[RBW] Re: More Problems with Gravel

2009-06-30 Thread PATRICK MOORE

On 6/29/09, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:

 Well.  The consensus seems to be that it's my fault.  This is not
 exactly what I was looking for.  Doesn't anyone want to suggest
 special gravel wheels or, even better, a new frame of the country
 variety?  I mean I fell twice.  Should be some equipment here that I
 could explain to my wife is critical to my safety.   Thanks though for
 the input.
 GeorgeS

Hell, I'd be annoyed too if I had a perfectly good medical reason to
buy a new bike, or at least new tires, and everyone told me, Don't
bother, it's your technique! I say, run with it.

I don't ride on gravel a great deal, but I do ride in sand, and
insofar as sand is like gravel (it's just a lot smaller -- juust
kidding) in that it's slippery, I am a gravel expert. And so, what I
recommend is a 60 mm WTB knobby -- I know and love the Exiwolfs and
the Weirwolfs -- one a Snowcat rim; this will give you a tire at least
2 1/2 inches wide that you can safely ride at 15/18, at least if you
are not a lot more than 170 lb. Technique does play a role, though, if
you wish to use a road tire in this size, like the Big Apples.

And forget little 650b wheels; those are for the little people. Use
700c wheels. They float over small bumps and give much better traction
and float.

Only half my tongue is in my cheek. (The other half is in my pocket.)
I really love my Monocog 29er set up as a on/off road allrounder with
said BAs and Snowcats, drops, fenders, and a modest 63 gear. Not
Rivendellian, but unfortunately the only Riv that comes close, the
Bomdadil, only takes skinny tires. (It does have vertical dropouts,
but you could use an eccentric bb.)

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: More Problems with Gravel

2009-06-30 Thread PATRICK MOORE

On 6/30/09, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 On 6/29/09, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:

 Well.  The consensus seems to be that it's my fault.  This is not
 exactly what I was looking for.  Doesn't anyone want to suggest
 special gravel wheels or, even better, a new frame of the country
 variety?  I mean I fell twice.  Should be some equipment here that I
 could explain to my wife is critical to my safety.   Thanks though for
 the input.
 GeorgeS

 Hell, I'd be annoyed too if I had a perfectly good medical reason to
 buy a new bike, or at least new tires, and everyone told me, Don't
 bother, it's your technique! I say, run with it.

 I don't ride on gravel a great deal, but I do ride in sand, and
 insofar as sand is like gravel (it's just a lot smaller -- juust
 kidding) in that it's slippery, I am a gravel expert. And so, what I
 recommend is a 60 mm WTB knobby -- I know and love the Exiwolfs and
 the Weirwolfs -- one a Snowcat rim; this will give you a tire at least
 2 1/2 inches wide that you can safely ride at 15/18, at least if you
 are not a lot more than 170 lb. Technique does play a role, though, if
 you wish to use a road tire in this size, like the Big Apples.

 And forget little 650b wheels; those are for the little people. Use
 700c wheels. They float over small bumps and give much better traction
 and float.

 Only half my tongue is in my cheek. (The other half is in my pocket.)
 I really love my Monocog 29er set up as a on/off road allrounder with
 said BAs and Snowcats, drops, fenders, and a modest 63 gear. Not
 Rivendellian, but unfortunately the only Riv that comes close, the
 Bomdadil, only takes skinny tires. (It does have vertical dropouts,
 but you could use an eccentric bb.)

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com



-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: seat bag support

2009-06-30 Thread fenderbender

If you guy's have a evening or two to spare check out Jobst Brandt's
great photos from 40 years of touring the alps.
http://www.trentobike.org/Countries/Europe/Tour_Reports/Tour_of_the_Alps/Gallery/
It's a bit hard to tell but it seem his friend Bill Robertson has a
nifty diy bag stand off that connects to the seat clamp:
http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/alps_photos/i41.html
http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/alps_photos/f27.html

Anyone could fill me in on the details of his gizmo cuz I've been
wondering for years?


On 29 Juni, 00:19, Roger and Carolyn SKALLERUD rcska...@msn.com
wrote:
 I need a seatbag support to level my Carradice Nelson and Baggins Little Joe 
 on a Bleriot and Riv.  When they are attached to the seat and seatpost stuff 
 keeps falling out of the pockets on the Carradice, I need to level it up, 
 what works best?
 Roger Skallerud
 South Dakota
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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam and Fenders

2009-06-30 Thread Angus

I did the quick release clips thing like Jay.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16951...@n08/3476231554/sizes/o/

I have removed the rear wheel (most recently to add a fixed cog) by
unclipping the fender stays from the quick release clips.  When the
chain is in the small chainring, the axle is at the very end of the
slots anyway, it's only another 1/2 inch till it is free.

Angus

On Jun 29, 10:57 pm, R Gonet richard.go...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Jay:  I like that idea.  Have you actually tried it?  I'm wondering if
 you can pull the fender up and back enough to release the wheel, given
 that the fender is attached to the seat stay bridge.

 On Jun 29, 9:13 pm, J. Burkhalter burk...@yahoo.com wrote:



  Round up another pair of the black plastic quick release clips that
  came with the SKS fender set (the ones intended for use on the front
  fender stays).  They'll allow you to pop the rear stays out and remove
  the wheel.   RBW probably has them, but you could try your LBS
  first.

  hope this helps,
  -Jay
  Asheville, NC

  On Jun 29, 6:22 pm, R Gonet richard.go...@earthlink.net wrote:

   I've installed SKS fenders on my Quickbeam and now I have to detach
   the rear fender stays to remove the rear wheel, either to reverse the
   wheel or to fix a flat.  Is there any way around having to do this
   and, if not, does anyone have any tricks to make the procedure less
   time consuming?- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: More Problems with Gravel

2009-06-30 Thread Angus

George,

Jan Heine and Jim Edgar make some very good points.

I spent five years doing cyclocross (on a Rivendell) and riding narrow
tires on loose surfaces took practice.  Lots of feeling the bike
sliding around under you.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16951...@n08/1992613270/

I think it's 90+% rider, if you want an equipment upgrade, wider tires
are usually a bit easier in loose surfaces than skinny ones...IMHO.

Angus

On Jun 29, 4:56 am, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:
 Last week I posted a question about tires for gravel.  Thanks for the
 response.  I've gone with the consensus and ordered a pair of Pasela's
 w/o TG.
 Since then, I've had two kind of scary falls, both in exactly the same
 situation - fast descent on dirt/gravel road with sweeping right turn
 at the bottom.  In both cases there was loose stuff in the turn and my
 rear wheel just slid out and I was down.  Got some road burn but no
 real damage other than to my dignity.  Is it possible this is the
 result of having the wrong tires, or (what seems more likely) I just
 don't know how to handle this situation.  I don't like the idea of
 just riding the brake every time I start going down - takes some of
 the fun out of it.
 GeorgeS
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[RBW] Re: More Problems with Gravel

2009-06-30 Thread palincss

Quoting JimD rasterd...@comcast.net:

 Steve,
 What fenders are those on your Saluki with the Hetres?
 thanks,
 JimD

58mm Honjo fluted.




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[RBW] Re: More Problems with Gravel

2009-06-30 Thread JoelMatthews

 Only half my tongue is in my cheek. (The other half is in my pocket.)
 I really love my Monocog 29er set up as a on/off road allrounder with
 said BAs and Snowcats, drops, fenders, and a modest 63 gear. Not
 Rivendellian, but unfortunately the only Riv that comes close, the
 Bomdadil, only takes skinny tires. (It does have vertical dropouts,
 but you could use an eccentric bb.)

How tall are you?

At just under 6' 0 I have always ridden 700s.  When I started reading
about BAs, I had to try them.  I set up one of my touring bikes with
them.  Everything I read about BAs - comfort, handling, smooth ride,
surprisingly low rolling resistance - was right on the mark.  On the
other hand, whenever I ride the bike I feel like I am on one of those
old gas lamp lighters.

So I am now definitely in Steve's camp.  The ideal 650b design mandate
are bikes built to accomodate big honking 50mm and 60mm tires for
people probably up to 6'2 or so.  I hope Schwalbe starts thinking
about making a 650b Big Apple.

On Jun 30, 3:29 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 On 6/29/09, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:



  Well.  The consensus seems to be that it's my fault.  This is not
  exactly what I was looking for.  Doesn't anyone want to suggest
  special gravel wheels or, even better, a new frame of the country
  variety?  I mean I fell twice.  Should be some equipment here that I
  could explain to my wife is critical to my safety.   Thanks though for
  the input.
  GeorgeS

 Hell, I'd be annoyed too if I had a perfectly good medical reason to
 buy a new bike, or at least new tires, and everyone told me, Don't
 bother, it's your technique! I say, run with it.

