Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths
Thanks for the tip on using cloves, I'm going to give it a try in my drawers of small items. H, have some tubs of wool scaps, may try them there too. For larger, ie; hanging, I've had success with the bags of cedar chips you can get at the pet store for small animal bedding. I take old pillow cases, sew a couple of channels in it, full it up and pin to a hanger. I shake it around a couple of times of year and change it out when the smell seems to be fading (which reminds me.). Never had a problem with cedar oil on the pillow case, so pretty sure none on the clothing. I have one in the bottom of my sock drawer, which also houses all the wool sock my mother has knit me. Seems to help. Flour moths; hates them! We had them once and had to clean out ALL the cupboards. Put down bay leaves (dried) in the back of each shelf and it seems to have kept them away. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Has anyone here beaded garments with real stones
I've done pearls and garnets. It was a renfaire costume (King) that saw a lot of use. We didn't dry clean though, we used Frebreeze on the inside, and occasional gentle water rinse. I think we did end up of using Dryel once. Everything held up just fine but then garnets are a dark color and I don't believe change very much. Some stones are heat treated to enchance color so you could have a problem there. If possible, can you test a couple? And I strongly agree with the previous advice for sewing these things on :). I never liked the nylon threads, had trouble with it knotting securely, so I used quilting thread and a good beeswas, then at least one overhand knot every 2-3 beads. It's been over 20 years on the original costume and never lost a stone. Please let us know how the citrine's work out, might need to use them sometime :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] a question about passementerie
My question is, what should I do, in future, to finish the ends of the braid so that they do not unravel? This first construction used Elmer's glue (it was what was to hand) and that is obviously the wrong answer if one ever plans on washing the garment. Many thanks, Jen Jen, If I can't bury the end in a seam, or cover it with something, I've used Fabri-tac and another craft glue (I think it was the pink label 'Aileen's' glue) to seal the ends. I went for labels on glues in the t-shirt section of the hobby store that said they were washable :). So far they seem to be holding up. Hope that helps. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns
A note on fitting corset muslins: A hint I got several years ago - don't remember from where - was to create two strips out of heavy material - old jeans will do in a pinch. Make them at least double thickness, and put a narrow bone of some sort along the edge fold. Then put in grommets about every inch. Make them longer than you think you'll need for any possible corset style you might ever make. These can then be basted into a muslin so you can lace it up properly to check the fit, without having to put in grommets, try to pin it to fit (not happening), or making slits that then rip out after one fitting. Once you have the fit, remove them and use them for the next corset muslin. These have made corset making much easier!! Sandy This is so useful, and it works well for other things that will be laced too, like 14th/15th century fitted gowns. Pinning stuff closed just doesn't give you a good impression of how it is working. I use an old gown opening that I cut out of a dress I was adjusting, from the days before I started doing hand sewn lacing holes. Claire I'm another who recommends this. I think I saw this hint here many many years ago and it has been a hand, and pin saver. My hands just couldn't grip the fabric tight enough anymore to get the fit required with a corset. It really takes no time to machine baste the strips on. Whoever originally posted about this; Thanks! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos
My photo set on Flickr is here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/22977...@n08/sets/72157606495042137/ Please feel free to share the link. Allison T. ** Oh wow! Just beautiful! Thanks so much for putting these on Flickr :)!! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Carved busks
Saw this at Christies and thought some folks here might be interested in seeing them: http://www.christies.com/LotFinder/lot_details.aspx?from=searchresultspos=7intObjectID=5294329sid=81e2b2ef-e60b-4c2f-9764-2cd79e81f850 They have an auction this month with several carved Welsh busks. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] [TheRenTailor] Image piracy - Anyone know who
http://cgi.ebay.com/Muslin-Bum-Roll-Bustle-Renaissance-Fair-Pirate-SCA-SALE_W0QQitemZ330311003999QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item330311003999_trksid=p3286.c0.m14_trkparms=72:1205|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50 Or go to ebay and search on 330311003999 She has taken mine down now and has taken someone else's image. I have contacted that company and am exchanging emails with Ebays security stuff. Sg A friend who does custom fantasy wedding dresses had a similar problem with someone who took one of the images from her website and used it on eBay for an auction for a custom gown the seller would be creating. When some of us emailed the seller asking about the similarities (she had cropped out the tag on the photo) she said that yes, she knew of my friends work and admired it so much she had posed her dress exactly the same for her photo. Yeah, right, right down to the drape and the shadows. My friend was able to get it removed by eBay, not sure what happened to the seller. Be sure and check the seller's completed auctions too. I don't think I saw any more pics from your website but I'm pretty sure I've seen the white corset and farthingale pic somewhere. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Organization
I used to have fabrics sorted by type, sub-sorted into projects on other shelves. I now have the majority of it in the clear plastic tubs. I have labels on the tubs but it still helps to be able to see the actual fabric, at least for me. I learned very fast not to get the larger size tubs as they can get HEAVY. Quick and fast storage are the big zip-lock bags. They do help keep everything together nicely but do no stack well. There is always a pile waiting to be sorted out and stored however :). My shelving is a hodgpodge which I hope to unify one day. The current workroom is in the basement and some space had been lost to needing to keep access to the water shut-off valve (it's an old house) and the stone room under the front porch (did I mention it was an old house :) ). Don't know what this room was used for originally. It is too cold and a bit damp to work in but we are in Kansas so this is our fail-safe tornado shelter :). Hubby built two low rolling platforms, one single-tub width, one double-tub width, to go in these spots. I can stack them pretty high and still easily roll out of the way for access, or to other places in the basement when I am reorganizing. Very handy. Catherine click your heels together three times ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume- and sewing-related Christmas gifts
Oh yeah, and a flying monkey :). I need to make him a little vest.. Catherine perk? Flying monkey? My SCA coat of arms is a winged monkey. Any clue where he came from? No idea about Catherine's, but I think mine came from here: http://www.officeplayground.com/flyingmonkey.html or possibly here: http://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm/terms/14980 But there's a better selection and better prices at Amazon at the moment. snip for length --Robin -- Not surprised Robin already had one of these :), and yes it is the same one as in her link. I think the hubby said he found it at Half-Price Bookstore. The cats still aren't sure what to do about the screaming. This item is currently under consideration too :): http://www.whatonearthcatalog.com/whatonearth/Item_Flying-Monkeys_CB1282_ps_srm.html Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume- and sewing-related Christmas gifts
Continuing a trend: PoF4 (which I received early) and Saxon brooches from Raymond's Quiet Press. Oh yeah, and a flying monkey :). I need to make him a little vest.. Catherine good witch, bad witch, I'm still the one with the flying monkeys ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Another source for PoF4
