[RBW] Re: Roadini Build - Mix of Modern and Retro

2024-05-26 Thread Jay
I wanted to circle back and close out initial impressions on my Roadini.  I 
used it on a road ride with my friend today.  I put on the 2nd wheelset, 
that has Vittoria Corsa Pro 30mm tires.  My friend is faster and when we 
ride together he dials it back, and I push harder than I usually do, and it 
works out and we have good rides.  I was worried that the extra weight (4-5 
pounds) and more upright posture would hold be back, so I warned him in 
advance.  I felt really comfortable on the entire 2.5 ride, including a 
headwind on our way back.  I used the drops quite a bit, in part because 
they're very comfortable.  I felt really good and was pleasantly surprised 
that we probably had our fastest average on those roads.  Well done Leo!

On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 1:33:55 PM UTC-5 Jay wrote:

> First post here!  I've been reading some of the threads and this sounds 
> like a good place...my new happy place ;-)
>
> I ordered the dark gold Roadini (57) from the only shop in Canada that 
> sells Riv (C Cycles) and will be picking it up in a few weeks when I'll 
> be visiting Montreal.
>
> Looking for this to be a project bike, that evolves over time.  For now 
> though, I had a lot of new / lightly used parts on hand, so I'll be using 
> those and having the bike shop supply the rest (including some handbill 
> wheels for some lightly used 43mm GKSS tires I'm using on my Fargo in the 
> winter).  Build will be Shimano 11sp, with DT shifters and Tektro RRL brake 
> levers, and Tektro brakes.
>
> Purpose of the bike is all-road (where I live, a lot of that is paved, but 
> there are gravel roads further out), but will not be used much on local 
> mixed-surface trails (where the Fargo excels).  My current road bike will 
> be jealous, but I'm not kicking her to the curb just yet!
>
> Photos to come in February.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Upright / Relaxed / Swept-Back - Style of Riding

2024-05-26 Thread Jay
I ended up sticking with drop bars, but making some changes after a good 
conversation with my chiro and a few rides on the three bikes where I paid 
a lot of attention to where I had pain, and my posture on those rides.

On the Roadini and Salsa, I was using 42cm bars (at the hoods hoods) with 
12 degrees of flare.  First time I went up from 40cm.  In previous fittings 
I was told I can run a 38cm as I have narrow shoulders.  It's a trend these 
days to run wider, I tried it, but it really backfired given my 
pre-existing neck/shoulder issue.  When on the hoods my arms were not a 
straight line from my body, they were out a bit, and this was a minor 
(major at times) pain.  I replaced those bars, have ridden each bike once 
(1.5-2.5 hours) and it was instantly noticeable.  Pain gone.  Both of those 
bikes have the bars upright (tops level with saddle, hoods higher) and not 
stretched out.  Road bike has 40cm bars, but the reach is long and drop is 
2.5cm below saddle (making the drops unreachable for me).  That's being 
rectified next.

I may try swept back one day, but for now I do love drop bars and the 
varied hand positions, and it was much cheaper to replace two bars and 
re-use the table (success on both counts).

On Wednesday, May 8, 2024 at 9:28:41 PM UTC-4 Jay wrote:

> I was always aware of bikes with a very relaxed geometry / setup, and it 
> wasn't until I started seeing Rivendell bikes and watching youtube videos 
> of people riding them that I really thought about it - is it more 
> comfortable than drop bars, even if I have a more neutral (not aggressive) 
> position on the bike (i.e., bars close to level with saddle)?  Would this 
> be a good option for just cruising around, but for 1-2 hours?  If I didn't 
> get along well with flat bars on mountain bike, would swept back bars be 
> better?
>
> I'm going to ramble a bit here, my apologies in advance.  I haven't 
> thought long enough about this to formulate my question succinctly. 
>  Hopefully you get where I'm coming from.
>
> *Quick background*
> - been riding a little over 20 years (closing in on 50!)
> - started with mountain biking (hardtail, singletrack); moved to road; 
> tried mountain biking two more times (I love being in nature) but didn't 
> like the thrill/danger, and hated the idea of driving to the trail head; 
> have been mainly on the road for last 15 years, though with 10 years of 
> 'gravel' bikes/riding
> - I've had ongoing issues with my cervical spine (nothing serious) and 
> this leads to some problems when riding in any sort of aggressive position 
> on the bike; I see a chiro regularly; stretch a lot; workout / strength 
> training; have had numerous bike fits
> - I have a Roadini, Salsa Fargo and a road bike (25mm tires, but custom 
> made and really does fit like a glove, for road)
> - I don't care about performance at all, I just love riding bikes, in 
> particular when roads are not busy, or on trails, gravel roads, etc.
>
> On a good day (75% of the time), I can ride any of these bikes and during 
> the ride I feel pretty good (little to no pain), maybe a bit of pain after 
> (could be neck/shoulders, but anywhere else really), and after stretching I 
> feel great in a 1/2 to full day.  I ride 4-5x a week, workout 1-2 times 
> spring-fall and more in the winter.  
>
> But at least once a week, and maybe twice, I'll be riding, sometimes tired 
> as it's after work, and within an hour I'm running low on energy and 
> probably start to develop a bad posture on the bike, over-using my arms 
> which causes problems in my neck and shoulders, leading to upper body 
> aches/pains (while riding, and after).  Takes a lot of stretching and 
> awareness to reset.  *This is what I'm trying to resolve (move from 75% 
> to 99%)*
>
> My guess is that even with a bike like the Roadini or Salsa, with bars 
> about level with the saddle, and even with a professional fitting on each, 
> when I want to ride but I'm lacking energy, it goes poorly.  But is that 
> because these bikes are "kind of" aggressive (when compared to say a spine 
> angle closer to 70% and swept back bars)?  Or is it simply a combination of 
> age, history of some 'issues', low on energy and thus bad posture kicks in, 
> and would any bike be a joy to ride, or should I just go for a walk on 
> those days!?
>
> I would love to hear from those who ride both drop bars and also swept 
> back (or similar) in a way more relaxed geometry, or those who transitioned 
> to mainly this style, because it almost fully resolved your issues, if 
> they're anyway similar to mine.  *On a day when you're not feeling it, 
> but you have to commute or just love to ride, do you leave the drop bar 
> bike in the garage and hop on your more relaxed bike, and thus avoid most 
> of

