[Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!
I just did one of the dumbest things I've done since I tried to swim across the Susquehanna river with all my clothes on. I survived that, but I need help with something else. I just turned on a computer plugged into 230v with the switch on the power supply set to 115v. Result: bang, smoke, house breaker (16a) pops. I took the power supply apart (it is a funny size so I have little confidence I could replace it). I found two obviously bad components: 1) an 8a fuse -- no problem. 2) something marked znr1 on the board, a component wrapped in heatshrink tubing. It was completely destroyed. Next to it is a similar part labeled znr2. I haven't removed it yet -- so I am not sure it is good. It might be the same as the first one and it might be marked under the heatshrink. There is a bridge rectifier nearby which checks good. All traces look ok. I am hoping there is someone out there who is familiar with these supplies who can suggest what these are (zener diodes? What voltage?) The board is made in such a way that it is difficult to trace the wiring -- but these parts are right near the power input. -- Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP Rehovot, Israel http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!
Took the second one out. It is labeled TVR07241, which is a 240v varistor! I can get these to replace them. I think this one is undamaged (at least, it isn't blown up or shorted). I wonder if the other one was a 115V one which was only in the circuit when the switch was set for 115. That would certainly explain it blowing when I plugged it into 230! On 9/9/14 8:41 PM, Fred Townsend wrote: Vic: Sorry you passed the smoke test. Your mystery components sound like transient suppressors. They are not needed for normal operation. They are there to suppress lightning or other power line disturbances. To find out carefully cut out ZNR12 and clean up any ashes. Then replace the fuse and try the computer. If you are lucky the computer will run. Don't forget to change back to 120 VAC setting. Good luck, Fred, AE6QL -Original Message- From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com Sent: Sep 9, 2014 10:23 AM To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error! I just did one of the dumbest things I've done since I tried to swim across the Susquehanna river with all my clothes on. I survived that, but I need help with something else. I just turned on a computer plugged into 230v with the switch on the power supply set to 115v. Result: bang, smoke, house breaker (16a) pops. I took the power supply apart (it is a funny size so I have little confidence I could replace it). I found two obviously bad components: 1) an 8a fuse -- no problem. 2) something marked znr1 on the board, a component wrapped in heatshrink tubing. It was completely destroyed. Next to it is a similar part labeled znr2. I haven't removed it yet -- so I am not sure it is good. It might be the same as the first one and it might be marked under the heatshrink. There is a bridge rectifier nearby which checks good. All traces look ok. I am hoping there is someone out there who is familiar with these supplies who can suggest what these are (zener diodes? What voltage?) The board is made in such a way that it is difficult to trace the wiring -- but these parts are right near the power input. -- Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP Rehovot, Israel http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to fptowns...@earthlink.net -- Vic -- Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP Rehovot, Israel http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Where to guy
I would like to thank everyone for their advice on guying my R8 antenna. I think I am going to use two sets of guys because, as several people pointed out, the angle will be somewhat steep and downward pressure will tend to make the antenna buckle. I will be using either nylon or dacron because they are UV-resistant. The wind is not too strong here, but I don't want to take any chances on top of a 10-story building! No, they will not be rocket proof, but due to their minimal thickness, the chance of a rocket hitting one will be pretty small. On 9/7/14 12:49 AM, Howard Benham wrote: Unless your guy lines are rocket proof it probably won't make much difference. :-) Seriously though, near the top and in the middle work well for me in high wind condition. Howard KG5AON -- Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP Rehovot, Israel http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Where to guy?
I am putting up a Cushcraft R8 antenna on a flat roof that is about 3m x 3m square. The antenna is sitting on a 1m mast; the antenna itself is about 9m tall. It will have four guy ropes to the corners of the roof. What is a good height at which to attach them to the antenna? Are there rules of thumb for this? -- Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP Rehovot, Israel http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] SWR Readings:Differences
If your line is lossless (it isn't) you would expect the same SWR readings anywhere along the line. With practical lines that have some loss, the SWR should be LOWER farther away from the antenna. You are getting the opposite result. One cause of erroneous SWR readings is RF flowing on the outside of the coax. If your rotary dipole doesn't have a balun, this could be the cause. It's also possible that you have a bad connector or bad piece of coax between the tower and the K3. On 9/3/14 3:06 AM, pastor...@verizon.net wrote: Good Evening, This is Mark Griffin, KB3Z and I have some questions regarding the SWR readings I get at my tower versus what I get on my K3. I will give the SWR readings that I got at my tower for a 40 meter rotatable dipole at 55 feet. Tower: 7000 2.2 7025 1.8 7050 1.5 7075 1.3 7100 1.0 7125 1.1 7150 1.3 7175 1.6 7200 2.0 7225 2.2 K3 Readings: 7000 3.5 7025 3.2 7050 2.9 7075 2.6 7100 2.4 7125 2.3 7150 2.4 7175 2.5 7200 2.6 7225 2.9 What would cause such a big difference. The cable run from my antenna switch on the tower to my K3 is only an additional 75 feet. I am using RG-213 cable. Is there anyway that I can test the SWR reading that my K3 is giving me? Mark Griffin, KB3Z -- Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP Rehovot, Israel http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Using bug keyer with KX3 paddles
The most important feature of a bug isn't that the operator determines the length of the dahs. It is the mechanical feedback that the operator gets which (in the right hands) makes possible the rhythmic sending that can be so pleasing. No keyer emulation can possibly provide that. On 8/29/14 2:17 AM, Jim Sheldon wrote: I just plug my bug into the key jack on the side and configure the jack as a hand key in the menu. I've found that the electronic bug emulations in keyers sound terrible on the air when I try to use them. I can at least generate reasonably decent CW with my real bugs. Jim - W0EB -- Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP Rehovot, Israel http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Rf sensor
Interesting. And if you already have a W2 can you connect the sensor to both or do you need two sensors? Or could I retire the W2? On 8/17/14 5:25 AM, Alan wrote: It uses the W2 wattmeter sensors. According to the Elecraft order page there are three flavors of sensor: DCHF-200 1.8-54 MHz, 0.1-200W DCHF-2000 1.8-54 MHz, 1-2000W CDV/U-200 144-450 MHz, 0.1-200W Alan N1AL -- Vic, K2VCO Rehovot, Israel http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT Antenna location concern
I had intermittent problems with HF RF at the 100 to 1500 watt level on various bands to my rooftop air conditioner unit. Antennas were a beam about 30 feet above it and a vertical 20 feet away at roughly the same height. I wrapped several turns of the cable to the thermostat around a ferrite toroid which improved the situation but didn't totally fix it. My unit had a 1960's technology circuit board in it, and I suppose newer ones have microprocessors. Ultimately the problem went away when I moved to a different country and didn't take the a/c unit :-) , but I suppose it could have been fixed with a better toroid and also perhaps a line filter. I would always expect problems with electronic controls close to an antenna, even with lower power. On 8/14/14 11:20 PM, W2BLC wrote: Has anyone had difficulties with the control systems of their HVAC systems caused by RF from a nearby transmitting antenna? I run the KPA500 all the time - so consider this a 600 Watt station. -- Vic, K2VCO Rehovot, Israel http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Copying Configurations
It would cause problems because some calibration parameters individual to each radio would be copied. So don't try to trick it into letting you do it! On 7/29/14 8:31 AM, K5HM wrote: Is it possible to copy the config from one K3 to another? The utility will not allow it if the S/N are different. Is there a way to bypass that? Will it cause any problems with the target radio? 73, Ron, K5HM k5hm@gmail.com www.qrz.com/db/k5hm -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] UPS for K3
I don't think anyone mentioned this, but the inverter part of a UPS is a switching power supply. Why add to the potential noise cloud around the station? I have noticed lots of noise pollution from my various computer UPSs. The solution of floating a battery across the output of the regular 12v supply seems simpler and quieter to me. On 7/21/14 9:26 AM, Jim Lowman wrote: Interesting! I was thinking along the same lines about a UPS for the shack, but for a different reason. Aren't today's solid-state radios susceptible to damage from transients, much like our computers are? I would not turn on a computer that was not first connected to a quality UPS with surge protection. So, maybe not so much for backup, as most UPS are designed to continue to supply power to the computer and peripherals long enough to effect an orderly shutdown. We don't suffer from protracted power outages here, but rather from sags in the line voltage. This is especially true in the summer, when temperatures reach 100F and higher. But, what about surge suppression for our shack equipment? Or is this a silly question? Are we more susceptible to damage from lightening than from dirty power? 73 de Jim - AD6CW On 7/21/2014 5:30 AM, Dennis Griffin wrote: Here is a link to the PWRgate that I believe Bruce is referring to. This item is a compact, relatively low cost, well regarded solution that would be appropriate for use in the scheme Bruce has suggested. A yellow or blue top Optima, or other good AGM battery, along with a PWRgate, wouldn't cost too much more than the UPS being considered, but would be much more useful versatile. http://ki0bk.no-ip.com/~pwrgate/LLPG/Site/Welcome.html 73 de Dennis KD7CAC Scottsdale, AZ -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 - lightning static reduction
You may be referring to the AGC PLS (AGC pulse) setting, which prevents a short pulse from activating AGC. It is on by default. It is intended to prevent the situation, common on some receivers, that a single strong pulse deafens the receiver for a long period. I don't think this would be helpful with lightning static, though, which is repetitive longish pulses. On 7/12/14 4:27 AM, Bill W2BLC wrote: I received an email from a trusted friend that mentioned a new menu adjustment that prevents the AGC from acting on sudden bursts. Any info on that? I must have been in my cave that day. Bill W2BLC K-Line -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Butane soldering irons
This was exactly my experience on FD at a slightly higher altitude. I had a Bernz-o-matic unit that worked fine at home before and after, so I attributed it to the altitude. On 7/10/14 8:45 PM, Tim Elwell wrote: On 7/10/14 9:24 PM, Al Lorona wrote: This FD I had reason to use it. However, I couldn't ignite it. It would sputter and refuse to burn. We were at 7400' (2260 m). When we got back home it worked perfectly. So I guess that these butane torches aren't any good at high elevation? Not sure what make you have, but I have a cheap little Radio Shack model that I take from virtually sea level (600ft) to Breckenridge, CO (9600ft) every winter and use quite a bit while I'm there. I've never had any trouble with it, other than running out of butane. I bought a new tip for mine not long ago and it seems to have more trouble lightning than the original one. Other than that, though, it's been a workhorse for me at all elevations. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 - rig control with a Pigknob
A couple of things I've wondered about: 1) Can you load firmware while the device is connected? 2) Are there any issues if a P3 is daisy-chained? I looked at the Pigknob user manual and the answers weren't obvious. On 6/28/14 6:50 AM, Bill W2BLC wrote: For a long time I have been using HRD to allow rig control of my K3 - using the mouse and computer for control of various features/controls and the VFO. Then I discovered the Pigknob - http://pignology.net/pigknob/ The Pigknob allows me to control 8 programmable features and the VFO (at two selectable speeds). I merely used the K3's Programmers Reference to help set up the eight buttons. If you can operate a feature or control from the front panel of the K3 - you can do it from the Pigknob. Now I am able to easily control and use the K3 from my arm-chair (remember, all I do is arm-chair copy rag chew) without having to stretch across the desk to reach the K3's panel. The wire from the Pigknob to the K3 is plenty long enough for placement of the device anyplace on the desk, or to hold in my hand. I am glad I found the Pigknob, as it ended my quest for a remote control pad. Also, it does not require the use of a computer, except when programming it. It is stand alone with the K3. I have no financial interest in the company that sells the Pigknob - I am merely pointing out a device that works well for me and may do so for others. As a parting comment: The Pigknob is the best station add-on I have bought in many years. It does its job very well. Bill W2BLC K-Line -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
I have a theory about this. Compare a vertical to a dipole. One reason for additional noise is that a vertical is omnidirectional, and noise comes from all directions. The signal is coming from one direction, and if it is the right direction, then the 2.2 dB gain from directivity of a dipole improves the s/n ratio by that much. But subjectively the difference seems greater than this. It's also true that the vertical is better for signals off the side of the dipole. As Brian said, most verticals appear to be far noisier in urban environments where there is a lot of manmade noise. I believe that this is /not/ because manmade noise tends to be vertically polarized, as is often said. I believe that it is because most verticals are not adequately decoupled from the feedline. Therefore, manmade noise is picked up on the outside of the feedline and flows directly into the antenna. This is exactly the same problem that happens with a dipole without a balun. Therefore the solution to the problem may be a good choke 'balun' at the vertical's feedpoint. On 6/26/14 1:38 PM, Brian Hunt wrote: The other thing I have encountered with verticals vs horizontal antennas in an urban environment is that verticals are inherently noisier. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 116, Issue 4