The Plimoth Plantation is offering the book for sale through their online shop. Price is 49.95 plus 8.95 shipping. I do not know if/how many they have on hand right now however. Catherine who had this on her Christmas list and is about to decide Christmas is coming wy early this year! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for bad examples)
Which makes me curious. What actual medical issues have people encountered that really _do_ mean someone can't wear a corset? I'm sure it does happen -- and it seems to me that having some idea of what really are the issues that cause problems might help dressmakers decide whether to (1) attempt to exercise more tactful persuasion, (2) devise some sort of work-around, or (3) do the best they can to make a nice looking garment without corsetry. Abdominal issues too. The corset may be on the torso but, especially if there is much of a point, it can effect lower issues as well. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Interestingly, the costume designer of JC Superstar is Yvonne Blake, I believe. She designed one of the BEST costume extravaganzas of the 70's: Three Musketeers ... She's done a lot of good work. I first noticed her name on Robin and Marian, which had far better costume for medieval style than most films I've seen before or since. Interestingly, I first saw that movie as a double feature with Nicholas and Alexandra -- another of Blake's works. I just looked her up on IMDB and was surprised to see just how many films she's done, and how broad a range: http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0086762/ --Robin Oooo, and she did Flesh and Blood! Another historic costume goody. I love the footsy-under-the-table scene :). Thanks for the link Robin. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery
18?? No wonder you need that big house :). I learned to sew on my grt-grandmother's treadle machine and my mothers dependable singer and have four of my own right now. Currently my main machine is a Bernina (basic model, not to many bells and whistles but I love it). The backup is my 30 yr old White. I also have a veteran Kenmore that a friend used for sewing canvas and left me when she moved. I use it for the heavy duty sewing I don't want to push the Bernina on (which isn't much). There is also an old singer in a cabinet that used to be the back-up machine but is now looking for a good home. I have never felt the need for a serger, not sure why, just never appealed to me. Ditto with an embroidery machine altho I can see where they could be very handy for some things if I was still sewing more commercially. Another question might be how many motors have we gone through on our machines :)? The White, which was my main machine during my heaviest sewing time, is on it's second and could probably do with a third. Catherine *** I have 18 sewing machines in my house; two on loan making a whopping 20. Four are treadles, two feather weights, and the earliest dates (that I can tell) from 1919 I may have earlier models but I cannot trace them. This also includes my one lone serger and my industrial machine. My main machine is my Singer Stylist c.1969 My favourite is my hand crank portable c.1920 that save my bacon back the year we had Hurricane Juan and we were without power for over a week and I had sewing to do; sad irons, a hand crank and oil lamp...somehow fitting in my c1870s house Sarah Paterson Great Village, NS Canada ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Standard reference books on embroidery history?
Pretty much everything that Jane said below :). I would add George W. Digby's Elizabethan Embroidery (Faber Faber, 1963) for a good broader perspective on blackwork and embroidery in the latter 16th C. Mamluk is a MUST! I don't have the titles in front of me but I think a couple of books by Kathleen Epstein/Staples touch on this too. Catherine At 01:43 PM 1/05/2008, you wrote: Ages ago I forwarded a question about blackwork to this list on behalf of a colleague. You folks were very helpful, so I'm coming back with an add-on query. My colleague has continued her work and is approaching it from a different angle now, and for background, she needs to bring herself up to speed on what's known about embroidery in late medieval and early modern Western Europe, especially England. She is especially interested in seeing how blackwork fits into that context. She asks for recommendations of good published sources that will give her a sense of what blackwork is and when it was done, based on specific examples (art, documents, and especially surviving artifacts). She needs sources she can cite in a formal paper, so Web sites will not do. Neither will how-to books that include a little historical background (e.g. that something was done in X century) but do not provide sources or evidence. She particularly needs definitions: What specific characteristics lead historians to class the needlework on a 1550 shirt (for example) in the category of blackwork style (as the term is understood), while another example of embroidery that happens to be black would not be considered blackwork? A source that explains the stitches, motifs, patterns, etc. that are routinely associated by historians with the term blackwork would be great. Such a beasty doesn't really exist. There isn't one or even two books that cover all this area. And not many articles either, not academic ones anyway. General History of European Embroidey at this time: Bridgeman, Harriet; and Drury, Elizabeth. (eds). ? ?Needlework, an Illustrated History?, (London: Paddington Press, 1978) - section on Great Briton Schuette, Marie and M?ller-Christensen, Sigrid. ?The Art of Embroidery? (London: Thames and Hudson, 1964) Blackwork History/Techniques Some of the best background about Blackwork comes from a how-to book: Gostelow, Mary. Blackwork. (New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1976) Geddes, Elisabeth, and Moyra McNeill. Blackwork Embroidery. (New York: Dover, 1976) I also have a handout which describes what I consider to be the three main types of blackwork during the Elizabethan period with examples and details for find original institutions hold the egs. See Embroidery for Clothing - Non-Counted Blackwork under Class Handouts on http://needleprayse.webcon.net.au/research/index.html (I realize that some people could argue that you can call almost anything monochrome blackwork if you stretch the definition far enough, but she's interested in what's traditionally assumed by the accepted definitions, not ways to revise it.) One thing to remember, most sources are heavily biased towards looking at early period Blackwork ie early Tudor under Henry VIII. You can find alot about that but much less about the later period stuff. Really there aren't any standard definitions of what constitutes blackwork. I am not asking anyone here to answer those questions for her ... even if you did, she'd still need published authorities she can cite in a formal paper. And she really needs to get up to speed on this on her own, and do her own reading. So all I'm bothering you folks for are recommendations for academic-quality reference books. She'll be getting them ILL, so cost and availability are not issues. Bonus points if you can also point her to a good overview source on known embroidery styles from, say, 1300-1600, based on surviving pieces, so she can get a sense of other known styles of this period and compare them with what she learns about blackwork. I think she does not have much of a sense of just how much is known about specific embroidery styles, and how many types of embroidery there were in this period. My website: Historical Needlework Resources - above period broken down by location, date and techniques. Some of the links to extant pieces may be broken as the museums etc keep changing their databases, but it will get her to the correct institution where she can search. The quickest way to find extant examples is by looking in the Period section, which is then broken down by location and technique. No need for anything beyond Europe or outside the 1300-1600 range. In relation to blackwork, I think that would be a mistake - look at the Mamluk embroidery such as the one on my site: http://medieval.webcon.net.au/loc_middle_east_mamluk.html and compare to the 16th C modelbuch patterns used a source by embroiderers in the 16th Century - almost identical. Thanks for all your help! --Robin If she
[h-cost] Ballet Co. looking for Wardrobe Director
