Re: [MBZ] Third Row Seating

2005-07-26 Thread Marshall Booth
Every 123 and 124 wagon was available with a 3rd seat. It was an option
- NOT standard (although MOST later US delivered wagons came with them).

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D. 
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




Re: [MBZ] Dial Indicator - Measuring Runout

2005-07-26 Thread Don Teresa Merriman
OK Dan I am on your side,well we do not need sides, I just agree with you.

On 7/25/05, BenzBarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
 
 Ok, I'm talking about the same thing. It's not nice to call people names
 just because they have a different point of view. And I got called lots of
 interesting names...
 
 I fully understand that if I would have disagreed with some virtual 
 unknown
 on the list no one would have even noticed. Who you disagree with around
 here seems to matter. Not that I'm always right but neither are the gods
 always right.
 
 BTW I've been around as long as most of you. I'm no newbie and I know that
 MB is god around here. Every list has it's guru - I'm not comfortable with
 people fawning all over them or me.
 
 regards to everyone,
 happy Dan
 
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 For new parts see www.buymbparts.com http://www.buymbparts.com
 For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com http://www.oldworldauto.com
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 



-- 
Don  Teresa Merriman
Market Place Mexico
Vacation Rentals
Property Administration


Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread Marshall Booth
Stu Ritter (former Mercedes shop owner and technical editor of The Star
magazine) says that to properly afford to maintain a 6.3 or 6.9 you need
the inome from a religion or at least a small country!

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D. 
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]




[MBZ] check out my latest aquisition

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7988308620rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AITrd=1
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] check out my latest aquisition

2005-07-26 Thread Kevin
On Mon, Jul 25, 2005 at 07:03:19PM -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7988308620rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AITrd=1

Cool snag. FWIW, my brother's 78 300D had similar issues. Replacing one
injector and driving the hell out of it for about 5000 miles cleared it 
up. 

K



[MBZ] sleeve puller

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-Sleeve-Puller-Diesel-300D-Not-SL_W0QQitemZ4563888477QQcategoryZ43996QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



[MBZ] this should be of interest to somebody

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Diesel-1968-Mercades-Benz-300-Diesel-Good-Interior_W0QQitemZ4563846203QQcategoryZ6315QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread Mitch Haley
Marshall Booth wrote:
 
 Stu Ritter (former Mercedes shop owner and technical editor of The Star
 magazine) says that to properly afford to maintain a 6.3 or 6.9 you need
 the inome from a religion or at least a small country!

I thought that was for the 600.
The 280SEL 6.3 or 450SEL 6.9 should only cost 1/3 the revenue stream of the
cult of scientology.



[MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
OK, on my latest 83 wagon, the story is kid kit a curb, dumped oil out. 
 Ever since has a loud knock.  Anyways, messing with it today, sounds 
like it might be coming from #2.  If it was a rod knocking and not just 
a loud diesel knock, would it still knock when the offending injector 
line is loosened?  On this one, seems to have a knock no matter which is 
loosed, and all cylinders seem to be firing evenly.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread Jeff Zedic
If it is a rod knocking it'll still be moving whether the cylinder is 
firing or not; hence the noise stays the same.


Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
83 300D



Re: [MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread Kevin
On Mon, Jul 25, 2005 at 07:25:48PM -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 OK, on my latest 83 wagon, the story is kid kit a curb, dumped oil out. 
   Ever since has a loud knock.  Anyways, messing with it today, sounds 
 like it might be coming from #2.  If it was a rod knocking and not just 
 a loud diesel knock, would it still knock when the offending injector 
 line is loosened?  On this one, seems to have a knock no matter which is 
 loosed, and all cylinders seem to be firing evenly.

Rod knock should not be dependent on the cylinder firing. If anything, the
knock might be a teense quieter when the offending rod's cylinder is not
firing.

I'd probably yank the oil pan to see if you're [still] getting bearing 
material in the pan. Usually a spun bearing will have torn through part of
the bearing. 617 cranks are ridiculously hard, you can probably slap
a set of bearings on it for cheap and have a good runner for a while. Not
sure if that'll be easier than locating a runner wagon engine, or swapping a
wagon head onto a runner sedan/coupe engine.

K



Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread degcoast

So what kind of religion would it tae? Maybe he could start one.
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.
- Original Message - 
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] need info



Stu Ritter (former Mercedes shop owner and technical editor of The Star
magazine) says that to properly afford to maintain a 6.3 or 6.9 you need
the inome from a religion or at least a small country!

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D. 
Ass't Prof. (ret.)

Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

thats what I thought, just wanted to verify.

Jeff Zedic wrote:

If it is a rod knocking it'll still be moving whether the cylinder is 
firing or not; hence the noise stays the same.


Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
83 300D

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

wonder if the bearings can be done just by dropping the pan?

Kevin wrote:


On Mon, Jul 25, 2005 at 07:25:48PM -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

OK, on my latest 83 wagon, the story is kid kit a curb, dumped oil out. 
 Ever since has a loud knock.  Anyways, messing with it today, sounds 
like it might be coming from #2.  If it was a rod knocking and not just 
a loud diesel knock, would it still knock when the offending injector 
line is loosened?  On this one, seems to have a knock no matter which is 
loosed, and all cylinders seem to be firing evenly.



Rod knock should not be dependent on the cylinder firing. If anything, the
knock might be a teense quieter when the offending rod's cylinder is not
firing.

I'd probably yank the oil pan to see if you're [still] getting bearing 
material in the pan. Usually a spun bearing will have torn through part of

the bearing. 617 cranks are ridiculously hard, you can probably slap
a set of bearings on it for cheap and have a good runner for a while. Not
sure if that'll be easier than locating a runner wagon engine, or swapping a
wagon head onto a runner sedan/coupe engine.

K

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] check out my latest aquisition

2005-07-26 Thread degcoast

So is it a turbo or not? Looks like a good acquisition
Dwight Giles
1979 240D auto 244k + miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co.
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes mailing list 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 8:03 PM
Subject: [MBZ] check out my latest aquisition



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7988308620rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AITrd=1
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 





Re: [MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread Kevin
On Mon, Jul 25, 2005 at 07:45:48PM -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 wonder if the bearings can be done just by dropping the pan?

I don't see why not, provided you have small enough fingers and enough
clearance.

It can be done on a straight six jeep, if you don't mind dropping the front
axle.

K



Re: [MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I think on these will probably have to unbolt the engine mounts to raise 
it up enough to get the pan out.


Kevin wrote:


On Mon, Jul 25, 2005 at 07:45:48PM -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


wonder if the bearings can be done just by dropping the pan?



I don't see why not, provided you have small enough fingers and enough
clearance.

It can be done on a straight six jeep, if you don't mind dropping the front
axle.

K

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread Steve MacSween
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 OK, on my latest 83 wagon, the story is kid kit a curb, dumped oil out.
 Ever since has a loud knock.  Anyways, messing with it today, sounds
 like it might be coming from #2.  If it was a rod knocking and not just
 a loud diesel knock, would it still knock when the offending injector
 line is loosened?  On this one, seems to have a knock no matter which is
 loosed, and all cylinders seem to be firing evenly.

Are you listening with a stethascope? If not, go out and buy one, the
screwdriver technique is vastly overrated (and NOT PRECISE, LoL).

A rod knock should be constant, even if the injector line is cracked, and
should increase with rpms. The rule is it should be louder when the engine
is cold, right?

The stethascope is useful because it will help to eliminate the DOH factor,
such as the vacuum pump and the alternator.