 I don't ride on gravel a great deal, but I do ride in sand, and
 insofar as sand is like gravel (it's just a lot smaller -- juust
 kidding) in that it's slippery, I am a gravel expert. And so, what I
 recommend is a 60 mm WTB knobby -- I know and love the Exiwolfs and
 the Weirwolfs -- one a Snowcat rim; this will give you a tire at least
 2 1/2 inches wide that you can safely ride at 15/18, at least if you
 are not a lot more than 170 lb. Technique does play a role, though, if
 you wish to use a road tire in this size, like the Big Apples.

 And forget little 650b wheels; those are for the little people. Use
 700c wheels. They float over small bumps and give much better traction
 and float.

 Only half my tongue is in my cheek. (The other half is in my pocket.)
 I really love my Monocog 29er set up as a on/off road allrounder with
 said BAs and Snowcats, drops, fenders, and a modest 63 gear. Not
 Rivendellian, but unfortunately the only Riv that comes close, the
 Bomdadil, only takes skinny tires. (It does have vertical dropouts,
 but you could use an eccentric bb.)

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com
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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Times magazine #2

2009-06-30 Thread Elfardo

I have the first issue. I'll give it a big fat it's ok. Better than
Bicycling. Commuter based content for the most part. Kind of a more
mainstream Urban Velo minus the fixie fixation. Must not have made a
huge impression on me as, until your post, I'd forgotten it existed.
Guess I'll check out the current issue.

I doubt I'll subscribe. Probably just pick it up if an article looks
interesting.

Still wishing for a Dirt Rag version of the country bike style of
riding. Maybe too small a niche, but it would be cool if someone would
integrate more of that type of content into an existing mag.

Clif
http://hardmenwithsoftbellies.wordpress.com/


On Jun 30, 5:52 am, carnerda...@bellsouth.net
carnerda...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 If I missed discussion of this, I apologize.  Did not find it in the
 archives.  I was recently handed a copy of above magazine.  On the
 cover is a Rivendell Atlantis, but I can find no mention of it
 inside.  RBW has
 an advertisement.  I assume it is a spin-off of Dirt Rag and at this
 point is a trial run.
 Any subscribers on the list?  Is it worth the $10 subscription?  Any
 opinions about whether it will survive,or should?
 David
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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Times magazine #2

2009-06-30 Thread EricP

I'd check with them.  Issue #2 came out about a month ago.  Could be
your subscription was not processed in time for it.

I'm a subscriber.  Like it enough.  Whether it will make it long term
remains to be seen.  I'm withholding judgement.  Definitely not the
same vein as Bicycle Quarterly or the Reader.

Hopefully they'll feature Rivendell in the future.  The company has
been covered a few times in Dirt Rag.  Still, the new magazine would
be great for a review of the Sam Hillborne.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN


On Jun 30, 8:54 am, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I paid the small subscriber fee of $10 about 6 weeks ago. Still no
 BTimes to my door. Have other folks actually gotten a mag when they
 subscribed?

 On Jun 30, 4:52 am, carnerda...@bellsouth.net



 carnerda...@bellsouth.net wrote:
  If I missed discussion of this, I apologize.  Did not find it in the
  archives.  I was recently handed a copy of above magazine.  On the
  cover is a Rivendell Atlantis, but I can find no mention of it
  inside.  RBW has
  an advertisement.  I assume it is a spin-off of Dirt Rag and at this
  point is a trial run.
  Any subscribers on the list?  Is it worth the $10 subscription?  Any
  opinions about whether it will survive,or should?
  David- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: More Problems with Gravel

2009-06-30 Thread PATRICK MOORE

I'm a startling 5'10 in bare feet on a level, hard surface.

I've not ridden 584, and my comments about it were largely facetious.
I went from 60 mm Big Apples in the 559 size (26 3/4 inches diam) to
ditto on 722s (29 1/4) and the float over sand, the cush over, say,
washboard, and the traction when cornering ,at least on pavement, were
very noticeably better. (I say on pavement because, with such tires
on dirt, you can't corner hard, I prefer them nonetheless for their
easy rolling on pavement, this being an all rounder type of bike.) I
extrapolate that 722 would also be better in this regard than 584,
tho' presumeable not by as much.

On 6/30/09, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

 Only half my tongue is in my cheek. (The other half is in my pocket.)
 I really love my Monocog 29er set up as a on/off road allrounder with
 said BAs and Snowcats, drops, fenders, and a modest 63 gear. Not
 Rivendellian, but unfortunately the only Riv that comes close, the
 Bomdadil, only takes skinny tires. (It does have vertical dropouts,
 but you could use an eccentric bb.)

 How tall are you?

 At just under 6' 0 I have always ridden 700s.  When I started reading
 about BAs, I had to try them.  I set up one of my touring bikes with
 them.  Everything I read about BAs - comfort, handling, smooth ride,
 surprisingly low rolling resistance - was right on the mark.  On the
 other hand, whenever I ride the bike I feel like I am on one of those
 old gas lamp lighters.

 So I am now definitely in Steve's camp.  The ideal 650b design mandate
 are bikes built to accomodate big honking 50mm and 60mm tires for
 people probably up to 6'2 or so.  I hope Schwalbe starts thinking
 about making a 650b Big Apple.

 On Jun 30, 3:29 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 On 6/29/09, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:



  Well.  The consensus seems to be that it's my fault.  This is not
  exactly what I was looking for.  Doesn't anyone want to suggest
  special gravel wheels or, even better, a new frame of the country
  variety?  I mean I fell twice.  Should be some equipment here that I
  could explain to my wife is critical to my safety.   Thanks though for
  the input.
  GeorgeS

 Hell, I'd be annoyed too if I had a perfectly good medical reason to
 buy a new bike, or at least new tires, and everyone told me, Don't
 bother, it's your technique! I say, run with it.

 I don't ride on gravel a great deal, but I do ride in sand, and
 insofar as sand is like gravel (it's just a lot smaller -- juust
 kidding) in that it's slippery, I am a gravel expert. And so, what I
 recommend is a 60 mm WTB knobby -- I know and love the Exiwolfs and
 the Weirwolfs -- one a Snowcat rim; this will give you a tire at least
 2 1/2 inches wide that you can safely ride at 15/18, at least if you
 are not a lot more than 170 lb. Technique does play a role, though, if
 you wish to use a road tire in this size, like the Big Apples.

 And forget little 650b wheels; those are for the little people. Use
 700c wheels. They float over small bumps and give much better traction
 and float.

 Only half my tongue is in my cheek. (The other half is in my pocket.)
 I really love my Monocog 29er set up as a on/off road allrounder with
 said BAs and Snowcats, drops, fenders, and a modest 63 gear. Not
 Rivendellian, but unfortunately the only Riv that comes close, the
 Bomdadil, only takes skinny tires. (It does have vertical dropouts,
 but you could use an eccentric bb.)

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com
 



-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Tubus rack and SKS fenders

2009-06-30 Thread EricP

Been thinking of putting a Tubus Cargo rack on my Hillborne for some
S24O or maybe even a mini-tour.  When trying things out last night,
appears the rack stays hit the fender stays.  Checking the Rivendell
website, it appears Grant bent the fender stays on his Atlantis to
avoid this issue.

Is that probably the best method?  Nothing else I tried seems to
work.  Checked putting the rack on the lower dropout braze-ons and the
fenders on the higher.  Nope.

My other option - just keep the Nitto R-14 top rack on and getting the
Sackville Large saddlebag.  My Carradice Nelson just seems a bit small
for this.  But I did something similar with the Atlantis last year.

Anyone have some good advice?

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN
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[RBW] Re: Tubus rack and SKS fenders

2009-06-30 Thread Seth Vidal

On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 10:19 AM, EricPericpl...@aol.com wrote:

 Been thinking of putting a Tubus Cargo rack on my Hillborne for some
 S24O or maybe even a mini-tour.  When trying things out last night,
 appears the rack stays hit the fender stays.  Checking the Rivendell
 website, it appears Grant bent the fender stays on his Atlantis to
 avoid this issue.

 Is that probably the best method?  Nothing else I tried seems to
 work.  Checked putting the rack on the lower dropout braze-ons and the
 fenders on the higher.  Nope.

 My other option - just keep the Nitto R-14 top rack on and getting the
 Sackville Large saddlebag.  My Carradice Nelson just seems a bit small
 for this.  But I did something similar with the Atlantis last year.

 Anyone have some good advice?


presta valve nuts. Space the rack out 1 or 2 presta nuts width.
that'll let the fender stays through.

worked for me.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Tubus rack and SKS fenders

2009-06-30 Thread Patrick in VT

use some spacers to space the rack out and clear the fender stays.
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[RBW] A new blog.

2009-06-30 Thread Cycletex

Just what this world needs. A new bike blog.

http://hardmenwithsoftbellies.wordpress.com/

Most posts composed aboard my Quickbeam while slowly going mad from
the sound of granite crushing underneath a pair of paselas.

I hope you enjoy,
Clif Wright

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[RBW] Re: More Problems with Gravel

2009-06-30 Thread JoelMatthews

Do you have the BAs on a road bike frame or a mountain bike frame?

I could probably do alright on a 29er, as MTB geometry puts the rider
somewhat lower in any event.

When I first put the BAs on the road frame, I tried lowering the seat.
On my first ride it occurred to me the higher tires do not change the
distance between the seat and pedals.  I guess I could have replaced
the 170 crank with 172.5 or 175.  That sort of alchemy more frequently
leads to sore knees than not, though.

On Jun 30, 9:13 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm a startling 5'10 in bare feet on a level, hard surface.

 I've not ridden 584, and my comments about it were largely facetious.
 I went from 60 mm Big Apples in the 559 size (26 3/4 inches diam) to
 ditto on 722s (29 1/4) and the float over sand, the cush over, say,
 washboard, and the traction when cornering ,at least on pavement, were
 very noticeably better. (I say on pavement because, with such tires
 on dirt, you can't corner hard, I prefer them nonetheless for their
 easy rolling on pavement, this being an all rounder type of bike.) I
 extrapolate that 722 would also be better in this regard than 584,
 tho' presumeable not by as much.

 On 6/30/09, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:







  Only half my tongue is in my cheek. (The other half is in my pocket.)
  I really love my Monocog 29er set up as a on/off road allrounder with
  said BAs and Snowcats, drops, fenders, and a modest 63 gear. Not
  Rivendellian, but unfortunately the only Riv that comes close, the
  Bomdadil, only takes skinny tires. (It does have vertical dropouts,
  but you could use an eccentric bb.)

  How tall are you?

  At just under 6' 0 I have always ridden 700s.  When I started reading
  about BAs, I had to try them.  I set up one of my touring bikes with
  them.  Everything I read about BAs - comfort, handling, smooth ride,
  surprisingly low rolling resistance - was right on the mark.  On the
  other hand, whenever I ride the bike I feel like I am on one of those
  old gas lamp lighters.

  So I am now definitely in Steve's camp.  The ideal 650b design mandate
  are bikes built to accomodate big honking 50mm and 60mm tires for
  people probably up to 6'2 or so.  I hope Schwalbe starts thinking
  about making a 650b Big Apple.

  On Jun 30, 3:29 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  On 6/29/09, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:

   Well.  The consensus seems to be that it's my fault.  This is not
   exactly what I was looking for.  Doesn't anyone want to suggest
   special gravel wheels or, even better, a new frame of the country
   variety?  I mean I fell twice.  Should be some equipment here that I
   could explain to my wife is critical to my safety.   Thanks though for
   the input.
   GeorgeS

  Hell, I'd be annoyed too if I had a perfectly good medical reason to
  buy a new bike, or at least new tires, and everyone told me, Don't
  bother, it's your technique! I say, run with it.

  I don't ride on gravel a great deal, but I do ride in sand, and
  insofar as sand is like gravel (it's just a lot smaller -- juust
  kidding) in that it's slippery, I am a gravel expert. And so, what I
  recommend is a 60 mm WTB knobby -- I know and love the Exiwolfs and
  the Weirwolfs -- one a Snowcat rim; this will give you a tire at least
  2 1/2 inches wide that you can safely ride at 15/18, at least if you
  are not a lot more than 170 lb. Technique does play a role, though, if
  you wish to use a road tire in this size, like the Big Apples.

  And forget little 650b wheels; those are for the little people. Use
  700c wheels. They float over small bumps and give much better traction
  and float.

  Only half my tongue is in my cheek. (The other half is in my pocket.)
  I really love my Monocog 29er set up as a on/off road allrounder with
  said BAs and Snowcats, drops, fenders, and a modest 63 gear. Not
  Rivendellian, but unfortunately the only Riv that comes close, the
  Bomdadil, only takes skinny tires. (It does have vertical dropouts,
  but you could use an eccentric bb.)

  --
  Patrick Moore
  Albuquerque, NM
  Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: Tubus rack and SKS fenders

2009-06-30 Thread JoelMatthews

I am trying to remember which Tubus I had on a camper I sold
recently.  I was able to attach the SKS to the eyelet on the rack
itself.  You must have a different model, as I seem to recall it was
pretty obvious.

On Jun 30, 9:19 am, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 Been thinking of putting a Tubus Cargo rack on my Hillborne for some
 S24O or maybe even a mini-tour.  When trying things out last night,
 appears the rack stays hit the fender stays.  Checking the Rivendell
 website, it appears Grant bent the fender stays on his Atlantis to
 avoid this issue.

 Is that probably the best method?  Nothing else I tried seems to
 work.  Checked putting the rack on the lower dropout braze-ons and the
 fenders on the higher.  Nope.

 My other option - just keep the Nitto R-14 top rack on and getting the
 Sackville Large saddlebag.  My Carradice Nelson just seems a bit small
 for this.  But I did something similar with the Atlantis last year.

 Anyone have some good advice?

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN
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[RBW] Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread zrainryder

Just picked up an unusual bike on Craig's list (Serotta Hors
Categorie). Even though its not a Rivendell, it does have an extended
head tube and the curved seat stays really work in smoothing out road
noise.  It came with Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed groupo (12-28) and a
compact crank (34-50).  Not as nice as my Rambrouillet  Bleriot that
have Sugino triples (26-36-48) and sram 11-34 cassettes (which are
nine speeds).  Ok, the main objective I have is to get lower gearing
on the new bike.  I was thinking of putting a sram mountain cassette
on the back (11-34) and changing out the campy real derailleur for a
long cage xt.  This would give me a low gear ratio of about 27 (700c
tires).  Will this work? I know most bike technicians  say keep with
one manufacturer...I hope this will work, because then I will have an
expanded range (by increasing the largest COG from 48 to 50) while
eliminating the granny gear.  If this won't work, then I can always
exchange the crank, bottom bracket, groupo, brakes etc. to match my
other bikes.  I'm hoping to avoid that.
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[RBW] Rivendell on Seattle to Portland

2009-06-30 Thread Frank

Is anyone on the list planning to ride STP this year?  I'm going down
in two days this year on my Saluki, and may end up riding with another
Bleriot rider.  We'll be overnighting in Centralia at the halfway
point, so if anyone has correlative plans and would like to meet up,
it would be good to say hey face to face.
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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread JoelMatthews

My camper has a Campy front der and crank, Maxi-Car hubs and Shimano
freewheel.  Everything works fine.  Of course, I use friction
shifters, not index.  Index shifters may get confused when you mix and
match.

Isn't it amazing how technological advances force customer loyalty?
You would almost think that was the reason for the 'advance' and not
improved experience for the rider.  Nah, manufacturers would never
dream of such a thing.

On Jun 30, 10:01 am, zrainryder zdree...@gmail.com wrote:
 Just picked up an unusual bike on Craig's list (Serotta Hors
 Categorie). Even though its not a Rivendell, it does have an extended
 head tube and the curved seat stays really work in smoothing out road
 noise.  It came with Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed groupo (12-28) and a
 compact crank (34-50).  Not as nice as my Rambrouillet  Bleriot that
 have Sugino triples (26-36-48) and sram 11-34 cassettes (which are
 nine speeds).  Ok, the main objective I have is to get lower gearing
 on the new bike.  I was thinking of putting a sram mountain cassette
 on the back (11-34) and changing out the campy real derailleur for a
 long cage xt.  This would give me a low gear ratio of about 27 (700c
 tires).  Will this work? I know most bike technicians  say keep with
 one manufacturer...I hope this will work, because then I will have an
 expanded range (by increasing the largest COG from 48 to 50) while
 eliminating the granny gear.  If this won't work, then I can always
 exchange the crank, bottom bracket, groupo, brakes etc. to match my
 other bikes.  I'm hoping to avoid that.
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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam and Fenders

2009-06-30 Thread sanjoser

well, I'm going to go against convention here and recommend
taking the fenders off. I managed to figure out how to drop the
rear wheel to fix a flat, but I'm sticking with a fenderless QB.
it was a liberating experience, and I'm thinking of removing the
fenders from my atlantis now.

best
ts


On Jun 30, 4:23 am, J. Burkhalter burk...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Jun 29, 11:57 pm, R Gonet richard.go...@earthlink.net wrote:

  Jay:  I like that idea.  Have you actually tried it?  I'm wondering if
  you can pull the fender up and back enough to release the wheel, given
  that the fender is attached to the seat stay bridge.

 Yep.  Works just fine.  It's hard to beat those SKS fenders in the
 user friendliness category.

 -Jay
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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread Brewster Fong



On Jun 30, 8:01 am, zrainryder zdree...@gmail.com wrote:
 Just picked up an unusual bike on Craig's list (Serotta Hors
 Categorie). Even though its not a Rivendell, it does have an extended
 head tube and the curved seat stays really work in smoothing out road
 noise.  It came with Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed groupo (12-28) and a
 compact crank (34-50).  Not as nice as my Rambrouillet  Bleriot that
 have Sugino triples (26-36-48) and sram 11-34 cassettes (which are
 nine speeds).  Ok, the main objective I have is to get lower gearing
 on the new bike.  I was thinking of putting a sram mountain cassette
 on the back (11-34) and changing out the campy real derailleur for a
 long cage xt.  This would give me a low gear ratio of about 27 (700c
 tires).  Will this work? I know most bike technicians  say keep with
 one manufacturer...I hope this will work, because then I will have an
 expanded range (by increasing the largest COG from 48 to 50) while
 eliminating the granny gear.  If this won't work, then I can always
 exchange the crank, bottom bracket, groupo, brakes etc. to match my
 other bikes.  I'm hoping to avoid that.

Mixing Campy and Shimano is possible. However, you appear to also want
to mix 9 and 10 speed gearing. Since you're using Campy ergo, then frt
der is a non-issue, unlike Shimano where you need to be specific as to
what is used.

Usually, its recommended to match your rear shifter with your rear
der. So, using Campy Veloce 10 spd rear with Campy rear der over 10
cogs is a given. However, since you're looking to use a XT long cage
rear der, it appears you now want to go from 10 spd to 9 spd. It may
work.

You'll want to look at the Hubbub article on mixing Campy 10 ergo with
Shimano 9 by clamping the cable in the opposite position:

http://www.hubbub.com/articles_ergopower.html


You shouldmay look at this chart too:

http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946


I use an older 2000 Campy 9 ergo (pre-2001 geometry) and a 2006 Campy
9 rear der with Shimano 9 cassette/hubs and Sram 9 chain with NO
PROBLEM. Mixing and match 9 works fine for me. I have a friend who
uses a DA 8 rear der with Campy 9 ergo and has no problem shifting 9
spd.

Finally, If none of the above work, check Jtek shiftmate to see if
they offer something that might help. Good Luck!
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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread Brewster Fong



On Jun 30, 8:29 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

 Isn't it amazing how technological advances force customer loyalty?
 You would almost think that was the reason for the 'advance' and not
 improved experience for the rider.  Nah, manufacturers would never
 dream of such a thing.

I don't know, is it reasonable to expect mfrs to design their index
shifting to match other companies equipment?  There's no reason for
someone like Shimano to design their components to match Campy or visa
versa. Of course, this could lead to goofy things like proprietary
chainrings i.e., Campy's carbon compact cranks, especially those
with one hidden chainring bolt, seem to come with 4 bolts at 110mm and
the fifth bolt at 112mm!

Of course, there are work-arounds. Sometimes, clunky, but do-able. For
example, for Campy rings that come with the goofy 110/112bcd, Andy
Muzi at Yellow Jersey has posted in another forum that all you need to
do is grind down some of the chainring hole to make it fit a 110bcd.
Further, you can make Campy and Shimano indexing work by mounting the
der cable in the opposite direction.

Finally, I do agree that mfrs want customers loyalty. There going to
design their components to work seamlessly. The fact that its
incompatible with another mfr's system is probably not a
consideration. Good Luck!
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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread Aaron Thomas

I find it hard to believe that your current 50/34x12-28 setup doesn't
give you low enough gearing. I have a 50/36 with 12-27 and it gets me
just about anywhere. Perhaps you should try your new ride out for a
couple of months before tinkering. You might find that it gets you
where you want to go just fine, and you'll save money and time.

But be this as it may, if you are dead set on tinkering, Shiftmate is
probably the quickest and easiest solution, assuming you already have
the XT rear derailleur. Otherwise you can just get a Campy mid or long
cage derailleur instead of the XT and nix the Shiftmate altogether.

But there is one caveat: you didn't mention what hubs you have. If you
have Campy hubs, it may be a moot point. A SRAM cassette won't fit on
a Campy hub. And as far as I know neither Campy nor Miche makes a
Campagnolo-splined 11-32 mtn cassette. I believe the lowest
Campagnolo-splined cassette is a 13-29. However, you might check
American Classic. They might still make a Campy-splined mtn cassette
in the 11-32 or 34 range.


On Jun 30, 9:45 am, Brewster Fong bfd...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Jun 30, 8:01 am, zrainryder zdree...@gmail.com wrote:



  Just picked up an unusual bike on Craig's list (Serotta Hors
  Categorie). Even though its not a Rivendell, it does have an extended
  head tube and the curved seat stays really work in smoothing out road
  noise.  It came with Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed groupo (12-28) and a
  compact crank (34-50).  Not as nice as my Rambrouillet  Bleriot that
  have Sugino triples (26-36-48) and sram 11-34 cassettes (which are
  nine speeds).  Ok, the main objective I have is to get lower gearing
  on the new bike.  I was thinking of putting a sram mountain cassette
  on the back (11-34) and changing out the campy real derailleur for a
  long cage xt.  This would give me a low gear ratio of about 27 (700c
  tires).  Will this work? I know most bike technicians  say keep with
  one manufacturer...I hope this will work, because then I will have an
  expanded range (by increasing the largest COG from 48 to 50) while
  eliminating the granny gear.  If this won't work, then I can always
  exchange the crank, bottom bracket, groupo, brakes etc. to match my
  other bikes.  I'm hoping to avoid that.

 Mixing Campy and Shimano is possible. However, you appear to also want
 to mix 9 and 10 speed gearing. Since you're using Campy ergo, then frt
 der is a non-issue, unlike Shimano where you need to be specific as to
 what is used.

 Usually, its recommended to match your rear shifter with your rear
 der. So, using Campy Veloce 10 spd rear with Campy rear der over 10
 cogs is a given. However, since you're looking to use a XT long cage
 rear der, it appears you now want to go from 10 spd to 9 spd. It may
 work.

 You'll want to look at the Hubbub article on mixing Campy 10 ergo with
 Shimano 9 by clamping the cable in the opposite position:

 http://www.hubbub.com/articles_ergopower.html

 You shouldmay look at this chart too:

 http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946

 I use an older 2000 Campy 9 ergo (pre-2001 geometry) and a 2006 Campy
 9 rear der with Shimano 9 cassette/hubs and Sram 9 chain with NO
 PROBLEM. Mixing and match 9 works fine for me. I have a friend who
 uses a DA 8 rear der with Campy 9 ergo and has no problem shifting 9
 spd.

 Finally, If none of the above work, check Jtek shiftmate to see if
 they offer something that might help. Good Luck!
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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread JoelMatthews

 Finally, I do agree that mfrs want customers loyalty. There going to
 design their components to work seamlessly. The fact that its
 incompatible with another mfr's system is probably not a
 consideration. Good Luck!

In the good old days of friction shifting, manufacturers won customer
loyalty by trying to make ders, shifters and freewheels that looked
and worked better than the competition.  The consumer enjoyed the
ability to mix and match according to personal need, budget and
aesthetics.

Now the big two make proprietary systems which limit the consumers'
ability to make the bike as they want.
I guess in one sense you could call this progress.  I really wonder
for whom.
On Jun 30, 12:22 pm, Brewster Fong bfd...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Jun 30, 8:29 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

  Isn't it amazing how technological advances force customer loyalty?
  You would almost think that was the reason for the 'advance' and not
  improved experience for the rider.  Nah, manufacturers would never
  dream of such a thing.

 I don't know, is it reasonable to expect mfrs to design their index
 shifting to match other companies equipment?  There's no reason for
 someone like Shimano to design their components to match Campy or visa
 versa. Of course, this could lead to goofy things like proprietary
 chainrings i.e., Campy's carbon compact cranks, especially those
 with one hidden chainring bolt, seem to come with 4 bolts at 110mm and
 the fifth bolt at 112mm!

 Of course, there are work-arounds. Sometimes, clunky, but do-able. For
 example, for Campy rings that come with the goofy 110/112bcd, Andy
 Muzi at Yellow Jersey has posted in another forum that all you need to
 do is grind down some of the chainring hole to make it fit a 110bcd.
 Further, you can make Campy and Shimano indexing work by mounting the
 der cable in the opposite direction.

 Finally, I do agree that mfrs want customers loyalty. There going to
 design their components to work seamlessly. The fact that its
 incompatible with another mfr's system is probably not a
 consideration. Good Luck!
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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread Phil B

zrainryder -

I'd suggest changing out the cranks.  Campy front shifter/derailers
don't care what crank you are using.  Once you start changing out
stuff in the back it opens a can of worms which (for me) is solved
eventually with spending too much money.

On another note you may want to ride it as is for a while.  Although
I'm not familiar with that particular model, Serotta's are generally
responsive machines and depending on the terrain and your condition
you could eck by with that 34T/28t combo.

I had swapped out the cranks on my Campy equipped Merlin, geared 12-23
in the rear, with a compact compact of 46/30 using a Sugino triple.
Recently I returned to the 50/34 Campy, since I'm pretty sure I will
be selling it, and found most of my routes to be doable.  That bike
won't be seeing any racks or bags of any size and it could use a
couple more teeth in the rear, but as is it's fine.  Bigger gears rely
on technique as much as strength.

Let us know how it works out.

Phil B


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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread James Warren



-Original Message-
From: Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com


I find it hard to believe that your current 50/34x12-28 setup doesn't
give you low enough gearing. 


I believe it. I can only speak for myself, but anything that doesn't go as low 
as 34 x 34 is unacceptable. I live among many hills, often steep and my knee 
hurts if I'm not careful. Furthermore, I won't set up a bike that doesn't offer 
a bailout 24-tooth chainring.

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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread Brewster Fong



On Jun 30, 11:00 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  Finally, I do agree that mfrs want customers loyalty. There going to
  design their components to work seamlessly. The fact that its
  incompatible with another mfr's system is probably not a
  consideration. Good Luck!

 In the good old days of friction shifting, manufacturers won customer
 loyalty by trying to make ders, shifters and freewheels that looked
 and worked better than the competition.  The consumer enjoyed the
 ability to mix and match according to personal need, budget and
 aesthetics.

Welcome to the 21st Century!  Hey, I ran friction shifting for years.
In fact, I was the last guy to convert over to ergo in my group. I was
running a 9 spd set up with Simplex friction shifters!  Today, you
rarely see anyone with dt or even bar-ends and I bet many of those are
indexed. Probably 90% of bikes sold today in the US have some sort of
STI shifter. Shimano dominates and that's it!


 Now the big two make proprietary systems which limit the consumers'
 ability to make the bike as they want.
 I guess in one sense you could call this progress.  I really wonder
 for whom.

Doesn't matter. As long as Shimano dominates, we going to get what
they want you to get. Even with Sram coming out with its group, which
btw is Shimano-compatible, you're still have basically proprietary
systems. That's the way things work. Friction is not coming back. Hey,
that ship has left, its like trying  get people to use 650b
wheels:)..Good Luck with that!
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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread JoelMatthews

Doesn't matter. As long as Shimano dominates, we going to get what
they want you to get. Even with Sram coming out with its group, which
btw is Shimano-compatible, you're still have basically proprietary
systems. That's the way things work. Friction is not coming back. Hey,
that ship has left, its like trying  get people to use 650b
wheels:)..Good Luck with that!

Well, fortunately for me, I have stockpiled so much friction gear (a
lot of it NOS.  STI really must have caught the old line makers off
guard because there is so much stuff that never sold out there) to
last me the rest of my riding life.

I think the overly complex - and pricey - new systems is partly behind
so many people going to single speed and fixed even in locations where
some gears at least may help.

It will be interesting to see whether SRAM making Shimano compatible
keeps prices in line.

On Jun 30, 1:37 pm, Brewster Fong bfd...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Jun 30, 11:00 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:  Finally, I 
 do agree that mfrs want customers loyalty. There going to
   design their components to work seamlessly. The fact that its
   incompatible with another mfr's system is probably not a
   consideration. Good Luck!

  In the good old days of friction shifting, manufacturers won customer
  loyalty by trying to make ders, shifters and freewheels that looked
  and worked better than the competition.  The consumer enjoyed the
  ability to mix and match according to personal need, budget and
  aesthetics.

 Welcome to the 21st Century!  Hey, I ran friction shifting for years.
 In fact, I was the last guy to convert over to ergo in my group. I was
 running a 9 spd set up with Simplex friction shifters!  Today, you
 rarely see anyone with dt or even bar-ends and I bet many of those are
 indexed. Probably 90% of bikes sold today in the US have some sort of
 STI shifter. Shimano dominates and that's it!

  Now the big two make proprietary systems which limit the consumers'
  ability to make the bike as they want.
  I guess in one sense you could call this progress.  I really wonder
  for whom.

 Doesn't matter. As long as Shimano dominates, we going to get what
 they want you to get. Even with Sram coming out with its group, which
 btw is Shimano-compatible, you're still have basically proprietary
 systems. That's the way things work. Friction is not coming back. Hey,
 that ship has left, its like trying  get people to use 650b
 wheels:)..Good Luck with that!
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[RBW] Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread Gino Zahnd
For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross Check or
Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?

It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a Surly, but if
you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!

I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my Rivs for
all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.

Thanks,
Gino

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[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread Seth Vidal

On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 3:11 PM, Gino Zahndginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
 For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross Check or
 Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?

 It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a Surly, but if
 you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!

 I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my Rivs for
 all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.


I don't know of how they fit exactly - but I did run across this the
other day - if you're tall it is a heckof a deal

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/ZZ282A16-Surly+Cross+Check+Frameset+08-09.aspx


-sv

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[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread Jon Cameron

Hi Gino,

I own and ride a 55cm Romulus, and a 55cm Bleriot and they fit and
ride beautifully for my five foot six inch body with an 80cm PBH.  I
also own and ride a 52cm Surly cross check, and it too fits and rides
very well. The various strengths and weaknesses of the products from
both companies have been well discussed in this group over the years,
so I'll not fan those flames. The data point I'm offering you supports
your premise that Surly's are best sized by top tube length. ( and
Rivendell's remain best sized by PBH )  Hope this helps, Jon Cameron.

On Jun 30, 2:11 pm, Gino Zahnd ginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
 For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross Check or
 Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?

 It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a Surly, but if
 you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!

 I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my Rivs for
 all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.

 Thanks,
 Gino
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[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread Gino Zahnd
Thanks Jon.

Yeah, I don't want to get into the strengths and weaknesses. I know them.
Just want to know the proper size.  :-)



On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 12:22 PM, Jon Cameron
j.cameron4...@sbcglobal.netwrote:


 Hi Gino,

 I own and ride a 55cm Romulus, and a 55cm Bleriot and they fit and
 ride beautifully for my five foot six inch body with an 80cm PBH.  I
 also own and ride a 52cm Surly cross check, and it too fits and rides
 very well. The various strengths and weaknesses of the products from
 both companies have been well discussed in this group over the years,
 so I'll not fan those flames. The data point I'm offering you supports
 your premise that Surly's are best sized by top tube length. ( and
 Rivendell's remain best sized by PBH )  Hope this helps, Jon Cameron.


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[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread Bill Connell

On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 2:11 PM, Gino Zahndginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
 For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross Check or
 Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?

 It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a Surly, but if
 you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!

 I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my Rivs for
 all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.

I have both - i ride a 65cm Redwood and a 62cm CrossCheck, and the fit
is very similar. I have a 2cm shorter stem on the CrossCheck, but same
bars and saddle. I haven't measured precisely, but the contact points
are almost identical between the two, mainly the bars are about 1-2cm
lower on the CrossCheck.

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: More Problems with Gravel

2009-06-30 Thread PATRICK MOORE
The bike, or what is left of it, is a 2008 (I think it's an '08) Redline
Monocog 29er, the cheap tigg'd chromo very compact 29er mtb frame that,
built up OEM, rolls out the door for a list of $500 plus tax. I've
considerably upgraded mine, but the frame, despite it's girder-like
stiffness and massive weight, works very well for my purpose. It takes the
2.3 Big Apples which, on the 45 mm Snowcat SL rims, measure an actual 65 mm
wide and 29 1/4 inches tall; and there is still huge clearance for Planet
Bike 60 mm fenders and daylight between top of tire and bottom of fender.
The bb height with these wheels is an immense 12+ inches, but the bike does
not feel tippy. Remaining from the stock package, beside the frame, are
the hugely long seatpost, and the headset; all else is upgraded, thus:
Truvative 170 road crankset with Truvative bb and single 39 t ring.
18 t BMX cog
Turbo saddle
Salsa Bell Lap bars, 46 cm
Profile very short and steep stem
Dura Ace aero levers
Avid 160 mm road disc brakes (I hope soon to change the front to a 180 or
230)
Better-than-Jagwire cables
First generation Shimano M540 (?) pedals
Old Nelson
Velo Orange bag support
Honka Hoota

I can run the Big Apples at lower than 15 front, tho' much below 15 psi and
you have sidewall flex and steering weirdness on pavement. I am still
seeking the sweet spot for the rear tire pressure: 18 is a bit hard: but I
expect that, for my typical rides, of which 2/3 are on sandy irrigation
roads and 1/3 are on pavement, 13/15 might be the best compromise.

I hope to get a local brazer to install fender and rack braze ons, move the
front disc mount to accomodate a 230 mm rotor, install threaded eyelets for
fenders under seatstay and chainstay bridges, and rig up some sort of fork
crown extension (the rigid fork is suspension corrected) so that I can get a
decent front fender line without having to jury-rig a mounting bracket.

On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 8:54 AM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:


 Do you have the BAs on a road bike frame or a mountain bike frame?

 I could probably do alright on a 29er, as MTB geometry puts the rider
 somewhat lower in any event.

 When I first put the BAs on the road frame, I tried lowering the seat.
 On my first ride it occurred to me the higher tires do not change the
 distance between the seat and pedals.  I guess I could have replaced
 the 170 crank with 172.5 or 175.  That sort of alchemy more frequently
 leads to sore knees than not, though.

 On Jun 30, 9:13 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  I'm a startling 5'10 in bare feet on a level, hard surface.
 
  I've not ridden 584, and my comments about it were largely facetious.
  I went from 60 mm Big Apples in the 559 size (26 3/4 inches diam) to
  ditto on 722s (29 1/4) and the float over sand, the cush over, say,
  washboard, and the traction when cornering ,at least on pavement, were
  very noticeably better. (I say on pavement because, with such tires
  on dirt, you can't corner hard, I prefer them nonetheless for their
  easy rolling on pavement, this being an all rounder type of bike.) I
  extrapolate that 722 would also be better in this regard than 584,
  tho' presumeable not by as much.
 
  On 6/30/09, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   Only half my tongue is in my cheek. (The other half is in my pocket.)
   I really love my Monocog 29er set up as a on/off road allrounder with
   said BAs and Snowcats, drops, fenders, and a modest 63 gear. Not
   Rivendellian, but unfortunately the only Riv that comes close, the
   Bomdadil, only takes skinny tires. (It does have vertical dropouts,
   but you could use an eccentric bb.)
 
   How tall are you?
 
   At just under 6' 0 I have always ridden 700s.  When I started reading
   about BAs, I had to try them.  I set up one of my touring bikes with
   them.  Everything I read about BAs - comfort, handling, smooth ride,
   surprisingly low rolling resistance - was right on the mark.  On the
   other hand, whenever I ride the bike I feel like I am on one of those
   old gas lamp lighters.
 
   So I am now definitely in Steve's camp.  The ideal 650b design mandate
   are bikes built to accomodate big honking 50mm and 60mm tires for
   people probably up to 6'2 or so.  I hope Schwalbe starts thinking
   about making a 650b Big Apple.
 
   On Jun 30, 3:29 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
   On 6/29/09, GeorgeS chobur...@gmail.com wrote:
 
Well.  The consensus seems to be that it's my fault.  This is not
exactly what I was looking for.  Doesn't anyone want to suggest
special gravel wheels or, even better, a new frame of the country
variety?  I mean I fell twice.  Should be some equipment here that I
could explain to my wife is critical to my safety.   Thanks though
 for
the input.
GeorgeS
 
   Hell, I'd be annoyed too if I had a perfectly good medical reason to
   buy a new bike, or at least new tires, and everyone told me, Don't
   bother, it's your 

[RBW] Re: Rivendell on Seattle to Portland

2009-06-30 Thread RoadieRyan

I last did STP in 2004 when I did the one day version with friends and
boy did we use the whole 24 hours ;-)  For some reason I haven't gone
back since.  That said its a great ride, well supported ,big turnout,
good route etc.  Hope you have a great dry ride with the wind at your
back, a tandem to draft, and beers at the end,

On Jun 30, 8:23 am, Frank pguil...@gmail.com wrote:
 Is anyone on the list planning to ride STP this year?  I'm going down
 in two days this year on my Saluki, and may end up riding with another
 Bleriot rider.  We'll be overnighting in Centralia at the halfway
 point, so if anyone has correlative plans and would like to meet up,
 it would be good to say hey face to face.
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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread RoadieRyan

One option is Campy does make a 13x29 10 speed cassette (as does their
aftermarket supplier Miche)  Only one more tooth than you currently
have but no compatablity issues.  PBK often has killer deals -when
they are in stock  http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=L5067

For source material I believe that Lenard Zinn the lead tech guy at
Velonews gets these questions quite often and you might look at his
archives.  He also has a section in his Zinn and the art of Road bike
maintenance on mixing and matching components.  As I recall the 9
speed stuff mixes pretty well but I think mixing 9 and 10 speed can be
iffy.   The Jtek suggestions above is also a good bet for info.

RR

On Jun 30, 11:56 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
 Doesn't matter. As long as Shimano dominates, we going to get what
 they want you to get. Even with Sram coming out with its group, which
 btw is Shimano-compatible, you're still have basically proprietary
 systems. That's the way things work. Friction is not coming back. Hey,
 that ship has left, its like trying  get people to use 650b
 wheels:)..Good Luck with that!

 Well, fortunately for me, I have stockpiled so much friction gear (a
 lot of it NOS.  STI really must have caught the old line makers off
 guard because there is so much stuff that never sold out there) to
 last me the rest of my riding life.

 I think the overly complex - and pricey - new systems is partly behind
 so many people going to single speed and fixed even in locations where
 some gears at least may help.

 It will be interesting to see whether SRAM making Shimano compatible
 keeps prices in line.

 On Jun 30, 1:37 pm, Brewster Fong bfd...@yahoo.com wrote:



  On Jun 30, 11:00 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:  Finally, 
  I do agree that mfrs want customers loyalty. There going to
design their components to work seamlessly. The fact that its
incompatible with another mfr's system is probably not a
consideration. Good Luck!

   In the good old days of friction shifting, manufacturers won customer
   loyalty by trying to make ders, shifters and freewheels that looked
   and worked better than the competition.  The consumer enjoyed the
   ability to mix and match according to personal need, budget and
   aesthetics.

  Welcome to the 21st Century!  Hey, I ran friction shifting for years.
  In fact, I was the last guy to convert over to ergo in my group. I was
  running a 9 spd set up with Simplex friction shifters!  Today, you
  rarely see anyone with dt or even bar-ends and I bet many of those are
  indexed. Probably 90% of bikes sold today in the US have some sort of
  STI shifter. Shimano dominates and that's it!

   Now the big two make proprietary systems which limit the consumers'
   ability to make the bike as they want.
   I guess in one sense you could call this progress.  I really wonder
   for whom.

  Doesn't matter. As long as Shimano dominates, we going to get what
  they want you to get. Even with Sram coming out with its group, which
  btw is Shimano-compatible, you're still have basically proprietary
  systems. That's the way things work. Friction is not coming back. Hey,
  that ship has left, its like trying  get people to use 650b
  wheels:)..Good Luck with that!- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: Rivendell on Seattle to Portland

2009-06-30 Thread Eric Norris

All this talk of STP is a great lead-in for a reminder to Riv owners  
in Oregon and Washington that the riders of Wheels North will be  
coming to town sometime in the next two weeks.  We are riding 1,100  
miles from California to Seattle to help raise funds for  
Histiocytosis, a rare and fatal disease.  Our web site is at www.wheelsnorth.org

Complete details on our route through Oregon and Washington are here:  
http://wheelsnorth.campyonly.com/the_route.html 
   (The last two days from Portland to Seattle will follow the STP  
route in reverse.)

If anyone on this list would like to meet us on the route and ride for  
a while, shoot me an email offlist.

Thanks!

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org



On Jun 30, 2009, at 1:08 PM, RoadieRyan wrote:


 I last did STP in 2004 when I did the one day version with friends and
 boy did we use the whole 24 hours ;-)  For some reason I haven't gone
 back since.  That said its a great ride, well supported ,big turnout,
 good route etc.  Hope you have a great dry ride with the wind at your
 back, a tandem to draft, and beers at the end,

 On Jun 30, 8:23 am, Frank pguil...@gmail.com wrote:
 Is anyone on the list planning to ride STP this year?  I'm going down
 in two days this year on my Saluki, and may end up riding with  
 another
 Bleriot rider.  We'll be overnighting in Centralia at the halfway
 point, so if anyone has correlative plans and would like to meet up,
 it would be good to say hey face to face.
 


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[RBW] Re: Rivendell on Seattle to Portland

2009-06-30 Thread franklyn

My wife and I did the one-day version in 2007. It's a great
experience. That year pirates were rampant and at some rest stops the
volunteers were rationing the remaining food. Bring your own
electrolytes if you don't like gatorade. I did it on my Specialized
Expedition Deluxe touring bike. It's a great ride for a quickbeam--
it's very flat.
Franklyn

On Jun 30, 1:30 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 All this talk of STP is a great lead-in for a reminder to Riv owners  
 in Oregon and Washington that the riders of Wheels North will be  
 coming to town sometime in the next two weeks.  We are riding 1,100  
 miles from California to Seattle to help raise funds for  
 Histiocytosis, a rare and fatal disease.  Our web site is 
 atwww.wheelsnorth.org

 Complete details on our route through Oregon and Washington are here:  
 http://wheelsnorth.campyonly.com/the_route.html
    (The last two days from Portland to Seattle will follow the STP  
 route in reverse.)

 If anyone on this list would like to meet us on the route and ride for  
 a while, shoot me an email offlist.

 Thanks!

 --Eric
 campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org

 On Jun 30, 2009, at 1:08 PM, RoadieRyan wrote:





  I last did STP in 2004 when I did the one day version with friends and
  boy did we use the whole 24 hours ;-)  For some reason I haven't gone
  back since.  That said its a great ride, well supported ,big turnout,
  good route etc.  Hope you have a great dry ride with the wind at your
  back, a tandem to draft, and beers at the end,

  On Jun 30, 8:23 am, Frank pguil...@gmail.com wrote:
  Is anyone on the list planning to ride STP this year?  I'm going down
  in two days this year on my Saluki, and may end up riding with  
  another
  Bleriot rider.  We'll be overnighting in Centralia at the halfway
  point, so if anyone has correlative plans and would like to meet up,
  it would be good to say hey face to face.
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[RBW] Grand Tour Double Century Ride Report (or why I missed the S24O)

2009-06-30 Thread Joe Bartoe


Hi Everyone,

My brother, Tim, a friend of his, Bill, and myself completed the Grand Tour 
Double Century out of Malibu this past weekend. I've posted my write-up here if 
you care to read. I'm hoping to add a few pics eventually, but there will be 
nothing exciting about them:

http://thesaltycyclist.blogspot.com/2009/06/2009-grand-tour-double-century-ride.html

Oh, one thing I learned on this ride! When they put that black stuff on the 
road to seal a crack, take care when taking corners at speed, this stuff is a 
little slick. I had my rear wheel slide a bit on some of it during the ride, 
which surprised the heck out of me. Fortunately, it was just for a few moments 
and I didn't go down.

Joe



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[RBW] Re: Grand Tour Double Century Ride Report (or why I missed the S24O)

2009-06-30 Thread Esteban

Well, Joe, that's a pretty darn good excuse to miss out on camping.
Great narrative!

On Jun 30, 2:17 pm, Joe Bartoe jbar...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Hi Everyone,

 My brother, Tim, a friend of his, Bill, and myself completed the Grand Tour 
 Double Century out of Malibu this past weekend. I've posted my write-up here 
 if you care to read. I'm hoping to add a few pics eventually, but there will 
 be nothing exciting about them:

 http://thesaltycyclist.blogspot.com/2009/06/2009-grand-tour-double-ce...

 Oh, one thing I learned on this ride! When they put that black stuff on the 
 road to seal a crack, take care when taking corners at speed, this stuff is a 
 little slick. I had my rear wheel slide a bit on some of it during the ride, 
 which surprised the heck out of me. Fortunately, it was just for a few 
 moments and I didn't go down.

 Joe

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell on Seattle to Portland

2009-06-30 Thread Darren Stone

Sure, I'm doing it with a couple of friends.  Coming down from
Vancouver (Canada).

I'll be riding a butterscotch 650A Saluki and talking with a funny
accent.  Mid-point for us is Napavine, WA.

-Darren.

On Jun 30, 8:23 am, Frank pguil...@gmail.com wrote:
 Is anyone on the list planning to ride STP this year?  I'm going down
 in two days this year on my Saluki, and may end up riding with another
 Bleriot rider.  We'll be overnighting in Centralia at the halfway
 point, so if anyone has correlative plans and would like to meet up,
 it would be good to say hey face to face.
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[RBW] anyone actually tried Rivendell's Bullmoose bar yet?

2009-06-30 Thread David Sprunger

Hi.  I have been on the road and away from email for a few weeks, but
I visited the Rivendell site today and saw this listing for a Nitto
Bullmoose bar/stem.  Has anyone actually seen and/or ridden one yet?
http://www.rivbike.com/#product=16-198

David Sprunger
Fargo, ND

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[RBW] Whoa! Bombadil component alert!

2009-06-30 Thread Mike

These'll look great on a Bombadil.

http://www.rivbike.com//#product=16-198

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[RBW] Re: Whoa! Bombadil component alert!

2009-06-30 Thread Mike

Be sure to scroll down through the pictures. Interesting rackage.

On Jun 30, 5:24 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 These'll look great on a Bombadil.

 http://www.rivbike.com//#product=16-198
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[RBW] Re: anyone actually tried Rivendell's Bullmoose bar yet?

2009-06-30 Thread Mike

We both posted about this at the same time. That picture just went up.
They look beautiful. Did you notice the front rack that's also on
display in one of the photos? Weird.

On Jun 30, 5:24 pm, David Sprunger sprun...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi.  I have been on the road and away from email for a few weeks, but
 I visited the Rivendell site today and saw this listing for a Nitto
 Bullmoose bar/stem.  Has anyone actually seen and/or ridden one 
 yet?http://www.rivbike.com/#product=16-198

 David Sprunger
 Fargo, ND
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[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread Mike

Hey Gino, like Jon say, size it by TT, not PBH. That's the answer
you're looking for. Good luck.

Did you see that Gunnar now makes a touring bike?

On Jun 30, 5:37 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a 60cm CC and a 62cm Rambouillet and 63cm Hilsen. The 60cm
 Surly feels a tad out of whack because the head tube is short, making
 it difficult to get the bars at the right height. I did try a 62cm CC
 years ago and it felt way too big but that was before I had a Riv. I
 definitely wouldn't get a 62cm CC even now. Because of the higher BB
 height the CC feels odd with large tires on it.

 If I were going to do it over again I'd get an LHT which has a much
 taller headtube.

 Why don't you just couple the Bleriot you have?

 --mike

 On Jun 30, 12:25 pm, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:

  On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 2:11 PM, Gino Zahndginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
   For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross Check 
   or
   Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?

   It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a Surly, but 
   if
   you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!

   I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my Rivs for
   all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.

  I have both - i ride a 65cm Redwood and a 62cm CrossCheck, and the fit
  is very similar. I have a 2cm shorter stem on the CrossCheck, but same
  bars and saddle. I haven't measured precisely, but the contact points
  are almost identical between the two, mainly the bars are about 1-2cm
  lower on the CrossCheck.

  --
  Bill Connell
  St. Paul, MN
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[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread Bill Connell

I agree on the TT sizing. Also, if you can, buy it with the steerer
uncut so you can get the bars where you want them.

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN



On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 7:40 PM, Mikemjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Gino, like Jon say, size it by TT, not PBH. That's the answer
 you're looking for. Good luck.

 Did you see that Gunnar now makes a touring bike?

 On Jun 30, 5:37 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a 60cm CC and a 62cm Rambouillet and 63cm Hilsen. The 60cm
 Surly feels a tad out of whack because the head tube is short, making
 it difficult to get the bars at the right height. I did try a 62cm CC
 years ago and it felt way too big but that was before I had a Riv. I
 definitely wouldn't get a 62cm CC even now. Because of the higher BB
 height the CC feels odd with large tires on it.

 If I were going to do it over again I'd get an LHT which has a much
 taller headtube.

 Why don't you just couple the Bleriot you have?

 --mike

 On Jun 30, 12:25 pm, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:

  On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 2:11 PM, Gino Zahndginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
   For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross Check 
   or
   Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?

   It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a Surly, 
   but if
   you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!

   I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my Rivs 
   for
   all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.

  I have both - i ride a 65cm Redwood and a 62cm CrossCheck, and the fit
  is very similar. I have a 2cm shorter stem on the CrossCheck, but same
  bars and saddle. I haven't measured precisely, but the contact points
  are almost identical between the two, mainly the bars are about 1-2cm
  lower on the CrossCheck.

  --
  Bill Connell
  St. Paul, MN
 


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[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread EricP

Another one for TT sizing.  In fact, Eric of Surly told me that.
After seeing me ride a 62cm Cross Check.  Way too big for me.  Made it
work with Albatross bars.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Jun 30, 7:50�pm, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I agree on the TT sizing. Also, if you can, buy it with the steerer
 uncut so you can get the bars where you want them.

 --
 Bill Connell
 St. Paul, MN



 On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 7:40 PM, Mikemjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

  Hey Gino, like Jon say, size it by TT, not PBH. That's the answer
  you're looking for. Good luck.

  Did you see that Gunnar now makes a touring bike?

  On Jun 30, 5:37�pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
  I have a 60cm CC and a 62cm Rambouillet and 63cm Hilsen. The 60cm
  Surly feels a tad out of whack because the head tube is short, making
  it difficult to get the bars at the right height. I did try a 62cm CC
  years ago and it felt way too big but that was before I had a Riv. I
  definitely wouldn't get a 62cm CC even now. Because of the higher BB
  height the CC feels odd with large tires on it.

  If I were going to do it over again I'd get an LHT which has a much
  taller headtube.

  Why don't you just couple the Bleriot you have?

  --mike

  On Jun 30, 12:25�pm, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:

   On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 2:11 PM, Gino Zahndginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross 
Check or
Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?

It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a Surly, 
but if
you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!

I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my Rivs 
for
all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.

   I have both - i ride a 65cm Redwood and a 62cm CrossCheck, and the fit
   is very similar. I have a 2cm shorter stem on the CrossCheck, but same
   bars and saddle. I haven't measured precisely, but the contact points
   are almost identical between the two, mainly the bars are about 1-2cm
   lower on the CrossCheck.

   --
   Bill Connell
   St. Paul, MN- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: Whoa! Bombadil component alert!

2009-06-30 Thread EricP

Per the read about it that's the intention.  I especially like the
idea of having it match the frame.  But I always loved the look of the
old Ritchey and Fisher MountainBikes.

Personally, my favorite setup was the old Nitto double clamp stem and
riser bars from the 1984 Stumpjumper.  Very heavy, but to my mind a
nice change from the bullmoose.   Still these new bars look
beautiful.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Jun 30, 7:24�pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 These'll look great on a Bombadil.

 http://www.rivbike.com//#product=16-198
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[RBW] Re: Tubus rack and SKS fenders

2009-06-30 Thread EricP

I tried that.  Didn't work.  Even tried the upper hole in the rack for
the fenders.  Also didn't work.  Ended up using the (Tubus) spacers
and put the fenders on the lower eyelets.  The fender line is not
perfect.  But the biggest problem was the upper nut hitting the rack
strut.  Worked out by canting the rack slightly forward.  See this
photo: http://tinyurl.com/mlsx9u  (A couple other shots were taken on
the ride tonight with the new setup.)

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.  Now to get this bike out for a
longer ride.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Jun 30, 10:04�am, Horace max...@sdf.lonestar.org wrote:
 Have you tried mounting both the fender stays and the rack on the same
 upper eyelet? I have two bikes with SKS fenders and Tubus racks (Luna
 and Cosmo), and that worked fine on both bikes. (Neither bike had
 lower eyelets).

 Horace.



 On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 7:19 AM, EricPericpl...@aol.com wrote:

  Been thinking of putting a Tubus Cargo rack on my Hillborne for some
  S24O or maybe even a mini-tour. �When trying things out last night,
  appears the rack stays hit the fender stays. �Checking the Rivendell
  website, it appears Grant bent the fender stays on his Atlantis to
  avoid this issue.

  Is that probably the best method? �Nothing else I tried seems to
  work. �Checked putting the rack on the lower dropout braze-ons and the
  fenders on the higher. �Nope.

  My other option - just keep the Nitto R-14 top rack on and getting the
  Sackville Large saddlebag. �My Carradice Nelson just seems a bit small
  for this. �But I did something similar with the Atlantis last year.

  Anyone have some good advice?

  Eric Platt
  St. Paul, MN- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread rcnute

I had a 54 cm CC that seemed to work.  Had a 57 Bleriot and 58 Saluki.

On Jun 30, 5:57 pm, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 Another one for TT sizing.  In fact, Eric of Surly told me that.
 After seeing me ride a 62cm Cross Check.  Way too big for me.  Made it
 work with Albatross bars.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Jun 30, 7:50 pm, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:

  I agree on the TT sizing. Also, if you can, buy it with the steerer
  uncut so you can get the bars where you want them.

  --
  Bill Connell
  St. Paul, MN

  On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 7:40 PM, Mikemjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

   Hey Gino, like Jon say, size it by TT, not PBH. That's the answer
   you're looking for. Good luck.

   Did you see that Gunnar now makes a touring bike?

   On Jun 30, 5:37 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
   I have a 60cm CC and a 62cm Rambouillet and 63cm Hilsen. The 60cm
   Surly feels a tad out of whack because the head tube is short, making
   it difficult to get the bars at the right height. I did try a 62cm CC
   years ago and it felt way too big but that was before I had a Riv. I
   definitely wouldn't get a 62cm CC even now. Because of the higher BB
   height the CC feels odd with large tires on it.

   If I were going to do it over again I'd get an LHT which has a much
   taller headtube.

   Why don't you just couple the Bleriot you have?

   --mike

   On Jun 30, 12:25 pm, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:

On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 2:11 PM, Gino Zahndginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
 For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross 
 Check or
 Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?

 It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a 
 Surly, but if
 you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!

 I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my 
 Rivs for
 all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.

I have both - i ride a 65cm Redwood and a 62cm CrossCheck, and the fit
is very similar. I have a 2cm shorter stem on the CrossCheck, but same
bars and saddle. I haven't measured precisely, but the contact points
are almost identical between the two, mainly the bars are about 1-2cm
lower on the CrossCheck.

--
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: anyone actually tried Rivendell's Bullmoose bar yet?

2009-06-30 Thread AJ



I was at the shop about a week ago and saw the bullmoose; very nicely
done, with a gorgeous curve.  I ordered one in fire engine red to
match the Bombadil.  I threw a leg over, but did not take a ride.  My
brief first impression is that it will be a very comfortable bar.
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[RBW] Re: Whoa! Bombadil component alert!

2009-06-30 Thread BPustow


In a message dated 6/30/2009 9:02:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ericpl...@aol.com writes:

Per the  read about it that's the intention.
   Sorry, I don't get it. Asking what the extension is seems like  a 
logical question.
Bill
**A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377075x1201454393/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072hmpgID=62bcd=
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[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

2009-06-30 Thread Christopher Paul

Why not couple your Ram?  Speed and All day comfort. The Surely can't
hold a candle imho.
Cheers,
Chris

P.S. I want to thank whoever directed me to the Hubbub.com web site
for the Mixing Components question.  My LBS tried to sell me on a more
costly and less desirable 10 speed Campagnolo solution, and I directed
him to the link you provided.  He admitted it could be done and would
do it for me.  I have donated some of the money I saved in a local
beer drive in your honor.  Really, thanks!


On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 12:11 PM, Gino Zahndginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
 For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross Check or
 Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?

 It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a Surly, but if
 you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!

 I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my Rivs for
 all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.

 Thanks,
 Gino

 


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[RBW] Re: Mixing Components

2009-06-30 Thread Christopher Paul

Finally was able to track down your reply.  THANK-YOU My LBS
balked about using my parts in this fashion (I have a history of
giving them parts and paying for their labor, so this is nothing new).
 I directed them to the link you gave me, and the owner acknowledged
that this was a viable solution and agreed to do it for me.  This
knowledge prevented him from running up the tab with less efficient
alternatives.  As I told Gino, I have allocated funds from this
savings for beer from a local establishment in a depressed economy in
your honor.  Seriously,
Thanks!
Chris

On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 9:45 AM, Brewster Fongbfd...@yahoo.com wrote:



 On Jun 30, 8:01 am, zrainryder zdree...@gmail.com wrote:
 Just picked up an unusual bike on Craig's list (Serotta Hors
 Categorie). Even though its not a Rivendell, it does have an extended
 head tube and the curved seat stays really work in smoothing out road
 noise.  It came with Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed groupo (12-28) and a
 compact crank (34-50).  Not as nice as my Rambrouillet  Bleriot that
 have Sugino triples (26-36-48) and sram 11-34 cassettes (which are
 nine speeds).  Ok, the main objective I have is to get lower gearing
 on the new bike.  I was thinking of putting a sram mountain cassette
 on the back (11-34) and changing out the campy real derailleur for a
 long cage xt.  This would give me a low gear ratio of about 27 (700c
 tires).  Will this work? I know most bike technicians  say keep with
 one manufacturer...I hope this will work, because then I will have an
 expanded range (by increasing the largest COG from 48 to 50) while
 eliminating the granny gear.  If this won't work, then I can always
 exchange the crank, bottom bracket, groupo, brakes etc. to match my
 other bikes.  I'm hoping to avoid that.

 Mixing Campy and Shimano is possible. However, you appear to also want
 to mix 9 and 10 speed gearing. Since you're using Campy ergo, then frt
 der is a non-issue, unlike Shimano where you need to be specific as to
 what is used.

 Usually, its recommended to match your rear shifter with your rear
 der. So, using Campy Veloce 10 spd rear with Campy rear der over 10
 cogs is a given. However, since you're looking to use a XT long cage
 rear der, it appears you now want to go from 10 spd to 9 spd. It may
 work.

 You'll want to look at the Hubbub article on mixing Campy 10 ergo with
 Shimano 9 by clamping the cable in the opposite position:

 http://www.hubbub.com/articles_ergopower.html


 You shouldmay look at this chart too:

 http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3946


 I use an older 2000 Campy 9 ergo (pre-2001 geometry) and a 2006 Campy
 9 rear der with Shimano 9 cassette/hubs and Sram 9 chain with NO
 PROBLEM. Mixing and match 9 works fine for me. I have a friend who
 uses a DA 8 rear der with Campy 9 ergo and has no problem shifting 9
 spd.

 Finally, If none of the above work, check Jtek shiftmate to see if
 they offer something that might help. Good Luck!
 


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