Just in case anyone here would be interested. Their website is here: http://www.kcballet.org/ Title: Wardrobe Director Reports to: Production Manager Description KC Ballet seeks motivated individual for the position of Wardrobe Supervisor. KCB produces three repertory shows in addition to Nutcracker and numerous special events. Responsibilities include: strategic planning and organization of the Wardrobe Department, preparation of dressing areas, load-in and strike of costumes for assigned productions, and maintenance of costumes and wigs for all performances. Time management, organizational, and problem solving skills sought. Salary commensurate with experience. Benefit packages includes health, dental, 403B. Ideal candidate will have strong overall skills in construction, cutting draping, stitching and fittings. Prior experience with dance is required. Start date July, 1 2008. Interested candidates should email cover letter and resume to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please no phone calls until after May 6. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] a little OT - hunting a portrait
I love this portrait too :). The original is at Hampton court, or at least it was when I saw it there almost 23 years ago. It is almost a life-size painting. The entire outfit is red, as the version in Tudor Tailor is. It makes for a very unique contrast to the white shirt and blackwork embroidery. The only place I have seen a color copy of the portrait was on the cover of a costume armor book. Sorry I don't have the title, it is home packed in a box somewhere. Catherine ** Yes! That is exactly the right one! When I first saw him - probably 10 years ago, because he was the inspiration for the look of a blackworked shirt I entered in a Kingdom AS - I found him in color - the black and white of the shirt was gorgeous against the red suit. Thanks! AT least I know I'm not completely crazy! G Liadain -Original Message- You mean this one? http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownMan19.jpg An Unknown Man by an Unknown Artist, c.1548. (The Royal Collection) But in color? I know I've seen it in color, I just don't remember where. Give me until tomorrow, or hopefully someone else has it, or knows where a better version is. And I checked the Royal Collection, and doing a quick search did not find it there online. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS
This has been a great thread, so nice to know one is not alone in situations like this. I think one of the problems, especially in community theater, is that to often the costume designer is looked upon as sewing labor, not design talent. I started back doing a little theater a couple of years ago and found every production to be different. Communication is the key and I learned a lot every time, which meant the second time working with a particular director went a lot smoother :). I also learned not to take it to personally if I heard later through the grapevine that there was something specific they may have wanted that didn't get done, or done the way they might have preferred. Budget, and time, was often the critical crunch in these situations. I know I've been really lucky with most of the casts I've worked with too so I had fun. I'd probably do more except my hands just can't hold up anymore to the last minute push there always is to get everything done. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's wearing?
Well, it's not the dressmaker but the rack in the sewing room (sometimes affectionately known in our house as The Sweat Shop) is filling with pieces to be adapted for a show in January. One of the local community theaters is doing Gross Indecency: the 3 Trials of Oscar Wilde. Very limited budget so I am combing the local thrift stores for pieces that can be reworked to approximate the 1890s. Yes, this is the show I was looking for underwear for awhile back :), still working on that. Handwork is penny rug-style felt ornaments and, long-range, an embroidered linen coif. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your
Don't forget the little stuff: Needle pin thimble Are you sure this is going to all fit into one book :)? Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Interesting 1890s Group Photo
Penny, This is just fascinating, especially since I'm putting together costumes for an 1895 play :). Please keep us updated on your discoveries about this. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
My DD is currently disassembled and up on a shelf (in a bag) where it is a favorite cat napping spot for one of our feline kids. The DD in my head is currently planning out costumes for a local community theater production of Gross Indecency: The Three Trials of Oscar Wilde in January. I love a director who plans ahead for period pieces :). Budget is limited so we will do a lot of repurposing from thrift store finds and probably save the $$, and sewing time, for OW's wardrobe. That is assuming I can find enough union-suit type underwear for the second act. Handsewing is still my favorite to do but it is increasing limited by arthritis. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Union suits - was: What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
Beteena's good advice: I looked on ebay and they have union suits between $10 and $20. :) And Sharon's: Try Vermont Country Store. Maybe they can turn you on to some rejects/damaged ones that would otherwise not be sold. Thanks guys! I'm watching a couple on eBay and will checkout VCS. Part of the problem is I am looking for more summer weight than the long-john style. The production is in January however so I may be able to get the director to consider longer ones. (4 guys will be romping on-stage in these). I have found some offered by Dharma trading at a price that would be worth hemming/shortening, but they are out of stock until December. The joys of community theater budgets! I am also checking my local thrift stores regularly. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
I know you are not necessarily looking for info on the embroidery jackets Alex but, just in case anyone has missed this, the Plimoth Plantation has a project on to recreated an embroidered jacket. The Wardrobe Manager is blogging about the project here: http://plimoth.org/embroidery-blog/index.php?mode=viewidpost_id=8 It's been a lot of fun to follow and I hope to make one of the January sessions. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Anniversary Update
Just wanted to thank everyone again for their help with the 1957 resources. The 50th anniversary party was everything the In-Laws had wanted. My SiL prepped the priceless poster and it was over the guestbook where it got quite a lot of chuckles. The ring pillow I made from the 1957 dress was also a hit. There is now interest from the sisters-in-law of perhaps preserving the remaining scraps as sachets. Glad I didn't take the dress apart and use it for a costume years ago as my MiL had originally suggested I do :). Thanks again! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1957 Thanks
Thanks to everyone for their ideas and input, especially Juliana and Mary who called their own mothers! I had already been checking at the library, as most of you had suggested, but there are gaps in the files. I was also hoping to find information on costs of boutonnieres, invitations, etc.. At this point the SiL's get to go dig in their own branch library :). Costume content: part of the dress has now been remade into a ring pillow, with suitable embroidery, to be used for the blessing of their new anniversary rings. Part of the satin of the underdress is now a ribbon-style rose boutonniere for my father-in-law to wear. Thanks again! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Prices in 1957
Would anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things in 1957? I'm not looking for a current value but what something would have cost in 1957. Specifically a cocktail length wedding dress?? My in-laws are having their 50th annv. in 2 weeks and the kids want to prepare a card where the punchline is 50 years together, priceless. They are trying to find the cost of typical wedding items from this year for the rest of the bit. For some reason they thought I would know about the dress :). Thanks, Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: re:iced drinks
Sweet tea is popular in the midwest (Kansas City area), altho not automatically served in restaurants. My husband used to make very good sweet tea with a MrCoffee iced tea maker: http://www.mrcoffee.com/productmodels.aspx?categoryid=2 He would add about a half cup of sugar to the hopper with the tea bags so that it dissolved completely as the tea brewed. While not an iced tea expert I have to admit that this was really good iced tea. He's been using the same machine for years, but we are on our second set of pitchers :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bildindex is in English now!
