Re: [h-cost] Monster pannier.
Hi, Blanche Payne made a draft pattern of the pannier in her book History of Fashion If some of you saw the exhibition Fashioning Fashion they had a very intricated pannier pleated into the french shaped pannier, the pannier of Louisa Ulrika is excactly like this, only larger off cause. It is this pattern i have had blown up. I made it for a Dollfie doll and it worked very fine. I have baught extra wide krinoline steel, its almost an inch wide, and very stiff. When the time comes (two manny commissions to make first) i shall off cause make a website with the projekt. I plan to contact some castle museums, and ask if they are interrested to have it exhibitted for some periods, before it goes to Gammel Estrup, who i plan to donate it to. I make it in the meassures of a girl who is working at Gammel Estrup. I imagine it is going o look very nice when standing in the big dansing room there. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Kathy Hoover Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 7:07 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Monster pannier. At 09:02 AM 7/26/2011, you wrote: Now i am home and i have off cause tryed to meassure and its going to be about 2 meters wide at waist level, and (my god) 6 m. 80 cm. in cirkumference at the foot bone. I have ben curious about the size for a long time, but i had not dreamed it would be that monster big. I have fabric for it, and its going to be a future projekt, i hope perhaps next year. Bjarne, Are you engineering the undersupport yourself? I'll be very interested to learn what needs to be done to support something that large. Hope you have lots of pictures of all the stages. Kathy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions
Yes charlene, but you will learn eventually, be patiente. And by the way i could take one thread of the time out of a 5 meter skein, just use a lot of floorspace and hold your tongue in the center of your face :-) bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Paul and Charlene Sent: Friday, June 10, 2011 2:10 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions Bjarne, O.K. I have it now. You don't have to move the whole frame, just the circular part--still a pain. As Claudine suggested, I will clamp my frame to the table. Mine did not come with clamps but they are easy enough to find in a hardware store.. And it's floche #16 for the whitework and two strands of ordinary embroidery floss for the coloured work. I can just see that getting snagged in the needle! It will also be a chore getting the two strands separated from the skein. You must cut fairly short lengths to accomplish this. I shall give each a try. Many thanks for all the suggestions. Charlene Roberts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions
I managed without, but also thoaght about buying a coupple of screws to fasten the frame to the table, dont know the english name for such schrews. You could baste the superflous fabric together to make it easyer, i managed without, also because my fabric is very light and therefore is easy to fold together. I turn the frame every time it is nescesary, cant tambour backwords, so yes, this is also why the frame is made easy to turn. Unfortunately i dont recal what kind of dmc thread i have used, and i am on holliday in Portugal right now, but when i get back to Denmark, i shall tell you. I also found that tightly twisted threads are the best ones to use, there are manny kinds of crotcheting threads to use, the threads dmc makes for fine crocheting is ideal i think. I also had difficulties with the threads, because i wanted to use my silk floss threads, i can use these now, but i could not when i started, so you will experience that the better you get, the easyer you can use a variety of threads. You must be very patiente, takes a little time to learn. And if you have seen period tambour work, you will notice that it is very fine threads and very tiny stitches used. I used the medium sized needle, wich came with the hook. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Paul and Charlene Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2011 8:31 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions Bjarne, My tambour frame arrived from Lacis and that has brought up some more questions. I find it slippery and think I need to put something on the bottom of the wood stand to keep it from moving around when I am working. When you are working on a piece of fabric that is large when you are tamouring around the dress hem, do you pin or baste the rest of thefabric to keep it from getting in the way? Do you turn the frame when doing the flowers or do you just get used to tambouring in any direction without moving the frame? I tried experimenting with many different kinds of threads. I found it is important to have the right needle(I used the largest needle) size to prevent snaging the threads. I also found that tightly woven threads work best. My best attempts have been with sewing thread size 50. I would like to use a thread a bit thicker so that it shows up better. You said you used DMC threads. Could you tell me which size and the name of the DMCthread--there are so many? I tried #12 crochet cotton and that seemed to work somewhat ok. Thank you Bjarne. Charlene Roberts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions
I dont understand that you say it would be difficult to move the direction when it is screwed to the table, you can put the round frame into the holders in any position you like, without screwing it, the holders catches it without you have to schrew!'' Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Paul and Charlene Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 4:08 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions Bjarne, Thank you for answering my questions even though you are away on holidays. In regards to the frame moving on the table, screwing it down would make it most difficult to turn when necessary. I thought of perhaps glueing felt to the bottom and placing it on a table with a board covered in felt. That way it would not move as easily. That is really the least of my worries until I master the technique. I also had difficulties with the threads, because i wanted to use my silk floss threads Is that the stranded Eterna or the mini twist that you wish to try? And if you have seen period tambour work, you will notice that it is very fine threads and very tiny stitches used. Oh yes. I have a GREAT appreciation for period tambour work now that I have tried tambour. I am happy just to get a chain going without catching the fabric or the thread. Tiny stitches will come later--maybe!! I used the medium sized needle, wich came with the hook. I originally purchased my hook from Lacis which came with three needle sizes. I was told at the tambour course that I took that the needle in the Lacis tambour hook should not be sticking out as far and to drill the hole a bit deeper. I purchased another hook from the tambour teacher with the right depth but find that I cannot use the Lacis needles as they are not slim enough to fit into the opening. Thanks Bjarne. Look forward to hearing about your DMC threads after you return home. Charlene Roberts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions
Forgot one of your questions, sorry, Yes i wanted to use eterna stranded with 1 thread. I have used the smallest needle to tambour on a silk taffeta, and i didnt have any problems with that. I guess its wich feeling you have to it. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Paul and Charlene Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 4:08 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions Bjarne, Thank you for answering my questions even though you are away on holidays. In regards to the frame moving on the table, screwing it down would make it most difficult to turn when necessary. I thought of perhaps glueing felt to the bottom and placing it on a table with a board covered in felt. That way it would not move as easily. That is really the least of my worries until I master the technique. I also had difficulties with the threads, because i wanted to use my silk floss threads Is that the stranded Eterna or the mini twist that you wish to try? And if you have seen period tambour work, you will notice that it is very fine threads and very tiny stitches used. Oh yes. I have a GREAT appreciation for period tambour work now that I have tried tambour. I am happy just to get a chain going without catching the fabric or the thread. Tiny stitches will come later--maybe!! I used the medium sized needle, wich came with the hook. I originally purchased my hook from Lacis which came with three needle sizes. I was told at the tambour course that I took that the needle in the Lacis tambour hook should not be sticking out as far and to drill the hole a bit deeper. I purchased another hook from the tambour teacher with the right depth but find that I cannot use the Lacis needles as they are not slim enough to fit into the opening. Thanks Bjarne. Look forward to hearing about your DMC threads after you return home. Charlene Roberts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions
Hi Charlene, I just went down shopping in one of the embroidery shops here on Madeira, and i found out the thread. I use (for the whitework) DMC no. 16 it comes in 10 grammes skeins. For the regency dress i made i used the ordinary multicolloured strands, and i used 2 strands of thread. Hope this helps. Bjarne Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Paul and Charlene Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2011 8:31 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] tambour embroidery--more questions Bjarne, My tambour frame arrived from Lacis and that has brought up some more questions. I find it slippery and think I need to put something on the bottom of the wood stand to keep it from moving around when I am working. When you are working on a piece of fabric that is large when you are tamouring around the dress hem, do you pin or baste the rest of thefabric to keep it from getting in the way? Do you turn the frame when doing the flowers or do you just get used to tambouring in any direction without moving the frame? I tried experimenting with many different kinds of threads. I found it is important to have the right needle(I used the largest needle) size to prevent snaging the threads. I also found that tightly woven threads work best. My best attempts have been with sewing thread size 50. I would like to use a thread a bit thicker so that it shows up better. You said you used DMC threads. Could you tell me which size and the name of the DMCthread--there are so many? I tried #12 crochet cotton and that seemed to work somewhat ok. Thank you Bjarne. Charlene Roberts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] coifs
Thankyou Melanie, The majority of danish portraits shows coifs mostly embroidered with pearls, hats are seen, but rarely. Bjarne From: Melanie Schuessler Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 3:14 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] coifs Hi Bjarne, There are very few images of upper-class ladies wearing coifs, which is to say that they may have been more commonly worn at home. However, here's one from the 1560s: http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg and another from 1567: http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Theophila.jpg The triangle in the front is a forehead cloth worn with the point forward over the coif. Some people have found images that they think are forehead cloths worn under coifs or forehead cloths worn over coifs with the point backward. These are mostly on lower-class women. There are some extant forehead cloths if you're interested. Cheers, Melanie Schuessler On May 23, 2011, at 4:58 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: May i ask about the coifs. The coifs seen in Arnolds books and manny other places with blackwork are mostly as late as cirka 1600. How early did they start to use these? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] coifs
Dear Melanie, Yes the link is here: http://www.livinghistory.dk/ Its Dorothy Jones who made this with her friend Camilla Dahl. Its a little difficult to navigate there, but if you schroll down the list to the left, you will find an english translation at the bottom. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Melanie Schuessler Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 9:52 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] coifs Hi Bjarne, That's really interesting! Can you send links to some of those images? Melanie On May 24, 2011, at 2:01 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: Thankyou Melanie, The majority of danish portraits shows coifs mostly embroidered with pearls, hats are seen, but rarely. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] loose gown
I am still learning and studying loose gowns for the museum projekt. I love the loose gown in this film clip from The prince and the pauper: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMr5iS_51VA The coupple dansing right behind the prince of wales, the yellow gown with the short paned sleave. But i am afraid the period is two early for the projekt. By the way i think the costumes are very well made in this film, those were the hayday of costume moovies, “six wifes of henry VIII, and manny more. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] loose gown
Hello Kimiko and Dee, Manny thanks for your most informative responses, i am apreciating this very much. Yes Kimiko i am on facebook, you could try and friend me, would be very interrested to see the dutch pictures :-) BJARNE -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Kimiko Small Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 6:33 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] loose gown Oh, I see lots of nice, and some rather incorrect outfits in this movie clip. They've set the date of the movie in 1547, when Henry is old and about to die. His wife is obviously supposed to be Anne Boleyn (from the B on her necklace), who was killed by Henry's command in the 1536. The garments on the dancers range from Henrician to Elizabethan in styles. At least most of the women appear to have their heads mostly covered, and surprisingly in appropriate hoods of both English and French styles. The yellow loose gown is more Elizabethan with the puffed sleeves, about 1560s to early 70s in style. Loose gowns were worn all through that time period, what changed were the style of the sleeves, for the most part. Btw, are you on Facebook? If so, I can get you into an Elizabethan costuming group, where one of the members has recently posted a number of Dutch images that might be of help to you. Kimiko On May 23, 2011, at 3:23 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: I am still learning and studying loose gowns for the museum projekt. I love the loose gown in this film clip from The prince and the pauper: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMr5iS_51VA The coupple dansing right behind the prince of wales, the yellow gown with the short paned sleave. But i am afraid the period is two early for the projekt. By the way i think the costumes are very well made in this film, those were the hayday of costume moovies, “six wifes of henry VIII, and manny more. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] coifs
May i ask about the coifs. The coifs seen in Arnolds books and manny other places with blackwork are mostly as late as cirka 1600. How early did they start to use these? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] renaissance school projekt for the museum.
-Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Tania Gruning Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 9:43 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance school projekt for the museum. Hi Bjarne Do you need a model to wear the gown, I volunteer ;-p , I live in Farum. Tania I am making the costumes for those who are going to be teaching classes at Gammel Estrup, so i dont need any model Tania, but thanks for the offer.. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year
Hi Charlene, The reason i say it almost killed me to make that dress is because i had so narrow a time frame to finnish it. I had to painstakely sit and embroider every single day, also even when i got home from my real job and i was tired, and i had to go shopping and make the dinner. I had it exactly like you when i started to try and make tambour stitches and i was desperate because i could not do it either, but i continued and tryed and tryed and suddently i had the ritht twist to it. You must have a tambour frame, lacis has it you can see mine here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/forsidebillede.htm I also use my lacepillow table, wich is low and it fits excactly to my frame. You can make manny wonderfull things with tambour embroidery, i found out you can combine tambour with shadow work, i am making a fichu to a reenacter. The fabric i used for the regency dress is a cotton voille and its sheer and it helps that you can see trough the fabric as a beginner, its the same i use for the fichu. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/tambourering.htm I would say it took me about 10 days till i finally had the right twist to make tambour, you must remember i was desperate i had said yes to the projekt, so i had to! And it is much speedyer when you learn. Next time i am starting something new in tambour i want to try to embroider on tulle. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Paul and Charlene Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 4:45 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Bjarne, As always, your work is so amazing . the tambour embroidered dress that almost killed me I continue to struggle in my effort to learn to tambour. I took a course but that did not seem to help. I thought it was supposed to be fast but I have not found it to be fast. In fact, if I do manage to get a few stitches done, I usually move the wrong way and they all unravel before my eyes. How long did it take you to become so good at tambour? Do you have any tips for those of us struggling with this form of needlework? Why do you say that it almost killed you? Is it backbreaking leaning over the frame? Charlene Roberts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] renaissance school projekt for the museum.
I just found what i was looking for. The type of dress wich i am going to make for the museum is the loose gown from Germanische Nationalmuseum Nürnberg 1570-80 in Janet Arnolds book, with the kirtle under. That type of dress is seen soo often in danish portraits, and would be a fine example of danish renaissance dress. Would this type of dress have been worn with pair of bodies and a spanish farthingale? I already is very inspired to start, but i have proised myself to wait to my holliday in about 20 days, then i shall make some water collours. For the man i have thoaght about making a doublet, off cause and then some paned trunkhose - would that be right to match the loose gown? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year
Hi Genie, The regency dress was made of cotton voillé and embroidered with DMC cotton threads, no beads was used. It was tambour embroidered. The original dress, you can see here: http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=76 I was out at the museum several times to study, the original dress was made from cotton and the embroidery was silk. I tryed hard to tambour with my silk floss threads, but the thread snagged all the time, so i had to make it in cotton. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Genie Barrett Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 4:01 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Bjarn, I can't tell, did you use any beads? Is the fabric cotton or linen? Beautiful, as always. Genie On Fri, May 13, 2011 at 1:52 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews drews...@post12.tele.dk wrote: Thanks for all your welcomes. I am glad you accept me here again. Here is my webpage with the tambour embroidered dress that almost killed me :-) http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/empire.htm Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year
Forgot to mention that i had a lot of bad issues with the drawing of the flowers because number 2 motif had a fold at the exhibition, i could not see the whole motif. And i asked the museum for help, but i could not get help, even that it was another museum who wanted me to make it. Also it has become much more difficult to study at their collections. In a few years ago, i was always welcome to come out and examine their collections, now you have to write to them first, explain what it is you want to study and why, and then maybe, you are lucky to get an appointment. The lighting out there was so bad also, that i could not tell exactly the collours of the flowers, so i had a really high resolution picture wich i baught from the museum. I had to send the picture back, when i finnished, but i have copyed it on my computer. I regret now, that i didnt go more often to study when i could. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 8:00 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Hi Genie, The regency dress was made of cotton voillé and embroidered with DMC cotton threads, no beads was used. It was tambour embroidered. The original dress, you can see here: http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=76 I was out at the museum several times to study, the original dress was made from cotton and the embroidery was silk. I tryed hard to tambour with my silk floss threads, but the thread snagged all the time, so i had to make it in cotton. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Genie Barrett Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 4:01 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Bjarn, I can't tell, did you use any beads? Is the fabric cotton or linen? Beautiful, as always. Genie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year
I have joined Dragtpuljen some years ago, and i receive emails from them, but unfortunately i dont have the time to get to their meetings. But they are doing a wonderfull job for sure! I work full time besides my costume making, so my time is very limited. And regarding the research of danish costumes, (renaissance for instance) its very few who has researched this era, and therefore its difficult to find danish names for the different dress parts, thats the issue when you live in a country with few habbitants. Fortunately i know a coupple of people, Dorothy Jones and Camilla Dahl who makes a lot of reseearch. Also most of the inventory lists are written in german. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 8:25 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Bjarne: A truly wonderful job and yes, the dress isn't that easy to view completely. To be fair, the museum has cut down access because their funds have been cut nearly every year since I started doing research there -- about 15 years. I'm surprised they can stay open at all. Still... Have you considered joining Dragtpuljen? It could give you an in with the whole country's museum crowd. It's harder to refuse someone you had coffee with last month at a conference. They are very nice people, in my experience, and are very open with their members. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews [drews...@post12.tele.dk] Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 1:17 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Forgot to mention that i had a lot of bad issues with the drawing of the flowers because number 2 motif had a fold at the exhibition, i could not see the whole motif. And i asked the museum for help, but i could not get help, even that it was another museum who wanted me to make it. Also it has become much more difficult to study at their collections. In a few years ago, i was always welcome to come out and examine their collections, now you have to write to them first, explain what it is you want to study and why, and then maybe, you are lucky to get an appointment. The lighting out there was so bad also, that i could not tell exactly the collours of the flowers, so i had a really high resolution picture wich i baught from the museum. I had to send the picture back, when i finnished, but i have copyed it on my computer. I regret now, that i didnt go more often to study when i could. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 8:00 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Hi Genie, The regency dress was made of cotton voillé and embroidered with DMC cotton threads, no beads was used. It was tambour embroidered. The original dress, you can see here: http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=76 I was out at the museum several times to study, the original dress was made from cotton and the embroidery was silk. I tryed hard to tambour with my silk floss threads, but the thread snagged all the time, so i had to make it in cotton. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Genie Barrett Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 4:01 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year Bjarn, I can't tell, did you use any beads? Is the fabric cotton or linen? Beautiful, as always. Genie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] some questions about renaissance,
Hello the list, its long time since last. I have ben asked to make some renaissance costumes for a shool projekt at a danish castle. the teachers are going to be dressed up in renaissance costumes, a man and a woman. They work at a danish castle wich is a museum. I am going to start this projekt in july. In some danish inventory lists, wich all are written in german ( it was the language used then in Denmark) it is often mentioned with wide dresses and narrow dresses. My question is, could a narrow dress be the same as the english word “a kirtle” Its hopeless with danish study of danish renaissance costumes, because nobody knows the danish terms for different costumes (costume parts) No danish words for anything except the major things like ruffs, cuffs and the like. Another question i have for you is: wich fabric would you recomend to use when i make ruffs and cuffs? They should be able to wash them often, and i thoaght about maybe using a synthetic fabric wich will hold the shape, and dont need to be ironed, or perhaps to use silk organza, as this also is stiff and keeps the shape. Any suggestions and any help would be greatfull apreciated. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance,
Hello sharon and all who replied, Thankyou for your help, off cause i can imagine horsehair tape would be brilliant solution for this, i shall keep that in mind. I intend to make all things myself, and yes i shall post pictures. My webpage is not very big at the moment, i have issues finding time for it, and i deleted most of it this winter because it really needed updatings. Its terrible because the demand for my things is increasing, and i still only have two hands and a full time job to earn my living, and also i have difficulties to say no when somebody asks. Last summer almost killed me because i had accepted to make a regency for another museum who was going to have a big exhibition about the museum who was build as a summer residense in 1806. I thoaght it would be easy to make a regency, very simple and it happened that the curator wanted a dress like one in the danish National Museum. It was tambour embroidered all over the skirt I had to teach myself to tambour embroider, and boy it was hard. But suddently i had the right twist and pull to it, and i learned all summer for 4 months i embroidered every single day at least 3-4 hours, and all day when i was home. Even an embroidery course i had ben given as a gift, i had to tambour all the time to be ready for the opening. I did finish it for the opening and it was a very nice thing for me because the danish queen attended the opening, and i shaked her hand :-) Right now i am making a karnival dress for a danish lady who is going to Venice karnival. She pays me well and she also broaght with her fabric, wich alas is an upholstery fabric, but i try to make it as nice as possible. I still have 20 yards of a wonderfull Brunswick silk brokade, floral and very espensive, wich i am going to make a huge courtdress of, but there are unfortunately a lot of other things i have to make first. I have missed you all a lot, and i browsed trough the topics lately and found, you have become more wide spread in periods wich i think is wonderfull. Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Sharon Collier Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 5:54 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance, www.renaissancetailor.com has ruffs that can be easily washed. I believe they are made of linen with horsehair braid inside for stiffness. My friend has some and loves them. You might consider using them, or looking at the site for techniques, etc. Will you be posting pictures? Your work is always so beautiful. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 7:25 AM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance, Hello the list, its long time since last. I have ben asked to make some renaissance costumes for a shool projekt at a danish castle. the teachers are going to be dressed up in renaissance costumes, a man and a woman. They work at a danish castle wich is a museum. I am going to start this projekt in july. In some danish inventory lists, wich all are written in german ( it was the language used then in Denmark) it is often mentioned with wide dresses and narrow dresses. My question is, could a narrow dress be the same as the english word a kirtle Its hopeless with danish study of danish renaissance costumes, because nobody knows the danish terms for different costumes (costume parts) No danish words for anything except the major things like ruffs, cuffs and the like. Another question i have for you is: wich fabric would you recomend to use when i make ruffs and cuffs? They should be able to wash them often, and i thoaght about maybe using a synthetic fabric wich will hold the shape, and dont need to be ironed, or perhaps to use silk organza, as this also is stiff and keeps the shape. Any suggestions and any help would be greatfull apreciated. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance,