That reminds me of a story from my youth. My friend was showing his ham station to his aged grandmother. And this is my 80-meter antenna, he said, pointing to a dipole in the back yard. 80 meters? she said, in her thick Hungarian accent. Is that dangerous? On 12/3/2013 7:49 AM, WILLIAM DAVIS wrote: I always express power in ohms. ;-) Bruce AC8BT On Dec 2, 2013, at 11:30 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote: George, I have doubts about any engineer who expresses power in volts. 73, Don W3FPR -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Dot length
I don't know if it is a 'problem', unless you sometimes use PTT and sometimes either full or semi- QSK, since you can adjust your keyer to compensate and leave it that way. But I certainly don't think it's a feature! On 12/2/2013 5:38 PM, k6xt wrote: Working on a recalcitrant amplifier I noticed dot length differs between PTT and QSK. I measured 32ms QSK, 38ms PTT at 40WPM using the internal keyer. Without the amp. Is this a feature, or a problem? S/N 2217 -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Current Measurement in the K2
The K2 current display just measures the current to the QRP part of the rig, not the KPA100. On 11/26/2013 9:24 PM, Tom Field wrote: I've completed my K2/100, and have noticed that when transmitting with higher power , the current reading on the display changes from .36 amps (recieving) to 1.36 or 1.5 amps. I read in the KPA 100 manual that the K2 draws 15 to 20 amps when transmitting at 100 watts. I see this much current on the meter of my power supply, but it's not reflected on the K2 display. Any ideas? Tom KI6NRD K2 # 7432 -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Reliable DC Power Supply for K3/P3
Another vote for the Astron linear 35A supply. Mine is an RS-35 (no meters), I've had it for years and it just runs and runs. Many will suggest switching supplies because they are lighter and less expensive for a given current rating, but they are less reliable and there is always the potential for noise. In my opinion, of course! On 11/19/2013 6:35 AM, Robert Nobis wrote: I m about ready to place an order for a K3 and P3, and wonder if there are recommendations on a reliable DC power supply for the Elecraft 100-W transceiver. 73, Bob - N7RJN -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 6m noise figure
I'd be interested in the result as well. I can tell you, though in an extremely qualitative and anecdotal manner, that the PR6 makes it possible for me to copy signals that I cannot copy without it -- even in my noisy location. On 11/15/2013 3:50 AM, Peter Torry wrote: I am trying to calculate my link budget for 50 MHz and was wondering if anyone has measured the K3 noise figure on this band using the K3 alone and not with the PR6. Calculations suggest about 8dB but a measurement would be most welcome. 73 Peter G3SMT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's
The trick is to remove the outer insulation carefully without damaging the braid and then tin it BEFORE trying to cut it. A large soldering iron (not a gun) makes it easy to tin without disturbing the braid or melting the insulation. Then cut the tinned braid with a tubing cutter. On 11/12/2013 7:50 AM, AG0N-3055 wrote: I've never been able to use the tinned shield method. Too many stray wires, and/or too large to freely enter the center of the connector without catching. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's
Not if it's removed carefully and tinned. I've done it hundreds of times. On 11/12/2013 12:27 PM, AG0N-3055 wrote: On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:00:41 -0800, Vic K2VCO wrote: The trick is to remove the outer insulation carefully without damaging the braid and then tin it BEFORE trying to cut it. A large soldering iron (not a gun) makes it easy to tin without disturbing the braid or melting the insulation. Then cut the tinned braid with a tubing cutter. But just removing the insulating sheath allows the braid to expand to larger diameter, causing it to catch on the inside of the connector in many/most cases. Gary -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] P3 display hanging
Hmm... I too am using fixed tune mode, and the DXlab Commander and have never noticed this problem. My poll rate in Commander is set slow, 300 ms. On 11/11/2013 7:37 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: Paul, I have been using Fixed Tune mode with the P3 and Commander as long as it has been available in the P3 without any hang. I do keep Commander's Command Interval (polling rate) at 200 ms or higher (slower) but that is primarily to handle the worst case dead time in the K3 when changing bands. 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 11/11/2013 10:00 AM, Paul Saffren N6HZ wrote: Hi Tim, Are you using Fixed Tune mode on the P3/SVGA? In Fixed Tune mode, there is quite a bit if information passing between the K3 and P3/SVGA and it sounds like the Commander polling is affecting this communication. Try using Tracking Mode on the P3/SVGA and see if that solves the hanging problem and let me know. -Paul-- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's
I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job. On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, a...@sbcglobal.net wrote: What is U-shaped area in the connector body? I see replies with guys using 200-300W irons! Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of body with holes in it? My 100 watt (1/4 tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors. He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower resistance? 73, Mike From: Ken G Kopp kengk...@gmail.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as part of an over-all talk on wire antennas Here's suggestions ... Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16 portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are square to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny touch of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a small assist with slip-joint pliers. There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and solder them correctly. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP kengk...@gmail.com -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's
Well, K3LR does a lot better in contests than I do, but I wouldn't do it this way. I would tin the braid and cut it with a tubing cutter, then solder through the holes like K0PP suggested. I have never had a problem with one done like this. On 11/11/2013 10:23 PM, Frank Precissi wrote: Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the You should have learned this before you got your ticket grumps). What is your opinion of this method: http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/ On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 9:45 PM, Vic K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com wrote: I too use a 100W iron. In my opinion the heat capacity of a large tip is more important than the wattage. I prefer irons to guns for this job. On 11/11/2013 8:35 PM, a...@sbcglobal.net wrote: What is U-shaped area in the connector body? I see replies with guys using 200-300W irons! Not seen that high of wattage with tip small enough to fit into slot of body with holes in it? My 100 watt (1/4 tapered flat tip) iron seems to work well there. We had a demo at ham club meeting a couple of years ago. Guy brought a micro-ohm meter (Kelvin bridge) and compared resistance of soldered vs. crimped UHF connectors. He used 100W iron like mine. Guess which type had the lower resistance? 73, Mike From: Ken G Kopp kengk...@gmail.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 9:25 PM Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's I've given hundreds of talks over the years on this subject as part of an over-all talk on wire antennas Here's suggestions ... Use --only-- silver-plated connectors with silver-plated shells. Tin the braid and then treat it as if it was a piece of tubing and cut it to length with a small tubing cutter. Leave about a 1/16 portion of the center dielectric protruding from the braid when the dielectric is removed from the center conductor. There's a recess in the center pin's insulation to accept this protrusion. Use a taper reamer to enlarge the four solder holes in the body of the connector as much as possible. The holes will then be the diameter of the U-shaped area in the connector body, making soldering iron contact with the previously tinned braid much easier. This is a good place to remember to put the shell of the connector on the coax ... in the correct direction. (;-) The threads inside the connector are for screwing the connector onto the outer jacket of the cable and ---not--- for screwing reducers for RG-58 or RG-59 into the connector. That's an incidental came- later feature. Note that the threads inside the connector are square to prevent cutting into the outer jacket of the cable. Hint: A tiny touch of silicone grease on the outside of the jacket will help ... the ribbed front portion of the connector is for finger gripping ... or perhaps a small assist with slip-joint pliers. There is a correct way to handle RG-58 and RG-59 reducers and solder them correctly. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP kengk...@gmail.com -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500/Kat500 Cables - PL-259 Question
Jim, In my experience, there are quite acceptable unbranded connectors out there. The problem is, you don't know what you are getting, as you do when you buy Amphenols. But I would expect that DXE checks out what they buy and they are probably OK. Problems with junk PL-259's are insulation that melts when you solder the connector, threads that don't fit other connectors, center pins that loosen up, plating that doesn't take solder (this is really nice when it happens in the field or on a roof or tower) -- all things that you will notice when you install them. Sockets are another story because you can't tell about the durability of the contact material at installation time! On 11/8/2013 2:55 PM, Jim Bennett wrote: The UPS guy is set to deliver my KAT500 and KPA500 later this afternoon. In the mean time, I've been getting stuff ready for the blessed event. Some of that stuff means preparing coax jumpers to run from the K3 to the KPA500 and from the KPA500 to the KAT500. From the KAT500 I may go to my 4:1 balun directly to my doublet or through a 4-position coax switch - undecided there. Anyway, many knowledgeable folks have stated, either on this reflector or on their own web sites, that it's a good idea to stick with known manufacturers of coax and connectors, such as Belden, Amphenol, The Wireman, DXE, etc. Well, I just got a bunch of PL-259 connectors from that last-mentioned vendor and noticed that they had no brand name on them. Plus, the vendor's web site doesn't say that they are Amphenol brand, but that they ARE silver plated and teflon insulated. Comparing these connectors with some other silver / teflon connectors in my parts drawer, I notice a difference in the center conductor. On the DXE PL-259's, the center pin is 100% surrounded with what apparently is the white teflon insulation. On the ones in my bin, there is a small silver-looking ring around that center pin, approximately 1 mm wide, and then teflon as the remainder of the insulation. The only other difference between these two types of connectors is that the DXE-supplied PL-259's have a much more coarse finger grip area than my other ones. So, the question is - with neither of them having any brand name on them, should one feel comfortable using either of them? How can you tell if a PL-259 is crap, other than a lack of teflon insulation and silver plating? Jim / W6JHB Folsom, CA (anxiously waiting for Mr. UPS) -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K9W Wake Atoll DXpedition Has Been Approved - Hope To Be QRV This Weekend
What is super, ultra, incredibly cool is this: since they are using Elecraft gear and I am in California, this means that there is a chance...that I can work them on SIX METERS! On 10/31/2013 9:37 AM, Fred Smith wrote: Eric I saw that in the Daily DX my main amp is down so I will be using my KPA500 and make do with Less HP LOL. I only have K9W on 2 bands both SSB will be trying to fill out on phone except for 160m, not a good enough antenna for it..yet 8) It's times like these when I really enjoy my K3 with sub-receiver/P3 and now using my KX3 for yet another receiver. Yet at times I still miss my 2nd K3 I was using it in a SO2R setup. 73, Fred/N0AZZ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lee Buller Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 11:01 AM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K9W Wake Atoll DXpedition Has Been Approved - Hope To Be QRV This Weekend What is cool is they can get into SS - CW and give out PAC for a mult Big CW weekend. Lee - K0WA From: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 10:52 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: K9W Wake Atoll DXpedition Has Been Approved - Hope To Be QRV This Weekend The K9W Wake Island Dxpedition is back on track and should be on the air this weekend (Nov 3) if all goes to schedule. (See announcement below and http://wake2013.org/index.html ) They are running K3s and KPA500's, so they should both sound great and have sensitive ears! 73, Eric elecraft.com -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Second chance for VM M1-M4 memory saves?
It's been a long time since this has come up, but I'll repeat my low-tech solution: I cut out a red sticker and pasted it over the VM button. This creates a psychological barrier to pressing it! Really, it works. On 10/29/2013 4:44 PM, Barry wrote: I use M1-M3 as quick memories to get to the CW, SSB and RTTY parts of the bands, including the mode change. Every now and then, instead of pressing MV Mx to move freq/mode, I'll hit VM by mistake. Then, I have to reprogram the button. Is there any way to enable an Are you sure? or similar prompt when overwriting a freq/mode with VM? Tnx, Barry W2UP -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Changing CW pitch on K2
Yes, if you want to center the new pitch in the filter. On 10/23/2013 4:08 PM, Eddy wrote: If I change the CW pitch on my K2, do I then need to realign any of the filters? Thanks, 73 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB option performance penalty?