Re: [RBW] Upright / Relaxed / Swept-Back - Style of Riding

2024-05-09 Thread Jay
More great points, thanks!

Some responses:
- I would convert my Salsa Fargo to drop bar.  It has Apex 1x drivetrain, 
and there is an inexpensive MTB shifter that works well, plus this bike is 
designed with drops and flat/swept in mind
- I'm liking the look of the Albatross bar, not too extreme (walk before 
you can run!)
- I agree Bill that diet is important, and while mine is generally quite 
good, on a bad eating evening/day, the next day or later day ride does 
suffer (that includes if I had a beer, which doesn't work for me close to a 
ride, let alone on one...though it did last year on a 3-day tour, so who 
knows!)
- I also agree re: mental health, however, sometimes a ride greatly helps 
my mental health, so it's often worth the trade off (if I'm a bit sore, but 
that's not often case after a stressful time in my life)
- I like a lot of things about drop bars, but I feel like trying something 
different, and with the Fargo being like a drop bar mountain bike, I 
thought it would be a good candidate for convert

I went for a ride at lunch today.  Just 75 minutes.  I focused on keeping 
my pelvis upright/straight, and having my upper back/etc tip over a bit, 
vs. tilting from the pelvis (bike fitter I spoke to recently called this 
being like asparagus coming out of the microwave, trunk is solid, top folds 
over a bit, make sense?).  I was on the Roadini and the hoods are above the 
bars, and the shallow drop to the drops is comfortable and I felt good as I 
moved hand positions, not tilting too much forward.  Was a bind windy on 
the way back and did feel that space between my shoulder blades tightening 
a bit, but no worse than a 2/10 on the pain scale.

On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 4:30:15 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> Quick thought regarding drop bars in response to LuckTurnip:
>
> Almost all of my bikes have drop bars. I have one bike with Soma’s 
> “Oxford” bars (a milder version of theAlbatross?) and a Brompton with a 
> straight handlebar to which I added forward-facing grip extensions.
>
> On my bikes with drop bars, I ride probably 99% of the time on the tops, 
> usually with my hands wrapped around the brake hoods. I find that 
> comfortable and it gives me easy access to the brake levers. 
>
> I spend the other 1% of my time in the drops because I’m not concerned 
> about aerodynamics. There are plenty of things slowing me down, and 
> assuming an aero posture isn’t going to do anything about most of those.
>
> This is of course personal preference, but I like the way drop bars look. 
> I have several classic bikes (Alex Singer, Cinelli, Masi) that were set up 
> with drop bars and which, I think, would look kinda dumb with upright bars. 
> Kind of like a Rambouillet with a polo seat and sissy bar (although some 
> might really like that look).
>
> Ride what you want and pick the bike/seat/handlebars that make you feel 
> comfortable. But don’t assume that drop bars are going to force you into am 
> uncomfortable, crouched posture. 
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>
> On May 9, 2024, at 11:00 AM, lucky...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Fellow older person here. I have avoided owning a “fast bike” for years 
> due to drops killin’ me, but I recently acquired this sporty XO-1 and the 
> Albatross bar is perfect for it! I might not actually be fast but I *feel* 
> fast now (compared to my racked and fat-tired Atlantis) so that’s really 
> what matters. Albatross is the GOAT. 
>
> 
>
> On May 9, 2024, at 09:50, Wesley  wrote:
>
> Hi Jay,
> I'll second what's been said here and by Rivendell: the Albatross is the 
> swept-back bar that is least radical / closest to a drop bar.
>
> I first put an Albatross bar on a bike of mine in 2007 and have kept them 
> on at least one bike ever since. Unlike the other swept-back bars that Riv 
> sells, they have a great hand position that is slightly forward of the stem 
> clamp (demonstrated here): 
> 
>
>
> It's comfy for long hours on the bike. Like you, I find flat bars 
> uncomfortable (they pain my wrists). With Albatross bars, my wrist position 
> feels neutral and natural, a lot like on the lever tops on drop bars. The 
> Albatross bar is on my everyday bike, with the drop bar road bike being 
> used only when I want a lighter bike.
> -Wes 
> On Wednesday, May 8, 2024 at 6:28:41 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:
>
>> I was always aware of bikes with a very relaxed geometry / setup, and it 
>> wasn't until I started seeing Rivendell bikes and watching youtube videos 
>> of people riding them that I really thought about it - is it more 
>> comfortable than drop bars, even if I have a more neutral (not aggressive) 
>> position on the bike (i.e., bars close to level with saddle)?  Would thi