Hello Kimiko, I have fortunately a lot of danish portraits to study but i think its nice to read some written documents also. I have free hands to give some suggestions, i think for the man suit i want to make the elizabethan white and red gentleman from Tudor tailor wich i think is very elegant. For the lady i am going to make a spanish farthingale, but how the dress is going to be like, i am still thinking. I plan to make some water colloured fashion drawings in my summer vacation, i am travelling to Madeira june 6th for 14 days. I really am looking forwards to finally make some renaissance, its so nice to try something new. Thankyou very much for your help Kimiko... Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Kimiko Small Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 6:05 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance, A kirtle is more the word for an underdress, with gown for the overdress. Confusingly kirtle, when used as a half-kirtle, can also mean a petticoat or underskirt without a body garment attached. Wide and narrow as terms suggest to me that some garments may have been made with some sort of farthingale (hoop skirt) (wide), or without some form of hoop skirt. Do you have any images to work from, or is it simply written documents? As to the ruffs, using an organza would be the easier way to minimize work later as it does have the spring needed - the neckband can still be in a soft linen for comfort. I also know folks using a monofiliment fishing line to the edges of a ruff to give that spring - in which case a nice light linen works nicely. In the period they starched it, but from firsthand experience I know that starch is a pain to keep up with, which non-historical costumers may not want to deal with. And welcome back Bjarne. :-) Kimiko On May 13, 2011, at 7:25 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: In some danish inventory lists, wich all are written in german ( it was the language used then in Denmark) it is often mentioned with wide dresses and narrow dresses. My question is, could a narrow dress be the same as the english word “a kirtle” Its hopeless with danish study of danish renaissance costumes, because nobody knows the danish terms for different costumes (costume parts) No danish words for anything except the major things like ruffs, cuffs and the like. Another question i have for you is: wich fabric would you recomend to use when i make ruffs and cuffs? They should be able to wash them often, and i thoaght about maybe using a synthetic fabric wich will hold the shape, and dont need to be ironed, or perhaps to use silk organza, as this also is stiff and keeps the shape. Any suggestions and any help would be greatfull apreciated. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] the tambour embroidered regency dress i made last year
Thanks for all your welcomes. I am glad you accept me here again. Here is my webpage with the tambour embroidered dress that almost killed me :-) http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/empire.htm Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance,
Hi, The inventory list i have read is from Queen Anna Cathrine of Braunsweig who married the king Christian IV of Denmark. She died in childbirth in the beginning of 1600. Both wide and narrow dresses are mentioned as well as farthingales with rolls. I think the period they would like me to make for the museum would be cirka 1560 - 80 Bjarne -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Chris Laning Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 10:20 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance, In some danish inventory lists, which all are written in german (it was the language used then in Denmark) it is often mentioned with wide dresses and narrow dresses. If by renaissance you mean 16th century, then my first thought would be that a wide dress is made to go over a farthingale and a narrow dress is not (and would be worn with only petticoats). Welcome back! 0 Chris Laning | clan...@igc.org + Davis, California http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?
Dear Fran, It is not going to be published for all, only you have to subscribe to Your Wardrobe Unlock'd to get the article, thats the idea with her website. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 8:23 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic? Did she figure out how to wrap the turbans by experiment, by examining originals, or by using some period millinery manual? When will the articles be published, I'd like to read them? Thanks, Fran [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication Your Wardrobe Unlock'd about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge turban, and it looked great I would like to add that many Regency era turbans were evidently not extemporaneously wrapped on the head, but were instead built on a foundation.? We know Dolley Madison got turbans from France, for example, and the Hampshire County Museums has one in their collection, pictured in Hats by Fiona Clark.? Of course, one still had to wrap the fabric before attaching it to the foundation. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 9:37 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?] Oh, I am glad to hear there is more coming from the YWU article. I read it last night and didn't see anywhere to find instructions on how to wrap it. Sg Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:31:13 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?] Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication Your Wardrobe Unlock'd about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a photo. I hope somebody did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/ I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures I can think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a turban is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, two layers and can be very large (for boys it's just the under turban; I don't know what it's really called). They also tend to be bulky towards the front of the head, where the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know anything about Arab turbans, but if you see a larger turban with a lot of forward bulk, you're probably looking at a Sikh (a steel bangle and certain styles of facial hair would also be a giveaway). Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums events
Isnt there also the Historical Museum in Amsterdam? I think i remember someone from h-costume posting pictures from the costumes exhibited there, about a year ago, was it Deredere? There was pictures of a gorgeous 1780 dress embroidered ! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Chris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 6:29 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums events On Jul 26, 2008, at 4:05 PM, monica spence wrote: The Rijksmuseum (Rembrandt Museum) and Anne Frank's house are both must-see places in Amseredam. Also-- anyplace that sells chocolate and baked goods. However, beware of the damage to your waistline! Is the Rijksmuseum open again yet? Most of it (like 90%) was shut down for renovation when I was there in March. All they have open is one wing with a highlights of the collection exhibit, which I didn't bother with because I want to go back sometime when I can see more. OChris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Davis, California + http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood?
I have today made a mock up of the head dress from 1600 and i found pictures wich i was allowed to use from an effigy figure at the Ribe Cathedral in Denmark. This is the type of head dress wich was found in a grave recently! I suppose the round shape you can see under the head dress must be a hair pad or something? Here you can see the pictures: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] modest
Is there an english term of a piece of clothing called a modest? In a danish inventory there is the term of modester in plural, have never heard that word before. Its inventories from 1720 and 1730. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Renaissance coif or hood?
First i am not sertain if the word is coif or hood, i am talking about the head dress worn for the lady i am going to recreate: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br2.htm What i can't figure out is the linnen part that peaks out from the black pearl coif. To me i cant figure out how it can bend out in the oval sides without bending in again at the ears, is it the painter who made something wrong or how on earth is it done? Can someone explain to me please? I have ben so fortunate that a grave found recently found in Hørby Kirke from 1600 had a coif excactly like this i am going to make, unfortunately i am not allowed to publish it yeat, because they want it to be published at the website called: http://www.livinghistory.dk/- I have just printed out the pattern in the right size and i guess i am going to use the same pattern for the under linnen part, only slightly bigger. I am very excited to start this projekt, and i must go hunting for pearls on monday for the embellishment. I have planned to use some of my gold pearl purl also. It is a lady named Ester Grølsted, who made the pattern draft after original wich was red silk. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] off topic
I ordered some gold braids from Watts in London via their webpage. When i clicked the braid i wanted, they had 2 to choose from, i didnt notice that it was the other one that popped up, so i ordered 10 meters of a narrow scalloped braid, it should have ben the wider one. When i clicked the other one, vise versa happened. I complainted about it when i received the 2 braids i ordered, i should have had a wide scalloped one, but got a narrow, and vise versa. All they said, back to me, that they were sorry and thankyou for notice it to us. Dont you think they should have sended me some new ones, of the ones i thoaght i had ordered? I dont have time to send back to them and waite for a new posting.. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society
Most gennerous of you Sg, Thankyou soo much! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 11:04 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society A wedding dress worn by Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766 in Costume, London, new series, #1, 1967, pp 17 - 21. Bjarne this comes from here: Someone posted this source awhile back...can't remember who... http://www.ravensgard.org/gerekr/arnold.html Sg From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 22:06:57 +0200 Subject: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society Can anybody help me with the informations about an article by Janet Arnold. She wrote in Costume about the wedding dress of Sophia Magdalena in 1766. I only have a photocopyed page of the article with the pattern cut. What i need is the year of the publikation. Thankyou... Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] CREPINER
Hi all, Thanks a lot for all your suggestions and thoaghts about the word CREPINER. A friend in Sweden wich has almost same language as danish, told me that they have the same word, and that it meens ruffles. Either gathered or pleated ruffles. So with a pannier, it would be ruffles at the bottom perhaps. I just wanted to tell you, that the word was found. Thankyou! Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] crepines?
