Re: [EVDL] j1772 cable

[EVDL Administrator via EV]

On 29 Aug 2021 at 14:43, nathan christiansn via EV wrote:

> The photo was deleted from your post - would you mind sending it again?
> 
> Nathan

Sending it again will produce the same results.

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Re: [EVDL] j1772 cable

[nathan christiansn via EV]

Ken,

The photo was deleted from your post - would you mind sending it again?

Nathan

On Sun, Aug 29, 2021 at 2:23 PM  wrote:

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>
>1. J1772 outlets and cable (Ken Olum)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2021 11:15:23 -0400
> From: Ken Olum 
> To: ev@lists.evdl.org
> Subject: [EVDL] J1772 outlets and cable
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> When I got my Juicebox charger some years ago, there was apparently a
> manufacturing flaw in the control pilot wire in the charging cable.  The
> wire was broken with no damage to the cover.  After a while it failed.
> I spliced the wire, but to do it I had to remove the cover from the
> cable.  I tried to replace it with some heat shrink, but this never
> worked properly.  So when you move the cable around by the handle, it
> stresses the wires, which then broke again.
>
> I got tired of repairing it and bought a new cable.  Would anyone like
> the old one?  I also have most of the parts of a J1772 outlet.
> What's missing is the outer shell that holds the sockets and one of the
> little springs that holds the socket closed.  See attached photo.  If
> you'd like any of this stuff, make me an offer.  At least enough to pay
> for shipping and it's yours.
>
> Incidentally there was a comedy of errors when I tried to buy a
> replacement cable from Enel X.  I bought a clearly described 25' cable
> from their web site.  They sent me a 20' cable.  I didn't notice, so I
> wasted an hour connecting it to the charger.  Then it didn't reach from
> the charger to my car.  So I complained to Enel X, and in a couple of
> weeks they sent me another 20' cable.  Fortunately I wasn't fooled again.
> I didn't waste my time but called them up right away.  Finally they got
> somebody to go to their warehouse and find a cable that was actually 25'
> long, not merely one that was in a box labeled "25' cables".
>
> Ken
>
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[EVDL] J1772 outlets and cable

[Ken Olum via EV]

When I got my Juicebox charger some years ago, there was apparently a
manufacturing flaw in the control pilot wire in the charging cable.  The
wire was broken with no damage to the cover.  After a while it failed.
I spliced the wire, but to do it I had to remove the cover from the
cable.  I tried to replace it with some heat shrink, but this never
worked properly.  So when you move the cable around by the handle, it
stresses the wires, which then broke again.

I got tired of repairing it and bought a new cable.  Would anyone like
the old one?  I also have most of the parts of a J1772 outlet.
What's missing is the outer shell that holds the sockets and one of the
little springs that holds the socket closed.  See attached photo.  If
you'd like any of this stuff, make me an offer.  At least enough to pay
for shipping and it's yours.

Incidentally there was a comedy of errors when I tried to buy a
replacement cable from Enel X.  I bought a clearly described 25' cable
from their web site.  They sent me a 20' cable.  I didn't notice, so I
wasted an hour connecting it to the charger.  Then it didn't reach from
the charger to my car.  So I complained to Enel X, and in a couple of
weeks they sent me another 20' cable.  Fortunately I wasn't fooled again.
I didn't waste my time but called them up right away.  Finally they got
somebody to go to their warehouse and find a cable that was actually 25'
long, not merely one that was in a box labeled "25' cables".

Ken

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Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV

[George Tyler via EV]

I have converted one, the older wide body leaf charging cable has a 200V
60hz transformer. Here, the frequency is 50hz so already 20% higher flux
density from that. They burn out on 240Vac 50Hz dure to transformer
saturation. I took the transformer out, could have got it rewound for the
required voltage and frequency but as I design switching electronics went
with that. I used a plug in 12V supply board, changed a resistor in the
voltage sense cct to make it give 15V. Also changed the plug to the locally
used 15A spar pool plug, a (10k I think) resistor in place of the thermistor
in the plug as I broke the one in the plug. Can anyone point me to a source
of the original matching Japanese socket? I would like to get that instead,
better quality than what we use here.(NZ). The psu PCB fitted in place of
the old transformer and makes it 80-265V compatible.


-Original Message-
From: EV  On Behalf Of Lee Hart via EV
Sent: 29 March, 2021 6:33 AM
To: mark hanson via EV 
Cc: Lee Hart 
Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV

mark hanson via EV wrote:
> Hi Lee etc,
> 
> I also have a 2013 Leaf.  Did you make an adapter to go from the 120V 
> plug to the 14/50 240V plug on the Leaf's portable EVSE?  I know my 
> Tesla portable is rated for 32A at 240V max (just plugged in/works 
> great) but I didn't know the Leaf was rated for 240V (15A probably).

I understand that it can be converted to 240vac, but I haven't tried it
myself. The way we drive, 120v charging has been completely adequate.



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Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV

[(-Phil-) via EV]

The G2 units are switch mode, but it has a primary filter electrolytic only
rated for 200V.  When you connect it to 240v, that capacitor sees about
320v, so generally after a short while it explodes and destroys the power
supply.

Also, if you just replace the capacitor, it will be fine, and will operate
OK on 240V, but only at 12A.  I developed all-new firmware to replace the
stock firmware that checks to see what voltage is coming in and allows you
to program different amperages for L1/L2.  Sadly, reprogramming firmware
requires a special adapter, so even if I gave it away, it wouldn't be of
much use.

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 11:43 AM Robert Bruninga via EV 
wrote:

> Easy way to tell (maybe) is to open it up and see if it has a
> conventional small 60 Hz transformer to power its internal 12 V
> electronics.
> If so, 240 VAC will likely overvoltage those low voltage circuits
> (operating at 12 V).
>
> On the other hand, if it does not have a small 12 v transformer, then it is
> using a switching supply and will likely be OK.
> But if they did it that way, then I would have expected them to put 120/240
> V on the name plate.   Everything else in the J1772 spec is CURRENT related
> and the mains voltage does not matter == Bob
>
> On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 1:32 PM Lee Hart via EV  wrote:
>
> > mark hanson via EV wrote:
> > > Hi Lee etc,
> > >
> > > I also have a 2013 Leaf.  Did you make an adapter to go from the 120V
> > plug
> > > to the 14/50 240V plug on the Leaf's portable EVSE?  I know my Tesla
> > > portable is rated for 32A at 240V max (just plugged in/works great)
> but I
> > > didn't know the Leaf was rated for 240V (15A probably).
> >
> > I understand that it can be converted to 240vac, but I haven't tried it
> > myself. The way we drive, 120v charging has been completely adequate.
> >
> > But I should give it a try. My garage is already set up for 240v
> > charging, and I have two 120v EVSE cords; I could convert one to 240v
> > just to see how it goes. :-)
> >
> > Lee Hart
> >
> > --
> > All children are born engineers. Watch them at play. They're not
> > just playing; they're experimenting, building and learning. That's
> > engineering! Then we get them in school and squash it out of them.
> > (Geoffrey Orsak, Southern Methodist University dean of engineering)
> > --
> > Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
> >
> > --
> > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> > https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> >
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV

[Robert Bruninga via EV]

Easy way to tell (maybe) is to open it up and see if it has a
conventional small 60 Hz transformer to power its internal 12 V electronics.
If so, 240 VAC will likely overvoltage those low voltage circuits
(operating at 12 V).

On the other hand, if it does not have a small 12 v transformer, then it is
using a switching supply and will likely be OK.
But if they did it that way, then I would have expected them to put 120/240
V on the name plate.   Everything else in the J1772 spec is CURRENT related
and the mains voltage does not matter == Bob

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 1:32 PM Lee Hart via EV  wrote:

> mark hanson via EV wrote:
> > Hi Lee etc,
> >
> > I also have a 2013 Leaf.  Did you make an adapter to go from the 120V
> plug
> > to the 14/50 240V plug on the Leaf's portable EVSE?  I know my Tesla
> > portable is rated for 32A at 240V max (just plugged in/works great) but I
> > didn't know the Leaf was rated for 240V (15A probably).
>
> I understand that it can be converted to 240vac, but I haven't tried it
> myself. The way we drive, 120v charging has been completely adequate.
>
> But I should give it a try. My garage is already set up for 240v
> charging, and I have two 120v EVSE cords; I could convert one to 240v
> just to see how it goes. :-)
>
> Lee Hart
>
> --
> All children are born engineers. Watch them at play. They're not
> just playing; they're experimenting, building and learning. That's
> engineering! Then we get them in school and squash it out of them.
> (Geoffrey Orsak, Southern Methodist University dean of engineering)
> --
> Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV

[Lee Hart via EV]

mark hanson via EV wrote:

Hi Lee etc,

I also have a 2013 Leaf.  Did you make an adapter to go from the 120V plug
to the 14/50 240V plug on the Leaf's portable EVSE?  I know my Tesla
portable is rated for 32A at 240V max (just plugged in/works great) but I
didn't know the Leaf was rated for 240V (15A probably).


I understand that it can be converted to 240vac, but I haven't tried it 
myself. The way we drive, 120v charging has been completely adequate.


But I should give it a try. My garage is already set up for 240v 
charging, and I have two 120v EVSE cords; I could convert one to 240v 
just to see how it goes. :-)


Lee Hart

--
All children are born engineers. Watch them at play. They're not
just playing; they're experimenting, building and learning. That's
engineering! Then we get them in school and squash it out of them.
(Geoffrey Orsak, Southern Methodist University dean of engineering)
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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[EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Lee etc,

 

I also have a 2013 Leaf.  Did you make an adapter to go from the 120V plug
to the 14/50 240V plug on the Leaf's portable EVSE?  I know my Tesla
portable is rated for 32A at 240V max (just plugged in/works great) but I
didn't know the Leaf was rated for 240V (15A probably).

 

Our REEVA club VP had *two* Tesla Wall Mount EVSE's die in the last few
years (running at 48A).  Maybe the portable EVSE's operating at lower
current are more conducive to longevity J

 

Best Regards, Mark

 

Message: 2

Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2021 15:36:07 -0500

From: Lee Hart 

To: "(-Phil-) via EV" 

Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV

  charging

Message-ID: <0654a589-c564-67ac-06ea-9771b0a53...@earthlink.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

 

(-Phil-) via EV wrote:

> IMO, you can now buy decent heavy-duty well-constructed J1772 EVSEs 

> for rather low cost, and if you own a Tesla, their wall-connector EVSE 

> is a good bargain for what you get.  If you just dropped many tens of 

> kilobucks on a new EV, do yourself a favor and get a decent EVSE.  

> Save the included portable unit for emergencies/travel.  The portable 

> units are much less reliable, so if you get a wall-mounted one, you 

> then have a backup should it fail.

 

That may be true in general, though my own luck has been the opposite. 

My wall-mount EVSE failed 6 months after I got it, but I'm still using the
portable EVSE that came with our 2013 Nissan Leaf every day without
problems.

 

In my 40+ years of EV driving, I've had my share of NEMA-15 (120v 15a)
connectors fail; but have never had a NEMA 14-50 failure. I think part of
the reason are cheap 120v outlets with push-in wire connections, and that I
don't use NEMA 14-50's at even half their rated amps.

 

Lee

 

--

All children are born engineers. Watch them at play. They're not just
playing; they're experimenting, building and learning. That's engineering!
Then we get them in school and squash it out of them.

(Geoffrey Orsak, Southern Methodist University dean of engineering)

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:  <http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0> http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
<https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddablePage/show/a88920376f864ecabaed843dd89
75b8d/signature> Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV charging

[(-Phil-) via EV]

It's true, one of the better portable EVSEs ever made was the Nissan Gen 2
unit made by Panasonic Kitchen appliances division:


As many of you know, I used to have a small part-time business converting
these to L1/L2 capability.  They will easily handle 20A continuous (G2 not
G3) and can be modified for wide input voltage easily.  I even personally
ran them at 24A with no issues.  (though we never sold that high of
amperage capability)

Note we replaced the input connection with a high-quality welded-terminal
L6-30.  The newer NEMA "L" series twist locks are much more robust than the
older flat blade style.

