Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S Accessory Interest List

[j...@kk9a.com]

Inrad made the 8-pole filters  https://www.inrad.net/home.php?cat=140 and
they should still be available.  I am not sure where the 5 and 6 pole
filters were made.

 John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.


On Wed, Aug 5, 2020 at 8:42 AM Henry Pollock - K4TMC 
wrote:

> The list at that link does not include filters.  So what does one do if
> they want a filter?
>
> 73,
> Henry - K4TMC
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 5, 2020 at 8:03 AM  wrote:
>
>>
>> I have no interest in a KIO3B but I happened to click on the link in
>> Pete's post and saw that this is an interest list for a number of
>> K3/K3S options such as the DVR, sub receiver, antenna tuner, pan
>> adapter etc.  The K3 line is a very popular line and the K3S was only
>> recently discontinued. I hope that this K line will be around for a
>> long time and unlike Windows 7, support will continue! A month or so
>> ago I purchased antenna tuners for my K3S's and I may have received
>> the last ones. I changed the email subject and I urge anyone who wants
>> K3/K3S accessories to click on the link below.
>>
>> John KK9A
>>
>>
>> N4ZR wrote:
>>
>> Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ]
>> I just heard from Elecraft Sales that they are not going to fill my
>> mid-June order for the KIO3B update kit unless they get sufficient
>> interest to get "reasonable" prices from their suppliers.  They don 't
>> define what that means, but if you have any interest at all in the K3
>> KIO3B update kit, go to
>>
>> 
>>
>> and tell them so - otherwise they may never restock these excellent
>> updates for the K3.
>>
>>
>> 73, Pete N4ZR
>>
>>
>> __
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>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] anyone recommend where to buy a SERIAL to USB cable for a k3

[j...@kk9a.com]

If you order something else with the KUSB from DX Engineering you can also
get free shipping!

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.


On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 7:00 PM Dave  wrote:

> I ordered my KXUSB-A cable from DX Engineering. Closer to me, faster
> shipping.
>
> I see you have a 6 area call. If you are in CA then ordering from Elecraft
> should be faster. For those of us on the east coast there are alternatives.
>
> Dave wo2x
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jan 25, 2020, at 6:20 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> >
> > You don't need to talk to a human to order a KUSB, it's on the Elecraft
> website.
> >
> > John KK9A
> >
> > Richard Donner WA6KYR wrote:
> >
> > Thanks everyone
> > Wow I got many responses,Bob, Ray, Max,
> > Thank you for the replies.  I will call Elecraft Monday.
> > 73 Richardwa6kyr
> >
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s availability

[j...@kk9a.com]

Thanks Eric.  I suspected this, especially the continued support. Elecraft
has done an excellent job of not obsoleting older radios. I own three K3Ss
and it's comforting to hear the official word.

73,
John KK9A/4

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.


On Thu, Jun 20, 2019 at 3:12 AM Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft <
e...@elecraft.com> wrote:

> Our current plan is to keep the K3S in the product line as long as demand
> is sufficient to economically produce it. We are certainly still shipping
> new K3S orders weekly and have sufficient parts inventory to keep
> manufacturing them at this time. We also are still strongly supporting
> existing K3 and K3S owners.
>
> 73,
> Eric
> Waking up in Friedrichshafen after 24 hrs of travel and getting over my
> jet lag.
> elecraft.com
> _..._
>
>
>
> > On Jun 20, 2019, at 4:33 AM,   wrote:
> >
> > I asked the same question on May 16 and I got no official response. I
> hope
> > that the K3S remains in their product line, it is perfect for my needs.
> >
> > John KK9A
> >
> >
> > Robert KE2NY wrote:
> >
> >
> > Will the K3s continue to be sold? The Japanese manufacturers sell
> > several radios at different price points with different specifications.
> > Would it be able and profitable for Elecraft to keep the K3s in
> production?
> >
> > ...robert
> > --
> > Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
> > rcrgs at verizon.net.usa
> > Syracuse, New York, USA
> >
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filters

[j...@kk9a.com]

That explains it, thanks.

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.


On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 1:12 PM Nr4c  wrote:

> The old 400Hz filter was a 8 pole variety. It’s been replaced by a new and
> probably better 6 pole filter. As have several others.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
> > On Jun 18, 2019, at 12:04 PM, "j...@kk9a.com"  wrote:
> >
> > So does Elecraft no longer sell this filter:
> > http://www.inrad.net/product.php?productid=150=140
> >
> > John KK9A
> >
> > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.
> >
> >
> >> On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 11:34 AM Wayne Burdick 
> wrote:
> >>
> >> The KFL3A is an 8-pole filter.
> >>
> >> The KFL3C is a 6-pole filter. In a 400 Hz bandwidth, performance will be
> >> virtually indistinguishable from the 8-pole.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Wayne
> >> N6KR
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Jun 18, 2019, at 8:21 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>> The new Elecraft site is a little vague regarding roofing filters so I
> am
> >>> going by memory.  I have two filters in my cart KFL3A-2.8K-IR  and
> >> KFL3C-400
> >>> for my third K3S. Before I hit the purchase button I want to be sure
> that
> >>> these are both 8 pole filters.
> >>>
> >>> John KK9A
> >>>
> >>> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.
> >>> __
> >>> Elecraft mailing list
> >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> >>>
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> >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >>> Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com
> >>
> >>
> > __
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>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filters

[j...@kk9a.com]

So does Elecraft no longer sell this filter:
http://www.inrad.net/product.php?productid=150=140

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.


On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 11:34 AM Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> The KFL3A is an 8-pole filter.
>
> The KFL3C is a 6-pole filter. In a 400 Hz bandwidth, performance will be
> virtually indistinguishable from the 8-pole.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
>
>
> > On Jun 18, 2019, at 8:21 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> >
> > The new Elecraft site is a little vague regarding roofing filters so I am
> > going by memory.  I have two filters in my cart KFL3A-2.8K-IR  and
> KFL3C-400
> > for my third K3S. Before I hit the purchase button I want to be sure that
> > these are both 8 pole filters.
> >
> > John KK9A
> >
> > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.
> > __
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> >
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> > Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com
>
>
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[Elecraft] Roofing Filters

[j...@kk9a.com]

The new Elecraft site is a little vague regarding roofing filters so I am
going by memory.  I have two filters in my cart KFL3A-2.8K-IR  and KFL3C-400
for my third K3S. Before I hit the purchase button I want to be sure that
these are both 8 pole filters.

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.
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[Elecraft] K3/100 Voltage Drop when transmitting

[j...@kk9a.com]

I suspect the problem is the power supply and Don has some good
suggestions. I am not sure what the actual K3 power requirements are.
FWIW, Astron's are rated for ICS, if you really want 25 amps continuous
you need a 35 amp linear power supply.

John KK9A



Don Wilhelm donwilh at embarqmail.com
M
Jimmy,

Astron power supplies have a nasty habit of having loose wiring
terminals.  They use only pressure to hold the ring terminals on the
inside to the terminal bolts.
If you can detect even a slight rotation of the bolt when tightening
terminals on the outside, remove the covers and tighten those bolts from
the inside.

The other problem is improperly assembled APP connectors.  If you look
straight into the end of the connector, if you can see the tip of 2
blades in either side, give the contact blade an extra push from the
wire side until the contact blade locks over the locking tab.
That is also a cause of APP connectors which tend to pull out with very
little tension.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/25/2019 2:12 PM, James Walker wrote:
> I have a K3 that behaves similarly to what Mike described. I switched
from an Astron 25 amp (15 years or more old) power supply to a switching
power supply. Problem solved. One would think the problem was my Astron
power supply, but I don’t see any such power drop when I use my Astron
with other 100 watt rigs. Very strange.
>
> Jimmy Walker, WA4ILO
> Macon, GA

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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a way to switch an antenna input to the KAT500

[j...@kk9a.com]

W2VJN and N3RD from Top Ten Devices are great helpful guys. I have been
using their band decoders for decades and we have both operated from the
same station in St Croix. I also have a Top Ten 6 way antenna relay box
that I only use only on contest expeditions with a single radio. It is
small, light weight and easily fits in my suitcase. This is not a
heavy-duty relay, you cannot run legal limit RTTY though it. Also the
SO-239 center connectors are recessed which might cause an issue with some
crimped PL-259's.  To use their relays for an SO2R station would require a
lot of relay boxes and they claim isolation >40dB. For me a single 2 x 6
box is a better choice, Array Solutions SixPak claims >55dB which Jim
confirmed.

John KK9A


Jim Brown K9YC wrote:
On 2/17/2019 6:26 PM, Randy Farmer wrote:
> I concur with the comments on the Top Ten 2-way switches. I'm using
> about 10 of them at various places in my SO2R contest station antenna
> and BPF switching networks. They work well and have good isolation. I

On the basis of my measurements with a Vector Network Analyzer, I am NOT
impressed with these switches, and consider them poorly designed. The
major design flaw is that they depend upon the chassis for signal
return, so the signal path gets increasingly badly mismatched at 15M and
above. I didn't measure crosstalk, but this design error would certainly
impact it. I reduced the mismatch by about half by adding braid from the
coax connectors to the circuit board and following (as best I could) the
signal path to provide a return. Why? Because the "ground" layer is
broken under the top layer, so it can't act as a return either!

Someone cited 50 dB as "good isolation." When I replaced my WX0B 6x2, I
measured isolation of about 55 dB. The replacement, a 4O3A 6x2, measured
75 dB worst case. And other one I'm using now, the 4O3A Antenna Genius,
measures better than 95 dB worst case.

If you look inside a well designed power amp, you'll see transmission
line running from input and output for both TX and RX path. My Ten Tec
Titans were built that way, and so is the KPA500. You'll also see
mini-coax jumpers tying sections of the K3 together.

73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] KPA500 external mains switch

[j...@kk9a.com]

You did not specify why you want an external mains switch. I have a 240v
surge protector in my electrical panel, it covers the whole house.

John KK9A


K7FD wrote:

Is anyone in the US using a separate 220v external mains switch on their
KPA500? I'm wondering where these are available. Or is anyone using a 220
v surge protector? Are these available for the NEMA 6-15 plug?

John K7FD

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[Elecraft] 500Hz Filter Offset Question

[j...@kk9a.com]

I was curious what the real bandwith of the 500Hz filter is and I found
this nice article.

http://www.nccc.cc/archived_meetings/pdf/K3%20Filters,%20Jan%202009.pdf

FWIW, I really like the 8pole 400Hz which I have turn on at 450Hz.

John KK9A

Ed W0YK wrote:

"Out of Stock"
Scott will order a batch if there is enough interest, usually 10 minimum.
73,Ed W0YK

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[Elecraft] whats a updated K3 called?

[j...@kk9a.com]

Bad idea. If I purchased a used K3s and received a modified K3 I would be
most unhappy.

John KK9A




Rich k3RWN

I kind of like

K3s (lower case S) is modified K3

K3S (upper case S) is the new radio

Rich

K3RWN

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts indicated

[j...@kk9a.com]

It would be nice to know what conditions caused this FET failure. Is there
an easy way to know when this failure occurs other than getting crappy
audio reports?

John KK9A


Peter Dougherty (W2IRT) wrote:


This happened to me at the start of CQWW-SSB in October. My K3s is finally
enroute back home after a 6 week stay in the Elecraft Repair Department
with a blown FET in the HPA, cause unknown. And I know I've been told I'm
not the only one to suffer this failure, and it sounds like this is now a
known issue.

Does anybody have an idea as to what could be causing these FETs to fail,
or steps to consider to lessen the chances of it happening? I can't speak
for anybody else, but I baby the heck out of my gear and was shocked to
discover it failed, when feeding directly into a KPA-1500.


Regards,
Peter Dougherty, W2IRT

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-bounces at
mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes Stewart
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2018 4:55 PM
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Suddenly Putting Out Only 25 watts at 100 watts
indicated

If you have another receiver, run a two-test and listen to the K3 output in a
narrow BW.  Ideally, the two tones will be considerably stronger than the
first
pair of sidebands.

I suspect they won't be, you'll have a lot more than two and you have a blown
FET in the HPA.

Wes  N7WS

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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Efficiency As A Function of Input Power

[j...@kk9a.com]

What is the Oh Jeeze about? I found K5UA's efficiency data surprising that
the amp dissipates nearly the same amount of heat regardless of power
level. Your comment was "I really do NOT understand why this data is so
surprising." You obviously know much more about RF amplifiers than I do. I
subscribe to this list to learn. So, my next question was if the heat
generated is approximately the same with all power levels, why do RTTY ops
use lower power. I am assuming that heat is what destroys finals or other
amp components. Perhaps there is a power supply limitation or that tube
amps have a more linear efficiency so lower power really means less heat.
Of course RTTY has a higher duty cycle than CW and SSB, that was not my
question. The RTTY duty cycle is the same whether you run 500 watts or
1500. If the amplifier heating is about the same at both power levels due
to higher efficiency at higher power than why not use the maximum power
for RTTY (assuming that you have an antenna and coax that can handle it)?