A friend found a box in an archive, containing letters and bills. One of the bills was for a young girl in 1748, she had boaght caps, stockings, gloves, piano lessons and linnens for embroidery. There was also a pannier with matching crepiner in danish. Is there a similar word in french, german for crepines? Could it be skirts, to cover the panniers with? Rolls? I have never seen this word before, and wondered if any have heard anything similar. I know it is difficult because its danish, but crepins dont sound danish to me att all... Thanks Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] crepines?
Sorry for the confusion, the word is CREPINER and when the word ends with ER it is multiple. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 4:34 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] crepines? Is it crepins, crepin or crepine? You wrote it three different ways... It could be French, but I'm not sure exactly what it means (yet!). On Fri, Jul 4, 2008 at 9:44 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A friend found a box in an archive, containing letters and bills. One of the bills was for a young girl in 1748, she had boaght caps, stockings, gloves, piano lessons and linnens for embroidery. There was also a pannier with matching crepiner in danish. Is there a similar word in french, german for crepines? Could it be skirts, to cover the panniers with? Rolls? I have never seen this word before, and wondered if any have heard anything similar. I know it is difficult because its danish, but crepins dont sound danish to me att all... Thanks Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] preserving patterns
I always trace the thin patterns to brown wrapping paper, it holds a lot better and it wont fade away so easy. All the patterns i use frequently are made of brown wrapping paper. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 4:11 PM Subject: [h-cost] preserving patterns I have a multi-size tissue pattern that I would like to use several times, and make in more than one size. What is your favorite method of preserving patterns to keep them intact? In the past, I have fused the tissue to muslin, but those were *very* simple children's play clothes, and eyeballing the cutting line for a smaller size was simple. Suggestions? Denise ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] silk zibeline
Can somebody enlighten me with what is silk zibeline? Is it the same as duchesse silk satin? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] London public library
What about Waterstones? I got a lot there last time i were in London. As i recall it its in a street next to Oxford Street? I got both costume related and embroidery related books there, and i thoaght they had a nice collection. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 11:10 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] London public library At 09:16 14/06/2008, you wrote: Hi, I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to some library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read about at amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a lot of things, maybe some books that are hard to get or some second hand costume books (any good shops?). I just want to see the books to make myself a list what to buy later, as I am a poor student:-DD Is there any large public library or a library where most of the costume books are to be found? Thanks for any tips, Zuzana Although I live in London I have absolutely no idea where to find second hand books, except on line. The only book shop that sells costume books for certain is R.D. Franks, (http://www.rdfranks.co.uk/) and they are a specialist fashion trade book shop, so there is a lot of modern tailoring/fashion student orientated content. (I was disappointed when I went last.) As for public libraries, again, I have absolutely no idea - each area of London has several local libraries, and you may or may not be lucky. Sorry not to be more helpful. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] London public library
If you have the time, you could take the train down to Bath. The museum of Costume, Bath has a large museum shop, packed with all kinds of costume related books. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 10:16 AM Subject: [h-cost] London public library Hi, I'll be visiting London in August and I hope I'll finally get to some library or bookshop to look at all the books I've only read about at amazon or on this list. I don't really expect to buy a lot of things, maybe some books that are hard to get or some second hand costume books (any good shops?). I just want to see the books to make myself a list what to buy later, as I am a poor student:-DD Is there any large public library or a library where most of the costume books are to be found? Thanks for any tips, Zuzana ___ Sartor...custom-made costumes www.sartor.cz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Banyan
I have finished my Banyan. For those who would like to see it, its here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/Banyan.htm Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Banyan
Hi, Yes i was considering one of these you mention, but i thoght this one was a little humouristic two. Besides embroidering a cap would be fun, but as i am only going to use this once, i wouldnt make two much of it. I am using it in September at the aniversary of Gustavs Skål. We are going to be gathered a whole weekend, with breakfast two, and this is where i am going to use it. Bjarne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 7:04 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Banyan In a message dated 6/1/2008 4:57:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/Banyan.htm Just lovely, as usual. I hope you will also make one of those caps whose pattern looks like 4 shapes that resemble and irona sort of pointed arch shape. You sew them together and cover the point at the top with a tassel, then turn the bottom up like a cuff. You can wear that with your banyan open and flowing, your shirt and breeches showing underneath. **Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch Cooking with Tyler Florence on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?NCID=aolfod000302) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Silk Ribbon
http://www.londonbeadco.co.uk/ Bjarne - Original Message - From: Serena Dyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 1:27 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Ribbon Can anybody recommend a supplier of silk ribbons from the UK? Thanks Serena ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] I want to see the Louis Carrogis watercolors
Try this! http://tiny.cc/PLZOh Bjarne - Original Message - From: Martha Kelly [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 8:15 PM Subject: [h-cost] I want to see the Louis Carrogis watercolors I'd love to see these watercolors, but the link doesn't work for me and when I get to the web site all the error messages are in French. Can someone help me? Martha Louis Carrogis made these water colours pictures of the french nobility: http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchT.aspx?Round=2Total=500FP=17986705E =2K1KTS5GS7Q6SID=2K1KTS5GS7Q6New=TPage=1 Mind you there are more than 500 prints!!! Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Questions on Louis XV (1760s) Costuming
Dear Sharon Henderson. Thanks for your post. This is not anything about undergarments, but i am sure these wil be a big inspiration to you, they are to me! Louis Carrogis made these water colours pictures of the french nobility: http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchT.aspx?Round=2Total=500FP=17986705E=2K1KTS5GS7Q6SID=2K1KTS5GS7Q6New=TPage=1 Mind you there are more than 500 prints!!! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Sharon Henderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 5:54 PM Subject: [h-cost] Questions on Louis XV (1760s) Costuming Good morning all, Can anyone point me toward some historically-accurate web links or resources for clothing from the 1760s in France, during the reign of Louis XV? Some friends are planning a large-group cosplay gathering for the anime version of Le Chevalier D'Eon, and while the costumes are for the most part only glancingly period, I'm going to be the obsessive one. *grins* I want to especially get the undergarments and layers correct, and fight as much of a good fight with the two gowns I've chosen in order to get them as close as possible to accurate--while still giving the look from the anime production. Right now I'm having little luck finding good corset and underpinnings links and/or books, and finding proper fabrics that would give the richness of a court costume to what are amazingly plain outfits in the anime has proven a challenge. If anyone's interested in knowing, I'm doing Mme. de Pompadour and making the outfit for a friend portraying King Louis. :) I would welcome any advice, assistance, links, etc. Bjarne, I've already sent the link for your site to the group--and their reactions to the gorgeousness of your work was everything anyone could hope for. *grins* They are in awe and wonder of you, as am I... :) Cheers, Sharon/Jasta ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lace ID Help
Excactly what i would say, i also looked in Pat Earnshaws book, but there was none like this. But i think you are quite right with this! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 2:41 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lace ID Help It looks like Irish crochet, most likely imitating gros point de Venise needle lace or the like. Beyond Pat Earnshaw's books, which are great for finer earlier laces but not more modern cheaper laces, a book I find easy to use for quick lace id is: Guide to Lace and Linens, by Elizabeth M. Kurella isbn 0-930625-89-7 Katy On Fri, May 16, 2008 at 4:02 AM, Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Can anyone help me identify what type of lace is on a bodice circa 1900-1906? You can view a photo enlargement of the lace at: http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/1900beigebodicelace.jpg Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeslideshows.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] renaissance dress
I have uploaded some more pictures. I made a drawing after the portrait and removed the hands from the front, and this is my theory of her skirt. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm I wondered about her juwelry necklace with the big S on it. Her name is Constance, but i found out she was a lady in waiting at the court of the king Christian IV's mother Sofie who came from Mecklenburg. It must be a gift from the queen. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress
Oh you are quite right, sorry about that mistake, Thanks for the informations.. Bjarne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 5:17 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off base on the necklace. If you look closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and H. In period it was common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out of the question. Karen Seamstrix -- Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have uploaded some more pictures. I made a drawing after the portrait and removed the hands from the front, and this is my theory of her skirt. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm I wondered about her juwelry necklace with the big S on it. Her name is Constance, but i found out she was a lady in waiting at the court of the king Christian IV's mother Sofie who came from Mecklenburg. It must be a gift from the queen. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Boost your productivity with new office software. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3mEauJF0hy8b9dqtW7dfMZioyP8RtXNYN7FSyPJEN3RPUghi/?count=1234567890 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress
If you hadnt told me, i would never have guessed because i was so sure about the S and Queen Sofie. I also noted that the same thing occurs round her neck in the smaller jewellry. Bjarne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 5:30 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress No need to apologize, I'm just a fresh set of eyes looking at it. I'm sure you would have realized it eventually. I can't wait to see the finished product! (But I'll make do with the interesting 'in progress' postings in the mean time.) Karen Seamstrix -- Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Oh you are quite right, sorry about that mistake, Thanks for the informations.. Bjarne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 5:17 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off base on the necklace. If you look closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and H. In period it was common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out of the question. Karen Seamstrix -- Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have uploaded some more pictures. I made a drawing after the portrait and removed the hands from the front, and this is my theory of her skirt. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm I wondered about her juwelry necklace with the big S on it. Her name is Constance, but i found out she was a lady in waiting at the court of the king Christian IV's mother Sofie who came from Mecklenburg. It must be a gift from the queen. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Boost your productivity with new office software. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3mEauJF0hy8b9dqtW7dfMZioyP8RtXNYN7FSyPJEN3RPUghi/?count=1234567890 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Click here to become certified in medical billing and training at these schools. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3ol4Ju547MllPNBke42Cmnn2ui3OzXKVDT0dktzD1FaOro7e/?count=1234567890 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.