This was brought up on another list. If you have never used this, you should. It is a fabulous website. www.bildindex.de http://www.bildindex.de/ Click on the British flag and then use the Expert Search...you could spend DAYS here! Sg (who has spent days there). Oh wow Thanks! There goes the rest of the month of May... Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Medieval embroidery
lots of fun embroidery discussion that I missed because I'm not online over the weekend snipped for length, sigh :): Monochrome embroidery is actually considerably older than the 1400s... Sue, any insights into embroidery meant to be seen from both sides, as on cuffs or collars? That's the real issue here -- how early that concept might apply. --Robin Blackwork is my thing. I taught it back at the Known World Art/Sci Symposium in Orlando where you taught the Gothic fitted gown a few years ago. It is more correctly known as monochrome embroidery and was mentioned by Chaucer in Canterbury Tales. Chaucer mentions her collar with blackwork inside and outside. I'm aware of this reference -- it comes up a lot in discussions of 14th c. embroidery -- and I always pictured something like blackwork when I heard it, as it is black silk embroidery on a white smock, described as being all around the collar. But I'm wondering if that's the right interpretation of the following line, which indicates that the embroidery is withinne and eek withoute. I can't think of a better way to read it, but smocks in this period were not designed to show outside the dress, and did not have necklines that could be turned outward -- that I know of -- to show the inside. Anyone have a better reading? --Robin Robin, If you are needing 14th C the best references I can think of are Chaucer and the Mamluk embroidery. There is a new article on Mamluk work by Kathleen Staples in the newest issue of Sampler and Antigue Needlework Quarterly (http://www.just-crossstitch.com/sanq.htm). I just got it this weekend but have not read it yet. If I see something that might help I will drop you a line. And unfortunately the best argument I can think of against what it looks like you are trying to find are the fashion elements themselves of this era, reversible chemise cuffs or necklines don't spring to mind. Perhaps finding documentation for elements that would showcase reversible embroidery is another path to try. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Theatrer vs Historic
from Sharon: Thoughts: -30 second costume changes. -$300 costume budget for the whole show-12 actors. -Director's vision-often more artistic than historically accurate, so you try and compromise. -Lack of a crew to make everything you envision. Sometimes it just comes down to not enough time. You put someone in something close, just so they can go onstage in something other than their own clothes. Bingo! Especially in local community theater, altho the available $$ are often much less. I've been pulled back into theater work the last year or so precisely because of my historic background. Fortunately I had directors who wanted to try for some historic accuracy, even if they had not the slightest idea of what it was :). Also fortunately I had a better perspective of theater work and quickly learned not to tear my hair out just because the stitching wouldn't pass historic muster. Ann W. mentioned Mel Gibson and The Patriot, how the film claimed to have done meticulous research, yet there were obvious (at least to us :) ), costuming compromises. I find over the years I am more tolerant of costuming fudges if the overall look is cohesive but this still bugs me. If historic accuracy is so important to them that they want to advertise it, then I think they need to care about those details a little more. They might be surprised at how many folks would care, something a lot of rennfaires seem to be forgetting. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: hand rolled hems
snip how to make it easier and faster. And I hit on something this weekend. As long as the finished part is longer than my forearm, I can pin the edge under my right elbow (I'm right-handed) on a table, and hold the unfinished part of the hem in my left hand, rolling the hem toward me with the left hand's fingers. This keeps the hem taut, while rolling at the same time. I can then use my right hand to stitch what the left hand is preparing. Make sure that the table-chair setup puts your elbow no lower than normal height, or you'll be bending your back, which is Not Good. This goes fast! (snip) Melanie / Lijsbet This is pretty much how a sewing clamp/bird works. It makes pretty much all hand sewing Much faster. I have two reproduction sewing birds. One stays clamped next to my sewing machine for handwork in the sewing room, the other travels with me, since I found out I can clamp it to the edge of my travel sewing box. I do about 1/3 of my sewing by hand, so this has really speeded things up for m. Melusine . I've seen those, and also wondered about the heavy/stiff pillows it looks like stitchers are using in some of the 17/18C paintings. A couple of examples: http://www.arthistory.cc/auth/velazquez/index.htm scroll down to 'The Needlewoman' Interior with a Mother by Willem van Mieris and The Letter Writer Surprised by Gabriel Metsu (both are on the http://www.wga.hu site ). Seems to be a very similar style of tall basket also used at this time for mending and/or sewing supplies. One of those pillows might work pretty well for me, it would be adjustable. When I try and pin what I am working on to the chair that is, naturally, the time the cat wants a lap :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Back from Costume Con
And ending with Don and me in our Goth-ic, already posted here. I probably missed some h-costumers in my sporadic IDs. Identify yourselves! More to come. --Robin I would have spotted Don a mile away but I don't think I would have recognized you in this ensemble, GFD or not :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Best styles for tall girls - OT
Being 5' 11'' myself, and having hit that height before most of my Jr. High peers, I have to agree that a priority is getting the fit right. For one thing, you are more comfortable, and will move better, when you know something fits. I don't know her personal style but I would also second the recommendations to keep it simple. She's tall, all her classmates know it so why try and disguise it. Give her a graceful line and maybe one fashion focus point and she will be the belle of the ball. Most of my family was tall and this was back when you couldn't find tall clothes for women. My mother sewed a lot of our clothes and I didn't really appreciate it until I was out on my own and having to buy most of my clothes. Especially nice now to be able to find tall jeans :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
If you answer these questions, please let me know your location and the app. year you remember these fashions were worn to public elementary through high school: 1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured 2. Girls' pants: When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school. Pants-suits, hiphuggers? 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed I went to high school in the late '60's, class of 1970 (just dated myself :) ). We lived in the greater Kansas City area (suburb on the Kansas side). I'm afraid I do not remember to much about boy's hair, altho some did have it a little shaggy. We didn't have anyone running around with a ruler but as a general rule skirts were not supposed to be to far above the knee. I remember some of the cheerleaders could get away with very short ones on game day. My mother made a lot of my clothes some hem length was her choice :). Naturally I rolled my waistlines :) :). What I do remember is pants for girls! We were not allowed to wear any all through my high school years and the seniors really started agitating for them. One of our arguments was that it was cold standing waiting for the bus :). To make a point, some of us wore maxi-skirts to school. Naturally, the year *after* I graduated they lifted the dress code and pretty much anything was fair game. I remember visiting a year later and it was a sea of denim! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Moda a firenze
Has anyone heard when these are coming? I pre-ordered, but seem to recall some people saying they had already received theirs? Sharon C. I think those who mentioned they had gotten their copies had actually gotten copies of the first printing. According to Ian Stevens of David Brown books, they are supposed to get their shipment on 1 April. Sounds like a bad day for something as important as this doesn't it? snip Wanda .. Actually, Michael Shamansky, Booksellers have already received the copies of the second edition. I received mine a couple of weeks ago. They are still offering free shipping until March 31. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Moda a Firenze has arrived!