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.




Charlie K3ICH wrote:


Oh Jeeeze...

Almost ALL amps in current use are NOT rated for continuous power output.

Only the most recent SS amp builders which use devices themselves rated for
3x or 4X their rated output would dare to specify 100% duty cycle.

Only a few tube type amps are rated at 100% duty cycle too and they also use
severe over-kill in their PA devices, such as a pair of 8877's or maybe
three,  3-500ZG's etc.

I would venture to say that 85% of the current amplifiers in use today are
NOT rated for 100% duty cycle, so THAT's why they back off on the RTTY
output.


73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of john at kk9a.com
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 9:43 AM
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Efficiency As A Function of Input Power

So why do most RTTY users run their amps at reduced power?

John KK9A


From: Charlie K3ICH
Date: Fri Aug 17 09:24:18 EDT 2018


I really do NOT understand why this data is so surprising.
It all seems to me to be perfectly normal with the amplifier's highest
efficiency occurring at near max output.
Which curiously, I would assume,  is the way the amp was designed.

Think zero output with zero drive = zero efficiency.
Apply some drive, read some output and the efficiency goes up from there.

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net  On Behalf Of john at kk9a.com
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 8:57 AM
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Cc: charles at k5ua.com
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Efficiency As A Function of Input Power

Interesting data, Charles.  I assumed that running the KPA1500 (or KPA500)
at lower power would keep the fan from running as much. I knew that
efficiency changed with output power but I did not expect that it was this
significant. If your data is correct there is 1000++ watts of heat to
dissipate no matter what power level you use.

John KK9A

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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Efficiency As A Function of Input Power

[j...@kk9a.com]

So why do most RTTY users run their amps at reduced power?

John KK9A


From: Charlie K3ICH
Date: Fri Aug 17 09:24:18 EDT 2018


I really do NOT understand why this data is so surprising.
It all seems to me to be perfectly normal with the amplifier's highest
efficiency occurring at near max output.
Which curiously, I would assume,  is the way the amp was designed.

Think zero output with zero drive = zero efficiency.
Apply some drive, read some output and the efficiency goes up from there.

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of john at kk9a.com
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2018 8:57 AM
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Cc: charles at k5ua.com
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Efficiency As A Function of Input Power

Interesting data, Charles.  I assumed that running the KPA1500 (or KPA500)
at lower power would keep the fan from running as much. I knew that
efficiency changed with output power but I did not expect that it was this
significant. If your data is correct there is 1000++ watts of heat to
dissipate no matter what power level you use.

John KK9A

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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Efficiency As A Function of Input Power

[j...@kk9a.com]

Interesting data, Charles.  I assumed that running the KPA1500 (or KPA500)
at lower power would keep the fan from running as much. I knew that
efficiency changed with output power but I did not expect that it was this
significant. If your data is correct there is 1000++ watts of heat to
dissipate no matter what power level you use.

John KK9A


From: charles k5ua
Date: Fri Aug 17 01:17:49 EDT 2018

Upon further testing, I have found that the efficiency of the KPA-1500
is varies greatly with driving power.  The following table illustrates
the relationships between exciter power, voltage, current,
power-in(voltage x amps), power-out, efficiency, and dissipated power.
The following test was made with the KPA-1500 into a dummy load and
readings from the KPA-1500 utility software.

(Exciter)(Amps) (Voltage) (Power-In) (Power-Out) (Efficiency Pout/Pin)
(Dissipated Pwr)
   10w 29a 52.7v 1528w   375W375/1528 = 24.5%
1205w
   15w 37a 52.7v 1950w   620w620/1950 = 31.7%
1335w
   20w 43a 52.6v 2262w   861w861/2262 = 38.0%
1413w
   25w 47a 52.6v 2472w  1060w   1060/2472 = 42.8%
1451w
   30w 51a 52.6v 2682w  1227w   1227/2682 = 45.7%
1420w
   35w 53a 52.5v 2782w  1380w   1380/2782 = 49.5%
1412w
   40w 55a 52.5v 2887w  1497w   1497/2887 = 51.9%
1382w
   45w 56a 52.5v 2940w  1600w   1600/2940 = 54.4%
1313w
   50w 57a 52.5v 2992w  1703w   1703/2992 = 56.9%
1315w
   53w 59a 52.5v 3097w  1825w   1825/3097 = 58.9%
1306w

The remarkable thing is that DISSIPATED POWER appears to be relatively
constant from 375w output through 1825w output.  This implies the
KPA-1500 will need to dissipate nearly the same amount of heat at low
power output as at high power output, if I am interpreting the data
correctly. I would like to know from Elecraft if this is normal
behavior.

Charles  K5UA

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[Elecraft] Adding Filters to K3

[j...@kk9a.com]

I have five filters in my main receiver and only two in my subreceiver .
Only 400Hz filters are common in both. I have the identical setup in two
separate K3S's and it works great for my HF contesting needs where I use
the sub for SO2V. If you want to use diversity reception you may want at
least some matching filters.

John KK9A



from: Frank k6fw
Wed Aug 8 00:34:36 EDT 2018

I have an Elecraft K3 with a subreceiver with 3 of the 5 slots filled
with filters.  For SSB both the main and sub receivers have a 2.8 khz.
filter.  I have one 1.8 khz. filter I would like to add to the main
receiver.  Can I add this filter to the main receiver and leave the
corresponding sub receiver slot vacant?  I understand only the main
receiver would benefit from the 1.8 khz filter and I am fine with that.
The sub receiver would still use the 2.8 khz. filter I assume.  Any
thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Frank

K6FW

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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Supply Cable Size

[j...@kk9a.com]

That is why I said "IF" you are making a longer cable...

John KK9A

David Bunte K9FN wrote:


I am also a bit confused (not the first time), but I could have SWORN that
the initial query was from someone who wanted a SHORTER cable.

Dave - K9FN

On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 3:45 PM john at kk9a.com  wrote:

> Elecraft was my first experience with power pole connectors and I have
> purchased custom cables from Powerwerx. They did a nice job, eventually I
> purchased a crimper and connectors and made cables myself. If you are
> making the KPA1500 cable longer than the factory cable it is probably
> desirable to use a larger diameter. The factor may not be able to
> accommodate this since the 75 amp connector is made for 6 awg max.
>
> John KK9A

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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Supply Cable Size

[j...@kk9a.com]

Elecraft was my first experience with power pole connectors and I have
purchased custom cables from Powerwerx. They did a nice job, eventually I
purchased a crimper and connectors and made cables myself. If you are
making the KPA1500 cable longer than the factory cable it is probably
desirable to use a larger diameter. The factor may not be able to
accommodate this since the 75 amp connector is made for 6 awg max.

John KK9A


Richard Thorne rthorne at rthorne.net
Wed Aug 1 14:15:28 EDT 2018

Mike,

I went directly to Elecraft with my question. The answer is 6g.

I was told to be sure to use the correct crimp tool for the job.  If I
make the cable I'll probably just have Powerwerx handle it as they have
the correct hydraulic tool for the job.

Rich - N5ZC

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[Elecraft] The ProSet - K2 Boom Headset - Left channel only...

[j...@kk9a.com]

I would contact Heil, they should fix it under warranty.

John KK9A



Clay Autery KY5G wrote:

Anyone ever had a ProSet two fail to deliver two channel output when
everything is set up correctly (aka bad cable or failed R channel solder
joint at one end or the other)?

My Elmer has a set bought in April of this year and has never been able
to get right channel.  I took it today to try on my K3s with known good
setup for 2-channel into phones (Sennheiser HD598SE).

Same problem on my radio...  no right channel.  Almost HAS to be 1)
solder joint failure on one of the wires to the driver, 2) a right
channel (+) solder failure at the 1/8" TRS, 2) failed right driver.
It's a non-coiled three cable-bonded cord...  so I am assuming 3
conductors with shields for ground.

He's ordered a new cable, but I want to make sure it's not something we
have both not considered before replacing the cable.  I guess he could
warranty repair, et al. but he doesn't want to be without a functional
headset for weeks.

73,

-- 
__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

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[Elecraft] Anyone near an FM station on ~97.1

[j...@kk9a.com]

When I lived near Chicago I heard a mixture of two AM broadcast on 80m
using a 160' high rotating dipole. I assumed that something was rectifying
but I never found the solution. I am curious if you are received this
interference while using bandpass filters.

John KK9A



Mike Wetzel W9RE wrote:

I have had an interference problem on the top part of 15 meters (21380 to
21450) from an FM station 1 mile from my house whose frequency is 97.1Mhz.
It peaks about S6 and is quite noticeable with only coax connected and no
antenna selected.  I have (2) -K3 and it is present on both.  I installed
new synth boards in one but the interference is still there.  It sounds like
a very broad FM signal.  I had the station engineer do a spectrum search and
he found no issues.  I do not find this interference on an Icom radio.



Has anyone else experienced this and if so have you found any solutions?  I
did a check of just the K3 (a  year or so ago) on battery power and no other
connections and it was still present although much weaker.



Thanks,



Mike W9RE

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[Elecraft] Amp comparisons

[j...@kk9a.com]

K7ERQ left EHAM reviews on both, it would be nice if he wrote a
comparison.  A couple things not mentioned below is that the Flex amp is
SO2R capable and has a higher list price.

John KK9A


K9MA wrote:


On 7/23/2018 21:37, Gary K9GS wrote:
> Any side by side with the KPA1500 and the Flex Power Genius yet?
>
I haven't seen any yet. I did have a conversation last year with 4O3A,
designer of the Power Genius. From what Ranko said, the Flex amp seemed
to have more headroom than the KPA1500, which might result in better
linearity at 1.5 kW, albeit at the expense of efficiency. (The specs say
"capable of 2 kW.") There is some scheme to dynamically adjust the
supply voltage for higher efficiency at lower power, I presume for CW
and RTTY, where linearity isn't a big issue. I read somewhere that
supply voltage is NOT modulated in SSB mode, which I imagine would cause
lots of nonlinearity.  The Flex amp can do predistortion with their
radios. However, the KPA1500 also has an output sampling port, which
should allow it to do predistortion also with a radio capable of it,
probably including the Flex. (I wouldn't be surprised if Elecraft came
out with that feature eventually. Could that be the reason it has that
sampling port?)

The Flex amp has an external ATU, which 4O3A strongly favors, but I
think that's a personal preference. For most stations, with antennas
that aren't always below 1.5:1, a solid state amplifier without an ATU
is pretty useless, so I think Elecraft's decision to integrate it makes
sense.

While the Flex amp can certainly be made to work with Elecraft radios,
the seamless integration with the KPA1500 is very attractive. I'm happy
with mine so far.

73,

Scott K9MA

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[j...@kk9a.com]

Nice documentation. My KPA500 also makes this clicking noise so I would
say that your amp is functioning normally. Apparently many people on this
list do not find it objectionable. My KPA500 is just a backup / casual use
amp but I would still send it in if there was a mod to fix this. I wonder
if the KPA1500 also clicks?

Back to the vanity callsign net...

John KK9A


ANDY DURBIN K3WYC wrote:


I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording while
making a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be found here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0


One file is the raw recording.  The second has been processed in Audacity
to amplify to 0 dB peak.  The file starts before the first TX. Next the
hum of the transformer can be heard with FT8 modulation in the background
from TX moni.   As the recording progresses the changes in fan speed can
be heard.   The click are always well above the fan noise.

I used this recording to perform some spectral analysis of the clicks.  I
took one sample at the click and another sample of the noise just before
the click.  I then subtracted the noise from the click and I think I have
a reasonable click signature to use as a baseline for evaluating any
mechanical changes I make in an attempt to reduce the clicks.

Crank it up and enjoy, especially if you think it's normal.

73,
Andy k3wyc

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[Elecraft] 12v for KAT500, et al

[j...@kk9a.com]

Probably the only commercial option is a Powerwerx distribution panel.
Then you will need cables with a round connector on one end and a
Powerwerx on the other. Until buying Elecraft products I never used
Powerwerx connectors. Many years ago I took a small 4amp Astron power
supply, drilled a bunch of holes in the front panel and added 12v round
jacks. Then I made a bunch of 6' patch cords with the round connector on
both ends. This worked so well that I constructed a second power supply
for my station in Aruba.

John KK9A


Dennis Haarsager wrote:

My new KAT500 adds yet another 12v pigtail to many others in my shack.
Does anyone make a box of some sort to collect and organize all these to a
12v supply? Thanks.

Dennis, N7DH/1, MM/N7DH

Sent from my iPhone

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[Elecraft] Breakers for KPA1500?

[j...@kk9a.com]

I based that statement on the 20amp KPA1500 rating shown on page 28 of
their manual. Obviously this is incorrect or it is very inefficient, but
still a station can have multiple heavy duty rotators, computers, multiple
transceivers, etc.