[RBW] Upright / Relaxed / Swept-Back - Style of Riding

2024-05-08 Thread Jay
I was always aware of bikes with a very relaxed geometry / setup, and it 
wasn't until I started seeing Rivendell bikes and watching youtube videos 
of people riding them that I really thought about it - is it more 
comfortable than drop bars, even if I have a more neutral (not aggressive) 
position on the bike (i.e., bars close to level with saddle)?  Would this 
be a good option for just cruising around, but for 1-2 hours?  If I didn't 
get along well with flat bars on mountain bike, would swept back bars be 
better?

I'm going to ramble a bit here, my apologies in advance.  I haven't thought 
long enough about this to formulate my question succinctly.  Hopefully you 
get where I'm coming from.

*Quick background*
- been riding a little over 20 years (closing in on 50!)
- started with mountain biking (hardtail, singletrack); moved to road; 
tried mountain biking two more times (I love being in nature) but didn't 
like the thrill/danger, and hated the idea of driving to the trail head; 
have been mainly on the road for last 15 years, though with 10 years of 
'gravel' bikes/riding
- I've had ongoing issues with my cervical spine (nothing serious) and this 
leads to some problems when riding in any sort of aggressive position on 
the bike; I see a chiro regularly; stretch a lot; workout / strength 
training; have had numerous bike fits
- I have a Roadini, Salsa Fargo and a road bike (25mm tires, but custom 
made and really does fit like a glove, for road)
- I don't care about performance at all, I just love riding bikes, in 
particular when roads are not busy, or on trails, gravel roads, etc.

On a good day (75% of the time), I can ride any of these bikes and during 
the ride I feel pretty good (little to no pain), maybe a bit of pain after 
(could be neck/shoulders, but anywhere else really), and after stretching I 
feel great in a 1/2 to full day.  I ride 4-5x a week, workout 1-2 times 
spring-fall and more in the winter.  

But at least once a week, and maybe twice, I'll be riding, sometimes tired 
as it's after work, and within an hour I'm running low on energy and 
probably start to develop a bad posture on the bike, over-using my arms 
which causes problems in my neck and shoulders, leading to upper body 
aches/pains (while riding, and after).  Takes a lot of stretching and 
awareness to reset.  *This is what I'm trying to resolve (move from 75% to 
99%)*

My guess is that even with a bike like the Roadini or Salsa, with bars 
about level with the saddle, and even with a professional fitting on each, 
when I want to ride but I'm lacking energy, it goes poorly.  But is that 
because these bikes are "kind of" aggressive (when compared to say a spine 
angle closer to 70% and swept back bars)?  Or is it simply a combination of 
age, history of some 'issues', low on energy and thus bad posture kicks in, 
and would any bike be a joy to ride, or should I just go for a walk on 
those days!?

I would love to hear from those who ride both drop bars and also swept back 
(or similar) in a way more relaxed geometry, or those who transitioned to 
mainly this style, because it almost fully resolved your issues, if they're 
anyway similar to mine.  *On a day when you're not feeling it, but you have 
to commute or just love to ride, do you leave the drop bar bike in the 
garage and hop on your more relaxed bike, and thus avoid most of the issues 
you would have had on the other (slightly more aggressive) bike?*

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[RBW] Re: Blue Lug Build Catalog

2024-05-03 Thread Jay
Before I purchased a Riv I spent some time on their site, and those builds; 
really well done.  I watched their videos, including those in Japanese, and 
they're very enjoyable.