On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 1:44 PM jim--- via EV  wrote:

> I like your quote today!  Very good - and so true!
>
> 73
> -
> Jim Walls - K6CCC
> j...@k6ccc.org
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Lee Hart's quote for today:
> --
> All children are born engineers. Watch them at play. They're not
> just playing; they're experimenting, building and learning. That's
> engineering! Then we get them in school and squash it out of them.
> (Geoffrey Orsak, Southern Methodist University dean of engineering)
>
>
>
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV charging

[jim--- via EV]

I like your quote today!  Very good - and so true!

73
-
Jim Walls - K6CCC
j...@k6ccc.org


-Original Message-
From: Lee Hart's quote for today:
-- 
All children are born engineers. Watch them at play. They're not
just playing; they're experimenting, building and learning. That's
engineering! Then we get them in school and squash it out of them.
(Geoffrey Orsak, Southern Methodist University dean of engineering)



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Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV charging

[Lee Hart via EV]

(-Phil-) via EV wrote:

IMO, you can now buy decent heavy-duty well-constructed J1772 EVSEs for
rather low cost, and if you own a Tesla, their wall-connector EVSE is a
good bargain for what you get.  If you just dropped many tens of kilobucks
on a new EV, do yourself a favor and get a decent EVSE.  Save the included
portable unit for emergencies/travel.  The portable units are much less
reliable, so if you get a wall-mounted one, you then have a backup should
it fail.


That may be true in general, though my own luck has been the opposite. 
My wall-mount EVSE failed 6 months after I got it, but I'm still using 
the portable EVSE that came with our 2013 Nissan Leaf every day without 
problems.


In my 40+ years of EV driving, I've had my share of NEMA-15 (120v 15a) 
connectors fail; but have never had a NEMA 14-50 failure. I think part 
of the reason are cheap 120v outlets with push-in wire connections, and 
that I don't use NEMA 14-50's at even half their rated amps.


Lee

--
All children are born engineers. Watch them at play. They're not
just playing; they're experimenting, building and learning. That's
engineering! Then we get them in school and squash it out of them.
(Geoffrey Orsak, Southern Methodist University dean of engineering)
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV charging

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Phil etc
I’ve got a couple hard wired EVSEs, a GE with kWh and amps display added and an 
OpenEvse.com in the garage with KWh and amps display since we have 3 EVs, a 
Leaf, Bolt and now a Tesla, no fossil fools.  Adding a 3rd weatherproof 14/50 
mobile home unit I got from Lowes at lunch seems like a simple addition if 
everyone’s plugged in at the same time.  Dielectric grease on the blades helps 
long term reliability on connectors used outdoors, should be better than the 
250 200% load cycles UL tests to (assuming I don’t park the portable EVSE there 
until trips like others I know do).  I typically charge once a week with the 
high range so even if cycled that’s 5 years of operation worst case.  
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 26, 2021, at 4:05 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


IMO, you can now buy decent heavy-duty well-constructed J1772 EVSEs for rather 
low cost, and if you own a Tesla, their wall-connector EVSE is a good bargain 
for what you get.  If you just dropped many tens of kilobucks on a new EV, do 
yourself a favor and get a decent EVSE.  Save the included portable unit for 
emergencies/travel.  The portable units are much less reliable, so if you get a 
wall-mounted one, you then have a backup should it fail.

A proper hard-wired installation is more reliable and less prone to failure, 
simply because there are less connection points, especially those of the 100 
year old NEMA connector designs still in common use.

An EV charging load is challenging, which is why the NEC (National Electrical 
Code) implemented the 125% rule to oversize things to provide additional 
headroom and protection from overheating.  Even with this, I can't tell you how 
many times I've seen NEMA 15-40 outlets being used for EV charging get 
overheated and damaged because of corrosion, worn contacts, or most commonly; a 
loose wire termination.  It's even worse on 120v Level 1, with many people 
using the included portable EVSE old worn-out garage outlets, or worse; and 
undersized cheap extension code.   Do yourself, your family, and your insurance 
adjuster a favor; spend the $500 or so on a decent permanently wired EVSE.

On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 12:01 PM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
> Hi folks
> We were arguing about insertion cycles of various connectors at lunch 
> (something engineers do) so I asked the great god google:
> Since the Tesla Y came with a portable 32A 240Vac charge controller (ordered 
> the nema 14/50 plug), could just use it as others do for charging.  Looking 
> at Wikipedia UL498 insertion cycles for Nema flat blade connectors , they 
> show 250 cycles at 200% rated current.  The J1772 shows 10K cycles but turns 
> off so is disconnected no load.  I don’t see the 14/50 no load insertion 
> number, apparently UL 498 doesn’t test for that.  Do to the reduced insertion 
> rating of the Nema flat blade (in this case) 14/50 connectors, probably best 
> to put the portable EVSE under an enclosure to protect from the weather and 
> leave it plugged in.  My P3 Killowatt meter shows 2 watts of ghost load so 
> negligible.  
> Stay connected,
> Mark
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV charging

[(-Phil-) via EV]

IMO, you can now buy decent heavy-duty well-constructed J1772 EVSEs for
rather low cost, and if you own a Tesla, their wall-connector EVSE is a
good bargain for what you get.  If you just dropped many tens of kilobucks
on a new EV, do yourself a favor and get a decent EVSE.  Save the included
portable unit for emergencies/travel.  The portable units are much less
reliable, so if you get a wall-mounted one, you then have a backup should
it fail.

A proper hard-wired installation is more reliable and less prone to
failure, simply because there are less connection points, especially those
of the 100 year old NEMA connector designs still in common use.

An EV charging load is challenging, which is why the NEC (National
Electrical Code) implemented the 125% rule to oversize things to provide
additional headroom and protection from overheating.  Even with this, I
can't tell you how many times I've seen NEMA 15-40 outlets being used for
EV charging get overheated and damaged because of corrosion, worn contacts,
or most commonly; a loose wire termination.  It's even worse on 120v Level
1, with many people using the included portable EVSE old worn-out garage
outlets, or worse; and undersized cheap extension code.   Do yourself, your
family, and your insurance adjuster a favor; spend the $500 or so on a
decent permanently wired EVSE.

On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 12:01 PM Mark Hanson via EV 
wrote:

> Hi folks
> We were arguing about insertion cycles of various connectors at lunch
> (something engineers do) so I asked the great god google:
> Since the Tesla Y came with a portable 32A 240Vac charge controller
> (ordered the nema 14/50 plug), could just use it as others do for
> charging.  Looking at Wikipedia UL498 insertion cycles for Nema flat blade
> connectors , they show 250 cycles at 200% rated current.  The J1772 shows
> 10K cycles but turns off so is disconnected no load.  I don’t see the 14/50
> no load insertion number, apparently UL 498 doesn’t test for that.  Do to
> the reduced insertion rating of the Nema flat blade (in this case) 14/50
> connectors, probably best to put the portable EVSE under an enclosure to
> protect from the weather and leave it plugged in.  My P3 Killowatt meter
> shows 2 watts of ghost load so negligible.
> Stay connected,
> Mark
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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[EVDL] J1772 vs Nema flat blade insertion cycles for EV charging

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
We were arguing about insertion cycles of various connectors at lunch 
(something engineers do) so I asked the great god google:
Since the Tesla Y came with a portable 32A 240Vac charge controller (ordered 
the nema 14/50 plug), could just use it as others do for charging.  Looking at 
Wikipedia UL498 insertion cycles for Nema flat blade connectors , they show 250 
cycles at 200% rated current.  The J1772 shows 10K cycles but turns off so is 
disconnected no load.  I don’t see the 14/50 no load insertion number, 
apparently UL 498 doesn’t test for that.  Do to the reduced insertion rating of 
the Nema flat blade (in this case) 14/50 connectors, probably best to put the 
portable EVSE under an enclosure to protect from the weather and leave it 
plugged in.  My P3 Killowatt meter shows 2 watts of ghost load so negligible.  
Stay connected,
Mark

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 (Type 1) Plug/Socket Mating Issues

[evln via EV]

Also see:

[ref:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Duosida-Charge-handle-frustration-tp4696976.html
Duosida Charge handle frustration
]


http://www.evbitz.uk/Type_1_Plug.html
 1 of several evbitz pages that mentions Duosida

https://www.google.com/search?q="evbitz.uk"+Duosida
 more evbitz pages mentioning Duosida

https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1=en=search=translate.google.com=ru=nmt4=http://forum.leaf-club.org/viewtopic.php%3Ft%3D380%26start%3D20=ALkJrhiWHl3iCTFrv4SS5RnTVf3LzCTFjg#p3071
 a Leaf Club Ukraine page translated from Russian




For EVLN EV-newswire posts view:
 http://www.evdl.org/archive/
https://mail-archive.com/ev@lists.evdl.org/maillist.html


{brucedp.neocities.org}

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[EVDL] J1772 (Type 1) Plug/Socket Mating Issues

[Martin WINLOW via EV]

All,

For what it is worth, the early versions of Duosida (now Dostar) Type 1 (J1772) 
plugs have L, N & E connector ‘pins’ which have a small ‘collar’ around the 
open end, 1/4” or so down from the open end sitting in a groove which retains 
the collar.  The pins themselves are slit along their length into 4 equal 
segments and this allows some degree of adjustment of the inner pin hole 
diameter as it slides on to the mating male pin in the socket. The theory is 
that the collar, made of spring steel, keeps the female pin segments in contact 
with the male pin and stops the female segments from bending too much in use 
and getting damaged.

Unfortunately, early versions used monkey metal for the collars and these tend 
to rust over time.  This then binds them to the pin segments and prevents 
movement thus making it difficult for the female and male portions of the 
connector to engage.

Sometimes a small amount of penetrating fluid applied to the collars will 
loosen them up but often a new plug (or at least pin) is needed.

If the socket seal is binding (obvious when the plug engages happily initially 
but then gets hard to push in for the last 25% or so) the best lubricant to use 
is silicon spray as it does not adversely affect the (usually silicon 
rubber-based) seal in the socket.

Incidentally, spare parts for Duosida/Dostar plugs and sockets can be found at 
www.evbitz.uk  (based in Scotland).

Regards, Martin Winlow.


On 4/15/20 11:12 AM, Willie wrote:
> 
> 
> On 4/15/20 6:32 AM, paul dove via EV wrote:
>> I can attest to this problem. My I-MiEV charger I bought is really 
>> tight and actually more difficult to unplug than plug in. The one that 
>> came with the car is fine but it was 120v 8 amps.

BTW, my 2014 imievs came with 120vac EVSEs that switch between 8 and 12 
amps.

> 
> Glad to hear that!? I have two imievs and both are tight on most of my 
> EVSEs.? To the point that they don't get contact if a newbie doesn't 
> know to listen for the fan which comes on with successful contact.? It 
> hasn't bothered me enough that I have tried lubrication.? Have you?

I wrote the above, I tried lubricating.  Used some WD40 type stuff.  It 
allowed the nozzle to slip in easily.  The first time.  After a few 
days, it refused to go in no matter how much force I applied.

It seems the lubricant had caused swelling in a plastic seal in the EVSE 
nozzle.  I ended up fishing the seal out (and discarding) with a sharp 
hook type tool.  Now, insertion is easy. It could be that a slightly 
swollen seal was the source of the problem.

So, if you wish to try lubrication, I suggest trying something more 
viscus than common spray lubricant.  Grease, petroleum jelly or somesuch.


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[EVDL] J1772/Bolt issue

[Bob Bath via EV]

I have a Nissan Aerovironment unit that I charge my LEAF with fine, but that 
makes arcing sounds and shuts off periodically with my brother’s Bolt. 
   Any idea what’s going on here?

Sincerely, 
Bob Bath

Note: any misspellings of the contents of this message are due to 53 y.o. 
vision, hyperactive spell check changing what I typed, or fat fingering— not 
cluelessness. 


