Re: [lace] Freehand Lace Group?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Thank you Kim! So glad to hear it. :)
Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Freehand Lace Group?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

The url I had was Freehandlace.com. It wasn't a part of IOLI Ning that I
know, but it may have started there.
Thank you for that information!
Best,
Elena

On Wed, Feb 2, 2022 at 6:49 PM Adele Shaak  wrote:

> If this was the freehand lace group on the IOLI Ning site, I believe they
> are in the process of moving it to a different platform. (I don’t know
> which one.)
>
> Adele
>
> > On Feb 2, 2022, at 3:45 PM, Elena Kanagy-Loux 
> wrote:
> >
> > Dear Arachnids,
> >
> > I was trying to access the Freehand Lace Group website this evening but
> the
> > url I have is not working. I'm wondering if I have the wrong address, or
> > has the website perhaps lapsed? I hope not, as it is so useful in my
> > research! If someone would remind me of the url so I can double-check it
> > that would be much appreciated.
> >
> > Best Wishes,
> > Elena
> >
> > --
> > Elena Kanagy-Loux
>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Freehand Lace Group?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I was trying to access the Freehand Lace Group website this evening but the
url I have is not working. I'm wondering if I have the wrong address, or
has the website perhaps lapsed? I hope not, as it is so useful in my
research! If someone would remind me of the url so I can double-check it
that would be much appreciated.

Best Wishes,
Elena

-- 
Elena Kanagy-Loux
She/Her

Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Textiles
Co-Editor Volume 3, Non-Wovens

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] History of Lacemaking Coming to America

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Jean,

I saw Arlene's research on the Spiro mound lace in Oklahoma as well and was
absolutely fascinated! Devon Thein informed me that an IOLI member
replicated the same piece on a bobbin lace pillow and published it in a
Bulletin article back in 2013 or so (pardon, I don't have her name handy).
Apparently the Spiro mounds site is working on some sort of exhibition in
the future, so hopefully it will be safe to travel by then.

What's especially neat is that the Spiro mounds example is
braided/interlaced like bobbin lace, rather than knotted or woven like
Andean chancay lace. I had the same thought about lace potentially
originating in the Indegenous Americas and traveling to Europe as the
timing is fitting, but complex braiding has a pretty global history so it's
surprising that more regions didn't develop bobbin lace-style techniques.

Certainly exciting food for thought, and I'm looking forward to seeing what
Angharad publishes!

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] History of Lacemaking Coming to America

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Lorri,

I realized that I also meant to include a link to the digitized version of
"American Lace and Lacemakers," which was published in 1924. If I recall it
has some useful information about the early colonial period:
https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/001983065

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] History of Lacemaking Coming to America

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Lorri,

I am sure that you will be sent many excellent resources, but this article
on Lace in America by Marian Powys is a good place to start:
https://www2.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/articles/120_lac1.pdf

Laurie Waters and Karen Thompson both have expertise in this area.

I'm also working on an article for a publication on textiles and
immigration which examples a lace sample book in the collection of the MFA
Boston: https://collections.mfa.org/objects/315413
It includes a number of samples from various philanthropic lace
organizations across the US in the early 20th century, including the Sybil
Carter Lace School, the Scuola d'Industrie Italiane, etc. So, much later,
but perhaps still of interest! I will let you know when it is published.

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Saint Catherine's Eva in Antwerp?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I hope you are all well!

My husband and I are taking a rather last-minute trip to Antwerp next week
to visit dear friends and to see the spectacular lace exhibition at MoMU
and several other museums. I am planning to see several friends and
colleagues in Antwerp including the curator Frieda Sorber. Sadly we will
not have time to visit Brugge or any other Belgian cities, but we have lots
to see in Antwerp!

I was just reading up on the history of Saint Catherine's Day in
preparation for the Brooklyn Lace Guild meeting tonight, when I read this
article by David Hopkin on Lace in Context:
https://laceincontext.com/keeping-cattern-in-flanders/

As it turns out, I will be in Antwerp on Saint Catherine's eve and day! I
would love to participate in local festivities with the lace community if
there are any still happening. Does anyone know of any guilds/lacemakers in
Antwerp that still celebrate?

Thanks so much!
Best Wishes,
Elena

-- 
Elena Kanagy-Loux
She/Her

Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Textiles
Co-Editor Volume 3, Non-Wovens

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Le Pompe -- first book

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Happy to help! I've been working on a Renaissance lace project, so I always
keep Le Pompe close at hand.

I hope you're able to identify your lace! Would love to see a photo of it
in the Flickr account. :)
Best,
Elena

On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 5:48 PM N.A. Neff  wrote:

> Now THAT was FAST!
>
> Thank you Elena!!
>
> Nancy
>
> On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 5:46 PM Elena Kanagy-Loux 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Nancy,
>>
>> It's not a PDF, but the Met has a copy of the first Le Pompe pattern book
>> that is fully scanned with high resolution images available online (they're
>> open access). Here's a link:
>>
>> https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/356989?searchField=AllsortBy=Relevanceft=le+pompeoffset=0rpp=20pos=2
>> Best,
>> Elena
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 5:34 PM N.A. Neff  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi everybody,
>>>
>>> I have a PDF of the second book of Le Pompe, but I haven't been able to
>>> find a scan of the entire first book, only what is in Levey and Payne.
>>> I'm
>>> looking for the pattern for the lace I bought at auction. It looks like
>>> it
>>> should be out of Le Pompe but it's not in the "libro secondo". Does
>>> anyone
>>> have a PDF of the first book that they could send me? I'd be most
>>> grateful.
>>>
>>> Thanks much.
>>> Nancy
>>> Connecticut, USA
>>>
>>> -
>>> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
>>> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
>>> arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
>>>
>>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Le Pompe -- first book

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hi Nancy,

It's not a PDF, but the Met has a copy of the first Le Pompe pattern book
that is fully scanned with high resolution images available online (they're
open access). Here's a link:
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/356989?searchField=AllsortBy=Relevanceft=le+pompeoffset=0rpp=20pos=2
Best,
Elena

On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 5:34 PM N.A. Neff  wrote:

> Hi everybody,
>
> I have a PDF of the second book of Le Pompe, but I haven't been able to
> find a scan of the entire first book, only what is in Levey and Payne. I'm
> looking for the pattern for the lace I bought at auction. It looks like it
> should be out of Le Pompe but it's not in the "libro secondo". Does anyone
> have a PDF of the first book that they could send me? I'd be most grateful.
>
> Thanks much.
> Nancy
> Connecticut, USA
>
> -
> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
> arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Ecclesiastical lace?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I'm conducting some research regarding the history and ceremonial usage of
ecclesiastical lace, particularly in Italy. I've dipped my toe into this
area before, when writing the catalogue entry for a needle lace chasuble
(linked below), but I'd appreciate any further resources!!

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/218985?searchField=AllsortBy=Relevanceft=lace+chasubleoffset=0rpp=20pos=3

Thanks in advance.
Best,
Elena

-- 
Elena Kanagy-Loux
She/Her

Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Textiles
Co-Editor Volume 3, Non-Wovens

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Contact Information?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I was wondering if anyone had the contact information for Elena Dickson,
author of several books on knotted lace? I'd like to reach out to her about
contributing an article to the encyclopedia project I'm working on. Thank
you very much!

Best,
Elena

-- 
Elena Kanagy-Loux
She/Her

Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Textiles
Co-Editor Volume 3, Non-Wovens

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Macrame history specialist?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I am in search of a historian who has expertise in the history of macrame
to potentially contribute an article for the encyclopedia project I
am working on. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Hanging Bobbins

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I hope that you are all well!

The subject of hanging bobbins has come up recently in both conversations
and in my research, and it's become a goal of mine to acquire one for my
own collection (or several, eventually). I've noticed that young people are
very interested in the topic of hanging bobbins and it would be wonderful
to have a real one to share both online and in person when those events
resume.

I know they don't come up on the market very often, so I thought I'd put
out feelers on Arachne and register my interest! Please let me know if you
hear of any for sale, it doesn't need to be any particular bobbin or an
especially rare one.