Hi all, I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files! http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale? To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 degrees. Its not possible to see because of both hands covering the area, but i would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i quite wrong with this, please let me know what you think: Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated. Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress.
Hi, Thanks Alexandria, In patterns of Fashion vol. 1560- 1620 there actually are small wheel farthingales shown on effigy figures (page 68-69) About the same size these are dated 1610 so it would be very close to 1614 in Denmark. Could off cause also be a roll as you have mentioned, and i am aware that the foot of the skirt, suggests a spanish farthingale. What i wondered was if it would be way two far out to make the dress with this pleated frill in the top at (either the roll or the wheel) It was very fashionable at this time. Thanks for your comments! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Alexandria Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 4:02 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Danish Renaissance dress. Because the top of this is rounded, rather than flat, I'd go with a padded roll/cushion kind of thing. The wheel fathingales were also much larger in portion to the waist than this one is, though it's bigger than a typical padded hip/bum roll. Maybe a transtional style? The shape I'd go with would be a c shape for the waist with a larger C for the outer edge with the distance at the sides about 6 inches (15 cm) maybe a little larger in the back. Thickness of the pad would be what sits best on the hips to make the skirts stand out as required. hope this helps alex On 5/15/08, Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I have received some close up photos of the portrait i am going to make the dress from, and i have uploaded to my webpage, mind the big files! http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm Am i right to suggest that this could be a small wheelfarthingale? To me the angle of the bodice - skirt is nearly 90 degrees. Its not possible to see because of both hands covering the area, but i would make a pleated frill on top of the wheel? Am i quite wrong with this, please let me know what you think: Comments most welcome and greatly apreciated. Portrait painted in 1614 and Denmark was a little behind new fashions. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- I'm buying this fabric/book now in case I have an emergency...you know, having to suddenly make presents for everyone, sickness,flood, injury, mosquito infestations, not enough silk in the house, it's Friday... ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C
Thanks Katy, you made it easy for me! Yes this is the dress i was speaking of. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 10:23 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C I believe the dress in question is pictured on the MET museum site (I just found my copy of the book to look it up). It is featured on the first page on their highlights from the collection page. Dress (Robe à la Française), 1740s British; Country of Origin England Harris B. Dick Fund, 1995 (1995.235a, b) http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/index.aspx?dep=8vw=0 Here is a link to the page for the dress: http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/the_costume_institute/Dress_Robe_a_la_Fran_aise/ViewObject.aspx?depNm=the_costume_institutepID=1kWd=OID=80001010vW=0Pg=1St=5StOd=1vT=2 You can zoom in,it is very unusual trim, not what everyone thinks of as trim from that period. very interesting. I wish the zoom was a bit more closeup! There's a detail in the book of the fly fringe. On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 2:17 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: When tomorrow it is lighter, i shall photograph the dress from the book and post it for you all to see. It looks authentic to me! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Chris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:41 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C Carol wrote: Back to crochet -- yes, the simple chains and such were around in the 18th century. Some of the cords on military drums are chained rope. The reason for the no crochet pronouncement is that some people want to use crocheted lace for 18th century. The explosion of lace patterns occurred in the 19th century. There are a number of different lace making techniques, many done to look like another type at various times throughout history. Tatting to look like needle lace, etc. Find the artifact for the era, copy the artifact. Depending on the level of accuracy desired, a pair of crocheted doilies may not work for engageantes. I wouldn't use the chaining on fly fringe to justify using them. I'd also be curious whether the museum specifically knows that the crochet on this piece is original, or whether it could have been added a bit later forgive my skeptical reflex here, please! It certainly _could_ be original if it's just chains and fastenings. I'd also like to see a photo, if Bjarne has a way to post it. It may be important to know exactly what this looks like. The more evidence we have of what early crochet _was_ like, the better equipped we are to say what it _wasn't_ like (granny squares, lace edgings, zigzag afghansg). I'm convinced, personally, that bobbin lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for needle-made lace, which is very, very slow. And then tape lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin lace; crocheted lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin and tape laces, machine-made lace as a substitute for crocheted lace, chemically-dissolved lace as a substitute for machine-made lace grin Of course, this is an *extremely* over-simplified view, but I think there's some truth in it. 0 Chris Laning | [EMAIL PROTECTED] + Davis, California http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] crochet
- Original Message - From: zelda crusher [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 2:49 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] crotched I have to say, this post wasn't what I was expecting from the subject line. Honestly not sure what I *was* expecting. Thanks for the giggle, Bjarne! I apologises for the mistake of the spelling. You must bear over with me, i am sorry i am not a native english speaker. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C
When tomorrow it is lighter, i shall photograph the dress from the book and post it for you all to see. It looks authentic to me! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Chris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:41 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] crochet 18th C Carol wrote: Back to crochet -- yes, the simple chains and such were around in the 18th century. Some of the cords on military drums are chained rope. The reason for the no crochet pronouncement is that some people want to use crocheted lace for 18th century. The explosion of lace patterns occurred in the 19th century. There are a number of different lace making techniques, many done to look like another type at various times throughout history. Tatting to look like needle lace, etc. Find the artifact for the era, copy the artifact. Depending on the level of accuracy desired, a pair of crocheted doilies may not work for engageantes. I wouldn't use the chaining on fly fringe to justify using them. I'd also be curious whether the museum specifically knows that the crochet on this piece is original, or whether it could have been added a bit later forgive my skeptical reflex here, please! It certainly _could_ be original if it's just chains and fastenings. I'd also like to see a photo, if Bjarne has a way to post it. It may be important to know exactly what this looks like. The more evidence we have of what early crochet _was_ like, the better equipped we are to say what it _wasn't_ like (granny squares, lace edgings, zigzag afghansg). I'm convinced, personally, that bobbin lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for needle-made lace, which is very, very slow. And then tape lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin lace; crocheted lace was invented as a faster and easier substitute for bobbin and tape laces, machine-made lace as a substitute for crocheted lace, chemically-dissolved lace as a substitute for machine-made lace grin Of course, this is an *extremely* over-simplified view, but I think there's some truth in it. 0 Chris Laning | [EMAIL PROTECTED] + Davis, California http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] silk brokade
I am looking for a brokade of some sort, black and red. Or it could also be orange and red. The pattern should be renaissance. I found one at the Delectable Mountain fabric store wich was posted here some time ago, but its miniature format for dolls. I have looked everywhere, but dont seem to find any. Where did they find the fabrics for Elizabeth Golden age? Very happy if anybody could help. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Catching up
This is not crotched. Its needle lace Penny, if you look at the right corner above the medallions, you can see some round loops on each center bar. Either this, or it could be a combination of crotched and needlelace. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:45 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Catching up 2. Image: http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030429.jpg . These medallions are borders on a three-tiered net dress. My question: What is the name of the type of hand-crochet around the medallions? It is a cotton thread very similar what is used on doilies. I am so embarrassed that I can't remember this term. I have made this type of crochet so many times. It is made by using a double or triple crochet, then chain two or three and then repeat. There are three rows of this type of crochet around each medallion. Claire, Thank you for your answer for what type of crochet surrounding the medallions on the dress. Your answer is correct. I checked several websites against your answer...filet. I have seen the word spelled filet and fillet. Are both spellings correct? I have seen these used interchanged. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeslideshows.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] silk brokade
Hi Suzi, I know Hyena, and i have had things from them before, but i dont find what i am looking for here. Thanks anyway! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 10:52 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk brokade At 09:40 05/05/2008, you wrote: I am looking for a brokade of some sort, black and red. Or it could also be orange and red. The pattern should be renaissance. I found one at the Delectable Mountain fabric store wich was posted here some time ago, but its miniature format for dolls. I have looked everywhere, but dont seem to find any. Where did they find the fabrics for Elizabeth Golden age? Very happy if anybody could help. Bjarne Try here - even if you don't like anything, it's a beautiful site, and the lady is so helpful. http://www.hyenaproductions.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATSCategory=6 Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] silk brokade
Hi Zuzana, Thankyou for the big favour, but i think it would be two much to ask. I only need one skirt height as i want to fake the underskirt and only have the front part in the real brokade. Rest of the dress is black. So it would be two much to ask you for such a little quantity. Also the underskirt is decorated with gold braid in the front, wich i think is a shame, but it was the fashion i guess. Therefore the pattern of the fabric dont has to be so authentic as possible. The whole buisiness in trying to recreate such a dress, has almost made me give up the whole buisiness. The lace i baught from England wich is a reproduktion of a reticella lace is ideal, but it is two big and clumsy, not at all as fine as the portrait. And besides this the research and looking for the right materials, is really time consuming, the museum cant pay me for all the research, i think i might give it up after all. Bjarne Original Message - From: Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 11:13 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk brokade We've just begun to sell Chinese silk fabrics, also brocades, my sister buys them in China and I sell them in Europe. We currently don't have any red-black brocade, but we could possibly have a look next time we go shopping, it depends on how quickly you need the fabric. Not very easy to get it this way, I know, but if you didn't find anything... Zuzana www.sartor.cz Note: this shop is quite new, so there's almost nothing in it and almost no proper historical dresses - I'm working on it and hope to add some more interesting items during the summer. - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] crotched