> On Apr 23, 2019, at 12:00 PM, Ron Solberg via EV  wrote:
> 
> Quoting Lee Hart via EV :
> 
> Having heard that the vintage Jacobs 1800 watt made more power than the 2800 
> watt plant, I am considering putting up one of each. There is a lot of 10 mph 
> wind and I expect inertia might be a factor. I have two 48 ft towers next to 
> each other. I could see how each one did charging the L16 battery. If I get 
> it done I will try to share the results. I am excited about possibly powering 
> our Tesla with a combination of PV and wind. Thanks to you all for your 
> help...Ron
> 
>> Mark Hanson via EV wrote:
>>> Hi Ron Solberg etc
>>> All small wind turbines like my Bergey XL-1 have boost converters on them 
>>> to change the varying voltage to a constant float voltage for the L16 
>>> batteries you mentioned.  13.8v is maintained per 12v increment or for your 
>>> 48v system you would use a 55.2v boost regulator for float and 60V to 
>>> equalize monthly (with equalize button).   I used a Micrel (Google data 
>>> sheet) MiC2171bu on a 24v wind turbine I had that took 6-24v in and 
>>> converted up to 30v out with a bypass low drop Schottky diode when 
>>> overspeeding. Look at SMA Windy Boy controller or Berger.com.
>>> Have a renewable energy day,
>> 
>> The modern wind generators I've seen used a PM motor. Some are DC (with a 
>> commutator), but most are AC. These will generate a voltage that varies with 
>> wind speed, so a controller of some kind is always needed.
>> 
>> The old ones all used brushed DC wound-field generators. They worked just 
>> like the old car generators; there was an armature and commutator, and a 
>> wound field coil. The output was regulated by the field current.
>> 
>> As speed increases, the field current was lowered to regulate the output 
>> voltage (and current). They worked just like the "regulator" in pre-1960's 
>> cars; a little box with two or three relays that would select 
>> off/medium/high field current. The relays were carefully adjusted to pull in 
>> at the desired voltage, and "chattered" on/off as a crude switchmode 
>> regulator. The inductance of the field winding served as the flywheel to 
>> even out the variations. This is exactly the setup we use today in a series 
>> motor controller, but with transistors doing the switching.
>> 
>> --
>> Fools ignore complexity. Pragmatists suffer it. The wise avoid it.
>> Geniuses remove it. -- Alan Perlis, "Epigrams on Programming"
>> --
>> Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com[1]
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> 
> 
> 
> Links:
> --
> [1] http://www.sunrise-ev.com
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Re: [EVDL] J1772

[Robert Bruninga via EV]

Amazon has L1 EVSE for $199 and L2 for $230
bob

On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 9:12 AM, Denis Boutet via EV 
wrote:

> Hi EV enthousiasts!
>
> Am looking for a J1772 male connector and wire to add to my existing
> charging station.  As well am looking for a 240V charging station - new or
> used, to install at my work place.  I live in the Grand Montreal area.
> Feel free ton contact me if you have one for sale or if you know anyone.
> Thanks!
>
>
> Denis Boutet
> La Vérité te libérera
>
>
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[EVDL] J1772

[Denis Boutet via EV]

Hi EV enthousiasts!

Am looking for a J1772 male connector and wire to add to my existing charging 
station.  As well am looking for a 240V charging station - new or used, to 
install at my work place.  I live in the Grand Montreal area.  Feel free ton 
contact me if you have one for sale or if you know anyone.  Thanks!


Denis Boutet
La Vérité te libérera



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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[Lawrence Rhodes via EV]

Yes you are right.  Dangerous.  I got away with it and charged a 30kw Leaf on a 
20 amp circuit. By noon and rising temperatures(40 degrees)  it was tapering.  
126 miles, plenty of range to get back to San Francisco.  Wiring upgrade to 
come.  Lawrence Rhodes
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[Cor van de Water via EV]

I am sure Lawrence is talking about his 2016 Leaf with 30kWh (not kW)
pack.
Since it is a newer Leaf, it will charge at 6.6kW instead of the 3.3
that the 2011/2012 Leaf takes (which is specifically aimed at the
European situation where most plugs and circuits are rated and fused to
230V 16A which means a max 3.7kW so a 3.3kW charger maxes out a standard
wall plug in Europe).
6.6kW at 240V is 27.5 Amps so it is even too much for a 30A service as
continuous load although the standard 24kWh Leaf pack usually does not
take more than 18kWh to fully recharge, so less than 3 hours which means
that you could sneak by the 80% derating for continuous load by never
charging long enough to get hit by that limit and you can cosy up to the
100% rating for the circuit.
Note that an EVSE destined for a 30A service will limit the current at
24A by modulating the Pilot signal and thus forcing the EV to never draw
more than 24A x 240V = 5760W.
Only a 40A (or 50A) circuit will allow an EVSE to supply the full power
that a newer Leaf can draw by modulating the Pilot signal to allow
drawing 32 (or 40) Amps.

Cor van de Water 
Chief Scientist 
Proxim Wireless 
  
office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 

http://www.proxim.com

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-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of EVDL
Administrator via EV
Sent: Sunday, December 25, 2016 1:45 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip
breaker.

On 25 Dec 2016 at 19:42, Lawrence Rhodes via EV wrote:

> I have been charging the 30kw Leaf for hours now and still not tripped
the
> breaker here in Modesto ...

I take it this is 240v, so you have a 125 amp breaker?  That's what you 
would need to deliver 30kw.  I assume that's wired directly to the EVSE.

Heck of a cable!  But what EVSE can supply 125 amps?

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[EVDL Administrator via EV]

On 25 Dec 2016 at 13:03, Cor van de Water via EV wrote:

> Even though the (cold-exposed) breaker might not trip, please remember the
> purpose of the breaker is to protect the *wire* after the breaker from
> overload.

The breaker is also intended to protect the receptacle and connected 
equipment.  That's why a 30a recept is protected at 30a.  

It'a also the reason that plugs and receptacles are matched by rating:  you 
can't plug a 50a plug into a 30a receptacle and vice versa.  For example, if 
you could connect an appliance or EVSE with a 30a rated plug and cord to a 
receptacle protected by a 50a breaker, the breaker wouldn't protect the 
connected plug and cord properly.  They could get hot and melt, causing a 
fire, even if the wiring to the receptacle remained cool and save and the 
breaker didn't trip.  (I hope that's clear, I don't think I described it all 
that well.)

The code makes an exception to this plug/receptacle matching requirement for 
circuits <= 20a.  I assume this is because of the overall lower power 
available in those circuits, but I don't write the code.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[EVDL Administrator via EV]

On 25 Dec 2016 at 19:42, Lawrence Rhodes via EV wrote:

> I have been charging the 30kw Leaf for hours now and still not tripped the
> breaker here in Modesto ...

I take it this is 240v, so you have a 125 amp breaker?  That's what you 
would need to deliver 30kw.  I assume that's wired directly to the EVSE. 
Heck of a cable!  But what EVSE can supply 125 amps?

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[Cor van de Water via EV]

Lawrence,

Even though the (cold-exposed) breaker might not trip, please remember the 
purpose of the breaker is to protect the *wire* after the breaker from 
overload. If that wire run through insulated walls, it might overheat and get 
damaged, even though the breaker does not trip, so please refrain from 
overloading a breaker just because you can.
I remember reading the report from a fire inspector who was called to a home 
that was remodeled and existing walls were insulated and new sheetrock 
installed and painted in winter and so in order to let it dry properly they 
used two small electric space heaters to warm up the remodeled room, but the 
breaker kept popping so they replaced the 15A breaker with a 20A one without 
checking wire gauge. The next night the room caught on fire because the 
undersized wiring in the newly insulated wall was overheating from the 
combination of the increased breaker rating allowing more current than the wire 
size was rated for and the new insulation preventing the hot spot to get 
adequate air flow cooling...
If you can, please check with LeafSpy how much the car is actually drawing from 
the 240V EVSE and make sure to either modify the EVSE or the service to keep 
the continuous draw at 80% of the rating of the circuit.

Good luck,

Cor van de Water 
Chief Scientist 
Proxim Wireless 
  
office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 

http://www.proxim.com

This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and 
proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received this 
message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any unauthorized 
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-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes via EV
Sent: Sunday, December 25, 2016 11:43 AM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org; ev-requ...@lists.evdl.org
Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

I have been charging the 30kw Leaf for hours now and still not tripped the 
breaker here in Modesto.  However the temperature is near freezing. I'll check 
again soon and report back.  Temperature does make a difference.  A frozen 20 
amp service will suffice for a while for a 30 amp EVSE.  Lawrence Rhodes
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[Lawrence Rhodes via EV]

I have been charging the 30kw Leaf for hours now and still not tripped the 
breaker here in Modesto.  However the temperature is near freezing. I'll check 
again soon and report back.  Temperature does make a difference.  A frozen 20 
amp service will suffice for a while for a 30 amp EVSE.  Lawrence Rhodes
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[Lawrence Rhodes via EV]

That would defeat the inexpensive route I have taken.  The thing to do is 
upgrade the wires, socket & breakers as needed.  Lawrence Rhodes

Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android device
On Dec 24, 2016 11:24 PM, David Nelson  wrote:
>
> Lawrence,
>
> I purchased an evseupgrade.com Leaf (Panasonic) portable EVSE that was
> modified to work on 240V. I can program it in 1A increments from 6A to
> 20A. My 2016 Soul EV+ has no problem following the EVSE current
> requests. I agree with John, your EVSE is the problem not the Leaf.
> You could just send your portable EVSE to evseupgrade.exe and have
> them modify it.
>
> On Sat, Dec 24, 2016 at 9:57 PM, Lawrence Rhodes via EV
>  wrote:
> > Is there any way I can tell the Leaf to only draw 20 amps? The EVSE is 
> > certainly not doing it.  Remember I am using an EVSE designed for the Ford 
> > Th!nk. Avcon standard which is supposed to be the same a J1772.   It has 
> > worked well with both the 3.3kw Leaf and the 6.6kw Leaf.  The problem is in 
> > Modesto we still have the old 220vac 20 amp circuit and we have to charge 
> > there.  We don't have the 3,3 kw Leaf anymore. I was skeptical that the 
> > EVSE can do this and I seem to be proved right even though my new Leaf's 
> > have both the 6.6 and 3.3 charge cycles on the dash. Has anyone ever tried 
> > to plug their EVSE into a 20 amp circuit with a 6.6kw EV?  .   Lawrence 
> > Rhodes
> > -- next part --
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> > Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/
> > Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
> >
>
>
>
> -- 
> David D. Nelson
> http://evalbum.com/1328
> http://www.levforum.com
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[Cor van de Water via EV]

Lawrence,
the basis of the J1772 standard is that the *EVSE* tells the EV how much it is 
allowed to draw.
If you take an EVSE designed for a 40A service, so it knows it can draw 32A 
continuous, it will tell the EV in its pilot signal that the car can draw up to 
32A and depending on the capabilities of the car, it might draw a lower amount 
(as you found out with your 3kW Leaf) or the allowed 32A.
The only way the car will draw less, is when it is told to draw less.
So, you need to modify the Pilot signal of this EVSE or use a different EVSE 
that tells the EV to draw less than 20A.
For example, if you take your Nissan OEM trickle charger and modify it for 240V 
then it will still tell the car to draw max 12A, and since you can supply 240V, 
the car will draw up to 2.9kW by limiting its charger to 12A.
If you use a JuiceBox you can choose the max pilot signal. There are already a 
few JuicePlugs out, this is a short J1772 to J1772 "adapter" that can modify 
the pilot signal to make the car draw less (or nothing) at times that the cost 
of electricity is high and draw max power when there is surplus power. But 
there are plenty 16A or 20A EVSE that are even portable so you can use that in 
addition or as replacement of your Nissan OEM trickle charger. I have made two 
friends happy with the 20A ClipperCreek LCS-25 which needs a 25 or 30A breaker 
and its pilot tells the car to draw 20A, it is very portable and easy to plug 
into a dryer outlet to get 4.8kW into the car. I just added a NEMA 14-30 plug 
to its wire pigtail and they use it as EVSE at home and on the road.
Success!