Thank you!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Favorite quotes about lace

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I hope you're all staying warm and cozy today (it's snowy here on the east
coast)!

As always I've been doing research on lace of the Tudor period for a
variety of projects and I've been compiling some favorite quotes (just for
fun!). Here are some well-known favorites from the period that you've
probably read:

Phillip Stubbes on the topic of lace ruffs in 1583:
“They trick up these cartwheels of the devil’s [chariot] of pride,
leading
the direct way to the dungeon of hell.”

Thomas Fuller, 1662
"Let [lace] not be condemned for a superfluous wearing; for it doth neither
hide not heat, seeing it doth adorn... Lace [costs] nothing save a little
thread descanted upon by art and industry."

Thomas Tomkis on ladies getting dressed, 1607

“There is such doing with their looking glasses, pinning, unpinning,
setting, unsetting, formings and conforming, painting blue veins and
cheeks; such a stir with sticks and combs… puffs, ruffs, cuffs, muffs… a
ship is sooner rigged by far, than a gentlewoman made ready.”


I wish there were more quotes on what women of the period thought about
lace! Anyway, if you have any favorite quotes about lace, contemporary or
historical, I'd love to hear them. :)


Best Wishes, Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Textile Encyclopedia Proposals

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I hope you are all doing well!

I wanted to send an updated call for proposals for the Bloomsbury
Encyclopedia of World Textiles, of which I am volume editor of the lace
category. We have extended the call for contributions to the end of January
in the hopes of including a broad range of topics in Volume 3, which we are
calling "Lace, Knit, Nonwoven, and Speciality Structures." The proposals
can be very brief, but the final articles will be between 2,000 and 4,000
words and due at the end of next year. While we have gotten several
proposals on bobbin lace, there are still many other topics in lace and
beyond that we are eager to include!

See below for more information:

Lace, knit, nonwoven and speciality structures

This volume brings together the diverse range of textile structures and
their processes that are constructed in ways other than weaving on a loom.
We are seeking entries that provide context to a chosen structure that
places the textile within one or more of the following (though not
exhaustive and other proposals are also welcome) perspectives:

   -

   Historical
   -

   General crafts or regional crafts from around the globe
   -

   Products


   -

   In fashion
   -

   Design
   -

   Technology, processes and techniques
   -



Suggestions for entries for lace include types of:

   -

   Bobbin lace


   -

   Macrame
   -

   Needle lace
   -

   Cutwork and Drawnwork lace
   -

   Tatting
   -

   Crocheted lace


   -

   Teneriffe/sol lace
   -

   Machine-made lace and lace machines
   -



Suggestions for entries for knit include:

   -

   Weft
   -

   Warp


   -

   Flat
   -

   Circular
   -

   Single-bed
   -

   Double-bed
   -

   Hand knitting


   -

   Plush, velvour



Suggestions for entries for nonwoven include:

   -

   Felts – wool and needle / Needle Felting
   -

   Facemask Culture


   -

   Hat making
   -

   Wallcoverings
   -

   Carpets
   -

   Bonded webs – dry laid, wet laid, direct spun, / Nonwovens Technology
   -

   Stitch bonded


   -

   Tufted fabrics


Suggestions for entries for speciality structures include:

   -

   Basketry
   -

   Kumihimo
   -

   Loop braiding


   -

   Nalbinding
   -

   Passementerie



Please send proposals to:



Elena Kanagy-Loux (Lace)

Antonio Ratti Textile Center, The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Email: enkanagyl...@gmail.com



Dr Tracy Cassidy (Knit)

School of Art, Design & Architecture

University of Huddersfield

Email: t.d.cass...@hud.ac.uk



Dr Muhammad Tausif (Nonwovens)

School of Design, University of Leeds

Email: m.tau...@leeds.ac.uk


Please feel free to share this far and wide within your own networks, and
do be in touch with me if you have any questions!

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Goddess of Lace?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Personally I identify most with the namesake of this very list, Arachne! 
Technically she wasn’t a goddess, but as we all know she was a weaver who was 
turned into a spider so I’ve always thought of her as a patroness of lace. :)

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Speed and efficiency in lace?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Lyn, that's an excellent idea!
For those that didn't see David Hopkin's lecture yesterday, I took the
liberty of watching the entire video on YouTube this morning. Here it is,
for those who are interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXgFV_YXYKA

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Speed and efficiency in lace?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hi Clare,

Agreed, they are just breathtaking! I have a video of a lacemaker at
Kantecentrum that I share in most of my lectures for graduate classes and I
always warn them that they will probably be disappointed with the speed of
my live demonstration at the end after watching this video. :)
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Speed and efficiency in lace?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Nancy,

Interesting! I had never considered that, but it makes a lot of sense. I'll
have to give it a try! :)
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Speed and efficiency in lace?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I hope you all are doing well!

I watched a very interesting online talk this weekend with Mathew Gnagy, a
historic costumer who makes some of his own needle and bobbin lace. You can
find his work on his website: https://themodernmaker.net/
I've heard him discuss several times how he tries to observe makers who are
skilled in manufacturing things by hand to try to glean the most efficient
ways in working quickly.

Obviously, decades of experience working at a task day in and day out is
the best ways to get faster at it, but it made me wonder if there aren't
some shortcuts in lacemaking to help speed up the process.

For example, I studied bobbin lace at the Hotel de la Dentelle in Brioude,
and they have a trick for making tallies that allows their staff and
graduates to work impressively fast. It's hard to explain, but essentially
you never pick up and carry your bobbins palms down. Instead you rotate
your hands 180 degrees in a seamless flow and fling the bobbins back and
forth. Sorry if that isn't very clear, they must have videos of it
somewhere.

Anyway, just for fun, I was curious if anyone else had experiences or
advice to speed up lace through shortcuts or other tricks to share with one
another. I certainly find I am much faster working palms up, but most of my
projects are better suited for cookie pillows so I rarely work that way.

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Polish Lacemaker?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I hope you're all having a nice week!

A graduate student in the MFA Textiles program at Parsons in NYC, Layla
Klinger, has been teaching herself to make bobbin lace and is interested in
connecting with a Polish Bobowa lacemaker as she herself has Polish
heritage. Do any of you know of a bobowa lacemaker we could introduce her
to?

Thank you so much!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Re: re. Textile encyclopedia

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hi Everyone,

I wanted to send out a further update to those of you that are interested
in submitting proposals to the encyclopedia project. In order to streamline
the process, please send them to me at this email address (
enkanagyl...@gmail.com) and copy the editor Vivienne Richmond (
vivie...@viviennerichmond.com).

Of course you can identify what volume you are thinking of for your
proposal, but we will also work behind the scenes to determine where all of
the content would fit best so if you're not sure, that's okay too.

Looking forward to reading everyone's proposals!
Best Wishes,
Elena

>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

In going to reply to this email I realized that the email address listed
for proposals is now out of date!
Please send all proposals to Vivienne Richmond, one of the project editors
along with Janis Jeffries at:
vivie...@viviennerichmond.com

For the proposal I think they are looking for a short (one paragraph to one
page) proposal for each article that you would like to write, as well as
your CV.

I hope that helps!
Best,
Elena

On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 1:28 PM Devon Thein  wrote:

> What exactly is the submission process?
> Devon
>
>
>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

That's a great question, Kim, and one that I don't have an exact answer for
yet. If I recall correctly I think they will vary in length from short
entries to longer, in-depth articles. So there would be room for both a
longer, more general entry on the development of bobbin lace, for example,
followed by shorter entries on very specific aspects or regional varieties.
But we are still fleshing all of this out. I think a lot of it has to do
with the kind of submissions that we get!