On Thursday, May 2, 2024 at 3:14:41 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> If you're wondering "How do I tastefully build and specify a bike?" this 
> is the *perfect* place to start. They also do a great job with the 
> photographs, some of the best out there. 
>
> On Thursday, May 2, 2024 at 3:13:45 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>
>> Oh yeah, this is a gallery I have bookmarked. So many great builds and 
>> lots and lots of inspiration. They always nail it, great ideas abound! 
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 10:27:09 AM UTC-4 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Many of you may already be aware of this, but Blue Lug has a nice 
>>> catalog of all it's Riv Builds for customers. In the even you want some 
>>> inspiration for your next build, or just want to see some different takes 
>>> on each frame, have a look:
>>>
>>> https://bluelug.com/bike-catalog/model/rivendell-bicycle-works/
>>>
>>> If you click the dropdown in the top right corner and scroll down to the 
>>> Riv section you can even filter for specific models. Been super helpful as 
>>> I accrue the things needed for my upcoming 56cm 2TT Sam I scored from Abe 
>>> on here.
>>>
>>> Hopefully helpful for folks looking to build out that next frame or 
>>> rebuild your old favorite!
>>>
>>> - Drew
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Scam alert? I'm so confused. Blue Homer in LA? ND?

2024-05-03 Thread Jay
I feel for those of you who have been scammed.  Hopefully, karma plays out 
for them, and perhaps you'll have a 'win' in the near future that makes up 
for it.

I'm almost to the point of quoting any online used buy/sell activity.

I've bought/sold bike stuff, and a few other categories of items, on kijiji 
for 10-15 years.  Pre-covid, didn't do too bad.  Most items would go in 1-2 
weeks, a lot of views, responses were generally positive even if a sale 
didn't occur.  Most who did respond, got back to you even if they decided 
to pass on the item.  Likewise, I would message on things I was interested 
in, and most sellers were respectful and good to deal with.  During covid, 
selling was a piece of cake.  Now, sigh, about 90% of the interactions I've 
had are with pinheads.  People who in one minute seem so interested "I can 
be there today between 3-4pm", and when you say you're working, how about 
after dinner, you never here another word from them (this has happened with 
8 out of the last 10 interactions).  I've had items listed for months with 
no activity.  I may donate a bunch of things to a bike collective or 
not-for-profit and hopefully the old parts (mainly saddles and stems) will 
go to a good home.  I'm a really positive person, but it's hard to be 
positive with a lot the online activity these days (and these are not 
scammers, just, pinheads!).

Buy/Sell looks great on this site.  I'm in Canada though so that's a bit of 
a challenge (though I do use cross border pick up site, and it works fine, 
both directions), plus I'm at my budget for spending on bike things, for 
now, and I have most of what I want.

On Friday, May 3, 2024 at 11:07:48 AM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> @Roberta and Eric -
> Let me clarify how I was scammed. I posted here last July wanting to buy 
> Blue Lug's
> *REW10 WORKS* hex brass valve caps here in the states to save myself some 
> monies in overseas shipping costs. 
>
> Anita Batya saw my post and claimed that she had a pair. Anita told me 
> that she lived in Seattle, of which is relatively close to me (This was a 
> lie. She lived in Pennsylvania after doing some online homework after the 
> fact). If I wanted them, she requested me to make a payment through a third 
> party email address of which she claimed it was her bookkeeper. Anita told 
> me that she was waiting for an answer from Paypal for a refund. I sent 
> her money (I forgot what amount it was $50.00~?) several times. This kept 
> going in circles over and over again. By then, I felt that there was 
> something mighty strange and peculiar going on. I caught on that I was 
> being scammed. I did not respond back to her. This was my first time being 
> scammed over something that I really wanted. My apologies for there might 
> be some holes left out from my recollection of my interaction with Anita. 
>
> Later down the road, there was other members herein and over on the IBOB 
> group being scammed by Anita. Skip Montanaro, the administrator accepted 
> Anita 
> Batya's membership. When I told Skip that she was/is a scammer, he quickly 
> took action and denied her membership.
>
> https://groups.google.com/g/internet-bob/c/5FXmDXVSG6c/m/yGCjPQ3KBAAJ
> https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/WRzS3bBRKcc
>
> Kim Hetzel. 
>
> On Friday, May 3, 2024 at 7:24:11 AM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> The "Jeff" in question reached out to me in response to a WTB post. I 
>> asked what his "Friend" was selling and he said a 60cm Homer, which I 
>> thought was strange considering my post specifically said 54/55/56cm. 
>>
>> A quick check to see that he'd never posted in the forum and I assumed it 
>> was nefarious. 
>>
>> On Friday, May 3, 2024 at 9:20:37 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Kim: I don't see how the administrator of this forum has any bearing on 
>>> someone's Facebook post. The scam is potentially occurring via Facebook, 
>>> not our forum. You reposted the FB listing here with a link. 
>>>
>>> Regarding the Blue Lug purchase, how on earth were you "scammed" by Blue 
>>> Lug? They are one of the best bike shops in the universe and I'm sure they 
>>> would correct any mistake or problem with your purchase. I dislike like the 
>>> implication that Blue Lug would scam anyone. 
>>>
>>> Regarding scams and buying/selling: If anything about the listing or 
>>> your interactions with a seller makes you uncomfortable or sets off 
>>> *any* alarms just drop the exchange and walk away. It's easy! If it's 
>>> too good to be true, it probably is. Although sometimes you have to know 
>>> when to snag a deal like when someone posts a Nitto S83 seatpost for $30. 
>>> Sellers should be happy and eager to share photos or details about frames 
>>> or bikes for sale. 
>>>
>>> Here on the forum it's easy to check someone's history simply by 
>>> searching their email address and reviewing their past posts to see if they 
>>> participate in discussions, buy and sell goods and you can get a 