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740301%20KPA1500%20Owners%20Manual%20Rev%20A8.pdf

John KK9A


Jim Brown jim at audiosystemsgroup.com

On 7/10/2018 9:13 AM, john at kk9a.com wrote:
> Yes you can run three conductor
> Romex and have a 120v and 240v outlet but I do not see this as a good plan
> as it could easily exceed 20 amps on one leg. Upgrading to higher amperage
> circuit and you'll exceed the amperage rating for a standard 120v outlet.
> Two separate circuits are much easier to manage.

It's hard to imagine how 20A on a 240V circuit split to 120V outlets
(with neutral) could be exceeded in a single operator ham station
running legal power, and powering only ham gear from that circuit. Let's
say that the power amp is drawing 15A keydown. That's 3.6kW, and you
still have 5A at 120V on each of the two legs. Now, let's say that you
have an Astron 14.4V supply running on one of those outlets powering a
tranceiver, even two or three tranceivers, only one of them TX at a
time. I find it hard to believe that the Astron draws more than 3A,
probably less. Add an old big iron computer to the other leg, maybe 1A
on that leg. Indeed, a second power amp could be running off that
circuit as long as only one is in TX mode at a time!

73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] Breakers for KPA1500?

[j...@kk9a.com]

Neither Tony or I suggested making a 120v circuit from the two wire 240v
line using the ground as the neutral.  Yes you can run three conductor
Romex and have a 120v and 240v outlet but I do not see this as a good plan
as it could easily exceed 20 amps on one leg. Upgrading to higher amperage
circuit and you'll exceed the amperage rating for a standard 120v outlet. 
Two separate circuits are much easier to manage.

John KK9A


Don Wilhelm W3FPR wrote:

Tony,

While it is possible and safe to use only two wires plug safety ground
(Green Wire Ground) for a 240 volt receptacle or 240 volt only device
(in-home air conditioner, dryer, etc), it is quite unsafe to split off
for a 120 volt supply using one hot and ground - in that case (such as a
range that has a 120 volt outlet on it or a 120 volt fan) you MUST run 3
conductors plus ground.
The ground wire should never carry current.
An inspector would never approve it, and if you value your insurance
coverage, don't try it - it will be found after the fire!

73,
Don W3FPR

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[Elecraft] Breakers for KPA1500?

[j...@kk9a.com]

I concur, I used Romex which had 2 conductors plus a ground. Perhaps he
meant that the ground wire should be the same size as the two conductors
but I am not sure how much control you have over this using standard
cable. While adding this circuit I also ran a dedicated 120v outlet for
the radio and rotators.

John  KK9A

N2TK, Tony wrote:

I do not understand the need for three wires plus ground. For a clothes
dryer outlet a neutral is required to get 110VAC from one of the phases to
the neutral. But for amps you only need both phases and a ground. The
plugs are three wire, not four.
73,
N2TK, Tony

On 7/9/2018 12:26 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> I would also suggest using three -  #10 with ground as the line from
> the breakers to the amp operating position.


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[Elecraft] sub receiver not receiving

[j...@kk9a.com]

Make sure that the SUB ANT is switched to your active antenna.

John KK9A


Madison Jones w5mikejuliet at gmail.com

[This happened once before and I forgot what the easy fix is.] K3 Sub
receiver doesn't receive. What have I forgotten to check?

Madison
W5MJ

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[Elecraft] K-Line Climate Control

[j...@kk9a.com]

I stored three Yaesu FT1000MP Mark-V's along with other electronics plus
computers inside my Aruba home and the A/C was not on. There were no heat
or humidity related failures. I see no reason that Elecraft radios and
amps would not work after being stored this way. The proposed shed may be
even hotter, I would recommend venting and insulating at least the roof.
As far as running equipment in a shed, it probably would not like the
extreme temperatures. Perhaps a small heater and A/C can be remotely
turned on.

John KK9A aka P40A



Bob McGraw K4TAX rmcgraw at blomand.net
Wed Jul 4 20:26:28 EDT 2018

My shop is about 300 ft from our house.  In a corner of my 25' x 50'
building {not a garage}, I have enclosed a 12' x 15' area, where I
insulated the walls and ceiling.   This is my radio room which has my
test bench and equipment from a former service repair business.  
investment. Due to the investment in the equipment and radios, I
maintain a constant environment year around.   Heating, cooling and
humidity control.

Most electronics components have a "storage" environment set of values
and an "operating" set of values.  These are usually values of
temperature and humidity, and in some cases altitude.

Just do what and as you think regarding the value for your equipment and
hobby.Personally, I certainly would not expose my Elecraft equipment
to long term uncontrolled environment conditions without expecting to
have problems.

73

Bob, K4TAX

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[Elecraft] KPA500 Fan Question

[j...@kk9a.com]

I have never been on FT8 mode and I rarely use my KPA500 so take this with
a grain of salt. I would set the fan to a speed that provides some air
flow without being annoying. Perhaps speed 2 or 3, if I recall correctly.
This should at least delay it turning on the noisier higher speed speed
fan and may minimize some of the cool down clicking.

John KK9A


from: Bob McGraw K4TAX
date: Tue Jul 3 09:24:13 EDT 2018

In running my KPA500 on FT-8 mode at about 400 watts output, what is the
recommended setting for Fan CTL?I usually keep it in NORmal but have
tried other settings.  I watch the TEMP and see that it gets above
65ºC.   The fan speed increments up and down as the temperature changes
accordingly.  All appears norms.But, do you find setting the Fan CTL
to some value is more efficient in regard to cooling?

Thanks in advance for your inputs.

73
Bob, K4TAX

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[Elecraft] [K3] factory upgrade to K3(s)

[j...@kk9a.com]

I have seen more than a few people selling a K3 but advertising it as a
K3S. When you look into their radio more you learn that it was a K3
upgraded to a claimed K3S.  While it is fantastic that an older K3 can be
upgraded, it will still never be a K3S and should not be called one.

John KK9A



KE2WY wrote:

If I send my K3 w/ new synthesizer into Elecraft for the full K3(s)
upgrade, what will such an upgrade include and what will be the
approximate cost. Thanks.
...robert
-- 
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rcrgs at verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA


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[Elecraft] KPOD

[j...@kk9a.com]

I was happy with my K3S setup but once Elecraft announced this product I
had to try one. I found that having a RIT control right by my keyboard to
be very handy for contesting. I was never big into custom radio
programming but I found these buttons easy to program and quite useful. I
liked my K-POD so much that I purchased a second one.

John KK9A


Edward NI6S


Is anybody using the KPOD and if so, seeing it’s benefit?

73,
Ed NI6S

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[Elecraft] K3S HI SIGNAL

[j...@kk9a.com]

What does tip to tip mean - pointing 90 degrees apart?

Don't you use verticals for your mult stations at W3LPL to minimize in
band interference?  How far are they from the Yagis?

John KK9A


Frank Donovanf W3LPL wrote:

We routinely operate three or more K3 transceivers on the same band
at W3AO, four on the band our GOTA station is operating. Not only
is there no damage to the K3s and no HI SIG warnings, we don't hear
any cross-station interference at all!


The trick is to use horizontally polarized antennas installed tip-to-tip
with at least 100 feet of spacing between each other.


73
Frank
W3LPL

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 connecting cable to K3

[j...@kk9a.com]

Since the N6TV Y-Box works using two 2 1/2' cables, you should have no
issues.  Longer DE15 cables are available if you look hard enough.

John KK9A


Bill Stravinsky k3wjv wrote:

 I purchased two aux cables so I could put the amp on a separate side
table with my Acom 2000A.  It was interesting that I never got a direct
answer on the exact length of a single cable, hi, but the two cables
together were a perfect decision.
BillK3WJV

On Saturday, June 16, 2018, 10:31:43 AM EDT, Art via Elecraft
 wrote:

 Is there any provision for extending the standard Elecraft cable that is
only about 3 ft to accommodate placement of the 1500 a little further
away?


6 or 7 ft. would be ideal in my situation.


73,


Art KZ5D

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Re: [Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?

[j...@kk9a.com]

I did not suggest changing the breaker.  I wrote either use what he has at
reduced output or install at least one new dedicated circuit.

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.

On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 8:26 AM, Harlan Sherriff 
wrote:

> Michael,
> Do NOT replace the breaker with a larger current breaker UNLESS the wiring
> is rated for the extra current.
> 15A = 14 gage wire
> 20A = 12 gage wire
> 30A = 10 gage wire
>
> Harlan
> K4HES
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 14, 2018, at 7:14 AM, "j...@kk9a.com"  wrote:
> >
> > It should be fine to run the KPA500 at reduced power using your existing
> > 15 amp outlet, unless you have a lot of other stuff plugged in. You can
> > always add a 240v outlet later.  I ran a separate 20 amp 120v outlet
> along
> > with a new 240v outlet into the shack. Your 30 amp power supply is
> > adequate for the K3S and P3.
> >
> > GL
> > John KK9A
> >
> >
> > Michael Gillen KK6RWK wrote:
> >
> > Kind of a dumb question however here goes:
> >
> > I got my K3S a short while ago and now I want to add the KPA500 and
> KAT500
> > to it however it just now occurred to me that I should check how much
> > juice I need to power that thing!
> >
> > I’m currently using an Alinco DM-330MV which I believe puts out 30A
> > continuous however its probably plugged into one the house 15A lines.
> >
> > So my questions are:
> >
> > 1) Will 15A house line supply enough juice for the K3S, KPA500, KAT500,
> > and in the future a P3 Panadaper?
> >
> > 2) If not can I get away with replacing the breaker with a 20A breaker?
> 30A?
> >
> > 3) Will the Alinco be big enough or should I upgrade that as well?
> >
> >
> > Thanks guys,
> > Michael
> >
> > __
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>
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[Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?

[j...@kk9a.com]

It should be fine to run the KPA500 at reduced power using your existing
15 amp outlet, unless you have a lot of other stuff plugged in. You can
always add a 240v outlet later.  I ran a separate 20 amp 120v outlet along
with a new 240v outlet into the shack. Your 30 amp power supply is
adequate for the K3S and P3.

GL
John KK9A


Michael Gillen KK6RWK wrote:

Kind of a dumb question however here goes:

I got my K3S a short while ago and now I want to add the KPA500 and KAT500
to it however it just now occurred to me that I should check how much
juice I need to power that thing!

I’m currently using an Alinco DM-330MV which I believe puts out 30A
continuous however its probably plugged into one the house 15A lines.

So my questions are:

1) Will 15A house line supply enough juice for the K3S, KPA500, KAT500,
and in the future a P3 Panadaper?

2) If not can I get away with replacing the breaker with a 20A breaker? 30A?

3) Will the Alinco be big enough or should I upgrade that as well?


Thanks guys,
Michael

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Re: [Elecraft] Default K3 transmit delay may be too short for slow QRO amplifiers

[j...@kk9a.com]

I am sure that just adding a few ms will work with most amplifiers but my
question was what exactly happens to CW. Is it just the first dit that gets
clipped.  Does computer keying with Winkey still perform properly with
longer TX delays?

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.

On Fri, Jun 8, 2018 at 10:48 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> Also, a reminder: this is nothing new. We’re just clarifying a delay
> offset that has existed for a long time. There have been no recent firmware
> changes.
>
> It would be possible to modify the K3’s keying algorithm to allow for much
> longer delays (say, 0 to 200 ms). Of course this would significantly shift
> CW RF output in time relative to keying input.
>
> Fortunately, very few amplifiers require more that a few ms of extra
> delay.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> 
> http://www.elecraft.com
>
> > On Jun 8, 2018, at 7:33 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> >
> > The delay can be set from 8-20 ms at present. Given the small time
> offset, this is actually 5-17 ms (approx). Use small values if possible.
> >
> > With external keying, you can generally compensate by reducing the
> device’s weighting.
> >
> > Wayne
> >
> > 
> > http://www.elecraft.com
> >
> >> On Jun 8, 2018, at 5:02 AM, "j...@kk9a.com"  wrote:
> >>
> >> I agree that 5ms is too fast for many amplifiers. Is computer sent CW
> also
> >> spoiled when increasing the delay?  Does it only effect QSK or all
> >> transmissions?
> >>
> >> John KK9A
> >>
> >> Igor Sokolov ua9cdc wrote:
> >>
> >> Wayne it is a pity that TX delay setting affects CW timing. Changing TX
> >> delay from default even one or two steps makes CW much worth. Can you
> >> figure out a way to make CW timing independent from TX delay? With 5 ms
> >> TX delay working in many contests I already had to change a pair of
> >> relays in the amplifier. 10-12 ms would be fine for me. 20 ms will
> >> probably suit the majority of users. But 5 ms is way too fast and
> >> unfortunately cannot be altered without spoiling CW sending. I know that
> >> I could build external sequencer but this does not look neat enough
> >> especially for portable field operation. Every other radio I had allowed
> >> TX delay adjustment to at least 20 ms.
> >>
> >> 73, Igor UA9CDC
> >>
> >> __
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[Elecraft] Default K3 transmit delay may be too short for slow QRO amplifiers

[j...@kk9a.com]

I agree that 5ms is too fast for many amplifiers. Is computer sent CW also
spoiled when increasing the delay?  Does it only effect QSK or all CW
transmissions?