There's no compromise of CW performance. In fact, it gives you the option of a flatter bandpass if you want a wide CW filter (more than about 1 kHz). On 10/22/2013 9:05 AM, Harry Stone wrote: Pardon me if this is a dumb question, I'm still in the process of building my K2. Is there any CW performance penalty in a K2 with the SSB option installed? The SSB board has its own filters, correct? Do the existing CW filters remain unchanged? thanx, harry KD0NFY -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 suddenly dies
Sometimes the screws holding the board to the capacitors loosen up after a few years. On 10/17/2013 7:14 AM, Gary, W7TEA wrote: Good morning Don. The PS suddenly died on me at our beach house in Long Beach. I had no equipment there and first assumed it was my K3. Brought the rig home to Portland and it worked fine. So, it was the supply, an Astron RS35A--couple years old. Anyway, checked the fuse, cleaned contacts etc and it was .8v at the terminals. . So, I replaced the voltage IC which I got from Mouser and used Deoxit on the the voltage adjustment pot. I have another RS35A which has run fine for over 30 years. I don't feel comfortable playing around inside a live supply but will take the cover off and do another visual inspection while unplugged. It has to be something simple I would think. thanks Don, Gary W7TEA On Oct 17, 2013, at 5:42 AM, Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft] ml-node+s365791n7579965...@n2.nabble.com wrote: You did not show any of the prior information (one of the problems with posts from Nabble), so I can only guess that you are working with a power supply problem. A situation like that is often caused by something loose in the negative side of the supply, something that is frequently overlooked. 73, Don W3FPR On 10/17/2013 1:54 AM, Gary, W7TEA wrote: Well, traded out the voltage regulator IC and no joy. Then I tried Deoxit on the adjustment pot, tweaked it a bit and measured voltage at 13.8vdc! Great! Turned it off and on, tried it again, and was ready start bragging to the XYL---but it was back to .8v. Didn't see any suspect components while I had it open. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2
Here is a circuit for an amp key circuit that can be added to the K2: http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Amp_keying_ckt.htm The stock AL80B has a low-voltage positive key line. Just to be sure -- perhaps it's been modified -- it's a good idea to measure it before connecting it. You will get a couple of hundred watts from the AL80B depending on the band. On 10/2/2013 3:34 PM, Tomy wrote: Can K2/10 be fed directly to an amplifier like the Ameritron AL 80B, without hurting it? -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Random wires
Another way to look at it is that it multiplies the radiation resistance, but does the same for the ground resistance. So efficiency is unchanged. On 10/1/2013 12:40 PM, Roger D Johnson wrote: This is NOT true! It merely raises the feedpoint impedance...just the same as adding a 4-1 transformer. 73, Roger On 10/1/2013 3:10 PM, Barry LaZar wrote: As I read your post, I infer that at the moment you are wanting to add 160 meters to your capability. An antenna that I have used and liked is the Twin Lead Marconi. It's a simple, cheap, and effective antenna. I first saw it written up by Bill Orr years ago. The premise of the design is that a quarter wave antenna driven against ground may not be the most efficient antenna due to low radiation resistance. Therefore, raise the radiation resistance by using the theory of a folded dipole. The folded element raises the radiation resistance by a factor of 4 for 2 elements as the impedance changes as the square of the number of elements. You will still need radials, but your ground losses will decrease. 73, Barry K3NDM -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
Here is a diagram of my space (use fixed width font): || | | || | | || | | |- | | | | | The small rectangle on top is a small building (10'x20') on top of the roof of the 10-story apartment building. Actually, it will be my bedroom (and, I think, shack). The larger rectangle is the roof area at my disposal. It is about 10' x 30' plus the areas at the side of the building. The rest of my apartment is below the roof. I would love to put a little roof tower on the building with a beam on it! But as far as I know, that is not allowed. I am thinking about verticals, about 3 fiberglass masts holding up a shortened 40m dipole, etc. For 6 and 2 m I have 3 element beams which are small enough that they will be allowed. On 9/28/13 8:01 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: Vic, Too bad you cannot consider a yagi for 20-10m. That would sit on a mast secured to the small roof-top building. So a 30x 10 foot space? I wonder if the 20x10 foot building extends beyond the 30x20 area? It it extends so total length is 50-feet You could put up a doublet across the length, either horizontal with 8 foot droop on both ends for full length half-wave on 40m or perhaps a pole in the center for inverted-V. Another idea is 50-foot with 8-footlegs at right angles but horizontal at the same height. Or consider a 120-foot horizontal loop if there are places for four support poles. Being on roof of ten stories means the wire does not need to be very high. An automatic tuner at the roof would finish off any multiband antenna with single coax run to shack. To add 6m/2m simple solution is a base-loaded 5/8 6m wave vertical (could be a mobile whip). They load fine on 2m as well (trick of VHF mobile stations). 73, Ed - KL7UW -- Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 21:47:41 -0700 From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent Message-ID: 52465f6d.9060...@gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed I just realized that my previous message was sent in html format. Which means that the reflector stripped the text! That explains some of the answers... Here is what I meant to ask: -- I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge of this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 20'. I can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the flat area mentioned above. But there is a catch: the antenna has to be either a wire antenna, or substantially vertical. If vertical, it can't exceed 29' in height above the roof of the small building. Beams not allowed! I want to operate on 40 through 15 meters. The antenna needs to be able to handle 1500w. I prefer horizontal antennas because of the extra gain and lower noise pickup. I prefer a balanced antenna because of noise and RFI considerations. But I'll consider other options if there are overriding advantages. Suggestions 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com dubus...@gmail.com Kits made by KL7UW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
The problem with the magloop is that it's hard to build one that can handle more than about 100 watts. The voltage across the capacitor gets astronomical! On 9/28/13 11:53 AM, Gil G. wrote: Don't discard the magnetic loop as a possibility: http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,180.0.html Gil. -- PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
A so-called magnetic loop is defined as one smaller than about 1/3 wl in circumference. Bigger than that is a loop, but has a different pattern -- and you are correct that the voltage across tuning components is lower. On 9/28/13 12:38 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote: I'm no expert on loops, but isn't the voltage lower on a BIG loop? On 9/28/2013 12:22 PM, Vic, K2VCO wrote: The problem with the magloop is that it's hard to build one that can handle more than about 100 watts. The voltage across the capacitor gets astronomical! On 9/28/13 11:53 AM, Gil G. wrote: Don't discard the magnetic loop as a possibility: http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,180.0.html Gil. -- PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Antenna help thank you!
I want to thank everyone who responded on and off list to my request for suggestions about what to put on a rooftop 10 stories up! I have been EZNEC-ing my butt off all day, and so far the winner is the suggestion of KL7UW and W4TV, a 20'x30' horizontal rectangular loop about 20' above the roof, fed with 600-ohm open wire line in the center of one of the longer sides. This antenna will have excellent horizontal and vertical patterns on all bands 80 through 10 meters, and should be easily tunable on 40-10 (for 80 I may need to do something special to match it). The old standby, a tuned 44' doublet works fine for 40 and 20, but the pattern breaks up and produces much too much cloud-warming on higher bands. Remember, the antenna will be at 120' above ground. The horizontal pattern is also not ideal on all bands. I got a lot of votes for a vertical, which is the easiest solution. But the horizontal antennas will be quieter in the urban environment. They have some gain in the desired direction. Also I have had better luck from the standpoint of RFI with balanced horizontal antennas. Now there is just the mechanical question of how to keep the poles that hold up the loop at the corners of the roof from bowing inward too much. There's nothing to guy them to. I also appreciate the forbearance of Eric S., who tolerated this OT discussion for so long. FWIW, RF going into the antenna will come from my K2 and K3. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2
One BIG problem which I should have mentioned before is that while you might get away with it on CW, doing this would increase IMD for SSB or digital modes a great deal. On 9/28/13 7:19 PM, drewko wrote: I was curious to determine what a 3 db increase in power output might mean in terms of total number of possible contacts. So I set up my K3 to run WSPR on 20 meters for a while today: At regular intervals over the course of 9 hours the power output was toggled back and forth between 5 and 10 watts, logging some 2,000 signal reports for the entire period. So, how much is a 3 db increase in power output worth? According to my WSPR log data, about 40% more contacts. (At that rate a 6 db increase would give nearly twice as many contacts. And a K3/100 should have about three times as many QSOs in it than a K3/10...) Anyhow, the original intention to mod the K2 might be justified. It's not an insignificant improvement, though it might be good to log a few thousand more reports to make sure. 73, Drew AF2Z On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 08:24:39 -0700, you wrote: My first thought on the audio was to get some efficient earbuds. Lightweight and cheap. Over on the KX3 list, people like the Chill Pill powered speakers. I know it is a second box, but the Hardrock 50 amp has been getting good reviews. You would not need to get it out except in an emergency, so it could stay deep in the pack. See: http://www.hobbypcb.com/amateur-radio/amateur-radio/hardrock-50-hf-power-amp-kit.html I think there is a lot of evidence that 3dB does not matter. 10dB matters. 6dB might matter. wunder Walter Underwood K6WRU CM87wj __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2
This argument will never die. But remember the last time you called CQ and a station came back that you could hear, but not copy. (I'm thinking CW, but it also applies to SSB). You know he is in there, but despite struggling with the narrowest possible bandwidth and every trick your receiver is capable of, you just can't get his call as he floats in and out of the noise. I maintain that even ONE dB matters in this situation. On 9/27/2013 10:03 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Quite true on HF. 3dB often matters doing weak signal work on 6 meters and up, and sometimes on 10 meters, but on HF there are too many other variables, QSB, etc. Back in the 30's and 40's the Radio Engineering texts used to list 6 dB as the minimum change one might expect to detect by ear on HF due to all the propagation variations. (Back then, 10 meters was a UHF band.) I always thought that was why Collins settled on 6dB for one S-unit on their receiver S-meters. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I think there is a lot of evidence that 3dB does not matter. 10dB matters. 6dB might matter. wunder Walter Underwood K6WRU CM87wj __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Antenna suggestions
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[Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
I just realized that my previous message was sent in html format. Which means that the reflector stripped the text! That explains some of the answers... Here is what I meant to ask: -- I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge of this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 20'. I can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the flat area mentioned above. But there is a catch: the antenna has to be either a wire antenna, or substantially vertical. If vertical, it can't exceed 29' in height above the roof of the small building. Beams not allowed! I want to operate on 40 through 15 meters. The antenna needs to be able to handle 1500w. I prefer horizontal antennas because of the extra gain and lower noise pickup. I prefer a balanced antenna because of noise and RFI considerations. But I'll consider other options if there are overriding advantages. Suggestions? -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: maximizing RF output, upping audio output.
