[neonixie-l] Re: mmm... 208

2010-09-10 Thread Nick


On 10 Sep, 21:55, Steve Rooke sar10...@gmail.com wrote:
 On 11 September 2010 08:53, Shane Ellis mime...@gmail.com wrote:

  A lot of the missing people were members in name only.

 I'm not a name, I'm a number :)

No 6 by any chance?

Regarding the number of old users, on inspection it turns out that
many haven't visited in ages. Although we have a list of all those
2,300 or so users' email addresses, we made a concious decision to
look at this exercise as an opportunity to weed out the dead wood and
not to send invites to them all. They can always re-join if they
wish... This way we know how many real/active users there are...

Cheers

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Longines made a Nixie clock

2010-10-27 Thread Nick
On Oct 27, 6:04 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:
 Hmm, a little pricy though. 400EUR for just seven standard (probably
 ZM1182 style) tubes.. You really have to love this kind of clock and
 design to spend so much on it.

Depends on what you collect - When I can, I also collect hand-made
watches by a well-known long-established Swiss maker (probably not the
one you may be thinking of though). There are people there who are
very well off indeed and will buy anything associated with their
favourite fabricators, marketing info included.

Cheers

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Handmade desk calculator from pre-LED times

2010-11-26 Thread Nick
On Nov 27, 2:42 am, threeneurons threeneur...@yahoo.com wrote:
 When was the last time you bought a TV, and got the schematic with
 it ?
 They use to print them inside the chassis.

In about 1981 the company my brother and I had bought its first proper
computer - a DEC PDP 11/34A (with the Engineering Front Panel).

It came with a massive complete print set of schematics - the main CPU
backplane was all wire-wrapped.

As an EE student in the late 70s I also worked on a Modcomp MAX IV
(rev D) and an (even then) ancient Honeywell DP 516 (also used as the
backbone for ARPANET, the precursor to the Internet). Both of these
were fully wirewrapped.

On Nov 27, 12:33 am, Charles MacDonald cm...@zeusprune.ca wrote:
 Early consumer Circuit boards were on a paper based material and were
 famous for developing cracks and lifted traces.  This was no doubt
 partly due to the repair guys being used to pressing down while using
 their 300W Weller Soldering Guns.

That would be Paxolin SRBP - Synthetic Resin Bonded Paper. A very
very distinctive smell when it was hot/burning...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Opinions Needed...Nixie Power Supply?

2010-11-30 Thread Nick


On Nov 30, 7:41 pm, Ulysses J. Balis ulba...@gmail.com wrote:
 I second that.   It only takes about 5 mA of current through the heart to go
 into ventricular fibrillation.  At 500V, this thing can fry you, let alone
 electrocute you.

A couple of years ago I picked up 2 NIB Xantrex 1000W 600V @ 1.7A (XKW
600-1.7)  digital supplies - 
http://www.tti.co.uk/products-resale/xantrex/xantrex-xkw.html

The idea was to use them for general development.

They scare the bits out of me... Very good for reforming large HV caps
though...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: ETL Tube Handbook on E-bay England

2011-01-16 Thread Nick


On Jan 16, 8:48 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:
 Me neither.

Nor me - got my own one already.

I have a load of German tube handbooks that I'll be getting rid of
soon, though...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] OT: Bonkers...

2011-01-17 Thread Nick
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=200470598507

I'm going to get one for the hell of it - nice to have something fully
isolated
in an HV environment (if it can stand the noise...)

Free shipping too...

Look down the listing at the one they have in development...

Oh. Shiny...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: OT: Bonkers...

2011-01-17 Thread Nick


On Jan 17, 8:31 pm, Tidak Ada offl...@zeelandnet.nl wrote:
 Only 1 MHz bandwidth
 Verry rough sine interpretation
 Resolution to low to find spikes (Only 360 dots horizontally and even less
 vertically)

Lets be clear - its not a replacement for your Tektronix/Agilent/
Whatever, but its a dead useful tool that is full isolated, has
recording capability, is fine for audio, I2C/TWI etc. work and for
general bits  bobs...

Most importantly, its smaller than many mobile phones - loads of
reviews on Youtube.

The user interface seems OK - very mobile phone-ish (there's a
surprise!). It can ive in the laptop bag along with the USB logic
analyser ;-)

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: OT: Bonkers...

2011-01-17 Thread Nick


On Jan 17, 7:07 pm, David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net wrote:
 On 1/17/11 10:29 AM, Nick wrote:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=200470598507

 I'm going out on a limb here and guessing that the user interface
 implementation will render it useless. Just because, when was the last
 time you bought a low-cost Chinese gizmo that had an intuitive user
 interface?

Don't sneer too much - even Teks  HPs are made in mainland China 
Taiwan ! Also, pretty much all mobiles, iThings (designed in the
UK!!), and probably 99% of everything else you use of that type.

Not to mention Tek  others rebadging Rigol scopes as their own...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: OT: Bonkers...

2011-01-17 Thread Nick
On Jan 17, 10:28 pm, Bill Lewis wrl...@gmail.com wrote:
 My TEK stuff wasn't rebadged or made in China!

 http://www.wrljet.com/tektronix/555/index.html

Very nice! I gave away my 7904A after it developed the tick of death
- its since been repaired.

Still got a whole bunch of Tek plugins  spares but no scope for them.
Main Tek scopes are now a 2024, 2430A and 2465A. Love them.

Your restorations look more like complete rebuilds. Very smart
indeed...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: OT: Bonkers...

2011-01-19 Thread Nick
On Jan 18, 8:12 am, TurboMac (Turbo_Hobby) turboma...@gmail.com
wrote:
 AFAIK, new version (probably 2.3) will come with a much wider
 bandwidth.

h.w rev 2.3 is the current version and is essentially the same spec as
V1, except that the layout is updated and the case is metal (improved
EMC). There is a separate channel for the sig gen, and other small
changes.

The schematic is here: 
http://code.google.com/p/dsonano/downloads/detail?name=DS0201%20V2.3%20Scheme.pdfcan=2q=

Note that input A/D is still done by the uP.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Where to get cool clock housings?

2011-01-30 Thread Nick
I've recently been experimenting with profile cutting using water jets
with sapphire dust (60,000 psi) - cuts pretty much anything (except
rubber  hollow tubes) up to 1 of solid granite or .75 of stainless
steel - no marking (unlike laser). I also have access to a laser
cutter for acrylic/polycarbonate work.

Profile cutting is supremely awesome but equivalently expensive.

Laser cutting has its plus points but you have to get it just right -
I've done quite a bit with some considerable success (e.g.
http://4hv.org/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?90254 ) but,
regrettably, mixed results when doing some for someone else.

Laser cutting plastics can leave a faintly serrated edge that can be
flame-polished or lightly sanded. Thin veneer can be cut but does
leave a carbonised edge.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Where to get cool clock housings?

2011-01-31 Thread Nick

On Jan 31, 12:35 pm, John Rehwinkel jreh...@mac.com wrote:
  The common tool used to punch a chassis is a chassis Punch sometimes
  called a Greeenlee punch after the major manufacturer.

 A drill, one or two of those, a nibbler tool, and a file or two will get you 
 far.

If you are working with wood, get yourself some Forstner bits. Only
real way of cutting really neat big holes in blocks of wood - gives
really clean edges and a flat bottom...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] OT: USA patent application status lookup...

2011-01-31 Thread Nick
Hi,

This is OT, but has anyone here got the ability to look up the status
of a USA patent office application? Send me a PM if you could look one
up for me.

Yes, I know that I could register myself, but the process takes ages
and requires notarised documents snail-mailed to them etc.

Thanks

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Google groups no longer supporting Pages/Files

2011-01-31 Thread Nick
Indeed, its a pain. However, I'm open to ideas on this and welcome the
dialogue...

Google docs is one option, but we'd like other alternatives...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: OT: USA patent application status lookup...

2011-02-01 Thread Nick
On Feb 1, 9:44 am, taylorjpt j...@tayloredge.com wrote:
 You can access the full system without any account via PAIR if you
 know the application number...

 http://portal.uspto.gov/external/portal/pair

 Or search for an application...

 http://appft.uspto.gov/netahtml/PTO/search-bool.html

 both of these are completely public.

The pair link is broken - I don;t want to just look up a patent -
that's easy - its the STATUS of a patent application that interests
me.

What is particularly annoying is the the patent attorney address seems
to be for an invalid company, so I can't even contact them... Though
if anyone had an email for them, I could try that! PCE INDUSTRY, INC.
458 E. LAMBERT ROAD
FULLERTON
CA
92835

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: OT: USA patent application status lookup...

2011-02-01 Thread Nick

On Feb 1, 6:51 pm, Jon dekat...@nomotron.com wrote:
 On Feb 1, 9:58 am, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote:

  The pair link is broken - I don;t want to just look up a patent -
  that's easy - its the STATUS of a patent application that interests
  me.

 Nick,

 Can you clarify what you mean by status? Are you wanting to know
 whether a patent is pending or in force (ie granted and the
 maintenance fees paid up to date). Or is it a patent which is
 currently being examined, and you'd like to see the detail of the
 office actions, responses from the applicant etc (ie the file
 wrapper) ?

I've dealt with it now - I spoke to the USPO legal department who
basically told me to sod off. It seems that 3rd parties cannot object
or correspond in any way regarding a patent application if more than a
couple of months have passed since the application was first
published. So I can't do anything anyway. The extraordinarily rude 
snotty lady on the 'phone said that if I made any attempt to contact
the assessor all my correspondence would be struck off the record,
even though I have a file of prior art.

Oh, well..

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: E-bay Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery??

2011-02-04 Thread Nick
I'm closing this thread as it'll just lead to complaints.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] H. Blumer Dynacount EPZ1 info wanted...

2011-02-18 Thread Nick
Found one of these in the loft. Its a counter with a 5-pin DIN
connector at the back.

Anyone know anything about this?

Cheers

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: H. Blumer Dynacount EPZ1 info wanted...

2011-02-18 Thread Nick
Ahhh. Sussed it. Its a small 4-digit event counter with internal 
external reset  level control - 10mV - 5V input. Only seems to count
events up to 4kHz.

Beautifully made - typically Swiss!

nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Material for cathode?

2011-02-27 Thread Nick
On Feb 28, 12:14 am, Sixsmith phinneusbal...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,
 We're experimenting with making our own nixie tubes in our shop. I was
 planning on making the cathode out of stainless steel, but was
 wondering if anyone had any advice about the best material to use.
 Would it be better to try to find something rare-earth coated, or
 isn't it necessary?

Weston (pp334) says that nickel is ideal but not strong enough, and
recommends nickel-iron alloys or stainless steel. He recommends a h:w
ration of 2:1 for side-view tubes where the cathodes are close
together and 1:1.6 (is that a misprint - does he mean 1.6:1 ?) for end-
view tubes where the cathodes can be further apart.

Note that sputtering increases markedly with decreasing pressure, so
you need the highest pressure you can in your Penning mixture such
that you get reliable striking. If you introduce Hg to reduce the
sputtering, use only a tiny amount as too much will deposit on the
inside of the tube and reduce visibility. In the various books I;ve
read, life of non-Hg doped tubes is generally rated at between 1000 
1500 hours - with Hg doping this can be many 10s of 1000s of hours and
indeed over 100,000 (allegedly!) in some cases.

With only 0.2W dissipation, the actual cathode temperature can be a
few hundred degrees C, so the cathodes mustn't be stacked too close as
they can distort in use. The recommended minimum spacing is 0.6mm
which allows a stack depth of 0.7mm per layer, i.e. using 0.1mm sheet
metal. Glyphs are either stamped or etched from the sheet. Design of
glyphs is quite cute - many tubes rely on the width of the stroke
changing to try to ensure that each digit has approximately the same
surface area so with a given anode current they have similar
brightness.

The anode is non critical as long as its pretty evenly spaced - the
front mesh is as transparent as possible, and the back plate is coated
matt black to reduce reflections.

Note that some tubes have no anode! They rely on making unused
cathodes into anodes - a neat trick gaining great aesthetics 
visibility at the expense of requiring extra electronics.

I would get an assortment of dead tubes and have the metal analysed -
watch out for the mercury in long-life tubes. Also look closely at the
exact dimensions of each glyph - many larger tubes actually specify
different anode currents for different glyphs (or segments, e.g. in
the B7971).

Cheers

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Anybody heard from David Forbes lately?

2011-02-28 Thread Nick
Enough on this - this is a private matter between two people - resolve
it off-line, not here.

This thread is being locked.

Moderators.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Canister Capacitors?

2011-03-01 Thread Nick
On Mar 2, 1:44 am, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote:
 I know this isn't strictly Nixie...

 Does anyone know if it is possible to find replacement canister (multi)
 capacitors? They usually contain 3 high voltage electrolytics inside a
 single aluminum canister.
 Before I go straight to just replacing the part with three individual
 electrolytics, I thought I'd ask..

Jan Wuesten of Ask Jan First stocks loads of new replacement stuff
for repairing  renovating tube amps  radios etc.

http://www.die-wuestens.de/eindex.htm

In the Catalogue section on capacitors you will find hundreds of new
replacement parts.

I've used Jan many times in the past - top bloke.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Canister Capacitors?

2011-03-02 Thread Nick
On Mar 2, 8:35 am, Quixotic Nixotic nixot...@blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
 I have also taken all the gunk out of the old  
 cans - it stinks something rotten...

...and it also may (probably) contain PCBs... treat it with great
respect...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Canister Capacitors?

2011-03-02 Thread Nick


On Mar 2, 4:37 pm, Tidak Ada offl...@zeelandnet.nl wrote:
 Electrolytic capacitors don't contain PCB's. It are the paper/oil capacitors
 that where filled with clorated oils, untill they got almost all forbidden.

Good point - however, as a matter of principle, I am cautious of the
contents of any pre-1980s kit, less it contains something nasty.

Transformers, capacitors, broken valves (nixies!!) etc.

As someone who was bought up when chemistry  physics labs were
exactly that - chemistry  physics labs, it seems strange to be so
cautious now, given how we used to flick mercury round the labs  mess
with benzine etc.

Now I'm not even sure that school kids are even allow to watch videos
of that sort of stuff...

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[neonixie-l] Re: Large nixie display, current discrepancies

2011-03-09 Thread Nick
On Mar 9, 8:46 am, JohnK yend...@internode.on.net wrote:
 How about you check the tolerance % of the resistors.  Did you use 10%, 5%
 etc  ?
 And, how about you measure the voltage drop across each of the anode
 resistors in turn and with different digits ON.

 BTWQ, that current increase is not large BUT, it may not be spread
 evenly across the tubes; what if it is one tube drawing all the extra?

Further to that - accurately measure each anode resistor, then measure
the voltage drop across them, then for each work out the current - you
should probably use a BIG digit, such as 8 to do this.

Generally, the life of a nixie exponentially decreases with increased
anode current. I would probably aim for an average of 2mA per digit,
and 1.5 may be enough, i.e. always err on the low side.

Bear in mind that this is NOT precision science. 10% or worse
resistors were commonly used, and the characteristics quoted for tubes
are really an idealised average over a sample.

Note that the current requirement for a given level of illumination is
related to the surface area of the digit. Some tubes are cute about
this and make the 1 fatter and the 8 skinnier etc. to compensate,
but this is not always the case.

So, relax a bit, aim for about 2mA or a bit less, and stick with that.
Note the decimal point is max rated at 0.3mA

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: How not to make a website

2011-03-10 Thread Nick
On 10 Mar, 17:42, David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net wrote:
 I was recently contacted by someone at the domain below who wants a
 Nixie watch. Naturally, I was curious.

 http://www.twosigma.com/

 Go ahead and click on it; it won't hurt you.

I'm not sure what the problem is here - it looks like a completely
standard financial services management company.

The legal bit is required by law to ensure that you understand the
potential risks and your are in the correct regulatory domain etc. All
hedge funds and other similar service providers are required to do the
same. One you have agreed to the TCs, you don;t see that window
again.

I spent years working for a hedge fund - we did exactly the same.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Custom text discharge tube

2011-03-11 Thread Nick

On 10 Mar, 22:08, Imajeenyus lind...@imajeenyus.com wrote:
 Hi folks,

 Just joined the group, after meaning to for ages! I caught the Nixie bug
 last year
...

Hi Lindsay,

Welcome - and a very nice site you have too. I was wondering if you'd
seen
http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=ensl=fru=http://paillard.claude.free.fr/ei=Oel5TZezKpGKhQe98rjeBgsa=Xoi=translatect=resultresnum=1ved=0CB4Q7gEwAAprev=/search%3Fq%3DF2FO%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26prmd%3Divns
?

Main interesting bit there is the making of his own triode from
scratch, and specifically the degassing etc. which is necessary for a
quality tube - obviously he doesn't Hg-dope his tubes (not necessary
for him) but for any long-life discharge tube, some sort of anti-
sputtering is necessary.

Great work!

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: How not to make a website

2011-03-11 Thread Nick
On Mar 11, 2:49 pm, David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net wrote:
 On 3/10/11 11:40 PM, Nick wrote:

  I'm not sure what the problem is here - it looks like a completely
  standard financial services management company.

  I spent years working for a hedge fund - we did exactly the same.

  Nick

 Nick,

 I understand that the lawyers want to make sure that you understand the
 regulatory obligations endured by the company before doing business with
 them.

 But... making the visitor agree to ten pages of legal boilerplate to
 view *anything* on the website? That's so wrong that it's funny.

Its not wrong, it is a statutory requirement by the applicable
regulatory authority. Look at any hedge or boutique investment fund
site and they are pretty much the same.

One thing to note is that hedge funds are pretty secretive about
exactly what they do (they regard that as part of their competitive
edge), so most of their web sites have scant real content and are
there as a presence only.

Strangely (!!), funds like this don't get passing trade - investors
don't look at the web site to see if they are deserving of an
investment ;-) Most funds are not allowed to sell to the general
public (aka unqualified investors [aka non-professional]) anyway as
the risks are considered to complex and too large. Most funds I've
worked with are required by law (in the UK) to actively qualify all
investors to ensure that they are professionally aware of the risks -
a professional investor has to meet several requirements, some of
which tend to include significant proven trading activity over a
prolonged period together with significant minimum investments, e.g.
maybe $1M or more in liquid capital and fund unit sizes of USD 50, 100
or 500K (depends on type of fund and target investor). Some funds
target only HNWI (high net worth individuals), some institutional
investors (pension funds etc.) and some are referred to as
retail (general public, but at far lower risk).

Enough already on hedge funds...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need Heathkit schematic / manual

2011-03-11 Thread Nick
On Mar 11, 9:38 pm, Terry S tschw10...@aol.com wrote:
 For a Heathkit nixie tube multimeter model IM-102.

I've sent it to you in a PM

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Cold Cathode Tube Circuit Design DM Neale 1965

2011-03-24 Thread Nick
A little bit more about DM Neale...

http://www.decodesystems.com/neale.html

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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie Tube Power Supply

2011-04-04 Thread Nick
Hi Jason - no problem with showing off what you've been up to at all!

There are a whole bunch of nixie PSU boards  designs out there - tell
us a bit more about yours - the specs might help for a start!
i.e. what chip its based on, the output voltage range, the current
it'll deliver under regulation, its efficiency etc.

Cheers

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie Tube Power Supply

2011-04-04 Thread Nick
On Apr 5, 2:35 am, jason greskoviak icemanfiv...@gmail.com wrote:
...
 As far as a good buy, i SUPPORT american companies,
 far too many people have become spoiled by cheap Chinese labor. being
 in the states gives me the unique position to answer questions and
 give superior customer service and technical help to those i serve.

Hi - Its worth remembering that many many folk here are NOT from the
USA - Many are from the UK/Europe and many other from around the world
- conservatively, I would estimate that at least 50% are non-US.

I'm from the UK, but my boards are typically made in Plovdiv
(Bulgaria), my capacitors from the Czech Republic (AVX or Kemet), my
uPs from Norway (Atmel), resistors from who knows where,
semiconductors from the USA/Far East and elsewhere etc. and assembled
 supported here (England). Its the way things are and will remain so.

On Semi (who make the 34063A chip you use) do most of their chip
manufacturing in the Far East - 4 out of 20 plants are in the USA, 14
are in the Far East, and 2 in Europe. 
http://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/content.do?id=1071

There is more than one country involved in engineering assembly 
component manufacture and not all customers are in the USA !

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Nixie Tube Power Supply

2011-04-05 Thread Nick
Please keeps threads with the original subject line. If you must
change the subject, start a new thread.

Ta!

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Market for high efficiency high voltage power supplys TUBE RADIO

2011-04-12 Thread Nick


On Apr 9, 7:30 am, lai...@wcoil.com wrote:
 I can tell you where there would be a fairly big market for high
 efficiency high voltage power supplies (IF THEY CAN BE PROPERLY SHIELDED
 FOR RF LEAKAGE) that is B power supplies

There are many folk who use a derivative of the MAX 1771 design on my
site for tube radios, stompboxes, headphone  preamps etc. both
amateur  commercial products (though I get no license fees ;-)

The problem is that the switching frequency varies depending on load
and there are many harmonics which can be large due to the high
switching currents.

Filtering both input and output of the SMPS  full screening of the
unit itself are pre-requisites.

Its non-trivial to get right

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[neonixie-l] Re: NIMO tube socket wanted...

2011-04-12 Thread Nick
On Apr 12, 5:17 pm, David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net wrote:

 I thought it was a standard 12 pin Compactron socket. I have some of
 those, and they are rather common (for big tube sockets).

Nope they have a standard base but a final anode connection on the
side of the tube - a special socket was made that connects that too...
I've never seen one of these, but I was hoping that someone out there
might have a spare to sell/swap...

Cheers

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: NIMO tube socket wanted...

2011-04-12 Thread Nick
On Apr 12, 8:59 pm, Tidak Ada offl...@zeelandnet.nl wrote:
 I habe added a drawing of the NIMO socket and base from  a datasheet I have
 (pdf) to the photo directory named 'NIMO Socket'.

The full data is available from several sites, such as Jan's :
http://www.die-wuestens.de/iz/NIMO.pdf

It seems the final anode is connected by a spring steel tag connected
to an insulating stand-off.

I'll make some on the laser cutter...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Russian calculator with green tube(s)

2011-04-23 Thread Nick
Looks like a pretty standard VFD (blue/green).. Simple to drive, low
voltage, needs heater  bias.

Loads of generic info out there on these - you should be able to
identify the heater with a multimeter.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Actual differences on different manufacturers?

2011-05-01 Thread Nick
I'm inclined to think that at least some of these tubes were simply
rebranded by the end supplier...

I bought a large number of NOS/NIB tubes from REL when they were
clearing their nixie stocks - they are all completely unmarked,
awaiting their final supplier to print whatever on them. I had toyed
with the ideas of doing my own printing.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Membership creeping towards 400...

2011-05-06 Thread Nick
Well, membership is slowly creeping up, and we can presume that most
are still active (as they are within the last year).

We are very open to ideas about how to improve the group, especially
on the file storage front - preferably within the current framework.

Comments welcome!

Cheers

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: B7971 x8 Display : The Movie.

2011-05-14 Thread Nick


On May 14, 1:11 pm, coggs bob.coggesh...@gmail.com wrote:
 The largest # of B7971s I've ever seen lit up in one place is here:

 http://www.x1024.net/nixie/marquee/

The main use originally was in Ultronics Lectrascan stock ticker
displays...

Not much out there any more about these, but here is a photo of one
module. I have about 10 units (2 tubes per unit) - these turn up
from time to time on eBay and elsewhere - mine came from Proops
(surplus shop) in Tottenham Court Road in London in the 1970s - ISTR
paying about GBP 2 per unit (including tubes - a reasonable sum in
those days). My first 7971s, before the bulk supplies became
available.

I'm sure someone here said in the past they had a whole frame of
these, just like the photo:

http://www.ineedcaffeine.com/content/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/lectrascan-front.jpg

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: B7971 Tubes circuit.

2011-05-24 Thread Nick
Well spotted. A seller (and their sock-puppet) to avoid...

Nick

On May 24, 2:11 pm, Jeff Thomas nixich...@gmail.com wrote:
 What I found more interesting was the bidding pattern for that unit.
 The bidder with a 31 feedback rating, who bid 18 times was also
 bidding exclusively on hikerjims goodies.
 And across a spectrum of odd stuff he has listed.
 He won a few of hikerjims auctions (probably by accident), and so his
 ID is visible.
 And then quit bidding when the price climbed to what he must have
 wanted for the 7971's.

 Ebay can be such a cesspool.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie power supply.

2011-05-25 Thread Nick
They are still there in the Yahoo! group files section: Files  Power
Supply Designs  Switch Mode  NE555

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[neonixie-l] Re: CD47/GR414 to grab

2011-05-31 Thread Nick
On May 30, 10:10 pm, aarggh @aarggh.com aar...@gmail.com wrote:
 Wow! I don't even want to imagine what my wife would do to me if I bought a
 set!

Bearing in mind a set has an added premium value, I would suspect 6
would have to go for approx USD 3,000, maybe more.

Are there still people out there prepared to pay that sort of money?

Hmmm.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Trying to stabilize ins-1 lamps

2011-06-16 Thread Nick


On Jun 17, 5:02 am, MichaelB mbari...@dslextreme.com wrote:
 HI Nick, These little bulbs are real stinkers and quite different from
 the very reliable and stable NE2. They have a habit of looking
 perfectly fine and then, all of a sudden, the illuminated center will
 shift off axis and the brightness will change significantly (wobble).
 They can be a real pain!

I'm well aware of their foibles - I have a few 100 of these in stock -
I'm going to try the ageing in blocks as recommended and will report
back.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Bob Pease is dead

2011-06-20 Thread Nick
On Jun 21, 4:34 am, David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net wrote:
 The great National chip engineer and Electronic Design columnist crashed
 his '69 VW Beetle while driving home from the funeral of Jim Williams,
 another great chip engineer.

 Details at ED, /. and some other places.

Many years ago I had the pleasure of speaking to Jim Williams -
extraordinarily helpful considering I was just some bloke having a
problem with one of his designs - never spoke to Bob though.

Read Bob Pease's articles for years, and have two of his books.
Ironically, one of the books he wrote was entitled How to Drive into
Accidents - And How Not to  - An idiosyncratic, entertaining, and
insightful book on safe driving techniques, for novices and
experienced drivers alike.
http://www.amazon.com/How-Drive-into-Accidents-Not/dp/0965564819 -
note the cover picture includes a VW Beetle - he was driving his one
when he died.

Allegedly he wasn't wearing a seat belt and was driving one handed
when he crashed on a corner and hit a tree - he may have suffered a
heart attack first.

Great loss.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: B7971's for sale (again)

2011-06-24 Thread Nick
On Jun 24, 4:39 pm, David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net wrote:
 On 6/24/11 8:33 AM, micha...@aol.com wrote:

  Jeff,
  Did you find a way to make them?
  /me wondering where you come up with them all.
  Michail

 Buy low, sell high.

 http://www.nixiebunny.com/b7971ad.jpg

 These tubes were available in large quantities at a low price in 2002.

Indeed - it was a good time. Its worth reminding those that don't know
it that the then owner of pretty much the world's stock of these
didn't really want them. When he sold bulk lots of then they were
pretty much just chucked in a box  shipped with minimal packing.

Of the shipments I received, I lost about 20, but he always packed
extra to account for wastage.

http://www.desmith.net/NMdS/Nixies/DSCN1855.JPG

Yes, the newspaper was the only packing - the tubes were close packed
in pathetic boxes in batches of 100 or so. It almost made me weep.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: B7971's for sale (again)

2011-06-25 Thread Nick
On Jun 24, 7:59 pm, Wayne de Geere III wa...@degeere.com wrote:
 This story is breaking my heart. For that sort of breakage, it would have 
 made sense to fly out there and pack them up yourselves. I have to admit, the 
 mea culpas i carry with me would make grown men cry, I know how this feels.

At the time they were pretty cheap - I live in the UK, it would never
have made sense to go there personally.

I did try to get him to pack them properly, but he never did - just
chucked another few in to cover the losses.

The newspaper in the photo is all the packing they had - it the very
same paper they were wrapped in when originally stored in the 1970s
and were still in when he discovered the cache in, I believe, a New
York warehouse. ISTR there were a fewf thousand of them. When shipping
them to us they came in just that sheet of 1970s newspaper - that's
all.

As far as we know he was the only person to have commercial quantities
of these tube - they were all used, and no one has yet seen a genuine
NOS 7971 - lots that claim to be, but none verified. SO this cache
seems to have been the mother lode.

Main problem was that he wasn't a tube guy - he dealt in old coins and
really really didn't want the hassle of wrapping them individually and
shipping them properly. Several of us tried to reason with him, but to
no avail.

Ah. Well. Its done now...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: B7971's for sale (again)

2011-06-26 Thread Nick
On Jun 26, 5:55 am, Nicholas Stock nickst...@gmail.com wrote:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/2x-Burroughs-B-7971-B7971-Nixie-Tube-Vintage-Rare...

 Too rich for my blood!

Interesting - there is an NSN on the box - 5960-00-248-8501

Can anyone translate this to a mfg p/n? Best I can do is:
http://5960.iso-group.com/NSN/5960-00-248-8501

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Threads...

2011-06-27 Thread Nick
People,

Please PLEASE can you:

a) Not change the subject of a thread half way through...
b) Not start a new thread with a subtly different subject to the one
you really meant to reply to.

Google does not provide a way for the moderators to join fractured
threads or to split those that have had their subject changed mid-
stream.

Thanks

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: now a full 7179 clock from the same seller, check out those tubes

2011-06-30 Thread Nick
On Jun 30, 8:53 am, JohnK yend...@internode.on.net wrote:
 Generally, old electrolytic caps that have just been allowed to sit can be
 re-formed and henceforth operate properly.

That's a bit of a sweeping statement. Of the kit I've rebuilt, the
electrolytics have typically dried out, and thus cannot be reformed.
Many were not sealed well and as they were operating is a hostile-ish
environment (near tubes and other sources of heat), they often dry
completely.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Possible source forproducing new nixies?

2011-07-03 Thread Nick
Laser cutting etc. is a tiny tiny part of it. Production of suitable
biscuits (the bases), lead-throughs, all the little ceramic bits 
pieces, getting the cathode  anode compositions right, the frames,
anodes, spotwelding the wires, filling the envelope, degassing,
filling, induction baking, Hg doping, etc. etc.

Its non-trivial. Might be able to buy commercial quantities of
biscuits in audio tube styles (B9A, B13G etc.) - probably a very good
stating point.

NB. I probably wouldn't use laser-cutting anyway, as the heating
effects the metal - profile cutting with water is probably the way to
go.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: 3000 tubes per year?

2011-07-08 Thread Nick


On Jul 8, 5:57 am, dylan roelofs doktorb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Gentlemen-
    My name is Dylan Kehde Roelofs; I've been a scientific glassblower
 for 20 years, and I believe I can answer a few of your questions..
...
Excellent summary from someone who actually knows what they are
talking about - many thanks for that.

Love your work, by the way - absolutely beautiful.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: What I've been up to - Video Coat

2011-07-11 Thread Nick
Cameraphone, bluetooth, let people take photos and send them to your
coat.

Could be fun. Or illegal. Or both. Depends what they photograph...
possibilities are endless...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Nixie tube photographing

2011-07-14 Thread Nick
On Jul 14, 5:44 pm, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote:
 I bought a cheapy light tent on eBay - a 40cm PhotoSEL as 
 inhttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/170626510059

 Came with 2 daylight floods. Does a nice job.

Here's a photo of one of John S's clocks:
http://www.desmith.net/NMdS/Nixies/P1020086.JPG

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[neonixie-l] Re: oscilloscope blues

2011-07-17 Thread Nick
You'll be wanting a copy of Tektronix's XYZs of Oscilloscopes - This
has been in free production for many many years and is continually
updated, to the extent that there is almost no analogue stuff in
recent editions.

The latest version is at 
http://www.tek.com/Measurement/programs/301913X312631/index1.html
(free signup required)

You will have to scout the web for a version that is from about 2000
or before to get the analogue side - I have a PDF from 2002 which has
some analogue content.

Whatever version you end up with, its an excellent document on
'scopes, how to use them, what they are good for, and what they are
rubbish at.

Nick


On Jul 17, 6:37 pm, Mimewar mime...@gmail.com wrote:
 Does anyone here, know of a good   I have an oscilloscope, but don't
 have a clue how to use it guide?  I have had it for over a year, and
 now that I'm getting into more programming, analog/digital, and logic
 circuits, I need to figure it out.  Any help?

 Shane

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[neonixie-l] Using tilt switches...

2011-07-18 Thread Nick
Lurking in the back of my mind was a little thought - several folks
have shown details of clocks they've built using tilt switches to set
the time, but I thought that I'd seem one some years ago...

Just found it - Lady Ada (Limor Fried http://www.ladyada.net/bio/index.html)
did one in 2003 http://www.ladyada.net/portfolio/2003/index.html .
Anyone know of an earlier one?

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Using tilt switches...

2011-07-18 Thread Nick
On Jul 18, 6:19 pm, threeneurons threeneur...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Way back when, when I was 1st learning to program microprocessors (uP,
 not a uC=microcontroller), one of the 1st lab assignments was a
 'debounce algorithm'. Basically a little code that could be finished,
 and tested, in a 1-hour period. Here are a few links on this important
 snippet of code that you should keep in your programming tool kit:

 http://www.labbookpages.co.uk/electronics/debounce.htmlhttp://www.ganssle.com/debouncing.htmhttp://hackaday.com/2010/11/09/debounce-code-one-post-to-rule-them-all/
...

Hmm - I always likes the vertical slice counters - a type of digital
filter - multiple keys/buttons/whatever in a single pass. A fantastic
technique that would incinerate the mind of most so-called
programmers. I wrote an implementation of the idea for PICs back in
2003 - my comments should explain the principle (I tend to comment a
lot in my code, especially when using novel approaches). You might
want to display the following in a fixed width font so that the tables
line up.
The code is simple and concise, the concept slightly less so.

// File : .c
// Author   : Nick de Smith
//
// Revision   Date  By  Reason
//   X0.1   11/09/03NMdSFirst attempt
//
// KeyDeBounce
//
// The purpose of this routine is to debounce, i.e. digitally low pass
filter
// inputs. The algorithm handles upto 8 bits at a time. An input is
considered
// filtered if it has not changed states in the last 4 samples.
//
// 2-bit cyclic vertical counters count the 4 samples. As long as
there is no
// change, the counters are held in the reset state of 00b. When a
change is detected
// between the current sample and the filtered or debounced sample,
the counters
// are incremented. The counting sequence is 00,01,10,11,00... When
the counters
// roll over from 11b to 00b, the debounced state is updated. If the
input changes
// back to the filtered state while the counters are counting, then
the counters
// are re-initialized to the reset state and the filtered state is
unaffected.
// In other words, a glitch or transient input has been filtered.
//
// The 2-bit counters are arranged vertically. In other words 8
counters
// are formed with 2 ubytes such that the corresponding bits in the
ubytes are
// paired (e.g. MSBit of each ubyte is paired to form one counter).
// The counting sequence is 0,1,2,3,0,1,... And the state tables and
Karnaugh
// maps are:
//
// State Table: Karnaugh Maps:
// pres  next  B
//  SS  SS 0   1
//  AB  AB   +---+---++---+---+
//    A 0|   | 1 || 1 |   |
//  00  01   +---+---++---+---+
//  01  10  1| 1 |   || 1 |   |
//  10  11   +---+---++---+---+
//  11  00   A += A ^ B   B += ~B
//
// Here's the PIC code that implements the counter:
//   MOVFSB,W; W = B
//   XORWF   SA,F; A += A ^ B
//   COMFSB,F; B += ~B
// 14 instructions
// 15 cycles
// Inputs:
//  ubNewSample - The current sample
// Outputs
//  gbKeyState - The current value (filtered version of csa)
//
// RAM used
//  ubCountA,
//  ubCountB - State variables for the 8 2-bit counters
//

Have fun

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Higher current HVPS

2011-07-18 Thread Nick
On Jul 18, 8:17 pm, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote:
 I'm looking into building a Class E amplifier and need a 150vdc source
 with some current behind it.. something like 100ma.
 Can I gang MC34063 switching supplies in parallel? Are there particular
 switching supply controller IC's that are better suited to this task?
 What design considerations should I be aware of (and pitfalls)?

 Thanks,
   -Adam W7ATJ

The stuff on my page will do 100mA @ about 87% efficiency without
breaking sweat. I couldn't be bothered to test it higher:
http://www.desmith.net/NMdS/Electronics/NixiePSU.html#highcurrent

HTH

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: New member has a question

2011-07-18 Thread Nick
On Jul 18, 7:30 pm, Joe Croft j...@croftj.net wrote:
 Are all of the young bucks mystified by the use of  the command line? Granted,
 I have learned to debug code w/o a debugger, but that is about all an IDE buys
 you, the debugger.

 I'm stuck using Visual Studio at work and it's a royal pain! Slow to load,
 slow to build, slow to shutdown.The editor sucks too!!! Not that Vim is
 something I use for regular programming. Give me my Graphical editor with it's
 Brief  like emulation! Of course, only a fool tries to work on a unix system
 without knowing the basics of vi, just because!

Get over it. VS is not bad. I've spent many many (far too many) years
designing  working on Unix drivers, OpenVMS internals, custom bit-
slice processor design, Windows, *humungous* systems (70,000
simultaneous users), tiny embedded systems, microwave landing systems
for jet fighters,you mention it.

All systems have their pluses and minuses - they are not religious
icons - they are tools - a means to an end, no more than that.

I've used VS extensively since its first release, I've hacked vim, vi,
sed, TPU, EDT, brief, teco, emacs and probably a 100 other editors 
environments since the mid-70s. Horses for courses - on Windows, VS is
not bad at all, on Unix, I find vi usable and fine, no more than that.
Trying to compare VS (which is a framework) with vi (which is a
completely different beast) is pointless. You don't like the editor
for a particular file type in VS, then change it (do it from the File-
Open-File menu).

Unix systems, when not properly set up, can be a piece of excrement,
as can Windows systems.

Try to remember that Unix is nothing new - the core has been around in
pretty much its current form since the mid 70's - vi was written about
then. Oddly, the rest of the world has moved on, maybe not in a way to
everyone's tastes, but its most certainly moved on. You want to stick
in the dark ages. Do so.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: New member has a question

2011-07-18 Thread Nick

On Jul 19, 12:06 am, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote:
 On 7/18/2011 3:27 PM, Nick wrote:
  I've used VS extensively since its first release, I've hacked vim, vi,
  sed, TPU, EDT, brief, teco, emacs and probably a 100 other editors

 TECO hackers right there on the bench with me!
 And the meanest one of them, the hairiest TECO hacker of them all was coming 
 over to me.
 And he was mean and nasty and horrible and undocumented and all kinds of 
 stuff.
 And he sat down next to me and said:

 [1:i*^Yu14q1377.fnir'q1/400.u1^[[8
 .-z(1702117120m81869946983m8w660873337m8w1466458484m8
 )+z,.f^@fx*[0:ft^]0^[w^\
...

In my early DEC days, we had a game which involved typing your full
name into TECO as control characters and wondering what it did - modem
line noise was especially worrying if you happened to be editing over
a dial-up line (as we all did quite a lot using 300baud acoustic
couplers).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Text_Editor_and_Corrector

Somewhere around, on some old DECtapes, I have some amazing animated
graphic macros I wrote in TECO, ISTR I mostly invoked it using MUNG.

One thing to point out, fun though it was, looking through rose-tinted
glasses, its easy to forget just how crude and user-abhorrent these
systems were...

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: New member has a question

2011-07-19 Thread Nick
On Jul 19, 1:23 pm, JohnK yend...@internode.on.net wrote:
 There may be more than a few out there who don't get the 
 'joke'.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_7C0QGkiVo

Grief! I haven't heard that for 30 years. Great man.

Littering. They all moved away.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: wrong numbers

2011-07-21 Thread Nick
Decoupling should be done EVERY time on EVERY chip - analogue or
digital - right adjacent to the supply pins.

It costs pretty much nothing, and saves a whole bunch of trouble. Just
do it.

Part of the need to do this is that chips today are much much faster
than they used to be, so where frequency response would roll off
before oscillation, nowadays even standard opamps can have GBWs in the
MHz to 10s of MHz range, and logic goes far far higher.

On the analogue side, I'm currently restoring some Quad amps - the
amount of pure twaddle on the www about using loony opamps like the
OPA627 and much faster (in audiophoolery faster = better) class A
drivers  output stages - recipe for high-frequency instability - the
circuit were designed to use the inherent limits of the original
devices.

Maybe I'll just spend 1000 bucks on some speaker cables and
unidirectional 99.9% OFC internal cabling. Not.

Nick

On Jul 21, 9:50 am, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:
 Hi,

  (2) Sprinkle capacitors across power and ground all over your circuit.
  Preferably as close to the power and ground pins of each chip as
  possible. Usually they're 0.1uf (100nf) ceramic capacitors. Some big
  chips require you to use several near them, so read you datasheets.
  Chips are fast. Very fast. They can either generate very brief short
  circuits (in the ballpark of 10nS), and/or be susceptible to these
  very short glitches on the power rails.

 I cannot stress enough how much pain this will spare you. I recently
 built a combined volt- and amperemeter with a 2x16 LCD readout on a
 rather small pcb, and I did point-to-point-wiring like I always do, and
 it did not want to work. Some weird oscillations at the volts ADC. The
 first thing I did was inserting a 100nF cap next to every (!) IC, and
 bam, problem solved.

 Jens

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[neonixie-l] Re: Numitron Clock: 1V ripple on supply voltage due to PWM?

2011-08-07 Thread Nick
On Aug 7, 5:01 pm, David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net wrote:
 On 8/7/11 1:41 AM, jb-electronics wrote:

  David,

  The short answer: Don't use PWM next to a radio receiver.
  You are introducing an interfering radio signal.

  thanks for your reply, however, it is not quite what I was hoping for.
  Since I have discovered the PWM function on my controller I don't want
  to miss it anymore.

 I work on radio telescopes, and we use linear power supplies wherever
 possible, to reduce RF interference.

 you might be able to get the clock to receive radio signal while using
 PWM on the tubes, but you'll spend years getting it to work.

 It's just not worth the trouble.

In the past, I've used systems where I've synched the time/date when
the PWM is not in use, e.g. at night when the display is off so no HV
required, and used a TXCO during the day. Its a good compromise.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Numitron Clock: 1V ripple on supply voltage due to PWM?

2011-08-07 Thread Nick
On Aug 7, 8:09 pm, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote:
 Nick: That's neat, I didn't know you worked at a radio telescope. Pretty
 cool.

Not me - that's David. I used to work at an extremely boring hedge
fund!

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need Help with VFD Power supply

2011-08-07 Thread Nick


On Aug 7, 9:21 pm, Quixotic Nixotic nixot...@blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

 In fairness, and if my memory is correct, Nicko, our chief moderator,  
 suggested that driving a FET from a PIC output could stress the PIC  
 output gate in ways a PIC didn't ought to be stressed and that  
 current sensing and back EMF diodes should be incorporated. I am not  
 the right person to speak about such things but I for one would  
 appreciate a lesson from the experts in this group on such a topic.

Its one of those cases where you may well get away with it for years,
or you may not!

Due to internal capacitances inherent in all transistor types,
negative going pulses will be induced onto the gate of the driving FET
when it turns on or off. When generating 40V or so for a VFD, this is
not generally an issue, but when generating 180V for nixies, these can
be many volts below GND. PICSs and AVRs are generally not good at
handling these incursions, so the addition of a small diode between
the gate and ground (cathode to the gate) will protect the uP port -
this is not the same as the ESD protection most (not all) uP ports
have.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need Help with VFD Power supply

2011-08-08 Thread Nick
On Aug 8, 8:09 am, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote:
 Nick,

  Due to internal capacitances inherent in all transistor types,
  negative going pulses will be induced [...]

 Do you really mean capacitance and not inductance? I do not see how
 capacitors would induce and kind of voltage. Or do you mean the
 capacitors' parasitic inductances?

No - its all to do with the FET and I really mean capacitance - there
are parasitic capacitances between the gate, drain  source of a FET -
these couple the switching transients back to the gate, where they can
cause problems for I/O ports. FET driver chips are specifically
designed to be protected against these transients - I/O ports of uPs
generally are not. You may get away with it. You may not.

The key FET capacitance modelling parameters are:
Cgs is the capacitance between gate  source.
Cgd is the capacitance between gate  drain.
Cds is the capacitance between drain  source.

Your FET data sheets quote:
Ciss which is Cgs in parallel with Cgd
Coss which is Cds in parallel with Cgd
Crss which is the same as Cgd.

Cgd is small compared with Cds, so Coss is almost the same as Cds

You can see that Cgd and Cgs have the capability to couple EMI back to
the gate. If you have a 'scope, stick it on the gate of the FET whilst
its generating 180V under load.

Correct engineering practice is not to Muntz the schematic!
(*) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madman_Muntz

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: OT: Muntzing

2011-08-08 Thread Nick
On Aug 8, 8:47 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote:
 Nick wrote: Cooo Madman Muntz mentioned in two threads on the same
 day! His name liveth evermore...

 Reading Mike's post, though, I got the impression that Muntzing
 circuits is something that is to be avoided. Reading the respective
 Wikipedia article (which is very compact, though), I did not get the
 impression of Muntzing to be something bad.

 Any insights? ;-)

 My own opinion is that Muntzing should only be done by people who really
 know what they are talking about... What do you think?

There is no question. Muntzing, to Muntz or whatever is most
definitely a pejorative term. and strongly so.

Basically, what he did was to remove bits of a good system until it
stopped working, and then just put the last bit back. It was never
good engineering, it was about being cheap and nasty. He went bust.

No professional engineer worth his salt would ever dream of
Muntzing. Not ever.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: OT - SEEED - Cheap PCB supplier

2011-08-16 Thread Nick
On Aug 16, 1:15 pm, H. Carl Ott hcarl...@gmail.com wrote:
  On Aug 15, 9:37 pm, Quixotic Nixotic nixot...@blueyonder.co.uk
  wrote:
  I found them while looking at their logic sniffer, which looks fairly
  awesome to me, but what do I 
  know?http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/open-workbench-logic-sniffer-p-612.h...

  What does the team think about either product?
 On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 4:42 AM, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote:
  However, I had a close look at their logic analyser a while back -
  very nice pretty graphics, but very slow sampling rate so it really
  only useful for very low speed analysis. The sample rate is 24MHz -
  painfully slow - not good for catching glitches etc.

 I thought the logic sniffer had a 200Mhz sample rate (albeit with 1/2
 the channels). At least that's what they advertise.
  I'ts one of the reasons I picked it up (that, the open source nature
 of the project, and the price).

 Where does that 24mhz sample rate come from?

I was refering to the Salea, not the open workbench one.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: The GPS FLW has launched

2011-08-30 Thread Nick
Looks very nice - must have one!

Shipping to UK?

Thanks

Nick

On Aug 30, 7:01 pm, Jeff Thomas nixich...@gmail.com wrote:
 I began a spare time project last January with Pete Hand to develop a
 GPS Four Letter Word using B7971 tubes.
 Jürgen Grau (of NixieTherm fame) has added his skills to design a nice
 Laser Cut acrylic base for it.

 There's been little change from Pete's original FW4 design, aside from
 adding a mini DIN plug on the board to accept an NMEA string from a
 small remote receiver.

 The GPS FLW is assembled using surface mount components, and so is
 offered as an assembled and tested board only at $100.  The owner can
 design their own enclosure, or purchase the pre-cut acrylic version
 for $25. when ready.

 An optional 20 channel GPS receiver is an additional $60

 The GPS FLW including four matched and tested B7971 tubes, with GPS
 receiver is priced at $550. including shipping in the USA.

 The GPS FLW owner doc on PDF:http://www.amug.org/~jthomas/gps-flw.pdf

 Some images of the 
 board:http://www.amug.org/~jthomas/gpsflw1.jpghttp://www.amug.org/~jthomas/gpsflw2.jpghttp://www.amug.org/~jthomas/gpsflw3.jpg

 I accept paypal to my email, or Visa/MC credit cards by phone.

 Regards, Jeff

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[neonixie-l] New members...

2011-09-02 Thread Nick
Just a Hello! from the moderators to welcome the new members - we
seem to have had a (small) stampede of them over the last week or so,
so do please introduce yourselves  your interests to the group...

Cheers

Nick

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[neonixie-l] No numbers...

2011-09-03 Thread Nick
http://andrewback.net/works/No-Numbers

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[neonixie-l] Re: OT - Raspberry Pi $25 credit card size Unix box

2011-09-04 Thread Nick

On Sep 3, 7:15 pm, Quixotic Nixotic nixot...@blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
 Is anyone here following the development of the Raspberry Pi? Yes it's
 a  $25 credit card sized Unix box. I think this could really be
 something quite interesting. On sale in November.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q19aEikc3JIfeature=relatedhttp://www.raspberrypi.org/

I've been watching this for a while since Rory Cellan-Jones
(pronounced Keth-lan-Jones) first mentioned it (I went to school
with him) - what puzzles me is who is funding it? They are all
Cambridge-based (the UK one) and have some good people on board...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raspberry_Pi

It definitely helps that Ebon Upton is a key Broadcom architect.

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[neonixie-l] Re: The Eagle tube pin position calculator ULP thingy

2011-09-05 Thread Nick
You need to

On Sep 5, 2:24 pm, fixitsan chefin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks Nick
 I'm very rusty on Eagle and have downloaded the latest 5.1-something
 version.
 Your software has drawn a lovely looking component for me and Eagle
 lets me save it as a library and also view it from the program main
 page, but when I start a new schematic the new library named IV-17
 isn't found. Very frustrating !

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[neonixie-l] Re: The Eagle tube pin position calculator ULP thingy

2011-09-05 Thread Nick

On Sep 5, 2:24 pm, fixitsan chefin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Your software has drawn a lovely looking component for me and Eagle
 lets me save it as a library and also view it from the program main
 page, but when I start a new schematic the new library named IV-17
 isn't found. Very frustrating !

Eagle only searches libraries that are active - in the Control
Panel, expand the Libraries tab and right click on your new one,
then select Use - either that or left click on where the green dot
would be to select/deselect the library.

If your library isn't in the list, you can add alternative library
search paths - I always keep all my custom files (ULPs, libraries
etc.) in a project tree - in Eagle's Control Panel, go to Options
and select Directories - you can specify lists of semi-colon-
delimited search paths for personal files.

Due to windows' use of UAC, under Vista  Windows 7 no program should
store data in the Program Files... tree. Also, when a new version of
Eagle is installed, your personal files will be left in the old tree.

I keep a Projects tree for all my data, i.e. e:\Projects\Eagle\
{project-name}\... e:\Projects\Eagle\dru e:\Projects\Eagle\ulp e:
\Projects\Eagle\lib etc.

Alternative search paths are maintained across releases of Eagle.

HTH

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: The Eagle tube pin position calculator ULP thingy

2011-09-06 Thread Nick
Don't modify the Eagle standard (as in distributed) libraries - they
are potentially over-written with every new release - create your own
library, say, fixitsan.lib, and put all your bits in there.

I do this for pretty much every part I use - there are quite a few
interesting things in the Eagle standard libraries, not all of them
good. By copying parts to your own library, you can then check that
spacings, layers, pads etc. are all to your liking and are correct.

Nick

On Sep 6, 9:55 am, fixitsan chefin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks Nick. That has helped with me creating a new IV-17 tube
 component from scratch.

 Now, I am trying to create a new component in the Supertex library for
 the HV5812, which is a wide bodied 28 pin dil package.
 I've opened the Supertex library, selected 'New' and can't seem to
 bring in the DIL outline from the 'IC-package' library, to pick up the
 wide 28-pin device for use as a starting point.

 Maybe I should try copying the device from that library into the
 Supertex library ?

 On Sep 6, 5:51 am, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote:







  Eagle only searches libraries that are active - in the Control
  Panel, expand the Libraries tab and right click on your new one,
  then select Use - either that or left click on where the green dot
  would be to select/deselect the library.

  Nick

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[neonixie-l] Is everyone on holiday?

2011-09-21 Thread Nick
Just wondering... We've had a rash of new members recently, so rather
than just lurk in the shadows, why don't you all say a bit about
yourselves  your interests to the group...

Cheers

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Help with tube bases please...

2011-09-25 Thread Nick


On Sep 22, 6:16 pm, Dieter Waechter i...@nocrotec.com wrote:
 Hi Gang,
 Can anyone help me with the following tube base information:

 1970-0058 - Is this the same as a BR13404 panaplex as used in the HP 5360? It 
 has an NSN number = 5960-00-566-5963

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Introductions

2011-09-29 Thread Nick
Hi and welcome to the group. If you are in the UK, I can help you out
with tubes etc. but it wouldn't be economic otherwise.

Whole bunches of designs out there but with an EE background, I'm sure
a simple standard logic or uP-based solution could be built for 20
bucks ex-tubes on perf board or whatever. Using IN-14s or -16s, you
should get them for USD 10-15 or so for 4, and most of the rest can be
obtained from salvaged parts - only a few speciality parts - 1
inductor (about 100 to 220uH), 1 fast diode (UF4007 or similar), a
reasonable commodity HV FET (like an IRF730A or similar) and a small
fairly low ESR HV capacitor (between 1  3.3uF, 200V - use 2 or more
1uF in parallel to drop the overall ESR cheaply)

It might be interesting to see just how cheaply a 4-digit clock can be
built, rather than the rather expensive stuff the most of us churn
out... !

Cheers

Nick

On Sep 28, 4:40 pm, mike logan...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello All
 My name is Mike and I have two sons, Lucian 9 and Julian  6 and we
 love Nixie tubes. I have some what of an electronics background and I
 think it would be great if me and my boys could build a clock that
 also has indoor/outdoor temperature sensors.  We'd like to use a tube
 like an  IN-14.

 Were on a fixed income and I was figuring I could get some advice
 about suppliers from this board. I need a supplier that will let me
 buy $20-30 worth of parts at a time until I have all the parts
 together.  I also figured that there a probably a lot of people on
 this board who have a lot of near ideas.

 I know my boys are going to love this. THey love making things with
 daddy. RIght now I have $20 in Ebay bucks to spend on this project,
 what should I spend it on?

 Thanks a lot in advance for any help you can give

 Mike, Lucian and Julian

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[neonixie-l] Re: Introductions

2011-09-29 Thread Nick
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200652238626#ht_2520wt_964

IN-17 - nice very small end view tube with wire connections (no
expensive socket or pins). Also has a real 5 rather than inverted
2 (unlike IN-14)

Nice tube too...

Nick

On Sep 29, 6:20 pm, mike logan...@gmail.com wrote:
 Adam
 I've got some micro control experience dating back to the early 80's,
 having to do with fine control of  heating and air conditioning
 equipment. At that time it was still, replace the individual
 component, instead of replace the entire board. Replace the entire
 board came about 3 years later. So, I can read a schematic, I can
 solder and I remember some electrical theory and fundamentals and we
 have this wonderful internet that's like having the library of
 congress in your living room, so I figure I'll start remembering some
 of it, and I can study up on what I forgot. So, I'd like to design
 something myself, or I can go off a kit for the first one just to
 remind me what's going on.  I want to start doing these clocks, etc.
 with my sons, so they can learn some basic electrical fundamentals,
 and learn how to solder, and have some  neat father/son time together.
 Also, I wanted to try to make an over thermometer because analog oven
 thermostats have a 15-20 degree temp. swing in them. So I thought that
 would be an interesting project.  Some people like to have a little
 bit more fine control over their ovens.  And then I stumbled upon this
 board, and it seems like there are a lot of experts here.

 Well, gotta run, talk to y'all later.

 Thanks for the advice
 Mike

 On Sep 29, 9:52 am, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote:







  I almost hate to look at nixie tube prices on ebay anymore, it always
  makes me wince. Are IN-14's really almost $8/each NOS nowadays? Maybe
  I'll stop building clocks and just set aside all the tubes I have as my
  retirement plan.

  With that said, I would probably avoid used tubes, especially of the
  already on a sketchy PCB variety. This is your first clock, you'll
  want the tubes to be in good shape and you'll want to know that they
  work. I see an auction for 4x NOS IN-14's at $29, I think that's where I
  would start. You don't have to have seconds on your clock (to start
  with?) or you could go with a pair of IN-16's or IN-17's for the
  seconds. I know that IN-17's are still cheap, IN-16's might be
  skyrocketing as well.

  The side-view tubes seem to go up in price much much faster / higher
  than the end-view tubes. I assume that this is because they look like a
  vacuum tube and people like the aesthetic. If I was going to build a
  nixie clock on a serious budget, as you are, I'd head straight for the
  NOS IN-12's. However, also remember that the nixies will probably be the
  most expensive portion of your clock, so budget accordingly.

  You mention that you would like to build a clock that also has a
  temperature sensor, that is very doable. Do you have any microcontroller
  experience? Were you planning to design this clock or hoping to build it
  from a kit?

  -Adam

  On 9/29/2011 9:41 AM, mike wrote:

   john

   em I reading this right

   1 (one) PCB with :

   5 pieces Z574M tubes

   +

   3 or 4 piece SN7s4141N OR MH74141 OR KD155ID1 (soviet clone of 74141)
   ICs per bid!

      5     Z574M
                       +
   3 or 4 other tubes

   for a total of 8 or 9 nixie tubes for $33

  http://www.ebay.com/itm/300598781886?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT_trksid...

   thanks

      mike

   On Sep 29, 7:50 am, John Rehwinkeljreh...@mac.com  wrote:
   is this a good buy? I would like to have the side view tubes but
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-IN-12B-IN-15A-IN-15B-NIXIE-TUBES-PCB-Sock...
   I'd be leery of those pot luck auctions.  You might get 9 IN-15B 
   tubes, which don't display numerals.  I'm fond of 'em,
   because they're different, and it would make an interesting clock, but 
   you'd have to remember that Hz meant 4 and
   οΏ½ meant 7 or whatever if you wanted to read it.

   - John KG4L

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[neonixie-l] Re: Introductions

2011-09-30 Thread Nick
These are nice - I have some in the same housing and the price is good
- note the shipping costs and delivery estimate.

Big plus is that you also get a very usable frame for your clock
gratis.

Nick

On Sep 30, 2:09 am, mike logan...@gmail.com wrote:
 there cool a little small how about these there NOS

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kit-Nixie-Clock-Project-IN-14-driver-4-tubes-...

 mike

 On Sep 29, 4:04 pm, micha...@aol.com wrote:







  Nick,

  I agree.   Problem is they are so small.

  The seller is reputable though.

  Michail

  In a message dated 9/29/2011 2:32:10 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  

  n...@desmith.net writes:

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/200652238626#ht_2520wt_964

  IN-17 -  nice very small end view tube with wire connections (no
  expensive socket or  pins). Also has a real 5 rather than inverted
  2 (unlike  IN-14)

  Nice tube  too...

  Nick

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[neonixie-l] Vetinari clock...

2011-10-11 Thread Nick
Kinda fun - http://hackaday.com/2011/10/06/vetinari-clock-will-drive-you-insane/

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Vetinari clock...

2011-10-11 Thread Nick
On Oct 11, 4:18 pm, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote:
 Kinda fun 
 -http://hackaday.com/2011/10/06/vetinari-clock-will-drive-you-insane/

Actually, easily done with a nixie clock - could even go backwards a
bit once in a while, so long as overall its accurate-ish.

For those that don't know, the idea springs from the demented mind of
Terry Pratchett - the clock is deliberately designed to unsettle the
observer - have a look at the video on the page...

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[neonixie-l] Photographing VFDs...

2011-10-25 Thread Nick
I'm trying to get good, consistent, photographs of a VFD display
(single tube) and have having trouble with getting the colours right 
decent detail - this is when the tube is lit (all segments).

Anyone done this with good success and care to share settings/
technique etc.?

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Re-coating nixies VFDs...

2011-10-26 Thread Nick
Actually, if you multiply it up, its a bit cheaper to buy it by the
litre (GBP 22 from Flints vs. 4*6.58 = 26.32 from GLS), but 250ml is
probably enough for at least 100+ tubes of any size (except CD47s!),
so a litre would be a waste - Flints only sell by the litre, the
reason I used Gold Leaf Supplies is that they sell in 250ml bottles so
much cheaper in real terms...

I put it in a narrow pyrex lab beaker so you actually need very little
volume of FEV to dip the average tube - maybe 100ml? Pour unused FEV
back into the bottle and clean beaker with meths.

I've done 10 tubes and probably used about 1 to 2 ml so far (I can
barely see the drop in the bottle - as much is wasted on the walls of
the beaker as is used on the tubes and the coating is very thin !).

Nick

On Oct 26, 10:13 am, Quixotic Nixotic nixot...@blueyonder.co.uk
wrote:
 On 26 Oct 2011, at 09:14, Nick wrote:

  I therefore ordered 250ml of Mauve from
 http://www.goldleafsupplies.co.uk/acatalog/
  V_French_Enamel_Varnish.html.

  ...FEV is available in a very wide range of colours - it is expensive,
  but you don't need much. I had a whole bunch of rather rare VFDs with
  damaged coatings - now they are like new.

 Nick,

 I think it depends where you buy it. If you go to a theatrical place  
 it will be cheaper, or you will get much larger bottles for your bucks.

 http://www.flints.co.uk/acatalog/French_Enamel_Varnish.html

 John S

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[neonixie-l] Re: Re-coating nixies VFDs...

2011-10-27 Thread Nick
On Oct 26, 11:56 am, Per Jensen elektronikbik...@gmail.com wrote:
 Pictures !!

 I want to see the dipped tubes :-)

https://picasaweb.google.com/101626975611011778867/VFDStainY1938

Not great pictures - still playing with how to get rid of the
reflections

Photos are my first attempts - subsequently I've got the rim of the
stain much more even.

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Photographing VFDs...

2011-10-27 Thread Nick
On Oct 25, 6:59 pm, David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net wrote:
 I just spent some large amount of time with professional photographers
 working with both my Nixie watch and my LED video coat. They took hours
 and hundreds of pictures to get a couple good shots. I watched their
 methods.
...

This is pretty much where I got to before I got bored with it all. I
adjusted the white balance, but that then throws everything else off.
I also couldn't get the camera to accurately reproduce the VFD colour
at all. I have a small translucent (diffusing) light tent (about
1mtr3) and some daylight floods ( 3 x 100W) to use with it, but you
still get reflections even with very diffuse light - the glass/FEV is
just so shiny. Not to mention I'm only using a Panasonic TZ-5...

What I'm resorting to is getting a decent photo, the photo-shopping it
as you mention alongside a lit tube so that I get the colour right. I
used to work with some graphics designers who had a marvellous thing
that read the colour and gave you the Pantone equivalent - it was
integrated with the enormous Canon pre-press printers and Apple
workstations they were using. I miss having them around - they would
have just grabbed the actual colour and given me the RGB (or
whatever), at which point I'd be sorted!

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Photographing VFDs...

2011-10-27 Thread Nick
On Oct 27, 3:50 pm, John Rehwinkel jreh...@mac.com wrote:
  but you
  still get reflections even with very diffuse light - the glass/FEV is
  just so shiny.

 For curved glass surfaces, light boxes don't really help as they spread out 
 the light source, so I tend to go for small light sources and adjust the 
 angles of the lights, camera, and subject to place the reflections away from 
 the point of interest.

 The polarizer trick I mentioned is also useful to selectively reduce the 
 reflected light.

I suspect that the polariser sheet may work well - I had a large roll
of polarised Mylar film somewhere for use on office windows that was
in my workshops somewhere - can't find it at the moment...

Sounds like the right approach though...

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[neonixie-l] Re: Gas Mixture in Nixie Tubes

2011-10-29 Thread Nick
I'm having this discussion at the moment with a neon specialist - the
Penning mixture varied, as did the baking, pressure, type of glass 
level of Hg doping. Some tubes had getters which only fire once, so
refilling, which is what I'm investigating, is non trivial. Its a
completely different process to that used for neon signs...

I have a few potentially extremely nice tubes that have out-gassed
(nipple broken etc) and I'm looking at restoring these...

Nick

On Oct 29, 9:58 am, Jens Boos webmas...@jb-electronics.de wrote:
 Hi folks,

 I was wondering, what exact gas mixture is used in Nixie tubes? I
 heard about 2% Argon in Neon, would that work?

 Regards,
 Jens

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[neonixie-l] Re: Gas Mixture in Nixie Tubes

2011-10-29 Thread Nick
Weston (section 9.4.2, page 333/334) recommends 99% Ne, 1% Ar @ 30 -
40 Torr (about 4000 Pascals) for numerical tubes.

Nick

On Oct 29, 2:49 pm, John Rehwinkel jreh...@mac.com wrote:
  Yup, 2% Ar will work just fine.  Striking voltage may be a little higher, 
  maintaining voltage should be about the same.

  That's OK I guess, since I am not trying to optimize the mixture, I am just 
  trying to get started. I have a 500V power supply @ 50mA available, that 
  should work.

 Yeah, that should be plenty.  Start with a largish anode resistor and reduce 
 it until the entire cathode is lighted (but avoid
 getting over a few milliamps flowing).

  What is the difference between a tack and a spot welder? I was going to 
  look for a spot welder (although you can actually build them yourself).

 A tack welder uses a capacitor discharge for a quick weld.  A spot welder 
 uses high current to weld.  You can build
 both of them yourself, and either should work fine for tube/nixie building.  
 The usual approach to an easy spot welder
 is to remove the high voltage secondary from a microwave oven transformer and 
 replace it with a few turns of heavy
 (8 gauge or so) wire.

  For cathodes (and the anode mesh) I am planning to use 1.2mm stainless 
  steel wire.

 Worth a try.  I'd probably try nickel or iron, but almost anything should 
 work to start with.

  But what should I use as a glas frit?

 Schott makes some solder glass that should be suitable:

 http://www.schott.com/

 Alternatively, if you can get some large bore (20mm - 30mm diameter) lead 
 glass tubing, you should be able to seal
 it directly to the stems using a crossfire or even a hand torch and some 
 care.  You'll probably want to anneal it before
 pumpdown.

  And what kind of burner for melting the glass is appropiate? Propane and 
  oxygen?

 The sort of tools used for neon glass work should be suitable:

 http://www.egl-lighting.com/cannonfires.html

 http://www.egl-lighting.com/torches.html

 A glass lathe would be ideal, but might be a bit expensive to start with.  Or 
 you could try building your own (the concept
 is simple, two chucks that rotate in synchrony).

 Propane and air is probably sufficient, but oxygenating it can get you some 
 extra heat.  Some neon benders use the
 sort of oxygen concentrator used for medical purposes to enrich the air 
 stream without needing bottled oxygen.

  Thanks! But at the moment I will go for wire cathodes National Union 
  style ;-)

 Makes sense.  May I assume that the stems showed up?

 - Cheers,
 John

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[neonixie-l] Re: Gas Mixture in Nixie Tubes

2011-10-29 Thread Nick
Don't forget the hint of Hg if you want the tube to have a decent
life.

On Oct 29, 7:50 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:
 Thanks!

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[neonixie-l] Re: Gas Mixture in Nixie Tubes

2011-10-30 Thread Nick
Jens is in a University - I'm sure someone somewhere will have access
to one ! However, etching is a good option too, but with 12mil/0.25mm
there may well be a lot of undercutting.

ISTR that someone on this group (John S?) has the glyphs for the Z568
series - those and the ZM1040 are lovely, though I like the GR10Js...

Should have mentioned that the fill pressure is a vital part of all
this process - you need to experiment. Actually, you need a copy of
Bylander Electronic Displays, Texas Instruments, 1979 (ISBN:
0-07-009510-8) - Maybe there are PDF copies on-line. Weston would be
good (I know some folk have scanned that), and Dance Electronic
Counting Circuits has useful information too,

Nick


On Oct 30, 4:02 am, John Rehwinkel jreh...@mac.com wrote:
  Have the cathodes laser-cut - far easier.

 If you don't happen to have your own Nd:YAG laser, and you want to make 
 cathodes at home,
 you can photoetch many metals just like printed circuit boards without the 
 board.  Granted, I
 don't know offhand if ammonium persulfate or ferric chloride will dissolve 
 molybdenum, but
 presumably if they won't, something will.

 - John

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[neonixie-l] Re: Gas Mixture in Nixie Tubes

2011-10-30 Thread Nick


On Oct 30, 7:13 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:

 Remains the question about the spot welder. MOT or caps? I have to say,
 I slightly tend towards the MOT solution because it appears safer. What
 do you say?

MOT is probably safer and far less complex. You can use the cabling
from a tough set of battery charger leads or, as I do, use the cable
used by welding machines (very flexible  high current).

Use a solid-state relay trigger to switch the MOT with a monostable
set to about 100mS. If you want to be cute, add a lock-out period
after firing of about 500mS to prevent continual firing  abuse. Use
brass, not tungsten, electrodes. Cut both secondaries off the MOT with
a hacksaw - that is the HV one (fine wire with one end actually
connected to the MOT EI cores) and the magnetron filament winding (a
few turns of very heavy wire in the middle). Add new windings - about
5 should do, of your very heavy secondary wire - you should aim for
about 1.5V at a couple of 100 Amps. Using the monostable means that
you can overdrive the cable as you are only powering it for a very
short time - secondary should be using something like 4 AWG wire. Make
sure you earth the EI core and fuse everything - primary should have
slow-blow fuses. Make sure your solid-state relay is rated for
inductive loads and has a snubber network... use a mains filer to
prevent the cr*p getting back into the house power. If you can afford
it, use a zero-crossing solid-state relay.

Its simple to do this with discrete components - avoid uPs - they may
well object to the huge current pulses flying around and are a
completely unnecessary complication.

HTH

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Gas Mixture in Nixie Tubes

2011-10-30 Thread Nick
On Oct 30, 7:13 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:
 Remains the question about the spot welder. MOT or caps? I have to say,
 I slightly tend towards the MOT solution because it appears safer. What
 do you say?

MOT is probably safer and far less complex. You can use the cabling
from a tough set of battery charger leads or, as I do, use the cable
used by welding machines (very flexible  high current).

Use a solid-state relay trigger to switch the MOT with a monostable
set to about 100mS. If you want to be cute, add a lock-out period
after firing of about 500mS to prevent continual firing  abuse. Use
brass, not tungsten, electrodes. Cut both secondaries off the MOT
with
a hacksaw - that is the HV one (fine wire with one end actually
connected to the MOT EI cores) and the magnetron filament winding (a
few turns of very heavy wire in the middle). Add new windings - about
5 should do, of your very heavy secondary wire - you should aim for
about 1.5V at a couple of 100 Amps. Using the monostable means that
you can overdrive the cable as you are only powering it for a very
short time - secondary should be using something like 4 AWG wire.
Make
sure you earth the EI core and fuse everything - primary should have
slow-blow fuses. Make sure your solid-state relay is rated for
inductive loads and has a snubber network... use a mains filer to
prevent the cr*p getting back into the house power. If you can afford
it, use a zero-crossing solid-state relay.

Its simple to do this with discrete components - avoid uPs - they may
well object to the huge current pulses flying around and are a
completely unnecessary complication.

eBay 380381237513 looks like a suitable SSR at a fair price.

HTH

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Gas Mixture in Nixie Tubes

2011-10-31 Thread Nick
On Oct 31, 6:05 am, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:
 Hello Nick,
 Thanks for the insight, but the filtering does not sound trivial to me.
 As it appears, MOT spot welders can also be made without any
 electronics:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VG1xVNpm7k8

 How much current is actually flowing in the primary circuit?

MOTS are typically 2KVA, so 8 -10 amps typically with  switch-on
surge. You can do the same as that YouTube video, but its very crude -
sledgehammer approach with absolutely no safety against overloading -
far better for what you are trying to achieve (which is quite
delicate) to have control, repeatability and be a bit more subtle by
using euro 15 of electronics and doing a proper job. Filtering is easy
- just use a filtered IEC 320 EN 60320 C14 (aka kettle lead) input
mains socket - C12/C13/C14s are good for 10A @250VAC.

Do it once. Do it right! (and be safe!)

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: I´m back

2011-11-03 Thread Nick
What makes you happy then :-)

Its not ideal, I know - the lack of a files section for a start, but
at least its here! We'd really appreciate ideas for improvement...

Nick

On Nov 3, 5:26 am, Jan Wuesten askjanfi...@googlemail.com wrote:
 finally jumped over to google, not really happy yet but maybe this will
 change :-)

 Have a nice day

 Jan

 www.askjanfirst.com

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[neonixie-l] Re: I´m back

2011-11-03 Thread Nick
On Nov 3, 9:13 am, Jan Wuesten askjanfi...@googlemail.com wrote:
 Problem is though I have a forwarding set on my gmail account to forward
 all mail to my real email address where everything comes together google
 does NOT forward the list messages there nor does it allow in it´s group
 settings any alternative email to CC the group messages like yahoo did...

 I use gmail only as a backup and not regulary so following the list is,
 well, going down the hill a bit with google...

Hmmm. As it happens, we now have complete control over the old Yahoo
group - I'm not the owner of that one - another mod is who is
sympathetic to the group - the three owner/mods of this group between
them own  are mods of the Yahoo group too. Ray is no longer involved
in any way - he's handed over complete control.

In theory, we could move back there, but its a big ask now that
several 100 members have moved here. You can view the forum in a
variety of ways - look at the options settings in the top right.

My BIGGEST gripe is the lack of a files section for photos etc.
Still awaiting ideas on that one...

Nick (owner/mod)

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[neonixie-l] Re: Moving hosts

2011-11-03 Thread Nick
We're not moving again (*) - it would be painful, and I believe
completely unnecessary.

A file dump would be useful - we're open to suggestions. 1Gb should be
plenty, though 200-500Mb would probably be more than enough.

Nick
(*) ...unless Google discontinue Groups, which is unlikely. However,
the setting up of the mail-archive mirror was part of insurance
against that remote possibility. I believe in a belt-and-braces
approach...

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[neonixie-l] Re: Moving hosts

2011-11-04 Thread Nick
On Nov 4, 8:08 am, marcin marcin.r.adam...@gmail.com wrote:
 What is wrong with using Google Documents for storing files and such?
 I understand that they are the replacement/enhancement for the file
 section.

...as it happens, some time ago I created a Google Sites NEONIXIE-L
Wiki as a replacement for the files section...

https://sites.google.com/site/neonixiewiki/

As you may notice, I've not done anything with it. Should anyone be
keen enough to lend a hand getting it in order, that would be great -
we can then invite the whole of the google group neonixie-l to allow
access to edit the wiki.

What I'm really looking for here is a member who understands Google
Sites (or wants to !!) who is prepared to help lay down some structure
 templates before we let the world loose on it !

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: Interesting swap meet find today

2011-11-06 Thread Nick
On Nov 6, 2:02 pm, Terry S tschw10...@aol.com wrote:
 Jens,

 It's actually worse than that!

 5:23:31 becomes:

 1010
 010
 1100
 110
 1000

 So not only is it not binary, but the bit ordering is backwards.
 Which makes it all the more interesting :-)

Perhaps its the Chinese version? (or Hebrew, or Arabic, or...)

Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: 2.5kV power supplier for Nimo tube

2011-11-08 Thread Nick
On Nov 8, 12:48 am, Jeff Thomas nixich...@gmail.com wrote:
 Marcin,
 Back in 2003; I used a low cost CFL Inverter, and added a multiplier
 on the backside to power a one tube NIMO clock called the CyClock.
 Here is a link to the schematic in PDF 
 form:http://www.amug.org/~jthomas/cyclock.pdf

Jeff - I presume the D1862 are 2SD1862s - what are the characteristics
of the transformer on the HT side? Does the HT need to be regulated?
(you could take feedback from the cathode of D5)

Nice circuit anyway!

Nick

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