John KK9A

Igor Sokolov ua9cdc wrote:

Wayne it is a pity that TX delay setting affects CW timing. Changing TX
delay from default even one or two steps makes CW much worth. Can you
figure out a way to make CW timing independent from TX delay? With 5 ms
TX delay working in many contests I already had to change a pair of
relays in the amplifier. 10-12 ms would be fine for me. 20 ms will
probably suit the majority of users. But 5 ms is way too fast and
unfortunately cannot be altered without spoiling CW sending. I know that
I could build external sequencer but this does not look neat enough
especially for portable field operation. Every other radio I had allowed
TX delay adjustment to at least 20 ms.

73, Igor UA9CDC

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise Video posted

[j...@kk9a.com]

Nice video Don. Speed 4 and 5 might be like trying to operate with the XYL
vacuuming around you. I wonder what duty cycle and power level it takes
for these speeds to kick in. It was good to see a comparison with the tube
amps. My Alphas were hardly noticeable when running but remember they are
significantly larger and do not require a 3, 4 or 5 fan speed setting.

John KK9A


Don Butler n5lz wrote:

In response to N5ZC’s request  I just made this short video to provide a
listen to the KPA1500's fans ... at least as they sound in my shack. 
Follow this link to view: https://vimeo.com/273064144

In addition to the KPA1500 the video also includes footage of my Alpha
9500 and Icom PA1 … each running with their fans at maximum speed … to
provide a simple rather crude comparison.

What do I think?   I think that fan speed 1 and fan speed 2 on the KPA1500
are probably comparable to the fans that are installed on the other
amplifiers as far as sound and efficiency are concerned and likely provide
a similar degree of cooling at those speeds.   And, I think that fan
speeds 3, 4, and 5 (which are indeed noisy) provide the KPA1500 with
enhanced cooling capability that is simply not available on other
amplifiers.

Don, N5LZ

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Drive Power

[j...@kk9a.com]

My KPA500 also has slightly inconsistent output. If I recall output drops
a little after the first few seconds of key down. Perhaps it is normal for
solid state amps as I have never noticed this with a tube amp. This may be
more of a concern with a legal limit amp if you want to keep it as close
to 1500 watts without going over.

John KK9A

Bill Stravinsky k3wjv wrote:

 Yup, as the temp climbs the output drops some.  Even though I'm glad I
got the solid state amp I still prefer tubes, hi.  The drop is anywhere
between 100 to maybe 300 watts.I never really noted the exact numbers.
BillK3WJV
p.s. I'm thinking its a normal solid state thing.

On Wednesday, May 30, 2018, 4:23:47 PM EDT, K9MA  wrote:

 I'm using the K3 with the Elecraft interface cable.  I've noticed the
the CW drive power required by mine varies considerably, both with
temperature and SWR.  If I set the K3 output for a KPA1500 output of
1500 W output initially, the output will drop to perhaps 1100 W when the
temperature stabilizes at around 65 C.  (I've ruled out any change in
antenna impedance, etc.)  A similar change occurs if the SWR goes from
1:1 to 1.2:1 when changing frequency or switching antennas.  I haven't
changed the ALC from the default setting.  Has anyone else noticed this?

73,

Scott K9MA

-- 
Scott  K9MA

k9ma at sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 fan noise concern

[j...@kk9a.com]

If you like computer control of your station, than I agree that the remote
program is a great solution.  I still have stacks of rotator control boxes
and relay switches on my desk and I can make QSOs without a computer, which
is why I suggested something like this
https://www.arraysolutions.com/om-2500-rem for the Elecraft amp.

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.

On Wed, May 30, 2018 at 10:15 AM, N2TK, Tony  wrote:

> Hi John,
> For a long time I had the Acom 2000A sitting on a shelf in the basement
> right below my feet in the shack. I used their remote box which worked very
> well. I have a KPA500 on the same shelf using KPA500 Remote which also
> works
> very well for controlling the amp. Once the KPA1500 Remote is available I
> would think it would work as well as the KPA500 Remote program to control
> the amp. I can't think of a reason to have additional hardware in the
> shack.
> I am in the process of removing more of the manual controls to the
> basement.
> 73,
> N2TK, Tony
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of j...@kk9a.com
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2018 9:14 PM
> To: 'Elecraft Reflector' 
> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 fan noise concern
>
> I imagine that due to the KPA1500's size it requires a higher volume of air
> than a large amplifier would. Its small size and weight make it appealing.
> The Acom 2000 has a control box that is separate from the amp so you really
> never hear the amp run. I am wondering it something similar can be done
> with
> the Elecraft KPA1500, perhaps an option like the K-Pod, so that the noise
> source is further from the operating position?
>
> John KK9A
>
>
>
> Thanks for the offer, Clay. But we actually did extensive thermal analysis
> of both the heat sink and fans, tested many different fan types and
> configurations, and did comparative noise testing of the KPA1500 vs. a
> number of other amps.
>
> As you allude to, there's no magic bullet. Heat must be removed, with
> various physical and electrical constraints to be satisfied.
>
> We have some pretty amazing thermal imaging devices that we use to examine
> heat signatures of electrical components. These were used during R, which
> is how we determined that two LDMOS devices were far better than one for
> heat distribution. We also used it to evaluate the design of our very
> large/very thick copper heat spreader. On the production line, we review
> all
> modules for hot spots during burn-in and make sure the cooling is working
> perfectly (onset temperature, air distribution around modules, etc.).
>
> Of course supplemental cooling of various types has been used with
> amplifiers in the past. I believe we have a couple of customers and staff
> experimenting with this idea, and anything that emerges will be posted
> here.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
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[Elecraft] KX3 in International carry-on luggage?

[j...@kk9a.com]

There are airline regulations regarding batteries so you should check to
make sure that your battery sizes are acceptable.  Bringing a transceiver
though security is usually a piece of cake. I have TSA Precheck which I
think makes things easier in US airports but I rarely have had to take my
K3S out of my carry-on luggage anywhere.

John KK9A


Gerry Hull W1Ve wrote:

Waiting for my KX3 to arrive.  I will be doing some international travel in
the summer.  Just wondering if anyone has carried the KX3 in carry on
luggage or a backpack.  Do security officials get upset with the battery?

73, Gerry W1VE
-- 
Gerry Hull, W1VE  Hancock, NH USA
Member: ARRL, YCCC, YCCCN, CW Ops
gerry at w1ve.com ph: 1-617-CW-SPARK (find me)

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[Elecraft] New wierd K3s behavior

[j...@kk9a.com]

“I" before "E" except after "C" and when sounding like "A" as in neighbor
and weigh and on weekends and holidays and all throughout May, and YOU'LL
ALWAYS BE WRONG NO MATTER WHAT YOU SAY”

John KK9A


Jim Miller AB3CV wrote:

weird...not wierd...

not enuf coffee...

jim



On Tue, May 22, 2018 at 8:11 AM, Jim Miller  wrote:

> When I turn on my K3s (and let it finish booting) and try pressing TUNE
> (hold XMIT) I get a zero power indication rather than tune power if in DATA
> A mode.
>
> A quick trip to CW then hitting a few dits on the paddle produces the
> expected 100w barefoot power.
>
> Then returning to DATA A and TUNE and the expected tune power is emitted.
>
> No idea why this would occur and it is a new thing. I have recently
> updated to the latest beta firmware for the enhanced KPA1500 integration.
> Perhaps a bug was introduced there?
>
> Ideas?
>
> Jim ab3cv
>

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[Elecraft] Will the KPA 1500 operate RTTY in "run mode" for 48 hours?

[j...@kk9a.com]

Great question, I would also like to use one for this purpose. If you're
only using one radio it will get little rest. I am sure that it will
survive a RTTY contest however I would probably set the fan at a higher
continuous speed and live with the fan noise however I wonder how loud
this really is. The initial testers claimed that the amp was very quiet. I
also wonder if the KPA1500 crackles while cooling down like the KPA500.

John KK9A

Mack McCormick W4AX wrote:

I have a complete K line with the KPA 500 currently. I am considering
purchasing a KPA 1500. Will the KPA 1500 operate, *on all bands at legal
limit*, while operating as a "run" station in a RTTY contest? That would be
near continuous duty. How loud are the fans when operating in this mode?

Thank you in advance for any information.

Mack
W4AX


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[Elecraft] KPA500 installtion with ICOM 7300

[j...@kk9a.com]

I concur that the RF sense works very well, at least it does with an
external antenna switch and reasonably good antenna SWR.  I am not sure
what happens if you also use the KAT500 as an antenna switch or your
untuned SWR is very bad.  Does the amp fault during this first dit?

John KK9A


Jim Brown K9YC wrote:

FWIW, I've never used band data with my KPA500, only the AMP KEY cable.
The KPA500 (and KAT500) are VERY good (and fast) at detecting RF and
changing bands. All it takes is a dit or a tap on the mic.

73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] KPA500 installtion with ICOM 7300

[j...@kk9a.com]

I used a KPA500 with a Yaesu transceiver and it worked very well just
letting the amp's RF sensor switch bands. I did not use an ALC cable.

John KK9A


Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

 > The owners manual is of no help.

Have you actually read the KPA-500 Owner's Manual?
.

As an alternative, you can allow the KPA-500 to band switch based
on detected RF and use the "Basic Cabling" diagram on page 20.  In
that case you will want to use two RCA connections - one between
the "SEND" jack on the IC-7300 and PA Key on the KPA-500, the other
between ALC Out on the KPA-500 and ALC jack on the IC-7300.


Everything you need is in the KPA-500 Owner's Manual if you simply
study it.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

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[Elecraft] K3S/K3/KX3 EQ settings

[j...@kk9a.com]

I followed Jim's EQ recommendation which he as stated a number of times on
this list. For clarity I posted it here: 
http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2017-April/244127.html I believe
that this is an excellent recommendation. I received a number of
unsolicited "great audio" reports while operating as PJ4R in March WPX.

John KK9A



John Altman wa4aip wrote:

Interesting input ...

and, seems we have 3 different EQ settings from Jim Brown!

Question, were these the original setting suggestions from Jim or are these
the "final" settings after personal adjustments?

Thanks to the group...

John
WA4AIP


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[Elecraft] [KAT500] Remembered Antennas

[j...@kk9a.com]

You can easily assign antenna ports using the KAT500 utility and a 3.5mm
to USB cable.

John KK9A

Bret N4SRN wrote:

I’m using VE3NEA’s Faros NCDXF beacon software to monitor the 5 bands using
my K3S on bypass with a KAT500 on bypass, as my two antennas have rATUs at
the bases. When I set the KAT500 to ANT2 it keeps switching back to ANT1 so
I figure it must be remembering a prior band/ANT setting. How do I make it
use just ANT2 for all 5 bands?

Bret/N4SRN

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 SWR meter

[j...@kk9a.com]

Hopefully Elecraft can duplicate the apparent temperature related SWR
problem and resolve it.

The loud fan noise contradicts preliminary reviews. Perhaps the early
testers did not run the amp in a contest environment where it heated up.
There are over 125 KPA1500's that have been manufactured so they should be
getting used in all types of environments now. I hope to order one for my
station, eventually.

John KK9A


from: Don Butler n5lz at comcast.net
date: Sun May 6 18:41:31 EDT 2018

contest. which is the first contest I have operated with the KPA1500
 the heatsink temperature was down in the mid 40s C at the time  and
in my case it occurred on 160 meters only  SWR as per other meters as
well as the digital readout on the 1500 were reading 1.2:1 ... and did not
change even when the LED flashing occurred . but I was getting
intermittent flashing of all LEDs on the amp's SWR meter 

During the contest I was continuously running on CW with hourly QSO rates
running between the 70s and 110s  I opted to manually switch on the fan
to keep the temperature below 60 degs C . level 2 seemed to keep it
there most of the time  but I did move up to level 3 a few times  (and
BTW, at that speed the KPA1500 is clearly the noisiest amp I have ever owned
 but, arguably, it may very well be the "coolest" also . headphones
were absolutely necessary with that noisy fan . clearly much noisier
than the Alpha 9500 sitting right next door ... which I also used during the
same contest...

So Mike, you're not the only one experiencing this phenomenon whatever
it is..

Don, N5LZ   (KPA1500 #45)


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[Elecraft] KXPA100 SSB Distortion

[j...@kk9a.com]

Can you describe your antenna(s) and feedline?