Cor van de Water 
Chief Scientist 
Proxim Wireless 
  
office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 

http://www.proxim.com

This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and 
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message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any unauthorized 
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-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes via EV
Sent: Saturday, December 24, 2016 9:58 PM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org; ev-requ...@lists.evdl.org
Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

Is there any way I can tell the Leaf to only draw 20 amps? The EVSE is 
certainly not doing it.  Remember I am using an EVSE designed for the Ford 
Th!nk. Avcon standard which is supposed to be the same a J1772.   It has worked 
well with both the 3.3kw Leaf and the 6.6kw Leaf.  The problem is in Modesto we 
still have the old 220vac 20 amp circuit and we have to charge there.  We don't 
have the 3,3 kw Leaf anymore. I was skeptical that the EVSE can do this and I 
seem to be proved right even though my new Leaf's have both the 6.6 and 3.3 
charge cycles on the dash. Has anyone ever tried to plug their EVSE into a 20 
amp circuit with a 6.6kw EV?  .   Lawrence Rhodes 
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[David Nelson via EV]

Lawrence,

I purchased an evseupgrade.com Leaf (Panasonic) portable EVSE that was
modified to work on 240V. I can program it in 1A increments from 6A to
20A. My 2016 Soul EV+ has no problem following the EVSE current
requests. I agree with John, your EVSE is the problem not the Leaf.
You could just send your portable EVSE to evseupgrade.exe and have
them modify it.

On Sat, Dec 24, 2016 at 9:57 PM, Lawrence Rhodes via EV
 wrote:
> Is there any way I can tell the Leaf to only draw 20 amps? The EVSE is 
> certainly not doing it.  Remember I am using an EVSE designed for the Ford 
> Th!nk. Avcon standard which is supposed to be the same a J1772.   It has 
> worked well with both the 3.3kw Leaf and the 6.6kw Leaf.  The problem is in 
> Modesto we still have the old 220vac 20 amp circuit and we have to charge 
> there.  We don't have the 3,3 kw Leaf anymore. I was skeptical that the EVSE 
> can do this and I seem to be proved right even though my new Leaf's have both 
> the 6.6 and 3.3 charge cycles on the dash. Has anyone ever tried to plug 
> their EVSE into a 20 amp circuit with a 6.6kw EV?  .   Lawrence Rhodes
> -- next part --
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>



-- 
David D. Nelson
http://evalbum.com/1328
http://www.levforum.com
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[John Lussmyer via EV]

Ahh, you are using a EVSE that is built for a 40A circuit, on a 20A circuit.
It's up to the EVSE to tell the car how much current it may draw.  The EVSE 
assumes it can draw the full 32A it's rated for.
You need a different EVSE, or a different circuit.

On Sat Dec 24 21:57:55 PST 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>Is there any way I can tell the Leaf to only draw 20 amps? The EVSE is 
>certainly not doing it.  Remember I am using an EVSE designed for the Ford 
>Th!nk. Avcon standard which is supposed to be the same a J1772.   It has 
>worked well with both the 3.3kw Leaf and the 6.6kw Leaf.  The problem is in 
>Modesto we still have the old 220vac 20 amp circuit and we have to charge 
>there.  We don't have the 3,3 kw Leaf anymore. I was skeptical that the EVSE 
>can do this and I seem to be proved right even though my new Leaf's have both 
>the 6.6 and 3.3 charge cycles on the dash. Has anyone ever tried to plug their 
>EVSE into a 20 amp circuit with a 6.6kw EV?  .   Lawrence Rhodes


--

Try my Sensible Email package!  https://sourceforge.net/projects/sensibleemail/
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[Lawrence Rhodes via EV]

Is there any way I can tell the Leaf to only draw 20 amps? The EVSE is 
certainly not doing it.  Remember I am using an EVSE designed for the Ford 
Th!nk. Avcon standard which is supposed to be the same a J1772.   It has worked 
well with both the 3.3kw Leaf and the 6.6kw Leaf.  The problem is in Modesto we 
still have the old 220vac 20 amp circuit and we have to charge there.  We don't 
have the 3,3 kw Leaf anymore. I was skeptical that the EVSE can do this and I 
seem to be proved right even though my new Leaf's have both the 6.6 and 3.3 
charge cycles on the dash. Has anyone ever tried to plug their EVSE into a 20 
amp circuit with a 6.6kw EV?  .   Lawrence Rhodes 
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[Cor van de Water via EV]

Lawrence,
Did you actually verify the duty cycle on the pilot before concluding that it 
is the Leaf's fault? It is possible that the pilot is not correct and allows 
the Leaf to draw too much current, so the EVSE might be at fault, not the Leaf?
If this were a problem, every single person who modifies their Leaf OEM charger 
to be able to plug into 240 instead of 120V would see their cord burn up, since 
that EVSE tells the Leaf to draw exactly 12A which it does (I verified with the 
LeafSpy on 120V)
So I am sceptical of calling this a problem in the Leaf after modding the EVSE, 
my first guess would be a problem in the pilot, but let us know how you 
verified the Pilot signal.

Regards,

Cor van de Water 
Chief Scientist 
Proxim Wireless 
  
office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 

http://www.proxim.com

This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and 
proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received this 
message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any unauthorized 
use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of this message is 
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-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes via EV
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2016 3:25 PM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org; ev-requ...@lists.evdl.org
Subject: [EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

I tested my adapter to 20 amp 220 and blew the breaker on my 2016 Leaf.  It 
didn't go to 3.3kw but stayed with 6.6 and blew the breaker.  So much for sense 
protocol. I suspected as much.  Lawrence Rhodes
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[EVDL] J1772 might not go to a low level but just trip breaker.

[Lawrence Rhodes via EV]

I tested my adapter to 20 amp 220 and blew the breaker on my 2016 Leaf.  It 
didn't go to 3.3kw but stayed with 6.6 and blew the breaker.  So much for sense 
protocol. I suspected as much.  Lawrence Rhodes
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 cable

[Rush Dougherty via EV]

This company is in the Czech Republic. According to their 'Transportation Price
List', the cost to ship 1kg is $59, 10kg is $85. The cost of the plug and cord,
including VAT, is $83.49, so the cost is at least $142. 49, not including the
customs you will pay or couple weeks it will take to get here...

TucsonEV.com will send you a J1772 Plug with 20ft of 30A cord for $125 plus
shipping, $18.75 for a total of $143.75 and you'll have it within a week

Rush Dougherty
www.TucsonEV.com


> -Original Message-
> From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of via EV
> Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2016 1:37 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: [EVDL] J1772 cable
>
> I found this low cost cable and wondered if anybody has dealt with this
company?EV-Power |
> J1772 Plug for EV car L2 charging (16 Amp - 5 meters, no electronics) - SALE!
>
>
> |
> |
> |
> |   ||
>
>|
>
>   |
> |
> |   |
> EV-Power | J1772 Plug for EV car L2 charging (16 Amp - 5 meters, no electro...
>  By Global World Logistic Ltd. http://www.ev-power.eu J1772 Plug for EV car L2
charging (16
> Amp - 5 meters, no electronics) - SALE - SAE J1772 EV Plug with 5 meter ca...
|   |
>
>   |
>
>   |
>
>
> -- next part --
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 cable

[via EV]

I ended up going with 
this,https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPSP760/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8=1
I really didn't want to full with the DIY pilot signal generators.  I already 
have 240V in the garage and I can take this cable with me in the carry case.  
This is for a 2014 Volt, so I think the current will be less than 16A. 

On Saturday, December 17, 2016 3:46 PM, Cor van de Water via EV 
<ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
 

 Hi Rod,
at 16Amp this cable is good for charging an early Leaf or making a 110V
"trickle" charger, not for full L2 charging.
I have never dealt with this company, but I presume that the low
Amperage of the cables are the reason for the low price.
Note that there was an issue with some EVSE vendor cables that were not
crimped to spec and caused overheating in the plug, which can damage the
inlet of the car, so if you go with this cable do make sure to inspect
the crimping of the contacts in the plug and if necessary re-solder them
to make sure they do not more damage than you save with the discount
cable.
(Note: I have bought a similar discount cable from somewhere else myself
and I will make sure to inspect the plug's crimping before putting it
into service)
Be safe,

Cor van de Water 
Chief Scientist 
Proxim Wireless 
  
office +1 408 383 7626                    Skype: cor_van_de_water 
XoIP  +31 87 784 1130                    private: cvandewater.info 

http://www.proxim.com

This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
this message is prohibited.


-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of via EV
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2016 12:37 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: [EVDL] J1772 cable

I found this low cost cable and wondered if anybody has dealt with this
company?EV-Power | J1772 Plug for EV car L2 charging (16 Amp - 5 meters,
no electronics) - SALE!

  
|  
|  
|  
|  |    |

  |

  |
|  
|  |  
EV-Power | J1772 Plug for EV car L2 charging (16 Amp - 5 meters, no
electro...
 By Global World Logistic Ltd. http://www.ev-power.eu J1772 Plug for EV
car L2 charging (16 Amp - 5 meters, no electronics) - SALE - SAE J1772
EV Plug with 5 meter ca...  |  |

  |

  |

 
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 cable

[Cor van de Water via EV]

Hi Rod,
at 16Amp this cable is good for charging an early Leaf or making a 110V
"trickle" charger, not for full L2 charging.
I have never dealt with this company, but I presume that the low
Amperage of the cables are the reason for the low price.
Note that there was an issue with some EVSE vendor cables that were not
crimped to spec and caused overheating in the plug, which can damage the
inlet of the car, so if you go with this cable do make sure to inspect
the crimping of the contacts in the plug and if necessary re-solder them
to make sure they do not more damage than you save with the discount
cable.
(Note: I have bought a similar discount cable from somewhere else myself
and I will make sure to inspect the plug's crimping before putting it
into service)
Be safe,

Cor van de Water 
Chief Scientist 
Proxim Wireless 
  
office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 

http://www.proxim.com

This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
this message is prohibited.


-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of via EV
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2016 12:37 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: [EVDL] J1772 cable

I found this low cost cable and wondered if anybody has dealt with this
company?EV-Power | J1772 Plug for EV car L2 charging (16 Amp - 5 meters,
no electronics) - SALE!

  
|  
|   
|   
|   ||

   |

  |
|  
|   |  
EV-Power | J1772 Plug for EV car L2 charging (16 Amp - 5 meters, no
electro...
 By Global World Logistic Ltd. http://www.ev-power.eu J1772 Plug for EV
car L2 charging (16 Amp - 5 meters, no electronics) - SALE - SAE J1772
EV Plug with 5 meter ca...  |   |

  |

  |

 
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[EVDL] J1772 cable

[via EV]

I found this low cost cable and wondered if anybody has dealt with this 
company?EV-Power | J1772 Plug for EV car L2 charging (16 Amp - 5 meters, no 
electronics) - SALE!

  
|  
|   
|   
|   ||

   |

  |
|  
|   |  
EV-Power | J1772 Plug for EV car L2 charging (16 Amp - 5 meters, no electro...
 By Global World Logistic Ltd. http://www.ev-power.eu J1772 Plug for EV car L2 
charging (16 Amp - 5 meters, no electronics) - SALE - SAE J1772 EV Plug with 5 
meter ca...  |   |

  |

  |

 
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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Mike Scott via EV]

I went by the store a couple of days ago and they gave me a Mother's day
flyer with a 25% off coupon. It's only good for next weekend.

On Tue, Apr 26, 2016 at 2:55 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org>
wrote:

> Bill,
> Thanks - I am planning to convert my Lead-Acid pack to Li later this
> year
> as it has been deteriorating after 16,500 miles and 4 years of almost
> daily commute, so I probably will need to make new cables for that
> conversion.
> I printed your coupon and noticed that it is valid till end this week,
> then I came home and found the weekly junk mail stash in the mailbox -
> but the back page caught my eye: Harbor Freight ads and a 20% off
> coupon,
> only the paper coupon is valid till July!
> Probably that the digital coupon will get renewed every week or so, but
> it was a nice coincidence to get both at the same day!
>
> Cor van de Water
> Chief Scientist
> Proxim Wireless
>
> office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water
> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info
>
> http://www.proxim.com
>
> This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
> proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
> this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
> unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
> this message is prohibited.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Bill Dube via
> EV
> Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 11:30 AM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?
>
> Harbor Freight sells an outstanding hydraulic crimper at a bargain
> price:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
> For $55  there is no reason to use a hammer crimper.
>
> I have used the next size up from this one, made by the same
> manufacturer, for about ten years. I have made countless crimps with
> zero failures. Beautiful crimps of all different sizes with little
> effort.
>
> Here is a 20% off coupon, so you can get a crimper for $44:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html
>
>   Bill D.
>
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>
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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Cor van de Water via EV]

Bill,
Thanks - I am planning to convert my Lead-Acid pack to Li later this
year
as it has been deteriorating after 16,500 miles and 4 years of almost
daily commute, so I probably will need to make new cables for that
conversion.
I printed your coupon and noticed that it is valid till end this week,
then I came home and found the weekly junk mail stash in the mailbox -
but the back page caught my eye: Harbor Freight ads and a 20% off
coupon,
only the paper coupon is valid till July!
Probably that the digital coupon will get renewed every week or so, but
it was a nice coincidence to get both at the same day!

