Re: [Quantum Owners] Engine/gearbox clearance - Saloon MK2

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

m a Mk7 fiesta I have bought for my 
>> saloon will have more room  this time.
>>  
>> Darren
>>  
>> On Tue, 24 Oct 2023, 09:10 Jim Hearne,  wrote:
>>
>>> I would guess they were trying to keep the  clearance under the wheel 
>>> arches for the wheels
>>> Also, remember the saloon was originally based on the Mk1 Fiesta which 
>>> had the crossflow engine, no CVH’s on the Mk1 so it may have been something 
>>> to do with that as well.
>>>  
>>> The problem with the Zetecs is they have the flat belt pulleys instead 
>>> off the V belt, this makes the engines a cm or more wider.
>>> There have been several ways people have put a Zetec in the saloon.
>>> 1. Solid engine mounts so the engine and gearbox can’t move, somebody 
>>> did this, maybe only for a track car.
>>> 2. Cut away the chassis rail, really not recommended but again has been 
>>> done.
>>> 3. Fit a CVH water pump (which runs off the cam belt instead of the 
>>> auxiliary belt) to the Zetec and convert the alternator and crank pulley to 
>>> CVH V belt versions.
>>> 4. Remove the guts from the Zetec pump and turn it into a outlet pipe 
>>> only, then fit an electric water pump above the alternator.
>>>  
>>> I did the electric water pump version on my saloon.
>>>  
>>> As long as it doesn’t cut through the box section or is too close to the 
>>> edge, one tidy round hole probably wont cause too many issues as the forces 
>>> will go round it. 
>>> Something hacked out by chain drilling (seen that) is somewhat different.
>>> But will it help ?, you will still need to lower the engine to get the 
>>> pulley off so you might as well remove the top engine mount and lower that 
>>> end of the engine down, it can normally be done without having to 
>>> disconnect any pipes or exhaust etc.
>>>  
>>> Jim
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>> *From:* listsub3 
>>> *Sent:* Monday, October 23, 2023 10:57 PM
>>> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com 
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] Engine/gearbox clearance - Saloon MK2
>>>  
>>> Thanks Jim
>>> I will try shifting engine over by slackening fasteniings.
>>> I don't know why Quantum did not make the engine bay a bit wider in 
>>> these tight areas!
>>> The engine block is actually a bored/linered 1.6 efi not Sierra.
>>> Originally I was going to replace this cvh engine with a 2.0 blacktop 
>>> but the car had other more urgent issues and I don't have the zetec motor 
>>> any longer. I seem to remember when I measured up the zetec it would have 
>>> had same clearance issues. I know you have done zetec swaps - did you have 
>>> to cut any bodywork?
>>> I have been tempted to cut a hole in wing just big enough to access the 
>>> crank nut with a socket (which currently is not possible without moving 
>>> engine). Probably not a good idea without at least a removeable 
>>> strengthening plate around it though.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> On 23/10/2023 18:16, Jim Hearne wrote:
>>>
>>> It always is quite tight there the saloon.
>>> The top engine mount is slotted where the rubber part bolts onto the 
>>> bracket on the engine, you can loosen the 2 nuts , lever the engine across 
>>> and retighten the nuts.
>>> Loosening the gearbox cradle to body bolts and the lower rubber mount 
>>> nuts while you lever the engine across may also gain you a few mm.
>>>  
>>> The crank pulley with the bigger outer flange was fitted to some CVH , 
>>> it’s not a mod, i don’t know the reason for it but you can swap for a 
>>> normal pulley no problem.
>>> If it is a conversion of the 1.8L Sierra block the length of the engine 
>>> block and crank is the same and you can directly swap the original Sierra 
>>> crank pulley with a CVH one.
>>> I did a couple of Sierra 1.8 to FWD CVH coversions.
>>>  
>>> Jim
>>>  
>>>  
>>> *From:* list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
>>> *Sent:* Monday, October 23, 2023 5:35 PM
>>> *To:* Quantum Owners Group 
>>> *Subject:* [Quantum Owners] Engine/gearbox clearance - Saloon MK2
>>>  
>>> On my saloon the engine bay clearance at crank pulley end is very small 
>>> - maybe 5mm max between crank pulley rim and inner wing/flitch - it is so 
>>> small the alternator V belt cannot be removed. The gap between plastic timg 
>>> belt cover and body is ev

Re: [Quantum Owners] Pinch Bolt - Front track control arm - Saloon Mk2

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Thanks Jim.
For some reason I had in back of my mind that they were special ground 
tapered bolts ;-)
John


On Monday, 11 September 2023 at 14:12:36 UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

> The Ford part is Finis code 6152276
> It's a 8mm x 40mm Torx head
>
> But you can use a normal HT bolt in there with a hex or allen head , one 
> marked 10.9 or 12.9 would be best, they are stronger than the default 8.8 
> spec.
> Black allen headed bolts tend to be 10.9 as a minimum.
> Ideally find a bolt that has a long enough unthread section to pass 
> through 
> one side of the hub and the slot in the balljoint, but obviously not to 
> much 
> unthreaded so the nut bottoms out.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2023 1:31 PM
> To: Quantum Owners Group
> Subject: [Quantum Owners] Pinch Bolt - Front track control arm - Saloon Mk2
>
> What are the correct pinch bolts for the front track control arm ball 
> joint?
> Mk2 saloon - Fiesta Mk2 XR2 base, Escort Mk4 control arms & anti roll bar.
> Thanks
> John
>
> -- 
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> basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to 
> any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
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>  
>
>
>

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[Quantum Owners] Pinch Bolt - Front track control arm - Saloon Mk2

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

What are the correct pinch bolts for the front track control arm ball joint?
 Mk2 saloon - Fiesta Mk2 XR2 base, Escort Mk4 control arms & anti  roll bar.
Thanks
John

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Re: [Quantum Owners] CVH Thermostat housing - Bypass Valve

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

No rattle on mine. I can see the face of what looks like ball bearing but 
cannot move it backwards. My guess is the ball bearing is supposed to be 
spring loaded. I think the idea is to protect against the thermostat 
failing to open - pressure build up in the heater only circuit then blows 
the ball bearing off its seat releiving pressure to the expansion tank 
outlet. It looks like remvoing the small core plug on housing would give 
accees to ball/spring whatever is in there to clean/free up.

On Wednesday, 2 August 2023 at 14:10:02 UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

> I think there is a ball bearing in there, it normally rattles around, you 
> can hear it if you shake the housing.
> I always assumed it was to do with bleeding air from the system but i may 
> be wrong.
>  
> Not heard of it being a wax pellet.
>  
> Jim
>  
>  
> *From:* list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 2, 2023 1:07 PM
> *To:* Quantum Owners Group 
> *Subject:* [Quantum Owners] CVH Thermostat housing - Bypass Valve
>  
> As part of cooling system overhaul I removed the thermostat housing on my 
> cvh motor. On the hot side of thermostat there is a passge way which looks 
> like it leads to the small bypass outlet on top of housing via some sort of 
> valve. It appears valve is supposed to seal via a ball bearing which I can 
> see part of but cannot get it to move. 
> Has anyone dismantled/replaced one of thes valves? - it look like a small 
> core plug would need to be removed to gain access.
> I read somewhere on net that some cvh motors used a wax pellet in this 
> passage way which melted in overheat situation to protect engine. I think 
> my housing is an early type - part no.82SF-81K572 3A. Looking at photo 
> valve is up the lefmost hole.[image: 20190911_133901.jpg]
> -- 
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> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Radiator Hoses - Saloon with rad in nose

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

I did use the extension method in one config - I used standard XR2 hoses 
together with inline temp sensor adapters in top & bottom hoses.
I think the original rubber hoses that were fitted (which need no 
extensions) may be from an Escort/Orion.
John


On Monday, 31 July 2023 at 00:21:02 UTC+1 Darren Siepka wrote:

> When I relocated my rad to the nosecone I simply extended the original 
> hoses with some suitably sized pipe and jubilee clips! 
> With the new engine install I have been using universal silicone sections 
> and stainless pipe between. Not the cheapest option ( so probably best to 
> wait for your new engine as well)but should last for a long time.
>
> Darren
>
>
> On Sun, 30 Jul 2023, 21:53 list...@liberator-systems.co.uk, <
> list...@liberator-systems.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> I will probably switch to silicone hoses throughout when engine is 
>> changed.
>> For now I am looking for rubber hoses as backups.
>> Th old hoses look like OEM but the markings are too faded to read so 
>> trying to find out what vehicle they are for.
>> John
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, 29 July 2023 at 13:52:54 UTC+1 Ken Needham wrote:
>>
>>> Hi quality silicone hoses are available from  
>>> *www.viperperformance.co.uk* 
>>> <https://deref-gmx.co.uk/mail/client/Pv18Ucd6z_4/dereferrer/?redirectUrl=https%3A%2F%2Femail.viperperformance.co.uk%2Fc%2FeJx0yj1yhCAUAODTQMk83g-wBcXOmL0HyjM6BnUYE3P8FKm3_2oeqVKpVrMPDxARD8kuuaQYWLzUmaWClBh0FpUo44gTPIJdMwISREyeKWFy3j3F40DDBwvFIHEwDD_rqf3UPh-9lX1SNx3ue7Nfebmu09DT4Mvg675v90a2nEgQmG3Pm-5uV61LaYbhs_3-m78AAAD__6DxOcI>
>>> .
>>> They make hoses that enable one to make up any link between units.
>>> regards
>>> ken
>>>
>>> On Fri, 28 Jul 2023 at 19:19, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk <
>>> list...@liberator-systems.co.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Anyone happen to know the source(s) for top & bottom rad hoses? 
>>>> Standard Fiesta ones are obviously not long enough with rad in nosecone. 
>>>> The bottom hose is the type with T juntion  feed from heater return.
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>>>> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an 
>>>> "As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the 
>>>> Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners 
>>>> Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any 
>>>> liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or 
>>>> damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the 
>>>> instructions contained within this or related message(s).
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>>>> .
>>>>
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>> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
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>> person or entity with

Re: [Quantum Owners] Radiator Hoses - Saloon with rad in nose

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

I will probably switch to silicone hoses throughout when engine is changed.
For now I am looking for rubber hoses as backups.
Th old hoses look like OEM but the markings are too faded to read so trying 
to find out what vehicle they are for.
John