John KK9A


Ray W2RS wrote:

My KXPA100 transmits distorted audio on SSB, but works normally on CW and
RTTY.  With 100 watts output, drain current is 11.7 A and supply voltage
is 13.1 V, down from 13.7 V on receive.  My power supply is a pre-MFJ
Astron RS-35A.


The KX3 with which I drive it operates normally on all bands and modes,
with good transmit audio.  Speech compression is off and mic gain is set
to 20.


Should I send the amp back to Elecraft for service, or is there another
problem?


73 Ray W2RS

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[Elecraft] UPS Practice? was:Re: KPA1500 Caution

[j...@kk9a.com]

Sign up for UPS My Choice
https://www.ups.com/mobile/deliveryplanner?loc=en_US and you will be aware
of every package coming to your residence. You can redirect packages if
they require a signature and you will not be home.

John KK9A


N4ZR wrote:

Yes, I know. The problem is that they did not warn me when tracking the
package that I would have to be there, and despite claiming they would
do so, their web site also gave me no inkling of when during the day I
could expect delivery. For a company that designs its deliveryroutes to
minimize left turns, you'd think this would be child's play.

73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.


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[Elecraft] K 3 Sub receive no audio

[j...@kk9a.com]

Is the SUB using the same antenna as the main.

John KK9a


JAY ki4txp wrote:

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I have now discovered that I am RX fine
on the Main. On the SUB all i get is a swish noise no audio.
Thanks again in advance

73
Jay KI4TXP

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[Elecraft] Astron VS-35M Powwer Supply V-

[j...@kk9a.com]

Do Astron linear power supplies have protection against excessive voltage
should the regulator fail?

John KK9A



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[Elecraft] Astron VS-35M Powwer Supply V-

[j...@kk9a.com]

That is some lossy wire in your example:)  The reason for the lighter
gauge splice suggestion was to provide a way to connect heavy wire to the
Elecraft K3 and K3S. I can directly connect 1 awg wire to my Astron power
supply but technically only 10 awg to the small PowerPole connector on the
transceiver.

John KK9A


James Wilson w4rks73 wrote:


Running a heavy power supply line with a lighter gauge wire at
the radio end OR a lighter wire at the power supply end, the
overall net supply resistance (and voltage drop) will be the same.
For example, 100 Ohms in series with 1 Ohm equals 101 Ohms net total
resistance.

Likewise 1 Ohm in series with 100 Ohms is still 101 Ohms.

It doesn't matter if you take the voltage drop at the input or
at the output end of the power run if the total load is at the
end of the run.

I checked with Dr. Ohm to verify this.  :-)

Jim - W4RKS

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[Elecraft] Astron VS-35M Powwer Supply V-

[j...@kk9a.com]

How much power cable twist is needed to be effective for reducing RFI/EMI?

John KK9A

Jim Brown K9YC wrote:

I find #10 to be the largest cable that I can reasonably
fit into the 45A insert, so I run twisted pairs of that.


73, Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] Astron VS-35M Powwer Supply V-

[j...@kk9a.com]

I have never seen the Powerpole adapter but that seems like and elegant
solution. You could even use 6awg wire with that connector if you had a
longer power supply/battery cable.

John KK9A


Phil Kane k2asp wrote:

On 4/11/2018 9:14 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> John and all,
>
> You can splice a short (3 to 4 inches) length of #12 wire to the #8 or
> #10 wire and it will not have negligible voltage drop due to the short
> length.

Or use an APP 75A fitting with 8 AWG wire and the APP 75A-30A reducing
adapter (with or without the above-recommended pigtail) to the 30A-size
fitting on the transceiver (I do that for my K2/100).  The battery and
power-supply leads to my distribution system, however, are 4 AWG with
crimped lugs and stud mounts.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

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Re: [Elecraft] Astron VS-35M Powwer Supply V-

[j...@kk9a.com]

This is an option, I just prefer not to splice cables more than necessary.

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.

On Wed, Apr 11, 2018 at 12:14 PM, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com>
wrote:

> John and all,
>
> You can splice a short (3 to 4 inches) length of #12 wire to the #8 or #10
> wire and it will not have negligible voltage drop due to the short length.
> Make certain you have a good tight connection at the splice point.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/11/2018 12:02 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
>
>> My 70amp Astron has 1/4" lugs and they seem to make a secure connection.
>> Do to my longer lead length (power supply on floor) I used 8ga wire. This
>> was difficult to stuff into the K3S sized PowerPole. Even with the shorter
>> leads that I use on contest expeditions along with a switching power
>> supply I found that I need 10ga wire to keep the voltage above 13.5 on TX.
>> I think that larger PowerPoles or studs would have been nicer for those
>> interested in keeping the K3S voltage in the desirable range. Double as
>> Joe suggested would also work if you wanted to run two sets of wires.
>>
>
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[Elecraft] Astron VS-35M Powwer Supply V-

[j...@kk9a.com]

My 70amp Astron has 1/4" lugs and they seem to make a secure connection.
Do to my longer lead length (power supply on floor) I used 8ga wire. This
was difficult to stuff into the K3S sized PowerPole. Even with the shorter
leads that I use on contest expeditions along with a switching power
supply I found that I need 10ga wire to keep the voltage above 13.5 on TX.
I think that larger PowerPoles or studs would have been nicer for those
interested in keeping the K3S voltage in the desirable range. Double as
Joe suggested would also work if you wanted to run two sets of wires.

John KK9A



Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


Ohms Law!  If the transceiver power supply cable is short and heavy
guage with multiple contact pins (or #10 - 1/4" bolted terminals)
and #10 or 14" bolted terminals on the power supply, the impedance
of the desired path in the power supply cable will be much, much
less than the path through control cables (#16-#22 wires with
single small pins) and any accessories.

Elecraft/Astron come close with their power supply connection.  I
would appreciate it if the transceiver had bolted connections or
at least double up the power poles and move from #12 to #10 cable.
Doubling up on the power poles would allow using two (#12) cables
further reducing the impedance (and voltage drop) of the desired
path.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

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[Elecraft] K3 Apparent PA failure ?

[j...@kk9a.com]

This should not matter pressing the XMIT button.

John

John KK9A

Dave Sublette k4to.dave at gmail.com

Are you in CW mode? If so, is VOX enabled?

K4TO

>>
>> On 04/09/2018 08:31 AM, Martin Sole wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> My K3 died today, somehow. The radio works fine on receive and appears
>>> to transmit just there is no power indication on my external meter or on
>>> the front panel when pressing TUNE. There is ALC indication but no power
>>> out indication.The only thing I did different was to switch off the
supply
>>> before the radio, something I normally never do. Having noted others
having
>>> issues with that I reloaded the firmware. Still no output. Starting to
>>> think that somehow the PA is fried or possibly the driver as there is
>>> nothing from the 10 watt PA either. Tried turning the power down and
>>> putting the KPA3 into bypass. Still no power output. Not sure what
else to
>>> try before I tear into it. Was going great, worked 3B7A on 3 bands
today no
>>> problem.
>>>
>>> Suggestions appreciated.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Martin, HS0ZED
>>>

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[Elecraft] 15% discount KE7X book Code is FWD15

[j...@kk9a.com]

I looked for the K3S book a while ago on Lulu during one of these sales
and for some reason only the PDF was available. I wanted a physical book.
It is probably still that way.

John KK9A


hawley, charles j jr wrote:


I was looking for the latest K3S book and don't see it...specifically
titled as "K3S and P3" as is advertised on the Elecraft site under part
number E740243. When I click on that part number, there is no Cady book
titled as such.
I have also looked on the Lulu.com site and don't see that specific title.
I do see "The Elecraft K3 and P3" 3rd Edition.
I have "The Elecraft K3" 2nd Edition and was thinking of an updated book
for the K3S including revision firmware updates.
Is the "The Elecraft K3 and P3" 3rd Edition such a book?

Thank you and 73,

Chuck KE9UW

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[Elecraft] K3S Enable Preamp 2 Without Preamp 1

[j...@kk9a.com]

I have never used my K3S higher than 10m. I imagine that 6m (or 2m like
the original poster is using) is a different animal than HF and the higher
gain preamp would be useful.

John KK9A



Jim Brown K9YC wrote:

> I have operated from several countries using my K3S and I am never so
> fortunate to have a noise floor low enough use preamp 2. Most of the time
> preamp 1 is also off.

I've had the opposite experience. MDS of the original K3 was woefully
poor above 15M, even with the preamp switched in. As luck would have it,
I have a very nice ARR GAsFET 6M preamp on the shelf that I'd used in
Chicago that I inserted at the RX antenna patch point; I found that it
improved the MDS all the way down to 12M. I would have missed a LOT of
QSOs without that preamp. Of course, like everyone else, sometimes my
noise level is lower than at other times, and a solar system 500 ft from
my main antenna raises it by 10 dB on 10 and 6 when the sun is hitting it.

When the K3S was introduced, I quickly replaced the Synth boards and the
Transverter board to get that improved preamp, simplifying my RX antenna
switching. I do find, though, that the GAsFET preamp has a slightly
lower NF, so I continue to use it during the 6M season.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio line in/out cables

[j...@kk9a.com]

That is what I thought. I am using an interface however some of these posts
lead me to believe that it was not necessary.

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.

On Thu, Apr 5, 2018 at 10:04 AM, Ed W0YK <e...@w0yk.com> wrote:

> No.  A FSK/PTT keying interface is needed between PC and K3 ACC connector.
>
> 73,
> Ed W0YK
>
>  Original message ----
> From: j...@kk9a.com
> Date: 4/5/18 4:31 AM (GMT-08:00)
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft]  K3 audio line in/out cables
>
> Can you do FSK with only a USB connection between your computer and K3?
>
> John KK9A
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2018 12:20:02 -0400
> > From: "N2TK, Tony"
>
>
> >
> > I have upgraded both of my K3's to make them as close to a K3S as best I
> > can. Presently cleaning up the rats nest of cables. I am using USB.
> >
> > I no longer use the Line IN and OUT jacks.  Presently only using FSK. I
> plan
> > on adding FT8 shortly. With the on board CODECs is there any reason I
> still
> > need the LINE cables? Want to check to makes sure I am not missing
> > something.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > N2TK, Tony
>
>
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>
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[Elecraft] K3 audio line in/out cables

[j...@kk9a.com]

Can you do FSK with only a USB connection between your computer and K3?

John KK9A




> Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2018 12:20:02 -0400
> From: "N2TK, Tony"


>
> I have upgraded both of my K3's to make them as close to a K3S as best I
> can. Presently cleaning up the rats nest of cables. I am using USB.
>
> I no longer use the Line IN and OUT jacks.  Presently only using FSK. I
plan
> on adding FT8 shortly. With the on board CODECs is there any reason I still
> need the LINE cables? Want to check to makes sure I am not missing
> something.
>
> 73,
>
> N2TK, Tony


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[Elecraft] Dish/Direct TV RFI?

[j...@kk9a.com]

I have Dish and there is no interference to it when transmitting on the HF
bands.  During heavy rain storms there is occasional signal loss and I
suppose if you live in areas with a lot of snow you could have similar
issues.

John KK9A

Reed w4jz wrote:
Wed Mar 14 08:56:34 EDT 2018

Has anyone had trouble with RFI, receive or transmit, with Dish or
Direct TV.  I have cable through Comcast & tired of their rate increases
so thought I give satellite a try since looks like more bang for the buck.

Thanks,

Reed  W4JZ

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[Elecraft] New Sub RX

[j...@kk9a.com]

Wow interesting post Bill! Outside of contests I have not chased DX in
decades and I was not aware how high tech it has become.

John KK9A

W4ZV wrote:

Get CW Skimmer and enable its "599" function.  You don't even need to listen
to the pileup since you can watch for the last "599" in the spectrum display
and move your TX there.  Here's a macro I wrote in 2011 with details:

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Pileup-Buster-Macro-td6579405.html

73,  Bill  W4ZV


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[Elecraft] Fault on KPA500 after 300w

[j...@kk9a.com]

A dummy load may verify that the KPA/KAT are working properly. I am
guessing that something is arcing in your antenna system. Perhaps water
ingress. Have you run high power into it with a different amp?

John KK9A



On March 12 Alan Lambert wrote:

I recently acquired a KP500/KAT500 for use with my Kx3/KXPa100. I know
the person I bought it from well and I am 99.% sure it is not an
issue with the amp or tuner.

 I was making some notes (a chart) for input to output power levels,
mostly just to ‘get to know’ the amp a little better.  At the time of
these issues, I was on 80m SSB and the Kat500 was showing 1:1 / 1.2:1.

The output watts  I have listed below are not ‘actuals’ I’m just
recalling them from memory so may be off a few watts.

I set the Kx3 to 8w and called “test test test 1 2 3  kn4bbc” I showed
~80w out with a 1:1 to 1.2:1 SWR.. GREAT!