Cor van de Water 
Chief Scientist 
Proxim Wireless 
  
office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 

http://www.proxim.com

This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
this message is prohibited.

-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Bill Dube via
EV
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 11:30 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

Harbor Freight sells an outstanding hydraulic crimper at a bargain
price:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
For $55  there is no reason to use a hammer crimper.

I have used the next size up from this one, made by the same 
manufacturer, for about ten years. I have made countless crimps with 
zero failures. Beautiful crimps of all different sizes with little
effort.

Here is a 20% off coupon, so you can get a crimper for $44:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html

  Bill D.

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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Michael Ross via EV]

When your very large business is on the line, no half or even three quarter
measures are acceptable.  I will tell you what Caterpillar did in the 90's
to make wiring last in really harsh conditions.  They used Deutsch
connectors and they are crimped with Deutsch equipment. They prefer the
machined pin and socket systems because they are what will not fail on a
multi-million dollar piece of equipment where downtime is simply not
acceptable.  They base their choices on science not speculation.

Power is done as Lee says, crimp and dip, or with ultrasonic fusion. They
like a single ground and that means some large splices done
ultrasonically.  They use sealed heat shrink (Raychem). Power connectors
were not Deutsch above a certain level. Can't remember the source(s).
Bada$$ starters on enormous diesels need 00 wire.

This is how you do it when you run tracked machines over rock non-stop, for
years, and anticipate getting mired in a swamp.

I think a solder pot is a good and prudent investment for an EV DIYer.

On Mon, Apr 25, 2016 at 2:54 PM, Lee Hart via EV  wrote:

> Bill Dube via EV wrote:
>
>> Harbor Freight sells an outstanding hydraulic crimper at a bargain price:
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
>> For $55 there is no reason to use a hammer crimper.
>>
>> I have used the next size up from this one, made by the same
>> manufacturer, for about ten years. I have made countless crimps with
>> zero failures. Beautiful crimps of all different sizes with little effort.
>>
>> Here is a 20% off coupon, so you can get a crimper for $44:
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html
>>
>
> A great deal! Thanks, Bill. :-)
>
> --
> Imagination is your preview of life’s coming attractions. -- Albert
> Einstein
> --
> Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
> ___
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>
>


-- 
To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison


A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
*Warren Buffet*

Michael E. Ross
(919) 585-6737 Land
(919) 576-0824  Mobile and
Google Phone

michael.e.r...@gmail.com

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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Buddy Mills via EV]

I purchased the unit from harbor freight in 2009.  All of my crimps are over 6 
years old and nary a problem so far.

Buddy Mills 

On April 25, 2016 2:29:42 PM EDT, Bill Dube via EV  wrote:
>Harbor Freight sells an outstanding hydraulic crimper at a bargain
>price:
>http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
>For $55  there is no reason to use a hammer crimper.
>
>I have used the next size up from this one, made by the same 
>manufacturer, for about ten years. I have made countless crimps with 
>zero failures. Beautiful crimps of all different sizes with little
>effort.
>
>Here is a 20% off coupon, so you can get a crimper for $44:
>http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html
>
>  Bill D.
>
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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Lee Hart via EV]

Bill Dube via EV wrote:

Harbor Freight sells an outstanding hydraulic crimper at a bargain price:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
For $55 there is no reason to use a hammer crimper.

I have used the next size up from this one, made by the same
manufacturer, for about ten years. I have made countless crimps with
zero failures. Beautiful crimps of all different sizes with little effort.

Here is a 20% off coupon, so you can get a crimper for $44:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html


A great deal! Thanks, Bill. :-)

--
Imagination is your preview of life’s coming attractions. -- Albert Einstein
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Lee Hart via EV]

EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:

I agree that a hex crimper is better, and I recommend one if you're pulling
currents upwards of 600+ amps.  However, I've used a hammer crimper for
years with currents <= 400a, and have never yet had a problem.

I think the trick is to use a heavy enough hammer - I use a small sledge -
and don't be shy about it.


The main problem with cheap crimpers is that they don't control the 
pressure -- *YOU* do! If you don't apply enough pressure, the crimp may 
look OK, but it's no good!


To make a good crimp requires enough pressure to cold-weld the metals 
together. If you cut apart the crimp, you'll find that the wires have 
welded to each other. The fancy crimpers have some means to guarantee 
that you produce enough pressure to do this.


If you're going to use a hammer crimper, you need to TEST each crimp 
yourself. This can be done with a commercial or home-brew milli-ohmmeter 
that can read down to 0.001 ohm or less.


The home-brew method is to run a high known current through the 
connection, and measure the voltage drop across it. For example, use 
your battery charger to deliver (say) 10 amps to a battery through your 
"test" crimp connection. Use your digital multimeter to measure the 
voltage drop across that connection. Then use Ohm's law (R = V/I) to 
tell you the resistance.


For example, you measure a 0.1v drop at 10 amps = 0.01 ohms (a bad 
crimp)! That connection would produce I^2R = 1.6 KW of heat at 400 amps!


A good crimp will be more like 0.0001 ohms. That produces a 0.001v (100 
millivolt) drop at 10 amps, and only I^2R = 16 watts of heat at 400 amps.

--
Imagination is your preview of life’s coming attractions. -- Albert Einstein
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Bill Dube via EV]

Harbor Freight sells an outstanding hydraulic crimper at a bargain price:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
For $55  there is no reason to use a hammer crimper.

I have used the next size up from this one, made by the same 
manufacturer, for about ten years. I have made countless crimps with 
zero failures. Beautiful crimps of all different sizes with little effort.


Here is a 20% off coupon, so you can get a crimper for $44:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html

 Bill D.

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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[EVDL Administrator via EV]

On 25 Apr 2016 at 12:19, Lee Hart via EV wrote:

> There are lots of BAD crimpers out there, too. Cheap, hardware-store
> toys, and "hammer crimpers" that don't produce good crimps. 

I agree that a hex crimper is better, and I recommend one if you're pulling 
currents upwards of 600+ amps.  However, I've used a hammer crimper for 
years with currents <= 400a, and have never yet had a problem.  YMMV of 
course.

I think the trick is to use a heavy enough hammer - I use a small sledge - 
and don't be shy about it.  I've seen recommendations to pinch it in a vise 
or press instead, but I see no advantage to that over a few good hammer 
blows.

One downside of a hammer crimper is that you can't crimp a connection with 
the cable in the car.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Lee Hart via EV]

Michael Ross via EV wrote:

I have to give Jay big yay for the perfect answer. Solder loses any ability
to create a useful joint when it liquifies, hence the need for some very
solid mechanical joining means. The failure modes are truly bad with power
involved.


Agreed; a good answer.

Solder is mechanically weak, and has a low melting point. It's fine for 
little low-power stuff, when there is negligible shock and vibration. It 
is, after all, how 99.9% of all electronic connections are made on 
circuit boards. :-)


But, it's a poor choice for high power, things that get hot, or where 
there is mechanical stress.



Crimping to make gas-tight fused connection is the only acceptable joint.


Well, to play devil's advocate... It is *possible* to make excellent 
reliable strong high-power solder joints. It's just harder to do. 
Soldered copper water pipes are one obvious example. Hams have used this 
for high-power RF antenna work for decades. Other examples are 
silver-soldering and brazing. Both use stronger, higher-temperature 
"solders". You'll find them used in all sorts of high power electrical 
work, like attaching wires to commutator bars in a motor, or big lugs 
onto transformer windings.


But most people just use a good crimper instead. It's easier. If the 
person doing the work is unskilled, a good crimper can make up for it.


Note: There are lots of BAD crimpers out there, too. Cheap, 
hardware-store toys, and "hammer crimpers" that don't produce good 
crimps. If forced to use one of these, it is a good idea to *also* 
solder the connection. The crimp provides at least some mechanical 
support, and the solder provides the electrical conductivity and keeps 
out corrosion.


On stiffening the wire from wicking: This depends strongly on how you 
solder it. I have a solder pot. To solder a big lug on a cable, I put 
flux on the wire, put it in the terminal, crimp it, then dip it in the 
solder pot for 2-3 seconds. That's all it takes. There is no time for 
solder to wick up the wire.


In any case, you don't want the wire coming out of a crimp to be 
unsupported. It will still break strands (soldered or not) if allowed to 
flex at the crimp. You must have some kind of anti-bending support or 
strain relief. This is usually provided by the shell of the connector, 
or the crimp terminal itself may have an insulation grip.


--
Imagination is your preview of life’s coming attractions. -- Albert Einstein
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Michael Ross via EV]

I have to give Jay big yay for the perfect answer. Solder loses any ability
to create a useful joint when it liquifies, hence the need for some very
solid mechanical joining means. The failure modes are truly bad with power
involved.

Crimping to make gas-tight fused connection is the only acceptable joint.
Preferably, a pin and socket connection which allows rotation of the wires
is chosen to take stress off of the interface between the wire and crimp.
Non-rotating connections eventually work harden and break the wire.
Vibration and thermal cycling ramp this up. This might not be a big deal
with EV charging connectors, but...

If you DIY a poor crimp and try to mitigate using solder, the solder WILL
wick up the wire stiffening it. This will be a potential failure point, but
it is better than solder with no crimp or an in improper crimp.

Don't take this lightly or you may burn down your home. I would try to find
or rent a good crimper. The PV industry uses good DC rated wire connector
systems. In CA you may be able to locate good tools and connectors easier
than the rest of the country.
On Apr 23, 2016 10:20 PM, "Jay Summet via EV"  wrote:

> You need mechanical attachment, which crimping gives you.
>
> Soldering in addition to crimping may decrease your resistance, but also
> risks wicking up the copper cable and making the cable susceptible to
> breaking if flexed.  (If the pin to cable connection is inside a connector
> that prevents that area of the cable from flexing, this may not be a big
> issue.)
>
> Jay
>
> On 04/23/2016 09:53 PM, Lawrence Rhodes via EV wrote:
>
>> There is a heated debate on Facebook as to weather it is acceptable to
>> solder the J1772 pins to make your DIY cord.  I think crimping or soldering
>> will work.  But at 14.4kw there might be issues with solder.  I don't see
>> the problem of heat at 6.6kw.  Lawrence Rhodes
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Re: [EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Jay Summet via EV]

You need mechanical attachment, which crimping gives you.

Soldering in addition to crimping may decrease your resistance, but also 
risks wicking up the copper cable and making the cable susceptible to 
breaking if flexed.  (If the pin to cable connection is inside a 
connector that prevents that area of the cable from flexing, this may 
not be a big issue.)


Jay

On 04/23/2016 09:53 PM, Lawrence Rhodes via EV wrote:

There is a heated debate on Facebook as to weather it is acceptable to solder 
the J1772 pins to make your DIY cord.  I think crimping or soldering will work. 
 But at 14.4kw there might be issues with solder.  I don't see the problem of 
heat at 6.6kw.  Lawrence Rhodes
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[EVDL] J1772. Solder or crimp?

[Lawrence Rhodes via EV]

There is a heated debate on Facebook as to weather it is acceptable to solder 
the J1772 pins to make your DIY cord.  I think crimping or soldering will work. 
 But at 14.4kw there might be issues with solder.  I don't see the problem of 
heat at 6.6kw.  Lawrence Rhodes
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[EVDL] J1772 cable splitter charges two 3kW plugins off a L2 6kW EVSE, +

[brucedp5 via EV]

[ref
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/EVangel-about-retrofit-CT-2100-EVSE-to-have-L2-6kW-3kW-access-tp4671320.html
EVangel-about: retrofit CT-2100 EVSE to have L2 6kW  3kW access
]

I recently took a few images of a few EVSE sites and threw them up on a web
site for you all to see
http://brucedp14.altervista.org/evse14/

Take a look at the 3rd image where it shows a ccg/ECOtality Blink L3 EVSE
with covers over the two displays. The covers are blue plastic static mats
that the company's drivers decided to use as a way to protect the displays
from the intense sun and heat wave we are having in CA. The display on a
Blink EVSE is a major failure item.