Yup, my copy was finally delivered yesterday, exactly as promised. It has been a couple of months since I was able to peruse a friend's copy and boy, it is even better than I remembered. Happy costuming sigh :). I ordered my copy from Michael Shamansky Books and it was $90, with free shipping anywhere in the USA through March 31. Ordering info here: Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc P.O. Box 3904 Kingston, New York 12402 Telephone: 1-800-527-6775 (845 331 8519) Fax: 845-331-0852 Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Url: www.artbooks.com So when is the men's version coming out, I'm definitely not going to wait to order that one! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] The Tudors on Showtime
Since she said we could share this and I don't think I have seen it posted yet: OK, People -- I pulled some strings and got permission to give you all the secret VIP password so that you can watch the first 2 episodes of The Tudors online immediately. Meaning right this minute,Even before NEXT week's Yahoo streaming of the episodes. And even before VIP's get notified. Plus, the quality of the video should be better than regular streaming. Unfortunately, online viewing is only available in the U.S., The link won't work for anyone outside the country. Please alert your pals on other Costume and re-enactor and historical boards. Showime was only going to give out the link to subscribers who have signed up for VIP e-mails, but I persuaded them that MY peeps deserve a shot, too! go to http://www.sho.com/vip Type in the password: king This is the woman who has been very patiently getting an earful about the costuming from some historic costumers. It is an, err, interesting take on Henry :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: robin hood
You can get more info on the website: http://www.bbcamerica.com/ I can't comment on the story yet. I though the first episode was passable in a Robin Hood meets hip 21st century youth sort of way. The costumes are the usual mix of attempts at authenticity and modern fantasy. I'm not sure about the orange (stretch knit?) dress on the website, but Marian was in a lovely cream colored gothic fitted gown in the first episode. And they had Guy of Gisbourne in a black leather trenchcoat... I'll watch a couple more episodes to see how it goes. :) Dawn . You are a bit more generous than I was feeling :). Plot was kind of fun but the costumes jumping all over the place were a big distraction for me. You know you are in trouble with a show when the peasants look more authentic than the leads. And that trenchcoat! Looked like they are going for the Van Helsing look for Sir Guy. Sigh. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] More Moda a Firenze
Looks like there was a lot of interest in this reprint. I just had an update on my order with Michael Shamansky Booksellers (contact info below). They are offering free shipping on Moda a Firenze (anywhere in the USA) thru March 31, 2007. Their price is $90 and they are expecting within the next 1-2 weeks. I think he said they are getting theirs via airfreight. I could kick myself for not getting this when it first came out, the reprint was great news, but that is not making the wait any easier :). Catherine Contact info; Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc P.O. Box 3904 Kingston, New York 12402 Telephone: 1-800-527-6775 (845 331 8519) Fax: 845-331-0852 Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Url: www.artbooks.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: embroidery magazine
Hi, Maybe some of you would have the time to help me out. I find it a little difficult to find myself, and therefore i ask you. Country Bumpkins embroidery magazine Inspirations, is going to have an interwiev with me in their issue nr 55. They want me to send them 8-10 pictures of my work. Wich pictures do you think i should send them with the interwiev? Also for the later issue nr. 57 wich is going to be all about flowers, they wanted me to design an embroidered waistcoat for the readers to make and wear. This i told them i dont have time to do, but i thoaght about what if i gave them the pattern for the beautifull stomacher i made on the yellow stumpwork dress? Do you think readers would be interrested in this. They could not wear it, but they could frame it? If you have the time for these questions, i would be very greatfull. Many thanks Bjarne *** This is awesome Bjarne, congratulations! I love Inspirations and can't wait for the latest issue. One of the local fabrics store chains has started carrying it but I have to be sure to check for it regularly. Their print quality is beautiful and should do justice to your work. Only 8-10 pics? I don't know how you are going to whittle it down, I'd have problems eliminating even one :). The stomacher for the yellow stumpwork is beautiful, perhaps the readers could use it on the back of a vest? Otherwise I would think any of your patterns for the purses would fit the theme too. Thanks for continuing to be an inspiration, Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Polistampa - 'Moda a Firenze 1540-1580' Reprint
I think we are going to have a better way of getting this book. David Brown books contacted me because I suggested THEY carry it. That way they can do all the work of getting it, pricing it (looks like about $99.50 but don't quote me yet) and making it available. They speak English, they do mail order all the time; they take plastic. I've even known them to make a deal where you pay in installments! If there was ever a book that those who love the Italian Renaissance either in costuming or in history (or both). You NEED this book! Stay tuned to this Group for further developments! Regina Romsey Michael Shamansky will also be carrying it. He told me he has contracted for half the edition. Current price is $99.99 but he admits that could change depending on exchange rates and shipping but he will be trying to keep it as low as possible. Contact information for him is: Michael Shamansky, Bookseller Inc P.O. Box 3904 Kingston, New York 12402 Telephone: 1-800-527-6775 (845 331 8519) Fax: 845-331-0852 Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Url: www.artbooks.com Catherine who has really regretted not having gotten this book earlier and has a copy on order. Come on April!! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Seminar in the Kansas City Area
For those in the KC area that might be interested this weekend: http://www2.kumc.edu/itc/staff/rknight/cs.htm Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Questions re: Moda a Firenze
I was under the impression that Shramansky was sold out permanently; if this is not the case I may go ahead and put in a request with them as well. *somebody* (you know, *them*) said that both Michael Shramansky and David Brown/Oxbow were talking to the museum about a second printing. susan - Susan Farmer Shramansky definately gave me the impression that he was expecting to be able to get some more but the holidays were slowing things down. I have not heard from him for a couple of weeks however, hope to hear something next week on it. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Questions re: Moda a Firenze
snip The only place that I know of right now that has it for sale is Poison Pen Press, and last time I checked, they wanted 190.00 for it. Evidently, I got one of the last copies that Michael Shramansky had! snip susan - Susan Farmer Susan; when did you last talk to Michael? I ordered one about mid-December and while he was out, he was expecting another shipment from the Italian publishers after the holidays so I am on back order. Sure hope it makes it! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Christmas gift exchange
My h-costume santa went out of her own comfort zone to research, and hand-stitch, a medieval needlebook for me. And then threw in a couple of skeins of silk floss! Not to mention it arrived the day after I had mailed off my package, which was still a few days ahead of the recommended deadline :). Thank you Sarah Nucci! Happy Holidays everyone, Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: The Green Valley
Oh, LORD, this is JUST what I have wished and wished they would do, except of course that I wanted them to invite ME along. But I'm not finding it on US TV yet. PBS doesn't have a listing for it. Has anybody found it here south of the border? Lauren . No but I will definitely be keeping an eye out for it. Thanks for the heads-up Lorina! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] New Civil War program?