Moved up to 9w and got 100w out… same SWR – more Great!

10w I got 175w same SWR – sill looking good!

11w I got  250w same SWR – Awesome!

Now this is where the problem comes in.

I set to 12w… As I starting calling my “test test test 1 2 3…”  At
first things looked great..I was getting 300w same SWR  but then
suddenly I get high SWR followed by  “High Refl” on the KPA5, fault
light comes on and I get warning tones.

So I tuned the KAT500 again and tried the whole thing again with the
same results.

Gear wise:

KX3/Kxpa100 with ATU disabled > KPA500/KAT500.

Ant1 on Kat500  >  1ft LMR400 jumper >  1:1 ATU Current Balun  > 225
feet of 450 ladder line > a ½ wave 80m center fed, inverted V  dipole.
Center point is ~90 feet off ground.

The Balun is a Balun Designs Model 1161

The shack is on 2nd floor in middle of the house and has no exterior walls.

The ladder line starts in the shack, there is about 2 feet  of in the
shack then enters my attic space thru and opening in a sheetrock wall.
Inside the attic space there is a long slow, wide loop about 50 feet
long. I was careful to keep it away from metals and it does not cross
itself however some of it  is lying on top of plywood. From there its
exits the house in the ridge cap at the tip top of the roof at about
(40 feet off ground)  The ladder line then hangs from a rope that runs
from the eve to the tree line about 175 feet away which is where the
center point of the dipole is.  In short 175 feet outside 50 feet
inside.


Ideas of what my problem might be?

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[Elecraft] Planning the next filters

[j...@kk9a.com]

400Hz is my favorite CW/RTTY filter. I also have a 250Hz but if you read
the archives you will see that it is not much narrower than the 400. If
you are concerned about the cost this is worth looking at. I have the
2.1KHz and 1.8KHz SSB filters.  Of course the 2.1 sounds better, I switch
in the 1.8 when QRM worsens. I think having both is useful.

John KK9A


WS1L wrote:

Right now I have the stock SSB and a 400 Hz filter in both main and sub
rcvrs.  I would like to add some a few at a time.  My first priority is to
add a couple to the main receiver, since it is the biggest chore to get
to.

I plan on a 250 Hz CW filter, but am going back and forth between the 2.1
and 1.8 kHz filters.  I know that narrowing the DSP to 1.8 gives a really
difficult to understand voice signal, while the 2.1 allows in more adjacent
signals.  However, the roofing filters may not behave in the same manner.
For example, the 1.8 could be set to turn on at 2.1 to take advantage of
skirt shape.

I primarily DX, and operate in some contests as well.  I know SSB contests
really need a narrow SSB filter.

Any suggestions on the matter from those who have gone this route before?

73 de Chuck, WS1L


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[Elecraft] A momentary BAT LOW warning

[j...@kk9a.com]

I am glad that you found the problem relatively easily Barry.

I am wondering who makes quality lugs and crimping tools?  I am not
impressed with the ones that I buy at the big box stores.

John KK9A

Barry w2up wrote:

John,

I wasn't using the Astron-supplied lug.  I crimped another lug onto the
cable.  Somehow, the wire within the crimp worked itself loose, after 10+
years.

Barry W2UP


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[Elecraft] shack project

[j...@kk9a.com]

Perhaps send the broken 756 to Icom America for repair.

But I agree with K4TO that Elecraft customer service and support is second
to none. Their email response time is quick and I feel confident that
parts for my K3S's will be available for a long time.

John KK9A


From: Charles Carlon

Very good point. I am not sure what my options would be if the 756 broke

Charlie




> On Mar 3, 2018, at 08:27, Dave Sublette  wrote:
>
> No doubt there are good radios available.  But just remember.  If it
> breaks, someone has to fix it.  Elecraft is the ONLY manufacturer I know of
> that will send me an email from support with hints and helpful suggestions
> BEFORE I contact them.  I Went first to TenTec many years ago and then to
> Elecraft when I couldn't get any help for my other three brands of radios.
>
> 73,
>
> Dave, K4TO

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[Elecraft] KPA1500

[j...@kk9a.com]

It was a valid question Bill, there was no reason for criticism.  Ham
radio is an aging group with many being 70+ years old. Some ops of any age
may have physical limitations. One of the attractions to the Elecraft line
is its small size and light weight. Good luck "creating the funds", I have
not figured out a way to do this yet:) I am sure that you will be able to
separate the package when it finally arrives and set the KPA1500 up in
your station.

John KK9A


From: Bill Johnson k9yeq
Date: Tue Feb 27 2018

Eric,  Thank you for the response.  I was looking at the issue of going an
additional direction when it arrives.  I understand the packaging and was
more interested in if it could be shipped in two cartons and you have
clearly answered that.  Others have "delicately" pointed out all the
possibilities including a reference to me being a man.  That one really
was silly.   I can manage.  I only asked for a simple answer and you gave
it straightforward.  I will probably order within the next week or so as I
am creating the funds as I type.

72 & 73,
Bill
K9YEQ, FT’er for K2, KX1, KX3, KXPA100,  KAT500, W2, etc.

-Original Message-
From: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft 
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2018 7:53 PM
To: Bill Johnson 
Cc: Wayne Burdick ; Elecraft ; Elecraft_K3 at yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500

Hi Bill,

We ship the RF deck and Power Supply in two individual inner boxes that
are then packed with special foam corner inserts into a larger outside
shipping box. The foam inserts, air gap and the outer box provide the
extra protection needed for shipping via UPS etc. We lose that protection
if we ship it using just the two inner boxes on their own.

The easiest thing I would suggest is to simply open the top of the outer
box upon receipt and then easily remove the lighter two inner boxes
separately to move it. They lift out very easily.

Regards,

Eric
elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] RG-8X

[j...@kk9a.com]

The original post by W4KBX  was this:  "I’m seeking recommendations for
RG-8X coax with the lowest loss. The total run will be about 100 feet."

You cannot defy physics and have low loss with 1/4" coax, no matter who
the manufacture is, but RG8X was his criteria.

John KK9A


Jim Brown K9YC wrote:

On 2/26/2018 11:02 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> I did inquire as to the application.  To feed a 6M yagi being a 6OWL6W. 
My thinking, I would cringe at putting up a nice yagi such as this and
not use the feedline with the lowest loss possible.  Most likely Andrew
LDF4-50A hardline.

Me too!  The 350 ft run from my shack to the 3-el SteppIR is 7/8-in
hardline, transitioning to a short length of flexible coax for the
rotator loop. Scrounged the hard line used for roughly $1/ft.  Loss is
about 1 dB on 6M.

73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] RG-8X

[j...@kk9a.com]

I believe all RG8X has a .242 diameter PVC jacket and about the same loss.
Certainly some brands are better made, I use only Belden 9258.

Perhaps the question should be what is the best coax with a diameter less
than ??? or weight less then ???, for ??? MHz, good for ??? watts for a
portable/permanent installation? There might be some interesting options.


John KK9A

Mon Feb 26 12:07:16 EST 2018

Hi Richard,


Please provide a little more information so that your question can
be answered more accurately.


At what frequencies will you be using your coax?


Will your coax be buried or laid on the ground, or will it not be
in contact with the ground at all?



Many coaxial cables have a vinyl jacket which is very susceptible
to moisture penetration if buried or laid on moist ground.


Are rodents (squirrels, mice, etc) a problem in your area?


Vinyl jacketed coax is very susceptible to rodent damage which
will quickly increase your coax loss.


73
Frank
W3LPL


From: Richard 
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2018 8:35 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] RG-8X

I’m seeking recommendations for RG-8X coax with the lowest loss. The total
run will be about 100 feet.

Cheers!

Richard Kunc — W4KBX

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[Elecraft] KPA1500

[j...@kk9a.com]

I have moved many Alpha amps without removing the transformer. I believe
you only have to remove it for shipping. They also have screws to secure
the fan that should be installed.  I just sold an OM Power 2000+ and
shipped it with the transformer. That was a heavy box to carry to FedEx! 
I have no issue with Elecraft shipping the lightweight power supply and
amp together however for those that cannot lift it perhaps the Elecraft
shipping depart can accommodate them with two shipments for an extra
charge.

John KK9A

Rick Tavan N6XI wrote:

I believe Alpha warns not even to try to move the amp with its transformer
installed. It is connectorized so you can remove the transformer in a few
minutes and then transport it and the chassis separately. Otherwise, you
risk bending the chassis under the weight of the transformer, assuming you
can move it at all! KPA1500 is a true breakthrough in weight for a
full-power amp!

/Rick N6XI

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[Elecraft] OT Power Strip suggestion.

[j...@kk9a.com]

Surgex power strips are significantly more expensive than Tripp Lite. Are
they better?

John KK9A

Jim Brown - K9YC wrote:

I'm guessing that I bought the first of these units 4-5 years ago, and
it's been protecting a big "old iron" Dell tower ever since. Run time
still seems quite good. I bought the second one a few years ago to keep
low power 120V shack gear running through the occasional power drops we
experience up here in the mountains. Both units are plugged into a
SurgeX box.

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[Elecraft] Power Locked/Set

[j...@kk9a.com]

Brilliant idea Mike. When a single knob has multiple functions it is way
too easy to accidentally adjust mic gain.

John KK9A


From: Mike Wetzel mjwetzel at comcast.net
Date: Wed Feb 21 22:00:12 EST 2018

I knew about the power set nor/per band didn't know about the 'tap 1' to
lock mic/cmp/pwr.  Now that I know that I sure wish a 'tap 2' would only
lock mic/cmp and not pwr.  Any chance?   Would others find that useful?
After setting the mic/cmp I never want to change them but I do need to
change the pwr and of course when changing pwr I end up changing the cmp.



Mike W9RE

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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Shipping Status

[j...@kk9a.com]

There appears to be a big demand an Elecraft legal limit amp, great job
adding this to the product line. If a person ordered a KPA1500 today when
would it likely ship?

John KK9A

FromL Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ,
Date: Tue Feb 20 14:00:44 EST 2018

Hi Carl - I apologize for the confusion on this.  I'm not sure where you
got the
5-7 days estimate, which is incorrect. Its much longer than that due to
our huge
backlog of orders.

Our current status is on the shipping Status Page. See:
http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_shipping_status.htm

73,
Eric
/elecraft.com/

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[Elecraft] MICROHAM USB III INTERFACE WITH K3 UTILITY DOES NOT WORK

[j...@kk9a.com]

I agree that the MicroHAM interface works perfectly with the Elecraft
utility for everything except firmware updates. Using it with firmware
updates is a disaster, don't ask me how I know this:)

John KK9A


From: Joe Subich, W4TV
Date: Fri Feb 16 20:40:25 EST 2018


I have not attempted to run the P3 utility through microHAM USB
Device Router but have no need to do so.  Whenever I update the
firmware in either of my K3(s) or the P3, I switch to a direct
serial connection.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

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[Elecraft] MICROHAM USB III INTERFACE WITH K3 UTILITY DOES NOT WORK

[j...@kk9a.com]

What is your callsign? I do not have the USB interface however I do have a
lot of other MicroHAM devices.  Since I do not see the word Router in your
post I have to ask this again: Are you following the MicroHAM setup
instructions?

John KK9A

gbconsultin...@gmail.com Wrote"

I am still trying to get a K3 talking.  I have a connection through a
Microham USB III Interface box that connects the K3 RS232 port to my PC
running Win 7 64 Pro. The path is from the K3 to the Microham III USB
interface, then there is a straight USB connection from the Microham to the
PC.  I have downloaded the K3 Utility and tried to see if it will establish
connection with the PC but it will not.  COM port 1 is used.  The K3 setting
is currently at 38400 baud  but I also tried setting the K3 baud rate at
4800 and doing a power on/off  but with the same results.   I see the K3
utility screen on the PC step through the various baud rates but it will not
sync up to the K3. The PC recognizes the Microham USB interface when looking
at the Win 7 Device Manager but it indicates there is no device driver. I
don¹t always trust what the PC says though.  Can someone point me to a
device driver I can download and install. My K3 FW is Rev 5.38.

73¹s
Greg


Greg Best P.E.
16100 Outlook Avenue
Stilwell, KS 66085
816-792-2913

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[Elecraft] FIRST TIME HOOKUP OF N1MM+ TO K3 VIS MICROHAM USB INTERFACE III

[j...@kk9a.com]

The router software should show if the K3 is connected. Make sure that
this works before opening the logging software. Like others have said, use
38400 baud. Carefully follow the MicroHAM instructions.

John KK9A

N6XI wrote:

You got good advice on baud rate. Also, it's wise always to confirm proper
operation with K3 Utility first. If it doesn't connect, chances are N1MM
won't, either. Utility marches through speeds until it finds one that
works. MM requires a specific speed setting.

73,

/Rick N6XI

Greg Best gbconsulting54 at gmail.com
Thu Feb 15 20:33:43 EST 2018

I am trying to get N1MM+ to talk to my K3 but will not do it.