Re: [RBW] FS: Supernova dynamo lights

2024-05-01 Thread Jay Lonner
Both sets of lights have been claimed. Thanks for all the interest.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Apr 28, 2024, at 7:43 PM, Jay Lonner  wrote:Up for sale here are two sets of Supernova lights that are takeoffs from our Bike Fridays (Bikes Friday? What would William Safire say…). Each set includes a black anodized E3 Pro 2 headlight and Tail Light 2. The headlights are on Multimounts , and have spade connectors for a SON dynohub along with factory wiring to power the taillights. Mounted once, never used. Great lights, but dealing with the taillight wires really isn’t practical for bikes that will be broken down and reassembled frequently. We’re going to stick with dynamo headlights and USB rechargeable taillights. Each set would run ~$250 new, I’m looking for $125 per set, and I’ll cover the shipping. Willing to sell them separately.Jay LonnerBellingham, WA



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[RBW] FS: Supernova dynamo lights

2024-04-28 Thread Jay Lonner
Up for sale here are two sets of Supernova lights that are takeoffs from 
our Bike Fridays (Bikes Friday? What would William Safire say…). Each set 
includes a black anodized E3 Pro 2 headlight and Tail Light 2. The 
headlights are on Multimounts , and have spade connectors for a SON dynohub 
along with factory wiring to power the taillights. Mounted once, never 
used. Great lights, but dealing with the taillight wires really isn’t 
practical for bikes that will be broken down and reassembled frequently. 
We’re going to stick with dynamo headlights and USB rechargeable 
taillights. 

Each set would run ~$250 new, I’m looking for $125 per set, and I’ll cover 
the shipping. Willing to sell them separately.

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell (Roadini) Geometry

2024-04-28 Thread Jay
Thanks for the messages.

I still have about 15mm I can push the saddle forward, just have to switch 
saddle bags.

I've been between sizes before, always made the larger one work.  Smaller 
bike, not as well (25mm setback post and 120mm stem make for a strange 
ride).

I've had bike fits, as recently as two months ago; how I sit on a saddle 
always surprises the fitter and we push the saddle forward.

I've been on some 3-4 hour rides and it's pretty comfy, just need to make 
this tweak.

On Sunday, April 28, 2024 at 11:43:11 AM UTC-4 Tony Lockhart wrote:

> Hi Jay,
> Sorry to hear that things aren't working at the moment. Have you thought 
> about getting a professional bike fit? Or perhaps making various 
> adjustments and documenting them over and extended period time?
>
> FWIW, I'm also on a 57cm Roadini with 170mm S!lver Cranks, Nitto 65 seat 
> post, and Brooks Professional saddle (86pbh, 5'9", longer legs shorter 
> torso). When I called Riv last winter, Grant mentioned that I'd be happy on 
> a 54 or 57 Leo depending on how much exposed seat post I'd be willing to 
> live with. In practice, I find that I need to push the saddle all the way 
> back in order to get comfy. I'm surprised to hear that you're pushing it 
> forward, but I'm guessing not all Brooks' are made the same. Like Brent, 
> I've also got a Hillborne (mine is a 56cm frame from 2009; same saddle, 
> crank, seat post as my Leo) and I'm super comfy on it. Keep in mind that 
> I've figured out what works for me during the past 14 years of ownership of 
> the Sam, and the Leo is very similar in size and riding characteristics. 
>
> I hope you get things dialed in.
> Tony
>
> On Saturday, April 27, 2024 at 7:23:08 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:
>
>> I've been enjoying my first Riv, a Roadini, since getting it in February. 
>>  Just one thing I feel like I'm struggling with, saddle set back.
>>
>> It's a size 57, I'm 5'11 and my PHB meant a 57 or 54 would work.  It came 
>> with the setback seat post and that put me really far behind the BB 
>> compared to my other bikes, so I got a zero offset post and that helped 
>> things, but I'm still running my Brooks C17 pushed 3/4 of the way forward 
>> on the rails.  Funny thing is my Salsa Fargo, which has a 73 degree ST 
>> angle, vs. 72 on the Roadini, running the same saddle, and less set back 
>> (also on a zero offset post).  I can feel the difference when I'm pedaling; 
>> on the Fargo, my pedal stroke feels really good.  On the Roadini it feels 
>> like the pedals are out in front and I'm over-using posterior chain in an 
>> unnatural pedal stroke.  I measure setback on both bikes and the Fargo is 
>> coming out as saddle 5.5cm setback from BB, 7cm on the Roadini.
>>
>> Anyone else notice this?  I may try pushing the saddle all the way 
>> forward on the rails, then maybe set post up a bit, but wanted to ask this 
>> question first.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>

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[RBW] Rivendell (Roadini) Geometry

2024-04-27 Thread Jay
I've been enjoying my first Riv, a Roadini, since getting it in February. 
 Just one thing I feel like I'm struggling with, saddle set back.