Installer's decision to install all their EVSE facing the sun was really
quite dumb. If the L2 EVSE had been Coulomb's Chargepoint EVSE which has a
bright gas display, it would not have mattered. But the sun is so bright,
the driver wanting a charge has a difficult time viewing Blink's LCD display
even when they are working. It would have been wiser to reverse the position
of the EVSE when it was installed so it faced away from the sun. These are
one of many points that EVSE companies and their contract installers do not
care about, but the drivers that use the EVSE do.

Note the fourth image showing a j1772 splitter / Y box 
http://brucedp14.altervista.org/evse14/evse-ca-rwc-silverspringnetworks-20140821-002am.jpg
one of the drivers put together that allows two plugins with 3kW on-board
chargers charge off one 6kW Blink L2 EVSE. This is a better utilization of
their company's EVSE (it saves them money in the long run by not having to
install more EVSE).

And that brings me to a point that although the amount of EVSE in the SF Bay
Area is quite good when compared to other parts of N. America, the amount of
plugin vehicles has grown to already max-out that EV charging capacity (all
the EVSE are being fully utilized).

Next look at the EVSE that was installed at a Jr. College. After talking to
several people on-site, it turns out that the EVSE in the staff parking lot
is only for them, and the EVSE in the student/public lot is for everyone
else. Note these are the lower purchase cost Schneider L2 6kW EVSE that are
using Coulomb's Chargepoint EVSE network (you need one of their rfid cards
to activate them). Their parking signs say a 4 hour limit.

In both lots, all the EV spaces were being used by plugins that only had a
L2 3kW charger on-board. It is too bad there are no public EVSE for sale
that have two J1772 couplers, designed to charge two plugins that only need
3kW each like the way that splitter Y box allows, or to allow a 6kW charge
if there is only one EV using that EVSE (that approach is similar to what
Tesla EVSE do: adjust and spread the charging power load out across the EVs
that are plugged-in). That would be better than what the Blink L3 EVSE does:
only charge one EV at a time.

Next, I was able to find where a Nissan dealership relocated their L3 EVSE.
The Leaf sales rep gave me incorrect instructions (typical of a sale rep),
and when I came back to inform him of where it really was he said Yea, that
is where I told you it was (no he didn't).

You can also see that same Nissan branded L3 EVSE has been installed at both
a library and a parking garage. But both of those have blue-taped paper
signs on them saying they are not operational pending approval. So, what all
the money was spend to buy them, install them, and they can not be used?!? 

Leaving EVSE out in the public unused is asking for trouble. In this case
the brand new L3 EVSE at the library had already been vandalized (they
smashed the screen so that EVSE is now unusable even when it does get
approval).

The images below that are not recent and on my to do list to get more recent
images. But I can tell you that those older images showing the EVSE as under
used, are an example of how much the need for EVSE has grown, as those EV
spaces today are now much more used from so many more plugin drivers.

The second from the last image shows the aforementioned combo Coulomb
CT-2100 EVSE that have both a L2 6kW j1772 coupler and a L1 1.3kW 5-20
outlet (behind a metal cover-door). At that site, those EV spaces are now
packed full / well used. Especially now that the city sold a parking lot
that you can see in the last image. The new owner of the land is building a
huge multi-story apt/condo complex on it.

I am hoping to contact the city's fleet manager to request that the EVSE
they must have yanked and saved, should be relocated to another site that
will better serve the citizens that is farther away and nearer to another
major highway (280). 

While I make these efforts, I have been told by the powers that be, that I
am only a hobbyist (an amateur, someone not to be listened to). Sadly, who
those powers do listen to are not the people who use the EVSE (like
drivers/us), but those so called EVSE professionals that installed the EVSE
completely wrong (see above). Yet, I 

Re: [EVDL] J1772 cable splitter charges two 3kW plugins off a L2 6kW EVSE, +

[David Rees via EV]

On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 9:16 AM, Mike Nickerson via EV
ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
 There is a Chargepoint EVSE that does have two J1772 ports.  Each port can 
 charge at 6 kW if used alone.  If both ports are being used, they get 3 kW 
 each.  Chargepoint calls this charge sharing.  The EVSE is fed with a single 
 40A / 240V line.

 HP in Boise installed two of these early this year.  I would have to look up 
 the model number.

http://www.chargepoint.com/stations/

CT4021 or CT4023. Seems like a no-brainer to install these over the
single plug stations, but Chargepoint does charge a lot for their
hardware.

There is an open source solution, too, called the Hydra. It plugs into
any J1772 EVSE and allows multiple EVSEs to split the available
current.

https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Hydra

-Dave
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[tomw]

/My solution was to use a 4pin twist-lock connector, it's in parallel to the
J1772 socket. The pilot from the J1772 is connected to the neutral pin on
the twistlock through a diode and load resistor. In order to enable the
EVSE there has to be a dummy plug with a jumper from Neutral to GND in the
twist-lock.  That way no pins are exposed when the EVSE goes live.

Since the J1772 socket is is idiot proof I'm not really concerned that
there is live voltage on those pins when I connect to the twist-lock. /
I have both a J1772 and a 50A Marinco connector.  At first I put a triplet
of 75A Anderson connectors on each cord to connect the charger (through an
energy meter) to one or the other.  That got to be a pain pretty quick, so I
installed a 240V/50A DPDT relay with 240VAC coil:
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/magnecraft-schneider-electric-w199apx15.html?p=29816731
The J1772 is the default, the relay clicks to the other position when I plug
in through the Marinco.  The 50A permits me to charge at higher power than
the J1772 since it is only a 40A one, and most EVSE's are 32A max. 



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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[Mike Nickerson]

I thought everyone would be interested in knowing what I finally did.  I
elected to leave the car alone and get the J1772 Adapter Box from TucsonEV.
I put a NEMA L6-30P connector on the end, and plugged it into my car.  I've
been using it with the ChargePoint EVSEs at work and it's working fine.

I did this for two reasons:  

I already have L6-30P pigtails for 110/20A and 220/20A for convenience
charging and charging at home.  Also, the L6-30R installation into the car
was kind of a shoe-horn.  I wasn't looking forward to working in that area
of the car again.  For the time being, it was easier and cheaper to just add
another pigtail to the collection for charging at work.  We don't have a
lot of chargers in this area, so I think all my charging will be at home or
work.  I do have J1772 capability with me though, so I do have options when
they show up.

The J1772 Adapter box seems well made and is working well.  It also appears
fairly weather-resistant.  I used it in a freezing rain earlier this week
with no issues.

Mike

 -Original Message-
 From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
 Behalf Of Mike Nickerson
 Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 12:39 AM
 To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
 Subject: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts
 
 I just learned two interesting facts about J1772 today.  My employer is
about
 to upgrade our 3 Level 1 outlets (120V/20A) to 2 dual-plug ChargePoint
 CT4000 stations.  This will increase our charging capability from Level 1
to
 7.2kW Level 2 and increase the number of charging cars to 4.  Great news
so
 far.  The Leaf owners will be ecstatic.
 
 The first thing I learned is that latest-technology EVSEs ONLY support
J1772.
 There is no support for 120V outlets in the station.  Unfortunately, we
have
 several early adopters that don't have J1772 ports.  These include my
 conversion, a Solectria Force with a Zivan charger, and a couple of
electric
 motorcycles.  Since the old outlets are being removed to put in the new
 stations, we have to do something.
 
 The second thing I learned is that I am suddenly WAY more interested in a
 J1772 adapter than I used to be!  Since my charger is dual-voltage, I at
least
 have the option of doing an adapter.  Some of the other vehicles will be
 much more difficult.
 
 Since I have a twistlock receptacle (NEMA L6-30P) under my gas flap, and
 already have 220V-twistlock and 110V-twistlock adapter cords, I'm looking
for
 a J1772 to twistlock adapter.  I don't think such a thing exists, so I
will
 probably have to make my own.  I don't really feel like converting my car
and
 all my pigtails to J1772-compatible.  Call me lazy.  And cheap.  I also
don't feel
 bad about connecting J1772 to my twistlock connector since it is rated for
 250V/30A.
 
 I've seen discussion on the list for Rush Doughterty's adapter box and/or
 bare J1772 socket.  That sounds like it could work and I could then wire
that
 to a female twistlock connector.
 
 Other thoughts on how to get J1772 support into a conversion?  My charger
is
 an Elcon 2000+, so I'm never going to get the benefit of the J1772.  I
will be
 drawing about 10A on the 220V line.
 
 Mike
 
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[Nathan Loofbourrow]

Good news, I suspect something here will meet your needs. They specialize
in J1772 adapter boxes. http://www.tucsonev.com/
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[tomw]

/I've seen discussion on the list for Rush Doughterty's adapter box and/or
bare J1772 socket.  That sounds like it could work and I could then wire
that to a female twistlock connector./

That's the usual method.  I used a 30A twistlock with Rush's adapter for a
couple years before I installed the J1772 behind the gas door. 



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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[Ing. Marco Gaxiola]

I would suggest you to change your NEMA L6-30P for a J1772 Inlet, you just
need to put the right resistor-diode values on the pilot  proximity leads
in order the EVSE can recognize the plug is connected and that's it. You'll
have access to all the public J1772 chargers all around your area. And in
case you need a charge other different than a standard J1772, You need that
adapter cable based on a J1772 PLUG on one end, and plug on the other (maybe
your NEMA L6-30P). Then, from this last plug, you may build the extra
adapters you require, even a 120V 15/20Amp plug can be used since you have
an universal input charger.

In fact you would only need to but a set of J1772 Plug  Inlet.
(http://www.tucsonev.com) I think this will give you a very easy way to
charge up at work and you won't even need to take any cables from trunk/back
since the cable and the Plug is already part from the new EVSEs being
installed at your place.

Another benefit you can have, In a future... is that once connected to a L2
charger you could add an extra onboard charged in parallel to actual so you
can take advantage of the 30A available there and have a double/triple
charge up time. Adding a simple sensing 120-240V circuit; would turn the
second charger off automatically when L1 connected.


Ing. Marco Gaxiola
Futuro Inteligente - CEO/Director
https://www.facebook.com/EvMarch  



-Mensaje original-
De: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] En nombre
de Mike Nickerson
Enviado el: miércoles, 15 de enero de 2014 12:39 a.m.
Para: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Asunto: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

I just learned two interesting facts about J1772 today.  My employer is
about to upgrade our 3 Level 1 outlets (120V/20A) to 2 dual-plug ChargePoint
CT4000 stations.  This will increase our charging capability from Level 1 to
7.2kW Level 2 and increase the number of charging cars to 4.  Great news so
far.  The Leaf owners will be ecstatic.

The first thing I learned is that latest-technology EVSEs ONLY support
J1772.  There is no support for 120V outlets in the station.  Unfortunately,
we have several early adopters that don't have J1772 ports.  These include
my conversion, a Solectria Force with a Zivan charger, and a couple of
electric motorcycles.  Since the old outlets are being removed to put in the
new stations, we have to do something.

The second thing I learned is that I am suddenly WAY more interested in a
J1772 adapter than I used to be!  Since my charger is dual-voltage, I at
least have the option of doing an adapter.  Some of the other vehicles will
be much more difficult.

Since I have a twistlock receptacle (NEMA L6-30P) under my gas flap, and
already have 220V-twistlock and 110V-twistlock adapter cords, I'm looking
for a J1772 to twistlock adapter.  I don't think such a thing exists, so I
will probably have to make my own.  I don't really feel like converting my
car and all my pigtails to J1772-compatible.  Call me lazy.  And cheap.  I
also don't feel bad about connecting J1772 to my twistlock connector since
it is rated for 250V/30A.

I've seen discussion on the list for Rush Doughterty's adapter box and/or
bare J1772 socket.  That sounds like it could work and I could then wire
that to a female twistlock connector.

Other thoughts on how to get J1772 support into a conversion?  My charger is
an Elcon 2000+, so I'm never going to get the benefit of the J1772.  I will
be drawing about 10A on the 220V line.