I am setup for 4800 B, Data 8 bits, Parity N, stop bits 1.  DTR and DTS have
been tried with both Always ON and Always OFF but neither one works.

I have tried the Radio reset command from N1MM+ with no luck.

Can anyone help?
73¹s
Greg

16100 Outlook Avenue
Stilwell, KS 66085
816-792-2913


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[Elecraft] KPA1500 duty cycle

[j...@kk9a.com]

RTTY contesting has a much higher duty cycle, especially when using a
single radio and no one is answering your CQs.

John KK9A


On Feb 15 03:51:39 G4DYA wrote:

The FT8 parameters were tweaked slightly during the beta phase prior to
the release of WSJT-X 1.8.0, and the TX time was reduced to 12.64 sec,
so the duty cycle is now about 42%.

73,
Richard G4DYA

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[Elecraft] KPA500 Info Disappeared From Website

[j...@kk9a.com]

The photo also vanished from the products page
http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_products_page.htm

I guess it was replaced by the KPA1500 :)

John KK9A


From: Mark W7MLG
Date: Tue Feb 13 09:00:53 EST

The KPA500 links seem to have been broken on the Elecraft Website:

Not Found

The requested URL /KPA500/KPA500.htm was not found on this server.


73,


Mark

W7MLG

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Re: [Elecraft] Y-Adapter for K3S ACC - KPAK3AUX - KPA-1500

[j...@kk9a.com]

Don't use VGA products.  Elecraft sells a Y adapter that will work
perfectly and N6TV sells a Y-Box to connect up to four devices to the ACC.

John KK9A
.

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.

On Mon, Feb 12, 2018 at 2:37 PM, Don Butler <n...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Tnx John …. I guess a better option might be to just buy a VGA Y-Adapter
> rather than make one up and have to do all that soldering …
>
>
>
> Don, N5LZ
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *j...@kk9a.com
> *Sent: *Monday, February 12, 2018 12:16 PM
> *To: *elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> *Subject: *[Elecraft] Y-Adapter for K3S ACC - KPAK3AUX - KPA-1500
>
>
>
> Yes a Y will work.  I have had a MicroHAM keyer, a Top Ten Band Decoder
>
> and a KPA500 all connected to the same ACC jack.
>
>
>
> John KK9A
>
>
>
>
>
> Don Butler n5lz at comcast.net
>
> Mon Feb 12 12:31:13 EST 2018
>
>
>
> I've been studying the manual while waiting for my new KPA-1500 to ship ...
>
> I see that the KPAK3AUX cable must run from AUX on the amp to ACC on the
>
> K3S.   In my case I already have a microHAM MK2R+ cable connected to the
> K3S
>
> ACC  (providing band data for switching bandpass filters).
>
> I'm thinking that I can build a Y-Adapter cable assembly with DB-15s  to
> run
>
> from the K3S ACC and split (1) to KPAK3AUX and on to the KPA-1500 AUX . and
>
> (2) to the MK2R+ ACC cable.
>
>
>
> Will that work?
>
>
>
> Will conflicts with KPA-1500 or MK2R+ be created?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Don, N5LZ
>
>
>
> __
>
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>
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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> Message delivered to n...@comcast.net
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] Y-Adapter for K3S ACC - KPAK3AUX - KPA-1500

[j...@kk9a.com]

Yes a Y will work.  I have had a MicroHAM keyer, a Top Ten Band Decoder
and a KPA500 all connected to the same ACC jack.

John KK9A


Don Butler n5lz at comcast.net
Mon Feb 12 12:31:13 EST 2018

I've been studying the manual while waiting for my new KPA-1500 to ship ...
I see that the KPAK3AUX cable must run from AUX on the amp to ACC on the
K3S.   In my case I already have a microHAM MK2R+ cable connected to the K3S
ACC  (providing band data for switching bandpass filters).
I'm thinking that I can build a Y-Adapter cable assembly with DB-15s  to run
from the K3S ACC and split (1) to KPAK3AUX and on to the KPA-1500 AUX . and
(2) to the MK2R+ ACC cable.

Will that work?

Will conflicts with KPA-1500 or MK2R+ be created?

Thanks,

Don, N5LZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Easier way to adjust KPA500 fan speed

[j...@kk9a.com]

I keep mine always set on the highest speed that is not loud. I cannot
remember the number but it the fan is barely noticeable and the next speed
up seems quite loud. For casual S operating the loud fan never comes on
for me.

John KK9A

From: Brian K3KO
Date: Fri Feb 9 11:57:29 EST 2018

With the lack of sunspots, one has to scrounge for QSO's. For a non big
gun station, that means a lot of S and pouncing on DX cluster spots.
Lots of hopping between modes.

I use earphones always but still find it necessary to tinker with fan
speed. Keeping ambient KPA500 fan noise down and minimizing annoying fan
speed changes during QSO's, requires different initial fan speed levels
for different modes.

To adjust fan speed from the KPA500 front panel:
1) Press Menu
2) Scroll down 5 times to FAN CTL
3) Press Edit
4) Scroll up or down to value
5) Back out (2 presses)
6) Press TEMP, PWR or whatever parameter you choose to display while
operating.

This got to be a pain.  W6FB at Elecraft suggested using the ^FC command
to make the changes over the PC connection.  You could write your own
program or use the firmware program to do this. I used the firmware
program and programmed macros for speeds 0 - 4.  The firmware program is
minimized most of the time since it takes up significant screen space.
It does require a dedicated USB or COM port.

It is crude but does help.  Any better ideas?  Maybe the aux key could
be pressed into service to scroll fan speed. What would really be nice
is to have it automatic with the KPA500 knowing the mode your operating
and what fan speed you like for that mode.  I suppose some logging
program could do the same.

Another solution for some-- buy a KPA1500 which is supposed to be
whisper quiet.

73 de Brian/K3KO

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[Elecraft] Wrong PIM nuts in KPA500 kit

[j...@kk9a.com]

A 4-40 Pem nut typically requires a Ø.166 hole and a 6-32 requires a Ø.188
hole. So if a 4-40 nut was installed in a Ø.188 hole it will easily fall
out. You should not re-tap the threads or use a smaller screw. You can
install PEM fasteners with a hammer and anvil but it is best to use a
machine designed for this.

John KK9A

Michael Blake  wrote:

I received a call back from Elecraft Technical Support yesterday.  It was
quite difficult to come together on exactly which screws and embedded PEM
nuts I was talking about in the bottom cover.  Once we were in agreement
on the screw positions I was talking about the technician looked at a
bottom cover but was unable to determine the exact thread sizes as he was
unwilling to remove the green protective tape which covered the holes.  He
was not really equipped to handle this mechanical sheet metal problem but
was going to refer it to another group which could more easily address the
problem.  I initially got the impression that he thought that I was
incorrect about the threaded nut (PEM nuts)  error but I think we got past
that.

For clarification, if you have a new kit and would check, these are the
steps where the problems arise:

These are the steps in the Kit Assembly Instructions

Page 15, figure 14 show six (6) 1/4" 6-32 BLACK FLAT HEAD SCREWS. The
right hand two (2) 6-32 screw locations were equipped with 4-40 threaded
nut inserts (PEM nuts) rather than the correct 6-32 threaded inserts (PEM
nuts).  The two (2) 4-40 BLACK FLAT HEAD SCREW shown in this figure were
correctly equipped with 4-40 threaded inserts (PEM nuts).

The same problem exists on the right hand side cover.

Page 24, figure 32 instructs you to install four (4) 6-32 BLACK FLAT HEAD
SCREWS.  In this case the two rear 6-32 screw locations were equipped with
the correct 6-32 threaded inserts (PEM  nuts) but the front two locations
were equipped with 4-40 threaded inserts (PEM nuts).

At this point I am waiting to see what they find when they check their
current supply of bottom covers and what their recommendation will be to
correct the problem.

I do have a photo but I do not believe I can attach it to the reflector.

Michael Blake
k9jri at mac.com

On Jan 27, 2018, at 11:06 AM, Michael Blake  wrote:

I am waiting on a response from Elecraft TS on this one but I thought I
would ask if anyone else has encountered this problem on the KPA500 kit.

On the bottom edge of both the right and left side panels there are places
for three 6-32 flat head screws. The countersunk holes are obviously
larger than those for the other 4-40 flat head screws.

In my kit one of the three PIM nuts, for each side, was the correct 6-32
thread PIM nut and the remaining two had 4-40 PIM nuts installed in the
bottom cover. When I had temporarily installed the left hand side panel in
the middle of construction I failed to notice this and just installed
screws that fit (one 6-32 and two 4-40) but during final assembly it
became obvious that the 6-32 screws would not fit in 4 of the 6 positions.

Thinking that they just had paint in them I tried tp run a 6-32 tap
through one and it naturally seized up and twisted the PIM nut out. Not
being the brightest bulb in the shop I tried that a second time and
twisted out the second PIM nut.

Fortunately these were both on the right hand side where there was room to
slip two 6-32 hex nuts in place and I just used two 4-40 flat head screws
on the left side.

Hopefully Elecraft will be able to send me the correct PIM nuts to replace
the four incorrect ones. That was my request in the email to Doug at tech
support.

I certainly would not want to replace the bottom coverl as that would
require a complete disassembly of the amplifier.

Has anyone else encountered this?

Michael Blake
k9jri at mac.com

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[Elecraft] Wrong PIM nuts in KPA500 kit

[j...@kk9a.com]

You can install PEM nuts with a hammer and anvil but it's best to do it
with a PEM insertion machine or a fixture in a press. 4-40 nuts typically
require a .166 diameter hole and 6-32 require a .188 hole.

John KK9A


Michael Blake K9JRI wrote:

I am waiting on a response from Elecraft TS on this one but I thought I
would ask if anyone else has encountered this problem on the KPA500 kit.

On the bottom edge of both the right and left side panels there are places
for three 6-32 flat head screws.  The countersunk holes are obviously
larger than those for the other 4-40 flat head screws.

In my kit one of the three PIM nuts, for each side, was the correct 6-32
thread PIM nut and the remaining two had 4-40 PIM nuts installed in the
bottom cover.  When I had temporarily installed the left hand side panel
in the middle of construction I failed to notice this and just installed
screws that fit (one 6-32 and two 4-40) but during final assembly it
became obvious that the 6-32 screws would not fit in 4 of the 6 positions.

Thinking that they just had paint in them I tried tp run a 6-32 tap
through one and it naturally seized up and twisted the PIM nut out.  Not
being the brightest bulb in the shop I tried that a second time and
twisted out the second PIM nut.

Fortunately these were both on the right hand side where there was room to
slip two 6-32 hex nuts in place and I just used two 4-40 flat head screws
on the left side.

Hopefully Elecraft will be able to send me the correct PIM nuts to replace
the four incorrect ones.  That was my request in the email to Doug at tech
support.

I certainly would not want to replace the bottom coverl as that would
require a complete disassembly of the amplifier.

Has anyone else encountered this?

Michael Blake

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[Elecraft] Fw: KPA500 Power out query.

[j...@kk9a.com]

Is there a fix for the KPA500 pinging? I do not use my amp often but I
have seen this occur on occasion. I am hoping that the KPA1500 does not do
this.

John KK9A

AJ8MH wrote:
Sun Jan 28 12:30:32 EST 2018

Also, heat causes some stress on the chassis and you'll here pings as it
flexes with temp.  The first time I heard that, it scared the heck out
of me.  I believe there is a fix for that, too.

Joe
( www.aj8mh.com )


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[Elecraft] Y-BOX v1.3 Closeout Pricing; New Y-BOX v2.1 Now In Stock

[j...@kk9a.com]

I have original versions of the Y-Box. Although it worked, I never liked
using multiple Y's on the ACC jack and this box eliminated the clutter.
Both of mine work perfectly. Also Bob is very responsive and a great guy
do business with.

I assume that the amplifier port has certain terminals not connected, the
Elecraft cable is missing these pins. Are there devices that need these
pins?  Is it possible that someone would need four unmodified ACC jacks?

John KK9A


Thu Jan 25 23:57:55 EST 2018  N6TV wrote:

To review, the Y-BOX provides a reliable and convenient way to connect the
K3 ACC port to multiple devices, including the KAT500, KPA500, KPA1500,
band decoders, DigiKeyers, RemoteRig boxes, etc.  The Y-BOX replaces any
15-pin Y-Cables you may already be using.

While supplies last (I only have a few left), the original "Version 1.3"
Y-BOX will be sold for only $129 ea. (originally $139).  Order this version
if you don't have a SteppIR controller, or don't have a requirement to
power a KPA500 or KPA1500 on or off remotely.  Version 1.3 requires an
Elecraft KPAK3AUX cable (not supplied) for connecting the Y-BOX to an
Elecraft amplifier or tuner.