I know we have disgussed the history of crotched here manny times. I was amazed when i got a book : Our New Clothes: Acquisitions of the 1990ies from The Metropolidan Museum of Arts. There is a beautifull Robe a la francaise dated 1740ies, floral handpainted cream silk moiré faille. It has crotcheted netting, cream silk fly-fringe and polycrome flowers of silk floss. Crotcheted netting is made in a ecry colloured thread. I didnt know crotching was as old as that! Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Banyan
I have a question. Its about the cut of a banyan. I dreamed about this for manny years, finally i have the oportunity to make it, because there is an event in september where i can use it at breakfast. I want to make my banyan in an oldfashioned 18th century cut, with t-shape and doubble breasted oriental closure at the neck. Today i drafted the doubble breast part, because i want to embellish it with 3 rows of silver bobbin lace and 2 rows in between the lace with an embroidered rose wreath. Now my question, would 49 cm be two much width of the doubble breast at the fot hem? The banyan is going to be made of shot silk taffeta, purple/green as a main collour, but the doubble breasted front is going to be a green shot taffeta, turquise blue/yellow like the cuffs and collar. The banyan is very simple in cut, only i am not sure if 49 cm of overlapping in the foot hem would be two much. Thanks for any inputs Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Banyan
Hi Suzi, Thanks for your input! I know its a lot, but its because i have it about 30 at the neck, but i increase the width from the neck to the hem. I want the banyan to have width at the hem, its not cut straight. But maybe you are right about it being two much? Bjarne - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 8:43 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Banyan At 19:23 30/04/2008, you wrote: I have a question. Its about the cut of a banyan. I dreamed about this for manny years, finally i have the oportunity to make it, because there is an event in september where i can use it at breakfast. I want to make my banyan in an oldfashioned 18th century cut, with t-shape and doubble breasted oriental closure at the neck. Today i drafted the doubble breast part, because i want to embellish it with 3 rows of silver bobbin lace and 2 rows in between the lace with an embroidered rose wreath. Now my question, would 49 cm be two much width of the doubble breast at the fot hem? The banyan is going to be made of shot silk taffeta, purple/green as a main collour, but the doubble breasted front is going to be a green shot taffeta, turquise blue/yellow like the cuffs and collar. The banyan is very simple in cut, only i am not sure if 49 cm of overlapping in the foot hem would be two much. Thanks for any inputs I think 49cm. is far too much. Measure between armpits, and you will find a better guide. About 30cm. seems a better overlap. Look here for lots of other information and pictures. http://tinyurl.com/6gt3k6 Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] How many costume books do you have?
I have not counted my books, but if i include books about embroidery and lace making i think i have collected about 400 books. My best buy was last year where i found a book with all fashion engravings of Moreau Le Jeunne from 18th century and i payed about 1000 kr. for it wich is about 200 dollars in a second hand bookshop in Rome. My most valued books are Janet Arnolds pattern books and also Norah Waughs, they have always ben my compannions, and still are when i need to get more informations about a special style of dress. The best portrait book must be one i got this winter a book with all Alexander Roslins portraits from 18th century. They are incredible, you can see clearly the dust powder from the wigs has sprayed down on their clothes, wich i never noticed before in any other painter. A future book would be a homemade one, where i print out all the fashion engravings in my database from 18th century, but this would become my most expensive projekt. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Les Adieaux en miniature
Sorry this is off topic, but it is historical costume. I finnished the doll dress and i promised you to see it finished: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cl31.htm More here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm I am going on a small holliday to Berlin the day after tomorrow, it wil be nice, but i cant waite to get home again and start another one. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Les adieaux en miniature
Gosh, thanks a lot all for the nice feedback on this. It is my first, and sertanly not the last, i have a polonaise in my head for the next one. Thanks a lot! Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] ball jointed dolls
As some of you had these dolls, my question is: Are there any groups you can join to talk about these dolls? Thanks in advance Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Maria Teresa
This is a french style court gown. It is boned bodice laced center back and skirt over pannier. I have made a lot of research of this style because i made a danish court dress in this style. Look in Costume and Janet Arnold made a pattern draft of Sofia Magdalenas wedding dress, wich also is in this style. Besides this you can find informations about the style in Lena Rangstrøms Klæder for tid och evighet Sweden is very lucky because they have 5 dresses preserved in this style, this is: Sofia Magdalenas wedding dress and court dress, Sofia Albertinas wedding dress and then dresses belonging to Ulrika Eleonora. Lena Rangstrøm also made a small book about Sofia Magdalenas wedding dress, with lots of photos - some even taken with xray pictures, to see the boning in the bodices. It is so interresting reading. For a pannier in this shape, you can use Blanche Paines patterndraft of the pannier worn with Ulrika Eleonoras coronation dress. Its pleated in shape, before the channels for the hoops are inserted. Bjarne - Original Message - From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 4:43 AM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Maria Teresa This portrait? http://tinyurl.com/39vwbp or http://www.brukenthalmuseum.ro/de/ev_barocke_sammellust/39.php http://tinyurl.com/2wjr2t http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Martin_van_Meytens_001.jpg http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Queen_Maria_Theresia.jpg -Original Message- Questions re my ongoing project of H-costume in minature: I have a quest to interpret Maria Teresa coronation gown;.Time: 1740 Books before me: Imperial Style: fashions of the Hapsburg era, #91 Is this gown a velvet 'robe Anglaise' with mantua of silk or is the silk piece a shawl/wrap? or (2) a gown of two pieces with stomacher and 'coat' or shawl What is the color scheme? (My resource is in black and white) I have found the sleeve in Art of Costume in Russia, plate referance #13 For any one who might have this portrait in color...painted by/ or of the studio of Marten von Meytens. Thanks Kathleen (Who hasn't told Queen Maud that she has another commission!) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] for Bjarne
Thanks a lot Joy, ill try it, Bjarne - Original Message - From: Joy Shillaker [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 8:30 AM Subject: [h-cost] for Bjarne Hi Bjarne you may find these people helpful. They are very friendly and full of fantastic advice http://www.tudorgroup.co.uk/ regards Joy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
Dear all, I feel terrible because i have not answering all your wonderfull suggestions and comments on my coming projekt. I am burried in work right now, and i have saved all your replyes for me in a folder, so that i dont miss anything. I wil probably have some more questions later when i start the projekt. One thing is sure though, i reall have to travel over to the manor to have a close look at the portraits, to se if i can find more details, and ill take my camera with me. Its frustrating when you have something on order and working with it, then have another important order and you dont have the time to make research. I must do this later. If anybody wonder what i am doing right now, i can tell you that i meet a guy in Canada on Livejournal, who collects big asian ball jointed dolls 60 cm high. He asked me to make Marie Antoinette clothes for his dolls, and as i didnt have any dolls to meassure from, he suggested we made a swap, he sended me a doll, and i am going to make a dress for one of his dolls. I started it, and its quite fun. Really it takes much longer time than i figured it would, but its also because i am so critical in details. I am going to make the dress from Moreau Le Jeunnes print Les Adieaux. So far i have made a fully boned corset and a pannier for it, right now i am embroidering the pannels for the dress. See more here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm Also i finnished Guy d'Ancours waistcoat: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/guy_d.htm And i am also making a 1740 corset laced center front. Two buisy! Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] danish renaissance costumes
Hello, Thankyou all for the nice welcome back to the list. You are all very kind. I feel that here on this list, i have manny renaissance experts so this is why i joined again to get help with the costumes i am going to make. I have some questions for you, but i dont have time right now, ill have to get back later today, but i have uploaded the pictures of the portraits here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm The pictures are in a very poor condition, its not due to a bad photograph, but because the portraits simply needs a restauration. As i cant go to the museum right now (its in the other side of the country) i have to stick to these photos from a book. I am looking forwards to any comments on this, and i thank you all in advance for your gennerous help. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] danish renaissance costumes
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br2.htm I see that the coif is not edged with lace, is it a linnen coif she has under the black pearl embroidered coif, wich shows in the front? Would this dress have the bodice sewed on to the skirt? Or is it seperate? Would the neck cut of the bodice be the same as the white collar? So that the white collar is resting on a black collar wich belongs to the bodice? Do you think the bodice has epaulettes on the armscyes? How is the bodice closed in the front, should i make black fabric covered buttons? Does the sleaves also have buttons at the wrist? I am not going to make the costume compleately with original underwear, only just make the costume, so that it looks like the portrait. Do you think i need to make a corset to get the right shape? Is it enough support for the skirts just to make a small bumroll? These are my first questions for you, the male costume is comming later, they want me to start with the female costume. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] corset supplies manufacturers
The german company you would like to know would be Wiessner. http://www.wissner.de/ I use their plastic bones, and they are very nice for corsets. I mostly make 18th century stays. Their minimum order is 200 meter. A very happy costumer Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Renaissance costume
Dear all, I am sorry for the confusion, i have joined the list again. This is because i have had an order from Gammel Estrup, whom i made the danish courtdress. They want me to make 2 renaissance costumes (late period 1614). I am going to make these after 2 portraits, of a coupple who owned the place back then. On monday ill make a good scan of the portraits for you to see, i am sure that i am going to need a lot of help from you experts, its manny years ago i made renaissance, and my knolledge about theperiod is very limited. The female costume is as far as i can see, without any farthingale, and quite simple, with long narrow sleaves in black, bodice black, and overskirt black. The only collour is the underskirt wich is red and black with gold lace on it. The collar is a standing one, with a lace in the edge. The mans portrait is rather dark and its difficult to see clearly but i suppose its trunkhoses doublet and a cloak with a small ruff round the neck, both persons have white cuffs edged with lace. The female has a coiff embroidered with pearls and edged with lace. So you are going to have me here for a while, i am looking forwards to all the help i can get from you... Manny greetings Bjarne in Denmark. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] new waistcoat