Mike

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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[Rush Dougherty]

Hi Mike,

You're right about the 110 support in Level II EVSE's. Chargepoint had one
in their early EVSE's, but I'm not sure if they still have them. And there
is no such animal as a J1772 to twistlock. Again this points out how little
the conversions were considered when the OEM's were making plans about EV's.

One thing that you can do is find a place for a J1772 inlet (I don't rem
your conversion well enough to suggest a place) and hard wire it up to the
charger. If you did that then you'd have two inlets to charge off of, and
that when you charged on one the other would be hot, a safety issue.

I'll email you off list with some prices.

Rush
www.TucsonEV.com


 -Original Message-
 From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
Behalf
 Of Mike Nickerson
 Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 12:39 AM
 To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
 Subject: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

 I just learned two interesting facts about J1772 today.  My employer is
about to
 upgrade our 3 Level 1 outlets (120V/20A) to 2 dual-plug ChargePoint
 CT4000 stations.  This will increase our charging capability from Level 1
to
 7.2kW Level 2 and increase the number of charging cars to 4.  Great news
so
 far.  The Leaf owners will be ecstatic.

 The first thing I learned is that latest-technology EVSEs ONLY support
J1772.
 There is no support for 120V outlets in the station.  Unfortunately, we
have
 several early adopters that don't have J1772 ports.  These include my
 conversion, a Solectria Force with a Zivan charger, and a couple of
electric
 motorcycles.  Since the old outlets are being removed to put in the new
 stations, we have to do something.

 The second thing I learned is that I am suddenly WAY more interested in a
 J1772 adapter than I used to be!  Since my charger is dual-voltage, I at
least
 have the option of doing an adapter.  Some of the other vehicles will be
much
 more difficult.

 Since I have a twistlock receptacle (NEMA L6-30P) under my gas flap, and
 already have 220V-twistlock and 110V-twistlock adapter cords, I'm looking
for a
 J1772 to twistlock adapter.  I don't think such a thing exists, so I will
probably
 have to make my own.  I don't really feel like converting my car and all
my
 pigtails to J1772-compatible.  Call me lazy.  And cheap.  I also don't
feel bad
 about connecting J1772 to my twistlock connector since it is rated for
 250V/30A.

 I've seen discussion on the list for Rush Doughterty's adapter box and/or
bare
 J1772 socket.  That sounds like it could work and I could then wire that
to a
 female twistlock connector.

 Other thoughts on how to get J1772 support into a conversion?  My charger
is
 an Elcon 2000+, so I'm never going to get the benefit of the J1772.  I
will be
 drawing about 10A on the 220V line.

 Mike

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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[John Lussmyer]

On Wed Jan 15 10:48:14 PST 2014 r...@ironandwood.org said:
One thing that you can do is find a place for a J1772 inlet (I don't rem
your conversion well enough to suggest a place) and hard wire it up to the
charger. If you did that then you'd have two inlets to charge off of, and
that when you charged on one the other would be hot, a safety issue.

Not if you do it right.  I have 2 charging inlets (120 and 240).  I use a 
pair of breakers with a mechanical interlock so only 1 can be ON at a time.



--

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http://john.casadelgato.com/Electric-Vehicles/1995-Ford-F-250

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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[EVDL Administrator]

On 15 Jan 2014 at 11:00, John Lussmyer wrote:

 Not if you do it right.  I have 2 charging inlets (120 and 240).  I use a
 pair of breakers with a mechanical interlock so only 1 can be ON at a time.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but why not use a 4-pin inlet, perhaps 
similar to a modern clothes dryer plug?  With the proper relays, connecting 
120 volts to neutral and one hot would activate the 120v charger and connect 
it to the battery; connecting 240 volts to neutral and the other hot would 
activate the 240v charger and connect IT to the battery.  There'd be no 
exposed live pins that way.  

Make two pigtail adapters or inlet cables, one for 240v and another for 
120v.  

Not as elegant as some kind of automatic switching, but it should work.  Or 
is this somehow impractical?  I'm just an electronics hacker (in the 
positive sense), not an engineer.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[John Lussmyer]

On Wed Jan 15 14:08:29 PST 2014 evp...@drmm.net said:
On 15 Jan 2014 at 11:00, John Lussmyer wrote:

 Not if you do it right.  I have 2 charging inlets (120 and 240).  I use a
 pair of breakers with a mechanical interlock so only 1 can be ON at a time.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but why not use a 4-pin inlet, perhaps
similar to a modern clothes dryer plug?  With the proper relays, connecting
120 volts to neutral and one hot would activate the 120v charger and connect
it to the battery; connecting 240 volts to neutral and the other hot would
activate the 240v charger and connect IT to the battery.  There'd be no
exposed live pins that way.

Oh it's quite doable.  But does NOT fit nicely in the gas filler areas of my 
truck... :-)
I don't like having extra connections hanging down to be messed with.


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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[Peter Gabrielsson]

My solution was to use a 4pin twist-lock connector, it's in parallel to the
J1772 socket. The pilot from the J1772 is connected to the neutral pin on
the twistlock through a diode and load resistor. In order to enable the
EVSE there has to be a dummy plug with a jumper from Neutral to GND in the
twist-lock.  That way no pins are exposed when the EVSE goes live.

Since the J1772 socket is is idiot proof I'm not really concerned that
there is live voltage on those pins when I connect to the twist-lock.



On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 2:08 PM, EVDL Administrator evp...@drmm.net wrote:

 On 15 Jan 2014 at 11:00, John Lussmyer wrote:

  Not if you do it right.  I have 2 charging inlets (120 and 240).  I
 use a
  pair of breakers with a mechanical interlock so only 1 can be ON at a
 time.

 Maybe I'm missing something here, but why not use a 4-pin inlet, perhaps
 similar to a modern clothes dryer plug?  With the proper relays, connecting
 120 volts to neutral and one hot would activate the 120v charger and
 connect
 it to the battery; connecting 240 volts to neutral and the other hot would
 activate the 240v charger and connect IT to the battery.  There'd be no
 exposed live pins that way.

 Make two pigtail adapters or inlet cables, one for 240v and another for
 120v.

 Not as elegant as some kind of automatic switching, but it should work.  Or
 is this somehow impractical?  I'm just an electronics hacker (in the
 positive sense), not an engineer.

 David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
 EVDL Administrator

 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
 EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
 Note: mail sent to evpost and etpost addresses will not
 reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my
 email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =


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Re: [EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[Mike Nickerson]

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[EVDL] J1772 Thoughts

[Mike Nickerson]

I just learned two interesting facts about J1772 today.  My employer is
about to upgrade our 3 Level 1 outlets (120V/20A) to 2 dual-plug ChargePoint
CT4000 stations.  This will increase our charging capability from Level 1 to
7.2kW Level 2 and increase the number of charging cars to 4.  Great news so
far.  The Leaf owners will be ecstatic.

The first thing I learned is that latest-technology EVSEs ONLY support
J1772.  There is no support for 120V outlets in the station.  Unfortunately,
we have several early adopters that don't have J1772 ports.  These include
my conversion, a Solectria Force with a Zivan charger, and a couple of
electric motorcycles.  Since the old outlets are being removed to put in the
new stations, we have to do something.

The second thing I learned is that I am suddenly WAY more interested in a
J1772 adapter than I used to be!  Since my charger is dual-voltage, I at
least have the option of doing an adapter.  Some of the other vehicles will
be much more difficult.

Since I have a twistlock receptacle (NEMA L6-30P) under my gas flap, and
already have 220V-twistlock and 110V-twistlock adapter cords, I'm looking
for a J1772 to twistlock adapter.  I don't think such a thing exists, so I
will probably have to make my own.  I don't really feel like converting my
car and all my pigtails to J1772-compatible.  Call me lazy.  And cheap.  I
also don't feel bad about connecting J1772 to my twistlock connector since
it is rated for 250V/30A.

I've seen discussion on the list for Rush Doughterty's adapter box and/or
bare J1772 socket.  That sounds like it could work and I could then wire
that to a female twistlock connector.

Other thoughts on how to get J1772 support into a conversion?  My charger is
an Elcon 2000+, so I'm never going to get the benefit of the J1772.  I will
be drawing about 10A on the 220V line.

Mike

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Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

[David Kerzel]

The wiki is wrong.  The drawing 4.4 and all other drawings in SAE J1772,
October 2012, shows switch S3 (proximity) as a normally closed switch.
David Kerzel
Modular EV Power LLC

-Original Message-
From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf
Of corbin dunn
Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 7:23 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

The Wikipedia wiki should be right:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J1772

corbin

On May 7, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Cor van de Water cwa...@proxim.com wrote:

 The advantage of a Wiki (if the author is responsive) that the info 
 can be corrected - it appears that has happened now. (at least the 
 decription, the picture may take a little more time)
 
 Cor van de Water
 Chief Scientist
 Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
 Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
 Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On 
 Behalf Of David Ladd
 Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 1:05 PM
 To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff
 
 You are correct, of course.  I just went down and ohm'd out a 
 Chargepoint station.  It reads 150 ohms, and goes up to 480 ohms when 
 the release button is pressed just like you said in your first email.  
 This is the same as the one I just bought, so I'll stop thinking about 
 this stuff now. :-)
 
 Annoying though, that the Open EVSE wiki site is just flat out incorrect
on this.  You'd think they would know how it worked :confused:
 
 david.
 
 
 From: Rush Dougherty r...@ironandwood.org
 To: 'David Ladd' david.l...@yahoo.com; 'Electric Vehicle Discussion 
 List' ev@lists.evdl.org
 Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2013 11:56 AM
 Subject: RE: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff
 
 
 I think another part of the confusion is in the link that you 
 provided in your first email. That is not the schematic that is in the
J1772 SAE Spec.
 The switch in the link, S3, is shown open.
 
 In the Schematic of the J1772 SAE Spec is it shown closed. So that it 
 reads
 150 ohms and will read 480 ohms when closed.
 
 From the J1772 SAE Spec -
 5.5 Digital Data Transfer-
 13. Switch S3 opens when the connector latch lever is actuated. This 
 opens the Proximity Circuit. The EV/PHEV should terminate charge 
 prior to connector disconnect to prevent connector contact arc 
 damage. Charge resumption after S3 closing is OEM specific.
 
 As I said in my previous post the switch itself can be configured to 
 be NO or NC when it is in its unpressed, or unactuated state. So that 
 when it is actuated it OPENS the circuit.
 
 Go measure the Chargepoint and tell us of your results. I think that 
 you'll just confirm what I've stated.
 
 Rush
 www.TucsonEV.com
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

[Rush Dougherty]

David is perfectly correct, I checked my version, Jan2010 and all the
schematic drawings that show the switch show it in a closed position.

I thought that the drawing on the wiki came from the standard and I didn't
actually verify it.

Upon checking with the wiki, it seems that the drawing was uploaded by
DavideAndrea. Original uploader was DavideAndrea at en.wikipedia

Hopefully he will correct it.

Thanks
Rush
www.TucsonEV.com

 -Original Message-
 From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
 Behalf Of David Kerzel
 Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 11:59 AM
 To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

 The wiki is wrong.  The drawing 4.4 and all other drawings in SAE J1772,
 October 2012, shows switch S3 (proximity) as a normally closed switch.
 David Kerzel
 Modular EV Power LLC

 -Original Message-
 From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
 Behalf Of corbin dunn
 Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 7:23 PM
 To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

 The Wikipedia wiki should be right:

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J1772

 corbin

 On May 7, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Cor van de Water cwa...@proxim.com wrote:

  The advantage of a Wiki (if the author is responsive) that the info
  can be corrected - it appears that has happened now. (at least the
  decription, the picture may take a little more time)
 
  Cor van de Water
  Chief Scientist
  Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
  Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
  Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
  Behalf Of David Ladd
  Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 1:05 PM
  To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'
  Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff
 
  You are correct, of course.  I just went down and ohm'd out a
  Chargepoint station.  It reads 150 ohms, and goes up to 480 ohms when
  the release button is pressed just like you said in your first email.
  This is the same as the one I just bought, so I'll stop thinking about
  this stuff now. :-)
 
  Annoying though, that the Open EVSE wiki site is just flat out
  incorrect
 on this.  You'd think they would know how it worked :confused:
 
  david.
 