On Saturday, 29 July 2023 at 13:52:54 UTC+1 Ken Needham wrote:

> Hi quality silicone hoses are available from  *www.viperperformance.co.uk* 
> <https://deref-gmx.co.uk/mail/client/Pv18Ucd6z_4/dereferrer/?redirectUrl=https%3A%2F%2Femail.viperperformance.co.uk%2Fc%2FeJx0yj1yhCAUAODTQMk83g-wBcXOmL0HyjM6BnUYE3P8FKm3_2oeqVKpVrMPDxARD8kuuaQYWLzUmaWClBh0FpUo44gTPIJdMwISREyeKWFy3j3F40DDBwvFIHEwDD_rqf3UPh-9lX1SNx3ue7Nfebmu09DT4Mvg675v90a2nEgQmG3Pm-5uV61LaYbhs_3-m78AAAD__6DxOcI>
> .
> They make hoses that enable one to make up any link between units.
> regards
> ken
>
> On Fri, 28 Jul 2023 at 19:19, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk <
> list...@liberator-systems.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> Anyone happen to know the source(s) for top & bottom rad hoses? Standard 
>> Fiesta ones are obviously not long enough with rad in nosecone. The bottom 
>> hose is the type with T juntion  feed from heater return.
>> John
>>
>> -- 
>> -- 
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>>  
>> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
>> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
>> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
>> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
>> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
>> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
>> within this or related message(s).
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>> .
>>
>

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[Quantum Owners] Radiator Hoses - Saloon with rad in nose

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Anyone happen to know the source(s) for top & bottom rad hoses? Standard 
Fiesta ones are obviously not long enough with rad in nosecone. The bottom 
hose is the type with T juntion  feed from heater return.
John

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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Headlamp upgrades

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

The headlight rule change re LED etc. in 2021 was pretty silly IMO and came 
in for much criticism. Why pick April 1986 as date ? Surely it would be 
better if all older cars were allowed to improve their halogen style 
headlights. 
My saloon is 1985 reg so luckily I can legally fit led bulbs. 

With regard MOT test I suspect failure is going to be down to how stringent 
the individual tester is. Decent brand led replacement bulbs should give 
correct beam pattern - after all the manufacturer must have spent 
considerable time and effort developing and testing.  So if beam pattern is 
correct why fail? One option of course is to just pop in some old H4 bulbs 
just for the MOT.

John
 
On Saturday, 22 July 2023 at 20:36:04 UTC+1 Mick L wrote:

> As far as I'm aware they allow hid etc if they have washers and self 
> levelling? Correct my if I am wrong?
> --
> *From:* quantu...@googlegroups.com  on behalf 
> of Darren Siepka 
> *Sent:* 22 July 2023 18:38
> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com 
> *Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] Headlamp upgrades 
>  
> Yes my 2+2 head lights ( and flaps) have gone ! 
> I have created a mount with the new 90mm Hella unit and a small indicator( 
> also modular Hella but about 40mm dia) .
> The 90mm unit is a bi-xenon , it has a single bulb with a flap to create 
> the dip cutoff pattern needed for mot.
> Two additional items are also needed for xenon ( not sure about led), that 
> is headlamp washers and self levelling.
> Hella sell universal kits to go with the 90mm products , but the washers 
> are easily and more cheaply done with a universal windscreen wash kit.
>
> Levelling is a little more tricky, the Hella kit uses ultrasonics , I am 
> using OEM lever arm sensors(BMW mini). I am making up a small driver module 
> that will read the inputs and adjust the std OEM headlight motors . I will 
> publish the build details including firmware as open source as I do all my 
> work on GitHub.
> My friendly MOT man is going to let me use the beam aligner out of hours 
> to set it up and confirm all is well before the actual MOT test. But I need 
> to finish getting the car back on road before I can do that.
>
> Darren
>
> On Sat, 22 Jul 2023, 17:51 mgaskin via Quantum Owners Group, <
> quantu...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
>  
>
> I’ve been doing some reading on the rules about headlights as for a long 
> time I’ve wanted to improve my 2+2’s headlights, which seem particularly 
> underwhelming after using my modern car.
>
> There’s a lot of conflicting guidance online, which seems to stem from 
> some changes to the MOT rules. So I started there, with the relevant part 
> seeming to be section 4.1.4: 
> https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/
>
>  
>
> If I’ve understood it correctly, replacing your halogen bulbs with HID or 
> LED equivalents is forbidden for any car used after 1st April 1986, and 
> will lead to an automatic failure (‘light source and lamp not 
> compatible’).  But the part that’s of interest to me, the amended rule, 
> seems to state that there is NOT an automatic failure if you have replaced 
> the **entire** headlamp unit with an LED or HID alternative. I’m 
> presuming that they would need to be CE/UK CA marked, or given an E number 
> but, again, that aspect seems to generate conflicting answers – and 
> imported Japan-only or USA-only models seem to be able to pass MOTs just 
> fine without those markings from what I’ve read.
>
>  
>
> There seem to be loads of possible replacement headlight units out there 
> so I was wondering firstly if I’ve understood all of this correctly (anyone 
> know a tame MOT tester?) and secondly if any of you have replaced your Q’s 
> entire original halogen units with an LED or HID alternative. I’d be 
> fascinated to hear what you picked and how it played out.
>
>  
>
> Hope you’re all having a great weekend.
>
>  
>
> Matthew
>
> Q2-275
>
> -- 
> -- 
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> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Fiesta Mk2 Fuse/Relay Box - Terminal/Wire removal

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Thanks Jim - I thought you may know ;-)

On the terminals with 2 tangs did you end up having to make a tool with 2 
prongs to press the lugs or can it be done using separate tool on each lug?

John

On Thursday, 18 May 2023 at 11:52:26 UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:

> It various according to the size of the terminal but they all have one or 
> 2 lugs on the terminal that need pressing in.
> I usually make the tool out of some welding rod filed down on the end.
> More force will just bend the lugs out into the plastic housing more and 
> end up with them folding back.
>  
> Some of the terminals are joined together for things like grounds and 
> power, they may go round to several different terminals and have lugs in 
> between.
>  
> You can get them out, i did fairly major changes to my fuse box, replacing 
> the dim dip relay positions with other things.
>  
> Jim
>  
>  
>  
>  
> *From:* list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 18, 2023 11:28 AM
> *To:* Quantum Owners Group 
> *Subject:* [Quantum Owners] Fiesta Mk2 Fuse/Relay Box - Terminal/Wire 
> removal
>  
> As per subject what is technique/tool for removing terninals from 
> fuse/relay block? 
>  
> It looks like the locking tang(s) are on the metal terminal (as opposed to 
> housing). I have tried the usual picks/slim screwdrivers but so far have 
> not been able to remove a terminal. Reluctant to use a lot of force in case 
> I damage something.
>  
> Anyone know what the actual terminals used are? Delphi, special Ford 
> only...?
>  
> John
>  
> -- 
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>  
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> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
> within this or related message(s).
> --- 
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>  
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/8bc1df4d-b844-4e14-b5cd-e1a1c495aa63n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
>

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[Quantum Owners] Fiesta Mk2 Fuse/Relay Box - Terminal/Wire removal

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

As per subject what is technique/tool for removing terninals from 
fuse/relay block?

It looks like the locking tang(s) are on the metal terminal (as opposed to 
housing). I have tried the usual picks/slim screwdrivers but so far have 
not been able to remove a terminal. Reluctant to use a lot of force in case 
I damage something.

Anyone know what the actual terminals used are? Delphi, special Ford 
only...?

John

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Dim Dip Lighting

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Current front lights setup on my saloon is spots in the spoiler (wired to 
only come on with main beam). Standard headlamp units (twin filament bulb 
plus separate sidelight bulb). My flaps work correctly even with Dim Dip 
enabled i.e lids open whenever any light is on - side or dim dip main. 

The headlights definitely need upgrading - in the dark it's a bit like 
driving with 2 oil lamps compared to modern cars ;-)
As Jim said probably best to remove Dim Dip completely - it probably would 
not play nicely with led sidelights or mains anyway.
Currently awaiting delivery of new battery as several days of electrical 
testing has finally killed the old one.

John

On Thursday, 11 May 2023 at 10:49:48 UTC+1 Darren Siepka wrote:

> If you have round fog lights on the front , Hella sell 90mm round fogs 
> with integral DRL function. They use a dual filament H15 bulb.
>
> On Thu, 11 May 2023, 09:44 Jim Hearne,  wrote:
>
>> I will have to dig out my Haynes manual, about 20 years since i studied 
>> the dim dip system.
>> Remember you can’t supply power via a relay coil, all that will happen is 
>> the relay will turn on and the current flowing will be no where near enough 
>> to make a headlight bulb light up.
>>  
>> I removed the dim dip from both my 2+2 and saloon as they both have flaps 
>> in front of the headlights so if you have dim dip you are driving around 
>> with the flaps open all the time.
>>  
>> On the saloon which has spot lights i guess i could do some rewiring on 
>> those and run them in series as daytime running lights.
>>  
>> Jim
>>  
>>  
>> *From:* listsub3 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 10, 2023 10:31 PM
>> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com 
>> *Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] Dim Dip Lighting
>>  
>> Thanks for resistance wire info Jim.
>>
>> After looking at XR2/Haynes wiring schematic a bit more it seems the 2nd 
>> Dim Dip relay sends power via the thick green/blue wire to the RH headlight 
>> bulb earth wire and then power flows onto LH bulb. Seems both dipped and 
>> main beam filaments are used.
>>
>> One thing about schematic that puzzles me is that on the 2nd Dim Dip 
>> relay (item 12 on schematic) the negative side of relay coil has 2 
>> connections going out to the main beam left and right wiring. So it looks 
>> like if sidelights only is selected then power is also going to main beam 
>> LH & RH bulbs via that relay coil? Am I missing something?
>>
>> I was going to get meter out and check but battery is now flat (or dead).
>>
>> John
>>
>> On 10/05/2023 09:16, Jim Hearne wrote:
>>
>> The Blue/Green wire is a normal wire, just a thick one so there is 
>> minimal voltage drop i suspect.
>> As you guessed, they do put the 2 bulbs in series for the dim dip.
>> So for normal headlight mode the Blue/Green wire is earthed but for dim 
>> dip mode it’s connected to the other bulb so they end up in series.
>>  
>> The only resistance wire i know of on the Fiestas is on some earlier cars 
>> where they had a Black resistance wire in series with the ignition coil 
>> which was shorted when cranking the engine to give a voltage boost to the 
>> coil.
>>  
>> Jim
>>  
>>  
>> *From:* list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 9, 2023 10:52 PM
>> *To:* Quantum Owners Group 
>> *Subject:* [Quantum Owners] Dim Dip Lighting
>>  
>> I have been updating the wiring on my Mk2 saloon. The relay and fuse 
>> block are not in best of condition. The loom is the type with headlights 
>> operated via relays rather than direct from switch and the Dim Dip lighting 
>> does actually work. 
>>  
>> Does anyone know if the thick Blue/Green wire coming from the 2nd Dim Dip 
>> relay (blue one) is a resistance wire? I ask because it feels different to 
>> other wires of similar thickness and like a wire that has gone stiffer 
>> through overheat cycles. I know the MK2 fuel/relay block can have problems 
>> with overheating so am keen to avoid another problem.
>>  
>> I understand the Ford Dim Dip system operates by lighting the headlights 
>> is series (rather than using a resistor as do some manufacturers). Looking 
>> at the wiring schematic in Haynes seems to confirm that - it looks like the 
>> earth for RH headlight is controlled by one of the Dim Dip relays - but 
>> some of the wiring is puzzling - seems like if sidelights on and ignition 
>> on then DD relay feeds 12v backwards through the earth to RH bulb.
>>  
>> The DD function can be disabled by removing DD Green relay  (V on relay 
>> 