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

I love that idea, Devon. Absolutely, lace should be in every volume. Here's
the complete list of volumes for all that are interested:

1. Raw Materials: natural fibers, synthetic filaments, blending fibers,
spinning and twining threads and yarns

2. Cloth in Cultures – Wovens: woven structures, techniques and
technologies in the history of weaving

3. Cloth in Cultures – Non-Wovens: history, technology, range of formation
and use including knits, felt, lace, and non-wovens for medical and
industrial use

4. Color: dyeing, dyes and the application of color to fibers and fabrics,
printing and resist techniques

5. Embellishment: finishing, surface design, embroidery, subtraction, and
new technology applications informing the design, aesthetics and qualities
of textile substrates

6. Trade and Industry: global circulation of local manufacture, and the
migration and consumption of textile products, both historically and
contemporaneously

7. Function and the Everyday: textiles in the spheres of domesticity and
duty

8. Politics and Power: textiles as global signifiers of status, wealth,
national identity, ideology, and global influence

9. Sacred and Ceremonial: the role and meaning of textiles in world ritual,
religions, ceremonies and celebrations

10. Textile Futures: textile environmental impacts and proposals for new
ecologies of textile production, consumption and disposal, textiles and
health.

If I weren't already working on the Non-Wovens volume, I'd love to
contribute to Function and the Everyday, which sounds ripe for some lace
articles. However there is still room for discussion and teasing out where
specific techniques should land, e.g. the precise division between
embroidery and needle lace, for example. But also, the editors know that
not everything is clear-cut, so there will inevitably be some overlap and
that's okay too!

I'm really excited by the enthusiasm about this project already. Just
imagine, a textile encyclopedia that doesn't skimp on lace! We are shaping
the future of what textile and history students will learn.

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

No worries, I get enthusiastic too and I realize tone can be difficult to
interpret in email. :)

There is still a lot of conversation going on with the editors determining
where to put different textiles because they're so hard to categorize. As
one of three volume editors for this particular volume my role is really to
field experts such as yourselves to flesh out these ideas – so I'm grateful
for the insights! When I submitted the proposal to work on the project my
main emphasis was on wanting the lace section to be broad and fleshed out
the way it deserves to be. So often lace is just a footnote in textile
history books and that is so frustrating when it's such a massive topic! So
the more contributors we have in lace, the better.

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

To clarify, I don't disagree with anyone here but I was attempting to
answer the question of why bobbin lace was included in the Non-Wovens
Volume. Apologies if it came off poorly. There are definitely many textiles
that will be difficult to categorize, and having a in-depth examination of
the structure of bobbin lace would be a great benefit to the project. Thank
you again for the thought-provoking conversation!

Best,
Elena

>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Thank you Nancy, I think conversations like these are fascinating and one
of the reasons why I enjoy Arachne so much! It's definitely difficult to
draw sharp divisions in a field with so much nuance. Contributions from all
perspectives are welcome and I look forward to reading them!

Best,
Elena

>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hi All,

I think experts in early bobbin lace like Gil Dye can speak to this more
than I can, but evidence points to bobbin lace developing from braiding
techniques, not weaving.

Textile historians generally rely on "The Primary Structures of Fabrics" by
Irene Emery to draw such distinctions, wherein wovens are classified as
being constructed of two distinct sets of elements (a minimum of one warp
and one weft), and bobbin lace is constructed with one set of elements.
Tally stitches come closest to a weaving technique with one worker bobbin
traveling through the passives, but you are still starting with a single
set of elements or bobbins.

I see your point, however, and obviously this is complicated as there are
endless varieties of textile techniques out there, but distinctions had to
be drawn somewhere and I think it makes more sense to keep bobbin lace with
all the other lace techniques I mentioned in the non-woven volume rather
than split them up.

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Re: Textile Encyclopedia

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I was just notified that Arachne doesn't allow for attachments, so here is
a website link with the information!
Please note that as this is a bit older, the call is just for contributors
now and not volume editors.
https://textilesocietyofamerica.org/opportunities/bloomsbury-encyclopedia-of-world-textiles-call-for-contributors-volume-editors

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Textile Encyclopedia

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

By now I am sure many of you have seen the call for contributors that has
been circulating for the upcoming Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World
Textiles. I'm pleased to announce that I will be one of three Volume
Editors working on the Non-Woven Textiles Volume of the Encyclopedia, which
will of course include lace.

Although we have had a couple of proposals to write about lace, including
bobbin lace and netting, I am reaching out to you to see if there is
interest in contributing to a broader variety of lace topics.

Of particular interest are specialists in crochet, hairpin lace, tatting,
sprang, loop braiding, nalbinding, teneriffe/sol lace and other regional
varieties of needle lace, and any other lace-related regional specialties.

I'm attaching a document with all of the information on submitting a
proposal below.
Thank you very much!

Best Wishes,
Elena

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of 
BEWT contributor call (1).pdf]

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Re: Lace countries of the world?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Veronika,

That sounds like a fantastic idea, but it would certainly be a difficult
task! Devon and I have spent many hours discussing just how many lacemakers
were active during certain time periods like in the late 19th century
revival industries. While it is impossible to compile this information with
100% accuracy (alas, historical data of this kind is lacking, particularly
as it pertains to women's history), it would still be very much worth
trying to accomplish in my opinion. It would certainly be  more feasible to
compile information about where lace was made and when, even if there is no
census information.

Perhaps we could begin by compiling figures from articles and books on
specific regions into a Google Document?

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Busting Lace Myths

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Jo,

I am familiar with the wonderful website LaceNews and with their YouTube
channel, thank you for sharing with everyone! They have done a wonderful
job of compiling videos about lace from all over the internet.

To clarify, when I say "limited" I don't mean that there are no videos
about lace, but rather that there are relatively few in comparison to say,
YouTube channels about makeup. There are thousands upon thousands of people
making those, they are seemingly endless, and they can get millions of
views each! There are several other channels making videos about lace that
I am subscribed to, including for example Bryce Adams:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCc7yf-Bs0tgMWmiITLf-kyA
But of course I'd love to hear about others!

However, I think there is a lot of room for more lace videos, and there are
many lace-related topics that have not been covered in great depth. Also,
even when there is good content on YouTube, the algorithm is finicky and
pushes what is popular to the top rather than what is more accurate. So
when people search for "lace history," for example, the results they get
are very short clips from television that are not very well researched, and
include misleading or straight up wrong information.

That is the problem that I'm hoping to offset by adding more content to
YouTube. If anyone else on Arachne is inclined to start their own channel,
I would encourage you to do the same! The more the merrier! Hopefully we
can flood the world with better information and see a decline in people who
claim that we are all "tatting" in the future. :)

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Busting Lace Myths

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

Thank you again for all of your help in identifying holes in my list of
countries with lace traditions around the world!

The reason for this is a new project I am working on creating a YouTube
channel to share information about lace to a larger audience. I am not a
big user of YouTube myself, but it is the #2 search engine used to find
information after Google, and videos about lace are limited. For my very
first video I am going to break down myths that the general public believe
about lace (if they've even thought about it!). One of the ideas I've
encountered is that lace is a purely European textile, and while its
origins are European, there are plenty of regions that make it around the
world.

That being said, what are some of the myths you've all encountered about
lace, or the things you wish people knew about lace? I'm including things
like the idea that all lace is tatting, or that lace is a dying art (I can
personally attest that this is not true!), and other things we've probably
all heard while demonstrating in public. But I'd love to hear from you all
about what lace myths you think need busting!

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Re: Lace countries of the world?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Update: Thank you for the reminder that like the US, Canada and Australia
also have histories of making lace! Also, I feel I should include South
Africa as well, as there is even a monument to a lacemaker that I have seen
photos of in SA. Question: does New Zealand have a lace tradition? What
about any other African countries with lace traditions?

Also, I will add Japan and the Philippines, because although their
industries were small and introduced by missionaries, they do have
histories of making lace. I have friends in Taiwan who make lace and where
there is a lace school in Taipei, but I wonder if there is a long history
there or if it's recent? I can ask them.

Thank you very much to everyone for your rapid and thoughtful replies! I
will reveal the purpose of creating this list in another email, with more
questions for you all if you don't mind!

Best Wishes,
Elena

>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Re: Lace countries of the world?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

It has been pointed out to me that I have left Spain, Germany, Portugal,
and Switzerland off of this list, three of which are places where I have
personally traveled to study lace! So thank you for helping me with my
lapse in memory. This was a preliminary list that I wrote in about ten
minutes time, so I knew I must have forgotten some essentials.