What is the damage supposed to be? If he drained the pan, and you only hear
knocking from one cylinder, man you made out like a bandit on this one. Be
careful about running it or revving it too much, lest you spin that bearing
and then it's GOODBYE TOKYO!

That applies double if you even suspect he damaged the oil pump pickup.

Mac




Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread Steve MacSween
someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I thought that was for the 600.
 The 280SEL 6.3 or 450SEL 6.9 should only cost 1/3 the revenue stream of the
 cult of scientology.

Both are likely to involve audits. LoL.

Mac




Re: [MBZ] check out my latest aquisition

2005-07-26 Thread Steve MacSween
someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7988308620rd=1;
 sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AITrd=1

Oh, aren't we getting bold in our old age?

You need to sell me either this one or that knocking wagon. Really.

Mac




[MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

2005-07-26 Thread Tom Hargrave
 


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 1:49 PM
To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices
Subject: Today's Diesel Prices

**  **  **   *
****   *  *  ***   U.S. Department of Energy**
  **  ** * Energy Information Administration *
**** ******* To unsubscribe/change address, **
**  **  **  **   * see the message footnotes *
 *
EIA, the Nation's clearinghouse for energy statistics. ***
**

(NOTE: To best view this document, your email software should be set to view
the item in an 80 character format, using a non-proportional font, e.g.
courier)
**

  On-highway diesel prices, by week and PADD
(Self Service Cash Price in Dollars per Gallon, Including Taxes)

Diesel Prices Web URL:
http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/wohdp/diesel.asp   


  US

 NATL  EASTNEWCENTLOWER   GULF   ROCKY   WEST

 DATEAVG   COAST ENGLAND   ATL ATL   MIDWEST  COAST   MTN   COAST
CA  

   PADD   PADDPADDPADDPADDPADDPADD   PADD

 I IA  IB  IC  II III  IV V

--  -  - ---  -   -  ---  -  -  -
-

050725  2.342  2.365  2.508   2.481   2.303   2.292   2.278  2.405  2.530
2.578
050718  2.392  2.412  2.535   2.521   2.354   2.361   2.331  2.430  2.530
2.589
050711  2.408  2.427  2.533   2.524   2.377   2.384   2.355  2.408  2.526
2.589
050704  2.348  2.370  2.485   2.475   2.315   2.328   2.290  2.328  2.467
2.554
050627  2.336  2.368  2.476   2.461   2.318   2.314   2.288  2.288  2.433
2.522
050620  2.313  2.348  2.442   2.451   2.296   2.294   2.274  2.236  2.391
2.476
050613  2.276  2.308  2.399   2.399   2.261   2.248   2.247  2.210  2.364
2.457
050606  2.234  2.263  2.353   2.343   2.221   2.198   2.213  2.191  2.339
2.421
050530  2.160  2.188  2.320   2.284   2.134   2.111   2.117  2.179  2.317
2.367
050523  2.156  2.181  2.338   2.292   2.119   2.097   2.112  2.207  2.339
2.373
050516  2.189  2.204  2.380   2.315   2.141   2.129   2.141  2.267  2.397
2.432
050509  2.227  2.237  2.389   2.342   2.179   2.157   2.173  2.318  2.481
2.518
050502  2.262  2.264  2.410   2.366   2.207   2.194   2.209  2.355  2.530
2.561
050425  2.289  2.287  2.413   2.382   2.234   2.230   2.231  2.371  2.549
2.570
050418  2.259  2.260  2.418   2.373   2.197   2.194   2.180  2.379  2.554
2.582
050411  2.316  2.306  2.434   2.423   2.244   2.263   2.251  2.399  2.585
2.625
050404  2.303  2.299  2.427   2.412   2.238   2.258   2.240  2.361  2.541
2.581
050328  2.249  2.248  2.374   2.360   2.189   2.203   2.182  2.326  2.483
2.512
050321  2.244  2.245  2.355   2.358   2.186   2.196   2.180  2.313  2.471
2.482
050314  2.194  2.197  2.320   2.309   2.137   2.140   2.130  2.260  2.442
2.418
050307  2.168  2.163  2.288   2.280   2.102   2.113   2.100  2.229  2.450
2.408
050228  2.118  2.117  2.241   2.233   2.056   2.064   2.035  2.174  2.412
2.376
050221  2.020  2.027  2.198   2.154   1.957   1.953   1.943  2.087  2.321
2.259
050214  1.986  2.013  2.197   2.150   1.938   1.935   1.915  2.011  2.190
2.196
050207  1.983  2.025  2.222   2.159   1.950   1.938   1.938  1.967  2.113
2.144
050131  1.992  2.048  2.225   2.172   1.979   1.954   1.940  1.946  2.085
2.126
050124  1.959  2.014  2.180   2.140   1.945   1.928   1.919  1.884  2.027
2.068
050117  1.952  2.009  2.168   2.127   1.944   1.928   1.908  1.877  2.001
2.023
050110  1.934  1.999  2.163   2.133   1.926   1.911   1.876  1.877  1.973
2.014
050103  1.957  2.025  2.180   2.163   1.952   1.929   1.887  1.934  2.011
2.063
041227  1.987  2.045  2.196   2.161   1.982   1.959   1.928  1.961  2.040
2.097
041220  1.984  2.052  2.199   2.171   1.988   1.944   1.922  1.988  2.047
2.087
041213  1.997  2.063  2.206   2.184   1.998   1.953   1.910  2.049  2.097
2.138
041206  2.069  2.111  2.234   2.220   2.053   2.033   1.995  2.124  2.181
2.225
041129  2.116  2.141  2.258   2.252   2.082   2.086   2.053  2.171  2.233
2.287
041122  2.116  2.143  2.258   2.251   2.086   2.083   2.048  2.170  2.242
2.299
041115  2.132  2.159  2.268   2.262   2.105   2.096   2.056  2.215  2.274
2.336
041108  2.163  2.182  2.296   2.278   2.130   2.123   2.096  2.248  2.324
2.386
041101  2.206  2.212  2.330   2.307   2.161   2.172   2.147  2.276  2.370
2.431
041025  2.212  2.213  2.329   2.309   2.161   2.185   2.144  2.278  2.380
2.437
041018  2.180  2.179  2.290   2.267   2.131   2.161   2.115  2.219  2.337
2.394
041011  2.092  2.100  2.212   2.200   2.047   2.055   2.033  2.132  2.276
2.322
041004  2.053  2.058  

Re: [MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread BenzBarn
Rod knocking will get louder as the engine heats up. Cold oil is usually
thick enough to cushion the pounding a bit. On as diesel it may be loud all
the time due to the higher cylinder pressures.




Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread BenzBarn
The saying I heard once was ;

 To have a 6.3 you need to own a bank.

To have a 600 you need to own a country.




Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread BenzBarn
Should work too seeing as there's so many devoted disciples ~)




[MBZ] Creative v-belt substitutes

2005-07-26 Thread meadedillon

Andrew, JGiels, here's the story you're dying to hear:

The other day on the way to work my 300TD's alternator, parking brake
and brake wear lights came on.  The slight thump in the engine
compartment told me the belt broke, I got it to the side of the road
before it heated up.  ( I live in rural NC, we can do that by turning
right and applying the brake ).  (c:

Here's where the story comes in.  I wanted to get the car home, but did
not want to work on it on the side of the road.  I have a $3.99 belt
kit from autozone in the back but did not want to use it for the 6 mile
drive home, instead let's save it for a 'big' emergency.  I didnt want
to use my insurance for a tow, or borrow a trailer, because it was just
too much trouble.  So I got a hand full of tie wraps and made a
temporary belt from the water pump to the crank pulley.  Took 5 as I
remember.  Worked like a champ.  Has a soothing 'tink tink tink' sound
as you drive down the road (with the window open) so you know it is
still there.. heads of the tie wraps hitting the pulleys, etc.  I cut
off the excess, and made the whole belt outside the car but for one
connection.  Then dropped the thing in from the top and crawled under
the car to make the last joint on the crank pulley.  Pulled it down
nice and snug.  Took 5 minutes total.

So when you are replenishing your 'breakdown' kit, think about sticking
in some standard tie wraps.  Might help you out someday.

Richard
300TD with 400K miles and a tinkling fan belt.





Re: [MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Yes, I have a stethescope.  From what I understand, it damaged the oil 
pump and they replaced that etc.  Runs great, just has the knock.


Steve MacSween wrote:


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



OK, on my latest 83 wagon, the story is kid kit a curb, dumped oil out.
Ever since has a loud knock.  Anyways, messing with it today, sounds
like it might be coming from #2.  If it was a rod knocking and not just
a loud diesel knock, would it still knock when the offending injector
line is loosened?  On this one, seems to have a knock no matter which is
loosed, and all cylinders seem to be firing evenly.



Are you listening with a stethascope? If not, go out and buy one, the
screwdriver technique is vastly overrated (and NOT PRECISE, LoL).

A rod knock should be constant, even if the injector line is cracked, and
should increase with rpms. The rule is it should be louder when the engine
is cold, right?

The stethascope is useful because it will help to eliminate the DOH factor,
such as the vacuum pump and the alternator.

What is the damage supposed to be? If he drained the pan, and you only hear
knocking from one cylinder, man you made out like a bandit on this one. Be
careful about running it or revving it too much, lest you spin that bearing
and then it's GOODBYE TOKYO!

That applies double if you even suspect he damaged the oil pump pickup.

Mac


___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] URGENT Need for Viton fuel hoses in Puget Sound

2005-07-26 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 7/25/2005 10:47:22 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Hi,  folks!  I need some Viton fuel lines (return
lines, I think, the ones  that come up from the little
nozzles which come up out of the injectors, I  think is
what they are) and bad!  (My '82 240D is leaking B50
all  over my carport; I thought it'd only leak if the
fuel line was pressurized,  i.e., if the car was
running, but it continued to leak through the  night,
so I tried to clamp off the lines this morning, but I
had to  leave for work, so I don't know how successful
I was - I'm assuming the  worst! :(  Viton tubing was
very strongly recommended in a TDIClub  forum when I
had a similar problem recently with my '03 TDI.)   Does
anyone know who might stock these in the Puget Sound
area,  preferably on the I5 Seattle to Oly corridor? 
Also, what is the required  inside diameter for these
lines for the '82 240D, and does anyone know why  hose
clamps aren't used for additional security - is it the
heat?   Can't one get steel or brass hose clamps if
this is the issue?   Thanks!!!




DG,
 
The factory braided lines will last about 8 years, even using B100.   Why not 
just call Rusty and order a meter of the proper fuel return hose.   It is 
braided so when properly installed, it will not fall off.  forget  about 
clamps.  
Forget about Viton.  With all the money you will be  saving you can afford to 
replace these lines once or twice in the next 20  years.  Don't forget to ask 
for a new end of line plug, yours may have  fallen off.
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles 
98 ML 320, 137 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] this should be of interest to somebody

2005-07-26 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 19:20:52 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Diesel-1968-Mercades-Benz-300-Diesel-Good-Interior_W0QQitemZ4563846203QQcategoryZ6315QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

the car says 300 Diesel, which I was told is a 4 cylinder. I was also
told it can't be a '68, so I'm not sure anymore.


Did they make a 300D in 1968? Any idea what it really is?


Craig



Re: [MBZ] this should be of interest to somebody

2005-07-26 Thread Steve MacSween
someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Did they make a 300D in 1968? Any idea what it really is?

200d, no?

Mac




Re: [MBZ] this should be of interest to somebody

2005-07-26 Thread OK Don
It's a 62-65 190d or 66-67 200D finny, W110.

On 7/25/05, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
  Did they make a 300D in 1968? Any idea what it really is?
 
 200d, no?
 
 Mac
 
 
-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC


Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread Chuck Landenberger

Chris N John,

I would like to reach out and soundly smack all the people on this list 
who have told you that you need to own a country to have a 6.9...
Yes, it can be an expensive car, but for all those guys know, you 
already own a country or an oil company.


I'm VERY, VERY surprised and chagrined at the responses from Marshall, 
et al., and suggest they offer some assistance in identifying problems, 
then suggestions and help/solutions. IT'S OUT OF CHARACTER, WAAAY 
OFF TOPIC AND DOES NOT ADDRESS THE REQUEST FOR HELP!  Isn't that 
what this list is all about!!!


I think an apology is in order from you guys

End of rant...

Chuck
Phoenix, AZ




On Sunday, July 24, 2005, at 09:07  PM, Christy E. Petrich wrote:


Hi Guys!
Just wondering if anybody out there has knowledge about 450 sel 6.9
mercedes we have a 1977 and are looking to learn all we can about it.
Like any car of that age its needing lots of matinence and we're not
quite sure how to do it all. Thanks we are looking forward to hearing
from you!  Chris N John

P.S. not all wifes run the car till its dry ;)

___
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Re: [MBZ] this should be of interest to somebody

2005-07-26 Thread Ed Booher
On 7/25/05, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 It's a 62-65 190d or 66-67 200D finny, W110.
 
Can I get a 250 .. 250 .. 250  do I hear 300?  300D?  Can I get a 400?

-- 
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.



Re: [MBZ] check out my latest aquisition

2005-07-26 Thread redghost

Damn, that is a find!


On Monday, July 25, 2005, at 05:03 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ 
eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7988308620rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT 
rd=1

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
  85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA




Re: [MBZ] this should be of interest to somebody

2005-07-26 Thread Loren Faeth

AND THE WINNER IS:

Mac  (Take a bow)

It is typ 110110 10   A 200D.  Possibly imported from outside the US, not 
through MB dealership.  Clear turnsignals were not used on US models after 
1962.  All cars first registered in the US in 1968 had to have side marker 
lights.  This car does not.  However, there are several indications it is a 
late production 200D, which would make it a 67 or 68.  I'd bet money it is 
a 68.  The /8 series was a little slow getting here by US model year 
standards.  I'd bet it was built in 1967 and titled as a 1968.  In those 
days, if a 67 didn't sell, the dealer sent the MSO in to Jersey and they 
issued a new MSO for 68.  This practice was not limited to MB.


Does anyone have serial number ranges per year for 200Ds?  I know 227xxx is 
a very early 200D and I know that 257xxx is a late 66 200D  If they made 
30,000 a year, then a late 67 would be 287xxx.


It looks like it might have red carpet.  If so, that is odd.  Most 200Ds 
had rubber mats.



At 09:50 PM 7/25/2005, you wrote:

someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Did they make a 300D in 1968? Any idea what it really is?

200d, no?

Mac





Re: [MBZ] this should be of interest to somebody

2005-07-26 Thread BenzBarn
No, it's a 220D.  This is a 115 car right?
   A 200D is a 110 fin car, although there may have been a euro 200D in ' 68
that was a 115 sedan.




Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread BenzBarn
Chuck, Chuck, such hostility... you could hurt yourself

I've worked on both cars and yes they're as fixable as any other. I have a
6.3 for sale  here right now that I did a lot of work on and I've done
several others. I've only worked on one 6.9 but I didn't find it as hard to
work around - kind of similar to a CIS 450SL engine.
The 6.3 engine is a different story. It took me all day or longer to RR the
injection pump on this car. It was running very rich with black clouds of
smoke out the back so I determined that the pump had a problem.  A lot of
stuff has to come off before you can even get near the pump but once I did
get it off, I realised that it had been rebuilt and then installed out of
time to the engine. I put it back on properly and it never missed a beat
after that.

The other thing is the air suspension. It's not rocket science but it still
scares most people away. Once it's operating properly it's a very nice
system. Like all things it needs to be serviced and maintained closely. Neil
at Star Motors did all the rebuilds for me although I've fixed some air
valves myself. The control lever can go over centre and lose contact with
gearing inside. Think of rack and pinion steering - it looks similar to that
inside.

However, the question is about a 6.9  I've seen a few go through Toronto
auction pretty cheap and unless they're nice cars they don't bring too much
on the open market.
 Any low production car will have very specific parts and some pieces will
have prices dreamed up by people on drugs.  The engines are strong as long
as they aren't over heated which happens from pluged rads where the coolant
wasn't changed often enough.  I don't think there's an oil cooler on these
cars, just the big tank in front of the right front wheel filled with 10
litters of oil. It runs very close to the tire and I suppose the air flow
aids in cooling.  I still have the rad from the one I did here and it was
completely clogged. The head gaskets blew out and so the top end had to be
done. Can't say how much that was - it was done at another shop in Toronto.
The struts are probably the biggest expense if they go bad. I imagine
there's an accumulator nearby that can go bad as well and cause a harsh
ride, but that would be less costly. Very smooth powerful cars as I
remember.

I know there's a M100 Group for 6.3, 600 and 6.9  but I don't know the URL.
Maybe someone does. I'm sure we can help this guy out , right gang?




( As for our esteemed friend around here, well I don't know. People say that
he can speak for and defend himself but I never see that happen.  With all
these followers speaking  for him, hey, why would he ever need to ~)

Even on the 113 list where I suppose I might be called some sort of guru ( I
hate that though ) people take me to task if they think I'm wrong. I don't
mind, it keeps me sharp and honest.  Some of my best learning has been from
mistakes I've made - no one is perfect.
Frankly, I believe it's a real mistake to elevate anyone to such a  level
that no one is ever allowed to openly debate ideas and differences with
them. I welcome debate and all of you should too. I came from a family where
you got things off your chest and the next day everyone was friendly again.


regards to all,
 Dan






Re: [MBZ] URGENT Need for Viton fuel hoses in Puget Sound

2005-07-26 Thread David Goldsmith
Well, perhaps you'd like to come clean the gallon plus
of B50 off the floor of my carport.  All I know is
that after only 33K miles this happened to our TDI
about 6 weeks or so ago and at that time we were
advised to replace the hoses, the failed and not
failed, w/ Viton or silicone-based.  We let our
mechanic have his way with our car, but I now know he
didn't use Viton, and given that the hoses he did
install on my 240D soon after I bought it this past
Oct. have failed after only 11,000 miles (he says
today he warrants them for only 6 mo. or 6000 miles)
I'm quite concerned for the TDI as well.  I'll go with
the Viton and if they don't fail within the year, I'll
invite you again to come look at the stains on my
carport floor.

DG

DG

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  
 In a message dated 7/25/2005 10:47:22 A.M. US
 Mountain Standard Time,  
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 Hi,  folks!  I need some Viton fuel lines (return
 lines, I think, the ones  that come up from the
 little
 nozzles which come up out of the injectors, I  think
 is
 what they are) and bad!  (My '82 240D is leaking B50
 all  over my carport; I thought it'd only leak if
 the
 fuel line was pressurized,  i.e., if the car was
 running, but it continued to leak through the 
 night,
 so I tried to clamp off the lines this morning, but
 I
 had to  leave for work, so I don't know how
 successful
 I was - I'm assuming the  worst! :(  Viton tubing
 was
 very strongly recommended in a TDIClub  forum when I
 had a similar problem recently with my '03 TDI.)  
 Does
 anyone know who might stock these in the Puget Sound
 area,  preferably on the I5 Seattle to Oly corridor?
 
 Also, what is the required  inside diameter for
 these
 lines for the '82 240D, and does anyone know why 
 hose
 clamps aren't used for additional security - is it
 the
 heat?   Can't one get steel or brass hose clamps if
 this is the issue?   Thanks!!!
 
 
 
 
 DG,
  
 The factory braided lines will last about 8 years,
 even using B100.   Why not 
 just call Rusty and order a meter of the proper fuel
 return hose.   It is 
 braided so when properly installed, it will not fall
 off.  forget  about clamps.  
 Forget about Viton.  With all the money you will be 
 saving you can afford to 
 replace these lines once or twice in the next 20 
 years.  Don't forget to ask 
 for a new end of line plug, yours may have  fallen
 off.
  
 Regards,  
 
 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 261 K miles 
 98 ML 320, 137 K  miles
 
  ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
 For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

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Re: [MBZ] this should be of interest to somebody

2005-07-26 Thread BenzBarn
I didn't look at the picture, sorry.  Someone must have changed  it to say
300D on the back?  Not unheard of.




Re: [MBZ] Hammie's tank vent...

2005-07-26 Thread Curt Raymond

Actually the plan is to cut the vent tube in the trunk. I bought a section of 
fuel line to put over the cut once I get the vent figured out. I'd thought 
about blowing back into the tank but don't really want whatever the obstruction 
is floating around in there.

-Curt
'83 240D Hammie 242kmi

Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 17:11:12 -0400
From: BenzBarn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hammie's alternator - and the tank vent...
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Can't help you Curt. I've never had to pull a 123 tank - I guess they 
rarely fail.  Remove the fuel cap before you blow any air into the tank, 
the pressure could force a lot of fuel back into your face and despite 
what you may think of me I wouldn't wish that on anyone. 

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Re: [MBZ] this should be of interest to somebody

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

no, its not a 115 its a 110.

BenzBarn wrote:


No, it's a 220D.  This is a 115 car right?
   A 200D is a 110 fin car, although there may have been a euro 200D in ' 68
that was a 115 sedan.


___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



[MBZ] 123 ac drains

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
On my 85, drivers side carpets are wet from AC draining.  I had the side 
carpet panel back the other day but didnt see the foam drains like what 
Im used to on 126's.  Are they not located there?  Whats the deal?  Are 
they not foam and just need something stuck up in them from below to 
clear them?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] rod knocking?

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Oil pressure is spot on, have not pulled the valve cover yet.  Car has a 
little over 200K on it.  Dont know about oil usage.


Kevin wrote:


On Mon, Jul 25, 2005 at 08:44:09PM -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

Yes, I have a stethescope.  From what I understand, it damaged the oil 
pump and they replaced that etc.  Runs great, just has the knock.



I have to ask, what's the oil pressure like? Any unusual wear on the cam 
lobes? It shouldn't take too much effort to look at the top end. Does it

smoke or use oil?

If the cam doesn't show a lot of gnarly wear, and the chain stretch is 
somewhat reasonable, I'd slap a set of bearings in it.


K

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Hammie's alternator and glowplug relay

2005-07-26 Thread Trampas
More likely a bad glow plug or leaking valve stem seals. 

 

Regards,

Trampas Stern 

  

 

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 9:34 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hammie's alternator and glowplug relay

 

Yesterday leaving work I crossed my fingers and Hammie fired right up, again
all the lights came on, I revved the engine and they went out. Lose belt
I'll wager. Give Richard a cigar.

 

Next question, I've noticed recently that if I wait 1-2 seconds after the
glowplug light goes out before starting the car (like if I'm fumbling with
my seatbelt) he starts noticably harder than if I hit the key the very
second the light goes out. The car still isn't hard to start but if I hit
the key just when the light goes out the car fires immediately, if I wait
its a half second of cranking.

This would indicate to me that the light is a true indication of what the
glow plugs are actually doing. I'd always thought I had the afterglow relay
but today I was thinking about how when first started Hammie idles a little
rough. Could the afterglow part of the relay die?

I presume replacement is quick and easy?

 

-Curt
'83 240D Hammie 242kmi

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[MBZ] Bouncy SLS on my wagon ('85 300TD)

2005-07-26 Thread meadedillon
Dieselvolk,

Well, this past weekend I towed my sailboat back and forth from storage to boat 
shop to house to boat ramp, and found the experience most unpleasant.  Lots of 
bouncing, tongue of trailer yanking on the hitch like a wild animal trying to 
escape, having to drive real slow on the rougher sections of road, stopping 
several times to try to shift more weight onto the tongue to see if that would 
fix it.

So, it took me three days to realize it, but I've finally decided that there 
must be a problem with the Self Leveling System (SLS) for the rear axle.  I did 
the bounce test, and the RR corner seems to bounce easier than the LR.  Most of 
the time the rear of the car is at the correct height when driving, but when 
loaded with the trailer that only occcured some of the time.  Also, she leaks 
down and sags a little most of the time.

My first guess is that it's time to rebuild the control valve.  The valve in 
the car now came from a '79 donor, cost was all of $10 last summer.  It worked 
well until recently, when the car started sagging when parked, not always but 
enough to bug me.  Does it make sense that a failed control valve would cause 
one side to be weaker than the other?  Supposedly the nitrogen spheres were 
replaced by the PO about 5 years ago, I wonder if one of those has failed, 
which in turn pushed the control valve over the edge?H, last rebuild of 
the original control valve also failed after ~year or less.   H

Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC




Re: [MBZ] Bouncy SLS on my wagon ('85 300TD)

2005-07-26 Thread Richard Hattaway
Meade, 

Wild guess, hard to tell w/o actually comparing the ride to mine (c: . 
But I bet you have a combination of valve rebuild (leaks down, not at
right height w/trailer attached) and sphere (bounce).

I dont see how the valve could affect only one side, but since the
spheres are individual to a side, they might well be the cause of the
bounce issue.

I was amazed at how much nicer my wagon rode once I replaced the
spheres, in terms of bounce under load.

Now I have a ramp beside the house, and you can pull the boat up here,
we'll go for a sail, then diagnose the SLS over beverages!  It's only 3
hours away (c: .

Richard




--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Dieselvolk,
 
 Well, this past weekend I towed my sailboat back and forth from
 storage to boat shop to house to boat ramp, and found the experience
 most unpleasant.  Lots of bouncing, tongue of trailer yanking on the
 hitch like a wild animal trying to escape, having to drive real slow
 on the rougher sections of road, stopping several times to try to
 shift more weight onto the tongue to see if that would fix it.
 
 So, it took me three days to realize it, but I've finally decided
 that there must be a problem with the Self Leveling System (SLS) for
 the rear axle.  I did the bounce test, and the RR corner seems to
 bounce easier than the LR.  Most of the time the rear of the car is
 at the correct height when driving, but when loaded with the trailer
 that only occcured some of the time.  Also, she leaks down and sags a
 little most of the time.
 
 My first guess is that it's time to rebuild the control valve.  The
 valve in the car now came from a '79 donor, cost was all of $10 last
 summer.  It worked well until recently, when the car started sagging
 when parked, not always but enough to bug me.  Does it make sense
 that a failed control valve would cause one side to be weaker than
 the other?  Supposedly the nitrogen spheres were replaced by the PO
 about 5 years ago, I wonder if one of those has failed, which in turn
 pushed the control valve over the edge?H, last rebuild of the
 original control valve also failed after ~year or less.   H
 
 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
 Digest Lurker since 2001
 '85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
 '96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
 '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
 Charleston SC
 
 


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Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread JabbaHursty

you still haven't sold that 6.3

At 12:59 AM 7/26/2005, you wrote:

Chuck, Chuck, such hostility... you could hurt yourself

I've worked on both cars and yes they're as fixable as any other. I have a
6.3 for sale  here right now that I did a lot of work on and I've done
several others. I've only worked on one 6.9 but I didn't find it as hard to
work around - kind of similar to a CIS 450SL engine.
The 6.3 engine is a different story. It took me all day or longer to RR the
injection pump on this car. It was running very rich with black clouds of
smoke out the back so I determined that the pump had a problem.  A lot of
stuff has to come off before you can even get near the pump but once I did
get it off, I realised that it had been rebuilt and then installed out of
time to the engine. I put it back on properly and it never missed a beat
after that.

The other thing is the air suspension. It's not rocket science but it still
scares most people away. Once it's operating properly it's a very nice
system. Like all things it needs to be serviced and maintained closely. Neil
at Star Motors did all the rebuilds for me although I've fixed some air
valves myself. The control lever can go over centre and lose contact with
gearing inside. Think of rack and pinion steering - it looks similar to that
inside.

However, the question is about a 6.9  I've seen a few go through Toronto
auction pretty cheap and unless they're nice cars they don't bring too much
on the open market.
 Any low production car will have very specific parts and some pieces will
have prices dreamed up by people on drugs.  The engines are strong as long
as they aren't over heated which happens from pluged rads where the coolant
wasn't changed often enough.  I don't think there's an oil cooler on these
cars, just the big tank in front of the right front wheel filled with 10
litters of oil. It runs very close to the tire and I suppose the air flow
aids in cooling.  I still have the rad from the one I did here and it was
completely clogged. The head gaskets blew out and so the top end had to be
done. Can't say how much that was - it was done at another shop in Toronto.
The struts are probably the biggest expense if they go bad. I imagine
there's an accumulator nearby that can go bad as well and cause a harsh
ride, but that would be less costly. Very smooth powerful cars as I
remember.

I know there's a M100 Group for 6.3, 600 and 6.9  but I don't know the URL.
Maybe someone does. I'm sure we can help this guy out , right gang?




( As for our esteemed friend around here, well I don't know. People say that
he can speak for and defend himself but I never see that happen.  With all
these followers speaking  for him, hey, why would he ever need to ~)

Even on the 113 list where I suppose I might be called some sort of guru ( I
hate that though ) people take me to task if they think I'm wrong. I don't
mind, it keeps me sharp and honest.  Some of my best learning has been from
mistakes I've made - no one is perfect.
Frankly, I believe it's a real mistake to elevate anyone to such a  level
that no one is ever allowed to openly debate ideas and differences with
them. I welcome debate and all of you should too. I came from a family where
you got things off your chest and the next day everyone was friendly again.


regards to all,
 Dan




___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread JabbaHursty

even striplin has a 6.9!

i think the dogs live in it


At 12:45 AM 7/26/2005, you wrote:

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'm VERY, VERY surprised and chagrined at the responses from Marshall,
 et al., and suggest they offer some assistance in identifying problems,
 then suggestions and help/solutions. IT'S OUT OF CHARACTER, WAAAY
 OFF TOPIC AND DOES NOT ADDRESS THE REQUEST FOR HELP!  Isn't that
 what this list is all about!!!

I could not agree more, given that owning a 6.9 is still one of my
goals/dreams/yeahsuredude things.

I know that some parts prices are high, but these are not cars you drive to
work every day (unless you do plastic surgery in Beverly Hills), they are
special cars. Where there is a will, there must be a way? Yes?

Mac


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[MBZ] In case you missed these !!!

2005-07-26 Thread Darrell W. Sigmon

Actual Newspaper Headlines (we can only assume!)

1. Something Went Wrong in Jet Crash, Expert Says
2. Police Begin Campaign to Run Down Jaywalkers
3. Safety Experts Say School Bus Passengers Should Be Belted
4. Farmer Bill Dies in House
5. Is There a Ring of Debris around Uranus?
6. British Left Waffles on Falkland Islands
7. Lung Cancer in Women Mushrooms
8. Eye Drops off Shelf
9. Teacher Strikes Idle Kids
10. Reagan Wins on Budget, But More Lies Ahead
11. Squad Helps Dog Bite Victim
12. Plane Too Close to Ground, Crash Probe Told
13. Miners Refuse to Work after Death
14. Juvenile Court to Try Shooting Defendant
15. Two Soviet Ships Collide, One Dies
16. Two Sisters Reunited after 18 Years in Checkout Counter
17. Killer Sentenced to Die for Second Time in 10 Years
18. War Dims Hope for Peace
19. If Strike isn't Settled Quickly, It May Last a While
20. Cold Wave Linked to Temperatures
21. Enfields Couple Slain; Police Suspect Homicide
22. Red Tape Holds Up New Bridge
23. Deer Kill 17,000
24. New Study of Obesity Looks for Larger Test Group
25. Kids Make Nutritious Snacks
26. Arson Suspect is Held in Massachusetts Fire
27. Ban On Soliciting Dead in Trotwood
28. Local High School Dropouts Cut in Half
29. New Vaccine May Contain Rabies
30. Man Minus Ear Waives Hearing
31. Deaf College Opens Doors to Hearing
32. Hospitals are Sued by 7 Foot Doctors
33. Include your Children When Baking Cookies
34. 4-H Girls Win Prizes for Fat Calves



Re: [MBZ] check out my latest aquisition

2005-07-26 Thread andrew strasfogel
It's a Euro model!!  Turbo or not, Kaleb?

On 7/26/05, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Damn, that is a find!
 
 
 On Monday, July 25, 2005, at 05:03 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/
  eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7988308620rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT
  rd=1
  --
  Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
  Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
 
  ___
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  For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
  For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
 
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 --
 Clay
 Seattle Bioburner
 
 1972 220D - Gump
 1995 E300D - Cleo
 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] need info

2005-07-26 Thread BenzBarn
No, that one sold last year. It went to NY and then it went back to Germany.
This is a better one.

Dan




Re: [MBZ] 123 ac drains

2005-07-26 Thread 72benz250

Hey Kaleb,

Sounds like the drain hole is blocked.
-- Original message -- 

 On my 85, drivers side carpets are wet from AC draining. I had the side 
 carpet panel back the other day but didnt see the foam drains like what 
 Im used to on 126's. Are they not located there? Whats the deal? Are 
 they not foam and just need something stuck up in them from below to 
 clear them? 
 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 
 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 
 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts 
 
 ___ 
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 For new parts see www.buymbparts.com 
 For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com 
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net 

Re: [MBZ] 123 ac drains

2005-07-26 Thread Loren Faeth
85 what?  your outdated list shows both a 126 and a 123.  Who knows what 
else is in the vast, and highly classified, Okie Acres compound?   Could be 
a secret Mog for all we know.


Go under the car with an air hose and look for the drains.  Blow air up 
each drain.


At 08:29 AM 7/26/2005, you wrote:

On my 85, drivers side carpets are wet from AC draining.  I had the side
carpet panel back the other day but didnt see the foam drains like what
Im used to on 126's.  Are they not located there?  Whats the deal?  Are
they not foam and just need something stuck up in them from below to
clear them?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
  85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
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[MBZ] Cam followers

2005-07-26 Thread 72benz250
Hi all,

I'm getting ready to replace a cam follower that the adjuster won't stay in 
place.

I'll be using a short flat prybar to lower the valve and remove the rocker arm. 
I don't have the MB tool for that. Or should I go to Autozone and borrow a 
spring compressor?

As for the follower (ball stud) can I use an impact gun to remove it?

Anybody have any tips or tricks to help me out with this job?

Thanks

George

Re: [MBZ] Creative v-belt substitutes

2005-07-26 Thread Royce Engler
Richard said...

FWIW, a friend locally tried panty hose for the same trick and failed
miserably.   Said he spent more time picking nylon out of the pulley
system than he did putting on a new belt (c:

Did he take 'em off first GRIN

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 265K 





Re: [MBZ] check out my latest aquisition

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

its a euro so it would be non turbo

andrew strasfogel wrote:


It's a Euro model!!  Turbo or not, Kaleb?

On 7/26/05, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Damn, that is a find!


On Monday, July 25, 2005, at 05:03 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/
eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7988308620rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT
rd=1
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] 123 ac drains

2005-07-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

it would be a 123

Loren Faeth wrote:

85 what?  your outdated list shows both a 126 and a 123.  Who knows what 
else is in the vast, and highly classified, Okie Acres compound?   Could be 
a secret Mog for all we know.


Go under the car with an air hose and look for the drains.  Blow air up 
each drain.


At 08:29 AM 7/26/2005, you wrote:


On my 85, drivers side carpets are wet from AC draining.  I had the side
carpet panel back the other day but didnt see the foam drains like what
Im used to on 126's.  Are they not located there?  Whats the deal?  Are
they not foam and just need something stuck up in them from below to
clear them?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
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For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



[MBZ] Rear suspension rebuild

2005-07-26 Thread John Robbins

Listers,

Been trying to avoid working on my rear suspension, but a chunk of rubber 
broke loose or something yesterday, which makes
the car VERY hard to drive in a straight line.  I already have all the 
parts for a rear end rebuild (trailing arm
bushings, driveshaft everything, subframe bushings differential and tranny 
mounts, etc etc) and am wondering if I can

simply follow the manual for the repairs.

The manual calls for the complete removal of the rear axles is this 
really necessary?


Any tips/tricks/comments/etc?

And I do have the proper spring compressor... so that at least isn't a 
problem.



Thanks!!!
John




Re: [MBZ] Bouncy SLS on my wagon ('85 300TD)

2005-07-26 Thread meadedillon
Richard,

Thanks for the info.  So, your car was also bouncy when the spheres needed to 
be replaced?  I thought that the failure mode for those was a hard ride, not 
bouncy.  Is there some valving that goes on inside those?  I think that their 
function in the system is basically the same as shock absorbers in a normal 
suspension set-up, so it would make sense that they would have some valving 
like a shock absorber.

Thanks also for the invite, but I'd rather fix the bouncy ride before towing 
the boat again, and even your offer of icy beverages won't sway me.  It is NOT 
fun to be in this thing bucking up and down, with a 2000lb sailboat filling the 
rear view mirror.

Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
'85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
'96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
'73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
Charleston SC




Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension rebuild

2005-07-26 Thread John Robbins

Forgot to mention the car... '79 300SD, W116 chassis.

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005, John Robbins wrote:


Listers,

Been trying to avoid working on my rear suspension, but a chunk of rubber
broke loose or something yesterday, which makes
the car VERY hard to drive in a straight line.  I already have all the
parts for a rear end rebuild (trailing arm
bushings, driveshaft everything, subframe bushings differential and tranny
mounts, etc etc) and am wondering if I can
simply follow the manual for the repairs.

The manual calls for the complete removal of the rear axles is this
really necessary?

Any tips/tricks/comments/etc?

And I do have the proper spring compressor... so that at least isn't a
problem.


Thanks!!!
John


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Re: [MBZ] Cam followers

2005-07-26 Thread BenzBarn
I use a big screw driver and it will pop right off. You can remove the ball 
stud and try another one to see if it won't turn down on you. It should only 
turn with a fair amount of force.




Re: [MBZ] this should be of interest to somebody

2005-07-26 Thread BenzBarn
I'd know the difference, believe me.   I didn't look at the picture.




Re: [MBZ] Cam followers

2005-07-26 Thread 72benz250
Having never done this before, where do you apply the big screw driver to pop 
it off?

Thanks benzbarn

George

-- Original message -- 

I use a big screw driver and it will pop right off. You can remove the ball 
stud and try another one to see if it won't turn down on you. It should only 
turn with a fair amount of force.---BeginMessage---
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---End Message---


Re: [MBZ] URGENT Need for Viton fuel hoses in Puget Sound

2005-07-26 Thread David Goldsmith
--- Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I can't comment on your VW, other than to wonder
 where
 you get your B50, and if it might be B40/M10 from
 not
 removing the methanol. 

I get 1/2 a tank of B100 (99 lately, actually) from a
CFN cardlock station in Oly and then fill 'er up with
petrol diesel.  When our TDI had the same problem, I
did suspect the fuel, so I brought a sample to my
mechanic who said he could test it, but he reported no
problems (I do suspect, however, that the age of the
fuel I get there might be an issue).  Personally, I'm
now convinced it's primarily the heat (which is the
best explanation I got at the TDIClub biodiesel
forum): it only just started to get into the upper
80's around here; I've been stuck in traffic in the
heat alot recently (and when I'm not I push the
engine, if you know what I mean); and though still far
from the red, just before my wife noticed the puddle
under my car, I noticed my temperature reading was a
little higher than I usually see it.  As Viton is
rated to withstand temps up to 550degF, I'll place my
faith in it.

 I do wonder what hose your indy used on the 240D.
 Did it have a cloth sheath on it?

Yes; for the courtesy of your address, I'd be happy to
send you (and any other interested readers) a piece to
examine.

DG

P.S. for redghost: Bow Wow does not inventory Viton
tubing - good thing I called before I went there.

__
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Re: [MBZ] Creative v-belt substitutes

2005-07-26 Thread Desert Rat
I've had to use the pantyhose on occasion also but only after my wife
found them in the glove compartment.

On 7/26/05, Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Richard said...
 
 FWIW, a friend locally tried panty hose for the same trick and failed
 miserably.   Said he spent more time picking nylon out of the pulley
 system than he did putting on a new belt (c:
 
 Did he take 'em off first GRIN
 
 Royce Engler
 1985 300TD Turbo 265K
 
 
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 


-- 
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL
1985 380SL



Re: [MBZ] Creative v-belt substitutes

2005-07-26 Thread Trampas

Were they your wife's? 

Of course when I replace belts I keep the old set in truck on top of spare
tire. Then I always have replacements in a pinch. Of course since I replace
belts as maintenance I have never had to use spares. 

Regards,
Trampas 
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Desert Rat
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 2:39 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Creative v-belt substitutes

I've had to use the pantyhose on occasion also but only after my wife
found them in the glove compartment.

On 7/26/05, Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Richard said...
 
 FWIW, a friend locally tried panty hose for the same trick and failed
 miserably.   Said he spent more time picking nylon out of the pulley
 system than he did putting on a new belt (c:
 
 Did he take 'em off first GRIN
 
 Royce Engler
 1985 300TD Turbo 265K
 
 
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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-- 
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL
1985 380SL

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[MBZ] Tips on Replacing A/C Condenser (124)?

2005-07-26 Thread J.B. Hebert
I will be swapping out the A/C condenser in my '95 E300D soon.  The process 
looks pretty straight forward, but I was currious if the radiator has to be 
completely removed (per the manual) or if it could be unclipped and tipped 
enough to allow the condenser to slip out.  If I have to drain and remove 
the radiator completely, it obviously adds a significant amount of time and 
effort to the job.  Can anyone who as done this chime in on the radiator 
issue?  I'm pretty sure it's the same process on all '89 and later 124 
chassis cars with the double aux. fans.  Are there any other gotchas to 
worry about?


Thanks.


J.B. Hebert

--
Current Vehicles:

'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
'93 GMC Sierra 2500
'95 Mercedes E300D 





Re: [MBZ] Bouncy SLS on my wagon ('85 300TD)

2005-07-26 Thread Richard Hattaway
I bet.  What class is the boat?

My ride would have been considered 'hard bouncy'.  Hard to describe
unless you were in the car.  If I hit any bump with any load in the
rear, the bounce came from the springs after the SLS spheres 'bottomed
out'.  That is how I imagined what was going on based on the feel.

The spheres have a small orifice in them.  Behind the orifice is a
rubber ball full of nitrogen.  I suppose the 'shock absorber' effect is
created by the orfice only allowing so much hydraulinc fluid to move
back and forth, compressing and relaxing the ball.

So order a set of spheres from Rusty then leave the boat there, and
head up for the icy beverages, writing off the fuel as a test run for
the spheres.  I have an old Highlander we can use as a platform for
beverage consumption (c:

Richard

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Richard,
 
 Thanks for the info.  So, your car was also bouncy when the spheres
 needed to be replaced?  I thought that the failure mode for those was
 a hard ride, not bouncy.  Is there some valving that goes on inside
 those?  I think that their function in the system is basically the
 same as shock absorbers in a normal suspension set-up, so it would
 make sense that they would have some valving like a shock absorber.
 
 Thanks also for the invite, but I'd rather fix the bouncy ride before
 towing the boat again, and even your offer of icy beverages won't
 sway me.  It is NOT fun to be in this thing bucking up and down, with
 a 2000lb sailboat filling the rear view mirror.
 
 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
 Digest Lurker since 2001
 '85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
 '96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
 '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
 Charleston SC
 
 

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Re: [MBZ] Cam followers

2005-07-26 Thread BenzBarn
I kind of stick it under the rocker and pry up and sideways all at the same 
time. The cam lobe needs to be pointing up so it's not under any load.


Re: [MBZ] Creative v-belt substitutes

2005-07-26 Thread Richard Hattaway
Oh, I could have done that, I guess.  When I had the engine out for
rebuild a couple of falls ago, you would think I would put new belts on
it as I put it back together.  I knew the thing had seen *zero*
preventative maintenance before I got it.  I knew the belts had at
least 100K on them.  But I reused the old belts anyway.  It would've
been a horrible waste of money on new belts if the engine had cratered
after the rebuild!!

I rocket back and forth to work in this heap, about 18 miles total, all
backwoods NC.  There's an autozone about 20 minutes away from the
house.  So spare parts etc was not the issue.  I simply did not want to
lay around in the weeds on the side of the road fixing belts.  I would
rather tow the car home.

Now my wife's car, a 96 caravan is a different story.  I have a spare
in it, and the single wrench it takes to change it.  Can be done in
about 5 minutes, and simpler than the tie wraps.  Oh I guess the tie
wraps would be a pretty dismal failure on a serp belt anyway (c:

Richard
Vice President of the Jalopinists of NC 
Salisbury Branch

--- Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Of course when I replace belts I keep the old set in truck on top of
 spare
 tire. Then I always have replacements in a pinch. Of course since I
 replace
 belts as maintenance I have never had to use spares. 
 
 Regards,
 Trampas 
  
 





Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 
 



Re: [MBZ] Cam followers

2005-07-26 Thread Roberto
I used a 5mm allen wrench in order to took off the cam followers on my M130 
engine.
Just insert the short end od the 5 mm allen wrench in the hole of the cam 
follower that is over the adjuster, prying up using the long part as a support, 
when you lift the arm of the follower enough , pull it aside of the adjuster, 
then slide the follower out and took of the follower plate over the vavle.
I hope this help, using this method you wont take any risk scratching any part 
with a tool.

greetings 

Roberto


Re: [MBZ] Cam followers

2005-07-26 Thread 72benz250
makes sense. cool. I'll give that a try

-- Original message -- 

I kind of stick it under the rocker and pry up and sideways all at the same 
time. The cam lobe needs to be pointing up so it's not under any load.---BeginMessage---
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---End Message---


Re: [MBZ] Cam followers

2005-07-26 Thread 72benz250
Cool.

I'll look into that as well.

-- Original message -- 

I used a 5mm allen wrench in order to took off the cam followers on my M130 
engine.
Just insert the short end od the 5 mm allen wrench in the hole of the cam 
follower that is over the adjuster, prying up using the long part as a support, 
when you lift the arm of the follower enough , pull it aside of the adjuster, 
then slide the follower out and took of the follower plate over the vavle.
I hope this help, using this method you wont take any risk scratching any part 
with a tool.

greetings 

Roberto---BeginMessage---
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---End Message---


[MBZ] 1980 300D

2005-07-26 Thread jgiels
I have been having trouble with the shifter lately. It is real loose and 
sometimes doesn't lock the tranny in park. Only starts in neutral alot of the 
time. I have read some about bushings or such there. I looked and there are 
three different ones. I know that they don't cost much and think I will buy 
them all. 

Can someone tell me what I am going to be going through to do this. I plan on 
using a lift for the job so I am not going to be laying down.  Concerned about 
if I have to remove the console and lower the transmission?

tia.. 

Douglas.. 

Re: [MBZ] No brake power after a short ride downhill

2005-07-26 Thread Roberto
Thanks Thomas for your fast response but I am not sure if I made my self 
clear, the brake falire appear about ten minutes after I reached the base of 
the hill, during hevy traffic


Roberto 





Re: [MBZ] 1980 300D

2005-07-26 Thread Potter, Tom E
No. I replaced just some plastic bushings in the end of the shift lever and in 
the end of the lever on the transmission--if I remember correctly. It has been 
several years since I did it.
 

Thomas E. Potter
Telephone: (713) 215-2877
Fax: (713) 215-2551
Mobile: (832) 794-0536


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of jgiels
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 3:57 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1980 300D


thnks.. is this what you put on the shifter? 
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/buymb/quote.jsp?clientid=buymbparts 
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/buymb/quote.jsp?clientid=buymbpartscookieid=1KD0ZGKL41KQ107B7Jbaseurl=http://www.buymbparts.com/partner=buymbyear=1980product=J4070-11930application=30609
 
cookieid=1KD0ZGKL41KQ107B7Jbaseurl=http://www.buymbparts.com/partner=buymbyear=1980product=J4070-11930application=30609
 
I tried the link and it worked for me let me know.
 
Douglas.. 

- Original Message - 
From: Potter, Tom E mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
To: Mercedes mailing list mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1980 300D

I assume it is like my '81 300D. You do not need to remove the console; the 
bushings are at the ends of the shift rod beside the transmission--as I 
remember. They are cheap, but they are a pain to get installed. You have to 
force them into the holes on the shifter and the transmission, and you have 
little room beside the transmission. I almost ripped my fingernails out, but I 
finally got them installed.
 
Good luck,

Thomas E. Potter
Telephone: (713) 215-2877
Fax: (713) 215-2551
Mobile: (832) 794-0536


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of jgiels
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 3:43 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] 1980 300D


I have been having trouble with the shifter lately. It is real loose and 
sometimes doesn't lock the tranny in park. Only starts in neutral alot of the 
time. I have read some about bushings or such there. I looked and there are 
three different ones. I know that they don't cost much and think I will buy 
them all. 
 
Can someone tell me what I am going to be going through to do this. I plan on 
using a lift for the job so I am not going to be laying down.  Concerned about 
if I have to remove the console and lower the transmission?
 
tia.. 
 
Douglas.. 



  _  




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Re: [MBZ] 1980 300D

2005-07-26 Thread jgiels
Ok thanks will look into bushings..

douglas.. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Potter, Tom E 
  To: Mercedes mailing list 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 2:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1980 300D


  No. I replaced just some plastic bushings in the end of the shift lever and 
in the end of the lever on the transmission--if I remember correctly. It has 
been several years since I did it.

  Thomas E. Potter
  Telephone: (713) 215-2877
  Fax: (713) 215-2551
  Mobile: (832) 794-0536


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of jgiels
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 3:57 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1980 300D


thnks.. is this what you put on the shifter? 
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/buymb/quote.jsp?clientid=buymbpartscookieid=1KD0ZGKL41KQ107B7Jbaseurl=http://www.buymbparts.com/partner=buymbyear=1980product=J4070-11930application=30609

I tried the link and it worked for me let me know.

Douglas.. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Potter, Tom E 
  To: Mercedes mailing list 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 1:50 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1980 300D


  I assume it is like my '81 300D. You do not need to remove the console; 
the bushings are at the ends of the shift rod beside the transmission--as I 
remember. They are cheap, but they are a pain to get installed. You have to 
force them into the holes on the shifter and the transmission, and you have 
little room beside the transmission. I almost ripped my fingernails out, but I 
finally got them installed.

  Good luck,
  Thomas E. Potter
  Telephone: (713) 215-2877
  Fax: (713) 215-2551
  Mobile: (832) 794-0536


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of jgiels
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 3:43 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] 1980 300D


I have been having trouble with the shifter lately. It is real loose 
and sometimes doesn't lock the tranny in park. Only starts in neutral alot of 
the time. I have read some about bushings or such there. I looked and there are 
three different ones. I know that they don't cost much and think I will buy 
them all. 

Can someone tell me what I am going to be going through to do this. I 
plan on using a lift for the job so I am not going to be laying down.  
Concerned about if I have to remove the console and lower the transmission?

tia.. 

Douglas.. 


--


  ___
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
  For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net



--


  ___
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
  For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


Re: [MBZ] [db] Tips on Replacing A/C Condenser (124)?

2005-07-26 Thread john
JB the older I get the more I realize that time can actually be spent by
moving stuff completely out of the way... I watch good mechanics do this
all the time and think to myself, why bother?  I can wiggle in there...
and then I realize that I've taken much longer to do the job and drop
stuff down in crevices and so on... sometimes it's just easier and quicker to
remove stuff...   When doing the fuel injectors on the '92 XJ 4.0L I removed
the stuff in the way and it went a lot faster...  

you know, I think Mr. Murphy watches to see if we take short cuts...  :)
if we do, he tries to help.  :)

john


On Tue, 26 Jul 2005, J.B. Hebert wrote:

 --I will be swapping out the A/C condenser in my '95 E300D soon.  The process
 --looks pretty straight forward, but I was currious if the radiator has to be
 --completely removed (per the manual) or if it could be unclipped and tipped
 --enough to allow the condenser to slip out.  If I have to drain and remove
 --the radiator completely, it obviously adds a significant amount of time and
 --effort to the job.  Can anyone who as done this chime in on the radiator
 --issue?  I'm pretty sure it's the same process on all '89 and later 124
 --chassis cars with the double aux. fans.  Are there any other gotchas to
 --worry about?
 --
 --Thanks.
 --
 --
 --J.B. Hebert
 --
 
 --Current Vehicles:
 --
 --'76 Ford Bronco
 --'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
 --'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
 --'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
 --'93 GMC Sierra 2500
 --'95 Mercedes E300D 
 --



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