My mother, belatedly, informed me that a crew from the History Channel was filming at a local (Leavenworth, KS) museum this week. She has been involved with this museum for years and was onhand to help setup, find props, etc. Naturally (sigh) she could not remember the names of anyone working on the program (some local, some from Los Angeles) but thought it was about women who had fought in the Civil War. They were to be filming battle scenes at another site in Kansas this week. She did remember it was for the History Channel and I was wondering if it might be for their Civil War Classroom series. Anyone familiar with this? Now when she said History Channel I kind of cringed because I think we have all seen how hit and miss their authenticity can be. She was impressed with the woman she was working with however. The lady had brought her own box of period linens to use if neccessary, and questioned several of the background props, like a clock, to be sure they were appropriate for the period. How much of this will end up in the final cut is anyone's guess. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Bad historical costume movies
Three movies that illustrate how movie costumes aren't about actual history but rather modern ideas (whether those modern ideas are about modern or historical fashion) are _Brigadoon_, _Rob Roy_, and TFWNSNBU**. snip Interestingly, _Brigadoon_, for all its straight out of the 1950s women's clothing, actually manages to get it's Scottish men's clothing a lot more historically accurate than Mel They really did that Gibson's flick, despite the much hyped (and publicized) specially woven tartans and similar promotional copy efforts. snip Sharon **That Film Whose Name Shall Not Be Uttered -- that is, the one with Mel Gibson supposedly portraying William Wallace. That is what really bugs me, when a production claims to be historically accurate but so glaringly misses the mark. Also I have mellowed a bit with age and at times can grudgingly forgive a production that does not claim to be historically accurate. In part this is probably because I have also recently been exposed to some of the theatrical attitudes about period costuming. I helped costume a production of Moliere's The Miser this summer for one of our oldest community theaters. I knew we couldn't afford to be period (and in fact pushed it out about 100 years for pattern availability) so I was calling it period 'style'. The director still insisted on calling it period costumeing and we had several good natured arguments about the semantics of our chosen terminologies :). And another worst costume movie: the 1953 version of 'Knights of the Round Table'. H, another Robert Taylor movie. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: What do you do?
What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at? When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two? What is left then? Bjarne Lots of good advice here, not to much to add except that you are not alone and I think most of us have been where it sounds like you are at one time or another. I few things I learned: Don't burn any bridges/costumes, at least not yet :). Try something just for fun. I know I sometimes get so caught up in a complete project I don't have time to enjoy the little bits that are my favorite part to research and work out. I did this w/ some Le Pompe patterns for example. Small project just for fun, no deadline, work at my leisure. Go do some of the things you haven't been able to do because you have deadlines or events to go to. And while these down-times happen, if it goes on to long do get a check-up to be sure there is not a physical cause (I will refrain from getting on my thyroid hobby horse here :) ). Be well, Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Another Hancock's closing
Stephen Bergdahl wrote: The good news is that Hancock Fabrics at 7900 Florin Road in Sacramento CA has everything marked off at least 30%. The bad news is that the sale is because they are closing up the store. Julie wrote: The Hancock Fabrics in Bremerton, Washington (on Wheaton Way) is also closing, and also has everything currently at 30% off. The Hancock Fabrics near 85th and Greenwood in Seattle is also closing. I wonder what's going on? I've had fairly good luck finding nice wools at Hancock in the winter. Colleen === Chalk up another one in the Greater Kansas City area on the Missouri side. Not a bad area of town but it has had a few upheavels over the last several years from road construction. Sounds like they are consolidating. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: French and Spanish headdresses Re: SCA sumptuary laws Re:
lots of cool links snipped http://www.artnet.com/PDB/PublicLotDetails.aspx?lot_id=424319628page=1 Funny what you find.. this is just nifty so I'm popping it on the end here;) Michaela de Bruce == To many temptations for one morning Thanks Michaela :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fabric Resources
It looks like I will be helping a local community theater costume Moliere's The Miser. I've worked with this director once before, he would like a period look and respects my attempts to be as authentic as possible for the chosen era (18thC) That being said, since I will be relying on family members of the cast for some of the costume construction I will probably be resorting to some of Butterick's patterns (#4315 4317) to get these made. So, I would like to try to get the fabric as authentic as possible. My 'eye' however is more trained for 16th C and earlier. Does anyone have suggestions for a couple of books I could use to browse through to get a feel for fabrics and patterns for this era? Thanks, Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Fabric Resources
Thank you everyone for the references! I remember some discussion about the Dangerous Liasons book but hadn't noted it down at the time. We have a pretty good Interlibrary Loan system so I am going to give it a try first (altho your books are only one of the reasons I wish you still lived around here Sarah :) ). Onward to a new century! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Tudor jewellrey
Do you mean the Tudor Shoppe? website here; http://tudorshoppe.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNTStore_Code=TTS Catherine whose Tudor Tailor book arrived yesterday, wooo hooo! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] New MCT Book was Update on Henry VIII book
I'll be interested in knowing when people get their copies. I still don't have mine, which is apparently on the slow boat from England. --Robin == I just got an email notification from Amazon that my pre-ordered copy is on the way. At this rate it could beat my pre-ordered copy of Tudor Tailor Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Underwear, demystified
Kathy, Thanks so much for posting this! I'm still green with envy but looking forward to when/what you can publish. Let me know if you need a beta reader :). And regarding Myth #4, the blackwork that is purple; check with some of the historic dye folks. It is my understanding that some black dyes used for embroidery silks faded to various shades of purple, which would explain the varigation of color. And if they didn't fade, the iron used for the mordant caused them to rot, sometimes w/ parts of the ground fabric. Thanks again! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Babylon 5