Dear all, I am most gratefull to all of you who commented on my new waistcoat embroidery. Its always nice to be phraised! You are all very kind! Thankyou.. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] new waistcoat
Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I am pleased, it looks like porcelain i think. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Waistcoat:
Manny thanks. The embroidery surely is hand done. No machine here. Bjarne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:44 PM Subject: [h-cost] Waistcoat: Yesterday evening i finnished the second part of the new waistcoat. I am pleased, it looks like porcelain i think. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g10.htm; __ That is absolutely stunning, is the embroidery hand done or by machine?? There's an art I would love to learn. More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Lövsta Gård in Sweden
Gustafs Skål invited to a small winter party at Lövsta Gård on the second of february this year. It was very cosy and intimate because we were not as manny people as usually when they invite to partys at Beatelund. I compleately forgot to take pictures, but a lady borrowed my camera, and ended up with these pictures: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/lovstagard.htm The party started at 3 o clock in the afternoon, but the people i drowe with, had to work to afternoon, so we came a little late, about 5.30. It was very far out in the countryside, and it was a snowblitz, but we came safely to the place. A charming old farm with lovely interriors in the 18th century style. Wonderfull food and wonderfull entertaintment, dansing and gambling, killed the night. Thanks to the organisers and the wonderfull place they found. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bragging
Some of them are not. I saw an artickle in the danish antique magazine, with beautifull floral embroideries wich i have never seen before, and they were from a tablecloth belonging to one of Christian IV's daughters. in the possesion of Rosenborg. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Tania Gruning [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 7:52 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bragging No I did not, I will have to check out their site to view some of them in person. There is one tablecloth that gives me grandiouse ideas about a bedspread, would probably take me 20-30 years to make. will post a scan of the tablecloth with the project description and materials needed. I have not been studying the book in depth yet, but are the rosenborg tablecloths in the book, do you know, or have they been collected after the book came out? There are no photoes of them at all? Tania Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Congratulations with your book. Do you know that Frederiksborg shows some of the table cloths every year? I believe it is every easter time. Also Rosenborg has a wonderfull collection of silk embroidered tablecloths from early 1600 but they are never shown and in no catalogues wich is such a shame Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] off topic price of candlesticks
I watched a documentary film about Marie Antoinette from swedish television with a swedish story teller. I believe the original of the film is french. Anyway he tells that they burned 1 candlesticks every day at Versailles and the price of 1 candlestick would be as much as the vages of a worker for a week! I dont wonder why the people got angry then, but could this really be true! Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] insane hunt
Hi, I know this is for some of you way two much out, but it is a little costume contented, therefore i post. In november the television in Denmark showed a clip from the danish armory museum. They had catched a ghost on live cam between 11.15 and 11.45 before midnight. The clip is extracted to the short version here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrOwbYqyL_Q Anyway i used my windows moviemaker to take single pictures of the clip, to get better images of the mooving figure. I have resampled these to 800 % and one of the pictures gives the shape of the figure. And i can tell you to mee it looks like a Vermeer figure. you know the dutch painter. To me its a woman with a big white collar, a small darker headcap and somehow her dress is devided or she wears a shorter dress on top of the bottom dress. This could be correct for the period, because the museum was build in early 17th. century. To those of you who wonder more about the movie clip, the left walls are full of exhibition montres so you cant go to the left, and the right gets yuo right out to the roof. Things you do when you have nothing else to do, and sorry for you guys out there, who thinks this is crazy! Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Bragging
Congratulations with your book. Do you know that Frederiksborg shows some of the table cloths every year? I believe it is every easter time. Also Rosenborg has a wonderfull collection of silk embroidered tablecloths from early 1600 but they are never shown and in no catalogues wich is such a shame Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Embroidery in a frame
Hi. I have a frame from an english online site called Barnyarns. You can find it on google! My frame is 68 cm wide. It has roller bars on top and bottom. On these you can roll your fabric, if you have a very long projekt. These roller bars are fastened with skrews? dont know the right word sorry. But you can buy frames wich are larger. When i make a big projekt like a waistcoat, i cant have the whole lenght of the waistcoat in my frame, but then i move the embroidery, as i get along. The fabric is sewn on the roller bars. Works very nicely. Another good thing with my frame is that i can tilt my frame, and push it into a good working posission. Usually i sit comfortable in my sofa and embroider. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidery in a frame
Forgot to show this picture: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/g5.htm Here you see most of the frame with a waistcoat embroidery in it. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 9:45 AM Subject: [h-cost] Embroidery in a frame Hi. I have a frame from an english online site called Barnyarns. You can find it on google! My frame is 68 cm wide. It has roller bars on top and bottom. On these you can roll your fabric, if you have a very long projekt. These roller bars are fastened with skrews? dont know the right word sorry. But you can buy frames wich are larger. When i make a big projekt like a waistcoat, i cant have the whole lenght of the waistcoat in my frame, but then i move the embroidery, as i get along. The fabric is sewn on the roller bars. Works very nicely. Another good thing with my frame is that i can tilt my frame, and push it into a good working posission. Usually i sit comfortable in my sofa and embroider. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The costume I wore for my holiday...
Very nice pictures Ann. You look wonderfull! Bjarne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 12:45 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] The costume I wore for my holiday... In a message dated 1/16/2008 5:09:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I must say the Green dress with the matching corset is also very nice. Is that an 1860 period gown? The lady sitting next to you also has a nice dress on, would a hoop be a suitable addition for it? I believe the green you refer to was an interpretation of 18th century, not mid-19th and what looks like a corset is her stomacher. Not sure which other dress you mean that could use a hoop. Almost everyone else was wearing early 19th century, so no hoops. Of course, for those who are more en bon point, as the Lady of Distinction said, our skirts are a little fuller and not so tubular looking. I wear a fairly narrow petticoat, but with a corded hem, under mine, similar to the one in Cunnington's History of Underwear. Riversdale, I should have said, is a Federal era house, built circa 1801-1807, and we primarily interpret the period prior to 1821, but we are flexible and welcome people dressed in other eras, even 21st century! We are in Riverdale Park, Maryland, in the suburbs of Washington, DC. If you are going to be in the area, please check us out. For more information, visit our website, _http://www.pgparks.com/places/eleganthistoric/riversdale_intro.html_ (http://www.pgparks.com/places/eleganthistoric/riversdale_intro.html) Thanks, all, for your interest. Ann Wass **Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp0030002489 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] white wool stockings
Thankyou very much Suzi, You always have the right answer to my questions. I am so happy for the needles you provided me. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 1:44 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] white wool stockings At 12:34 04/01/2008, you wrote: I am going to an event in Sweden in start of february the north of Sweden, where it usually is very cold for this season. I wondered if someone knows if a womans department in a big warehouse would have long knee woolen stockings wich i could wear to my 18th century outfit? This lady will make stockings to order - and she is charming with it, and very, very helpful. http://sallypointer.com/shop/index.php?cPath=38osCsid=73b19b3432095d445e8aaf27553b88a6 Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] white wool stockings
I am going to an event in Sweden in start of february the north of Sweden, where it usually is very cold for this season. I wondered if someone knows if a womans department in a big warehouse would have long knee woolen stockings wich i could wear to my 18th century outfit? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] German Renaissance pleating
Hi, Or perhaps they used sticks? Sticks as long as the pleating was going to be like, you know, lye one under, then one over and so on. This method is used for some of the headwears, that pheassant women in Denmark used. Done with wet water, and taken up again when dry? Bjarne - Original Message - From: Wicked Frau [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 4:09 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] German Renaissance pleating I'd hazard a guess that they were made like smocking pleating...probably basting threads were sewn at regular intervals and then pressed. Don't know that there is really any faking itother than using a pleater... http://www.smockingstore.com/pleaters.html#pleaters (Scroll down). Sg For further opinions you might want to join TheGermanRenCostume Yahoo group. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 4:38 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] German Renaissance pleating Hello, has anyone ever heard of German Renaissance pleating techniques? Textiler Hausrat mentions sumptuary laws by which a pleated apron must not cost more than a given price for the Felterer, a tradesman specialised in making the pleats, and some household inventories mention pleating boards and irons. But how exactly would these pleats have been made? They are so small and yet look perfectly parallel when you look at this picture: http://www.zeno.org/Kunstwerke/B/Dürer,+Albrecht%3A+Nürnbergerin+im+Hausklei d+%5B1%5D I cannot believe that they were ironed one by one, do you? How would you make these pleats, or how would you fake them for the stage? Best wishes, Hanna ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bjarne's Website
Hi, That is my website, its here: www.my-drewscostumes.dk Bjarne - Original Message - From: Laura Chambers [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 8:40 PM Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne's Website I am new to the list and am in the process of planning a regency wedding. Luann was telling me I needed to see some of Bjarne's work but I have been unable to find links in the archives or a website. Could someone please point me in the correct direction. Thanks, LauraIf we continue to forget our past we will continue to repeat it over and over and over... _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database
Dear Susan, Type in mode and scroll a little down, put a mark under collection Maciet, scroll up again, and click the link called Rechercher with the arrow. Then all the titles appears. Mark one of the titles and click under where it says voir les notices. Then the title of the book appears on the right side, scroll down a little and there is a link in the text, click this, and then all the small images pops up, each of these can be clicked to big images wich pops up in new window. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Susan Data-Samtak [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:56 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database On Dec 13, 2007, at 2:02 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: Type in mode in the place at the left, I got this far in the directions but what do I type? When I type mode, I get a page with no listings. What am I doing wrong? I'd like to see the embroidery, too. Thanks. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] dress in Stuart England
