not 'ready for prime time yet).

When I WAS using TRLOG (way back then...) I become mildly addicted to using
the PgUp/PgDn buttons to tune my main VFO instead of having to reach over
(or around) the keyboard to manually access the VFO knob of the radio.  Of
course, N1MM Logger offers this feature with the Up/Dn Arrow keys... BUT...
I'm finding that N1MM seems to send the VFO tune command so INfrequently
to the radio that it'll literally take 10 SECONDS or more to get the K3 to
tune 1kHz in either direction e.g. BRUTALLY SLOW QSYing, and certainly
NOT useful in the heat of battle.

I've been in contact with one of the N1MM programmers who has laid all of
the blame on my 1GHz CPU PC, saying it's too slow, or that it's 'bogged down'
with too much other stuff loaded. 1GHz might be too slow (though I shouldn't
be) but when I'm running N1MM Logger, it's the ONLY program running!!!  So
the problem's NOT being overloaded with other conflicting software.

Has anyone else attempted to use the Up/Dn Arrow features of N1MM Logger to
tune their VFO?  If so, did you find it as slow to act/respond as I have
found it to be?  I find it pretty difficult to lay all the blame on the PC
at this time.

73,

Tom Hammond  N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Who is going to Dayton?

2009-04-24 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Mike:

WE0H wrote:
I imagine there will be a bunch from this reflector attending
Hamvention? I will be there Friday before noon.

I'm planning to try to help out at the Elecraft booth on Friday and Saturday
afternoons for at least a couple hours (probably 1-3 or possibly 2-4 p.m.

I'm hoping to meet a lot of Elecrafters while there.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS



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[Elecraft] K2 - External T-R Relay Driver Kits AGAIN AVAILABLE

2009-04-19 Thread Tom Hammond
Now certain why ,but for some reason, all of a sudden I have received 
a 
sizeable number of requests for the full kit version of my K2 
External 
T-R Relay Driver kit.

I had not planned to offer kits again for this project, only bard bones
PC boards, however I have ordered enough parts to make up a limited 
number 
of complete kits (16).

Depending upon how well these kits sell, I may consider another run, but
only time will tell.

Bars PC boards for the kit will be available for quite a while to come.
I still have 50-60 boards in stock.

If interested, please visit:

www.n0ss.net/index_k2.html  (about 1/3 of the way down the page).

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

  

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Error message

2009-04-07 Thread Tom Hammond
Jim:

As always, probably to look in your MANUAL!

It's on page 67 of my (rev. D) Manual. In the Error Message list.

73,

Tom   N0SS


At 15:56 04/06/2009, you wrote:
Whenever I turn on my K3 I see ERR PL2 go across the screen then
everything else seems to come up fine.

What is this error message?

Jim, W4TE
K3 #353
++
James R. Kauten, MD

kau...@atnex.net
++




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

2009-04-04 Thread Tom Hammond
R:

For me, the best choice was a couple Motorola UNamplified Mobile speakers
from EBay.

I managed to find a matching pair of NEW speakers for $10 + shipping.

You'll want TWO (2) speakers so you can take full advantage of the AFX
features of the K3.

My particular speakers were model HSN4018B, but I have several others
which appear to be identical save for a possibly different color, which
show model HSN4000A.

They work great and I like having the removable mounting mounting bracket
as well.

Note: You could use the AMPLIFIED Motorola mobile speakers as well (lots of
modification info for these on my web site at www.n0ss.net), but you really
don't need the 5W-15W of amplified audio unless you're in a really noisy
location.  Additionally, any time you use an amplified speaker you always
run the chance of getting RFI into the audio lines of the speaker... not a
fun problem to have to find/fix.

73,

Tom HammondN0Ss


At 10:38 04/04/2009, you wrote:
I'm using an old car stereo door speaker now. Any one tell me the 
source for a good speaker for the K3. Any enclosure tips too.

k9il
K3 #2626
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[Elecraft] Docs for connecting the Yaesu VL-1000 (Quadra) HF Amp to K3 available

2009-04-02 Thread Tom Hammond
Good morning... didn't want to post this yesterday for fear that someone might
think it was an April Fool joke... G

I have just placed on my K3-specific web page:

  http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html

copies of my illustrated wiring interconnections between the Yaesu VL-1000
Quadra HF Amp and the K3, and a separate document containing the personal
observations of Kent Trimble, K9ZTV, regarding the implementation of his
Quadra with his K3.

If you download the illustrated interconnection PDF, please also download
Kent's (PDF) comments (immediately below the interconnection PDF) as well,
they are well worth reading.

If you have any problems or questions, please drop me an e-mail.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS
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[Elecraft] How to record Audio on K3

2009-03-31 Thread Tom Hammond
One item which has (i believe) been touched upon, but may not have been
explained deeply enough is the SIZE of the resulting audio file if you
use the default record settings often offered by many (most) audio
recording softwares.