It's a size 57, I'm 5'11 and my PHB meant a 57 or 54 would work.  It came 
with the setback seat post and that put me really far behind the BB 
compared to my other bikes, so I got a zero offset post and that helped 
things, but I'm still running my Brooks C17 pushed 3/4 of the way forward 
on the rails.  Funny thing is my Salsa Fargo, which has a 73 degree ST 
angle, vs. 72 on the Roadini, running the same saddle, and less set back 
(also on a zero offset post).  I can feel the difference when I'm pedaling; 
on the Fargo, my pedal stroke feels really good.  On the Roadini it feels 
like the pedals are out in front and I'm over-using posterior chain in an 
unnatural pedal stroke.  I measure setback on both bikes and the Fargo is 
coming out as saddle 5.5cm setback from BB, 7cm on the Roadini.

Anyone else notice this?  I may try pushing the saddle all the way forward 
on the rails, then maybe set post up a bit, but wanted to ask this question 
first.

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Rivendells in South Korea

2024-04-22 Thread Jay
Hi Marcus.  I’ve really enjoyed all your videos so far; great start! 
 Refreshing to see vlogs in another part of the world.  Korea looks very 
interesting.

On Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 1:10:28 PM UTC-4 probablyri...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello fellow Rivendell enthusiasts,
>
> I'm Marcus, I live in Seoul, South Korea and am probably riding one of my 
> Rivs around. I recently started a Youtube channel and thought some people 
> on here might be interested in seeing it. I have some bike checks of my 
> Clem, Romulus, Atlantis and Velo Orange Polyvalent but it's mostly 
> showcasing what cycling in Korea is like. 
>
> I hope it's ok to post here and hope you enjoy!  Probably Riding - YouTube 
> 
>
> Thanks for all of your discussions on this group!
>
> Marcus
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Roadbike Curious

2024-04-22 Thread Jay
I haven’t read all the posts (so many, wow!) but I suggest trying a bike 
with drop bars to see if it’s a possibility for you.  A friend, or an lbs 
perhaps.  If the bike fits you well the bars might feel great, or something 
you think can grown on you with time.  Bad fit and likely the bars wouldn’t 
feel good, so that wouldn’t be a fair assessment.

I love my newish Roadini.

Good luck!

On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 3:33:50 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I’m starting to wonder about a roadbike. But it has to be a Rivendell 
> roadbike because I’m loyal and all that. Anyway, I don’t know that the 
> Roadini really offers enough of a change for me. I have no idea what is 
> going on with the Gallup. Then there’s the Roadeo - that one looks great 
> but there’s a 2 year wait, unless I can find one used. Which would be 
> ideal. 
>
> Who rides their Rivbike in club rides and what do you ride? Who has a 
> Roadeo that never gets ridden and wants to sell it? I don’t even know what 
> size I’d be but I’m an 81 PBH. Must I ride drop bars? I never have before. 
> I know nothing about any of this. Clearly.
>
> Note: I still like my raspberry Platypus for club riding but it does take 
> a toll on me in wind. I recently got a shorter-height, longer-reach stem 
> which marginally helped, but our high spring winds are taking it out of me. 
> I did a club ride yesterday with my women’s group and my heart rate was in 
> the 170s the whole 26.3 miles. It was brutal. Everyone else agreed it was a 
> hard ride, but I felt like it was harder on me than them, and I’m the 
> youngest and probably the most fit. 
>
> Leah
>

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Re: [RBW] Rivendell Roadbike Curious