Hi, I just am curious about this book, Dress in Stuart England, its not the right title, but i am sure you know wich book i am talking about. How is this book, does it have manny nice pictures? Its just that Amazon has reduced the price from 40 pounds to 3.20 I got a notice about this when i baught my christmass pressent, the fine art of kimono embroidery wich i saw in a danish bookshop the other day to more than doubble of the price at amazon. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database
Ups. Sorry this was posted to the wrong person, sorry so much! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Wicked Frau [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 4:01 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database WOW! I am supposed to be researching headdress of the 1800-1804 and was wondering how the heck I was going to get my hands on any primary information! Thanks Bjarne! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database
Thanks a lot Neale... Bjarne - Original Message - From: Wicked Frau [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 4:01 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database WOW! I am supposed to be researching headdress of the 1800-1804 and was wondering how the heck I was going to get my hands on any primary information! Thanks Bjarne! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung
From what i have experiensed, shantung is thinner than dupioni, and shantung also has less slopings as dupioni has. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 4:19 PM Subject: [h-cost] difference between dupioni and shantung Hi everyone, I've spent the past few days searching on the internet and I've been asking as many people as I met and still can't get the difference between silk shantung and silk dupioni. I often ask my sister in China to buy me some shantung, but once she gets a very fine fabric with almost no slubs and another day she gets one with a rougher texture and more visible slubs. I didn't know how to call these two, so I started to search for such sorts of silk fabric that would match the two fabrics, and I got shantung and dupioni. But alas, sources say different definitions, one says the contrary of the other, leaving me really puzzled... Does anyone know something about that? Pictures are really welcome... - Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] dress in Stuart England
Sorry i post again, can it really be, that noone on the list knows anything about this book? Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England (Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art) (Hardcover) by Aileen Ribeiro Has it manny pictures, or is it more of a text book? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] sally queen associates
How about making your own callender, using some of the gorgeous fashion prints from the database i posted here. I actually have desided i want some of my favourite ones in a callendar, and my photo shop makes the callenders in a lot of varieated versions, and prices. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] huge fashion ingravings database
I thoaght, as there are manny here who loves regency to send this link. It has hundreds of fashion prints starting end of 18th century and onwards, year by year. Go to this page: http://www.bibliothequedesartsdecoratifs.com/consultation2/consultation.html click on recherche simple. Type in mode in the place at the left, and put a mark under collection macinet, then click recherche. Now comes a full list of books to the left, mark one of them and click under where it says voir les notices Then the title of the book appears to the right, click the link in the bottom. Then small images appear to the right, these are clickable to huge resolution images wich pops up in new windows. They are all downloadable, and gues who is a very happy man? I know its a little difficult to find them, but if you do what i said here, it should work for you! There is enough for days i tell you Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] removing blod stains
I remember i saw a tv programme from the workshop at Chanel where all the work of the couturieres was shown. It happened from time to time, that some of the ladies, stuck their fingers and bleeded on the haute couture creations, but then they had a lady they send for who emediately came and removed the blod stains. What do you think they used? I have often wondered about this, and also because sometimes it happens for myself two. What do you do? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] huge fashion engravings database
Yeah, i should have ben embroidering a lot these last coupple of days, but i found i better had to download all the ones i could get, you never know how long they will be on the internet, it must be quite expensive to have all that lying on the net with such high resolution engravings. And the way they have glued the prints with several on each page, makes a lot of work to do in the drawing program when you want to seperate these to single ones. I prefer this, because its very difficult to single each one out, when they are pasted manny together. So you are right, evil time consuming, but wonderfull drawings... Bjarne - Original Message - From: costumeraz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 6:20 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] huge fashion ingravings database Bjarne, You are either WONDERFUL or EVIL! Either way, thank you so much for that link and the directions for navigating the web-site. The images are incredible! Thank heavens the semester is about over...I wasn't planning on spending the whole holiday break on a French fashion history web-site, but I just might! Happy Holidays everyone! Laurie T. Phoenix, Arizona -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 3:58 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] huge fashion ingravings database I thoaght, as there are manny here who loves regency to send this link. It has hundreds of fashion prints starting end of 18th century and onwards, year by year. Go to this page: http://www.bibliothequedesartsdecoratifs.com/consultation2/consultation.html click on recherche simple. Type in mode in the place at the left, and put a mark under collection macinet, then click recherche. Now comes a full list of books to the left, mark one of them and click under where it says voir les notices Then the title of the book appears to the right, click the link in the bottom. Then small images appear to the right, these are clickable to huge resolution images wich pops up in new windows. They are all downloadable, and gues who is a very happy man? I know its a little difficult to find them, but if you do what i said here, it should work for you! There is enough for days i tell you Bjarne ___ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1183 - Release Date: 12/13/2007 9:15 AM ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] needles update
Hello, I just wanted to finnish the diskussion about needles, in telling that i received my needles from London this week, i have ben using one of them, a sharp nr 12 for 2 days, embroidering on the waistcoat. Today i embroidered about 12 hours in a row, and my needle is still straight. Usually all my needles gets bended by use, but this Johna James needle is still straight. Very happy to have found these.. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] sewing needles
Hi. Suddently all the stores in Denmark dont have the needles i use for my embroidery any more. I used Millward sharps, and i dont think i can find any online. The needles i can find here, are two big, that is to say, the heads are two big. I need really small heads, not bigger than the shaft in itself. Does any know where i can get any online please? Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] sharp sewing needles
Stupid me, it was because i misspelled the name, sorry folks! But could someone tell me wich are smallest, 5/10 - 3/9 or 7? Usually not attended to the size nr. cause i just chose the smalles i could get. Also heard that you can get extremely fine sharps with the numbers of 12 according to Inspirations Magazine issue where i am in, there is an article of the Suzhou embroidery tour that the magazine had. They use sharps nr 12 and where might i get some of them? Would it say that a size 8 is finer than a size 7? Bjarne who just discovered how stupid i really am, not nowing anything at all about sewing needles ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bjarne Drew Article
Dear Linda, Jane and Liadain Thanks for letting me knowing this. Nice that some of my old arachne friends noticed it. But a little note, i dont make lace anymore. Also Jane! i dont need an extra copy, i had one send for me, when the article was published, but thanks for the offer anyway! This month i also made a projekt for the magazine, a lit for a sewing basquet, wich i call Marie Antoinettes Mobcap. Its a domeshaped lit with embroidered roses and forgetmenots edged with a nice cotton lace- hence the name mobcap, because it reminds me a little of a mobcap. The magazine wanted me to make some projekts for the readers. A purse is in my mind two, when i get more time. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Linda Walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 11:52 PM Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne Drew Article Here is a message which I am forwarding (with permission) from Sue Fink, a lace maker in New Zealand. It was originally sent to the list for lace makers, ([EMAIL PROTECTED]). Hurray for Bjarne! From Linda Walton In cold wet foggy High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K. Original Message Subject: [lace] Bjarne Drew Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 15:54:41 +1300 I am sure that the name Bjarne Drew will mean something to a lot of the longer standing Arachnids! Bjarne makes reproduction costumes from the 17th and 18th century and also the lace to go on them (which was where Arachne came in!) Issue 56 of the Australian magazine Inspirations has a lovely article about Bjarne and shows some of his costumes and also a picture of him at his pillow. It was lovely to read the article and realise that though Bjarne has disappeared from our ken, he is still happily making his costumes. Sue Fink In lovely sunny warm Masterton, New Zealand -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: welcome back
I must second that your blackwork is magnificent! What a lot of work, and so beautifull!! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 7:51 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: welcome back Thanks! Am hard at work on more b/w for Christmas presents, then on to some new body linens - have been planning FOREVER to do the camicia from Raphael's La Muta. And then I'll need the gown to go with it... Alas, only one kitten remains - apparently they had been exposed to cat parvo before we found them. Last one is a holy terror now. G Happy stitching! Liadain THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO wildernesse, the Outlands http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joy Shillaker Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 8:30 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: welcome back Hi Liadain, your blackwork is absolutely gorgeous! How are the kittens? regards Joy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost]Night caps
Hi, Also 17th and 18th century have some very nice night caps survived. If you would like to try to embroider an 18th century one, there is a gorgeous pattern in the book Costume Close Up from Colonial Williamsburg. It has the draft of the embroidery two. Night caps were used by men, not only when they went to bed, but also when they were relaxed at home, wearing a banyan (house coat). In 18th century they were ideal, because when mundane, they didnt have to wear a wig, but could use the night cap in stead. They were made with manny beautifull embroideries, with polycrome collours and the banyans was also very collourfull. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] history of nordic costume in 16th century.
Hi, Although it is in danish, lots of the sites has illustrations. The danish book Dagligtliv i Norden i det 16. århundrede by Troels Lund, has ben published to the internet. It is several thick books. The book about costume is here: http://runeberg.org/dagligt/4/ Manny manny interresting illustrations. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume