Re: Advice on large format photography

2016-11-08 Thread Bulent Celasun
Dear Boris,

Many thanks for the offer.
I have a handful of (!) medium formats around and I find it difficult
to behave like a logical creature.
Extremely difficult...
That is the problem :(

Bulent
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2016-11-07 14:32 GMT+03:00 Boris Liberman :
> Bulent,
>
> I have 6x6 folder laying around... Can be yours if you feel like it.
>
> On 7 Nov 2016 12:48, "Bulent Celasun"  wrote:
>
>> I am about to retire...
>>
>> I will be having (hopefully) more time to devote to myself.
>> And myself considers reading / writing / photographing more
>> productively in the coming years.
>> Incidentally, I can get a 5x7 Arca Swiss (older type) in very good
>> condition with a new bellows for an acceptable (not very low) price.
>> The lens is a 180/5.6 Schneider.
>> A lens plate for macrophotography for mounting a reversed enlarger
>> lens may be supplied later.
>> The rear standard well be equipped with 4x5 adapter (film is a lot
>> easier to find for this) and probably another one for Fuji GX680. I
>> happen to have a Fuji GX680 to Hasselblad CFV-39 digital back...
>>
>> ...
>>
>> I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
>> give me some advice on this.
>> Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?
>>
>> Bulent
>>
>>
>> -
>> http://patoloji.gen.tr
>> http://celasun.wordpress.com/
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bc_the_path/
>> http://photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2226822
>> http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/bulentcelasun
>>
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Re: Advice on large format photography

2016-11-08 Thread Bulent Celasun
Alan,

>I sure hope it works out that way, Bulent.
>I seem to have been so busy in rtirement I sometimes wonder how I ever found 
>time to work.

Thanks, Alan,

I understand you well and I have my fears.
Even now, days seem to past to fast when I remain home!

I can only hope that it works out -at least in part- that way...

Bulent
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2016-11-07 14:16 GMT+03:00 Alan C <c...@lantic.net>:
> I sure hope it works out that way, Bulent. I seem to have been so busy in
> rtirement I sometimes wonder how I ever found time to work.
>
> Alan C
>
> -Original Message- From: Bulent Celasun
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2016 12:47 PM
> To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
> Subject: Advice on large format photography
>
>
> I am about to retire...
>
> I will be having (hopefully) more time to devote to myself.
> And myself considers reading / writing / photographing more
> productively in the coming years.
> Incidentally, I can get a 5x7 Arca Swiss (older type) in very good
> condition with a new bellows for an acceptable (not very low) price.
> The lens is a 180/5.6 Schneider.
> A lens plate for macrophotography for mounting a reversed enlarger
> lens may be supplied later.
> The rear standard well be equipped with 4x5 adapter (film is a lot
> easier to find for this) and probably another one for Fuji GX680. I
> happen to have a Fuji GX680 to Hasselblad CFV-39 digital back...
>
> ...
>
> I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
> give me some advice on this.
> Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?
>
> Bulent
>
>
> -
> http://patoloji.gen.tr
> http://celasun.wordpress.com/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bc_the_path/
> http://photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2226822
> http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/bulentcelasun
>
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Re: Advice on large format photography

2016-11-07 Thread Paul Stenquist
Excellent!

Paul via phone

> On Nov 7, 2016, at 6:10 PM, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
> 
> On 7/11/16, Paul Stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:
> 
>> I'm retired, so I now work only about 7 hours a day! Wouldn't have it
>> any other way.
> 
> Haha! Love it.
> 
> If you want an idea of what I'll be filling my time with, these Youtube
> videos will give a good hint ;-)
> 
>  M1B9aJc=PLvD5qlROxJu3r8aIu4JitzFHsqu1pxDAO>
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
>  Cotty
> 
> 
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> ||  (O)  |Web Video Production
> --
> _
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Advice on large format photography

2016-11-07 Thread Steve Cottrell
On 7/11/16, Steve Cottrell, discombobulated, unleashed:

>M1B9aJc=PLvD5qlROxJu3r8aIu4JitzFHsqu1pxDAO>

or this



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Re: Advice on large format photography

2016-11-07 Thread Steve Cottrell
On 7/11/16, Paul Stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:

>I'm retired, so I now work only about 7 hours a day! Wouldn't have it
>any other way.

Haha! Love it.

If you want an idea of what I'll be filling my time with, these Youtube
videos will give a good hint ;-)




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  Cotty


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Re: Advice on large format photography

2016-11-07 Thread Paul Stenquist
I'm retired, so I now work only about 7 hours a day! Wouldn't have it any other 
way.

Paul via phone

> On Nov 7, 2016, at 5:30 PM, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
> 
> On 7/11/16, Bulent Celasun, discombobulated, unleashed:
> 
>> I am about to retire...
> 
> I am envious! And about 18 months behind you.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
>  Cotty
> 
> 
> ___/\__Broadcast, Corporate,
> ||  (O)  |Web Video Production
> --
> _
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Advice on large format photography

2016-11-07 Thread Steve Cottrell
On 7/11/16, Bulent Celasun, discombobulated, unleashed:

>I am about to retire...

I am envious! And about 18 months behind you.

Good luck!

-- 


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  Cotty


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Re: Advice on large format photography

2016-11-07 Thread Collin B
> I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
>give me some advice on this.
>Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?
>
>Bulent

I would recommend against a 5x7 camera for practical reasons.
1) if you're shooting 4x5, the camera is a lot bigger
2) if you're able to find 5x7 film ... good for you. It's hard to find.
You'll end up with a bulky 4x5.

That said ...
4x5 results are awesome.
8x10 is, too.

But ... up to 16x20 it's tough to see the different between a quality medium
format shot (like a Blad, Mamiya RZ, or Fuji) and a 4x5.
So if you're printing 11x14 and you're not needing to do any lens movements
a medium format might be a better bet.
If you're shooting landscapes or table-top stills where you want some rise
or tilt, then consider a 4x5 body with a roll back.
But then you'll have to spend a good amount on quality lenses lest your
shots look a bit low in contrast or detail.  (IOW, avoid the old 50s & 60s
vintage Schneiders.)

Of course a medium format with everything might be the Fuji GX680 series.
Quality glass and solid hardware. Plus all the movements you'll probably
need.  And it's a lot easier to process file medium format negs.

My thoughts are then:
First) 4x5. You'll be able to do medium format as well as sheet film. Not
very heavy but holders can be bulky.
Second) Medium format will let you do everything a 4x5 will. More weight on
the hardware side, less work in the darkroom.
Third) 8x10. Make your time worthwhile and just print contacts. You'll not
be disappointed. But you'll spend a bunch per shot so make 'em count.



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Re: Advice on large format photography

2016-11-07 Thread Boris Liberman
Bulent,

I have 6x6 folder laying around... Can be yours if you feel like it.

On 7 Nov 2016 12:48, "Bulent Celasun"  wrote:

> I am about to retire...
>
> I will be having (hopefully) more time to devote to myself.
> And myself considers reading / writing / photographing more
> productively in the coming years.
> Incidentally, I can get a 5x7 Arca Swiss (older type) in very good
> condition with a new bellows for an acceptable (not very low) price.
> The lens is a 180/5.6 Schneider.
> A lens plate for macrophotography for mounting a reversed enlarger
> lens may be supplied later.
> The rear standard well be equipped with 4x5 adapter (film is a lot
> easier to find for this) and probably another one for Fuji GX680. I
> happen to have a Fuji GX680 to Hasselblad CFV-39 digital back...
>
> ...
>
> I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
> give me some advice on this.
> Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?
>
> Bulent
>
>
> -
> http://patoloji.gen.tr
> http://celasun.wordpress.com/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bc_the_path/
> http://photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2226822
> http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/bulentcelasun
>
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> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and
> follow the directions.
>
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Re: Advice on large format photography

2016-11-07 Thread Alan C
I sure hope it works out that way, Bulent. I seem to have been so busy in 
rtirement I sometimes wonder how I ever found time to work.


Alan C

-Original Message- 
From: Bulent Celasun

Sent: Monday, November 07, 2016 12:47 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Advice on large format photography

I am about to retire...

I will be having (hopefully) more time to devote to myself.
And myself considers reading / writing / photographing more
productively in the coming years.
Incidentally, I can get a 5x7 Arca Swiss (older type) in very good
condition with a new bellows for an acceptable (not very low) price.
The lens is a 180/5.6 Schneider.
A lens plate for macrophotography for mounting a reversed enlarger
lens may be supplied later.
The rear standard well be equipped with 4x5 adapter (film is a lot
easier to find for this) and probably another one for Fuji GX680. I
happen to have a Fuji GX680 to Hasselblad CFV-39 digital back...

...

I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
give me some advice on this.
Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?

Bulent


-
http://patoloji.gen.tr
http://celasun.wordpress.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bc_the_path/
http://photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2226822
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/bulentcelasun

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Advice on large format photography

2016-11-07 Thread Bulent Celasun
I am about to retire...

I will be having (hopefully) more time to devote to myself.
And myself considers reading / writing / photographing more
productively in the coming years.
Incidentally, I can get a 5x7 Arca Swiss (older type) in very good
condition with a new bellows for an acceptable (not very low) price.
The lens is a 180/5.6 Schneider.
A lens plate for macrophotography for mounting a reversed enlarger
lens may be supplied later.
The rear standard well be equipped with 4x5 adapter (film is a lot
easier to find for this) and probably another one for Fuji GX680. I
happen to have a Fuji GX680 to Hasselblad CFV-39 digital back...

...

I should be grateful indeed if you could share your experiences and
give me some advice on this.
Or, in other words, would you like to push me or stop me?

Bulent


-
http://patoloji.gen.tr
http://celasun.wordpress.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bc_the_path/
http://photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2226822
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/bulentcelasun

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Re: NYTimes: William Eggleston, the Pioneer of Color Photography

2016-10-22 Thread Jostein Øksne
Thanks for posting that, Stan. I remember the exhibition fondly. Never quite 
understood Eggleston before, but the exhibition was an eye-opener. 
Jostein 

Den 20. oktober 2016 18.50.07 CEST, skrev Stan Halpin 
:
>If my memory serves me correctly, during the Great Chicago PDML Meet-up
>And Exhibition of 2010, many of us saw an exhibition of Eggleston's
>work. Link here to a interview with, story about the man...
>
>http://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/17/t-magazine/william-eggleston-photographer-interview-augusten-burroughs.html?smprod=nytcore-ipad=nytcore-ipad-share
>
>A visit with the artist reveals him to be every bit as brilliant,
>confounding and heartbreakingly soulful as the pictures he makes.
>
>
>Sent from my iPad

-- 
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

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Re: NYTimes: William Eggleston, the Pioneer of Color Photography

2016-10-20 Thread ann sanfedele

absolutely... geez.

ann


On 10/20/2016 2:00 PM, Bruce Walker wrote:

Of course you must add "In The Art World" to that title for it not to
sound absurdly hyperbolic.



On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 12:50 PM, Stan Halpin
 wrote:

If my memory serves me correctly, during the Great Chicago PDML Meet-up And 
Exhibition of 2010, many of us saw an exhibition of Eggleston's work. Link here 
to a interview with, story about the man...

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/17/t-magazine/william-eggleston-photographer-interview-augusten-burroughs.html?smprod=nytcore-ipad=nytcore-ipad-share

A visit with the artist reveals him to be every bit as brilliant, confounding 
and heartbreakingly soulful as the pictures he makes.


Sent from my iPad

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Re: NYTimes: William Eggleston, the Pioneer of Color Photography

2016-10-20 Thread ann sanfedele
Thansk for that... is there an exhibit here now? (she muses before 
following the link) I'll be heading for it!


ann


On 10/20/2016 12:50 PM, Stan Halpin wrote:

If my memory serves me correctly, during the Great Chicago PDML Meet-up And 
Exhibition of 2010, many of us saw an exhibition of Eggleston's work. Link here 
to a interview with, story about the man...

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/17/t-magazine/william-eggleston-photographer-interview-augusten-burroughs.html?smprod=nytcore-ipad=nytcore-ipad-share

A visit with the artist reveals him to be every bit as brilliant, confounding 
and heartbreakingly soulful as the pictures he makes.


Sent from my iPad




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Re: NYTimes: William Eggleston, the Pioneer of Color Photography

2016-10-20 Thread Bruce Walker
Of course you must add "In The Art World" to that title for it not to
sound absurdly hyperbolic.



On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 12:50 PM, Stan Halpin
 wrote:
> If my memory serves me correctly, during the Great Chicago PDML Meet-up And 
> Exhibition of 2010, many of us saw an exhibition of Eggleston's work. Link 
> here to a interview with, story about the man...
>
> http://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/17/t-magazine/william-eggleston-photographer-interview-augusten-burroughs.html?smprod=nytcore-ipad=nytcore-ipad-share
>
> A visit with the artist reveals him to be every bit as brilliant, confounding 
> and heartbreakingly soulful as the pictures he makes.
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
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NYTimes: William Eggleston, the Pioneer of Color Photography

2016-10-20 Thread Stan Halpin
If my memory serves me correctly, during the Great Chicago PDML Meet-up And 
Exhibition of 2010, many of us saw an exhibition of Eggleston's work. Link here 
to a interview with, story about the man...

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/17/t-magazine/william-eggleston-photographer-interview-augusten-burroughs.html?smprod=nytcore-ipad=nytcore-ipad-share

A visit with the artist reveals him to be every bit as brilliant, confounding 
and heartbreakingly soulful as the pictures he makes.


Sent from my iPad

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Tiny camera for astro-photography

2016-10-11 Thread Sandy Harris
https://tiny1.backerkit.com/hosted_preorders/backers/5644834

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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-05 Thread Ken Waller

Give me a brake, we all know he does it manual-ly.

Kenneth Waller
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/kennethwaller

- Original Message - 
From: "Godfrey DiGiorgi" <godd...@me.com>

Subject: Re: Car photography hints?



He's so good at it, he can probably do it on auto.

G


On Oct 5, 2016, at 8:41 AM, Gonz <rgonzoma...@gmail.com> wrote:

You really drove the point home there...


On Tue, Oct 4, 2016 at 2:49 PM, Ken Waller <kwal...@peoplepc.com> wrote:

And he never tires of it.

-Original Message-

From: Rick Womer <rickpic...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Car photography hints?

He's the list's big wheel in car photography.



On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:14 PM, Ken Waller wrote:

Have Paul S. come out and shoot the car.


-Original Message-

From: Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Car photography hints?

Yes, use your longest lens from a distance. Shoot on asphalt or 
concrete with a clean background like trees or hills. Position the 
car as far away from the background as possible. Camera height for 
your key shots should be about headlamp level. Shoot 3/4 and 7/8 
front and rear as well as a full profile. Then shoot all except the 
profile from eye level. Finally shoot some 3/4 front and rear from a 
height of about 12 feet with a 50mm lens. Use a polarizer on all 
shots to eliminate reflections. With the low angle shots you will 
want to adjust the polarizer to eliminate reflections in the side of 
the car. With the high angles you may want to dial out the sky 
reflection. If you want to go all out you can shoot with two 
different polarizer settings and composite the results. Shoot the 
interior with your widest lens and a flash with diffuser. If the 
headliner is white or grey, bounce the flash off of it. Use the flash 
and a medium wide to shoot the engine.


Paul via phone


On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen <l...@red4est.com> wrote:

This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have 
some good suggestions:


My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it 
for 40 years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine). 
He does not, however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take 
some for him.  Are there any tips and tricks I should know about to 
avoid mistakes ahead of time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather 
than close up with a wide lens?


The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some 
shots of it before hand so that the color shows more than the 
reflections?


What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash 
to fill so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?


Polarizers?  Critical or not?

Larry



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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-05 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
He's so good at it, he can probably do it on auto.

G

> On Oct 5, 2016, at 8:41 AM, Gonz <rgonzoma...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> You really drove the point home there...
> 
>> On Tue, Oct 4, 2016 at 2:49 PM, Ken Waller <kwal...@peoplepc.com> wrote:
>> 
>> And he never tires of it.
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Rick Womer <rickpic...@gmail.com>
>>> Subject: Re: Car photography hints?
>>> 
>>> He's the list's big wheel in car photography.
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:14 PM, Ken Waller wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Have Paul S. come out and shoot the car.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -Original Message-
>>>>> From: Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@mac.com>
>>>>> Subject: Re: Car photography hints?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Yes, use your longest lens from a distance. Shoot on asphalt or concrete 
>>>>> with a clean background like trees or hills. Position the car as far away 
>>>>> from the background as possible. Camera height for your key shots should 
>>>>> be about headlamp level. Shoot 3/4 and 7/8 front and rear as well as a 
>>>>> full profile. Then shoot all except the profile from eye level. Finally 
>>>>> shoot some 3/4 front and rear from a height of about 12 feet with a 50mm 
>>>>> lens. Use a polarizer on all shots to eliminate reflections. With the low 
>>>>> angle shots you will want to adjust the polarizer to eliminate 
>>>>> reflections in the side of the car. With the high angles you may want to 
>>>>> dial out the sky reflection. If you want to go all out you can shoot with 
>>>>> two different polarizer settings and composite the results. Shoot the 
>>>>> interior with your widest lens and a flash with diffuser. If the 
>>>>> headliner is white or grey, bounce the flash off of it. Use the flash and 
>>>>> a medium wide to shoot the engine.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Paul via phone
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen <l...@red4est.com> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some 
>>>>>> good suggestions:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 
>>>>>> 40 years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does 
>>>>>> not, however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for 
>>>>>> him.  Are there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid 
>>>>>> mistakes ahead of time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than 
>>>>>> close up with a wide lens?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots 
>>>>>> of it before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to 
>>>>>> fill so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Polarizers?  Critical or not?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Larry

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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-05 Thread Gonz
You really drove the point home there...

On Tue, Oct 4, 2016 at 2:49 PM, Ken Waller <kwal...@peoplepc.com> wrote:
>
> And he never tires of it.
>
> -Original Message-
>>From: Rick Womer <rickpic...@gmail.com>
>>Subject: Re: Car photography hints?
>>
>>He's the list's big wheel in car photography.
>>
>>
>>On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:14 PM, Ken Waller wrote:
>>
>>> Have Paul S. come out and shoot the car.
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>>> From: Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@mac.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: Car photography hints?
>>>>
>>>> Yes, use your longest lens from a distance. Shoot on asphalt or concrete 
>>>> with a clean background like trees or hills. Position the car as far away 
>>>> from the background as possible. Camera height for your key shots should 
>>>> be about headlamp level. Shoot 3/4 and 7/8 front and rear as well as a 
>>>> full profile. Then shoot all except the profile from eye level. Finally 
>>>> shoot some 3/4 front and rear from a height of about 12 feet with a 50mm 
>>>> lens. Use a polarizer on all shots to eliminate reflections. With the low 
>>>> angle shots you will want to adjust the polarizer to eliminate reflections 
>>>> in the side of the car. With the high angles you may want to dial out the 
>>>> sky reflection. If you want to go all out you can shoot with two different 
>>>> polarizer settings and composite the results. Shoot the interior with your 
>>>> widest lens and a flash with diffuser. If the headliner is white or grey, 
>>>> bounce the flash off of it. Use the flash and a medium wide to shoot the 
>>>> engine.
>>>>
>>>> Paul via phone
>>>>
>>>>> On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen <l...@red4est.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some 
>>>>> good suggestions:
>>>>>
>>>>> My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 
>>>>> 40 years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does 
>>>>> not, however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for him. 
>>>>>  Are there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid mistakes 
>>>>> ahead of time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than close up with 
>>>>> a wide lens?
>>>>>
>>>>> The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots 
>>>>> of it before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?
>>>>>
>>>>> What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to 
>>>>> fill so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?
>>>>>
>>>>> Polarizers?  Critical or not?
>>>>>
>>>>>  Larry
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc
>
>
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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-04 Thread Ken Waller

And he never tires of it.

-Original Message-
>From: Rick Womer <rickpic...@gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: Car photography hints?
>
>He's the list's big wheel in car photography.
>
>
>On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:14 PM, Ken Waller wrote:
>
>> Have Paul S. come out and shoot the car.
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@mac.com>
>>> Subject: Re: Car photography hints?
>>> 
>>> Yes, use your longest lens from a distance. Shoot on asphalt or concrete 
>>> with a clean background like trees or hills. Position the car as far away 
>>> from the background as possible. Camera height for your key shots should be 
>>> about headlamp level. Shoot 3/4 and 7/8 front and rear as well as a full 
>>> profile. Then shoot all except the profile from eye level. Finally shoot 
>>> some 3/4 front and rear from a height of about 12 feet with a 50mm lens. 
>>> Use a polarizer on all shots to eliminate reflections. With the low angle 
>>> shots you will want to adjust the polarizer to eliminate reflections in the 
>>> side of the car. With the high angles you may want to dial out the sky 
>>> reflection. If you want to go all out you can shoot with two different 
>>> polarizer settings and composite the results. Shoot the interior with your 
>>> widest lens and a flash with diffuser. If the headliner is white or grey, 
>>> bounce the flash off of it. Use the flash and a medium wide to shoot the 
>>> engine.
>>> 
>>> Paul via phone
>>> 
>>>> On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen <l...@red4est.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some 
>>>> good suggestions:
>>>> 
>>>> My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 40 
>>>> years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does not, 
>>>> however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for him.  Are 
>>>> there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid mistakes ahead of 
>>>> time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than close up with a wide 
>>>> lens?
>>>> 
>>>> The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots of 
>>>> it before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?
>>>> 
>>>> What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to 
>>>> fill so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?
>>>> 
>>>> Polarizers?  Critical or not?
>>>> 
>>>>  Larry
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc



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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-04 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
To supplement Paul's notes: 

- Wash and wax the car before shooting.
- Choose dusk or dawn light to shoot in.
- Turn on head and parking lights depending on illumination levels. 

I sometimes like a little bit more interesting or urban background rather than 
just trees or hills. I find that when I have zooms to work with and play with 
framing and such, I almost always see the most pleasing shots made at 75 to 
85mm for most exterior shots, 24 to 28 mm for interior shots, and 50mm for 
engine compartment details.

G

> On Oct 4, 2016, at 10:01 AM, Rick Womer <rickpic...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> He's the list's big wheel in car photography.
> 
> 
>> On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:14 PM, Ken Waller wrote:
>> 
>> Have Paul S. come out and shoot the car.
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@mac.com>
>>> Subject: Re: Car photography hints?
>>> 
>>> Yes, use your longest lens from a distance. Shoot on asphalt or concrete 
>>> with a clean background like trees or hills. Position the car as far away 
>>> from the background as possible. Camera height for your key shots should be 
>>> about headlamp level. Shoot 3/4 and 7/8 front and rear as well as a full 
>>> profile. Then shoot all except the profile from eye level. Finally shoot 
>>> some 3/4 front and rear from a height of about 12 feet with a 50mm lens. 
>>> Use a polarizer on all shots to eliminate reflections. With the low angle 
>>> shots you will want to adjust the polarizer to eliminate reflections in the 
>>> side of the car. With the high angles you may want to dial out the sky 
>>> reflection. If you want to go all out you can shoot with two different 
>>> polarizer settings and composite the results. Shoot the interior with your 
>>> widest lens and a flash with diffuser. If the headliner is white or grey, 
>>> bounce the flash off of it. Use the flash and a medium wide to shoot the 
>>> engine.
>>> 
>>> Paul via phone
>>> 
>>>> On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen <l...@red4est.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some 
>>>> good suggestions:
>>>> 
>>>> My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 40 
>>>> years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does not, 
>>>> however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for him.  Are 
>>>> there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid mistakes ahead of 
>>>> time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than close up with a wide 
>>>> lens?
>>>> 
>>>> The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots of 
>>>> it before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?
>>>> 
>>>> What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to 
>>>> fill so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?
>>>> 
>>>> Polarizers?  Critical or not?
>>>> 
>>>> Larry
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-04 Thread John

Un hunh ... but if he ain't gonna' go out and make those mistakes, how
am I gonna' learn by reading about them? 8-)

On 10/4/2016 12:47 PM, P.J. Alling wrote:

There are three kinds of people, those who can learn by reading, those
who can learn by observation, those who just go ahead and make mistakes.

On 10/4/2016 2:39 AM, Larry Colen wrote:



John wrote:

On 10/3/2016 6:00 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

Thanks a bunch. That should save me from making several mistakes.



How do you ever expect to learn anything if you never make any mistakes?


By letting other people make them for me.


8-)








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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-04 Thread Rick Womer
He's the list's big wheel in car photography.


On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:14 PM, Ken Waller wrote:

> Have Paul S. come out and shoot the car.
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
>> From: Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@mac.com>
>> Subject: Re: Car photography hints?
>> 
>> Yes, use your longest lens from a distance. Shoot on asphalt or concrete 
>> with a clean background like trees or hills. Position the car as far away 
>> from the background as possible. Camera height for your key shots should be 
>> about headlamp level. Shoot 3/4 and 7/8 front and rear as well as a full 
>> profile. Then shoot all except the profile from eye level. Finally shoot 
>> some 3/4 front and rear from a height of about 12 feet with a 50mm lens. Use 
>> a polarizer on all shots to eliminate reflections. With the low angle shots 
>> you will want to adjust the polarizer to eliminate reflections in the side 
>> of the car. With the high angles you may want to dial out the sky 
>> reflection. If you want to go all out you can shoot with two different 
>> polarizer settings and composite the results. Shoot the interior with your 
>> widest lens and a flash with diffuser. If the headliner is white or grey, 
>> bounce the flash off of it. Use the flash and a medium wide to shoot the 
>> engine.
>> 
>> Paul via phone
>> 
>>> On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen <l...@red4est.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some 
>>> good suggestions:
>>> 
>>> My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 40 
>>> years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does not, 
>>> however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for him.  Are 
>>> there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid mistakes ahead of 
>>> time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than close up with a wide lens?
>>> 
>>> The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots of 
>>> it before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?
>>> 
>>> What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to 
>>> fill so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?
>>> 
>>> Polarizers?  Critical or not?
>>> 
>>>  Larry
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-04 Thread P.J. Alling
There are three kinds of people, those who can learn by reading, those 
who can learn by observation, those who just go ahead and make mistakes.


On 10/4/2016 2:39 AM, Larry Colen wrote:



John wrote:

On 10/3/2016 6:00 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

Thanks a bunch. That should save me from making several mistakes.



How do you ever expect to learn anything if you never make any mistakes?


By letting other people make them for me.


8-)






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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-04 Thread Larry Colen



John wrote:

On 10/3/2016 6:00 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

Thanks a bunch. That should save me from making several mistakes.



How do you ever expect to learn anything if you never make any mistakes?


By letting other people make them for me.


8-)



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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-03 Thread Alan C
Perhaps it's time to write a book? Esp. with a long Winter just around the 
corner.


Alan C

-Original Message- 
From: Paul Stenquist

Sent: Monday, October 03, 2016 11:44 PM
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Subject: Re: Car photography hints?

Yes, use your longest lens from a distance. Shoot on asphalt or concrete 
with a clean background like trees or hills. Position the car as far away 
from the background as possible. Camera height for your key shots should be 
about headlamp level. Shoot 3/4 and 7/8 front and rear as well as a full 
profile. Then shoot all except the profile from eye level. Finally shoot 
some 3/4 front and rear from a height of about 12 feet with a 50mm lens. Use 
a polarizer on all shots to eliminate reflections. With the low angle shots 
you will want to adjust the polarizer to eliminate reflections in the side 
of the car. With the high angles you may want to dial out the sky 
reflection. If you want to go all out you can shoot with two different 
polarizer settings and composite the results. Shoot the interior with your 
widest lens and a flash with diffuser. If the headliner is white or grey, 
bounce the flash off of it. Use the flash and a medium wide to shoot the 
engine.


Paul via phone


On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen <l...@red4est.com> wrote:

This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some 
good suggestions:


My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 40 
years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does not, 
however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for him.  Are 
there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid mistakes ahead of 
time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than close up with a wide 
lens?


The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots of 
it before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?


What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to 
fill so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?


Polarizers?  Critical or not?

  Larry

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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-03 Thread John

On 10/3/2016 6:00 PM, Larry Colen wrote:

Thanks a bunch.  That should save me from making several mistakes.



How do you ever expect to learn anything if you never make any mistakes? 
 8-)


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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-03 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
On Mon, Oct 3, 2016 at 6:14 PM, Ken Waller  wrote:

> Have Paul S. come out and shoot the car.


I was thinking the same thing!

Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola
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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-03 Thread Ken Waller
Have Paul S. come out and shoot the car.


-Original Message-
>From: Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@mac.com>
>Subject: Re: Car photography hints?
>
>Yes, use your longest lens from a distance. Shoot on asphalt or concrete with 
>a clean background like trees or hills. Position the car as far away from the 
>background as possible. Camera height for your key shots should be about 
>headlamp level. Shoot 3/4 and 7/8 front and rear as well as a full profile. 
>Then shoot all except the profile from eye level. Finally shoot some 3/4 front 
>and rear from a height of about 12 feet with a 50mm lens. Use a polarizer on 
>all shots to eliminate reflections. With the low angle shots you will want to 
>adjust the polarizer to eliminate reflections in the side of the car. With the 
>high angles you may want to dial out the sky reflection. If you want to go all 
>out you can shoot with two different polarizer settings and composite the 
>results. Shoot the interior with your widest lens and a flash with diffuser. 
>If the headliner is white or grey, bounce the flash off of it. Use the flash 
>and a medium wide to shoot the engine.
>
>Paul via phone
>
>> On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen <l...@red4est.com> wrote:
>> 
>> This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some good 
>> suggestions:
>> 
>> My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 40 
>> years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does not, 
>> however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for him.  Are 
>> there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid mistakes ahead of 
>> time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than close up with a wide lens?
>> 
>> The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots of 
>> it before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?
>> 
>> What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to fill 
>> so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?
>> 
>> Polarizers?  Critical or not?
>> 
>>   Larry
>> 
>> -- 
>> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc



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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-03 Thread Paul Stenquist
Shoot the 3/4 and 7/8 shots with a big ap. I usually shoot at 5.6, 6.7 and 8 
with the 450 and use the 5.6 if all appears to be in focus. (I focus on the 
closest point, the headlight for example.

Paul via phone

> On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:45 PM, Paul Stenquist  wrote:
> 
> Buff it out before shooting. A full car will just look dull.
> 
> Paul via phone
> 
>> On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen  wrote:
>> 
>> This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some good 
>> suggestions:
>> 
>> My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 40 
>> years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does not, 
>> however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for him.  Are 
>> there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid mistakes ahead of 
>> time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than close up with a wide lens?
>> 
>> The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots of 
>> it before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?
>> 
>> What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to fill 
>> so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?
>> 
>> Polarizers?  Critical or not?
>> 
>>  Larry
>> 
>> -- 
>> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc
>> 
>> 
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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-03 Thread Larry Colen

Thanks a bunch.  That should save me from making several mistakes.


Paul Stenquist wrote:

Yes, use your longest lens from a distance. Shoot on asphalt or concrete with a 
clean background like trees or hills. Position the car as far away from the 
background as possible. Camera height for your key shots should be about 
headlamp level. Shoot 3/4 and 7/8 front and rear as well as a full profile. 
Then shoot all except the profile from eye level. Finally shoot some 3/4 front 
and rear from a height of about 12 feet with a 50mm lens. Use a polarizer on 
all shots to eliminate reflections. With the low angle shots you will want to 
adjust the polarizer to eliminate reflections in the side of the car. With the 
high angles you may want to dial out the sky reflection. If you want to go all 
out you can shoot with two different polarizer settings and composite the 
results. Shoot the interior with your widest lens and a flash with diffuser. If 
the headliner is white or grey, bounce the flash off of it. Use the flash and a 
medium wide to shoot the engine.

Paul via phone


On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen  wrote:

This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some good 
suggestions:

My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 40 
years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does not, 
however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for him.  Are there 
any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid mistakes ahead of time?  I.e. 
long lens from a distance rather than close up with a wide lens?

The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots of it 
before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?

What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to fill so 
that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?

Polarizers?  Critical or not?

   Larry

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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-03 Thread Paul Stenquist
Buff it out before shooting. A full car will just look dull.

Paul via phone

> On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen  wrote:
> 
> This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some good 
> suggestions:
> 
> My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 40 
> years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does not, 
> however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for him.  Are 
> there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid mistakes ahead of 
> time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than close up with a wide lens?
> 
> The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots of it 
> before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?
> 
> What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to fill 
> so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?
> 
> Polarizers?  Critical or not?
> 
>   Larry
> 
> -- 
> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc
> 
> 
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Re: Car photography hints?

2016-10-03 Thread Paul Stenquist
Yes, use your longest lens from a distance. Shoot on asphalt or concrete with a 
clean background like trees or hills. Position the car as far away from the 
background as possible. Camera height for your key shots should be about 
headlamp level. Shoot 3/4 and 7/8 front and rear as well as a full profile. 
Then shoot all except the profile from eye level. Finally shoot some 3/4 front 
and rear from a height of about 12 feet with a 50mm lens. Use a polarizer on 
all shots to eliminate reflections. With the low angle shots you will want to 
adjust the polarizer to eliminate reflections in the side of the car. With the 
high angles you may want to dial out the sky reflection. If you want to go all 
out you can shoot with two different polarizer settings and composite the 
results. Shoot the interior with your widest lens and a flash with diffuser. If 
the headliner is white or grey, bounce the flash off of it. Use the flash and a 
medium wide to shoot the engine.

Paul via phone

> On Oct 3, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Larry Colen  wrote:
> 
> This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some good 
> suggestions:
> 
> My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 40 
> years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does not, 
> however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for him.  Are 
> there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid mistakes ahead of 
> time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than close up with a wide lens?
> 
> The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots of it 
> before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?
> 
> What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to fill 
> so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?
> 
> Polarizers?  Critical or not?
> 
>   Larry
> 
> -- 
> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc
> 
> 
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Car photography hints?

2016-10-03 Thread Larry Colen
This question is mostly for Paul, but some other people might have some 
good suggestions:


My neighbor is trying to sell his 1970 Challenger R/T.  He's had it for 
40 years and it's generally in pretty good shape (340 engine).  He does 
not, however, have good photos of it.  I've offered to take some for 
him.  Are there any tips and tricks I should know about to avoid 
mistakes ahead of time?  I.e. long lens from a distance rather than 
close up with a wide lens?


The car needs to be buffed out, would I be better of getting some shots 
of it before hand so that the color shows more than the reflections?


What about shooting the interior?   Natural light?  Maybe some flash to 
fill so that the view outside the windows isn't blown out?


Polarizers?  Critical or not?

   Larry

--
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Re: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football

2016-09-21 Thread Paul Stenquist
Because I was shooting TA mode and had max ISO set at 6400. Needed a 1000th 
shutter speed to freeze action, so wide open I was almost two stops under. 
Could have changed ISO to 20,000 or so but experience tells me the result will 
be the same if I just push in conversion. Plus I slowed down the shutter a 
bunch and got below 6400 ISO for a few shots of static subjects.

Paul via phone

> On Sep 21, 2016, at 7:06 AM, Rick Womer <rickpic...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Paul, why the underexposure and 2-stop push?
> 
> Rick
> 
> On Tuesday, September 20, 2016, Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
> 
>> Shot some kids football again. Great fun.
>> 
>> I’m somewhat mystified by those who say the K-1 is ill suited for sports
>> photography. In continuous autofocus mode it pretty much nails every shot.
>> And even under somewhat dim stadium lights with night closing in, ti’s
>> possible to get decent results at ISO 6400 followed by a two stop push — an
>> effective iso of 25,500.
>> Just beginning to process these, but I had to post a couple. Here’s the
>> shot at 25,800, K-1 DFA 150-450, f 5.6, 1/1000th. TA mode with ISO limit
>> set at 6400, then two stop push in rendering:
>> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287583=lg
>> 
>> This one was shot before it got dark, but the light was getting dim. Again
>> K-1 with DFA 150-450, F8, 1/1250th, ISO 6400, minimal exposure adjustment
>> in rendering.
>> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287579=lg
>> 
>> No problem with autofocus all night. Loving that camera.
>> 
>> Will post a GESO once I’ve rendered more of these.
>> Paul
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Re: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football

2016-09-21 Thread Rick Womer
Paul, why the underexposure and 2-stop push?

Rick

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016, Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@comcast.net>
wrote:

> Shot some kids football again. Great fun.
>
> I’m somewhat mystified by those who say the K-1 is ill suited for sports
> photography. In continuous autofocus mode it pretty much nails every shot.
> And even under somewhat dim stadium lights with night closing in, ti’s
> possible to get decent results at ISO 6400 followed by a two stop push — an
> effective iso of 25,500.
> Just beginning to process these, but I had to post a couple. Here’s the
> shot at 25,800, K-1 DFA 150-450, f 5.6, 1/1000th. TA mode with ISO limit
> set at 6400, then two stop push in rendering:
> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287583=lg
>
> This one was shot before it got dark, but the light was getting dim. Again
> K-1 with DFA 150-450, F8, 1/1250th, ISO 6400, minimal exposure adjustment
> in rendering.
> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287579=lg
>
> No problem with autofocus all night. Loving that camera.
>
> Will post a GESO once I’ve rendered more of these.
> Paul
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Re: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football

2016-09-21 Thread David J Brooks
On Tue, Sep 20, 2016 at 10:21 PM, Paul Stenquist
<pnstenqu...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Shot some kids football again. Great fun.
>
> I’m somewhat mystified by those who say the K-1 is ill suited for sports 
> photography. In continuous autofocus mode it pretty much nails every shot. 
> And even under somewhat dim stadium lights with night closing in, ti’s 
> possible to get decent results at ISO 6400 followed by a two stop push — an 
> effective iso of 25,500.

I don't think the Pentax cameras are bad at sports photography but
possibly thelens choices come into play. I don't have anything with an
SDM type focus motor other than my Sigma 17-70 which focuses quite
fast, my consumer lenses, the DA F 50-200 and 55-300 being screw focus
tend to focus slower and hunt, me thinks that could be the concern.??

Nice shots BTW

Dave
> Just beginning to process these, but I had to post a couple. Here’s the shot 
> at 25,800, K-1 DFA 150-450, f 5.6, 1/1000th. TA mode with ISO limit set at 
> 6400, then two stop push in rendering:
> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287583=lg
>
> This one was shot before it got dark, but the light was getting dim. Again 
> K-1 with DFA 150-450, F8, 1/1250th, ISO 6400, minimal exposure adjustment in 
> rendering.
> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287579=lg
>
> No problem with autofocus all night. Loving that camera.
>
> Will post a GESO once I’ve rendered more of these.
> Paul
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Re: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football

2016-09-21 Thread Paul Stenquist
Thanks Cotty. Having some fun with the kids.

Paul via phone

> On Sep 21, 2016, at 6:03 AM, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
> 
> On 20/9/16, Paul Stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:
> 
> 
> 
> Great shot!
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
>  Cotty
> 
> 
> ___/\__Broadcast, Corporate,
> ||  (O)  |Web Video Production
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> _
> 
> 
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Re: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football

2016-09-21 Thread Steve Cottrell
On 20/9/16, Paul Stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed:



Great shot!


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Re: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football

2016-09-20 Thread Stanley Halpin

> On Sep 20, 2016, at 11:51 PM, Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@mac.com> wrote:
> 
> True, Jack. It's not ideal as a sports camera, but it's better than one would 
> expect based on the reviews. I shot for a while at max frames per second but 
> then went to single frame. The burst rate and buffer are both limiting when 
> machine gunning. But I often get better results by watching carefully and 
> shooting single shots.
> 
> Paul via phone

I’ve been doing some more filtering and initial processing of our Alaska images 
this evening. One that caught my eye was with the K-1, HD DFA 70-200 at 1/1000, 
f/8 ISO800 from a small boat while out looking for whales. Misty cloudy day. 
One image I really liked was a Stellar Sea Lion swimming parallel to the moving 
boat. A little cropping, a little bump in Clarity and a little noise reduction 
and I can see the water drops falling from his whiskers… I did miss focus on a 
few eagles flying overhead but otherwise have not been disappointed with the 
AF, exposure, etc etc. I also try to avoid filling the buffer because I hate 
that feeling when the decisive moment comes and the camera is temporarily 
unavailable while it clears the buffer…

stan

> 
>> On Sep 20, 2016, at 11:34 PM, Jack Davis <jdavi...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> That's a nice image, Paul. I suppose a faster burst rate would be sought 
>> for those looking for a dedicated sports camera.
>> 
>> J
>> 
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Paul Stenquist" <pnstenqu...@comcast.net>
>> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" <pdml@pdml.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2016 7:21:38 PM
>> Subject: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football
>> 
>> Shot some kids football again. Great fun.
>> 
>> I’m somewhat mystified by those who say the K-1 is ill suited for sports 
>> photography. In continuous autofocus mode it pretty much nails every shot. 
>> And even under somewhat dim stadium lights with night closing in, ti’s 
>> possible to get decent results at ISO 6400 followed by a two stop push — an 
>> effective iso of 25,500. 
>> Just beginning to process these, but I had to post a couple. Here’s the shot 
>> at 25,800, K-1 DFA 150-450, f 5.6, 1/1000th. TA mode with ISO limit set at 
>> 6400, then two stop push in rendering:
>> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287583=lg
>> 
>> This one was shot before it got dark, but the light was getting dim. Again 
>> K-1 with DFA 150-450, F8, 1/1250th, ISO 6400, minimal exposure adjustment in 
>> rendering.
>> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287579=lg
>> 
>> No problem with autofocus all night. Loving that camera.
>> 
>> Will post a GESO once I’ve rendered more of these.
>> Paul
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Re: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football

2016-09-20 Thread Paul Stenquist
True, Jack. It's not ideal as a sports camera, but it's better than one would 
expect based on the reviews. I shot for a while at max frames per second but 
then went to single frame. The burst rate and buffer are both limiting when 
machine gunning. But I often get better results by watching carefully and 
shooting single shots.

Paul via phone

> On Sep 20, 2016, at 11:34 PM, Jack Davis <jdavi...@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> That's a nice image, Paul. I suppose a faster burst rate would be sought 
> for those looking for a dedicated sports camera.
> 
> J
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "Paul Stenquist" <pnstenqu...@comcast.net>
> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" <pdml@pdml.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2016 7:21:38 PM
> Subject: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football
> 
> Shot some kids football again. Great fun.
> 
> I’m somewhat mystified by those who say the K-1 is ill suited for sports 
> photography. In continuous autofocus mode it pretty much nails every shot. 
> And even under somewhat dim stadium lights with night closing in, ti’s 
> possible to get decent results at ISO 6400 followed by a two stop push — an 
> effective iso of 25,500. 
> Just beginning to process these, but I had to post a couple. Here’s the shot 
> at 25,800, K-1 DFA 150-450, f 5.6, 1/1000th. TA mode with ISO limit set at 
> 6400, then two stop push in rendering:
> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287583=lg
> 
> This one was shot before it got dark, but the light was getting dim. Again 
> K-1 with DFA 150-450, F8, 1/1250th, ISO 6400, minimal exposure adjustment in 
> rendering.
> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287579=lg
> 
> No problem with autofocus all night. Loving that camera.
> 
> Will post a GESO once I’ve rendered more of these.
> Paul
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Re: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football

2016-09-20 Thread Jack Davis

That's a nice image, Paul. I suppose a faster burst rate would be sought 
for those looking for a dedicated sports camera.

J

- Original Message -
From: "Paul Stenquist" <pnstenqu...@comcast.net>
To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" <pdml@pdml.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2016 7:21:38 PM
Subject: K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football

Shot some kids football again. Great fun.

I’m somewhat mystified by those who say the K-1 is ill suited for sports 
photography. In continuous autofocus mode it pretty much nails every shot. And 
even under somewhat dim stadium lights with night closing in, ti’s possible to 
get decent results at ISO 6400 followed by a two stop push — an effective iso 
of 25,500. 
Just beginning to process these, but I had to post a couple. Here’s the shot at 
25,800, K-1 DFA 150-450, f 5.6, 1/1000th. TA mode with ISO limit set at 6400, 
then two stop push in rendering:
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287583=lg

This one was shot before it got dark, but the light was getting dim. Again K-1 
with DFA 150-450, F8, 1/1250th, ISO 6400, minimal exposure adjustment in 
rendering.
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287579=lg

No problem with autofocus all night. Loving that camera.

Will post a GESO once I’ve rendered more of these.
Paul
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K-1 Sports Photography and Kids Football

2016-09-20 Thread Paul Stenquist
Shot some kids football again. Great fun.

I’m somewhat mystified by those who say the K-1 is ill suited for sports 
photography. In continuous autofocus mode it pretty much nails every shot. And 
even under somewhat dim stadium lights with night closing in, ti’s possible to 
get decent results at ISO 6400 followed by a two stop push — an effective iso 
of 25,500. 
Just beginning to process these, but I had to post a couple. Here’s the shot at 
25,800, K-1 DFA 150-450, f 5.6, 1/1000th. TA mode with ISO limit set at 6400, 
then two stop push in rendering:
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287583=lg

This one was shot before it got dark, but the light was getting dim. Again K-1 
with DFA 150-450, F8, 1/1250th, ISO 6400, minimal exposure adjustment in 
rendering.
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18287579=lg

No problem with autofocus all night. Loving that camera.

Will post a GESO once I’ve rendered more of these.
Paul
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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-04 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
2002, so not quite 15 years.

On Sun, Sep 4, 2016 at 7:10 AM, Jostein Øksne  wrote:

> :-)
> I remember that too, Dan. Must be like fifteen years ago, I think.
> Jostein
>



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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-04 Thread Jostein
I'd be willing to place money on him bringing his scope to an 
"eco-tourism" spot where they feed carnivores for the benefit of paying 
photographers. There are several such venues in Northern Finland, which 
is within driving distance from where he lives.


Jostein

Den 04.09.2016 17.52, skrev P.J. Alling:

I'm not sure controlled is the proper word.  That looks like a composite
image to me at least.

On 9/2/2016 5:19 PM, Jostein wrote:

You mean this?
http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_14033099.html

I'm pretty sure that's shot, as they say, under controlled conditions.
As a commentary to Norwegian predator population management.

Jostein

Den 02.09.2016 22.47, skrev Steve Cottrell:

On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:


No Pentax content. Some of you may find the images of interest though.
http://audunrikardsen.com/gallery.html



Wow, quite an impressive gallery.

My only regret is seeing the hunting - but alas I eat fish so what's the
difference between seal and fish. I guess they have sadder eyes ;-)

It's life.








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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-04 Thread P.J. Alling
I'm not sure controlled is the proper word.  That looks like a composite 
image to me at least.


On 9/2/2016 5:19 PM, Jostein wrote:

You mean this?
http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_14033099.html

I'm pretty sure that's shot, as they say, under controlled conditions. 
As a commentary to Norwegian predator population management.


Jostein

Den 02.09.2016 22.47, skrev Steve Cottrell:

On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:


No Pentax content. Some of you may find the images of interest though.
http://audunrikardsen.com/gallery.html



Wow, quite an impressive gallery.

My only regret is seeing the hunting - but alas I eat fish so what's the
difference between seal and fish. I guess they have sadder eyes ;-)

It's life.






--
I don't want to achieve immortality through my work; I want to achieve 
immortality through not dying.
-- Woody Allen


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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-04 Thread Jostein Øksne
The guy has won the BBC nature photograper of the year before, and is nominated 
again. I've met him, and he's a complete Duracell rabbit... :-) 
Jostein 

Den 2. september 2016 22.51.33 CEST, skrev Gonz :
>and this...
>
>http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_12645345.html
>
>
>On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 3:47 PM, Steve Cottrell 
>wrote:
>> On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:
>>
>>>No Pentax content. Some of you may find the images of interest
>though.
>>>http://audunrikardsen.com/gallery.html
>>
>>
>> Wow, quite an impressive gallery.
>>
>> My only regret is seeing the hunting - but alas I eat fish so what's
>the
>> difference between seal and fish. I guess they have sadder eyes ;-)
>>
>> It's life.
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>   Cotty
>>
>>
>> ___/\__Broadcast, Corporate,
>> ||  (O)  |Web Video Production
>> --
>> _
>>
>>
>>
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>and follow the directions.

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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-04 Thread Jostein Øksne
:-) 
I remember that too, Dan. Must be like fifteen years ago, I think.
Jostein 

Den 3. september 2016 15.07.45 CEST, skrev "Daniel J. Matyola" 
:
>Jostein, I fondly remember our discussion about American and Norwegian
>attitudes on whales.  
>
>
>Dan Matyola
>http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola
>
>On Sat, Sep 3, 2016 at 7:29 AM, Jostein Øksne  wrote:
>
>> Indeed.
>> You may also remember the outbreaks of canine and/or phocine
>distemper
>> among seals in  the North Sea since about 1990. Culling the
>populations is
>> one way to keep the rest of them healthy.
>> Jostein
>>
>> Den 3. september 2016 09.33.37 CEST, skrev Steve Cottrell <
>> co...@seeingeye.tv>:
>> >On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:
>> >
>> >>You mean this?
>> >>http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_14033099.html
>> >
>> >Was thinking this one
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >It's okay I understand the concept of taking food...
>>
>> --
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>> follow the directions.
>>

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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-03 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
Jostein, I fondly remember our discussion about American and Norwegian
attitudes on whales.  


Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola

On Sat, Sep 3, 2016 at 7:29 AM, Jostein Øksne  wrote:

> Indeed.
> You may also remember the outbreaks of canine and/or phocine distemper
> among seals in  the North Sea since about 1990. Culling the populations is
> one way to keep the rest of them healthy.
> Jostein
>
> Den 3. september 2016 09.33.37 CEST, skrev Steve Cottrell <
> co...@seeingeye.tv>:
> >On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:
> >
> >>You mean this?
> >>http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_14033099.html
> >
> >Was thinking this one
> >
> >
> >
> >It's okay I understand the concept of taking food...
>
> --
> Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
>
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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-03 Thread Jostein Øksne
Indeed. 
You may also remember the outbreaks of canine and/or phocine distemper among 
seals in  the North Sea since about 1990. Culling the populations is one way to 
keep the rest of them healthy.
Jostein 

Den 3. september 2016 09.33.37 CEST, skrev Steve Cottrell :
>On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:
>
>>You mean this?
>>http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_14033099.html
>
>Was thinking this one
>
>
>
>It's okay I understand the concept of taking food...

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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-03 Thread Steve Cottrell
On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:

>You mean this?
>http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_14033099.html

Was thinking this one



It's okay I understand the concept of taking food...

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  Cotty


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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-02 Thread Jostein

This one, btw, is about porpoise hunting in Greenland.
http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_9258573.html

I'm not very principally against whale hunting, or supporting it for 
that matter, but cured minke whale certainly is a delicacy... :-)


Jostein

Den 02.09.2016 22.47, skrev Steve Cottrell:

On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:


No Pentax content. Some of you may find the images of interest though.
http://audunrikardsen.com/gallery.html



Wow, quite an impressive gallery.

My only regret is seeing the hunting - but alas I eat fish so what's the
difference between seal and fish. I guess they have sadder eyes ;-)

It's life.



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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-02 Thread Jostein

You mean this?
http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_14033099.html

I'm pretty sure that's shot, as they say, under controlled conditions. 
As a commentary to Norwegian predator population management.


Jostein

Den 02.09.2016 22.47, skrev Steve Cottrell:

On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:


No Pentax content. Some of you may find the images of interest though.
http://audunrikardsen.com/gallery.html



Wow, quite an impressive gallery.

My only regret is seeing the hunting - but alas I eat fish so what's the
difference between seal and fish. I guess they have sadder eyes ;-)

It's life.



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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-02 Thread Gonz
and this...

http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_12645345.html


On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 3:47 PM, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
> On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:
>
>>No Pentax content. Some of you may find the images of interest though.
>>http://audunrikardsen.com/gallery.html
>
>
> Wow, quite an impressive gallery.
>
> My only regret is seeing the hunting - but alas I eat fish so what's the
> difference between seal and fish. I guess they have sadder eyes ;-)
>
> It's life.
>
> --
>
>
> Cheers,
>   Cotty
>
>
> ___/\__Broadcast, Corporate,
> ||  (O)  |Web Video Production
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> _
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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-02 Thread Gonz
http://audunrikardsen.com/photo_13316109.html

nuff said...


On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Gonz  wrote:
> Geesh.  I'm selling all my camera gear.
>
> On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 1:52 PM, Jostein  wrote:
>> No Pentax content. Some of you may find the images of interest though.
>> http://audunrikardsen.com/gallery.html
>>
>> Jostein
>>
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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-02 Thread Steve Cottrell
On 2/9/16, Jostein, discombobulated, unleashed:

>No Pentax content. Some of you may find the images of interest though.
>http://audunrikardsen.com/gallery.html


Wow, quite an impressive gallery.

My only regret is seeing the hunting - but alas I eat fish so what's the
difference between seal and fish. I guess they have sadder eyes ;-)

It's life.

-- 


Cheers,
  Cotty


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||  (O)  |Web Video Production
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_



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Re: OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-02 Thread Gonz
Geesh.  I'm selling all my camera gear.

On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 1:52 PM, Jostein  wrote:
> No Pentax content. Some of you may find the images of interest though.
> http://audunrikardsen.com/gallery.html
>
> Jostein
>
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OT - Nature photography at a whole different level

2016-09-02 Thread Jostein

No Pentax content. Some of you may find the images of interest though.
http://audunrikardsen.com/gallery.html

Jostein

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Re: Rain photography questions

2016-08-17 Thread David J Brooks
what was the guy at GFM 10 years ago, Tom Braswell??? he did nothing
but rain photos. Tripod and towels.

Dave

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 9:09 PM, Rick Womer  wrote:
> It's been a damp couple of weeks here in New Hampshire, and I've been
> trying (and failing) to take some good rain pix.
>
> This afternoon it was pouring outside, so I put on my
> weather-resistant jacket and hat, and took my weather-resistant K-5
> (with my non-WR 50-200, and a chamois) out to shoot. I chose a
> subject, and stepped up through apertures and shutter speeds; then
> came inside to dry off and see what I had.
>
> The answer was, "not much." This was the best of the bunch (1/125,
> f/8, ISO 3200):
>
> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18275519=lg
>
> So, how does one get those streaking raindrops, and have the splashes
> when they land look like something?
>
> Rick
>
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Re: Rain photography questions

2016-08-17 Thread John

On 8/16/2016 9:09 PM, Rick Womer wrote:

It's been a damp couple of weeks here in New Hampshire, and I've
been trying (and failing) to take some good rain pix.

This afternoon it was pouring outside, so I put on my
weather-resistant jacket and hat, and took my weather-resistant K-5
(with my non-WR 50-200, and a chamois) out to shoot. I chose a
subject, and stepped up through apertures and shutter speeds; then
came inside to dry off and see what I had.

The answer was, "not much." This was the best of the bunch (1/125,
f/8, ISO 3200):

http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18275519=lg

So, how does one get those streaking raindrops, and have the
splashes when they land look like something?

Rick



Drag the shutter & use a strobe set for rear curtain/trailing curtain sync.

If the flash fires when the shutter opens it looks like the rain drops
are falling up. You want it to fire just before the shutter closes.

It helps if it's raining really hard.

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Re: Rain photography questions

2016-08-17 Thread Eric Featherstone
For Paul's URL, add the word photo after the word photo?
i.e. http://photo.net/photodb/photo?_id=18061844
becomes http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18061844

Eric.

On 17 August 2016 at 03:07, ann sanfedele  wrote:
> I get that error too.. can't see Paul's photo
>
> I looked at my "rainy day blues" shot and saw I had shot that at ISO 3200,
> f5.6 and 1/250th... yet I got streaks..
>
> Must be because of how hard and fast the hard rain was fallingwhen I took
> mine, given the similarity of your settings.
>
> https://annsan.smugmug.com/On-the-Road-or-On-Foot/2015-and-all-that/i-NGQhsM6/A
>
> ann
>
>
>
> On 8/16/2016 9:37 PM, Rick Womer wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, Paul. I was at ISO 3200 and 1/125 at f/8, which means I'd need
>> 1/15 at f/22. Do you always use a tripod?
>>
>> Also, I get  "Request error: "photo_id" required but not supplied"
>> when I click on the link.
>>
>> Rick
>> http://photo.net/photos/RickW
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Paul Stenquist 
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Shoot rain at f22. The depth of field will yield some decent results.
>>> http://m.photo.net/photodb/photo?_id=18061844
>>> Paul via phone
>>>
 On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:09 PM, Rick Womer  wrote:

 It's been a damp couple of weeks here in New Hampshire, and I've been
 trying (and failing) to take some good rain pix.

 This afternoon it was pouring outside, so I put on my
 weather-resistant jacket and hat, and took my weather-resistant K-5
 (with my non-WR 50-200, and a chamois) out to shoot. I chose a
 subject, and stepped up through apertures and shutter speeds; then
 came inside to dry off and see what I had.

 The answer was, "not much." This was the best of the bunch (1/125,
 f/8, ISO 3200):

 http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18275519=lg

 So, how does one get those streaking raindrops, and have the splashes
 when they land look like something?

 Rick

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 follow the directions.
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Re: Rain photography questions

2016-08-17 Thread mike wilson
> On 17 August 2016 at 02:09 Rick Womer  wrote:
> So, how does one get those streaking raindrops, and have the splashes
> when they land look like something?

Ideally, you need backlit rain against a dark background.  Either of those
parameters will work alone if other variables suit.

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Re: Rain photography questions

2016-08-16 Thread ann sanfedele

I get that error too.. can't see Paul's photo

I looked at my "rainy day blues" shot and saw I had shot that at ISO 
3200, f5.6 and 1/250th... yet I got streaks..


Must be because of how hard and fast the hard rain was fallingwhen I 
took mine, given the similarity of your settings.


https://annsan.smugmug.com/On-the-Road-or-On-Foot/2015-and-all-that/i-NGQhsM6/A

ann


On 8/16/2016 9:37 PM, Rick Womer wrote:

Thanks, Paul. I was at ISO 3200 and 1/125 at f/8, which means I'd need
1/15 at f/22. Do you always use a tripod?

Also, I get  "Request error: "photo_id" required but not supplied"
when I click on the link.

Rick
http://photo.net/photos/RickW


On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Paul Stenquist  wrote:

Shoot rain at f22. The depth of field will yield some decent results.
http://m.photo.net/photodb/photo?_id=18061844
Paul via phone


On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:09 PM, Rick Womer  wrote:

It's been a damp couple of weeks here in New Hampshire, and I've been
trying (and failing) to take some good rain pix.

This afternoon it was pouring outside, so I put on my
weather-resistant jacket and hat, and took my weather-resistant K-5
(with my non-WR 50-200, and a chamois) out to shoot. I chose a
subject, and stepped up through apertures and shutter speeds; then
came inside to dry off and see what I had.

The answer was, "not much." This was the best of the bunch (1/125,
f/8, ISO 3200):

http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18275519=lg

So, how does one get those streaking raindrops, and have the splashes
when they land look like something?

Rick

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Re: Rain photography questions

2016-08-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
For the kind of photo you posted, Rick, I'd want to use a tripod anyway. You 
need a small lens opening to help image the rain streaks, and your subject 
matter is a still life. Perfect match with a tripod.

When I'm in a full photographic mode, I *always* have a tripod in the trunk of 
my car "just in case." It's shocking how often I use it when I do so. 

G

> On Aug 16, 2016, at 6:37 PM, Rick Womer  wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Paul. I was at ISO 3200 and 1/125 at f/8, which means I'd need
> 1/15 at f/22. Do you always use a tripod?

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Re: Rain photography questions

2016-08-16 Thread Paul Stenquist
No. 1/15th is hand hold acceptable with shake reduction and a lens of dsy 35mm 
or wider.

Paul via phone

> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:37 PM, Rick Womer  wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Paul. I was at ISO 3200 and 1/125 at f/8, which means I'd need
> 1/15 at f/22. Do you always use a tripod?
> 
> Also, I get  "Request error: "photo_id" required but not supplied"
> when I click on the link.
> 
> Rick
> http://photo.net/photos/RickW
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Paul Stenquist  wrote:
>> Shoot rain at f22. The depth of field will yield some decent results.
>> http://m.photo.net/photodb/photo?_id=18061844
>> Paul via phone
>> 
>>> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:09 PM, Rick Womer  wrote:
>>> 
>>> It's been a damp couple of weeks here in New Hampshire, and I've been
>>> trying (and failing) to take some good rain pix.
>>> 
>>> This afternoon it was pouring outside, so I put on my
>>> weather-resistant jacket and hat, and took my weather-resistant K-5
>>> (with my non-WR 50-200, and a chamois) out to shoot. I chose a
>>> subject, and stepped up through apertures and shutter speeds; then
>>> came inside to dry off and see what I had.
>>> 
>>> The answer was, "not much." This was the best of the bunch (1/125,
>>> f/8, ISO 3200):
>>> 
>>> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18275519=lg
>>> 
>>> So, how does one get those streaking raindrops, and have the splashes
>>> when they land look like something?
>>> 
>>> Rick
>>> 
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Re: Rain photography questions

2016-08-16 Thread Rick Womer
Thanks, Paul. I was at ISO 3200 and 1/125 at f/8, which means I'd need
1/15 at f/22. Do you always use a tripod?

Also, I get  "Request error: "photo_id" required but not supplied"
when I click on the link.

Rick
http://photo.net/photos/RickW


On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 9:24 PM, Paul Stenquist  wrote:
> Shoot rain at f22. The depth of field will yield some decent results.
> http://m.photo.net/photodb/photo?_id=18061844
> Paul via phone
>
>> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:09 PM, Rick Womer  wrote:
>>
>> It's been a damp couple of weeks here in New Hampshire, and I've been
>> trying (and failing) to take some good rain pix.
>>
>> This afternoon it was pouring outside, so I put on my
>> weather-resistant jacket and hat, and took my weather-resistant K-5
>> (with my non-WR 50-200, and a chamois) out to shoot. I chose a
>> subject, and stepped up through apertures and shutter speeds; then
>> came inside to dry off and see what I had.
>>
>> The answer was, "not much." This was the best of the bunch (1/125,
>> f/8, ISO 3200):
>>
>> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18275519=lg
>>
>> So, how does one get those streaking raindrops, and have the splashes
>> when they land look like something?
>>
>> Rick
>>
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Re: Rain photography questions

2016-08-16 Thread Paul Stenquist
Shoot rain at f22. The depth of field will yield some decent results.
http://m.photo.net/photodb/photo?_id=18061844
Paul via phone

> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:09 PM, Rick Womer  wrote:
> 
> It's been a damp couple of weeks here in New Hampshire, and I've been
> trying (and failing) to take some good rain pix.
> 
> This afternoon it was pouring outside, so I put on my
> weather-resistant jacket and hat, and took my weather-resistant K-5
> (with my non-WR 50-200, and a chamois) out to shoot. I chose a
> subject, and stepped up through apertures and shutter speeds; then
> came inside to dry off and see what I had.
> 
> The answer was, "not much." This was the best of the bunch (1/125,
> f/8, ISO 3200):
> 
> http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18275519=lg
> 
> So, how does one get those streaking raindrops, and have the splashes
> when they land look like something?
> 
> Rick
> 
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Rain photography questions

2016-08-16 Thread Rick Womer
It's been a damp couple of weeks here in New Hampshire, and I've been
trying (and failing) to take some good rain pix.

This afternoon it was pouring outside, so I put on my
weather-resistant jacket and hat, and took my weather-resistant K-5
(with my non-WR 50-200, and a chamois) out to shoot. I chose a
subject, and stepped up through apertures and shutter speeds; then
came inside to dry off and see what I had.

The answer was, "not much." This was the best of the bunch (1/125,
f/8, ISO 3200):

http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=18275519=lg

So, how does one get those streaking raindrops, and have the splashes
when they land look like something?

Rick

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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-09 Thread Gonz
A camera that will allow you to do manual everything: manual focus, manual
aperture (mechanically/dial), manual shutter speed, manual ISO.  Raw would
be good.  Basically a digital K1000.  My daughter learned this way and now
this is the only way she shoots and she has excellent instincts for light
and exposure.  The biggest issue is that unless you have a full-frame, the
viewfinder is probably going to suck.  This makes focus pretty tough in
many situations.

I think the K100D is pretty basic and probably has all these
characteristics.  And its cheap.  There might be a newer version of this.



On Mon, Aug 8, 2016 at 11:17 PM, Larry Colen <l...@red4est.com> wrote:

>
>
> Mark Roberts wrote:
>
>> What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
>> I'm thinking:
>> Interchangeable lenses
>> Manual Exposure&  focus capable
>> Raw format
>>
>> Anything else?
>>
>
> I've been thinking about this, and would be inclined to go at it from a
> slightly different angle. I'd break the course up into units, and would
> list the equipment needed for each unit.
>
> Composition: A camera.
>
> Digital exposure: A camera that can create histograms, with full manual
> control over exposure
>
> Selecting focal length: lenses, or cameras capable of a specific range of
> Angle of views. (35mm equiv  28 or wider 40-60, 85 or longer)
>
> Digital processing:  A camera capable of shooting raw, or a film camera
> and a scanner.
>
> Studio: Manual exposure, histogram or strobe meter(with film), ability to
> trigger strobes (pc jack, hot shoe/wireless trigger, manual strobe with IR
> filter ...)
>
> macro photography: camera+lens(+diopter?) capable of at least 1:2
> magnification.
>
> I would also *strongly* suggest that their life would be a lot easier with
> an interchangeable lens camera, capable of shooting raw, with the following
> lenses, and list approximate prices that they might be able to find for the
> equipment on craigslist.
>
> I might also suggest which assignments that they might be able to share
> specialty gear on.
>
>
>
>>
> --
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>
>
>
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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-08 Thread Larry Colen



Mark Roberts wrote:

What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
I'm thinking:
Interchangeable lenses
Manual Exposure&  focus capable
Raw format

Anything else?


I've been thinking about this, and would be inclined to go at it from a 
slightly different angle. I'd break the course up into units, and would 
list the equipment needed for each unit.


Composition: A camera.

Digital exposure: A camera that can create histograms, with full manual 
control over exposure


Selecting focal length: lenses, or cameras capable of a specific range 
of Angle of views. (35mm equiv  28 or wider 40-60, 85 or longer)


Digital processing:  A camera capable of shooting raw, or a film camera 
and a scanner.


Studio: Manual exposure, histogram or strobe meter(with film), ability 
to trigger strobes (pc jack, hot shoe/wireless trigger, manual strobe 
with IR filter ...)


macro photography: camera+lens(+diopter?) capable of at least 1:2 
magnification.


I would also *strongly* suggest that their life would be a lot easier 
with an interchangeable lens camera, capable of shooting raw, with the 
following lenses, and list approximate prices that they might be able to 
find for the equipment on craigslist.


I might also suggest which assignments that they might be able to share 
specialty gear on.







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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-08 Thread Jostein

I think my list would be restricted to manual exposure and raw format.
If you go for interchangeable lenses I'd add a large-aperture prime.

And since it's us you're asking, it should be a Pentax or Ricoh, of 
course. :-)


Jostein


Den 07.08.2016 20.32, skrev Mark Roberts:

What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
I'm thinking:
Interchangeable lenses
Manual Exposure & focus capable
Raw format

Anything else?




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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-08 Thread Jostein Øksne
Those who can, teach.
The rest settle for one-liners. :-) 
Jostein 

Den 7. august 2016 23.14.03 CEST, skrev Paul Stenquist :
>I wouldn't. Had my share of teaching. Now I'm strictly into doing. You
>teach; I'll do.
>
>Paul via phone
>
>
>Paul via phone

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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-08 Thread Bob W-PDML
It's a pity there isn't something like the K1000 in digital. Nowadayd the cheap 
cameras are fully automatic. The non-P cameras start complicated and to get 
simplicity you have to pay increasingly large amounts of money. The world's 
turned upside down.

B

> On 8 Aug 2016, at 06:20, David Mann <dmann...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 5 years from now it probably will.
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave
> 
>> On Aug 8, 2016, at 8:20 AM, John <sesso...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Yeah, that's going to fit right in to a student's budget.
>> 
>>> On 8/7/2016 2:38 PM, Bob W-PDML wrote:
>>> you need to be able to set the ISO manually (probably covered in your
>>> 'manual exposure' requirement.
>>> 
>>> Just check the specs for the Leica MD typ 242. That pretty much
>>> covers it. It's really a student camera...
>>> 
>>> B
>>> 
>>>> On 7 Aug 2016, at 19:33, Mark Roberts <postmas...@robertstech.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
>>>> I'm thinking:
>>>> Interchangeable lenses
>>>> Manual Exposure & focus capable
>>>> Raw format
>>>> 
>>>> Anything else?
>>>> 
>>>> --
>>>> Mark Roberts - Photography & Multimedia
>>>> www.robertstech.com
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
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>> Religion - Answers we must never question.
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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread David Mann
5 years from now it probably will.

Cheers,
Dave

> On Aug 8, 2016, at 8:20 AM, John <sesso...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> Yeah, that's going to fit right in to a student's budget.
> 
> On 8/7/2016 2:38 PM, Bob W-PDML wrote:
>> you need to be able to set the ISO manually (probably covered in your
>> 'manual exposure' requirement.
>> 
>> Just check the specs for the Leica MD typ 242. That pretty much
>> covers it. It's really a student camera...
>> 
>> B
>> 
>>> On 7 Aug 2016, at 19:33, Mark Roberts <postmas...@robertstech.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
>>> I'm thinking:
>>> Interchangeable lenses
>>> Manual Exposure & focus capable
>>> Raw format
>>> 
>>> Anything else?
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Mark Roberts - Photography & Multimedia
>>> www.robertstech.com
>>> 
> 
> 
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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread Paul Stenquist
I wouldn't. Had my share of teaching. Now I'm strictly into doing. You teach; 
I'll do.

Paul via phone


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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread John

On 8/7/2016 3:26 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions (and more are welcome).

Some clarification:
This is an intermediate course – the students have taken Photography 1
There will be a little studio photography later in the semester




If the course is going to include Studio, add a set of wireless flash
triggers. They don't have to be Pocket Wizards; Cactus, Cowboy Studio or
Photix should be good enough and they're not expensive.

Even better are Paul C. Buff CyberSync's - a bit more expensive, but
better quality.


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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread John

Now-a-days it's all done with RF triggers that mount on the hot-shoe.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/wireless-flash-trigger

... and, they make an adapter for the Minolta/Sony proprietary mount.

http://tinyurl.com/Sony-Adapter


On 8/7/2016 3:33 PM, P.J. Alling wrote:

Studio photography usually equals studio strobes.  They'll need a camera
that can trigger those. Probably be best to have either a built in PC
contact, or an available adapter that's compatible with their Camera.
Minolta/Sony propitiatory flash shoes are probably not a good idea.  I
think a few of Sony's recent cameras still use them.

On 8/7/2016 3:26 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions (and more are welcome).

Some clarification:
This is an intermediate course – the students have taken Photography 1
There will be a little studio photography later in the semester






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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread Mark Roberts
John wrote:

>K-1000,
>smc PENTAX-M 1:2 50mm, smc PENTAX-M 1:1.7 50mm or smc PENTAX-M 1:1.4 50mm
>
>(or equivalent Nikon ... EFF Canon!)

Um, nope. It's an all-digital course.
 
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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread John

Yeah, that's going to fit right in to a student's budget.

On 8/7/2016 2:38 PM, Bob W-PDML wrote:

you need to be able to set the ISO manually (probably covered in your
'manual exposure' requirement.

Just check the specs for the Leica MD typ 242. That pretty much
covers it. It's really a student camera...

B


On 7 Aug 2016, at 19:33, Mark Roberts <postmas...@robertstech.com> wrote:

What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
I'm thinking:
Interchangeable lenses
Manual Exposure & focus capable
Raw format

Anything else?

--
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www.robertstech.com




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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread John

K-1000,
smc PENTAX-M 1:2 50mm, smc PENTAX-M 1:1.7 50mm or smc PENTAX-M 1:1.4 50mm

(or equivalent Nikon ... EFF Canon!)


On 8/7/2016 2:32 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:

What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
I'm thinking:
Interchangeable lenses
Manual Exposure & focus capable
Raw format

Anything else?




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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread Mark Roberts
Mark Roberts wrote:

>Thanks for the suggestions (and more are welcome).
>
>Some clarification:
>This is an intermediate course – the students have taken Photography 1
>There will be a little studio photography later in the semester

Come to think of it, if it were up to me I wouldn't even include any
studio photography in this level of photography course (I'd make it a
separate course) but the department expects it, largely to work with
the fashion department. That said, I'm not too worried about
triggering the studio strobes; if all else fails they can be triggered
optically from an on-board flash.

Since this is the second of only two photography courses we have,
getting the students to start working with interchangeable lenses and
the effects of focal length is a must. I'd really like to confine them
to primes but that's a non-starter. (I do plan on restricting some
assignments to specifically one focal length and checking it in the
metadata of the raw files.)

Raw file conversion (and B in particular) will be part of the
course. I'm going to have everyone convert to DNG and embed XMP file
data (trying to get students to upload both a raw file and the XPM
sidecar file that goes with it is too horrible to contemplate).
 
-- 
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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread P.J. Alling
Studio photography usually equals studio strobes.  They'll need a camera 
that can trigger those. Probably be best to have either a built in PC 
contact, or an available adapter that's compatible with their Camera. 
Minolta/Sony propitiatory flash shoes are probably not a good idea.  I 
think a few of Sony's recent cameras still use them.


On 8/7/2016 3:26 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions (and more are welcome).

Some clarification:
This is an intermediate course – the students have taken Photography 1
There will be a little studio photography later in the semester
  



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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread Mark Roberts
Thanks for the suggestions (and more are welcome).

Some clarification:
This is an intermediate course – the students have taken Photography 1
There will be a little studio photography later in the semester
 
-- 
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www.robertstech.com





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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread P.J. Alling
I think that pretty much covers it. Something to teach the basic 
photography skills.  Manual exposure, for the three exposure related 
values, Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO.  Manual Focusing, but it 
probably needs decent focusing aids, given the sorry state of most 
modern viewfinders, either electronic or mechanical.  RAW, but the 
format is important. There are probably obscure RAW formats that aren't 
handled well by mainstream converters.


I can't remember who said it but a camera is basically a light tight box 
with a lens on the front.


Give them a light tight box and make them learn.

On 8/7/2016 2:32 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:

What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
I'm thinking:
Interchangeable lenses
Manual Exposure & focus capable
Raw format

Anything else?
  



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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread Bob W-PDML
Surely they can get jobs as waitrons?

> On 7 Aug 2016, at 19:59, P.J. Alling <webstertwenty...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Which virtually no student can afford.
> 
>> On 8/7/2016 2:38 PM, Bob W-PDML wrote:
>> you need to be able to set the ISO manually (probably covered in your 
>> 'manual exposure' requirement.
>> 
>> Just check the specs for the Leica MD typ 242. That pretty much covers it. 
>> It's really a student camera...
>> 
>> B
>> 
>>> On 7 Aug 2016, at 19:33, Mark Roberts <postmas...@robertstech.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
>>> I'm thinking:
>>> Interchangeable lenses
>>> Manual Exposure & focus capable
>>> Raw format
>>> 
>>> Anything else?
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Mark Roberts - Photography & Multimedia
>>> www.robertstech.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread P.J. Alling

Which virtually no student can afford.

On 8/7/2016 2:38 PM, Bob W-PDML wrote:

you need to be able to set the ISO manually (probably covered in your 'manual 
exposure' requirement.

Just check the specs for the Leica MD typ 242. That pretty much covers it. It's 
really a student camera...

B


On 7 Aug 2016, at 19:33, Mark Roberts <postmas...@robertstech.com> wrote:

What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
I'm thinking:
Interchangeable lenses
Manual Exposure & focus capable
Raw format

Anything else?

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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread Jack Davis
Is the class to include wet darkroom
work? If not, make it a digital for an
impatient age.
J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 7, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Bill  wrote:
> 
>> On 8/7/2016 12:32 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:
>> What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
>> I'm thinking:
>> Interchangeable lenses
>> Manual Exposure & focus capable
>> Raw format
>> 
>> Anything else?
> 
> Take off the interchangeable lenses requirement but insist on a camera with a 
> lens close to the standard for that format, and no zooms
> At the beginner level, interchangeable lenses and zooms complicate things.
> 
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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread Bruce Walker
Really depends on the class, Mark. If I were teaching photography I'd
concentrate on "seeing" (composition, creativity, etc.) and just
require one thing: that it be available. I'd be okay with smartphones
(though I hate 'em).

Were I teaching a course with studio shooting I'd require your list
plus being sure the camera can accept a trigger. I'd also need to
stipulate lenses that would work in the studio space (like 24-70 FF
equivalent).


On Sun, Aug 7, 2016 at 2:32 PM, Mark Roberts <postmas...@robertstech.com> wrote:
> What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
> I'm thinking:
> Interchangeable lenses
> Manual Exposure & focus capable
> Raw format
>
> Anything else?
>
> --
> Mark Roberts - Photography & Multimedia
> www.robertstech.com
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread Bill

On 8/7/2016 12:32 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:

What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
I'm thinking:
Interchangeable lenses
Manual Exposure & focus capable
Raw format

Anything else?




Take off the interchangeable lenses requirement but insist on a camera 
with a lens close to the standard for that format, and no zooms

At the beginner level, interchangeable lenses and zooms complicate things.

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Re: If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread Bob W-PDML
you need to be able to set the ISO manually (probably covered in your 'manual 
exposure' requirement.

Just check the specs for the Leica MD typ 242. That pretty much covers it. It's 
really a student camera...

B

> On 7 Aug 2016, at 19:33, Mark Roberts <postmas...@robertstech.com> wrote:
> 
> What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
> I'm thinking:
> Interchangeable lenses
> Manual Exposure & focus capable
> Raw format
> 
> Anything else?
> 
> -- 
> Mark Roberts - Photography & Multimedia
> www.robertstech.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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If you were teaching a photography class...

2016-08-07 Thread Mark Roberts
What would you set as minimum requirements for a camera?
I'm thinking:
Interchangeable lenses
Manual Exposure & focus capable
Raw format

Anything else?
 
-- 
Mark Roberts - Photography & Multimedia
www.robertstech.com





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OT: Magnum Photography Awards 2016

2016-07-14 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
https://www.lensculture.com/2016-magnum-photography-award-winners?utm_source=General+List_campaign=8ca5516ddb-PA16-Winners+Announcement_medium=email_term=0_f1724e682d-8ca5516ddb-89619205

Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola
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Re: OT: Whisky + Photography + Star Wars

2016-05-25 Thread Nicole Jacque

> On May 25, 2016, at 1:13 AM, Larry Colen  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Nicole Jacque wrote:
>> These are the whiskeys you’re looking for:
> 
> You misspelled whiskies.

:-P

> 
>> 
>> http://designyoutrust.com/2016/05/scotch-trooper-photographer-combines-love-for-storm-troopers-and-whiskey-in-hilarious-series/
> 
> -- 
> Larry Colen  l...@red4est.com (postbox on min4est) http://red4est.com/lrc
> 
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Re: OT: Whisky + Photography + Star Wars

2016-05-25 Thread Larry Colen



Nicole Jacque wrote:

These are the whiskeys you’re looking for:


You misspelled whiskies.



http://designyoutrust.com/2016/05/scotch-trooper-photographer-combines-love-for-storm-troopers-and-whiskey-in-hilarious-series/


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OT: Whisky + Photography + Star Wars

2016-05-25 Thread Nicole Jacque
These are the whiskeys you’re looking for:

http://designyoutrust.com/2016/05/scotch-trooper-photographer-combines-love-for-storm-troopers-and-whiskey-in-hilarious-series/
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Some great mid-century street photography

2016-05-23 Thread Mark Roberts
http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/gallery/2016/may/23/unseen-london-paris-new-york-in-pictures

Really nice stuff from New York, London and Paris.
 
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OT: Evolution of Photography

2016-04-24 Thread Daniel J. Matyola
http://mlkshk.com/p/18BIL

Dan Matyola
http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/danieljmatyola

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: Woo hoo! I'm teaching Digital Photography II next semester!

2016-04-11 Thread Bipin Gupta
Congratulations & good luck Mark. Using a digital camera is instant
fun and for your students instant understanding of the fundamentals as
opposed to the film school days.

Text Books?? Just take you students out after the core classroom
session for a real time hands on experience.

My classroom is a photo walk Mark. Of course my classes are free
through the Bangalore Walks Society.

Bangalore is a green city on 3200 feet height plateau. It has the
Lalbagh Park, a mighty mix of a hill top, a huge lake where bird
varieties are plentiful, a glass house royal British style, a flower
clock, fountains, the rarest of tree varieties, plants and flowers -
literally a horticultural store house, jungle trails with park
benches, hordes of pigeons, a temple, Japanese garden. Flower and
fruit shows are held here regularly. And the colorful stalls a delight
to behold.
Why I mention this? 1) Gives my students a chance to learn and shoot
many genre of Photography - nature, birds, landscape, Macro, Portrait,
just about anything, as this place is a one-in-all.
 2) Perhaps you can find something
similar for your Digital Photography Classes.

Regards.
Bipin.

Light brings great photos & happiness, shadows touch the soul.

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Re: Woo hoo! I'm teaching Digital Photography II next semester!

2016-04-11 Thread Mark C

Congrats! Your students are a lucky bunch!

On 4/11/2016 12:38 PM, Mark Roberts wrote:

Yeah! I get to teach an actual photography course, rather than just
Photoshop, Graphic Design, etc. That'll be nice!




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