I've found that it's not necessary to use the highest fidelity recording
parameters when recording SSB voice or CW... and possibly digital as well.

Quite often your recording software will default to record parameters like

   Record Sample Rate:  44,100 samples/sec

Sample Format:  32-bit float

   Recording Channels:  Stereo

Export Format:  WAV (Microsoft 16 bit PCM)

Using these defaults will result in a very large (many MB per minute 
of 
record time) WAV file, even if you only record for 1 minute... .

IF given the opportunity to change these defaults, I'll try to select:

   Record Sample Rate:  11,025 samples/sec

Sample Format:  16-bit (even 8-bit if available)

   Recording Channels:  Mono

Export Format:  WAV (Microsoft 8 bit PCM)

These settings will result in a very usable quality recording and at about
10% the file size of the default... usually 4 MB for a 5-minute recording.

Just a thought!

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] OT - Idiom Press CMOS Super Keyer 4 (and LogiKit 4) - Command Card

2009-03-08 Thread Tom Hammond
Good Morning Folks:

Since we have had a somewhat spirited discussion of the virtues of various
external Keyers for use with the Elecraft rigs, I thought I might offer a
succinct command card which I developed for laminating, cutting out, and
then sticking directly to the top of the case for the Idiom Press CMOS Super
Keyer 4 and LogiKit 4 keyers.

The command card measures 2.5 X 4.3 and I attach a trimmed copy directly
to the TOP of the keyer case using double-stick tape. It fits nicely within
the margins of the top cover.

While I cannot print and laminate the cards for you, I can however supply
FREE) the card info in PDF or in MS Word (.DOC) formats. The two files will
be ZIPped into a self-extracting .EXE file which you can RUN to extract the
contents.

The card makes a really nice reference point which you can access without
having to turn the keyer upside down to read the (somewhat limited) info
printed on the bottom of the case.

If you are interested, just drop me a note and I'll send both file formats
to you.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] K3 can now be readily mated to the Yaesu Quadra HF Amp

2009-03-04 Thread Tom Hammond
Thanks to pinout info from Joe, W4TV, and Kent, K9ZTV, the K3 can now be
fairly easily mated up to the Yaesu Quadra HF Amp.  Joe provided the
main set of pinouts and Kent offered up the key info for getting the
Quadra to go into auto-TUNE mode to allow its ATU to operate when the K3
was Keyed.

K9ZTV is now Field testing the configuration, but so far, things look very
good, and appear to be stable with respect to ALC control of the K3 drive
power. We're still working on getting the Quadra's ALC output voltage level
to that precise setting which will allow the K3 to be run at a drive level
lower than about 80W yet still adequately drive and control the Quadra.
The ALC works nicely, but we'd still like to be able to use about 40W of
drive so the ALC doesn't have to work nearly as hard to control the drive.
I believe we will find the 'sweet spot', but it will probably be a
combination of the K3's EXT ALC setting and the ALC SET value from the
Quadra.

If you would like to see a PDF of the current interconnection illustration,
please drop me an e-mail and I'll send the file to you... can't send PDFs
through the reflector... sorry.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: panel fitment and alignment?

2009-03-04 Thread Tom Hammond
James:

There can be a 'cumulative' fit error sometimes.

When I assemble a new K3, I leave all of the screws which attach to the
2D connectors (incl. those going thru the RF board holes), slightly loose
until I do the final 'snugging' of everything somewhere toward the end of
the main assembly process.

This usually helps to minimize any possibility of cumulative fit errors.

If you have your K3 all built, try loosening all of the EXTERIOR screws
which go into a 2D connector, and then retighten them.

Good luck,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 20:25 03/04/2009, you wrote:
Dear group,



While I have all panels securely mounted to the point that I don't have any
major issues, I have noted that my top and rear panel alignment has been
slightly off.  This is in the sense that when securing those particular
panels down, the screw holes don't align themselves with the holes drilled
in those particular panels.  Has anyone else noted such an anomaly, and if
so what was the remedy?  Now that I have the rig working as expected, I
figured I'd just loosen the 2D fasteners on the main board enough to get the
holes in the rear and top panels aligned up correctly.



73,

James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)

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Re: [Elecraft] Sl OT: Heil headset problem

2009-03-01 Thread Tom Hammond
John:

I'm pretty certain you can buy just about ANY PIECE of replacement parts
directly from Heil:

http://www.heilsound.com/amateur/products/parts/

About 2/3 of the way down the page... $8...!

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 13:09 03/01/2009, you wrote:
After two years, I find I have an intermittent in the headphones cord
to my Heil headset (purchased from Elecraft).  Is there an easy
fix...as in replacement of the cord?

Thanks!


John
AB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Julius:

I'm using #8 in my mobile installation and had to get it down to a more
suitable gauge for the APP connectors.

I made a couple butt-joint connectors from short (1) lengths of brass
'hobby tubing' obtained at the local hardware store. I took a short piece
of the #8 wire with me and selected the smallest diameter of brass tubing
that would still accommodate the stripped #8 wire.

I then cut two 1 lengths, inserted one #8 wire (stripped to show 1/2 of
wire into the tubing, flowed more than ample solder in from the other end.
Let it cool while I did the other conductor. Returned to tube #1 and heated
it back up while gently inserting the 1/2-stripped end of my #10 wire
(which does fit the APP 45A connector). Let solder set and cover with a
1-1/2 length of heatshrink and yer good to go!  Works like a champ.

I could have used 'real' #8 butt-join connectors, but they were too large
and 'clunky' for my liking... the brass hobby tubing works great, and it'll
handle well over the 20A-30A needed by most rigs and accessories.

73,

Tom   N0SS



At 07:46 02/16/2009, Julius Fazekas wrote:
I have some really nice 8AWG cable for my power line. Connecting to 
the PS is not a problem, but haven't figured out an elegant means 
to drop it down to use with 30A PP connectors. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Windy:

Those short #10 pigtails need to be very flexible. You can go to a car
audio shop and by extremely flexible wire by the foot. If it almost
fits the connector, snip off a few strands.

The stuff I got is speaker cable but I use it for power leads. Very
nice.

I used a 4-6 length of #10 RED-BLK power cable (from somewhere unknown)
which was quite flexible and worked great.  And all(!) of the wire strands
fit nicely into the trough of the 45A connector.

I used the West Mountain Radio crimper and it did a really nice job on the
45A (and other sizes) of connector. It would probably have choked had I
tried to use it on #10 solid copper and possibly on hard-drawn copper, just
Like Tim, KA0OUV, noted.  I've not broken any dies... yet!  G

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 stacked over KAT100

2009-02-16 Thread Tom Hammond
John:

Elecraft offers (probably for a price) two (2) little devices which screw
to the top back edge of the bottom case and into which the feet of the
upper device fit.  Works great.

Unfortunately, I don't recall what the heck they're called, but I'll bet
Lisa or someone else around there will know.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 15:42 02/16/2009, you wrote:
Hi

I don't recall where I saw this but I think someone posted a smart
way to keep the K2 from slipping slowly off the back ot the KAT100
while hitting the buttons.

Can someone direct me to it?

Thanks!

John
AB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external qro keying line

2009-02-12 Thread Tom Hammond
The K3's T-R line output (KEY OUT) can switch up to 200VDC @ 5A... so it will
easily switch the +120VDC @ 15-30mA from the SB-220.

However, it will NOT SWITCH a NEGATIVE T-R line voltage UNDER ANY 
CIRCUMSTANCES!
Users with amps which offer a negative T-R line control voltage will have to
provide alternate switching (relay, or solid state).

73,

Tom   N0SS

phones, mic,
line in, and line out


At 10:13 02/12/2009, Lee Buller wrote:


H  I thought the transistor on the K3 doing the switching is 
pretty tough.  I guess we are talking about older amps and not the 
ones that use 12 volts to switch.

I have done the following to  Radio Shack sells a 5v reed relay 
that is pretty darn fast and has good specs.  I just used a dropping 
resistor from a 12 volt line in series with the reed relay and 
worked great for years.  I think I used a 180 ohm resistor.  Worked 
great.  Not QSK, but I don't like QSK anyway.  Messes with my head.  HI

Lee Buller - K0WA



In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If 
you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. 
If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who 
has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine?
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Re: [Elecraft] FLx ON cmd

2009-02-06 Thread Tom Hammond
Rudolf:

Are you clicking on [APPLY] before you exit  the K3 Utility program?
APPLY sends the info to the K3... without it, you have only changed
the settings in the Utility and nowhere else.

73,

Tom   N0SS


At 07:21 02/06/2009, you wrote:
Hello,

After choosing the filters used for each mode with
the FLx ON command, settings are lost when i power
OFF my K3.

What i'm doing wrong?

Thank you for your help.

73 QRO fr Rudolf, HB9ARI

PS K3 #1212 uC 02.78 Filters:
FL1 2k8
FL2 2k7 (original)
FL3 1k8
FL4 0k4
FL5 0k25
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread Tom Hammond

Ron:

I've seen one other knob broken... as a result of someone having tightened the
setscrew WAY(!!!) too much!  In fact, I rounded off the corners of the little
Allen wrench trying to get the darn thing loose.

Folks (esp. those building their K3s) should be instructed to 'snug' the
setscrews down, rather than TIGHTEN them.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 18:45 02/03/2009, you wrote:
Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the RF or AF 
gain break?  Came in, turned on the rig and reached up and turned 
the RF gain down and low and behold the little knob fell off the 
shaft.  It was broken right where one of the set screws was 
located.  I see there is no brass bushing in the knob for the 
setscrew to be threaded into.  Do you know where some better quality 
ones can be purchased?


Ron NA9F
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Re: [Elecraft] Beware! (Learn by doing?) :-)))

2009-01-27 Thread Tom Hammond
Jim:

A few days ago I was messing around with the K3 (as usual) and 
having set the AF gain
control at about 11 O'clock with the AGC set for fast I wondered 
what would the audio
results be if I switched OFF the AGC with that particular setting.

BIG MISTAKE! When the AGC is OFF the resulting audio thru the 
speaker almost blew out
my left-eardrum!!! In other rigs that was never a concern because it 
would never
happen (PERIOD!)

Why such a HUGE difference in audio between on/off states of (AGC) 
in the K3???

With all due respect, pal, that's what you get when you turn the Automatic GAIN
Control OFF... you no longer have automatic gain 'leveling' and then 
are completely
dependent upon MANUALLY controlling the AF GAIN!

However, there IS a setting in the K3 CONFIG menu [AF LIM] which will allow you
to limit the amount of output when you turn the AGC off.

Hope this helps,

73,

Tom HammondN0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 temperature

2009-01-26 Thread Tom Hammond
Well...

I must agree that, since the addition of the KRX3 in my K3, the internal temps
HAVE risen on the order of about 10 deg. C overall... However, this is NOT
anything I didn't expect... in fact, I seem to recall that Wayne even posted
(somewhere) that KRX3 users would notice higher internal temps.

What bothers me, a bit, is that my cooling fans seem to be running a LOT more
frequently, and at higher speeds, than they did several firmware versions ago.

I've mentioned this on the K3 Field Test reflector, but no one has risen to
comment upon my observations.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


At 23:06 01/25/2009, Matt Zilmer wrote:
Hi Barry,

I installed the KRX3 in #24 here last week.  My experience with temps
is different from yours.

Ambient temp:  22C
FP temp: 23C
PA temp 34C
(this is right now - in the middle of NA winter)

Chassis exterior doesn't have temps any different from before the KRX3
went in here.  At least not so far.

This was after the K3 had been sitting on for most of the afternoon.
Now, it's possible that your ambient temp is different, given that you
are set right in the middle of Summer there.  However, I recorded FP
and PA temps no higher than 36/48 here last summer.  This was due to
the fact that I was running a lot of high duty cycle PSK31 QSO's at
the time.  The ambient open-house temp was 35C, which is a little
warm.  And believe me, the fans were running!  We were open-house
because of a power outage, and with solar power the only inconvience
was sweat.

You might want to look at how your cables are dressed, esp. the one at
the back from ANT receptacle to the KRX3.  If your fans can't get
started, this might explain the high-temp problem.  If the cable is
laying across the fan(s)

Also - make sure the KRX3 shield box isn't contacting anything on the
RF Board.  Check your DC power supply's metering to see if it pulls
appreciably more current with the KRX3 installed.

It seems unlikely that the KRX3 is the problem.  But I'm not in your
shoes.

73,
matt, W6NIA

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 04:42:30 +, you wrote:

 Since I fitted the second receiver, my K3 is running a whole lot warmer,
 even on receive with the sub receiver turned off.
 
 
 
 In particular the front half of the right hand side panel is almost hot and
 the front right hand corner of the top cover is also very warm.
 
 
 
 Before the second receiver installation the PA and FP temperatures ran about
 the same, in the high 20's if I remember. Just now the FP temperature is
 nudging 44 degrees C and the PA is 36 C. This is after the rig has been on
 for several hours, receive only, although it quickly heats up to these
 temperatures when it is switched on.
 
 
 
 I am guessing that the air flow and thus the cooling ability of the rig has
 been significantly impaired by the KRX3 and this is causing the very high
 temperatures. I wonder if this has any long term reliability implications ?
 
 
 
 I also wonder if others are experiencing similar temperature issues with
 KRX3's installed as I do not recall seeing any postings on the subject.
 
 
 
 Barry Simpson  VK2BJ
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Re: [Elecraft] CW ZERO-BEATING WITHOUT BUTTON PUSHES

2009-01-21 Thread Tom Hammond

Keith:

The trick I've used for decades is to set the sidetone just a bit louder than
those signals I'm listening to.  Then, when I zero the received signal, I tune
it in to the point that it (audibly) disappears beneath the sidetone of the
same frequency... if it's NOT zero beat, you'll be able to hear the offset. If
it is zero beat, it'll be hiding behind the sidetone.

I (think I) can provide a short WAV file to demonstrate if you have difficulty
following the above verbal description.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 12:32 01/21/2009, Darwin, Keith wrote:

Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary=_=_NextPart_001_01C97BF6.9C293F59

Really?  I always try to tune CW by ear and I'm amazed at just how 
far off I am once I check it against the spot tone.  I never get it 
right without some help.


I suspect I'm not alone.

- Keith N1AS -
- K3 711 -


--
one's preferred sidetone pitch is likewise instantly recognizable 
when a signal is being tuned in and hits that pitch.


73,

Kent  K9ZTV

web page: http://www.elecraft.comhttp://www.elecraft.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Spot - No Spot

2009-01-15 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Randy:

Wayne is aware of reports of this glitch and is attempting to reproduce
it on his K3 so he can properly address the problem.

In my personal experience, if you 'peck' at the [SPOT] button, you'll
usually get only the BEEP, but if you're a bit more 'assertive', (but
not so assertive that you HOLD it), pressing the button a bit longer,
you'll get both beep and tone... of course, of you over-do things,
you'll go into SIDETONE SET mode... G.

Thanks,

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 17:19 01/14/2009, Randy Moore wrote:
Lately I've noticed that occasionally when I hit SPOT I get the beep and
VFO B says SPOT, but there's no tone.  It's sometimes hard to reproduce,
and may have to do with how quickly I release the button - the quicker I
release, the more likely it is to happen.  But when it happens, the part
of the code that puts SPOT in the VFO B display thinks I'm spotting, but
no tone.  I'm running the latest beta SW.  Not sure when this began to
happen...

Puzzled,
Randy, KS4L
K3 #2006, K2 #337
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Re: [Elecraft] Installing caps on rf board of K-2 Questions

2009-01-09 Thread Tom Hammond

Larry:

The Downloadable K2 Manual Rev G is a 'searchable PDF'm which means you can
search it for references to components you can't find.

1 - I had expected that C75 would be installed, but it is not.  I 
suppose it is installed later or do instructions overlook it?


Page 73 of the Rev G manual, under Uninstalled Components, you will find C75
listed... it's supplied with the K160RX kit.

2 - After searching 5 or 6 times I simply can not find any location 
for C165 (.01) or C177 (.022) to be installed.  Am I blind or are 
they really missing?


Search for C165 and continue hitting Enter until it shows you the image of
the component locations on page 164 of the manual. Then look for the blue-
highlighted component (C165), just to the read of X5and to the left-read of
L34.

Similarly, immediately behind header J7.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS



Any help will be much appreciated.

Larry N4QY
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: component location on circuit diagram

2008-12-25 Thread Tom Hammond

Dave:

Just did that mod two days ago.

Here's what I did if I can recall clearly.

1) download and view the set of K3 schematics... specifically the one
   labeled KIO3 AUDIO I/O BOARD, page #12 of 43 in the K3 schematic
   file set.

2) You'll be looking for the lines coming from J8 (Spkr), and specifically
   lines labeled SKP_L, SKP_R. Following  these lines all the way to the
   left of the schematic, you'll find that they connect to pins 1 and 4
   of the 16-pin header connector.

3) You'll also want to identify a grounded pin on the header connector.
   I chose pin #10 (MIC C)ommon, since it was directly 'wired' via a
   hard-wired line back to the ground foil.

4) Now, take your first resistor, lay it against the PC board and bend
   (and trim) its leads such that they will lay against pins 4 and 10
   of the 16-pin header connector. Solder into place.

5) Lay the 2nd resistor up against the first and bend/trim its leads to
   connect to pins 1 and 10. Solder.

Done

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


At 18:18 12/24/2008, you wrote:

Happy Christmas, all.

What better time than the final hours of Christmas Eve to apply the 
mod, recently described by Wayne, that prevents damage to the audio 
output chip if a mono jack is inadvertently plugged into ext. sp. 
instead of a stereo jack?


Before commencing, I decided to locate C2 and C3, the two 470uF AF 
output coupling capacitors on the circuit diagram - and that's where 
I came off the rails.  I can't find them!  I know they are 
physically on the main RF board and sit between the AF amp on the 
DSP board and the KIO3, but scrutinising the maps has taken up a 
couple of hours, and I've become obsessed with finding them.


Can anyone please help put me out of my misery?...pass the bottle, please!

Season's Greetings to all and TIA.

Dave L  G3TJP
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[Elecraft] A K3 Variation of SKN

2008-12-24 Thread Tom Hammond

Our radio Club, Mid-MO ARC (Jefferson City MO), is inviting ALL locals
(and spouses) who are either CW ops or who are currently taking one of
our two CW classes to come over to the home QTH of one of our members to
help us celebrate SKN.

We'll have numerous old/new straight keys on display, a station available
for all ops to use, and snacks and soft drinks for all.

The 'event' will run from about 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. local New Years Eve.

We hope to work many Elecrafters during this time.

A variety of calls will be used, but if you receive a QTH of Jefferson
City MO, you'll know it's gonna be one of us operating.

Needless to say, the MMARC heavily(!) promotes the use of that Ancient
Mode... CW.

Merry Christmas to all.

Tom   N0SS 


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Re: [Elecraft] Article on Elecraft kits

2008-12-09 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Chuck:

The MVDXCC web page is a bit busy... and the link to the newsletter might
be missed by some.  The link directly to your article is:

   http://www.mvdxcc.org/newsletter/newsletter.PDF

And the article starts on page 6 of the newsletter. GREAT ARTICLE!

THanks.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 10:43 12/09/2008, ni0c wrote:

Several weeks ago, I reported here that my article,
Experiencing Elecraft, describing the KX1, K2,
and K3 kits was appearing in the November issue
of the K9YA Telegraph.

The article has been reprinted in the December
issue of The DX Hog, the monthly newsletter
of the Mississippi Valley DX and Contest Club,
and can be downloaded in .pdf form from:
http://www.mvdxcc.org/

73,
Chuck Guenther  NI0C

K2/10 s/n 5853
K3/100 s/n 1061




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[Elecraft] Running an ICOM PW-1 Amp with the K3

2008-12-01 Thread Tom Hammond

I'm about to loan my K3 to another local ham who currently has an IC-7800
and PW-1 amplifier.

His IC-7800 has been sent in for service so it's temporarily out of 
the 
picture. However the PW-1 is still in play and this local is gonna want

to use it with the K3.

Is anyone running a PW-1 with their K3?  If so, please contact me a.s.a.p.
so I can exchange some info with you.  Specifically I need to know what it
took to interface the two devices and to get them to function without any
hiccups.

Appreciated.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AFX

2008-11-30 Thread Tom Hammond

Arie:


During the CQWW CW we used my K3 at PI4D and tried out the AFX.

Very nice feature when the frequency is as crowded as in the CQWW. 
Pity the sidetone (monitor) is normal mono.


ONLY if you are using a single speaker.  With dual speakers, AFX works nicely!

I suggest that if AFX is enabled the monitor audio is also in 
AFX-sound so you can stay 'in flow.


73,

Tom   N0SS
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Re: [Elecraft] External speakers?

2008-11-30 Thread Tom Hammond

Tim:

Personally, I like the UNamplified Motorola Mobile Speakers.  I 
bought a pair of

them a month or so ago for about $9 each, not including shipping, off EBay.

They're 8-Ohm (wish they were 4 Ohms though) but give a very nice sounding
audio and the black color goes nicely with the K3.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 16:32 11/30/2008, you wrote:

I would like to use two external speakers with my K3 setting them up 
one on each side of the radio. Has anyone found something that 
somewhat matches in color and size to the K3 and has a good 
sound?  Seems like Kenwood used to make a smaller speaker that might 
work. Would like to hear from anyone who has a similar setup.


Thanks
Tim
NZ8J

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.comhttp://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.11/1820 - Release Date: 
11/29/2008 6:52 PM

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Re: Fw: [Elecraft] Interfacing K3 to TenTec QSK

2008-11-21 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Rich:

Similarly, I (originally) tried keying my rig (at that time, a TS-930S) via
the KEY input of my Alpha 76PA which had been retrofitted with the QSK from
an Alpha 78.

I experienced the same report(s) and was actually able to see the choppiness
and 'crud' on my CW waveform when allowing the amplifier's QSK to key the
exciter.

The problem was NOT that of the QSK having been retrofitted to the non-QSK
amp but that of the original design of the keying scheme. Tried a real
Alpha 78 (OEM QSK installed) and had the same problem.

Moved the Key to the exciter and allowed it to key the AMP's T-R line and
NEVER again had a problem. The TS-930S also had a built-in slight delay in
generated RF following T-R line closure.

I now key my K3 and allow it to key the QSK amp, again, with no complaints
from ANYONE, and the keying is as clean as a pin.

Cheers,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 15:53 11/20/2008, Richard Ferch wrote:

I used exactly that setup with my K3 and a Titan (425) during a guest
operation as VE2OJ in the CW Sweepstakes (Winkeyer to key in on the Titan,
key out from the Titan to the K3). After the contest I had one report from a
local amateur of choppy CW, which I interpreted as possibly an indication
of some shortening of the CW elements. It didn't seem to be bad enough to
hinder copy, as I did not have an unexpected rate of repeat requests, and
there were no comments on the keying during the contest.

If I were using that amplifier again in QSK mode I would try to set aside
some extra time before the contest to look at the CW on a scope to see
whether any keying compensation was called for.

73,
Rich VE3KI


- Original Message -
From: Tim Heasman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Interfacing K3 to TenTec QSK
Amplifiers/AutomaticAntenna Tuner


 Hi All,

 Connect a keyer to key in on the Titan and use key out from the Titan to
 key the K2.  There will be no timing problems doing it that way.

 73

 Tim

 gm4lmh


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - How to get more headphone output.

2008-11-17 Thread Tom Hammond

Must admit that I've never been completely 'thrilled' with the performance
of my 10+ year old Heil ProSet cans when used with my K2 or my K3.

I've almost always had to crank up the AF Gain higher than that which gave
more than ample AF output to the attached speakers.

I've even gone to the point of considering trying to replace the OEM
headphone elements with some small 8-Ohm speakers... haven't done it (yet)
but it's certainly been on  my agenda to research.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


At 16:31 11/16/2008, Bill W4ZV wrote:




Barry N1EU wrote:

 My Heil ProSet is 200 ohms and my max AF Gain is also 9-10 o'clock like
 Bill.  Make sure you have the config menu setting for AF Gain set to HI


Just FYI my AF GAIN is set to LO, and I still have plenty of gain.  I'm not
sure about the actual impedance of my Heils but I've never had any problems
with a TS-930S, FT-1000MP, Orion or the K3.  They were a little weak when
used with my K2 however.

73,  Bill

--
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3---How-to-get-more-headphone-output.-tp1506562p1507314.html

Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] SS CW from N0SS

2008-11-04 Thread Tom Hammond
Well, I didn't do was well as I'd hoped, but it's not the fault of 
the radio (K3).
The operator's getting a bit long in the tooth and was feeling the 
effects of our

local radio club's Halloween Special Event operation from Frankenstein (MO) as
W0O.  Even though I didn't stay the night (Friday night), I didn't 
get much sleep

before the SS and I crapped out an hour before the end of the contest.

I was hoping to break the 100k point barrier this year, but just 
didn't have the

stamina to get there.

I missed three sections: ND, MD, and NWT... to my chagrin. Was really hoping
for a Clean Sweep... one of the ARRL SS Brooms would have certainly looked nice
on the wall of my shack (IF you could find it).

Congratulations to KR2Q and several others who beat me quite handily 
in class Q.


Station: N0SS
Class: Single Op QRP
QTH: MO
Operating Time (hrs): 21

Summary:
 Band  QSOs

  160:
   80:  161
   40:  227
   20:  146
   15:   12
   10:

Total:  546  Sections = 77  Total Score = 84,084

Man... I hears a BUNCH of K3s in this year's SS... a number of folks took the
time to say, Great Signal... RIG???  When I replied K3, I very frequently
got the same response in reply...

I had no severe problems with my K3... the only one problem I did have was
self-inflicted in that I failed to set a CONFIG parameter to allow the K3 to
NOT disable RIT every time I change bands... there IS a CONFIG parm to allow
RIT to remain enables across band changes and I'd managed to forget that fact.

Well... I did have one other problem... the K3's filtering...

The filtering was so darn good that I tended to forget that I can't slide my
QRP signal up against a big QRO station (calling CQ) and then expect anyone
else to hear me when _I_ start to CQ as well... I seldom heard the other guy,
regardless of how strong he was, but his big signal overshadowed mine on the
far end almost every time I tried CQing.

Sometimes having great filtering might not be the best thing to have... heheh!

95% of my contacts were from operating SP as opposed to CQing... I 
just started

at the bottom of a band and worked (almost) every station I called as I tuned
up the band. Then, I'd either go back down for another pass, or I'd 
just to 
another band and repeat the process.  I'd guess that 80% of 
my calls were

answered on the first call, even when I wasn't the only station calling.

I must thank (LOUDLY) all those who worked me and especially those who took
the time and effort to work me when I wasn't the strongest signal on the band,
and I'm certain there were many of those times.

Congratulations to Elecraft... from where I'm sitting, my K3 KICKS BUTT!

73,

Tom  N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF Feedback Problem

2008-11-03 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Monty:

I just added a jumper around (well, actually over) my L4. No need to risk
possible PCB damage by completely removing the RFCs.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 17:50 11/02/2008, Monty Shultes wrote:
I bit the bullet and removed L4 and L7 this morning.  It is not 
difficult; they are both on the back of the front panel board.  I 
jumpered the pads with wire.  I am now getting superb audio reports 
from critical local stations that were guiding me in reducing RF on 
my audio.  My MC-60 mic is back in good graces.


It works.

Monty  K2DLJ

Even in balanced audio systems, the same rules apply.  Had the K3 
been designed with a truly balanced, 3-stage instrumentation input 
for its mic pre-amp, the inclusion of L4 and L7 on the shielded 
return paths would have the same effect.  The saving grace in an 
instrumentation-input circuit (or in the alternative, an audio 
transformer input) is the inherently large common-mode rejection 
ratio (CMRR) across a very broad frequency span that limits the 
presence of RF on a twisted-pair audio line, even in the total 
absence of the cable shielding.  For nearly 100 years, the Bell 
System and its progeny have used unshielded twisted-pair balanced 
audio systems in the presence of outrageously-high RF fields with 
no measurable detriment to performance in many instances.


Paul, W9AC


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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Clearing memories M1-M4

2008-10-31 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Ralph:

At 17:33 10/30/2008, you wrote:

...but really would like to be able to clear them completely like you can
easily do with the memories.

I guess my thickness is showing again.
Somebody pse explain why a blank memory is a good thing.
I'd think you'd just not push the button.


And therein lies the crux of the problem... if you happen to mis-press
the wrong button, as can happen in the heat of battle, all of a sudden
your K3 is sending the WRONG message... to be able to completely clear
a memory means that it's much more difficult (though probably still not
completely impossible for the likes of me) to 'fat-finger' the message
buttons and to send the wrong message.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Two K3's, Same Band, Same Time?