  
  From: Rush Dougherty r...@ironandwood.org
  To: 'David Ladd' david.l...@yahoo.com; 'Electric Vehicle Discussion
  List' ev@lists.evdl.org
  Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2013 11:56 AM
  Subject: RE: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff
 
 
  I think another part of the confusion is in the link that you
  provided in your first email. That is not the schematic that is in
  the
 J1772 SAE Spec.
  The switch in the link, S3, is shown open.
 
  In the Schematic of the J1772 SAE Spec is it shown closed. So that it
  reads
  150 ohms and will read 480 ohms when closed.
 
  From the J1772 SAE Spec -
  5.5 Digital Data Transfer-
  13. Switch S3 opens when the connector latch lever is actuated. This
  opens the Proximity Circuit. The EV/PHEV should terminate charge
  prior to connector disconnect to prevent connector contact arc
  damage. Charge resumption after S3 closing is OEM specific.
 
  As I said in my previous post the switch itself can be configured to
  be NO or NC when it is in its unpressed, or unactuated state. So that
  when it is actuated it OPENS the circuit.
 
  Go measure the Chargepoint and tell us of your results. I think that
  you'll just confirm what I've stated.
 
  Rush
  www.TucsonEV.com
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 Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6309 - Release Date: 05/08/13


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Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

[Rush Dougherty]

You're correct Corbin.

The schematic graphic in the wiki is exactly the published schematic graphic
in the SAE J1772 Spec. The switches I've seen can all be wired either NO or
NC when the lever is not pressed. So it all comes down to how you wire the
switch.

If you wire it NC it should read 150 ohms. Then when you press down on the
lever it becomes NO and reads 480 Ohms

Rush
www.TucsonEV.com


 -Original Message-
 From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
 Behalf Of corbin dunn
 Sent: Wednesday, May 08, 2013 4:23 PM
 To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

 The Wikipedia wiki should be right:

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J1772

 corbin

 On May 7, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Cor van de Water cwa...@proxim.com wrote:

  The advantage of a Wiki (if the author is responsive) that the info
  can be corrected - it appears that has happened now. (at least the
  decription, the picture may take a little more time)
 
  Cor van de Water
  Chief Scientist
  Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
  Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
  Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
  Behalf Of David Ladd
  Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 1:05 PM
  To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'
  Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff
 
  You are correct, of course.  I just went down and ohm'd out a
  Chargepoint station.  It reads 150 ohms, and goes up to 480 ohms when
  the release button is pressed just like you said in your first email.
  This is the same as the one I just bought, so I'll stop thinking about
  this stuff now. :-)
 
  Annoying though, that the Open EVSE wiki site is just flat out incorrect
on
 this.  You'd think they would know how it worked :confused:
 
  david.
 
  
  From: Rush Dougherty r...@ironandwood.org
  To: 'David Ladd' david.l...@yahoo.com; 'Electric Vehicle Discussion
  List' ev@lists.evdl.org
  Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2013 11:56 AM
  Subject: RE: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff
 
 
  I think another part of the confusion is in the link that you
  provided in your first email. That is not the schematic that is in the
J1772
 SAE Spec.
  The switch in the link, S3, is shown open.
 
  In the Schematic of the J1772 SAE Spec is it shown closed. So that it
  reads
  150 ohms and will read 480 ohms when closed.
 
  From the J1772 SAE Spec -
  5.5 Digital Data Transfer-
  13. Switch S3 opens when the connector latch lever is actuated. This
  opens the Proximity Circuit. The EV/PHEV should terminate charge
  prior to connector disconnect to prevent connector contact arc
  damage. Charge resumption after S3 closing is OEM specific.
 
  As I said in my previous post the switch itself can be configured to
  be NO or NC when it is in its unpressed, or unactuated state. So that
  when it is actuated it OPENS the circuit.
 
  Go measure the Chargepoint and tell us of your results. I think that
  you'll just confirm what I've stated.
 
  Rush
  www.TucsonEV.com
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 Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6308 - Release Date: 05/08/13


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Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

[Cor van de Water]

The advantage of a Wiki (if the author is responsive) that the info can be 
corrected - it appears that has happened now. (at least the decription, the 
picture may take a little more time)

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626


-Original Message-
From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of 
David Ladd
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 1:05 PM
To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

You are correct, of course.  I just went down and ohm'd out a Chargepoint 
station.  It reads 150 ohms, and goes up to 480 ohms when the release button is 
pressed just like you said in your first email.  This is the same as the one I 
just bought, so I'll stop thinking about this stuff now. :-)

Annoying though, that the Open EVSE wiki site is just flat out incorrect on 
this.  You'd think they would know how it worked :confused:

david.


 From: Rush Dougherty r...@ironandwood.org
To: 'David Ladd' david.l...@yahoo.com; 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List' 
ev@lists.evdl.org 
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2013 11:56 AM
Subject: RE: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff
 

I think another part of the confusion is in the link that you provided in
your first email. That is not the schematic that is in the J1772 SAE Spec.
The switch in the link, S3, is shown open.

In the Schematic of the J1772 SAE Spec is it shown closed. So that it reads
150 ohms and will read 480 ohms when closed.

From the J1772 SAE Spec -
5.5 Digital Data Transfer-
13. Switch S3 opens when the connector latch lever is actuated. This opens
the Proximity Circuit. The EV/PHEV should terminate charge prior to
connector disconnect to prevent connector contact arc damage. Charge
resumption after S3 closing is OEM specific.

As I said in my previous post the switch itself can be configured to be NO
or NC when it is in its unpressed, or unactuated state. So that when it is
actuated it OPENS the circuit.

Go measure the Chargepoint and tell us of your results. I think that you'll
just confirm what I've stated.

Rush
www.TucsonEV.com
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[EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

[David Ladd]

I'm working on assembling a home EVSE out of old parts (EVI DS-50 and J1772 
plug from ebay).  I got the cord/plug yesterday, and I'm just not clear on what 
I should be seeing when putting a meter on the connector.

Measuring proximity to ground I get 150ohm.  When I press the switch, I get 
480ohm.  According to http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/J1772Basics it 
should be the other way around, 480ohm, then 150ohm when the switch is 
depressed.

Is my connector wired wrong?  I'm finding all kinds of conflicting advice on 
this when I google it.  I don't think it matters either way for me since I'm 
just charging a conversion with a dumb charger, but I'd like to have it set up 
in accordance to the spec.  Before trying to open up the connector I'd like to 
verify with the experts what I should be 'seeing' at the plug.

david.
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

[Jim M]

check mynissanleaf.com and search for open source evse.  You should be 
able to get what you need regarding J1772 implementation from one of the 
posts there.


Jim


--
From: David Ladd david.l...@yahoo.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 11:02 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@lists.evdl.org
Subject: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

I'm working on assembling a home EVSE out of old parts (EVI DS-50 and 
J1772 plug from ebay).  I got the cord/plug yesterday, and I'm just not 
clear on what I should be seeing when putting a meter on the connector.


Measuring proximity to ground I get 150ohm.  When I press the switch, I 
get 480ohm.  According to 
http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/J1772Basics it should be the other 
way around, 480ohm, then 150ohm when the switch is depressed.


Is my connector wired wrong?  I'm finding all kinds of conflicting advice 
on this when I google it.  I don't think it matters either way for me 
since I'm just charging a conversion with a dumb charger, but I'd like to 
have it set up in accordance to the spec.  Before trying to open up the 
connector I'd like to verify with the experts what I should be 'seeing' at 
the plug.


david.
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

[Rush Dougherty]

I'm not sure I'm an expert on the circuit, but I do sell the J1772 Plugs and
Inlets and actually helped the factory I buy mine from to implement the
Proximity circuit in the Plugs that they manufacture and I sell.

With the switch, in its' normal position, unpressed, you should read
150ohms. When it is pressed, to release the catch and also send a signal to
the onboard charger to stop charging, it should read 480 ohms.

Some of the confusion arises from the switch itself, it can be configured to
be either NO or NC in its' unpressed state. For this application it should
be NO in its' unpressed state.

Rush
www.TucsonEV.com




 -Original Message-
 From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
 Behalf Of David Ladd
 Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 8:03 AM
 To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
 Subject: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

 I'm working on assembling a home EVSE out of old parts (EVI DS-50 and
 J1772 plug from ebay).  I got the cord/plug yesterday, and I'm just not
clear
 on what I should be seeing when putting a meter on the connector.

 Measuring proximity to ground I get 150ohm.  When I press the switch, I
get
 480ohm.  According to http://code.google.com/p/open-
 evse/wiki/J1772Basics it should be the other way around, 480ohm, then
 150ohm when the switch is depressed.

 Is my connector wired wrong?  I'm finding all kinds of conflicting advice
on
 this when I google it.  I don't think it matters either way for me since
I'm just
 charging a conversion with a dumb charger, but I'd like to have it set up
in
 accordance to the spec.  Before trying to open up the connector I'd like
to
 verify with the experts what I should be 'seeing' at the plug.

 david.
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 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6287 - Release Date: 04/30/13



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Re: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff

[David Ladd]

You are correct, of course.  I just went down and ohm'd out a Chargepoint 
station.  It reads 150 ohms, and goes up to 480 ohms when the release button is 
pressed just like you said in your first email.  This is the same as the one I 
just bought, so I'll stop thinking about this stuff now. :-)

Annoying though, that the Open EVSE wiki site is just flat out incorrect on 
this.  You'd think they would know how it worked :confused:

david.


 From: Rush Dougherty r...@ironandwood.org
To: 'David Ladd' david.l...@yahoo.com; 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List' 
ev@lists.evdl.org 
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2013 11:56 AM
Subject: RE: [EVDL] J1772 proximity stuff
 

I think another part of the confusion is in the link that you provided in
your first email. That is not the schematic that is in the J1772 SAE Spec.
The switch in the link, S3, is shown open.

In the Schematic of the J1772 SAE Spec is it shown closed. So that it reads
150 ohms and will read 480 ohms when closed.

From the J1772 SAE Spec -
5.5 Digital Data Transfer-
13. Switch S3 opens when the connector latch lever is actuated. This opens
the Proximity Circuit. The EV/PHEV should terminate charge prior to
connector disconnect to prevent connector contact arc damage. Charge
resumption after S3 closing is OEM specific.

As I said in my previous post the switch itself can be configured to be NO
or NC when it is in its unpressed, or unactuated state. So that when it is
actuated it OPENS the circuit.

Go measure the Chargepoint and tell us of your results. I think that you'll
just confirm what I've stated.

Rush
www.TucsonEV.com
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 plugs / sockets. connectors group buy???

[corbin dunn]

On Feb 20, 2013, at 1:07 PM, Lawrence Winiarski lawrence_winiar...@yahoo.com 
wrote:

  
 
 I'm considering putting a J1772 socket on my car and I'm curious what the 
 best prices are.  

http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/J1772CableSources

That's most known sources..

corbin

 I'm not happy with these connectors
 being so expensive.   I really want 2 plugs and 2 sockets, but I don't want 
 to spend $500-600.   I'll just keep waiting for the price to
 go down.
 
 So I went to alibaba and I got this quote from Uchen technology (quantity 1 
 price)
 $90 for dostar 70 amp  j1772 plug with 1 meter pigtail  (the gun thingy)
 $73.50 for dosstar 70 amp j1772 socket with 1 meter pigtail (the part that 
 goes on the car)
 
 Anyway, that cut's the price down considerably to where I almost might do 
 it, but then shipping is ridiculous.  (i.e. about $250  for 2 pair)  
 So I just go back to waiting mode  (I'm very sure the price will keep 
 dropping)
 
 But maybe if enough people ordered, we could get a better price and better 
 shipping.
 
 Is there any interest in a group buy or has anyone organized one before or 
 know anything about the quality of the dostar stuff?
 
 
 Larry
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Re: [EVDL] J1772 for DS 50 EV 1 Station

[Cor van de Water]

The *cord* is only 30A but the plug is sold in other auctions as well
for $145 because it supports 70A.
No Level 2 that I know of supplies more than 40A BTW.

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626


-Original Message-
From: ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On
Behalf Of Cruisin
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 4:27 PM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Subject: Re: [EVDL] J1772 for DS 50 EV 1 Station

Its cheap because its only 30a and nobody wants it. I would suggest you
go
with the standard which is 75a with approvals.



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