[Quantum Owners] Saloon boot skin & inner separation

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

As per thread subject I have noticed the boot outer skin and inner shell 
are separating in places on my saloon. It looks like some sort of black 
sealant/mastic has been used on mine. Anyone know how they were joined 
originally by factory and any recommendations on method to fix ?

Thanks 
John


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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Inertia switches are readily available from breakers, Ebay etc. Most are 3 
pin but often connector only uses 2 of the pins. 
The one I fitted in my saloon came from a Ford Fusion, Fiesta or similar 
(the type with yellow top).
If you get one from breakers best to get complete with male connector plug 
and short section of wiring harness - this make it easy to wire into 
existing loom. Failing that you need to make connector plug - easy enough - 
most are 3 way AMP connector.
In my setup I also installed a bypass switch and a dashboard warning led to 
show if inertia switch has been triggered (this requires 3rd wire 
connection).  

John



On Sunday, 25 September 2022 at 16:33:07 UTC+1 julian wrote:

> Hi
>
> I have found an air bag sensor (though there are none in the car of 
> course) and close by another potential suspect - see attached. It's the 
> right sort of size but has three connections where the manual says two, 
> although one appears at least to be the right colour code. Also it has no 
> reset button. However what it does have at the top is a cylinder which 
> might once have been the housing for a plunger.
>
> I haven't yet tried testing anything like circuit tracing because the 
> plastic of the connector look easy to break. If it is the right unit, I 
> will attempt to remove it and see if it can be reset. 
>
> Alternatively do you know if a replacement might be obtained? 
>
> Julian
>
>
> On 2022-09-23 14:33, Jim Hearne wrote:
>
> It's bigger than you might think, maybe 50 x 40 x 30 with the red button 
> on the top.
>  
> Jim
>  
>  
> *From:* jul...@cityaudioservices.com
> *Sent:* Friday, September 23, 2022 2:30 PM
> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch
>  
>
> All
>
> I'm assuming from what I can see on the web it's likely to be a small 
> flattish black box.
>
> Fingers crossed I can find it.
>
> Thanks as ever for the help
>
>
> On 2022-09-23 14:09, susanandmartin wrote:
>
> As Steve said, near the door (A) pillar is a common place. In a Mondeo 
> (company car) a work colleague had a flat tyre and changed it, then the 
> vehicle wouldn't start – you can imagine he was pretty exasperated. It 
> turned out the inertia switch was in the boot near where he dropped the 
> punctured tyre/wheel!
>
> Martin Scott 
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail  for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group
> *Sent: *23 September 2022 13:41
> *To: *quantu...@googlegroups.com
> *Subject: *Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch
>
>  
>
> Julian,
>
> Not sure about a standard location, but I think the wiring would naturally 
> position this in the passenger foot well area. Mine was attached to the 
> chassis door pillar in the passenger foot well.
>
> Regards,
> Steve
>
> On 23/09/2022 13:38, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> My H4 cut out unexpectedly at the MoT garage after being driven into the 
> brake test equipment which involved the car being grounded! Looking at the 
> circuit diagram there are several potential reasons why this happened, most 
> of which I know how to diagnose and where to look. But one possible 
> potential problem is the impact sensor which is shown in the Haynes manual.
>
> Does anyone know if these are usually refitted in an H4 and if so is there 
> a 'standard' location? It might help me locate it without having to 
> dismantle the entire vehicle. If anyone has a photo of the actual unit I'm 
> looking for, that would also help.
>
> Thanks
>
> -- 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
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>  
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
> within this or related message(s).
> --- 
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>  
> 
> .
>
> -- 

Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

@Martin
Oh yes LOL misunderstood you there!.
I am sure you are right in that somewhere out there is the right 
replacement seal 
Problem is finding which donor(s) it comes from because no parts listings I 
have found specify the  seal dimensions you required to determine 
suitability.

Anyway my reproduction seal is now on its way so to me so hopefully problem 
will be solved :-)
 
John


On Thursday, 15 September 2022 at 16:11:04 UTC+1 
susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:

> I was thinking of tank seal/grommet, not fuel tank 
>
> Martin
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
> *Sent: *15 September 2022 15:16
> *To: *Quantum Owners Group
> *Subject: *Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal
>
>  
>
> @Jim
>
> Thanks - I did search the various Fords parts catalogs before I got the 
> seals to try. As you say only 2 different types are ever listed (which are 
> the ones I got).
>
> But the later seal is definitely not correct fit in my tank aperture. I 
> believe the original donor for my car was pre 86 XR2  - that fits with my 
> metal filler pipe (not sleeved).
>
> It is is possible I guess that tank is an aftermarket item and was 
> supplied with seal to fit non standard aperture. Tank is heavily painted 
> now so any codes etc. are obscured - a camera inside might find something 
> if it was stamped on _ might try later.
>
>  
>
> @Martin
>
> I think it unlikely to find any other suitable donor tanks given the tight 
> fit of Fiesta tank. Probably easier to get an alloy tank custom made.
>
>  
>
> John
>
>  
>
>  
>
> On Thursday, 15 September 2022 at 14:25:04 UTC+1 Jim Hearne wrote:
>
> Looking on the Ford parts catalogue. 
>
> The 32 litre side sender tank was used on Mk1 XR2 from 1.10.1981, to 
> 31.08.1983 and non Mk1 and Mk2 Fiestas until 1986 
> The Finis code for this seal is 1492183 
>
> The 40 litre top sender tank was used on Mk1 XR2 from 31.08.1983 and all 
> Mk2 
> XR2, and non XR2 Mk2 Fiestas after 1986 , the seal for this tank is Finis 
> code 1549720 
>
> These are the only 2 seals listed. 
>
>
> It looks like there were at least 3 different filler pipes, a metal one 
> for 
> the 34L tank, a metal one for the 40L tank on pre 1986 cars and the 
> plastic 
> one for the 40L tank on all the later cars. 
>
> You can see all the details on a online version of the Ford 
>
>
> https://ford.catalogs-parts.com/#{client:1;page:part;lang:en;category:car;catalog:4;param:no;group:0;groupsubgroup:1518;subgroup:15140;subsubgroup:65647}#13
>  
>
> You might need to join those lines together. 
>
> Jim 
>
>
>
> From: list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
> Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2022 2:02 PM 
> To: Quantum Owners Group 
> Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal 
>
> Several folks have stated MK1 & MK2 filler neck seals are the same but 
> from 
> what I have found this is not always the case. 
> One complete tank & filler pipe I have is an earlier side mounted sender 
> type - the seal on that one takes Ford mm metal filler pipe. 
> The other tank I have in saloon is a later top mounted sender type - the 
> seal on that one also takes a 50mm filler pipe. 
> However the aperture diameter on these tanks where filler seal fits is 
> completely different - the later tank is much bigger. 
> So far I have found and tried 2 different Fiesta seals listed by 
> suppliers. 
> The first one supplied would be the correct one for the early type tank. 
> The second one supplied is bigger OD but is not correct for my later tank 
> (it takes a pipe approx 55mm diameter but fits in a smaller diameter tank 
> aperture than aperture in my tank) . I think this type is for tanks using 
> later plastic filler pipe 
> So there are at least 2 types of standard Fiesta tank seal and so far I 
> have 
> not managed to find a seal which fits my later tank aperture - this 
> implies 
> my later tank is either non standard or there was at least one other type 
> of 
> seal used at some point in production. 
> My old seal is rock hard but otherwise decent condition so I hope to get a 
> reproduction made using it as template. If that fails it looks like I 
> would 
> need to change tank and modify filler to a setup for which seals are 
> available ;-( 
> John 
> . 
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, 15 September 2022 at 10:32:25 UTC+1 Chris G wrote: 
>
> When I changed mine I discovered the seals for MK1 and MK2 are the same 
> part 
> but with different part numbers. 
> My filler neck was made wider with a short le

Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Several folks have stated MK1 & MK2 filler neck seals are the same but from 
what I have found this is not always the case.
One complete tank & filler pipe I have is an earlier side mounted sender 
type - the seal on that one takes Ford mm metal filler pipe.
The other tank I have in saloon is a later top mounted sender type - the 
seal on that one also takes a 50mm filler pipe.
However the aperture diameter on these tanks where filler seal fits is 
completely different - the later tank is much bigger.
So far I have found and tried 2 different Fiesta seals listed by suppliers.
The first one supplied would be the correct one for the early type tank.
The second one supplied is bigger OD but is not correct for my later tank 
(it takes a pipe approx 55mm diameter but fits in a smaller diameter tank 
aperture than aperture in my tank) . I think this type is for tanks using 
later plastic filler pipe
So there are at least 2 types of standard Fiesta tank seal and so far I 
have not managed to find a seal which fits my later tank aperture - this 
implies my later tank is either non standard or there was at least one 
other type of seal used at some point in production.
My old seal is rock hard but otherwise decent condition so I hope to get a 
reproduction made using it as template. If that fails it looks like I would 
need to change tank and modify filler to a setup for which seals are 
available ;-(
John
.