I got to see one of the G'Kar costumes at the Seattle Science Fiction Museum last weekend. The costume is almost all created out of hot glue and bits and pieces. I was so bummed to hear that Andreas Katsulas passed away from inoperable lung cancer on 13 February. loved smoking with a passion that cannot be described, was diagnosed with inoperable lung cancer; he passed away a year later, in Los Angeles, California. He was 59. He is survived by his wife and two children. The day after his death, his Babylon 5 co-star Jerry Doyle devoted much of his daily radio talk show to Katsulas, sharing stories of their days working together on Babylon 5. Regina === Reminds me of when a friend got an upclose look at some of the BBC costumes and props for either Six Wives or Elizabeth R. She said there was a lot of gold painted hot glue! I guess the 10-foot rule applys to tv cameras as well as the stage :). Can't push the envelope quite that far at faire darn it. The Narn costumes were an amazing blend of fabrics, loved the Minbari robes too. I saw that we had lost Andreas last week, hits home right now as my father just had surgery for lung cancer (caught unbelievable early, excellent prognosis). There will never be another G'Kar. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: clothing for the reluctant husband
He now wants to make peoples eyes bleed. Of course, that's not really the same as being a peacock, but it's interesting. :) -Irmgart = The line we use around here for our local how-brightly/garish-can-I-dress Landsknecht/Byzantine is: Oh my god, he blinded my best horse! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 181
At least Simplicity's designer had something to work with besides Thin Air! * C'mon Susannobody works from thin air. Don't you watch Project Runway??? ;-) Actually, my husband does. I've watched precious little TV with this dissertation. Any Babylon 5 fans here? Anybody remember Garibaldi's monolog on why thin air?? Susan - you mean: Thin air? Why is it always thin air? Never fat air, chubby air, mostly-fit-could-stand-lose-a-few-pounds air? -- Garibaldi to a Supervisor in Babylon 5:Grey 17 is Missing Always one of my favorite characters on B5 :). Altho on Project Runway I think they are sometimes pulling things from an unmentionable place, not thin air :) :) :) Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Babylon 5
Belatedly sharing the reason I could pull that quote from, hrmmmp, 'thin air' :); http://www.cs.tut.fi/~albert/Quotes/B5-quotes.html Susan; it's fun to cruise for stress relief :). Costume content: besides the great characters and storyline, I've always thought this show was one of the better examples for using costuming to define characters, especially the different alien races. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Knitted gloves
I was drooling over a friends new book this weekend that had great pics of, if I remember correctly, 3 pairs of knitted gloves. One of the earliest pairs was red. He got it at a museum in Bavaria on a trip last fall so the text is in Germany. Haven't had a chance to search around and see if it is available outside the museum but here is the info I copied down: Textile Schatze aus Renaissance und Barock Bayerisches National Museum Birgitt Borkopp-Restle Bavarian National Museum Had some great pics of a 16/early 17C embroideryed shirt, lace examples, etc. as well Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Visit to Tuscany
A good friend of mine is going to Tuscany in April and the gift-ideas-for-Brits made me wonder if anyone has suggestions for small gifts she can take that Italians might appreciate? Also, any must-see costume or embroidery resources in this area that she can checkout for me :)? Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Livrustkammaren/Sture Shirts
I wish I knew. I only know that as a whole the entire set of scans is 29 megs. I wanted to make a PDF of them, but hubby, who actually knows how to do that, is down with a virus right now. So I did the best I could with what I had. 'sides, asking the computer demi god simple questions like this is taking ones' life into ones' hands... He has little patience for my fundamental queries. Ironic it is a virus that has him crashed on the couch at the moment. ;-) Sorry, I couldn't resist the bad joke. Anyone who wants to make a pdf of them, go right ahead. Kathy == Kathy, I was able to download but not open. I am more than willing to wait for hubby's recovery for a PDF file :). Please post again to let us know if/when this is available. And thanks again for sharing!!! Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. I had to delay from my original date of the 5th - I would be just coming down from my high right about now, had I gone when I was supposed to. But, life jumped up and got in the way... snip for length So, knowing that we have the time to go into dramatic detail, and wanting to maximise said time, I am trolling for additional questions to my own. This is also my first time doing something like this, so I am fairly sure I haven't thought of everything. snip Kathy = OHMYGOD! I am green with envy :). Any color pics would be great, references for colors will be fantastic. Pics of the embroidery w/ something to put it in scale would also be very much appreciated. How about pics of the reverse side as well? And best estimates on types of embroidery stitches used? Close-ups of the construction seams and how they are stitched would also be good. Enjoy the 'high' and thanks for being willing to share :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: bosoms
snip for length my def. on MoaP this is not (though loud) MoaP http://photobucket.com/albums/v314/Maestro01/PSClaudeandPetronella/?action=v iewcurrent=PC36.jpg It's when the bodice is cinched in such a way that the bosoms have no room but to pop out. http://www.printroom.com/ViewGalleryPhoto.asp?userid=jmstrangegallery_id=25 2009image_id=11 Though these are wenches, I have seen women suppose to be nobility and looking like tarts. http://photobucket.com/albums/v314/Maestro01/CommercialShoot/?action=viewcu rrent=Commercial95.jpg This isn't as bad as I have seen in the past. Now I have no problem MoaPs except that it has become the belief that this was the norm for women of that century. This is not saying that the blooming bosom wasn't seen but it wasn't common. De Sigh, I have to take responsibility for some of these, this is my home faire :). I think you are right though, in the business part of the rennfaire world, this is a *very* accepted look for any female in costume. It is expected by the majority of the patrons too. There is little tolerance for authentic costuming when what they want is 'St. Pauly Girl' both for serving the ale and wearing the crown. I just try and tell myself it is at least fairly close to 17th C :). That being said, this group of wenches actually do a pretty good job of staying away from TOAP and overflowing cups. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 18th C plates on eBay
This may have been mentioned already but just in case; http://cgi.ebay.com/1786-DIDEROT-LACE-MAKING-decorative-feathers-etc_W0QQitemZ6584496015QQcategoryZ29223QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Not quite my period but very interesting to look through anyway. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: What periods for these fabrics?