2024-04-21 Thread Jay Lonner
Interestingly I just went through a similar process, and considered many of the bikes already mentioned (Roadini, Lightning Bolt, Pescadero). I wound up buying a Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross. It just arrived last week and I’m gathering parts for the build. The plan is drop bars, SRAM Eagle 1x12 drivetrain, RH Snoqualmie Pass tires with the new RH TPU tubes (so I’m following that thread with interest too). What sold me on the Monstercross are the canti studs (I don’t care for centerpull brakes) and brazeons for a rando rack. BB is a little higher than comparable bikes, which isn’t surprising for bike with cyclocross DNA, but I’m hoping it will work out for more spirited road rides while still able to handle non-technical singletrack. But then I read Diana H.’s epic bikepacking trip reports on her Platypus and it makes me think that I’m probably overthinking things (I’m prone to that) and that Lance was right — it’s not about the bike. But it is fun to experiment!Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Apr 21, 2024, at 8:57 AM, Mathias Steiner  wrote:Forgot to say:If there's a co-op nearby, you'll find kindred spirits and a likely a few bicycles to try. Not a bad place to start the search for something used. On Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 11:51:03 AM UTC-4 pi...@gmail.com wrote:I haven't seen the Gallop's geometry,. Can you post it?As for Leah's original question, my wife rode a Cheviot but after she rode my son's Roadini to work a few weeks she decided that she really liked the Roadini better.We're still vainly hunting for a 50cm Roadini, but the other bikes I'm considering are the Ritchey Logic Road (max 30mm tires, short chainstays), the Crust Malochio (mismatched brakes are putting me off but what's worse is that it has 650b wheels in her sizes which limits choice of fast tires), and the Soma Pescadero (compromised handling geometry compared with the Roadini). We'll probably have to decide this summer as to whether to wait for the Roadini or go for a Gallop. One more option is the R Cycles Rainier. All of these bikes would be bikes I would buy frame only because the Bay Area has specific riding needs that default drivetrains made for flat country are worthless for.On Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 8:42:48 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:- "Would they love it as a road bike? Or is it kind of all-purpose? Thanks!"Rivendell makes stuff to be pretty flexible so even the Roadeo "could" be built out to be kind of all-purpose but the geometry and intent of the Gallop is to be a road frame that replaces the Roadini. My prototype is pretty light and very lively. I assume the production ones will be as well because the geometry should be the same it just has a straight bar vs a swoop. I think while its not a step through the angled bar will allow it to be more flexible with fitting.On Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 11:07:13 AM UTC-4 leva...@gmail.com wrote:Hi Leah!I think you would dig a Crust Canti-Lightning Bolt as a complementary addition to your wonderful stable of Rivs - not only for the ride quality, but you can get a cool Lilac (with pink graphics) or Light Sea Green frame in your size now.  I own this bike, and it is light, quick, and fun to ride, and can easily accommodate up to a 650B x 48 tire.  But wait there’s more….in older Riv road bike style, the Canti-Bolts have flat top tubes, threaded headsets, and a gorgeous curved fork.  This is a low-trail Rando bike for sure - even the 650B wheels, etc.  This is a fun bike!  I’m a Riv head for sure, but I really enjoy a long faster road ride on the Crust every now and then.  Crustbikes.comGood luck in your search,GuyOn Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 7:01:14 AM UTC-6 David Hays wrote:Good morning Leah,I’m not sure where I read it but apparently Grant had at one point been a fan of Mercians.A few years after I bought and built up my 650B Homer I found a used Mercian KOM on Craigslist. I’ve since picked up another off the list and had one purpose built for me. Very comfortable and fast. Some thing to consider.Cheers,David On Apr 21, 2024, at 12:17 AM, Josiah Anderson <anderso...@gmail.com> wrote:Hi Leah,I'm also excited to hear about your journey towards a road bike; you probably don't know it but your writing on this list was one of my main influences towards ending up with a Riv. Drop bars and pavement are very familiar, comfortable territory for me, and – like others have said here – I still enjoy that type of riding at times.You're probably already familiar with him, but if not, I'd recommend checking out some of Jan Heine's work – Bicycle Quarterly, The All-Road Bike Revolution, his blog, etc. Bicycle Quarterly was my point of departure from "mainstream" bike culture, and I came around to appreciating Riv a bit later and now enjoy both approaches for different rides. Jan is much more focused on speed than Grant is, but in what feels to me like a healthy way. This is an old blog post that I think may be worth a read, as i

Re: [RBW] Hello from Ireland

2024-04-14 Thread Jay
Hello Nick - welcome!

I would like to see photos.  Ooo, and Videos, if you don't mind, both of 
the city and countryside ;-)

Seriously though, would LOVE to see some vlogs from Ireland :-)

On Sunday, April 14, 2024 at 4:08:26 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Welcome! I think you are the only Irish listmember. Please post photos of 
> your rides and routes. Five or six years ago my daughter spent 10 days or 
> so in Ireland with a high school chorale group and did the usual tours by 
> coach outside of Dublin; lovely scenes. I had vague thoughts of flying out 
> with a bike at the same time to do a tour but it came to nothing.
>
> I know we have at least one Japanese listmember who posts beautiful ride 
> photos, and of course the list includes riders in all parts of the US 
> posting hugely varied scenery, but I don't know of any other European 
> members, let along another Irish one. Perhaps we had a Scottish listmember 
> a few years ago, or did he post on the iBoblist?
>
> Patrick Moore, in the cottonwood bosque along the Rio Grande in the middle 
> of the Southwestern US high desert.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 14, 2024 at 1:42 PM Nicholas A  wrote:
>
>> Hi guys,
>>
>> My name's Nick from Dublin, a reformed racer, proud owner of an Appaloosa 
>> with an A Homer Hilsen in the pipeline as well. I have a few other bikes in 
>> the stable as well, a couple of Mercians namely. One is in bits, and a lot 
>> of those bits are on the other. 
>>
>> Can't say I've seen a lot of Rivs in Ireland but I did chat to a guy on a 
>> lovely Quickbeam recently.
>>
>> When I got the Appaloosa first I had Albatross bars on it but have a 
>> stubby stem and 48cm Noodles on there now, I much prefer them. I guess you 
>> can take the boy outta the road but you can't take the road outta the boy. 
>>
>> Anyway, happy to be here, I've been enjoying reading everyone's posts and 
>> hope I can contribute something.
>>
>> Nick
>>
>> [image: IMG_8523.jpeg]
>>
>>
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f0b86c79-179a-4fce-b351-33040d121e56n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>