On Thursday, 15 September 2022 at 10:32:25 UTC+1 Chris G wrote:

> When I changed mine I discovered the seals for MK1 and MK2 are the same 
> part but with different part numbers.
> My filler neck was made wider with a short length of metal tube where it 
> goes into the tank. Then the filler neck went inside with a short section 
> of flexible hose attached.
>  
> Chris G
>  
> *From:* list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 7, 2022 8:40 PM
> *To:* Quantum Owners Group 
> *Subject:* [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal
>  
> On my saloon I need to replace the grommet/seal (where filler pipe 
> enters)  on my MK2 tank (40l top sender type) as it has gone really hard 
> with age. 
> But I am struggling to find a correct replacement seal. My filler pipe is 
> the metal type 50mm diameter. The aperture in the tank where seal fits is 
> approx 61mm inside diameter.
> I have found seals to fit 50mm pipe but they are much smaller tank fitting 
> diameter - these match the seal on an old earlier type tank (side sender) 
> II have in garage.
> So does anyone happen to know if the seal I need is a Fiesta part or was 
> it sourced from another car?
> John
>  
> -- 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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>  
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
> within this or related message(s).
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>  
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/f3c1e8eb-23b5-49cb-b394-6d3ae0ded06cn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
>

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entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage cau

[Quantum Owners] Re: Left Rear brake problem

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Might be worth checking the rear shoe ratchet mechanism is 
working/adjusted  correctly. If ratchet is worn out it fails to hold shoe 
as close to drum as it should.

John

On Sunday, 11 September 2022 at 18:32:11 UTC+1 Hans wrote:

> Dear All,
>  
> My left rear brake has much less braking power than right
> MOT failure  0.2 vs 0.8 
>  
> Replaced brake drums (right had cracks on brake surface)
> Replaced brake shoes
> Bleeded the rear brakes
> Both cylinder are less than 2 years ago replaced (17,5mm) incl. the copper 
> rear axle brakeline (outside diamater 5mm)
> Took the left brakeshoes off and tested the cylinder – it is not stuck. 
> moves freely in and out – by slightly pushing the brake pedal and by hand, 
> no leak.
> Put a bit of grease on the ratched mechanism
> Slightly sanded the left bakeshoe, decrease it with brake cleaner, roughed 
> the inside of the brake drum (60 grid)
>  
> Any sugestions?
>  
>  
> Hans
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>

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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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[Quantum Owners] Re: Recomended Rear brake cylinder size Saloon

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

The QSC recommended rear cylinder size seemed to change a few times. You 
did not mention if you have G valve in rear circuit. If you were not 
suffering with rear wheel locking then probably best to just replace 
existing cylinders with same (size is usually marked on cylinder).  I do 
not have G valve on my saloon and rears are 15mm.

John


On Saturday, 10 September 2022 at 11:07:03 UTC+1 Hans wrote:

> Dear All
>  
> What is the recomended rear brake cylinder size for a QSC saloon Q113?
> 17,5 or 20mm
>  
> Hans
>  
>  
>  
>  
>

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Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

I have 2 versions of saloon assembly manual. The version 1.0 copy briefly 
states Fiesta MK1 filler pipe must be used and cut and sleeved - no real 
detail just a photo..An obviously later pdf copy (but version not stated) 
of manual I have gives much more detail of cutting, sleeving and joining 
metal filler pipe with hose and clips.
On my car which was a factory build (around late 1991 with Mk2 XR2 donor) 
the metal filler pipe is one continuous pipe - the Ford pipe has clearly 
been carefully cut  and welded (very neatly) in several places with 
breather pipe correctly preserved. There are no sleeves. My guess is QSC 
did this as an improved solution over joining sections with flexi hose and 
jubilee clips. 
The seal is a puzzle - it has no code markings. it does not match the 
standard  ones I have found  for Fiesta, it could be custom seal or a 
pattern tank (unlikekly). My guess is it is from another Ford of similar 
era ?
If all else fails I could always get a new seal made using old one as model.
ps
If anyone has a MK2 top sender type tank lying around could they please 
measure the inside diameter of the filler pipe aperture - this would help 
me confirm if my tank is standard.
 Thanks

On Thursday, 8 September 2022 at 09:53:09 UTC+1 
susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:

> It is – but I remember there was an additional metal piece as shown in the 
> saloon assembly manual.
>
> Martin Scott
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
> *Sent: *07 September 2022 22:28
> *To: *Quantum Owners Group
> *Subject: *Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal
>
>  
>
> @Martin - is that using metal filler pipe into a later type tank?
>
>  
>
> On Wednesday, September 7, 2022 at 10:12:20 PM UTC+1 
> susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:
>
> Mine used a standard Fiesta seal.
>
> Martin Scott
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
> *Sent: *07 September 2022 20:40
> *To: *Quantum Owners Group
> *Subject: *[Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal
>
>  
>
> On my saloon I need to replace the grommet/seal (where filler pipe 
> enters)  on my MK2 tank (40l top sender type) as it has gone really hard 
> with age.
>
> But I am struggling to find a correct replacement seal. My filler pipe is 
> the metal type 50mm diameter. The aperture in the tank where seal fits is 
> approx 61mm inside diameter.
>
> I have found seals to fit 50mm pipe but they are much smaller tank fitting 
> diameter - these match the seal on an old earlier type tank (side sender) 
> II have in garage.
>
> So does anyone happen to know if the seal I need is a Fiesta part or was 
> it sourced from another car?
>
> John
>
>  
>
> -- 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
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> quantumowner...@googlegroups.com
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> http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en
>  
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
> within this or related message(s).
> --- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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> email to quantumowner...@googlegroups.com.
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>  
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/f3c1e8eb-23b5-49cb-b394-6d3ae0ded06cn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
>
>  
>
> -- 
> -- 
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> http://groups.google.com/group/qua

Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Correction to my original post. Internal diameter of filler pipe seal 
opening in my fuel tank is approx 68mm not 61mm.
On Wednesday, September 7, 2022 at 10:12:20 PM UTC+1 
susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:

> Mine used a standard Fiesta seal.
>
> Martin Scott
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
> *Sent: *07 September 2022 20:40
> *To: *Quantum Owners Group
> *Subject: *[Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal
>
>  
>
> On my saloon I need to replace the grommet/seal (where filler pipe 
> enters)  on my MK2 tank (40l top sender type) as it has gone really hard 
> with age.
>
> But I am struggling to find a correct replacement seal. My filler pipe is 
> the metal type 50mm diameter. The aperture in the tank where seal fits is 
> approx 61mm inside diameter.
>
> I have found seals to fit 50mm pipe but they are much smaller tank fitting 
> diameter - these match the seal on an old earlier type tank (side sender) 
> II have in garage.
>
> So does anyone happen to know if the seal I need is a Fiesta part or was 
> it sourced from another car?
>
> John
>
>  
>
> -- 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
> To post to this group, send email to quantu...@googlegroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> quantumowner...@googlegroups.com
> For more options, visit this group at 
> http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en
>  
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
> within this or related message(s).
> --- 
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> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to quantumowner...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
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>  
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/f3c1e8eb-23b5-49cb-b394-6d3ae0ded06cn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
>
>  
>

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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

@Martin - is that using metal filler pipe into a later type tank?


On Wednesday, September 7, 2022 at 10:12:20 PM UTC+1 
susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:

> Mine used a standard Fiesta seal.
>
> Martin Scott
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
> *Sent: *07 September 2022 20:40
> *To: *Quantum Owners Group
> *Subject: *[Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal
>
>  
>
> On my saloon I need to replace the grommet/seal (where filler pipe 
> enters)  on my MK2 tank (40l top sender type) as it has gone really hard 
> with age.
>
> But I am struggling to find a correct replacement seal. My filler pipe is 
> the metal type 50mm diameter. The aperture in the tank where seal fits is 
> approx 61mm inside diameter.
>
> I have found seals to fit 50mm pipe but they are much smaller tank fitting 
> diameter - these match the seal on an old earlier type tank (side sender) 
> II have in garage.
>
> So does anyone happen to know if the seal I need is a Fiesta part or was 
> it sourced from another car?
>
> John
>
>  
>
> -- 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
> To post to this group, send email to quantu...@googlegroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> quantumowner...@googlegroups.com
> For more options, visit this group at 
> http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en
>  
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
> within this or related message(s).
> --- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to quantumowner...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/f3c1e8eb-23b5-49cb-b394-6d3ae0ded06cn%40googlegroups.com
>  
> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/f3c1e8eb-23b5-49cb-b394-6d3ae0ded06cn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
>
>  
>

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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[Quantum Owners] Fuel tank grommet/seal

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

On my saloon I need to replace the grommet/seal (where filler pipe enters)  
on my MK2 tank (40l top sender type) as it has gone really hard with age.
But I am struggling to find a correct replacement seal. My filler pipe is 
the metal type 50mm diameter. The aperture in the tank where seal fits is 
approx 61mm inside diameter.
I have found seals to fit 50mm pipe but they are much smaller tank fitting 
diameter - these match the seal on an old earlier type tank (side sender) 
II have in garage.
So does anyone happen to know if the seal I need is a Fiesta part or was it 
sourced from another car?
John
 

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" 
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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Electric Windows

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Chris
I read your article the other day which helped convince me KA Mk1 
regulators are the best way forward.
Have just managed to source a pair for £28 so looks like a great value 
upgrade!
Thanks
John

On Friday, 27 May 2022 at 13:44:54 UTC+1 Chris Fairlie wrote:

> John
>
>  
>
> I can confirm that MK1 KA window regulators can be used. I wrote an 
> article, published on Quantum Mechanics Issue 95 (Autumn 2018) explaining 
> how I fitted them in a 2+2. Later I Andy Heaton and I fitted some to his 
> saloon. The link Steve provided shows how to shorten the runner. The other 
> issue is the KA regulator cables are shorter than the Mk3 Fiesta 3 door 
> units so the motor mounting holes need to be relocated.
>
>  
>
> Regards
>
>  
>
> Chris Fairlie
>
>  
>
> *From:* 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group [mailto:
> quantu...@googlegroups.com] 
> *Sent:* 27 May 2022 10:51
> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] Electric Windows
>
>  
>
> John,
>
> I hope this is the image you remember on the club website.
>
>
> https://www.quantumowners.club/index.php/faq-qoc/27-faq-saloon/11-qoc-faq-saloon-window-mods
>
> Regards,
> Steve
>
> On 25/05/2022 18:36, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk wrote:
>
> @ Jim 
>
> The use of 4 core cable may well be for redundancy but my guess is as you 
> say they just used what they had ;-) - that fits with a lot of the other 
> additional wiring where it appears they only ever had 2 wire colors in 
> stock. 
>
> All 4 cores seem to have god continuity so  at least I don't have to 
> replace that as it looks like a pig to do.
>
> Not sure if my window switches are Ford - they look like the generic 
> rectangular electric window 5 pin switch with spade terminals - maybe they 
> have already been replaced once.
>
> I have not measured the load motors draw but my early version copy of 
> build manual show 30A fuse on supply so relays seem a better way than 
> direct - as you say need 2 per side
>
>  
>
> Looking at regulators I can now see mine  have the 90 degree bend at 
> bottom (what a bodge solution that was LOL) so most likely a failure 
> waiting to happen if not already  in progress!
>
> I recall seeing a drawing detailing window mods (I think you were the 
> authorJim) but cannot find it now.
>
>  
>
> @Martin
>
> The KA mk1 units look like the best option to me - easily and cheaply 
> available and newer. The cable sections are shorter than the the Fiesta MK3 
> so the motor mount position would have to move but that is easy enough. 
> Same motor reverse polarity operation via switch (or relay in my case).
>
>  
>
> With regard motor change I think it should be possible (but probably not 
> cost effective)  - the motor just drives a worm gear but that of course 
> needs to be same on both units. I have taken regulators apart before to 
> replace cables - most of them just wind the cables around a grooved nylon 
> drum. I think in theory you could shorten the cable instead of fitting 
> spacer on sleeve (need to solder on new nipple in correct place). 
>
>  
>
> I have now confirmed that I have the 90 degree bend units so these 
> definitely need to be replaced.   
>
>  
>
> John
>
>  
>
>  
>
> On Wednesday, 25 May 2022 at 15:28:12 UTC+1 
> susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:
>
> Hello John,
>
> I adapted a mk1 Ford Ka unit to do the job – I suspect it’s almost 
> identical to other Fords. The wiring is 2 core to each motor, and the 
> polarity is changed by the switch for either up or down motion. 
>
> I’m pretty sure it’s not possible (or certainly very difficult ) to just 
> change the motor unit because the lift wire is coiled within a geared 
> housing attached to the motor – If you are brave enough to dismantle an 
> existing unit from your car it may answer whether a motor swap is possible. 
> I changed to electric because my manual winders had the ‘bend the track’ 
> modification, which is ultimately doomed for failure because the lift wire 
> cuts into the track – If the tracks on your car are modified in this way 
> (bent 90 degrees) that could explain the slow movement. If it is helpful, 
> the 
>
> conversion covering the parts needed and how to make the changes without 
> bending the track was in issue 176 (March 2021) of Complete Kit Car 
> magazine 
>
> Back Issues [2] - performancepublishing.co.uk 
> <https://www.performancepublishing.co.uk/back-issues/page/2/>
>
> Regards, Martin Scott 
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *list...@liberato

Re: [Quantum Owners] Electric Windows

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Steve
That is the diagram I was after :-)
 For some reason that link on the club website would not work for me the 
other day.
Many thanks
John

On Friday, 27 May 2022 at 10:50:40 UTC+1 Steve Kodz wrote:

> John,
>
> I hope this is the image you remember on the club website.
>
>
> https://www.quantumowners.club/index.php/faq-qoc/27-faq-saloon/11-qoc-faq-saloon-window-mods
>
> Regards,
> Steve
> On 25/05/2022 18:36, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk wrote:
>
> @ Jim 
> The use of 4 core cable may well be for redundancy but my guess is as you 
> say they just used what they had ;-) - that fits with a lot of the other 
> additional wiring where it appears they only ever had 2 wire colors in 
> stock. 
> All 4 cores seem to have god continuity so  at least I don't have to 
> replace that as it looks like a pig to do.
> Not sure if my window switches are Ford - they look like the generic 
> rectangular electric window 5 pin switch with spade terminals - maybe they 
> have already been replaced once.
> I have not measured the load motors draw but my early version copy of 
> build manual show 30A fuse on supply so relays seem a better way than 
> direct - as you say need 2 per side
>
> Looking at regulators I can now see mine  have the 90 degree bend at 
> bottom (what a bodge solution that was LOL) so most likely a failure 
> waiting to happen if not already  in progress!
> I recall seeing a drawing detailing window mods (I think you were the 
> authorJim) but cannot find it now.
>
> @Martin
> The KA mk1 units look like the best option to me - easily and cheaply 
> available and newer. The cable sections are shorter than the the Fiesta MK3 
> so the motor mount position would have to move but that is easy enough. 
> Same motor reverse polarity operation via switch (or relay in my case).
>
> With regard motor change I think it should be possible (but probably not 
> cost effective)  - the motor just drives a worm gear but that of course 
> needs to be same on both units. I have taken regulators apart before to 
> replace cables - most of them just wind the cables around a grooved nylon 
> drum. I think in theory you could shorten the cable instead of fitting 
> spacer on sleeve (need to solder on new nipple in correct place). 
>
> I have now confirmed that I have the 90 degree bend units so these 
> definitely need to be replaced.   
>
> John
>
>
> On Wednesday, 25 May 2022 at 15:28:12 UTC+1 
> susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:
>
>> Hello John,
>>
>> I adapted a mk1 Ford Ka unit to do the job – I suspect it’s almost 
>> identical to other Fords. The wiring is 2 core to each motor, and the 
>> polarity is changed by the switch for either up or down motion. 
>>
>> I’m pretty sure it’s not possible (or certainly very difficult ) to just 
>> change the motor unit because the lift wire is coiled within a geared 
>> housing attached to the motor – If you are brave enough to dismantle an 
>> existing unit from your car it may answer whether a motor swap is possible. 
>> I changed to electric because my manual winders had the ‘bend the track’ 
>> modification, which is ultimately doomed for failure because the lift wire 
>> cuts into the track – If the tracks on your car are modified in this way 
>> (bent 90 degrees) that could explain the slow movement. If it is 
>> helpful, the 
>>
>> conversion covering the parts needed and how to make the changes without 
>> bending the track was in issue 176 (March 2021) of Complete Kit Car 
>> magazine 
>>
>> Back Issues [2] - performancepublishing.co.uk 
>> <https://www.performancepublishing.co.uk/back-issues/page/2/>
>>
>> Regards, Martin Scott 
>>
>>  
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>> Windows 10
>>
>>  
>>
>> *From: *list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
>> *Sent: *25 May 2022 14:50
>> *To: *Quantum Owners Group
>> *Subject: *[Quantum Owners] Electric Windows
>>
>>  
>>
>> I have recently been doing quite a bit of rewiring on my saloon (factory 
>> built). I noticed the wiring cable for electric windows (looks original) is 
>> 4 core (Red white black brown) going from cabin into door cavity  but at 
>> each end of this cable 2 pairs are joined so effectively 2 core cable 
>> connecting motor to centre console switch. Wondering why 4 core cable was 
>> used in build? - possible wiring of extra door switch? . The wire gauge 
>> looks same on 4 core and switch connection cables so extra load capacity 
>> seems unlikely. Currently the switches are wired directly (no relays). New

Re: [Quantum Owners] Electric Windows

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

@ Jim
The use of 4 core cable may well be for redundancy but my guess is as you 
say they just used what they had ;-) - that fits with a lot of the other 
additional wiring where it appears they only ever had 2 wire colors in 
stock. 
All 4 cores seem to have god continuity so  at least I don't have to 
replace that as it looks like a pig to do.
Not sure if my window switches are Ford - they look like the generic 
rectangular electric window 5 pin switch with spade terminals - maybe they 
have already been replaced once.
I have not measured the load motors draw but my early version copy of build 
manual show 30A fuse on supply so relays seem a better way than direct - as 
you say need 2 per side

Looking at regulators I can now see mine  have the 90 degree bend at bottom 
(what a bodge solution that was LOL) so most likely a failure waiting to 
happen if not already  in progress!
I recall seeing a drawing detailing window mods (I think you were the 
authorJim) but cannot find it now.

@Martin
The KA mk1 units look like the best option to me - easily and cheaply 
available and newer. The cable sections are shorter than the the Fiesta MK3 
so the motor mount position would have to move but that is easy enough. 
Same motor reverse polarity operation via switch (or relay in my case).

With regard motor change I think it should be possible (but probably not 
cost effective)  - the motor just drives a worm gear but that of course 
needs to be same on both units. I have taken regulators apart before to 
replace cables - most of them just wind the cables around a grooved nylon 
drum. I think in theory you could shorten the cable instead of fitting 
spacer on sleeve (need to solder on new nipple in correct place). 

I have now confirmed that I have the 90 degree bend units so these 
definitely need to be replaced.   