2008-10-29 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Dan:

At 23:01 10/28/2008, Dan Levin wrote:

For Sweepstakes, we are thinking about using a large multi-multi contesting
station to house two separate single operator efforts.  The station has two
yagi antennas on each band, separated by about 500 feet, and element tip to
element tip when beaming the US (antennas pointed in parallel).

The thought has crossed my mind that two K3's in such a situation might be
able to deal with the other signal, even strong and so close, if one station
is at the low end of the band (say 14005) and the other is at the high end
of the band (say 14075).

Would anyone care to weigh in about the likelihood of the receivers
surviving such behavior?


For Field Day 2008, the Mid-MO ARC ran three 100W (3) K3s.

Each K3 used a multiband dipole.

The three dipoles were all strung, end-to-end, with about 40' of space BETWEEN
ends, in order to attempt to take as much advantage as possible of 
the inherent

null off the end of each dipole.

We very often found ourselves running at least two of the K3s on the same band
and a number of times, we found all three K3's on the same band (usually one
K3 on CW and the other two K3s on SSB).

While I'd be lying if I said there was NO DESENSE, I can state that the level
of desense was such than no operator (newbie or old hand) ever reported a
problem of significant front end overload or significant dense... period!
And you can bet that I'd have (eventually) heard about it if it'd been there!

The K3s performed SO MUCH BETTER than ANY other rig combinations we've used
over the years!  And the attention to front end design built into the K3 has
really caused it to shine as a top performer in the presence of nearby strong
signals.

We'll be running a 2-station special event activity this coming weekend:

  Halloween from Frankenstein (MISSOURI)

and the W0O special event call. We'll have two K3's operating here as well,
and we'll again be using two of the three multiband dipoles, end-to-end.
We expect no significant degradation in our ability to operate both stations
on the same band as in the past.

While this does not address QRO operation, it may help give you an idea of
what you might expect, given the proximity of the dipoles to each other.

73,

Tom HammondN0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta firmware rev. 2.58: FASTER BAND SWITCHING; BAND MAPPING

2008-10-29 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Drew:

I sometimes take my K3 for a visit to a neighboring SW band.

When I'm finished SWLing, I just press [A/B] to swap the (still-in-ham-band)
VFO B freq with VFO A and then press [AB] to reset VFO A back to ham
band as well.

Two buttons, no problems.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 09:35 10/29/2008, you wrote:

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 10:20:59 -0400, David Wilburn
NM4M wrote:

Sweet.  Thanks Elecraft!  You must of been reading my mind.  It is
hard to explain exactly how annoying it was recently having to keep
stopping on 60m when I was going back and forth between 40m and 80m
during CQ WW SSB.

David Wilburn
NM4M



The only remaining annoyance is what happens when you leave the ham
bands, say if you leave 30m ham band and go into the 31m SWBC band:
the 31m band gets set as your 30m ham band. But with judicious
programming of the M1 thru M4 buttons you can at least restore it
quickly enough.

73,
Drew
AF2Z

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 mobile

2008-10-23 Thread Tom Hammond

RTV is very often available as gasket maker/filler from your friendly
neighborhood auto parts store.

Permatex #16B, Black, Silicone Adhesive Sealer IS NOT SUITABLE,
   CONTAINS ACETIC ACID

PERMATEX #598B, Black, Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker IS SUITABLE and
DOES _NOT_ CONTAIN ACETIC ACID

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


At 00:30 10/23/2008, David Cutter wrote:


Cheap RTVs such as used in bathroom sealant has 
a vinegar smell and will attack copper.  In a 
small confined space inside a radio that's not 
good.  In an open outdoor environment where the 
gas can escape it's not such a problem.  Dow 
Corning and others make RTVs with benign 
contents, but at a considerable increase in cost.


Surface mount components have practically no 
exposed copper and pcb tracks are not exposed, 
so, I wonder whether the acetic acid attacks the tin coated contacts.


David
G3UNA
- Original Message -
From: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Bob
To: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.netelecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 mobile

OK...  May I ask why?

I have seen it done in commercial products and I 
recently did it when I was assembling

my SoftRock receivers because of my concerns with the #30 wire breaking.

The two reasons I might think of would be any 
detuning effect or fear of the material used

attacking the wire insulation.

Any wisdom on this subject out there?I did 
not see or am not aware of the Elecraft

advisory.

73,
Bob
K2TK


mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have seen the use of dope, sealers and so on 
strongly discouraged by Elecraft.

matt, W6NIA


Oct 22, 2008 10:30:51 AM, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
There are at least two ferrite core transformers in the K3 that are
supported only by their thin wires. I'm concerned that they may not
survive a mobile environment. It would take only a dab of RTV
(silicone adhesive sealant) to secure them, but I don't know if this
has been discusses or approved.

Windy KM5Q
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