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Lace countries of the world?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello lacemakers,

I am trying to put together a comprehensive list of every country in the world 
with a lace tradition (my definition of “tradition:” they have been making lace 
for at least a century, or once had a lace making industry. So not just a 
hobby). I would love your help in ensuring that I don’t exclude anyone! Here is 
what I have so far. By the way, I am not just including bobbin and needle lace 
but adjacent lace techniques like net-making and sprang as well. Your help is 
much appreciated as always!!

Armenia
Belgium
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Brazil
China
Crete
Croatia
Czech Republic 
Denmark
England 
Estonia
Finland
France
Greece
Hungary
India
Ireland 
Italy
Malta
Mexico
Norway
Panama
Paraguay
Poland
Puerto Rico (technically a part of the US now but with a unique tradition)
Romania
Russia
Scotland
Slovakia
Slovenia
Sweden
Sri Lanka
The Netherlands
Turkey
Ukraine
United States 

Looking forward to your answers! And forgive me in advance if I left out your 
country!
Best Wishes,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Metrpolitan musem bobbins link

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Brian,

Thank you as always for sharing your research.

It’s true that the Met made many images available to the public in recent 
years, but those that still have copyright limitations generally come from 
restrictions put in place by the donor or the artist. However, it’s my 
understanding that the press department doesn’t charge anything to publish 
images anymore, you just have to contact them for permission to publish 
restricted images.  

Although I don’t work in the curatorial department responsible for these 
bobbins, I do think that there could be interest in having supplemental 
research about them added to our internal files. I can forward that along if 
you are interested, my email address is elena.kanagy-l...@metmuseum.org.

I’m replying all to this message so that others who may wish to publish images 
will have this information as well. Again, not my department, but I hope to 
shed some light!

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Dior Used an Extremely Rare Technique Dating Back to the 15th Century to Create This Delicate Detail

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hi Arachnids,

I was thrilled to wake up and read this article the other morning (sent to
me by Mary Mangan in MA)!

I mentioned in my IOLI talk on Wednesday that one of my interview subjects
from Genoa, Italy told me that more designers should use handmade lace, and
I agreed. At the moment, there are only two other mainstream/couture
fashion designers that I know of that use handmade lace: Ulyana Sergeenko
(who is Russian and uses Vologda lace) and Manolo Blahnik (he used bobbin
lace for a special one-off pair of shoes a few years back).

So to see Maria Grazie Chiuri at Dior focusing so much energy on
traditional craftsmanship and celebrating the processes publicly on all of
their social media platforms is refreshing! It's a big change from
their previous creative directors. I certainly hope that other designers
follow suit; I see it happening with younger designers but we need the
older design houses with more money to do the same.

It's true that the journalist made some errors in her reporting in the
InStyle article, but to be fair journalists of today are churning out tons
of online content so it's hard for them to do thorough research (especially
when we are all stuck working at home). I have consulted with a few
journalists on fashion history subjects and online publications demand they
work at a breakneck pace to keep up with the 24-hour news cycle. I did in
fact reach out to this journalist to tell her how much the lace community
was thrilled to see bobbin lace used in high fashion and that we were
circulating her article widely. I also extended an offer that she and
everyone she works with is always welcome to contact me if they have any
questions about lace. She was very nice and grateful in her response and
said that this was her first time ever hearing about handmade lace, and now
we follow each other on social media to stay in touch.

As has already been pointed out, the obvious obstacle here is that many
people in the US have simply never heard of handmade lace techniques. That
is why I rely on social media to spread the word, as there are millions of
users (even a billion?) that use those platforms. Seeing this article in a
mainstream publication gives me hope for the future!

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Paraguayan Lace

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Kim, Laura, Karen, and Maria,

Pardon my delayed response to each of you as I've had limited access to
wifi recently! Thank you all so much for your messages and the information
you shared, it's incredibly helpful. Arachne is a treasure. Clearly I need
to add Nanduti needle lace to my bucket list of skills, and perhaps
Paraguay to my dream travel destinations list – assuming that we get to
travel again soon!

I went ahead and ordered a copy of Annick Sanjurjo's book for the Ratti
Textile Center Library at the Met, and I will continue to add to that when
I can!
Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Paraguayan Lace

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I am researching a few Paraguayan nanduti lace collars in the collection of
the Met Museum, and I wanted to reach out to this eternally-generous group
and ask if anyone has expertise on this topic they'd be willing to share.

You can see an example of what I am talking about here:
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/215300

I'm looking for books or other academic resources to create label text and
an instagram post for the Ratti Textile Center, but I'm not sure where to
begin!

Thank you all very much, as always.
Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Interested in lace in Australia?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

Wow! Thank you all for your helpful responses. I have to go through them
all and thank you individually for your help. I'm sure this student will be
thrilled!

Also, apologies for misspelling Maire Treanor's name. I have terrible wifi
at the moment and I am not able to double check things or use accented
characters, but I know it wasn't exactly right!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Interested in lace in Australia?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

I hope you are all well!
Brooklyn Lace Guild has just received an email from a fine art student in
Melbourne Australia who is interested in crocheted lace. She read about my
experiences winning a grant to travel across Europe in 2015 and is
interested in doing something similar to study crocheted lace.
So I'd like to ask for two things on her behalf:

Where are there lace schools/instructors globally who specialize in crochet?
(Certainly Ireland is a big one, and I have some friends there, and I also
met crochet lacemakers from Orvieto, Italy on my travels)

Also, any idea about potential grants for art/textile research in
Australia? The ones I know of are for Americans.

Thank you all very much!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Crochet and tatting?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Thank you Jean! I know much less about tatting than I do about other laces
(I can make it, at least!), so this is very helpful.

And thank you to everyone else who has replied to me for your input. What
would we do without Arachne? :)

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Crochet and tatting?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachne,

I am hoping to ask for your thoughts on the origin dates of tatting and
crochet and see if they line up with what I have gathered over the years.

Tatting shuttles, of course are already depicted in 18th century portraits
as they were used for simpler knotting techniques, but what we now know of
tatting doesn't seem to have emerged until the 19th century. Even digging
through my handy Earnshaw and Levey books I don't seem to get a more
specific date than that, although Earnshaw dates the inclusion of picots to
the 1870s. Also, do we think it started in France, or elsewhere?

For the origins of crochet I have seen references as specific as the 1830s,
in England, developed as a quicker imitation of needle lace (although the
resemblance of needle lace to crochet has led some to mistakenly believe it
dates back to the Renaissance).

Do these timelines sound correct to you? I'd love to get your thoughts.

Thank you as always!
Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Soie Ovale

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Susan,

I used soie ovale at the school in Le Puy en Velay when making Craponne.
They use it as an added worker pair in cloth stitch motifs to change
colors, for example in petals and leaves. When paired with "stitckier"
linen thread it stays put and has a lovely effect. If I recall we started
winding it onto bobbins with a small piece of tape so it didn't slip off,
and I don't remember it being any trouble to work with. I've considered
using it as a gimp thread as well, but I haven't tried that yet.

Take care and best of luck!
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Point lace design?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Nancy,

First of all thank you and everyone else who has replied to my query, I
appreciate it!! Sending individual replies now.
I do want to try a floral/figural design so I think drafting by hand is the
best bet. I have had an offer to work with a designer over Skype so that
sounds ideal! I will keep you all posted on how it progresses.

Stay well everyone.
Best Wishes,
Elena

On Fri, Apr 10, 2020 at 1:53 PM N.A. Neff  wrote:

> Hi Elena,
>
> Are you planning geometric or floral? If geometric, can use Lace8.
> Otherwise probably easier to draft by hand unless you have a high-powered
> drafting/drawing program, per Holly van Sciver.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Nancy
>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Point lace design?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hi Arachnids,

I hope you’re all staying safe & well!

I’ve had an itch lately to design a point lace edging, and I’m wondering if 
there might be some online resources you could share? I have designed some 
Torchon & contemporary tape lace-style bobbin laces before but never point 
ground. Any advice is highly appreciated! 

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Re: Czech lace tablecloth

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello everyone,

Thank you for all of the encouraging replies so far!
Devon pointed out to me that there is some more information about this
piece in the Met's internal database, so I looked it up and found this:

"Linen, purchased in Secretariat of Schools, Prague, 1938; made in one of
special craft schools under auspices of state; probably a teacher's
demonstration piece."

Interesting! Are there lists of lace schools and teachers in Prague
anywhere? There must be, but my books are out of reach at the moment so I'd
appreciate any help.

Best Wishes,
Elena

>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: Re[2]: [lace] Our mail list software

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear all,

As much as it would definitely be nice to have the ability to add photos
etc to Arachne posts, I have to say there is something I like about the old
school format of this list. With so many platforms oversaturated with
photos these days, it can be refreshing to be limited to bare-bones text.
Devon and I had a discussion once about how the text-only format of Arachne
encourages more in-depth theoretical conversations that tend to happen in
Bobbin lace Facebook groups, where most often people post photos of their
work and receive comments of praise, but it doesn't foster long
conversations. For example, Devon described a discussion that happened once
on Arachne debating whether Communism or Democracy were better for
lacemakers.

However, I don't disagree with the idea of changing platforms, if we could
figure out how to do it smoothly. My only concern is less tech-savvy
members being left behind. I'd also like to float the idea of an Arachne
"Zoom" meet up - the video meeting chat platform, if anyone is interested.
We had a Brooklyn Lace Guild meeting on Zoom and it was great fun to see
each other. I just hope that during the the global shutdown we can at least
have more discussions here online, wherever that may be!

Stay well everyone!
Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Re: Czech lace tablecloth

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

By the way, I have some better detail photos than the ones on the website
that I'm happy to share privately if you're interested! Just let me know.
Best,
Elena

>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Czech lace tablecloth

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hi Arachne!

I hope you are all staying safe and healthy indoors during these strange
times.

I'm doing a little bit of research into this lace-trimmed tablecloth and
was wondering if any of our Czech community could tell me anything about it:

https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/229528?searchField=AllsortBy=Relevancedeptids=12when=A.D.+1900-presentwhere=Czechoslovakiaft=laceoffset=0rpp=20pos=1

Having done some quick preliminary research it looks like the donor Ludmila
Brumlik may have been a Czech doctor who emigrated to Montclair, NJ. I'm
very interested in trying to figure out the region where this may have been
made, or even a potential maker? Any leads are much appreciated!

Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Left handed tricks?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

>
> Thank you Alice and Adele for sharing your approaches! I'm going to try
> every explanation with my students and see what sticks.

I have also noticed that students interpret "clockwise" and
"counter-clockwise" differently when they are winding, so I've stopped
explaining things that way. It's funny how trying to be more clear can
complicate things further sometimes!

Thank you all again. I hope that my left-handed students will all benefit
from your advice!
Best Wishes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Left handed tricks?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Good morning Arachne!

I have a question for you all. I have been teaching beginning bobbin
lacemaking for four years now, and have probably taught around 400 people,
so I feel very comfortable with it.

However, in every class I have at least a couple of left-handed people, who
sometimes struggle with the winding and hitching process. I managed to
figure out how to teach left-handed winding fairly easily, so now that is
no longer a problem. However, hitching has still been a challenge, because
I myself struggle to hitch bobbins the left-handed way so it is hard for me
to teach.

Can any left-handed bobbin lacemakers on here point me to a video of
left-handed hitching that I can practice from? Or perhaps walk me through
your steps? I don't want my left-handed students to fall behind!

Thanks so much.
Best WIshes,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Searching for a book?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello everyone,

I was reading an M. Jourdain article on Brussels lace (see link below) for
some research, and I found a reference to a book by a Mrs. Calderwood
titled "Mrs. Calderwood's Journey Through Holland and Belgium" from 1756.
This is certainly intriguing, but I have searched on Worldcat, Archive.org
and several other library and old book sites, and I can't find a copy of it
anywhere. Google has not been forthcoming either. Does anyone have a copy
of this book or know where I can find one?

Thank you all!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Dutch Lace Pillow Question

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Adele,

I have read about the use of a little scrap of fabric or bag used to hold
the finished lace while you are still working. Apparently it was typically
dark blue to keep the lace bright white (an old laundress's trick, add blue
dye to your whites). Perhaps dark blue could appear black in a shadowy
painting?
Very interesting indeed!

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Dutch Lace Pillow Question

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello everyone,

I have a question about lace pillows in the 17th century Dutch Republic
that I hope you can help me with.

I'm giving a talk at the end of the week on lacemaking in Holland in the
17th century, focusing mainly around Nicolaes Maes's 1656 portrait "The
Lacemaker" (as seen at the link).
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/436932?=All=Relevance=the+lacemaker=0=20pos=1


Although I have combed through several books that discuss global bobbin
pillow types (such as Gertrude Whiting's Tools and Toys of Stitchery) there
is not much information on Dutch pillows.The pillow pictured appears to be
similar to one of the Belgian pillows pictured in Whiting's book, which
makes sense, but there is not much detail about it. It is certainly I type
I have seen depicted but not described often.

Can anyone point me towards more specific information?

Thank you very much!
All the Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Blonde in the 18th century

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello everyone,

Devon and I have been discussing this mantilla in person today and I showed
her this handy little PDF from the V on lace identification which I
thought you might all enjoy. Not as thorough as Earnshaw of course but
still great.
Here's the link:
http://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Lace-Booklet.pdf


Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Beginners

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello all,

I completely agree Alex! I start my students with Torchon but if the struggle 
with the steps I have them do some braiding first. 

My goal as an instructor is primarily to get students excited about lace and to 
understand what they are doing so they can go off into the world and make lace 
on their own. And it works! A few people discover that lace is not for them, 
but many students send me pictures of their work later on and some even join 
our guild.

Because my main introduction to lace was a four month trip researching 
lacemaking on a grant across Europe, I have picked up various tricks along the 
way and combined them to make my own style. I warn my students that if they 
take another class down the line with a more traditional instructor they might 
be told their methods are “wrong.” Of course the reality is that there are 
many, many ways to make lace lace, and as long as the final result is beautiful 
it doesn’t matter how you get there.

In fact, this was the principal lesson we learned recently in South African 
lace artist Pierre Fouché’s workshop. He combines Flemish lace and point ground 
lace in his work and even uses macrame knots to secure his stitches. Of course 
his style is contemporary and not traditional, but the results are incredibly 
beautiful. It was very liberating to learn about his methods.

I’d love to hear what some other students in Pierre’s class thought about it 
and how you think it will impact your own approach to lacemaking? What were the 
highlights for you? I’m sure the Arachnids who couldn’t attend would be glad to 
hear about it.

All the Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Needle lace in Chicago?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello everyone,

I hope you are all having a great week!

Brooklyn Lace Guild recently had an email from a woman in Chicago who is
interested in needle lace and is looking for more contacts in her area. She
took an Aemelia Ars class in Italy a few years ago and has continued to
work from books.

I sent her information about the Illinois chapter of IOLI, Lacemakers and
Collectors Exchange, but I thought I'd reach out on Arachne as well! Let me
know if you fit the description of know any needle lacemakers in her area
and I will put you in touch with her.

All the Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Beginning bobbin lace

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

That’s a good question Ann! Like you, I see people sharing so many incredibly 
large projects they’ve completed and I wonder where they find the time!

Personally, all of the fruits of my labor in the six years since I began making 
bobbin lace can essentially fit in a single envelope. To be fair, I have 
traveled extensively, gotten two degrees, and gotten married during this period 
so I have been busy. Currently I work 40 hours a week plus run a guild & teach 
Torchon lace, so I only have about five hours a week to work on my own 
projects. But I hope to find more time!

I’m curious to see everyone else’s replies as well.

Have a lovely Sunday!
Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] What is the best way to start bobbin lace?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

As a millennial I will just chime in to say that today’s young people are not 
as divided in taste as perhaps they were in the past. You might be surprised to 
find that many girls like dinosaurs & trucks, and many boys like pink & 
flowers. The easiest way is just to offer everyone the same range of choices 
and let them decide! If you want to attract young people and children to 
lacemaking, which Brooklyn Lace Guild has been successful in doing, an updated 
approach might help. :)

Also I agree with the suggestions of the Bobbin lacemakers Facebook group! 
There are lots of beginners in there, and people to help them.

Hope everyone is staying warm today!
Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Alice Howell hacked?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

It definitely seems like an email from a hacked account. I would hesitate
to actually purchase the gift card without speaking with her directly!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Armenian Lacemakers?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello everyone,

I hope you're all having a wonderful week!

As many of you know, I started a new job in October as the Collections
Specialist at the Antonio Ratti Textile Center at the Metropolitan Museum
of Art. My job mainly consists of holding viewings of textiles with
curators, conservators, and members of the public. I am also responsible
for pulling things in and out of storage and carefully unpacking and
repacking them. This means that I get to see a lot of incredible lace, as
it makes up 5,000 pieces of our 33,000 piece collection!

Today we had a visitor from California named Deborah Valoma who is
interested in meeting other Armenian lacemakers in the U.S. and beyond. She
is the former head of the Textiles Department at the California College of
Arts in Northern California, and recently inherited a collection of over
200 pieces of lace made by her Armenian grandmother. Does anyone know of
any Armenian lacemakers that I can connect her with? She would be so
thrilled to get in touch.

She also has a young student in her program who makes lace that she's going
to put me in touch with. She was really intrigued by the "Lace, Not Lace"
catalogue that was sitting out in the Ratti Library so I gave her a copy
that Devon had left for us to share.
How nice to be surprised with a visiting lacemaker!

Thanks in advance everyone for your help! Any and all information would be
great.

All the Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Lace, not Lace

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Devon,

How wonderful! I am so thrilled for you!!! I knew it would be a splendid 
success.
Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Lace teacher in Venice

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Olga,

I took private needle lace lessons in Burano at Martina Vidal lace shop.
They have several lacemakers who work there and at the museum demonstrating
lacemaking who offer classes, and they are also able to arrange lessons. It
was absolutely lovely! There is more information about their classes on the
website: https://www.martinavidal.com/en/lace.aspx

Best of Luck!
Elena

>
>

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Re: Starching question!

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Thank you to everyone who responded to my starching question! Apologies that I 
couldn’t reply individually, I’m up to my ears in bobbins but I really do 
appreciate it.

I have come to the conclusion that the best idea for this project is to use 
magic sizing rather than starch, so the piece has more body but isn’t too 
stiff. This way hopefully the silk will not lose it’s sheen, as I’m only 
spraying the back side. 

Thank you again!
Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Starching question!

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hi everyone,

I've been really enjoying everyone's conversations lately. Though I've
started some replies, they've languished in the draft box due to my busy
schedule, oops!

I have a question for all of you lovely lacemakers. I'm working on a very
special and exciting project that I cannot wait to share, but for now it
must remain a secret. This project will be worn and thus requires
starching, but I have never had to starch a bobbin lace project before. Of
course I have many books in my library that discuss it, but I'm not sure
which is best.

The piece is is being worked in three sections (moved twice), so my
instinct is to starch before unpinning each time so that it doesn't warp.
I'm using half stitch & torchon ground in 50/2 Egyptian cotton with a 2-ply
Japanese silk gimp, so I'm nervous about it getting misshapen.

What is the best way to starch on a pillow? I also fear that the pins could
rust and mark the piece that is white... I'm not concerned about damaging
the pillow however, as I have loads.

Thanks in advance for your help! I look forward to your advice!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] World Congress thank you!

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello everyone,

I must second Liz in expressing my gratitude to the incredible organizers
of the World Lace Congress in Brugge. What an amazing experience to be
surrounded by hundreds of lacemakers for a week.

I had a wonderful class with Chantal Ferrier in Valenciennes, it was a
great group, and additionally it was fun to interact with other lacemakers
in different classes as well.

My gratitude to Jeri as well for organizing a lovely dinner. It was so nice
to put faces to so many names on this list!

Although I couldn't make it on the tour, I am eager to see some photos
(Devon, if you're reading this, I'm looking at you). :) My mind is still
whirring from the wealth of knowledge and beauty that I witnessed. Already
excited for Estonia in 2020.

My only regret was not saying a proper good bye to everyone, but perhaps
it's easier that way. 'Til we meet again!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Working all 4 bobbins in your hands at once

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

I'm not sure what video you are referring to, but it sounds like they were
working palms-up on a bolster pillow (which is how I learned in Slovenia).
You are able to work with all four bobbins in your hands that way.

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] The archetype of the lacemaker

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

I agree with your assessment Marianne and thank you for the eloquent reply.
In my research it seems opioid use was more of a a 19th-century phenomenon
when factory work was displacing lacemakers and increasing hardships. And
these stereotypes are generally overblown - it'd be interesting to dig
deeper into medical records perhaps to see if any statistics could be
sussed out, but it's unlikely.
-Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] The archetype of the lacemaker

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Sharon,

Yes, I have read this as well. Actually when I was researching my article on 
English lace history for the Met timeline I came across several early 
19th-century references to lacemakers as being opium addicts whose children 
rarely made it out of childhood. This was of course when machines had begun to 
take their jobs. Heartbreaking.

- Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] The archetype of the lacemaker

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

My understanding is the story "The Lacemaker" is using the title as a
reference to the archetype of the long-suffering lacemaker. You know, the
one that sits at her pillow fifteen hours a day in a damp basement until
she goes blind by age thirty. E.g.: the woman in the movie does everything
silently to make the man happy but to no avail.

Which leads me to the question, something I've been thinking about a lot
lately - do we really believe the lacemaker was a long-suffering figure?

Yes, we know that lacemakers were undervalued and underpaid, and I have
done substantial research into the overlap between lacemakers and
prostitutes, as there was movement in both directions between these two
occupations for impoverished women.
But I have also seen frequent reference to complaints in English villages
for example, that women so much preferred to stay in and make lace that it
was difficult to find female agricultural workers. So the work was
"easier," relatively speaking, at least easier than back-breaking farm
labor.
Then of course, there is all of the recent discussions we had about how
lacemakers were able to read patterns and make lace without the use of
diagrams - making it a very stimulating activity and not at all akin to the
maddening repetition of factory work, for example. (Of course, there are
far more examples on both sides of this argument.)

To answer my own question, I'm sure the answer is "it depends." But I'd
love to hear everyone else's thoughts on the matter!

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] more on lace designs as writing systems

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Sharon,

This is the way for lacemaking students. Or at least, it’s how I learned and 
how I teach my students, but it seems very common. You learn one stitch at a 
time and then combine them later to create more complex patterns.

- Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Making lace before diagrams

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Thanks for your answer Sue! I'm wondering what kind of lace you were
learning predominantly? I could see this being easier perhaps for certain
laces than others?

Personally I learned while traveling so I studied bobbin lace with multiple
teachers across Europe, which allowed me to cobble together a personal
approach. I agree that I prefer to have the ability to "read" lace patterns
on my own and make decisions, but diagrams are helpful when I get stuck!

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Making lace before diagrams

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Liz R brings up the point about how historically, lacemakers did not have
the benefit of detailed diagrams and would have had to keep the designs in
their head, even for complex lace like Binche. Devon and I were just
talking about this the other day at the Yale lace event and it was boggling
our minds.

Simpler types of lace like guipure would have been easy enough to figure
out but for a wide piece of something like Binche or Mechlin would be
incredibly difficult!

Does anyone have further insight on following complex patterns without a
diagram? And when we think diagrams evolved? I saw a student's workbook
from the turn of the century on display at the Rococo Lace Manufactory in
Brugge that used color coding so it was at least in practice by then. Would
lacemakers have worked out the pattern by drawing it perhaps? Or was it
really all in their heads? Any primary sources for this?

Stimulating conversation as always!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] mathematicians, IT engineers and lacemaking

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello all,

The seemingly natural attraction of those in the STEM field to lacemaking
has fascinated me for some time. I remember attending Ithaca Lace Day a
couple of years ago and after repeatedly hearing that so-and-so was a
mathematician or scientist, and I was intrigued by the connection. My
explanation for bobbin lace structure to the uninitiated is that it's like
a circuit board - you have figure out how to connect pairs of bobbins
across your pillow. I think this is a fertile subject and have personally
considered researching it further for a possible article topic.

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Interesting article - Lolita Goth

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Janice,

Adding to what Devon wrote, it’s an unfortunate coincidence that the
Japanese street style known as Gothic Lolita shares part of its name
with Nabokov's novel. Even to this day many Japanese are unfamiliar
with the book, and simply like the sound of the word Lolita as it
sounds western and cute. I am actually writing a little bit about
Lolita in my essay for Devon's lace catalogue so hopefully that will
shed some more light. The style is often criticized by outsiders as
infantilizing young women, but really in Japanese traditional society
it allows young women to escape the pressures of school / marriage /
housewifery (as women are still expected to give up their jobs) and
rather live as a sort of Peter Pan. Many girls enter the fashion while
they're young and wear it well into adulthood. There are also many
subsets of Lolita; Gothic Lolita is just one, but it also includes
Sweet Lolita, Classic Lolita, Wa Lolita, Country Lolita, etc.

Here's some more information about it, from Lolitas themselves rather
than journalists:
https://lolita-handbook.livejournal.com/3035.html
http://onthedm.com/style/anatomy-of-lolita-style/

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Lace reporting

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Thank you Devon for that wonderful explanation! 
I apologize that I didn’t share the “Lace Unveiled” event with Arachne sooner, 
I had included it on all of our social media platforms and in the BLG email 
newsletter- if anyone would like to subscribe to that, please let me know! In 
the future I will share to Arachne as well. 

I should add that I will be demonstrating & teaching a beginner workshop at 
Lace Unveiled, so they are not in need of another demonstrator but hopefully 
some Arachne members will be able to join us and enjoy the tour! We will also 
have a table of antique lace  from Devon’s collection for visitors to view. 

I hope to see some of you there!
Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Japanese interest in lacemaking

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Devon,

Yes, the Japanese definitely have a love of all things lace! I recall going
to an exhibition of antique lace in Shibuya, Tokyo back in 2010 or 2011 I
believe? Unfortunately I just stumbled upon it so I have no idea where this
was. This was around when I started looking for a lace teacher, so perhaps
this exhibition was the source of my interest!

When I was in Tokyo last summer walking around Ura-Harajuku (a very
fashion-forward district where many of the wildest Japanese fashions
emerged, my husband pointed out a sign that said "Lace Shop." I think I
disappeared so fast to check it out I was just a blur. I ended up chatting
with the lovely owners for a bit, and it turns out they offer classes but
only in Princess lace. They offered a selection of antique for sale,
although I'm not sure where they source it from.

I bought their book "Sekai no Kawaii Le-su" which they translate to "Lace
design of the World" but more accurately translates to "Cute lace of the
world." ;) It is a short overview of lace all over Europe and beyond,
including techniques from as far as Paraguay, Turkey, and Sri Lanka. In the
back, it includes a list of lace shops in Japan, some of which appear to be
run by Westerners. Here are the best few:

http://mirabelka.ocnk.net/
http://e-macrame.com/
http://sumireno.com/
http://miyaco.net/
http://d-s-goodmoon.net/craft.html

I hope that helps!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Arachne Anniversary

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

I’m really enjoying reading everyone’s lace origin and Arachne stories! Thank 
you all for sharing. 

3000 members on Arachne - wow, that’s impressive! I’m wondering, Avital, if you 
might be able to give us an updated count? I’m curious too!

Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Lacemaker survey

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachne,

I hope you all had a lovely weekend!

As some of you may know, I'm currently finishing up my MA thesis on the
topic of making lace by hand in a modern world. The majority of my research
comes from interviews with lacemakers that I conducted in 2015, in Croatia,
Slovenia, Italy, France, Spain, and Belgium.
Over the course of writing up this research, I have realized how important
it is to document this information across a wider demographic of
lacemakers, to have a record for the future.

For that reason, I thought I would share my interview questions with you
all and see if anyone wanted to share their answers. I did so enjoy reading
about the lace revival of the 1970s, and how several Arachnids learned to
make lace.

Here are the core questions:

1. Who taught you to make lace?
2. At what age did you start to learn?
3. What attracted you to lacemaking?
4. Where do you see lace going in the future?
5. Why is lace important to you to preserve?

Feel free to answer/not answer any questions as you wish, or add more! To
clarify, this is not to include in my thesis which is nearly complete, but
for the benefit of us all to document our origins.

I will share my own answers as well, but I don't want this email to get too
long!

All the Best,
Elena

Currently writing feverishly about lace rather than making it, in a chilly
NYC "spring."

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] defining lace

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

I actually don’t disagree with you, Gil. I was just “thinking out loud,” let’s 
say. You make a great point about early bobbin lace being more like braiding 
than lace. 

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] What do bobbin and needle lace have in common?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Pardon, I didn't realize we were specifically discussing contemporary examples. 
I was interested in the overall debate. Of course, lots of lace is made in 
color, I myself enjoy making bobbin and needle lace in color as well - although 
I love white too! I love it all, honestly, no matter what one wants to call it. 
:)

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] What do bobbin and needle lace have in common?

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

You bring up a really thought-provoking question, Devon, what DO bobbin and 
needle lace have in common??

When I talk to the uninitiated, I usually describe lace as “an umbrella term 
that covers myriad techniques that vary across regions and history.” But while 
bobbin lace is decidedly only lace, needle lace overlaps with embroidery in a 
way that complicates things.

In a recent viewing of 17th century English embroidery, I noted that some of 
the stitches used to fill in backgrounds behind raised work resembled Hollie 
Point, but in color. But we would not call that lace. Raised work itself is 
obviously a very close relative of needle work, with the difference sometimes 
seeming to only be the use of white vs color. 
I’ve also been researching early English lace as you all know, and it seems 
like most early references to needle lace lump it in with embroidery, whereas 
“lace” alone denotes bobbin lace, but not in all cases. 

So how do we distinguish? A truly perplexing question indeed.

Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Re: Lace, Not Lace Reaction to Needle Lace Revival Arachne comments 3/28/18

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Arachnids,

A very good point was made by both Jeri and Catherine about how lacemakers
with more experience in working with traditional techniques are sometimes
overlooked in favor of younger, less experienced artists. I think there are
a lot of factors involved in this.

When the general public looks at a piece of lace, as Devon previously
pointed out, they cannot distinguish the fine stitches, so the smaller,
more complex pieces may appear less interesting than larger ones with
thicker thread. In the case of the work of Penny Nickels and Maggie Hansel
Brown, I think the appeal is their unusual subject matter for a piece of
lace. Nickels has used dark or subversive subjects for lace, like the
Jersey Devil piece and the fighting scorpions, and Brown chooses
particularly mundane aspects of daily life, which are unusual to highlight
in a time-consuming technique like needle lace. I think this is what people
find attractive and interesting about their work, myself included. Most
people that look at it won't realize that their technique may not be
exactly historically correct.

However, this is not to say that traditional lace designs are any less
interesting, they absolutely are valuable and beautiful as well. I
personally would like to focus on learning the more traditional and complex
laces that are in danger of slipping away. I think there is room for all
styles to be celebrated!

Additionally, in today's world, there is the issue of social media and
marketing. A lot of these younger artists have audiences on social media
that have never seen or engaged with lace before, which is great of course.
But the general public has a huge knowledge gap about lace history that
needs to be remedied, and in doing so give rightful credit to the many
lacemakers (like the members of this list) who have devoted their lives to
the craft.

And finally, there is of course, ageism. I have experienced repeatedly that
Devon will have been saying something for years about lace and is not
listened to, but when I say it, as a thirty-something with pink hair and
"out there" fashion, it is suddenly heard and seen as a fresh or
interesting idea. This is frustrating, but I try to use the small platform
that I have to highlight lacemakers that have come before me. Overall, I
sense a new "revival" brewing, and I think that is a good thing, even if it
takes a different shape than previous lace revivals.

I for one am very excited for Lace, Not Lace!

Best,
Elena

On Thu, Mar 29, 2018 at 12:34 PM, Jeri Ames  wrote:

> Lace, Not Lace: Contemporary Fiber Art from Lacemaking Techniques ?Do
> you think - Not Lace - might be more appropriate than originally intended ?
>
> Some of us may not be on the same wave length as Needle Lace Revivalists.
>
> A comment is in order from someone whose lace and embroidery studies and
> reading history is way above normal.  Personally owning (and having read)
> over 4,000 books on lace and embroidery surely qualifies.  Please remember
> embroiderers consider needle lace to be embroidery because it is made with
> a threaded needle.  From an educational point of view, it is important to
> be able to distinguish between what we have always thought about lace and
> what is being presented in this exhibit as - Not Lace.
>
> Perhaps the - Not Lace - is more appropriate than most of us first thought.
>
> Others who agree should feel free to bravely comment that some examples of
> the Needle Lace Revival  (discussed extensively yesterday) vulgarize
> long-established traditional needle lace techniques and design principles.
>
> Have you ever been breathless when viewing an exceptional lace made by
> someone like Catherine Barley?  My wish is that one lace by Catherine (or a
> quality photo) could be in the exhibit - for comparison, since at least one
> of the needle lace revivalists claims to have studied her work.  Will the
> public be short-changed because they do not see any lace examples that
> inspired revivalists?
>
> Are we being overly polite, waiting for someone else to defend the laces
> we have grown to love after many years of study?  Does that indicate a
> demeaning of the time it takes to become a lace master?
>
> At this stage in history, any lace exhibit is better than none.  In a
> world that does not equally acknowledge art created by women by showing it
> in anywhere near equal quantities to that of men in our greatest museums
> (which are supported by disproportionate tax funding and volunteer work
> provided by women), Devon Thein is on a brave mission to expose the
> public to a different perspective about lace.  She is acknowledging that
> young lace artists of today (usually female) make affordable laces that can
> be sold.  She is a dear personal friend to many of us, and we hope the
> exhibit she is curating is very successful.
>
> At the same time, dear Arachne subscribers, please do not feel you should
> abandon your values because it seems others are doing so.

Re: [lace] Lace Revival of the 1970s

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Just chiming in to say this is all very interesting and I look forward to 
reading this all more carefully later!
Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Question about early English lace

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Thank you Laurie, and thank you everyone for your responses! Seems I had a 
right to be suspicious.
Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Question about early English lace

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello all!

I am researching the development of the lace industry at the moment, and I have 
a fairly extensive bibliography, but there is one reference that I have only 
seen in one place.

In Thomas Wright’s “Romance of the Lace Pillow,” on page 8 he makes a 
distinction between bone lace as being finer, and bobbin lace as being coarser. 
My other trusted sources (Levey, Palliser, Earnshaw, etc) make no distinction, 
and my understanding has always been that bone lace is just an early name for 
bobbin lace. What say you all? Are there any other sources to support this or 
should I take it with a grain of salt?

Thank you!
Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] #lacesupport2018

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

That is wonderful Angharad! Bravo! Do you mind if I share this with the 
Brooklyn Lace Guild? We might have some followers interested. :)

Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Winding Idrija bobbins for use "plams up" on a bolster

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Interesting! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

I also noted while studying in Barcelona that bobbins were wound 
counter-clockwise. Sadly, for the life of me I could just not get the hitch 
right! The clockwise hitch is eternally cemented in my brain.

The instructor of said class told me that it is necessary to wind 
counter-clockwise for hanging bobbins, and others have echoed this in the 
conversation. But I wonder, why is that? I’m curious. It isn’t clear to me why 
that would make a difference. 

Best,
Elena

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] NT Santina levey article

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Dear Amanda,

Thank you so much for sharing this link!
I’m a new member and very grateful to have access to the rich knowledge shared 
by Jeri. I look forward to more!
Best,
Elena 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 8, 2017, at 09:24, Amanda Richards  
> wrote:
> 
> For those who have not found the article if you go to
> https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/features/art-and-collection-resources and
> scroll down the page to the Arts, Buildings and Collections Bulletins it is
> in the latest one. You can down load it to read at you leisure. You can also
> subscribe to receive it in your e-mail, you do not have to be a  member as
> far as I can see.
> 
> 
> 
> I too am one who does not get Jeri's e-mails, I prefer to receive my e-mails
> individually for reasons demonstrated over the last few days and can also
> save those I would like to refer to later.
> 
> 
> 
> Amanda
> 
> 
> 
> Nottingham, England
> 
> -
> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
> arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Bucks Prickings

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hi everyone,

I hope I’m understanding this correctly. When I studied Spanish Blonde at the 
Lace association in Barcelona in 2015, the same thing was explained to me about 
pinning only on either side of the tulle. I also did not prick the pattern. I 
did however use a pin in every stitch of tulle, because I was a beginner and 
wanted more security.

Best,
Elena 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 5, 2017, at 16:53, Maria Greil  wrote:
> 
> Hello Annette,
> 
> What you write about Spanish blonde has made me very curious. Would you
> mind telling us a little bit more about the 'very old prickings' an English
> speaking Spanish lace historian gave you for the Gild collection? As much
> as you tell (and Antje already found out and perfectly described) it can
> only be Almagro blonde.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Maria Greil
> a German lacemaker living in Spain
> 
> 2017-12-03 22:55 GMT+01:00 Annette Meldrum :
> 
>> Hi all,
>> Interesting discussions.
>> In Spain, I was given some very old Spanish blonde prickings for our lace
>> guild archive. The lacemaker who donated them, explained that the ground
>> was only pricked in each alternate row as lacemakers only pinned alternate
>> rows to make the work quicker. She is a lacemaker and lace historian, so I
>> trust her knowledge.
>> The prickings are well used and indeed only pricked in alternate rows.
>> Annette, enjoying an unusually rainy and cool day, in Wollongong Australia.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: Diana Smith
>> Hi Alex
>> Like you I’ve studied many old prickings over the years but very few
>> without the ground pricked.
>> 
>> I have a theory, that in order to save time when working large areas of
>> point ground some workers would work a row of stitches without pinning up,
>> at the end of the row the pins were inserted into the pricked holes all in
>> one go. One worker bobbin would follow a row and would therefore be used to
>> tension the work. I’ve tried this and it works well.
>> 
>> Diana
>> 
>> -
>> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
>> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
>> arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
>> 
>> 
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>> 
>> -
>> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
>> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
>> arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
>> 
> 
> -
> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
> arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Introduction

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello Nancy,

Thank you so much for your suggestions! I will pass that along.

Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

[lace] Introduction

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Hello all,

As a new member of Arachne I wanted to introduce myself. My name is Elena 
Kanagy-Loux, I’m a bobbin lacemaker, graduate student, and one of the founders 
of the Brooklyn Lace Guild. 

I also have a question! One of the students in my program is writing about 
lacemaking in Puerto Rico (including crochet). I wondered if anyone had any 
idea where she could look for information on the history of lacemaking in PR? 

Thanks so much!
Best,
Elena 

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

Re: [lace] Trying to fill class in Manhattan Dec. 6

[Elena Kanagy-Loux]

Thank you Devon for sharing! The class is a basic Torchon 101 including setting 
up a pillow, cloth stitch, half stitch, and whole stitch.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Best,
Elena

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 29, 2017, at 15:32, DevonThein  wrote:
> 
>  From 6:30 to 9:30pm. It’s a great opportunity to try your hand at
> lacemaking for the first time, or to refresh your memory! Sign up at the
> link: https://campscui.active.com/orgs/TextileArtsCenter
> 
> Devon
> 
> -
> To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
> unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
> arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

-
To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line:
unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to
arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/