John


On Wednesday, 25 May 2022 at 15:28:12 UTC+1 
susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:

> Hello John,
>
> I adapted a mk1 Ford Ka unit to do the job – I suspect it’s almost 
> identical to other Fords. The wiring is 2 core to each motor, and the 
> polarity is changed by the switch for either up or down motion. 
>
> I’m pretty sure it’s not possible (or certainly very difficult ) to just 
> change the motor unit because the lift wire is coiled within a geared 
> housing attached to the motor – If you are brave enough to dismantle an 
> existing unit from your car it may answer whether a motor swap is possible. 
> I changed to electric because my manual winders had the ‘bend the track’ 
> modification, which is ultimately doomed for failure because the lift wire 
> cuts into the track – If the tracks on your car are modified in this way 
> (bent 90 degrees) that could explain the slow movement. If it is helpful, 
> the 
>
> conversion covering the parts needed and how to make the changes without 
> bending the track was in issue 176 (March 2021) of Complete Kit Car 
> magazine 
>
> Back Issues [2] - performancepublishing.co.uk 
> <https://www.performancepublishing.co.uk/back-issues/page/2/>
>
> Regards, Martin Scott 
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
> *Sent: *25 May 2022 14:50
> *To: *Quantum Owners Group
> *Subject: *[Quantum Owners] Electric Windows
>
>  
>
> I have recently been doing quite a bit of rewiring on my saloon (factory 
> built). I noticed the wiring cable for electric windows (looks original) is 
> 4 core (Red white black brown) going from cabin into door cavity  but at 
> each end of this cable 2 pairs are joined so effectively 2 core cable 
> connecting motor to centre console switch. Wondering why 4 core cable was 
> used in build? - possible wiring of extra door switch? . The wire gauge 
> looks same on 4 core and switch connection cables so extra load capacity 
> seems unlikely. Currently the switches are wired directly (no relays). New 
> switches and relay operation are going to be fitted. 
>
>  
>
> Window movement is really slow. I don't think this is due to dirty glass 
> friction etc. so maybe motors are tired. The current setup is using Bosch 
> motors which I guess is probably Ford Fiesta Mk3 original type (see pic). 
> If the mechanical side of regulator/cable is ok I was wondering if just 
> motor can be replaced on these? (a lot of Bosch units look very similar 
> although slightly different part numbers)
>
>  
>
> If I replace complete regulator with motor which donors have owners found 
> best or easiest to fit? I think originally modded Fiesta MK3 units were 
> fitted but others have mentioned MK4 MK5? can be adapted as can Ford KA 
> units.
>
>  
>
> John
>
> -- 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subsc

[Quantum Owners] Re: Seats - Saloon, 2+2..

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

@calma
Thanks I had been looking at MX5 seats as they seem to be a popular choice 
for kit/older cars. Did you specifically choose MK1 seats? - I have been 
trying to find difference between the various MX5 MKs. One  issue I have 
seen comments about with MX5 seat swaps is that they make the drivers 
seating position high(er) - is that something you found?

MGF/TF seats appear to be another popular swap on other cars - anyone tried 
that?

Ideally I want seats with tilt, good support, not leather. 
On Saturday, 25 September 2021 at 22:32:35 UTC+1 calma...@hotmail.co.uk 
wrote:

> I have mk 1 Mazda MX5 seats in mine, not to bad to adapt runners with a 
> bit of boxed steel; [image: IMG_0489.JPG]
>
> On Friday, 24 September 2021 at 22:31:45 UTC+1 
> list...@liberator-systems.co.uk wrote:
>
>> Currently my saloon has XR2 front seats. These are just about OK for road 
>> use but lack decent support for track days. Looking for suggestions on easy 
>> swap reasonable cost alternatives.  Escort RS Recaros are apparently  a 
>> straight swap but they go for silly money!
>>
>> John
>>
>>

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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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[Quantum Owners] Seats - Saloon, 2+2..

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Currently my saloon has XR2 front seats. These are just about OK for road 
use but lack decent support for track days. Looking for suggestions on easy 
swap reasonable cost alternatives.  Escort RS Recaros are apparently  a 
straight swap but they go for silly money!

John

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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

@Bill
Many thanks for your tips - I have read your Full Rebuild thread numerous 
times - superb work!

@BIll & Jim
Your comments about water ingress into sill area have set alarm bells 
ringing in my head! Corrosion on bonded in structural parts is usually 
reaaly bad news - been there before many years ago.

 I must inspect mine carefully tomorrow. Are there particular signs that 
corrosion has set in?

@Derek 
Re heated screens - in addition to your link I found an old thread on XR2 
forum where they were trying to organise a group buy for heated screens. 
The manufacturer required min order of 10 all of same type (clear, tinted, 
top tint) so I guess tinted versions are/were available somewhere.

John

On Friday, 26 March 2021 at 15:54:35 UTC Jim Hearne wrote:

> It is an issue on the 2+2 as well as the saloon as they have a very 
> similar 
> joint between the fibreglass and the body around the bottom of the A 
> pillar.
> This area is very tricky to access.
>
> On the saloon they tried to leave a passage down between the sill and the 
> body with a drain hole at the bottom.
> On the 2+2 the drain hole went out into the door shut so in theory the 
> water 
> doesn't go near the sill
>
> The issue on the 2+2 is the drain hole is quite a distance above the level 
> of the bottom of the "pocket" that fills with water via the door hinge 
> holes.
> So if the fibreglassing between the sill and the body has any leaks at all 
> the water gets down around the sill tube.
>
> On my 2+2 and Matthews i filled the pocket area up to the level of the 
> drain 
> hole, on mine with foam and fibreglass over the top, on Matthews with 
> polyurethane resin left over from work.
>
> On my saloon i drilled up the existing drain passage with a large drill to 
> create a round hole, then i bonded a brass tube of a suitable height into 
> the drain hole.
> The top end of the tube was sealed around with plasticine and then several 
> coats of rubber compound. So the water can only go down the tube.
>
> Jim
>
>
> -Original Message- 
> From: mgaskin via Quantum Owners Group
> Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 3:34 PM
> To: quantu...@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation
>
>
> >Finally, check that no water has entered the sills. Poor fibreglass 
> lay-up 
> >by QSC at the front of the sill in front of the 'A' pillar led to me 
> having 
> >to
> >replace the metal sill - it had rotted away to nothing near the seat belt 
> >attachment!
> >(
> https://quantumforum.proboards.com/thread/522/quantum-saloon-full-rebuild?page=2
> )
>
> This sounds like a possible (and alarming) explanation for the brown patch 
> under the gelcoat on my 2+2 below the door hinges in the sill. I've asked 
> for a logon for the proboards to look at your link.
>
> Matthew
>
>
> -- 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
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> For more options, visit this group at 
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>
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
> Is" 
> basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to 
> any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
> within this or related message(s).
> --- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
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> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>
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>  
>
>
>

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Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

@nigel
My big bore cvh motor is linered according to Power Engineering who did the 
engine conversion work. It hasn't blown up yet although as I said earlier I 
was planning to replace it with a 2.0 zetec blacktop  for easier power 
increases - may need to re-think that if blacktop piston availability is an 
ongoing issue.

@jimLOL your comments re engine reconditioners - there are certainly some 
dodgy ones. To be fair there are also some decent companies - I have been 
inside several - impressive machinery and skiled folks operating them.  Of 
course s/h engine is always going to be the cheapest option but most are an 
unknown quantity - even if you get a short guarantee you can waste a lot of 
time installing only to discover it has problems and has to be pulled out 
again

John

On Friday, 26 March 2021 at 17:20:39 UTC Jim Hearne wrote:

> Detonation will kill a turbo engine really quickly.
> And running standard compression it’s going to detonate at anything above 
> a tiny level of boost.
> What boost were you running ?
> I assume it has a aftermarket ecu ?, does it have a knock sensor on it ?
>  
> Not really heard of sleeving being used on a cast iron block but i guess 
> it’s possible.
> The joint between the sleeve and the block may reduce it’s heat transfer 
> ability which is of course just what you don’t want.
>  
> Jim
>  
>  
>  
>  
> *From:* Nigel Plant 
> *Sent:* Friday, March 26, 2021 5:05 PM
> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com 
> *Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons
> Silvertop oversize pistons are readily available. 
> I think mine failed due to about 20 track days approx 10 with turbo and 
> too much fuel at start up. I also ran with standard compression and there 
> was significant evidence of pre detonation particularly on the #3 piston 
> which failed. However I dont think it was significant enough to be the 
> cause. I dont yet have the piston, so haven't inspected it in detail.
> I do have a second engine but that has worn bores. One option is to use 
> that but with the block sleeved so I can reuse those pistons. Does anyone 
> have experience of sleeving, I dont, so am hesitant to go that route.
>  
> On Fri, 26 Mar 2021, 16:37 list...@liberator-systems.co.uk, <
> list...@liberator-systems.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> I was planning to drop a 2.0l blacktop and possibly turbo into my saloon. 
>> This piston availablity issue is making me think twice. Is it the same 
>> problem for the old silvertop? How many manufacturers are there for 
>> standard type pistons? Wondering how the engine reconditioning businesses 
>> source their pistons. 
>>  
>> John
>>  
>> On Thursday, 25 March 2021 at 18:36:23 UTC nige...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Jim, will respond to your other later, some interesting points! 
>>> Oversize pistons for blacktop are quoted for on plenty of web sites, but 
>>> are never available. Supplier calls the manufacturer and they all come back 
>>> with same story. 
>>> Regards
>>>  
>>> On Thu, 25 Mar 2021, 16:23 Jim Hearne,  wrote:
>>>
>>>> As you say, i don’t think Ford sells pistons for a Black top Zetec as a 
>>>> spare, they want you to replace the whole bottom end.
>>>> The Zetec SE is the same.
>>>>  
>>>> Jim
>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>> *From:* susanandmartin 
>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 3:28 PM
>>>> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com 
>>>> *Subject:* RE: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons
>>>>  
>>>>
>>>> Not that it helps with your quest, but (hopefully) of interest. 
>>>>
>>>> When I was working at Ford we had an engine being tested for cold start 
>>>> durability at a University. As proof (if it was ever needed) that starting 
>>>> an engine repeatedly from cold with a fuel-enriched intake mixture would 
>>>> wreck an engine, there was a need for new pistons after several months and 
>>>> x000’s of start procedures. When trying to source new pistons, however, it 
>>>> was found they were not listed as a spare and could only be bought with an 
>>>> engine block. As this wouldn’t help our engine block durability testing, 
>>>> great discussions ensued taking several hours and it was agreed some 
>>>> pistons could be supplied direct from the assembly line (maybe one car was 
>>>> released without pistons? ). This is a good example of how Ford goes 
>>>> to great lengths with their testing (and probably other manufacturers do 
>>>> as 
>>>> well).
>

Re: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

I was planning to drop a 2.0l blacktop and possibly turbo into my saloon. 
This piston availablity issue is making me think twice. Is it the same 
problem for the old silvertop? How many manufacturers are there for 
standard type pistons? Wondering how the engine reconditioning businesses 
source their pistons.