Before the KPA100 came out I experimented with the K2 to see if I could get more output to drive an external amplifier. There IS a way, but I am sure there are lots of dangers involved. I will say that I did this for a month or so until I got my KPA100. I am not recommending it! The K2 has a closed-loop power control circuit. The MCU looks at the amount of power being produced and adjusts the drive to increase or decrease it until it matches the setting of the POWER control. So if you lie to the MCU and tell it that less power is coming out than actually is, it will increase the drive to try to make it reach the set point. I have a KAT2 so all I had to do was adjust the forward power pot to say that there was less output. I believe I got about 22 watts on 40 meters this way (less on other bands). Again, you are undoubtedly stressing things beyond design limits when you do this and bad things could happen. It might be better to get an external amplifier like the HF Packers use. On 9/26/2013 5:55 AM, Allan Taylor wrote: I have a very early K2 that I use for field operations. It functions as an emergency communication source for serious backcountry trips (multi-day wilderness whitewater rafting, etc.). I am finding that a power output of, say, 20W would be desirable as a compromise between more reliable communication and battery usage. My K2 puts out about 14W. Thus I ask the experts: has anyone revamped the TX RF stages sufficient to put out 20 -25W output? Yes, I know this amounts to only a dB or two. But it can be the edge needed in very marginal conditions. Second issue. The K2 has always been on the low side for RX audio. Being no longer a young buck, my hearing is not perfect any more. Is there a known mod to add 5-10 dB to the audio chain without drastic distortion? Presently I take along a Radio Shack headphone 3-way amp that gives about that. It works fine but is yet another piece of gear to bring along and doesn't feed the internal speaker. When I had a KX1 (now sold) it had been modified to have a second audio amp chip put in and it really helped. Has anyone done a similar thing for the K2? I am not a EE by any means so would prefer to follow known modification paths. Anyone? -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [OT] - PAR HF OMNI ANGLE
How high was the 44' doublet? How was it oriented compared to the Omni Angle antenna? Is the doublet in inverted V or horizontal configuration? I am finding this interesting because I am soon moving to an antenna-restricted location. On 9/26/2013 6:57 AM, stan levandowski wrote: About 3 weeks ago, I learned about a new miracle antenna - I usually dismiss such nonsense because there *is* no miracle antenna. However, the person who informed me is a trusted, capable, educated ham and DXpeditioner who is not easily impressed. I still don't believe in miracles but this 2.5 lb, 7 by 4 foot, easy up/easy down, no tools required, easy-to-tune $99 new product by Dale Parfitt [designer of the PAR End FedZ series] offers a realistic alternative to those with severe antenna restrictions, attic installations, SOTA needs, and so on. It is easily mounted on a Jackite or similar fiberglass pole. Just put it on and slide it down until it's a good friction fit. The antenna is resonant for a single band ( choose: 20, 17, 15, 12, 10 or 6) and additional matchboxes can be purchased for around $25 each. I bought the 17 meter version and in two weeks of non-scientific, casual A/B testing against my 44' doublet, the Omni Angle has been equal or better on receive the majority of times and about the same on transmit. On receive it seems notaby less noisy than my doublet. It is horizontally polarized. I don't want to create an antenna controversy here on proper antenna testing techniques -- I seem to have a flair for doing that -- ;) But I do want to pass along info on this new product which might be very useful to those of us who have to live with antenna restrictions or who need options for effective portable operations. Here is a short Youtube video I cobbled together to demonstrate my 17 meter PAR Omni Angle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGTq4zVAW_w 73, Stan WB2LQF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [OT] - PAR HF OMNI ANGLE
Stan, Interesting. I did a quick EZNEC plot of the pattern of a 44' doublet (close to a full wavelength) at 30' on 18.07 MHz and didn't see any deep nulls in the horizontal pattern. But in the direction of Italy from NY it is down about 5 dB from the maximum gain in the E-W direction. I recently modeled the 'cobweb' antenna, which is a 'square' dipole similar to the Omni-angle configuration; it had a maximum gain of about 2 dB less than a dipole and would be down an additional 1.4 db in the direction of Italy. So my guess is that about only 1.6 dB of the difference between the dipole and the Omni-angle antenna came from the patterns. The rest could be attributed to the location of the doublet in the attic and the dropped ends (I didn't model this, but I suspect it has an effect). On 9/26/2013 11:46 AM, stan levandowski wrote: Hi Vic. My 44' doublet is in my attic, arranged as a flat top for 24' and then drooping straight down at both ends. The antenna is almost exactly 30' above the earth. It is fed with 14' of 450 ohm ladder line straight down through a slit in my ceiling and into a linen closet where it meets up with an SG237 autocoupler. This keeps the autocoupler out of the winter cold and summer heat of the attic. From there I have a run of nice clean 50 ohm coax to my second story shack This attic doublet arrangement is nearly 4 years old and has served me exceedingly well on 40 through 10 meters, inclusive. I only run 5 watts CW at all times simply because I love QRP and I love CW and it's my thing. The frequency agility of the doublet/autocoupler combination has been wonderful because those of us in restrictive environments usually don't have room for more than one, possibly two good antennas. I have a very RF friendly attic in terms of no foil insulation, no HVAC, only PVC plumbing stacks, etc. Of course, there is some attenuation but at HF I believe (from what I've been able to research) that this attenuation is frequently overstated and often considered to be far worse than what it really is. In my experience, the worst penalties that follow an attic (or any indoor) installation - RF exposure notwithstanding - are skewed radiation pattern and house noise. i By comparison, the Omni Angle when this video was made was at 27' - 3' lower than the doublet's flat top section. That was 15' above the lower deck + 12' up on the Jackite. The Omni Angle was facing E-W in the sense that the front wire portion was pointing in that direction; the attic doublet was pointing in the same E-W direction. Of course, we can all agree, I'm sure, that this information doesn't help all that much in comparing these two antennas because the drooped attic doublet had some vertical component and most assuredly some skew in its pattern + as another Lister pointed out, on 17M there are lobes on the doublet. But here's what I think is important to know: For those of us (and we're probably an increasing number in today's world) who can't enjoy antenna freedom this Omni Angle represents another option and a darn good one from my experience of the last 3 weeks. In my case, it fits the footprint of my deck. I can put it up on my 31' jackite to about the 25' + 15' for the upper deck gives me 40' of height, clear of my roof line, and away from the attic house noise. My attic doublet is my overall favorite antenna and out of the weather and is always ready for me. It's earned me DXCC at the QRP level, QRP WAC, and I've worked all states too. It's gotten me to Japan from NY on 5 watts more than once. But this Omni Angle also got me to Tokyo on 5 watts just last week. So, based on my experience, the Omni Angle is a competitive antenna for a restrictive home QTH, for portable work and, in my case, for stationary mobile where I drive to a scenic rest stop, drop a fiberglass pole into my hombrew mount on my VW Bug, hoist an antenna that's significantly better than a Hamstick, and enjoy ham radio. Hope this helps to answer your questions, Vic, as well as those of other Listers with antenna restrictions. 73, Stan WB2LQF On Thu, Sep 26, 2013 at 12:33 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote: How high was the 44' doublet? How was it oriented compared to the Omni Angle antenna? Is the doublet in inverted V or horizontal configuration? I am finding this interesting because I am soon moving to an antenna-restricted location. On 9/26/2013 6:57 AM, stan levandowski wrote: About 3 weeks ago, I learned about a new miracle antenna - I usually dismiss such nonsense because there *is* no miracle antenna. However, the person who informed me is a trusted, capable, educated ham and DXpeditioner who is not easily impressed. I still don't believe in miracles but this 2.5 lb, 7 by 4 foot, easy up/easy down, no tools required, easy-to-tune $99 new product by Dale Parfitt [designer of the PAR End FedZ series] offers a realistic alternative to those with severe antenna
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Is Width of Notch-Filter adjustable in some reasonable amount?
Just wait until the ARRL proposal for a 2.1 kHz digital mode bandwidth in the CW/digital segments passes. Then we'll have autobots popping up that wipe out ten CW or narrow digital QSOs in one blow! On 9/23/2013 5:10 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: JT65A tends to be found at xx.076-xx.0785 and JT9 tends to be found at xx.0785-xx.080 on most HF bands (substitute 10.138, 18.102 and 24.917 for xx.076 on those bands). Note most RTTY collisions involve the RTTY folks who park on xx.080 Mark (FSK displaying mark frequency). Since space shifts down, the RTTY signal will chew up 300 Hz or more of the JT9 center of activity. The bigger problem is the WinLink (PACTOR) autobots that come up anywhere in xx.075-xx.080 without listening for *any* other activity. 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 9/23/2013 7:33 PM, Fred Jensen wrote: Where do I find the definitions of JTxx Territory? I operate RTTY only in a handful of contests, but I could be one of the encroachers. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013 - www.cqp.org On 9/23/2013 1:28 PM, KD7YZ Bob wrote: That I do because the RTTY people have a horrible tendency to get right into the edges of what they perceive is JT65 territory. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3/0 Remote Rig QRQ / QSK performance
Please answer him on-list. I would like to know, too! On 9/19/2013 10:30 AM, W5UXH wrote: Apparently my mailman subscription disappeared, so this is a second attempt to get this query out there: Can anyone comment on the performance of the remote rig setup for higher speed CW? If I use a keyboard keyer on the K3/0 end and CW+ QRQ mode, other than the latency that of course is network dependent, can I expect the performance to be close to that when operating the K3 directly? On the K3/0 end I assume I would hear a local sidetone from the K3/0 and there would not be a sidetone coming back from the remote end? Can I expect the keying quality from the remote K3 to be the same as when operating the K3 directly? I would really like to hear from someone who actually operates QRQ speeds on the order of 50+ WPM who has used this setup, but perhaps that is wishing for too much. But how about 30 wpm or so in a QSK style QSO? Chuck, W5UXH -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Hallicrafters SX-62 and external speaker available
I thought I would offer to trade you an HRO-5 and NC-101X for it, but I realized that that wouldn't solve either of our problems! On 9/10/2013 3:08 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote: Thanks for all of the inquiries. The SX-62 has found a new home. 73, Wayne N6KR From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tue, 10 Sep 2013 14:25:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Hallicrafters SX-62 and external speaker available Someone gave me a vintage Hallicrafters SX-62 receiver with external speaker. Both are in fair shape, and could probably be of some value with a good cleaning. Based on advice from a radio refurbisher, I have not plugged in the receiver, and I'm pretty sure this unit hasn't been plugged in for at least 30 years. Apparently some collectors like to replace some of the capacitors first. I'd like to give these away for nothing but my cost of shipping. Otherwise they may end up getting recycled in some environmentally correct fashion. Please email me directly if interested. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Spaghetti Wire Zip Cord to connect m K3 to the power supply.
You can put one end in a vise, the other in a drill chuck (I use an ancient hand drill for this) and make twisted pair out of it. On 9/8/2013 11:22 AM, Richard Thorne wrote: True, but it's not zip. I have plenty of single black and red wire. I would like it bonded together to make for a neater installation. Rich - N5ZCX On 9/8/2013 1:08 PM, Walter Underwood wrote: Powerwerx stocks flexible 8 and 10 gauge cable with high strand counts. http://www.powerwerx.com/wire-cable/power-wire-automotive.html They also stock 18 gauge test probe cable and call it noodle wire, which fits with the original terminology. wunder K6WRU On Sep 8, 2013, at 9:38 AM, Jim Brown wrote: On 9/8/2013 9:31 AM, Richard Thorne wrote: The proper term which I should have used is silicone wire which is very flexible due to the high conductor count. You would have confused me with silicone wire too -- never heard of it. But High conductor count and very flexible is clear enough. :) 73, Jim K9YC -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] new subscriber and first question
No, the K3 CANNOT switch a negative voltage for keyout! It is a solid-state circuit which is quite robust (+200v at 5A), but only for positive DC voltages. K3 schematics are here: http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Schematics_Jun_2010.pdf On 8/31/2013 3:52 AM, Doug Basberg wrote: Hello; I just put together my K3/100 with ATU. What a great transceiver! Now I need to hook it to my vintage Collins 30L-1 linear amp. The manual says the K3 can handle up to 200 volts on 'key out'. That might mean I can hook up directly to the linear. One question is whether that also means minus 200v. The Collins has -170vdc on its connector. I was thinking the K3 uses relay contacts for the 'key out', but maybe not. Second question is whether the K3 schematics are available? The powerful configurability of the K3 means I have a learning curve to go thru. I think this reflector will be a big help. Searching the archives will probably solve a lot of questions and then there is the 'live' community. Very good. I also subscribed to the yahoo group. 73s Doug N8VY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Linearize VCO question
It's only necessary to do it on one band. Later documentation is correct. On 9/1/2013 9:06 PM, Eddy wrote: I notice in early documentation on the Elecraft website they mention running CAL PLL on each band, but in my K2 manual (Serial # 3600+) it only talks about running CAL PLL between 7000 and 7100, the 40-mtr band. Can someone tell me the official recommendation on CAL PLL? Thanks much! 73, ed __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] What is this interference displayed in P3 ? It moves along with VFO
Two possible causes for spurious signals on the P3 are 1) A bad coax jumper with a non-continuous shield (Elecraft had some at some point) , and 2) paint on the inside of the enclosure where the parts are joined. Try a new jumper cable and make sure the mating surfaces of the enclosure are sanded clean. On 8/23/2013 6:45 PM, Dale Harding K7DNH wrote: I have noticed something the past couple of weeks... there is sometimes some type of signal showing up on the P3 that moves with the VFO.. 1. note VFO @ 225 and Mkr A 237.95 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n7578210/DNH_1041.jpg 2. mkr now at 237.95 - note signal 252.15 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n7578210/DNH_1042.jpg 3. does not matter where VFO center is... http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n7578210/DNH_1044.jpg Sometimes it is there - sometimes it isn't. I am not educated in electronics, however it must be coming from within the radio or P3 correct? Ideas to fix - does it need fixing? -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Testing
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: HIgh swr on 6m
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Re: [Elecraft] O.T.: End of (another) era
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bootup sequence?
It happens on my computer, with a real COM port. I used DTR keying and allowed the N1MM contest logger to generate CW for years, but finally gave up and got a Winkey USB device. I am happy I did -- the CW is cleaner, and I don't have to worry about accidentally keying the transmitter on boot-up. On 6/25/2013 8:30 AM, Matt Zilmer wrote: I've been using TX TEST for this purpose. Your K3 is probably set up to use DTR or RTS for keying. When the USB enumerator starts up, the first thing it does is reset all the hubs and endpoints, and this causes the serial adapter's DTR/RTS to become asserted, keying the K3. USB may be reset several times, resulting in TX cycles to match. The only other way of preventing this (that I know of) is to unplug the serial line at the adapter. This shouln't happen on a regular COM port, one that's integrated into the computer. I believe it will *always* happen if there's a USB/serial adapter in line. 73, matt W6NIA On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 17:16:16 +0200, you wrote: When booting up my PC connected to the K3 it keys the TX several times during the bootup sequence, I imagine when initialising the various comports. I need to power up the K3 first before PC boot as I have added LP Bridge to my PC auto start program list and it wants to see the K3 to enable the connect port. Is there a way to auto inhibit TX keying during PC bootup ( eg. placing the TX into TEST mode)? I believe there must be a way but can't find it as yet. Thanks, 73 F5VJC __ -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bootup sequence?
If you do this, make sure that when you remove the 5v pin 7 is either grounded directly or via a resistor. if you let it float, it may inhibit output in that condition. Yes, I see that Ed didn't do that in his schematic -- maybe it's rig-dependent, but I've had this problem. On 6/25/2013 10:46 AM, Edward R Cole wrote: One other way to prevent the K3 from transmitting (it will still key but with no RF output). Apply 5v to pin-7 of the ACC after placing TX INH set to HI in the CONFIG menu. Remove the 5v and the radio will function normally. http://www.kl7uw.com/TX-INHIBIT.htm shows how to use inhibit on VHF bands but not on HF. A simple modification could be done where the relay is replaced by a toggle switch and eliminate the transistor and BAND and DIGOUT circuitry. The voltage regulator, 1K resistor, and diode are not needed and can be replaced with a 2.2K to 10K resistor (K3 manual, page 19) connected to 12v thru a toggle switch. I just boot my computer before powering up the K3 (I am not using the LP Bridge). 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com dubus...@gmail.com Kits made by KL7UW -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] QRP
OK, but this one doesn't count as an option. Not if you can't use it without breaking the law and spoiling the band for everyone in range of your signal. On 6/18/2013 11:47 AM, Rick McClelland, AA5S wrote: Yes, all that is true, but the point is there are less expensive amplifiers available. On Tue, Jun 18, 2013 at 12:44 PM, Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.orgwrote: Maybe because the description of the KL500V says This amp does not work well with Flex or KX3. And because the amp is not certified for US amateur radio, despite the headline. The description says, These units are for industrial, scientific, medical, or export use only. Finally, it does not appear to have any output filtering at all. wunder K6WRU -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Point me to the note for sending CW when in, SSB mode
I wish people would stop using the term 'MCW' for the method of producing CW by feeding a (one hopes) clean audio tone to an SSB transmitter. This is a way of generating CW -- which may or may not be the best way -- but it is not MCW. MCW as it has always been understood is a carrier modulated at an audio frequency -- an AM signal. The signal is keyed on and off to transmit Morse information, but it has two sidebands on either side of a carrier. If the tone is, say, 600 Hz, then the signal will be at least 1200 kHz wide. It is illegal in our HF CW bands. MCW was used in past years for maritime communication because it can be received by a receiver without a BFO and there is no 'zero beat' phenomenon which could cause a listener to miss a signal. On 6/15/13 3:40 AM, David Woolley (E.L) wrote: Most modern commercial transceivers effectively generate CW as SSS MCW. I think the K3 does it at about 15kHz or less, which is within the audio range. I suppose the K3X could generate it directly, by just keying the I signal to the modulator; however, that would mean moving the VFO between transmit and receive, at the QSK rate. (Keying I on the K3 would probably be a bad idea, as it would mean that any transmit roofing filter would need to pass the first LO frequency and therefore be subject to some carrier leak when key up, so I presume that the CW is actually synthesized as fully fledged MCW. Even if it keyed I, you could treat that as MCW with a side tone of 15kHz.) Even the K2 architecture is effectively an MCW one, but in that case the initial tone is in the MHz range. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Dirty signals was: K3 and Mutek Transverter combo?
I also heard a lot of rough CW signals in the VHF contest on 6 meters, but they sounded like the effects of propagation to me. Sometimes I heard the same station with a clean signal when it was coming in loudly, and a rough signal when it weakened. These were signals from stations within the skip zone, so I think it was back scatter or a similar phenomenon. More distant signals propagated by E skip were clean. On 6/11/2013 8:12 AM, Dave Lankshear wrote: From the number of filthy signals that appear in contest, I'd wager that most of them are deliberately transmitted that way. They act rather like a beacon to attract the SP guys and also are so much of a pest when chasing Dx that they are worked just to clear the frequency. I've heard the same callsigns that are T9 when not contesting or Dx chasing, but pop up in contests etc. with filthy T5 signals. It's mostly deliberate. Personally, I'd propose that any signals of T8 and worse should be boycotted, but it would never work. 73 Dave G3TJP -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Display TX flashing
Make sure TX INH is set to OFF. On 6/11/2013 4:36 PM, Harlan wrote: OK gang I'm sure it's something very simple I am overlooking BUT. I understand the TX indicator on the display (not the TX led) flashes when in TEST mode, or if transmit is inhibited externally. But, mine started flashing all the time. I have disconnected everything except mic, external speaker, power, and antenna. I have reloaded firmware. I have reloaded to an earlier configuration file. Nothing changes. ALSO, don't know if this is associated or just a fluke, BUT my monitor function doesn't work anymore either. What the Harlan NC3C __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Display TX flashing
Not a genius, but shall we say I have been where you were! On 6/11/2013 6:24 PM, Harlan wrote: Vic...you are a genius all works fb now. Everything Elecraft is fantastic. From the products to the staff to the users on the reflector.. Harlan NC3C /Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID/ Vic K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com wrote: Make sure TX INH is set to OFF. On 6/11/2013 4:36 PM, Harlan wrote: OK gang I'm sure it's something very simple I am overlooking BUT. I understand the TX indicator on the display (not the TX led) flashes when in TEST mode, or if transmit is inhibited externally. But, mine started flashing all the time. I have disconnected everything except mic, external speaker, power, and antenna. I have reloaded firmware. I have reloaded to an earlier configuration file. Nothing changes. ALSO, don't know if this is associated or just a fluke, BUT my monitor function doesn't work anymore either. What the Harlan NC3C __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] cobweb antenna
Theoretically, performance should be similar to a dipole, although with a near-omnidirectional pattern (and of course reduced bandwidth). It might be perfect for certain antenna-restricted circumstances. There is a statement on the G3PTW website which is interesting, and I would like to hear what others say about this: The confined electric near field (caused by the high impedance ends of each dipole being close to each other) also ensures that the antenna does not couple to other electrical conductors i.e. telephone wires, power cables, television antennas or even the ground and lossy di-electrics such as trees and buildings. Thus the radiated power is not absorbed by nearby objects, it is all radiated into free space. Breakthrough and noise pick up are also reduced to an absolute minimum and the ground conductivity and height do not affect the antenna tuning. Does this sound reasonable? On 5/31/2013 10:46 AM, Yngvi (TF3Y) wrote: Hi folks. I used a CobWebb by G3TPW for a few years. It's a nice and compact antenna and it withstood the Iceland climate very well. I had it on a 16 ft. 2.5 dia aluminium tube at the top of my house. Total height above ground 32 ft. The performance was always better than a full size 1/4 wave ground mounted vertical and noise floor on RX considerably lower. The CobWebb has a fairly narrow bandwith as it is a dipole bent in a square. The dipole is T matched with a current balun at the feedpoint. It's almost omni directional. I currently have a 2 el. SteppIR but I really liked the CobWebb. It's quite an efficient antenna. 73, Yngvi TF3Y http://www.tf3y.net -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Homebrew amplifiers (OT)
I know some of you guys are dedicated QRPers. But I thought a few might be interested in my response to Elecraft's decision to not market the KPA1500 (I'm trying to be funny, please don't throw stuff). Here is my project in progress to build a 1500-watt brick-on-key amplifier: http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/4CX1000A/K2VCO%204CX1000A%20Amplifier.html And here is my Nostaligicomm 813 amp, built 2 years ago: http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/813amplifier/K2VCO%20813%20Amplifier%20Pictures.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Combo pre-amp
You could simply run your coax from the relay after the amplifier directly to the rx-in jack. Surely an internal preamp would be located between this jack and the rest of the receiver. You just wouldn't need to use the rx-out jack. Am I am missing something here? On 5/26/2013 11:23 PM, Edward R Cole wrote: I am amazed at the length of conversation on this topic. IN fact an internal 6m preamp would be counterproductive to my needs. I will be adding a 1100w solid state 6m amplifier and would have to add two coax relays to bypass it in receive if the preamp were internal. Connecting the 6m preamp in the existing configuration I run the antenna input to a single 1200w rated coax relay at the output of the transmit power amp: http://www.kl7uw.com/6M-EME-LAYOUT.jpg Here is how my non-Elecraft preamp is installed on my K3/10: http://www.kl7uw.com/K3-ARR-6mPreamp.jpg my six meter webpage: http://www.kl7uw.com/6m.htm 73, Ed - KL7UW -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] magnetic loop antennas
I googled 'flexible conduit' and what I see looks like BX cable -- made out of a single flat piece of metal wrapped in a spiral shape. If this is what you are talking about, it would be AWFUL for this purpose -- it would have a very high RF resistance and so be very inefficient. There are very high currents in the loop and you have to keep the resistance at RF as low as possible -- that's why large-diameter copper tubing is good. Do you have a link to a picture of the stuff you are looking at? On 5/20/2013 6:43 PM, Bill Blomgren wrote: I saw the great writeup on the magnetic loop antenna and the inventive High Voltage capacitor for tuning the thing. I'm looking at one of them strictly because I'm stuck in an apartment. The fact it should be good for 100 watts is perfect for what I'm looking at buying. I'm just wondering about the copper pipe used for the outer loop... I spotted some very reasonably priced flexible conduit that could be used for the loop proper. Do what is necessary to bond the capacitor into the rig, and it would appear to be a reasonable alternative to the rather pricy copper pipe. (They want your first born here for that, and the thieves are busy collecting anything that isn't nailed down. Thoughts on that for its larger diameter, which should help with the coupling to the rest of the world... -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] Re: Elecraft Hats at Dayton?
But... you could have gotten a discount on the har! On 5/19/2013 8:05 AM, W4SK wrote: I would have bought a hat, but could not decide if I wanted elevated radials on it. John T. Gwin jtg...@comcast.net judgejohng...@wilsoncountytn.com -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hats at Dayton?
Of course! On 5/15/2013 11:30 AM, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote: The ones we have purchased use much higher quality materials than the eBay hats :-) Eric elecraft.com _..._ On May 15, 2013, at 1:37 AM, Fred Smith m...@mo-net.com wrote: For all you Elecraft guys that don't get a hat at Dayton they are for sale on eBay all the time for $10. Myself and 4 friends bought some for ourselves last year you can get your call sign on the back also, they look nice. 73, Fred/N0AZZ K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100 P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2 -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Begali dimensions?
I have a Magnetic Professional which is the same as the Classic with a different finish. The base is 4 x 3-1/8 (width by depth). The total depth, including the large style fingerpieces is 4-1/4. The height, including the feet is 2-3/16. On 5/6/2013 4:54 PM, Rose wrote: Does anyone have a Begali Classic/Profssional that they can take measurements from? The Begali website has no dimensions. 73! Rose - N7HKW elecraftcov...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 power source
I suspect that the power handling is not really dependent on the SWR, but rather on the nature of the impedance that gives rise to that SWR (the resistance and both the magnitude and the sign of the reactance). One antenna system showing a 3:1 SWR might produce high voltages and low currents in the tuner, and another the opposite. The stress on the different components might vary all over the place. I know Elecraft is conservative, but I recommend caution in this case. On 5/1/2013 7:51 PM, Gerald Manthey wrote: Yea, I meant KAT500. Ok I saw it would do 1000 at 3-1 but was curious about 1500. Thanks On May 1, 2013 9:48 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote: On 5/1/2013 7:38 PM, Gerald Manthey wrote: Can the KPA500 handle more than 1000 watts? Say like 1100 to 1500? You must mean KAT500, and I don't think so. At least I wouldn't try it. I think it will handle anything the KPA500 will make [~700W], after all, this *is* Elecraft, and that's what they do, but 1,500W is over twice that much and seems to be pushing it more than a little. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013 - www.cqp.org -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations
If it ain't broke ... just open it up, blow out the dust, and tighten all of the screws that connect the capacitors to the board. Then make sure the bolts on the output connectors are tight, too. Then settle back and use it for another 25 years. On 4/16/2013 8:27 AM, Bill wrote: My RS-35A has been on and in use 24/7 (except during storms and vacations) for well over 25 years. I plan on replacing it just because this summer - with a new one. Bill W2BLC -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Leaving TP2 connected?
The reason you are not supposed to do this is that the third harmonic of the BFO is picked up and amplified, producing a spurious output just above the high end of 20m (I've forgotten the exact frequency). I don't know about problems on other bands. I recall that I checked and the spur was much stronger with the cable in TP2. Especially if you are using a KPA100 or (worse) an external linear as well, you shouldn't do this! On 4/15/2013 8:53 PM, Eddy wrote: Quick question regarding my 3000+ K2, I'm struggling to get the filters just right so can I leave TP2 connected all the time? So, I haven't noticed any adverse affects. This way I won't have to take the cover to try and new filter setting. thanks and 73 ed __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question
I know there are those on this list who can help me. I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week for a half hour to charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery lasted for about 10 years! The present battery is about 2 years old. Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery dead. I took the battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they charged it overnight and tested it under load. They said the battery was OK. When I started the generator and checked the charging voltage, it was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I replaced it. Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no load was 11.5V. I left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I checked the voltage and it was 13.5V. The generator started up and the charging voltage was 14.5V. Do I have a bad battery? -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question
I see that my original post was not clear. I should have said that after the first instance of a dead battery, after the battery was tested and pronounced good, I replaced the VOLTAGE REGULATOR. I'm not sure about the type of electrolyte, whether it's gel or liquid, but I think it is liquid. The battery is sealed, though. The capacity is 665 AH with 540 CCA. I've received several responses to check if the battery is draining when the generator is not running. I should have mentioned that I did this the first time it died, and there was no current drain when it wasn't running. On 4/8/2013 9:15 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote: I know there are those on this list who can help me. I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week for a half hour to charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery lasted for about 10 years! The present battery is about 2 years old. Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery dead. I took the battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they charged it overnight and tested it under load. They said the battery was OK. When I started the generator and checked the charging voltage, it was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I replaced it. Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no load was 11.5V. I left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I checked the voltage and it was 13.5V. The generator started up and the charging voltage was 14.5V. Do I have a bad battery? -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question
The charging voltage was measured with the battery connected. Although it says ca 665 on it, judging by the size it must 65 AH! I charged it for a period of 12 hours with an initial charging current of about 7A, which dropped to 2A. I replaced the old battery because it went dead, and then when I charged it it did not recover. I think the voltage regulator was bad and not producing enough charging voltage. Then the battery was damaged because I didn't notice it was dead for a couple of weeks. The new battery also went dead. I then checked the charging voltage and it was 13.8V. I thought it was marginal, so I replaced the voltage regulator. Now I'm getting 14.5V when the engine is running. But I am thinking that I damaged the new battery when I allowed it to die before replacing the voltage regulator. The connections have been cleaned. It is not particularly hard to start (cranks for about 5-7 seconds and starts). No drain at all when it is off. On 4/8/2013 11:22 AM, Fred Townsend wrote: Vic let me clarify a few issues. 1.At 665 AH your sealed battery is almost certainly a wet battery (i.e. not a gel). 2.A charging voltage between 13.5 and 14.2 is normal. 14.5 is a bit high unless the charger is temperature compensated and the weather is very cold (in the area of your generator). Another cause would be if you measured the charging voltage without a battery attached (i.e. no load). _In any event your real problem does not appear to be too high a charging voltage._ 3.A measured voltage of 11.5 is a fully discharged battery. A 1 A trickle charger would need 665 hours (actually even more because of inefficiencies) to fully recharge that battery. 4.Why did you replace the old battery after 10 years? In your almost ideal circumstances it could easily last 25 years. The nature of lead acid batteries is they fail when _fully discharged_. That can kill even a new battery which may be the case now. 5.Logically I must ask: Have you fixed the original problem? Battery failure is likely a secondary problem. Ruling out two bad batteries (the old and new batteries) has the generator become hard starting or else is there another drain on the battery? To find your problem you need to get a fully charged battery and monitor the operation of the generator. Have you cleaned all the terminals and otherwise verified the cables? Does it start hard? Does the started solenoid get warm when not in use? Is there 13.5 to 14.2 volts on the battery posts (don't measure the cable terminals) when the generator is running? When the generator is off is there a battery drain? It may take a milliamp meter to tell but be careful not to use it while charging or you may smoke the meter. Remember ammeters are always placed in series, never in parallel (instant smoke). Try these procedures and get back to us. 73 Fred, AE6QL -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vic K2VCO Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 10:13 AM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question I see that my original post was not clear. I should have said that after the first instance of a dead battery, after the battery was tested and pronounced good, I replaced the VOLTAGE REGULATOR. I'm not sure about the type of electrolyte, whether it's gel or liquid, but I think it is liquid. The battery is sealed, though. The capacity is 665 AH with 540 CCA. I've received several responses to check if the battery is draining when the generator is not running. I should have mentioned that I did this the first time it died, and there was no current drain when it wasn't running. On 4/8/2013 9:15 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote: I know there are those on this list who can help me. I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week for a half hour to charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery lasted for about 10 years! The present battery is about 2 years old. Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery dead. I took the battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they charged it overnight and tested it under load. They said the battery was OK. When I started the generator and checked the charging voltage, it was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I replaced it. Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no load was 11.5V. I left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I checked the voltage and it was 13.5V. The generator started up and the charging voltage was 14.5V. Do I have a bad battery? -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Re: [Elecraft] Filter problems
I don't have a 250 Hz filter, but both of my 400 Hz ones do require a few dB. I am more surprised that your main filter requires NO boost, than that your sub requires 6 dB. How much do others who have 250 Hz filters use? On 4/3/2013 6:32 PM, Jim Miller wrote: I spent some time last night playing with various filter settings via the K3 utility. What I found is that the 250 8p filter in the main required no boost to maintain signal level as I dialed down the bandwidth and engaged it. The suspect one in the subrx required 6db of boost. Has anyone else seen this level of boost required? With the subrx bandwidth increased to be just above its 250hz8p filter the receiver comes alive nicely. I'll open up the K3 this weekend and do a filter inspection to see if there is some crud on the pins and try a filter swap to the main just to verify my suspicion of a bad filter. I may have to order another... jim ab3cv On Wed, Mar 27, 2013 at 12:55 AM, Vic K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com mailto:k2vco@gmail.com wrote: Make sure the filter gain compensation is set properly for the 250 Hz filter. The easiest way to do it is from the filter configuration screen of the K3 utility. On 3/26/2013 5:44 PM, Jim Miller wrote: Just used the K3 utility to disable the 250 8p on the sub and the audio now is balanced regardless of sub bandwidth. Of course the noise level changes but no imbalance with strong or weak sigs between the two. Now to figure out if it's the socket or the filter at fault. jim On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 8:22 PM, Jim Miller j...@jtmiller.com mailto:j...@jtmiller.com wrote: I think I've figured out why my subrx seems to be much less sensitive than the main. I was playing around with the bandwidth control today while having the VFOs linked. I have the same filter setup in main and sub, a 2.8K and a 250hz, both 8 pole. I have both main and sub set to cut to the 250 at 350hz. I do most of my Dx activity with the BW set to 350 so engaging the 250hz filter. What I noticed is that although the sub is much less sensitive than the main with the 250 engaged it is just fine just above where the filter kicks in. This tells me that something is wrong with the filter or the socket it is in. The balance control has to be set past 3 oclock to even out the signals with the 250 engaged in the sub. The balance is just fine however when that filter isn't engaged. I'm going to try moving the filter to another socket in the sub to see what effect that has. I can also try swapping the 250 between the sub and the main to see if the loss of sensitivity tracks the filter placement. Any other ideas? It could be a bad filter. I don't think the filters should be that different in loss when in spec. jim __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Loss of Signal Strength
It's very common that if you have a poor connection in the antenna system -- dirty or oxidized pin in a coax connector, for example, or a poorly soldered connection in a balun -- then hitting it with a little RF will temporarily 'fix' it. On 3/31/13 7:34 PM, Jim - W6VAR wrote: I haven't used my KX3 much since getting it last year, but I brought it to my in-laws for Easter and hooked up my Pac-12 antenna. On 40 meters, I've been getting a strange popping in the signal level. I've also noticed that the signal drops from about an S5 and strong background noise in the audio to becomming very subdued and S1 or less. If I hit the TUNE button momentarily to transmit, the signal goes back up once the radio goes back to receive. Any thoughts? Jim - W6VAR -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Filter problems
Make sure the filter gain compensation is set properly for the 250 Hz filter. The easiest way to do it is from the filter configuration screen of the K3 utility. On 3/26/2013 5:44 PM, Jim Miller wrote: Just used the K3 utility to disable the 250 8p on the sub and the audio now is balanced regardless of sub bandwidth. Of course the noise level changes but no imbalance with strong or weak sigs between the two. Now to figure out if it's the socket or the filter at fault. jim On Tue, Mar 26, 2013 at 8:22 PM, Jim Miller j...@jtmiller.com wrote: I think I've figured out why my subrx seems to be much less sensitive than the main. I was playing around with the bandwidth control today while having the VFOs linked. I have the same filter setup in main and sub, a 2.8K and a 250hz, both 8 pole. I have both main and sub set to cut to the 250 at 350hz. I do most of my Dx activity with the BW set to 350 so engaging the 250hz filter. What I noticed is that although the sub is much less sensitive than the main with the 250 engaged it is just fine just above where the filter kicks in. This tells me that something is wrong with the filter or the socket it is in. The balance control has to be set past 3 oclock to even out the signals with the 250 engaged in the sub. The balance is just fine however when that filter isn't engaged. I'm going to try moving the filter to another socket in the sub to see what effect that has. I can also try swapping the 250 between the sub and the main to see if the loss of sensitivity tracks the filter placement. Any other ideas? It could be a bad filter. I don't think the filters should be that different in loss when in spec. jim __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: For New Hams, How to Tell What an Amp Will Do For Your Signal
Funny -- one guy says get an amp, it's 10 dB! Another says, don't bother, it's only 10 dB. The truth is, it depends on what you are trying to do with your radio. If you are a DXer, especially on 160/80 meters, then even 1 dB may be the difference between getting a QSO and getting a ? from a DX station. If your operating style is to contact stations when signals are relatively good, then who cares if you are S7 or S9? On 3/22/13 8:34 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Yes. An amp that takes you up 10:1 in power, e.g. 20 watts to 200 watts or 100 watts to 1,000 watts, makes a 10 dB difference in signal -- just a bit over one S-unit. I pointed out the beacon resource as a good example of how often that extra power is not needed on H.F., especially for narrow bandwidth modes. Otherwise we would not have QRP enthusiasts using simple verticals with DXCC awards. I liked the idea that new Hams can listen to the beacons themselves and decide whether the power difference is all that important. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- That's a good resource but it doesn't tell the whole story. An amplifier will give you around 10 db improvement in signal on the other end. That's more than the difference between a dipole and a five element monobander. As little as 3 or 4 db will make a significant difference when competing against others in a pileup, and of course as little as 2 db can make the difference between no copy and clear copy if your signal is right at the noise level. http://www.ab7e.com/weak_signal/mdd.html Hams have turned their noses up at amplifiers for decades, but the reality is that an amplifier and a decent vertical is often a more cost effective way to put out a good signal than is low power to a tower and big antenna ... especially if you live in a low noise area where you don't need lots of discrimination to hear DX (and even then there are compact receive loops that make possible alternatives). Dave AB7En 3/22/2013 12:49 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: For the newer hams, here's an interesting resource that will demonstrate to you what a DX signal sounds like at 100 watts, 10 watts, 1 watt and 0.1 watt. All you have to do it tune into the beacon frequency of 14.100, 18.110, 21.150, 24.930, 28.200 using CW mode and listen. The beacon stations in 18 countries take turns sending call signs and 4 dashes, each dash in descending power level. You might be amazed at how often you can hear 10 watts or less clearly from half way around the world when the band is open. When the band is not open, a kilowatt doesn't get through. A complete list of the stations, locations and the transmission sequence is at: http://www.ncdxf.org/beacon/beaconSchedule.html IIRC, all of the stations use a simple 1/4 wave vertical antenna. I'm not saying that an amplifier isn't useful, but this helps put the advantage of having one in perspective. 73, Ron AC7AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT--RFI Issue
My favorite RFI complaint was the lady across the street who said I was making it impossible to use her portable phone. Look, it doesn't work RIGHT NOW, she said. When I pointed out that I couldn't be on the air since I was talking to her, she explained that that thing on your roof is sucking up all the signals! On 3/20/2013 11:33 AM, David Cutter wrote: I have explained it this way: You've had a long, hot summer and it hasn't rained for months. Suddenly it rains and it pours in through the roof that you hadn't noticed had lost a couple of slates. Do you blame the weather or the builder of the house? Similarly, your neighbour can say that he never had interference before, but then, he wasn't aware he had a problem till someone fired up a radio transmitter next door. The rarity of interference from a radio amateur to/from a neighbour is why plasma TVs, switchmode supplies, hi fi systems, video recorders et al have such poor emc performance - it's a cost that is statistically unnecessary to the masses. David G3UNA Often the problem, is convincing the affected party that it really is a defect in their equipment, or installation thereof, and not yours. Of course, you need to be pretty darned sure that is the case! The FCC used to send out a packet of information to people who complained explaining in part, that it was probably their equipment that was inadequate. I don't know if this is still being done. Perhaps you could get one. It sort of breaks the ice. Rich, n0ce -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Is ham radio a sport ??
Foxhunting (the running-around kind) and contesting are certainly sports. DXing could be a sport. Physical activity is not a necessity -- take chess, for example. What about competitive eating? The author of this Wikipedia article thinks it is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Competitive_eating On 3/20/2013 7:50 PM, Scott Manthe wrote: Queen Victoria's definition notwithstanding, anyone who runs 12 or 14 hours straight in a CW contest has shown a great deal of endurance and if they're using a set of paddles, a good deal of physical skill. The term sport has had an expanded definition for decades to include that which is not strictly physical. The shooting sports for example, aside from the biathlon, include activities that don't call for great strength or physical endurance, but can be very exacting, which can be demanding and exhausting in its own way. Personally, I feel that calling contesting- at its most competitive and on the highest levels- radiosport is entirely appropriate. 73, Scott, N9AA On 3/20/13 10:33 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Like most of us in the 'west', I was raised with the idea that a sport was something that required a great deal of physical skill and endurance . -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wait For The K4 Direct RF Sampled SDR?
CW looked a little clicky, too. On 3/15/2013 6:01 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote: Rick Stealey wrote: Speaking of competitive rigs, I see QST just reviewed the FT3000. The number that caught my eye (well actually the chart) was composit noise. A whopping -120 dbc at 10 KHz and beyond ! Yikes. The K3 was -140 dbc at 10 KHz and -155 at 100 KHz. Just to clarify for those who aren't used to hearing these numbers, -140 dBc phase noise is significantly better than -120 dBc. It could mean the difference between having two transceivers coexist or not when in close proximity -- hence Rick's example of Field Day. 73, Wayne N6KR You sure don't want one of those noise generators at your next Field Day. If someone shows up with one, put him on 10 meters at the far end of the field. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] P3 burn-in concerns?
Many times when the backlight burns out on a computer monitor it is not the backlight at all, but rather the switching supply for the backlight that's failed. I've fixed a couple of these. On 3/11/2013 7:12 PM, david Moes wrote: That would depend if the backlight is LED or cold cathode. I service equipment with LCD displays with both types of backlights and burnout is very very rare. on small screens like the P3 the light is not being pushed hard and should last a long long time. As for burn in. One of our machines with a 14 inch LCD display does in fact burn in.It takes a many months of displaying the same image 24/7. The customer never sees the burn as that part of the screen never changes. but with the different screens I use in diagnostics I can see it. If I leave it on a full white screen over night it disapears and doesnt seem to come back for another several months so the burn in seems to not be permanent. on the P3 I doubt this will ever be an issue. David Moes dm...@nexicom.net VE3DVY On 3/11/2013 6:39 PM, Ralph Parker wrote: No. The only possible issue is backlight failure, just like your computer or TV screen. Tnx, Ron, just what I was hoping to hear. I usually turn the radio on in the morning, and off in the evening, longer periods only in a contest. Should I be concerned about the backlight? I've only had two burn out, one in a laptop (NEC) and one on a desktop monitor (Dell). I would suppose that the entire display module would have to be replaced. Ralph, VE7XF -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] What monitor to use?
I am using such a monitor because of space limitations (and because mine was free, too). It is a big improvement over the small screen on the P3 itself. But a bigger monitor is advantageous, because you can spot holes in pileups (etc.) more easily without having to change the span. I think if I had the room, I would get a bigger one. On 3/7/2013 6:09 AM, Paul VanOveren wrote: The SVGA card arrives for my P3 today and I have the opportunity to get a free flat screen monitor 1024 x 768 resolution. Just wondering if that is sufficient or whether I should purchase one with more/higher resolution? Advice anyone.? NF8J -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 mods by I7SWX
I have a hard time not wanting to make my K3 be in the top 0.1%! Practically speaking, I would never experience the improved MDS that was reported because I live in the middle of town, with neighbors a few feet away on all sides. Man-made noises mask receiver noise on all bands most of the time (except perhaps on 6m). In other words, the stock K3 is better than my QTH. I couldn't use a Maserati on the freeway here, either. But of course, what about Field Day? On 3/1/2013 5:40 AM, Giancarlo Moda wrote: Dear Twan, thank you very much for your comment. Wayne is right with his reply. Also right is the comment from Keith, XE3/K5ENS Then again if you want your K3 to be one of the top .1% these mods will help. Certainly these are not mods for normal user, but those looking for the hair in the egg any little improvement can make a difference. Please let me explain how the idea to modify the K3 started. I have dome mods for many commercial equipments from the 70's to the beginning of this century. I was very curious to see if it could be possible to squeeze out some additional performances from the K3. Certainly, I was not expecting any flashing results like obtained on the above equipment. I discovered that the K3 had a removable mixer... what a chance, a way to fiddle with a nice system without going to impair a warranty or damage the radio. One Italiam OM, IT9BLB, of well known Contest stations IT9BLB, IH9P and IR9Y, told me that they had some difficulties to copy week station with the K3 while their modified FT1000MP (more complex mods) was making easier the copy. That pushed me to do a trial and I went ahead with my friend Sergio, IK8TNG. From what we thought interesting results we designed a swappable H-Mode Mixer and made it available assembled and tested to operators without the need to use a soldering iron. Then I studied some additional changes, experimented already in all the other modified radio. If you do really like to see changes, and you have no money for a K3 but you possess a K2, then you will need to use a soldering iron and apply similar mods to it. The problem is space availaibility. You asked Elecraft Are there any plans in the near future to build a new mixer module with this technology? I am not the one to answer, but I do not see any problem why Elecraft could not use the H-Mode Mixer in their expected (?) new K4 in the 2 transformer I7SWX configuration or in the original 3 transformer G3SBI, using the FST3125 or the FSA3157 switches. Note for Eric and Wayne, my configuration is available for you, I will request only a few million $ ... hi The H-Mode Mixer is in the public dominium, probably the only legal aspect is reference to the inventor, G3SBI, and maybe to me for the 2 transformer one. Best 73 Gian I7SWX Message: 17 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 13:00:12 -0800 From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com To: Twan at pa0kv.nl pa...@pa0kv.nl Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 mods by I7SWX Message-ID: 461dacc5-6aae-49d4-8c8a-b93dab3b6...@elecraft.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes Twan, The K3 is one of the highest-performance radios available (very high on everyone's list, including Sherwood's). A small additional improvement in one or two parameters may be of interest to a few operators. The other 99.9% of K3 owners do not need to make any modifications. 73, Wayne N6KR On Feb 28, 2013, at 12:33 PM, Twan at pa0kv.nl wrote: Hi! I just read all about the I7SWX mods and I was wondering what Elecraft's point of view is in this? Are these mods really a major improvement? (Are is it 'crap'..) Are there any plans in the near future to build a new mixer module with this technology? What about the other mods; - terminating the filter bank - PSU voltage regulator noise As allways.. very interested in K3 improvements 8-) 73's Twan - PA0KV K3 - 1770 Message: 20 Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 13:32:03 -0800 (PST) From: Keith-K5ENS ke...@kathyandkeith.mx To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 mods by I7SWX Message-ID: 1362087123842-7570520.p...@n2.nabble.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Then again if you want your K3 to be one of the top .1% these mods will help. 73, Keith, XE3/K5ENS -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] P3 - spikes that never move
This is at least the third message from you that I have seen in which you claim that the spurs you are seeing are an inherent defect of the P3. Others report either that spurs do not appear, or are caused by a cable with a bad braid connection, poor grounding, etc. I personally cannot find such spurs when I disconnect my antenna. So it seems obvious that there is a malfunction in your P3. Several people have suggested that you contact K3 support to get it fixed, which they would undoubtedly do at no charge. But you respond that there is an anomaly in the P3 and that it isn't right for the $$$. Let me add that I had an SM-220, and it wasn't all that 'great'. It certainly didn't come close to the functionality and performance of the P3! On 2/28/2013 4:13 AM, Bill Clarke wrote: This morning I removed the entire shack from AC and left only the K3/P3 on battery and the antennas disconnected. No change on the screen. Bunch of work for nothing and was exactly what I expected. Of note: The ghosts vanish when the band is active - covered by the ambient background noise level. During the day, when the band is dead, this is not the case and the spikes can be seen. Remember, I can not tune to them as they remain in a static location on the scope. Signals move through them as you tune. Having used other forms of band-scopes over the years (including the great SM-220) that only displayed what was actually RF on a band, I am convinced this is something internally generated within the P3. If it was outside of the P3, it would tune (move when the VFO is moved). Perhaps the P3 is overkill and does, or is capable of, way more than what a simple band-scope really needs to do. Such is the day and age of microprocessors - simplicity has been left in the dust of bells and whistles. Rather than continue to worry about this, I am just going to accept it as an anomaly of the P3. It really has no effect other than appearing as signals that are not really there. Once you know what they are, you won't bother trying to tune to them. Does this make it right for the $$$? No, of course not, but it is the easy way out for an old guy that only rag chews on 75 and 40. Thanks for all the comments, Bill W2BLC -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2/10 I Idiom Press CMOS4 Keyer Conflict
You MUST use a stereo plug in the K2 key jack. A mono plug will short the 'ring' connection to ground, which will key the rig. In HAND mode, either tip or ring will key the K2 when grounded. On 2/25/2013 7:15 PM, David Dietrich wrote: Hello Don, I hope you are well. You are a huge help to all of us in the Elecraft and QRP community. Do you have the plug from the CMOS4 wired correctly? I believe so. I bought a 3' cable with RCA Male plugs on both ends, cut the cable in half, and then soldered an 1/8 mono to the cut ends. I did make sure to wire the center wire to the tip of the mono plug and the outer ground wire to the shell/lower shaft of the mono plug. I am going to Ohm things out just to make sure. My only other thought would be to use a stereo plug instead. If that is the case, I might need to go to Radio Shack and get another cable and some stereo connectors this time. Thanks 73, David KC9EHQ On Feb 25, 2013, at 07:59 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: David, Do you have the plug from the CMOS4 wired correctly? There are only 2 lines to connect. The hot line should go to the tip and the ground line from the CMOS4 should connect to the shell. No connection to the ring on the plug. Be certain that the ground from the CMOS4 is wired to he shell of the plug. Either wiring the ground from the CMOS4 to the tip or wiring to the tip and ring (rather than the shell) will cause the behavior you have mentioned. 73, Don W3FPR On 2/25/2013 8:18 PM, David Dietrich wrote: Please reply direct, as I use digest mode and may not get the reply until later. Hi All, I have a K2/10 and an Idiom Press CMOS4 keyer that I would like to use together. I have everything connected properly, the K2 set to Hand for the input device, and the the cables I made are properly fashioned and not shorted. HOWEVER, when I go to send (on either side of my paddles) the K2 goes into total key-down, and the only way to stop it is to turn the rig off OR disconnect the CMOS4. The CMOS4 doesn't seem to be malfunctioning. When I just have paddles connected to the K2, and use the internal keyer, everything works fine. Also, when I have the K2 set to Hand and the paddles connected, everything works fine. I am not sure if the problem is with the CMOS4, K2, or both. I know the CMOS4 works properly since I have been using it since 2008 on my ICOM with nary a problem. Any ideas/input would be appreciated. If the problem is in the CMOS4, I'll E-mail Rob at Idiom Press, but I figured that I would start here. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] annoying problem
If the smoke detector is wired to the AC line, wrapping as many turns of the ac wiring as possible around a ferrite toroid or rod should cure it. The little Radio Shack split toroids sold for this purpose work. Or you could replace it with a battery-powered model. If you already have a battery type, try this: cover the entire unit with aluminum, punching holes everywhere that there are openings in the plastic of the unit. I had to do this with a battery powered CO detector. On 2/1/2013 8:48 AM, haircut...@verizon.net wrote: I was wondering if i can cure an annoying problem when I am sending cw on the hf bands above 15 meters. I have a small mini beam on the roof and my shack is directly under it. When I work the bands above 15 meters my smoke alarm beeps. Its in the hall between the bedrooms, so don't want to move it. Is there a way I can filter this problem without moving the smoke detector? Dumb question, but hate to move the detector.. but will , if I have to Don...w2xb -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [OT] I made a knob, a PigKnob.
I like it. I especially like the ability to assign macros to the buttons. One idea would be to make the device larger and flatter, with more buttons. Many K3 users would like to have a dedicated keypad for band changes. A few more buttons would make this possible. Lots of possibilities -- but the concept is a winner! On 2/1/2013 12:16 PM, Nick Garner wrote: Hello Everyone, A few weeks ago there was a thread on here about a remote tuning knob. This topic has come up every now and then on the mailing lists out there and it's something I've wanted to try to make for a while. I got back the prototype boards yesterday, soldered on the parts, loaded my firmware into the microcontroller and hacked up the enclosure to make it all fit. I made a demo video of it yesterday. It can be viewed here: http://youtu.be/bqBU2L8rbyw It works great with a K3 as well. I was going to use that in the video but my long serial cable has walked off. I'd be happy to hear any feedback, even if it's just, I'd be interested in one. I need to gauge demand before pulling the trigger on making it. Please email me directly to avoid filling the reflector with an OT discussion. 73, Nick N3WG __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] P3
At the risk of adding to the din, here is my favorite use for it: I like to slowly tune the band looking for weak stations that might be DX (*before* they hit the clusters and the whole world jumps in). Without the P3 I might pass a station who was just CQing, but has stopped to listen. With it, I can 'look back in time' and know that I should stay on the frequency for a while. On 1/17/2013 6:10 PM, eric norris wrote: The P3 is great for contesting and DXing, but I find it very useful for casual operating also. You can instantly see when a band is open. You can find the holes in all the man-made noise on 40 meters, and see how it is moving. You can often identify the type of noise--there are online screen shots to compare the noise with. I used this to identify an ultrasonic pest repeller that my neighbor uses that plagues me on 6m. If you're on at odd times, you can find the one signal on at 3am. You can see if other stations are splattering. You can easily see meteor burns on WSJT meteor scatter, and even stronger signals off the moon. After 38 years of hamming, it only took a week for me to feel naked without it. I am looking forward to the eventual added tx monitoring capability. 73 Eric WD6DBM Sent from the metering jack on my Heathkit Twoer -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 A couple of buttons do not work
Try removing and reseating the front panel assembly. Sometimes there are problems with oxidation or dirt on the connectors. On 1/10/2013 9:09 AM, lot...@erding-mail.de wrote: K3 #1300, newest utility, Firmware 4.61 After playing with different functions I suddenly got problem(s): The following buttons don't react, e.g. BAND (up works - down not) and QSK MODE (up works - down not) and TEST SPOT (and PITCH) ANT RATE (and LOCK) NR (NB works) perhaps more problems?? Firmwareupdate - no change Main functions (transmit and receive seem to be OK) Any idea before I have to do a RESET? Lothar, DJ8EW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw
This is s off topic, but I once worked in a carpentry shop where acetone was used to clean contact cement from veneer. On my first day at work, I sat down to eat lunch with my co-workers. After a few seconds, I suddenly felt like my butt was on fire! I jumped up to roars of laughter to find that one of the guys had put a rag that had traces of acetone on it on my chair. I wonder if there are latent defects after all these years? On 12/29/2012 11:16 AM, Fred Townsend wrote: I have shut down production lines because someone snuck acetone onto the line for cleaning. It doesn't have to come in contact to damage plastics and other encapsulating materials used for electronic parts. The vapors are enough to cause latent defects that may take years to mature. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Clock loses time
The only time I ever use it is when I run down to the shack and work a rare DX station before my logging computer has a chance to boot! On 12/28/2012 12:00 PM, Phil Hystad wrote: A corollary question: who actually uses the K3 clock? -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 question
I don't know about spray-on wax. I used to smear it with paste wax. Now I use open-wire line. On 12/24/2012 11:24 AM, Tom H Childers wrote: It seems like I've heard someone suggest that spray-on car wax does a good job of making the ladder line real slippery. I haven't tried it yet, but I have two ladderline pieces on my NVIS loop. Twenty seven feet of feed line and a ten foot stub at the opposite corner that detune a bit in the rain. However when the loop needs to be re-matched I just hit the straight key here and the KAT500 finds a match that works. However I seldom run less than 100 watts. 73, Tom Amateur Radio Operator N5GE ARRL Lifetime Member QCWA Lifetime Member On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 14:01:19 -0500, KD7YZ Bob kd...@denstarfarm.us wrote: On Monday Claire used a Straight-Key to send: -Original Comment--- You don't have to keep that power level, Bob. You only need it if the KAT500 needs to retune, and then only for the retune cycle. For that you might QSY a few KHz On CW or SSB I could try that. With some of these WSJT-Like modes, it's pretty important to be on the same freq u were on, within Hertz; And, call me old, but with about 6 to 10 seconds before the other cycle starts, there isn't a lot of time to QSY and retune. to a clear spot although between five and twenty watts you are only talking about a one S-unit difference in signal. thanks. Although I was more worried about damaging the K3 than the signal strength. The next thing is to find out why your antenna is so sensitive to moisture. hmmm, true. Same when there is ice on it or snow. The other night in a 45mph wind, the 160m DP was going up and down about 30 feet it looked to me. I use blocks and pulley to let it float It was graceful to watch but worrisome too. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] new KPA 500 question
This will depend on the input relay or other switching circuit used in the Commander. Some QSK circuits use a small reed relay in the input and a vacuum relay for the output. In that case it's possible that 500-600w from the KPA500 will be too much for it. Others use a pair of vacuum relays, which would not be a problem. It may also use a single large open-frame relay, which would also be OK (although not QSK). Or it might have a PIN diode switch, in which case it would depend on the details of the circuit. I think the best thing for you to do is to call Command Technologies and ask them about your particular model and serial number. On 12/18/2012 9:44 AM, Bruce McLaughlin wrote: I finally succumbed to temptation and ordered a KPA 500 which will arrive tomorrow. This may be a question that can't be answered on this reflector but I thought I would try. I have an HF 2500 Commander, the Palstar version, which I have been using with the k3 and other radios. I am not sure about how I will integrate the KPA 500 into the station. I have been switching between three different radios and the Commander amplifier using a coax switch to switch the output of the various radios to the input of the Commander. I have been thinking about pulling the output of the k3, running it through the KPA 500 and then running the output of the KPA 500 to the coax switch. With that arrangement the switching would be exactly the same as before. However, I am a little concerned about running 500 Watts into the input Of the Commander even when that amplifier is turned off. I am wondering whether that might damage the input circuits Of the Commander. Does anyone have any suggestions. I should mention That the Commander works just fine with all of the radios but I wanted to complete the K line and experience integrated, completely automatic operation. The lower power from the KPA 500 should not make any significant difference for most contacts. I would appreciate any thoughts on the subject. Bruce-W8FU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Begali Adventure Mono arrives in VK
Robert M. Pirsig? You mean the guy that likes shims made out of cut-up beer cans? Just kidding. I have a K3 and a Begali Pearl and I feel the same way about them. On 12/17/2012 12:55 AM, Glen Torr wrote: Hi All, The Begali Adventure Mono has just arrived here with the KX3 bracket. It is a work of art. I am not a CW expert at all, just a 30 year veteran of intermittent CW operation but I love technical artwork and both the KX3 and Adventure Mono qualify as art. The combination is so special, Robert M. Pirsig would approve. Just had to tell you. Cheers, Glen VK1FB, very excited. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] DX SPOTS IPAD
I just use Telnet to access the clusters. I downloaded an app called Mocha Telnet Lite for this purpose. The clusters themselves have commands for filtering spots. Works fine. On 12/14/2012 6:46 AM, Kenneth Waites K5WK wrote: I wonder if anyone has tested any way of seeing filtered dx spots on an ipad? K5WK -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] How Tin-Whiskers Form
Fascinating, as are the comments following the article. The removal of metallic lead from electronics that should be recycled anyway, in return for a large increase in failures, does not seem to me to be a good deal for civilization (some of the comments mentioned the removal of lead from gasoline, which in contrast was a very good decision). There should be a name for the irrational fear of tiny quantities of substances that would be harmful only in large amounts -- like RF, to give another example. No, I will not answer outraged personal emails on this subject! On 12/10/2012 1:08 AM, VK1OO wrote: All, Over the years there has been the odd thread about tin-whiskers, so the following may be of interest. http://phys.org/news/2012-12-doctoral-student-unravels-tin-whisker.html Mike VK1OO K2#2599 -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 stereo volume balance
As far as I know, there isn't. I've suggested that the CONFIG option (SUB AF = BALANCE) that makes the sub volume control into a balance control also should cause it to be a balance control for the main receiver when the sub is off or not installed. I don't see a downside, but I'm not the programmer! On 12/10/2012 5:34 AM, Mike K2MK wrote: The hearing in my right ear is weak. I use the CM500 headset. Using just the Main RX, I find that my left ear is doing all of the heavy lifting. Lately I've been using the SUB RX in Diversity (with the main antenna) so that I can offset the stereo balance. By applying more SUB RX volume I am able to boost the volume level in my weaker right ear. Is there a way in K3 firmware to re-balance the left and right channels using just the Main RX. If not, is anybody using an external device that accomplishes this task? Preferably one that is immune to RF. 73, Mike K2MK -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-stereo-volume-balance-tp7566991.html ease help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 SWR
It is perfectly safe. The K3 cuts back power when it sees the equivalent reflected power of a 2:1 SWR at 100 watts. So it will operate normally at a 1.8:1 SWR. If the LOWEST SWR is 1.8:1, then it probably exceeds 2:1 somewhere in the band, where you will not be able to get a full 100 watts. I suggest you check the SWR at various points (an antenna analyzer is helpful, but you can just transmit at different frequencies and record the results). Once you find the point of lowest SWR, you can determine how much to lengthen or shorten the antenna to move this point to the center of the band or your favorite spot. As another writer said, it is unlikely that you will get a 1:1 SWR from a coax-fed dipole under most circumstances. The K3 will be happy as long as it is under 2:1 (and you can still operate with reduced power if it is over 2:1). On 12/8/2012 11:16 PM, Jay Krishna wrote: Just completed assembling my new K3/100; I am completely new to this rig, and just getting used to it. In initial transmitter power calibration into a dummy load, I saw an SWR of ~1:1. However, into my 20M mono-band dipole, I see it is ~1.8:1. I am wondering if anybody can help answer these questions: 1. Is it safe to operate the K3 with an SWR as high as 1.8:1 (just eager to test the new K3 on the air)? 2. Do I need to check if there is a problem with my dipole antenna (wet coax, etc.)? Thanks, Jay (KD6AMA) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 + Icon
RIT is NOT disabled when QRQ mode is on. Rather, RIT (or XIT, or SPLIT) turns ORQ mode off while it is on. QRQ mode eliminates the distortion of CW elements that otherwise happens above about 35 wpm otherwise, and it also makes QSK operation smoother and faster. As far as I know, it has only two downsides: it disables the passband shift function, and it shortens the delay from amp key output to RF from 8 to 4 or 5 ms (according to the manual). On 12/4/2012 6:37 AM, Andrew Moore wrote: The + also indicates that RIT is disabled (a side effect of QRQ mode being turned on, for blazing fast QSK). There's been some discussion that limited RIT will be restored while in QRQ mode in the future. 73, --Andrew, NV1B maineware.net .. On Tue, Dec 4, 2012 at 9:26 AM, Dale Boresz d...@lightstream.net wrote: Paul, In CW mode, the + icon indicates that QRQ mode is active. You can toggle it on or off via the Config menu option CW QRQ In SSB mode, the + icon indicates that ESSB is enabled. You can toggle it on and off via the Config menu option TX ESSB. Tap '1' to turn it on and off. It may have other meaning in other contexts or modes, but these are the only two of which I am aware. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 + Icon
The original post suggested that if you turn on QRQ it will turn off RIT. That's not the case. They ARE incompatible, so that RIT (temporarily) forces QRQ off. But you can leave the QRQ parameter in the config menu on, and then you will have it whenever you are not using RIT, XIT or SPLIT. With QRQ off, CW timing is messed up over about 35 wpm with an external keyer. Maybe it goes a little higher with the internal keyer; I'm not sure. But not much. On 12/4/2012 3:07 PM, Andrew Moore wrote: It sounds like it's effectively the same thing, unless I'm just not understanding something. If QRQ is on, and you engage RIT, QRQ is then automatically turned off. So while QRQ is on, you have no RIT. Distortion beyond 35 WPM: I was under the impression that this was addressed - to a limit - during the development of CW+ (QRQ) mode, and that QRQ mode (further) extended that limit to nearly WPM with accurate elements. That is, even without QRQ mode enabled, accurate timing of elements was achieved to some WPM beyond 35. Wayne, can you clarify? Is QRQ mode required for accurate timing at any speed above 35? 73, --Andrew, NV1B maineware.net http://maineware.net .. On Tue, Dec 4, 2012 at 11:05 AM, Vic K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com mailto:k2vco@gmail.com wrote: RIT is NOT disabled when QRQ mode is on. Rather, RIT (or XIT, or SPLIT) turns ORQ mode off while it is on. QRQ mode eliminates the distortion of CW elements that otherwise happens above about 35 wpm otherwise, and it also makes QSK operation smoother and faster. As far as I know, it has only two downsides: it disables the passband shift function, and it shortens the delay from amp key output to RF from 8 to 4 or 5 ms (according to the manual). -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