For the eham.net reviews, please see
https://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/13296

The new "Version 2.1" Y-BOX dedicates one connector for a KAT500, KPA500,
or KPA1500, with no KPAK3AUX cable required.  Simply connect an economical
15-pin M/F cable (but not a VGA cable) between the Y-BOX v2.1 "AMP AUX"
port and your Elecraft device.  The Y-BOX will connect only the required
lines, emulating the wiring of the KPAK3AUX cable.

Version 2.1 also adds two new internal headers. The first is optionally
used to open the keying line to the amplifier, providing convenient RCA
connectors for SteppIR owners with a SteppIR Tuning Relay (a device which
opens the keying line whenever the antenna is tuning).

The second header optionally connects the DIGOUT1 line of the K3 to the
Elecraft amplifier's PWR ON pin, so you can remotely power the amp. ON or
OFF with a simple K3 macro, or your K3 logging software.  This technique is
documented in the K3 Remote Owner's Manual
,
on page 21.  With the Y-BOX version 2.1 and a 15-pin M/F DE-15 cable, no K3
to KPA500 cable modification is required; the required connection is made
inside the Y-BOX.

Version 2.1 is now available to order, priced at $139 ea.  Here's a direct
link to the order form:

https://goo.gl/forms/Guu6OC6NinTlasY93

For more details and photos, please see https://bit.ly/Y-BOX (freshly
updated to show what's new in version 2.1).

Thanks again for all your support and encouragement.

73,
Bob, N6TV

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[Elecraft] K3 Power Drop During Operation

[j...@kk9a.com]

This first thing I would do is check the voltage at the radio. There is a
voltmeter in my K3S so there probably is one in the K3.  You could have a
power supply issue or just low voltage in Curacao. I try to maintain 13.5V
on TX.

John KK9A


K8ND wrote:
Thu Jan 25 06:54:48 EST 2018

I was running some stations on 160-meters this morning, and noted that the
power output had dropped from the amp.

Further investigation found that the maximum power out from the K3/100 was
reduced from ~100W to about 54W, with no error messages displayed on the
K3. Advancing the 'PWR' control beyond 54 W made no difference. I stopped
operating, and found that the power slowly restored, first to a maximum of
84W, and then back to the normal 100W maximum.

I assume that this is an issue with temperature? The ambient temperature
was cool (A/C running in shack). I have not noted this problem before.

The fan was set to 'Config > KPA3 > PA nor'.  recommended setting for hard
contest use?

73,  Jeff  PJ2ND / K8ND

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[Elecraft] Array Solutions Lightning Arrestor

[j...@kk9a.com]

Until K9YC's post I was not aware of the Array Solutions lightning
arrestor. They appear be a nice product. How do GDT's fail - open or
closed? If open, how do you know that they need replacement?

John KK9A

K9YC wrote:

I strongly agree with Bob's advice, EXCEPT that I've gotten really tired
of replacing Polyphasers on my high wire dipoles. I've recently switched
to the arrestors that Array Solutions sells, both because I like the
circuit better and because the gas discharge tubes are user replaceable.

The Polyphasers are feed-through types mounted to the entry panel. The
Array Solutions are mounted in a big Hoffman box, for which W6GJB built
some custom mounting brackets. It's mounted to the wall next to the
plate with the Polyphasers, with two 2-in PVC conduit stubs going
through the wall and holes drilled at the bottom of the enclosure for
coax entry.

73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 notes

[j...@kk9a.com]

These are excellent reviews, I especially liked W0YK's comment about
having to consult the wattmeter to confirm that it was running. This would
have been the perfect amp for Ed to bring to Sabana Basora, Aruba for the
2018 RTTY Roundup. Are any stations outside California testing the
KPA-1500?

John KK9A


Wayne Burdick n6kr wrote:

A few KPA1500 owners have now posted reviews here:

http://www.eham.net/reviews/review/150669

We’re pleased to hear such enthusiastic reports about the amp after all
the hard work by both our staff and field testers. (One thing that’s
clear: our decision to use a separate power supply is working well for
users. They’ve commented on the very compact size of the RF deck, how it
fits conveniently at their operating position.)

If you find yourself in the vicinity of Elecraft headquarters and have a
few minutes to spare, please drop by for a hands-on demo of the amp or any
of our other gear.

73,
Wayne
N6KR



http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Line Out Monitor Adjustment

[j...@kk9a.com]

Thank you iain!  This is exactly what I was looking for.

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.

On Thu, Jan 18, 2018 at 11:24 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML <a...@dseven.org>
wrote:

> On Thu, Jan 18, 2018 at 7:09 PM,  <j...@kk9a.com> wrote:
> > I just upgraded my K3S's to the latest firmware. It is so easy, I should
> do
> > it more often. I have read that there is now a way to adjust the line out
> > monitor level however I cannot find documentation showing how this is
> done.
> > The default level is actually fine however I am curious where the Line
> Out
> > settings are.
>
> In the firmware release notes[1] under "K3 MCU 5.58 / DSP 2.88 / FPF
> 1.26, 3-16-2017":
>
> "* TX LINE OUT (MONITOR) LEVEL NOW ADJUSTABLE: In CONFIG:LIN OUT menu
> entry, tap '2'  (REV switch) to set the "T=" level (TX monitor). Tap
> '2' again to return to the RX LINE OUT setting."
>
> 73,
>
> ~iain / N6ML
>
> [1] ftp://ftp.elecraft.com/K3/firmware/hfwnotes.rtf
>
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[Elecraft] K3S Microphone Cable

[j...@kk9a.com]

I saw the Heil connectors and Heil wire when I first started my search. I
was not interest in the wire. I did have an interest in the Foster
connectors but could not find them in stock anywhere.

73,
John KK9A


Bill Wrote:

Heil has the best Foster connector. Sold in pairs. Not sure if price but
very reasonable.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill

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[Elecraft] K3S Microphone Cable

[j...@kk9a.com]

Thanks to everyone for the quick responses and product suggestions. When
bought a MicroHAM Micro2R years ago to replace a Top Ten DXDoubler I used
the old Top Ten cables. For years I had rotator controller noised getting
into my headphones and I recently noticed that the headphone cables were
not shielded. I stared over making new cables using better headphone wires
and the rotator ramp noise is now completely gone. My next step is to add
mic cables to this device and I wanted to do it properly. K9YC's detailed
explanation was exactly what I was looking for.  I was not sure use if I
should I should buy one or two conductors and if two what to do with the
shield. This morning I purchased a 2 wire Belden mic cable and I will
probably buy the Foster connector that W3FPR listed. Also thanks to K4TAX
and KY5G for their excellent suggestions.

73,
John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.


>
>  Original message 
> From: j...@kk9a.com
> Date: 1/15/18 19:46 (GMT-06:00)
> To: 'Elecraft Reflector' <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3S Microphone Cable
>
> I am remaking my SO2R control box cables and I need to purchase quality
> microphone cable however I am not sure what to get. I am using an electret
> microphone. I assumed that I would need a cable with a single conductor and
> a shield but most mic cables that I see have two conductors. Belden has a
> single conductor
> http://www.awcwire.com/mfg/belden/product/belden-high-
> impedance-microphone-c
> able  but it's a high impendence cable and the Belden multi conductor
> cables
> are all low impendence. Does that matter? What gauge wire should I use for
> a
> 5ft cable?  I would appreciate any suggested cable models or feedback. I am
> also having a difficult time locating brand name quality 8-pin Foster mic
> plugs (I prefer using the front jacks).
>
> 73,
>
> John KK9A
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Review on eHam

[j...@kk9a.com]

Awesome - I want one!

John KK9A

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.

On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 10:14 PM, Ed W0YK <e...@w0yk.com> wrote:

> Not an issue with the KPA1500.  That's my point.
>
> 73,
> Ed W0YK
>
>  Original message ----
> From: j...@kk9a.com
> Date: 1/15/18 4:34 PM (GMT-08:00)
> To: 'Elecraft Reflector' <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft]  KPA1500 Review on eHam
>
> How about in a RTTY contest where most SS amps need super high fan speeds
> to
> keep cool?
>
>
> John
>
> Ed Muns wrote:
> This is one of the downsides of the KPA1500.  Unlike other amps, it feels
> like QRP when it's putting out 1.5 KW.
>
> Ed W0YK
>
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>
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[Elecraft] Long wire antennas MORE

[j...@kk9a.com]

Plus the simple dipole in your example has a lot less RF coming back into
the shack.

John KK9A


David Gilbert wrote:

There is only a fixed amount of total energy contained in all the lobes
of an antenna.  You almost definitely did get lots of lobes ... but you
also got lots of nulls that exactly offset all those lobes.  You just
never heard the the hams that were in those nulls and they never heard
you.   Whatever you gain in one or more directions is sacrificed in one
one or more other directions.  This is basic physics.

More lobes is not necessarily better.  In fact, taken to the extreme it
is self defeating because a very large number of lobes (assuming they
were somehow all of equal strength as you stated) begins to approximate
a unidirectional antenna with no azimuth gain in any direction.

Just for grins I modeled your 700 foot antenna in EZNEC+ and on 20m it
gave a maximum gain of about 9 dbi in a fairly narrow lobe at 16 degree
elevation in both directions along the axis of the wire.  It also gave a
total of 36 other sharply narrow lobes arrayed symmetrically in all
other directions, each with a gain of about 6 dbi.  Between each lobe
was a deep null of around minus 10 dbi. This was all at the same 16
degree elevation angle ... there were literally too many lobes to count
on the 3D pattern, with lots of lobes and nulls at every azimuth and
elevation angle.

A simple dipole at the same 40 foot height would have given similar gain
with a much broader lobe (both azimuth and elevation) in the two main
directions, but of course without the multiple smaller side lobes.
Three poles and two perpendicular dipoles would have given better
overall single band results ... the only advantage of the long wire
being that it gives a similar pattern along with similarly ugly match on
multiple bands.

Dave   AB7E

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[Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key worth?

[j...@kk9a.com]

$1?

John KK9A



Scott Manthe wrote:

Does anyone know what an Elecraft labeled Hex Key is worth? I've got one
in great shape that I'm considering selling.

Thanks,

Scott N9AA


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[Elecraft] K-Pod and/or K3 programmig?

[j...@kk9a.com]

I set both of my K-PODs to switch to specific bands. I am not at home now
or I would copy the programs however it was easy to find in the manual. If
you cannot find it I can send it to you tonight. I used this feature a lot
over the weekend, it is much nicer than pressing the up/down toggle on the
K3S. I just wish there was more room on the K-POD to label the buttons. I
also really enjoyed having the RIT controls close to the keyboard.

73,
John KK9A - W4AAA in RTTY RU


Eric W3DQ wrote:

I'm interest in macros or ?? (alternative key assignments) to enable
simple tasks I've been accustomed to with other radios.

The ones that immediately come to mind are
- jump up or down X Khz (2 buttons)
- increase/decrease (or reset to the default) step of the tuning encoder
- switch directly to a specific band instead of having to scroll through
them to get where you want to go (6 buttons).

There are others that I'm sure I'll think of as time moves on.

Thanks & 73,
Eric W3DQ
- Sent from my mobile phone

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[Elecraft] OT: Pigremote availability

[j...@kk9a.com]

I understand you being cautious however I am curious, is there RF inside
the shack (assuming quality coax and common mode chokes)?

John KK9A


KQ8M wrote:
Jan 4 10:34:09

I see the Pigremote is out of stock. Is there any idea when they may become
available again? I will be using it with my K3.



I just had a heart transplant along with a new pacemaker and the docs want
me to stay away from the transmitter till everything shakes out so I am
hoping to control my rig from another room. Itching to get back on the air.
I have been in the hospital since Nov 20th.



Thank you for any help.



73 de Tim, KQ8M

Kq8m at kq8m.com

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[Elecraft] K-POD LED 4

[j...@kk9a.com]

I purchased another K-POD and on New Years day I connected it to my second
K3S. I programmed it identically to my first one. Both appear to work the
same except the new one has the LED 4 on and on the original the LED is
off. None of my programs were written to control LED 4. To make them the
same, in the Elecraft utility, I tried KPLED4ON; and KPLED4OFF; with each
unit and it had no effect so I still have one K-POD with the LED 4 on and
one with LED 4 off. I tried typing this command in the test area and also
I created a temporary macro button and neither had any effect. How can I
turn this light on or off?

John KK9A

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[Elecraft] KPA1500

[j...@kk9a.com]

Interesting saying Twan, it is very true.  All of a sudden no one has any
other amplifier in their shack?

Has the KPA1500 been approved by the FCC yet?

John KK9A

pa0kv said:

Everyone tensed and impatient as a child waiting for a new puppy. :-D
There's a Dutch saying: "Bezit van de zaak is het eind van 't vermaak"
Translated: "Possession of the goods ends the excitement"
Happy Holidays.
73s, Twan - PAØKV

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