John

On Thursday, 25 March 2021 at 18:36:23 UTC nige...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks Jim, will respond to your other later, some interesting points! 
> Oversize pistons for blacktop are quoted for on plenty of web sites, but 
> are never available. Supplier calls the manufacturer and they all come back 
> with same story.
> Regards
>
> On Thu, 25 Mar 2021, 16:23 Jim Hearne,  wrote:
>
>> As you say, i don’t think Ford sells pistons for a Black top Zetec as a 
>> spare, they want you to replace the whole bottom end.
>> The Zetec SE is the same.
>>  
>> Jim
>>  
>>  
>> *From:* susanandmartin 
>> *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 3:28 PM
>> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com 
>> *Subject:* RE: [Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons
>>  
>>
>> Not that it helps with your quest, but (hopefully) of interest. 
>>
>> When I was working at Ford we had an engine being tested for cold start 
>> durability at a University. As proof (if it was ever needed) that starting 
>> an engine repeatedly from cold with a fuel-enriched intake mixture would 
>> wreck an engine, there was a need for new pistons after several months and 
>> x000’s of start procedures. When trying to source new pistons, however, it 
>> was found they were not listed as a spare and could only be bought with an 
>> engine block. As this wouldn’t help our engine block durability testing, 
>> great discussions ensued taking several hours and it was agreed some 
>> pistons could be supplied direct from the assembly line (maybe one car was 
>> released without pistons? ). This is a good example of how Ford goes 
>> to great lengths with their testing (and probably other manufacturers do as 
>> well).
>>
>> Martin Scott
>>
>>  
>>
>> Sent from Mail  for 
>> Windows 10
>>
>>  
>>
>> *From: *Nigel Plant
>> *Sent: *25 March 2021 12:15
>> *To: *Quantum Owners Group
>> *Subject: *[Quantum Owners] 2L Zetec Blacktop Pistons
>>
>>  
>>
>> Probably one that's right up Jim's street.  Does anyone have the Ford 
>> specification for 2L Zetec blacktop pistons.  Need gudgeon pin diameter, 
>> compression height essentially all the key dimensions.  I have broken a 
>> piston on  my Xtreme turbo such that it needs reboring and cannot get any 
>> standard but oversize pistons.  Am also told that Nural and Mahle have no 
>> production plans to manufacture any.  I can get forged pistons and rods, 
>> which would be better performance wise but didn't want to drop compression 
>> to 8:1 or fork out £1200.  9:1 is my ideal for the power I want.  I have 
>> found a custom piston manufacture for forged pistons alone, but they 
>> require a piston (no problem) and the key specs.
>>
>>  
>>
>> For information, I have learnt one interesting point that people may find 
>> useful.  Although the silvertop and black top have different length conrods 
>> (ctr to ctr) and different compression heights.  The combined total of 
>> conrod length and compression height for the silvertop and blacktop are the 
>> same, meaning a set of silvertop conrods and pistons can be used to replace 
>> the blacktop ones.
>>
>>  
>>
>> Thanks for any help on the specs.
>>
>>  
>>
>> Nigel Plant
>>
>> -- 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to quantu...@googlegroups.com
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
>> quantumowner...@googlegroups.com
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>> http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en
>>  
>> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
>> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
>> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
>> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
>> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
>> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
>> within this or related message(s).
>> --- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to quantumowner...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/f7746385-3a1a-4d8c-b901-f6b726a67128n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>  
>> -- 
>> -- 
>> You received this 

Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon Ventilation

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

>>> through the door hinge holes, where the air is relatively dry. The front 
>>>> intakes, effectively within the wheel arch, drew not only moist air but 
>>>> water droplets when driving in even quite light rain. Other owners have 
>>>> fitted wing arch panels to shield the intakes from heavy tyre spray but I 
>>>> believe that to be ineffective in the more extreme wet conditions. You 
>>>> will 
>>>> be wondering whether the area of the hinge openings is sufficient, as was 
>>>> I, but although I was prepared to drill a couple of additional 30mm dia 
>>>> holes each side that has not been necessary. The area of the hinge holes 
>>>> is 
>>>> approximately equal to the area of the gap around the lower (below 
>>>> waistline) portion of the door and at 80cm2 each side appears to be 
>>>> sufficient.
>>>>  
>>>> B pillar vents -  mine has them but I believe the only real benefit is 
>>>> on the nearside, to prevent a build-up of petrol fume in the event of an 
>>>> imperfect seal in any of the filler pipe joins.
>>>>  
>>>> If you would like a chat to discuss further, my contact details are 
>>>> below.
>>>>  
>>>> HTH
>>>>  
>>>> Best regards
>>>> Bill 
>>>>
>>>> Bill Allison
>>>> Borders Group of Advanced Motorists
>>>> National Observer (Cars) 
>>>> www.facebook.com/BordersAdvancedMotorists
>>>>  
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The contents of this message, and any attachments, may include 
>>>> information that is private and confidential and should not be read by 
>>>> persons other than the intended addressee(s). IAM RoadSmart nor the sender 
>>>> accepts any responsibility for viruses and it is your responsibility to 
>>>> check the email and any attachments. If you have received this email in 
>>>> error, please inform the sender and delete the message from your computer. 
>>>> IAM RoadSmart is a trading name. IAM RoadSmart is a trademark. Charity 
>>>> number: 249002 (England and Wales) SC041201 (Scotland). Registered 
>>>> Address: 
>>>> 1 Albany Place, Hyde Way, Welwyn Garden City AL7 3BT. 
>>>>
>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>> On Friday, 19 March 2021, 18:26:38 GMT, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk 
>>>>  wrote: 
>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>> Just wondering what other saloon owners recommend to improve cabin 
>>>> ventilation? 
>>>>  
>>>> My saloon (late 1991 factory build) has matrix of holes drilled in each 
>>>> door pillar above striker. This is referenced in an old QSC tech bulletin 
>>>> (dated aug 1993). It also mentions that QSC are now using Astramax Van 
>>>> vents in same position  and Graham Lindley used vents in rear wing before 
>>>> rear lights.
>>>> So which, if any of these work?
>>>>  
>>>> Inside the door pillar on mine the hole matrix seems to have been 
>>>> covered with some semi airtight mesh (or what's left of it) - was this 
>>>> standard or someone trying to block off the holes becuase it does not work?
>>>>  
>>>> The same QSC bulletin also states that with any of these methods the A 
>>>> pillar tube alongside the windscreen must be blocked off with expanding 
>>>> builders foam to form a dam to stop water getting in? - I guess there was 
>>>> a 
>>>> concern that low pressure would cause water to be sucked in but not clear 
>>>> exactly where that was likely to occur. I have not yet checked my A 
>>>> pillars 
>>>> but maybe other owners may know more. 
>>>>  
>>>> John[image: 20210319_144841.jpg][image: 20210319_144935.jpg]
>>>>  
>>>> -- 
>>>> -- 
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>> Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group.
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>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
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>>>> "As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. 

Re: [Quantum Owners] Brake pipe flare

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

I think the Fiesta uses DIN/ISO - I have just been doing some saloon rear 
lines and braided hoses and used a DIN tool (Trident). If you do need to 
make the female concave type flares (ice cream cone shape) you will need 
the SAE type tool. I am pretty sure the SAE convex male flare will seal OK 
in a metric DIN concave seat as flare just deforms as the union is 
tightened (with copper or copper nickel pipes at least). 

John

On Friday, 19 March 2021 at 16:57:50 UTC Jim Hearne wrote:

> Ok, after some googleing, what i thought was a double flare is actually 
> called a bubble flare.
> So, the Quantums have mostly bubble flares but there are some double 
> flares on there as well.
>  
> Jim
>  
>  
> *From:* Jim Hearne 
> *Sent:* Friday, March 19, 2021 4:42 PM
> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com 
> *Subject:* Re: [Quantum Owners] Brake pipe flare
>  
> I think the Imperial and Metric brake pipe sizes are compatible, still 
> seems to be called 3/16”
> I’ve certainly not bought a specific imperial or metric tool, just a brake 
> pipe tool.
> Some of the joints are double flare so make sure your tool can do those.
>  
> Get a decent tool, the cheap ones are very hard to get proper flares.
>
> https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/halfords-brake-pipe-flaring-tool-kit-187982.html
> This sort always seem to be poor.
>  
> I had one similar to this for a while, it was very good as long as you 
> didn’t need to take the pipe out and put it back in again, it wouldn’t  
> always grip if you tried that.
> https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/hand-held-brake-pipe-flaring-tool
>  
> I’ve got one of these now, very good but pricy.
>
> https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/automotive/brake-and-clutch-tools/027250-hand-held-auto-brake-pipe-flaring-tool/p/ZT1120233X?utm_source=google_medium=cpc_campaign=dsa-generic_content=automotive=dsa-900928623826=Cj0KCQjwl9GCBhDvARIsAFunhsklmb5SPdAjX_N1DdZrRwc8GGPvfEIkIuFKdOlc4H5fTOkSKJSqI7caAsz1EALw_wcB
>  
> Jim
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> *From:* Derek Clews 
> *Sent:* Friday, March 19, 2021 4:28 PM
> *To:* Quantum Owners Club 
> *Cc:* Derek Clews 
> *Subject:* [Quantum Owners] Brake pipe flare
>  
> Hi All, 
>  
> Can anyone confirm the Q Coupe and 2+2 (i.e. Fiesta Mk2) Brake system?  I 
> want to get a flaring tool and think it is using a 4.75 DIN ISO 3/16" 
> Single Bubble Flare.  Is that correct?
>
> Cheers
>
> Derek
> -- 
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> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
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>  
> 
> .
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>  
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
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> 

[Quantum Owners] Re: Advise or help please

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Scary moment I bet! If car swapped ends under hard braking then sounds like 
brake bias is wrong - rears should never lock before fronts. Are you are 
using standard Fiesta MK2 axle & drums? - if so check bias (G) valve and 
its mounting angle. Also worth checking rear wheel cylinder size - smaller 
ones maybe worth trying. Fiiting an adjustable bias valve is another option 
but this requires some re-plumbing of brake system.

On Thursday, 4 March 2021 at 08:19:24 UTC gordonh...@gmail.com wrote:

> Strong little cars those 2+2's and did not intend to find out until under 
> hard braking on a dry road the back over took the front.  Ended up visiting 
> a ditch and hedge.  Still restored my faith in people, they stopped and 
> towed me out, drove home.
>
> On assessment, one bent tie rod, and lot broken glass and some excess 
> hawthorne hedge.
>
> So, does any one know what the glass is please?  Specifically
>
> Rear heated glass on the later hard top, bonded I believe.
> Front quarter light n/s
> Assume windscreen and passenger window are standard MK2 bits (believe 
> based on 83 ish car)
>
> the windscreen did intially survive, but the hedge got in on the way our, 
> guess it was being vindictive.
>
> Other things are the fibre glass top (hockey stick) on top of quarter 
> light is broken and front corner to hard top and not sitting flush at 
> moment.  Hard top should fibre glass ok and hockey stick may unless anyone 
> has one lying around.
>
> Passenger door jammed shut but got even gaps all round, so will look at on 
> a dry weeked.
>
> Thanks
>

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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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[Quantum Owners] Saloon Brakes

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

 I am in the process of overhauling brakes on saloon.  I read on the QOC 
web site that over the years there were different rear setups (G valve, 
cylinders) recommended by QSC via the build manual and subsequent technical 
bulletins.  Does naybody have copy of that info?

Saloon is a late 1991 factory build and currently has no G valve fitted to 
rear brakes - my guess is  this is how it was built looking at condition. 
The current rear axle / brakes look like a standard Fiesta Mk2 (30mm wide 
shoes). Haynes states XR2 had wider 38mm shoes but parts suppliers all seem 
to list XR2 shoes at 30/32mm width so not clear if   XR2 did actually use 
different wider shoes or drums. I have a spare complete rear axle from an 
XR2 race car so will check that when I can un bury it from the back of the 
garage (but it may well not be an orginal XR2 axle).

Before I took the car off the road for rebuild the brake performance was 
truly bad - even allowing for the fact it is old school it should have 
eperformed much better given the lower. weight of saloon versus Fiesta. As 
I work my way to the front of car I guess front brakes & servo will also 
need attention / upgrade (currently looks like XR2 vented disc setup).

So what setups can be recommened for the rear? Use G valve? Use different 
type of adjustable bias valve? Rear cylinder size mm? Shoe width size 
standard/XR2?

John


 

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entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
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Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

@Martin. I guess you adjusted your axle position by moving/modifying 
panhard rod mounts mounts? For me an adjustable rod (diy or buy) seems a 
better way to go particularly as I am likely to be experimenting with 
different rear springs which will necessitate tweaking the rod length.
John

On Tuesday, 3 November 2020 at 21:01:13 UTC 
susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:

> The panhard rod doesn’t need to adjustable, just needs ‘adjusting’ to the 
> correct length to get the axle central. I did this on mine, and the only 
> bushes I could get were poly, so they will be also fitted..
>
> martin
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *list...@liberator-systems.co.uk
> *Sent: *03 November 2020 12:40
> *To: *Quantum Owners Group
>
> *Subject: *Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware
>
>  
>
> £12 is certainly cheap for a BMW part! Will be interesting to see how this 
> looks when you get it all installed and of course how it performs. Pretty 
> sure I will need to follow a similar route  My rear (suspension that is) ) 
> needs a good working over - needs shorter springs (the ride height is way 
> too high - the rear has the 4*4 look which seems common on Quantum saloons) 
> - needs an adjustable panhard rod (axle is quite offset) - needs new 
> trailing arms and poly bushing all round
>
> On Monday, 2 November 2020 at 20:31:52 UTC dar...@siepka.me.uk wrote:
>
> So here is a picture showing a comparison of the xr2 Vs the 12mm E60 bar.
>
>  
>
> I found it by lots and lots of picture comparing on the net, then took a 
> gamble on the 12mm which was just £12 delivered!
>
>  
>
> I have designed some extension arms to go onto the original ends , this 
> will offer adjustability and reduce its torsion rating.
>
>  
>
> On Mon, 2 Nov 2020, 19:05 list...@liberator-systems.co.uk, <
> list...@liberator-systems.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Darren you seem to have a talent for finding and adapting parts ;-)...
>
> Can I ask how did you arrive at the BMW bar solution - trawling through 
> scrapyards or did you find some reference material regarding bar dimensions 
> on different cars?
>
> I started searching by just by looking at photos of various bars which 
> have similar shape/proportions. Mazda MX5 front was one candidate although 
> I haven't measured one up yet.
>
> John
>
>  
>
> On Monday, 2 November 2020 at 16:27:01 UTC 
> susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:
>
> That servo installation looks good – did it  need a new mounting bracket 
> and a change to the transfer tube?
>
> Martin 
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *Jim Hearne
> *Sent: *02 November 2020 15:35
> *To: *quantu...@googlegroups.com
> *Subject: *Fw: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware
>
>  
>
> *From:* susanandmartin 
>
> *Sent:* Monday, November 2, 2020 3:07 PM
>
> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com 
>
> *Subject:* RE: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware
>
>  
>
> It may be that later ones have the same part (but with a different part 
> number), but IIRC they changed to a twist beam with no separate ARB. 
> Anything over a few years old will possibly be difficult to obtain.
>
> BTW how did the Land Rover servo fit on the Q03?
>
> Martin
>
>  
>
> -- 
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
> To post to this group, send email to quantu...@googlegroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> quantumowner...@googlegroups.com
> For more options, visit this group at 
> http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en
>  
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
> within this or related message(s).
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>
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> https://groups.google.com/

Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

£12 is certainly cheap for a BMW part! Will be interesting to see how this 
looks when you get it all installed and of course how it performs. Pretty 
sure I will need to follow a similar route  My rear (suspension that is) ) 
needs a good working over - needs shorter springs (the ride height is way 
too high - the rear has the 4*4 look which seems common on Quantum saloons) 
- needs an adjustable panhard rod (axle is quite offset) - needs new 
trailing arms and poly bushing all round
On Monday, 2 November 2020 at 20:31:52 UTC dar...@siepka.me.uk wrote:

> So here is a picture showing a comparison of the xr2 Vs the 12mm E60 bar.
>
> I found it by lots and lots of picture comparing on the net, then took a 
> gamble on the 12mm which was just £12 delivered!
>
> I have designed some extension arms to go onto the original ends , this 
> will offer adjustability and reduce its torsion rating.
>
> On Mon, 2 Nov 2020, 19:05 list...@liberator-systems.co.uk, <
> list...@liberator-systems.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> Darren you seem to have a talent for finding and adapting parts ;-)...
>>
>> Can I ask how did you arrive at the BMW bar solution - trawling through 
>> scrapyards or did you find some reference material regarding bar dimensions 
>> on different cars?
>>
>> I started searching by just by looking at photos of various bars which 
>> have similar shape/proportions. Mazda MX5 front was one candidate although 
>> I haven't measured one up yet.
>>
>> John
>>
>> On Monday, 2 November 2020 at 16:27:01 UTC 
>> susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:
>>
>>> That servo installation looks good – did it  need a new mounting bracket 
>>> and a change to the transfer tube?
>>>
>>> Martin 
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>>> Windows 10
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> *From: *Jim Hearne
>>> *Sent: *02 November 2020 15:35
>>> *To: *quantu...@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject: *Fw: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> *From:* susanandmartin 
>>>
>>> *Sent:* Monday, November 2, 2020 3:07 PM
>>>
>>> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com 
>>>
>>> *Subject:* RE: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> It may be that later ones have the same part (but with a different part 
>>> number), but IIRC they changed to a twist beam with no separate ARB. 
>>> Anything over a few years old will possibly be difficult to obtain.
>>>
>>> BTW how did the Land Rover servo fit on the Q03?
>>>
>>> Martin
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group.
>>> To post to this group, send email to quantu...@googlegroups.com
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
>>> quantumowner...@googlegroups.com
>>> For more options, visit this group at 
>>> http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en
>>>  
>>> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
>>> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
>>> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
>>> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
>>> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
>>> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
>>> within this or related message(s).
>>> --- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to quantumowner...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/35398E77B2464951B153E19BF06887F7%40JimQuad
>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/35398E77B2464951B153E19BF06887F7%40JimQuad?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>> -- 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to quantu

Re: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware

[list...@liberator-systems.co.uk]

Darren you seem to have a talent for finding and adapting parts ;-)...

Can I ask how did you arrive at the BMW bar solution - trawling through 
scrapyards or did you find some reference material regarding bar dimensions 
on different cars?

I started searching by just by looking at photos of various bars which have 
similar shape/proportions. Mazda MX5 front was one candidate although I 
haven't measured one up yet.

John

On Monday, 2 November 2020 at 16:27:01 UTC 
susanan...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk wrote:

> That servo installation looks good – did it  need a new mounting bracket 
> and a change to the transfer tube?
>
> Martin 
>
>  
>
> Sent from Mail  for 
> Windows 10
>
>  
>
> *From: *Jim Hearne
> *Sent: *02 November 2020 15:35
> *To: *quantu...@googlegroups.com
> *Subject: *Fw: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware
>
>  
>
> *From:* susanandmartin 
>
> *Sent:* Monday, November 2, 2020 3:07 PM
>
> *To:* quantu...@googlegroups.com 
>
> *Subject:* RE: [Quantum Owners] Saloon rear ARB mounting hardware
>
>  
>
> It may be that later ones have the same part (but with a different part 
> number), but IIRC they changed to a twist beam with no separate ARB. 
> Anything over a few years old will possibly be difficult to obtain.
>
> BTW how did the Land Rover servo fit on the Q03?
>
> Martin
>
>  
>
> -- 
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
> To post to this group, send email to quantu...@googlegroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> quantumowner...@googlegroups.com
> For more options, visit this group at 
> http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en
>  
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As 
> Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
> within this or related message(s).
> --- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Quantum Owners Group" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to quantumowner...@googlegroups.com.
>
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/quantumowners/35398E77B2464951B153E19BF06887F7%40JimQuad
>  
> 
> .
>
>  
>

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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
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