None of the linen is period at all. You can send it to me :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Favorite Christmas Movie
Scrooge, 1951 version w/ Alastair Sims and We're No Angels, from 1955. The latter just came out on DVD so I will be able to watch it this year without the horrible editing it usually receives :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Question about display...
Now, my questions are, am I correct in my understanding that vintage clothes should be displayed flat, and not to clean them (We've got the whole - no UV thing covered already)? And is there anything I'm not thinking about? Marc == My only experience with this is a small local museum but they regularly vacuum their costume pieces, which are stored flat in acid-free tissue and boxes. For display, they are mounted on padded maneguins or forms, occasionally laid across a bed or something like that. A lot of the choice on how to display depended on the condition of the garment. They try to rotate their displays several times a year but that depends on staff/volunteer availability. Good luck :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Holiday Gift exchange - question...clarification
I have someone who does a period I know absolutely nothing about, and now I'm trying to figure out where to seek help on making a good choice -- since I can't post my questions to the list! --Robin = Post privately to someone on the list who you know might know something about the period? Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: holiday idea
how much would I have to slip you to make sure that Bjarne is my gift exchange? === So how about if we *all* have Bjarne's name? And of course then he gets all of ours :)? Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: a holiday idea
Sounds like a fun idea Dawn :), please count me in. And I agree with some of the ideas being tossed around, keep it simple and costume related. How about an accessory or sewing notion/tool? Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Embroidered Coif from VA/ stitch question
As several folks have already mentioned, this gold braid is also called plait stitch and Jane Zimmerman has instructions for doing it in one of her books on Elizabethan embroidery. Leon Conrad also has a different idea on how to do this stitch. His website seems to be down right now ( http://www.lcdesigns.org/ ), and I can't remember if he ever posted instructions there but there was a two-part article on the stitch by him in Fine Lines (Historic Needlework Guild) last year. I've only had a chance to play with this stitch a little myself but I would recommend practicing before putting it on a coif :). Hope this helps, Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: THAT movie Elizabeth
I remember, at the time the movie came out, someone on this list posted how silly it was that Elizabeth wouldn't have known that her lover was married. (I forget his name -- sudden blank mind.) And of course, it was ridiculous. The whole movie was ridiculous. Gail Finke Ah, yes. Lord Robert Dudley (later created Earl of Leicester by Elizabeth), whose wedding to Amy Robsart Elizabeth attended. Of course she knew he was married. In a way, that was what made things better for Elizabeth; Robert could not marry her. Things changed after Amy died. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] == But I think he did secretly marry Elizabeth's cousin, Lettice Knollys. It was his last (third?) marriage. Did not make her very popular with the Queen but it didn't stop one of Lettice's children by her first marriage, Robert, Earl of Essex, from becoming one of the Queen's favorites, and later being beheaded by Elizabeth. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: At Long Last- the QE2!
Just lovely Karen! And I think your crown is a good choice in keeping with the portraits of QE you found. I have the site bookmarked for the cartridge pleating info, have a project this winter that will require it, thanks. Catherine Wooo Hooo Calontir :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: lacing and clothing superstitions
(2) It's unlucky for anyone to sew or mend clothing while someone is actually wearing it. But the person wearing the clothing can avert evil consequences by holding a piece of thread between their teeth while the sewing is going on. (Can't remember where I saw this, but it was relatively recent.) Good thing I had never heard of this, I've stitched up way to many pairs of tights while they were on the performers out at faire. Just to much trouble for them to disrobe everything down to what is essentially the bottom layer. Haven't stuck anyone, or lost a needle. yet :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: KWCS Update
For the non-SCA folks; this is an SCA sponsored Costume Symposium here in the states in October. While it is an SCA event, anyone interested in costuming is welcome to attend. Is this a replacement for, or in addition to the local costume event normally held in February? Dawn The February event is local (this year was the 20th). The one in October is 'Known World' and travels around the country with a different group sponsoring it each year. I think the continued succes of our local event helped get it started. And yes, the registration fee is for the whole event. If you can get there, the site has some fairly inexpensive accomodations available (dorm rooms). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: KWCS Update
As to someone else's question, although the kingdom calendar doesn't extend that far into the future, Calontir Clothier's Symposium is expected to be held in the beginning of February as usual. Some local people are already starting to produce new outfits for the walk through history, so I'd be extremely surprised if it wasn't happening. Catrijn . Yup, it is always on the first full weekend of February (says the originating autocrat :) ). We were a little worried about catching a snowstorm every year but have been pretty lucky. This last one was the 20th. Now watch, I just jinxed it for next year! Catherine/Liriel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] KWCS Update
I don't know if any of the autocrats are on this list but since I haven't seen this posted yet: The registration fee for KWC/RS has changed, prices have been lowered. Also, the feast has been canceled. Please check the website for updates: http://www.dunard.org/KnownWorldCostuming/Index.htm They also still have some openings for classes so if you have been thinking about volunteering, now would be a good time :). For the non-SCA folks; this is an SCA sponsored Costume Symposium here in the states in October. While it is an SCA event, anyone interested in costuming is welcome to attend. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Handkerchief Linen
I used it for a couple of 16th C shirts, machine sewed one, hand sewed the other. It was a dream to handsew as fingerpressing took quite easily. It doesn't wear as well as the heavier linens but both of the guys I made these for say it is very cool and comfortable to wear. I was using the handkerchief linen available on sewingcentral.com. Hope that helps, Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: costume critique/discussion website
If there was a place to put your worst creation, I would love to put this one. Jonica ROTFL! I think we all have some of these that we could drag out and get a good cathartic laugh from. Maybe designate one or two times a year for these, like around April Fool's Day, so folks know it is meant in fun? Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