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[RBW] Re: Silver shifters, v1 vs. v2

2024-04-01 Thread Jay
I'm sure that is frustrating!  I feel for you.  I don't like when anything 
mechanical is not functioning up to par.

I only have experience with Dia-Compe Ene 11s.  They slipped once on me, 
without realizing what was happening.  I got home, googled it, figured it 
out and only had to tighten the 'd' ring and that has so far solved the 
problem.  I bought loc-tite but haven't used it.

Good luck!

On Monday, April 1, 2024 at 11:13:13 AM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:

> Ian,
> I had slippage with Silver v2 set up on my Clem. I used Loctite and it 
> solved the issue for awhile then they slipped again. After switching to 
> Microshift I not longer had any slippage. I am not an experienced bike 
> mechanic so my installation may have been off with the Silvers but the 
> Microshift worked for me.
> Doug
>
> On Saturday, March 30, 2024 at 9:37:26 AM UTC-4 ian m wrote:
>
>> I have completely disassembled and reassembled more than a couple times, 
>> both intentionally and un. I have run my set on both the downtube and 
>> bar-ends on more than one bike, and my wife has a set on the bar-ends of 
>> her Hillborne. We have broken so many plastic washers trying to keep them 
>> from slipping that I have multiple back-up bags.
>>
>> On checking the Riv product page now it looks like the complete shifters 
>> come with a "new and improved" plastic washer that isn't available 
>> separately. Can anyone speak to an improved user experience? I have the 
>> older L/R version rather than the newer X/O version also.
>>
>> I do think these shift fantastically and are in every way superior to the 
>> Sunrace shifters I used previously, it's only the slippage that grinds my 
>> gears.
>>
>> On Friday, March 29, 2024 at 11:09:11 PM UTC-4 Pam Bikes wrote:
>>
>>> I'm not sure if I have the v1 or v2 but probably the v1 and earlier but 
>>> I've never had slippage.  You do have to line up the square piece when 
>>> installing them and get the plastic washer lined up too but after that it's 
>>> tight enough to hold.  The exploded view that Eric Marth will help show you 
>>> the critical points of contact to line up.  I do know the plastic washers 
>>> break after a while but that's usually when the bike falls and the shifter 
>>> takes most of the force of the fall.
>>>
>>> On Friday, March 29, 2024 at 6:56:26 PM UTC-4 ian m wrote:
>>>
 I love the look of the Silver1 shifters. IMO they are the platonic 
 ideal whether on downtube or bar-end. Yet I find in my experience the 
 performance refuses to meet the aesthetic quality. Try as I may I can't 
 get 
 the shifter to stay put. Loctite or beeswax, slippage, then 
 over-tightening. There's still no better option than the plastic washer? 
 Hoped the brass bit over the plastic would protect it, no such luck they 
 always crack. I'm tired of trying to make these work. 

 Do the newer Silver2 shifters improve in performance where they've... 
 let's just say changed in aesthetics? It reads as though they have the 
 same 
 internals which I would assume is the issue. While they do have a look 
 that 
 maybe only a mother could love I'm willing to give them a shot if it's a 
 noticeable difference.

 I am index curious but not sure I'd want to pay the Dura-Ace bar-end 
 price rather than making the all-out switch to brifters. Any thoughts or 
 advice welcome.

>>>

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[RBW] Re: NBD - Purple Appaloosa

2024-04-01 Thread Jay
I also love this post!

I was in C Cycle, home of the Bassi and noticed the Bloomfield.  That 
caught me eye in your write up so I thought I would mention.

That purple is amazing.  Enjoy!

On Monday, April 1, 2024 at 12:55:20 PM UTC-4 mrg...@gmail.com wrote:

> Great story and pics, thanks for sharing Dan. Congrats on the new bike. 
> It's making me want to put rons bars back on the atlantis. 
>
> mike in austin tx
>
>
> On Monday, April 1, 2024 at 2:44:46 AM UTC-5 Dan wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone, I’d like to share the story of my new purple Appaloosa. I’ve 
>> gained a great deal of insight and enjoyment from reading this forum, so 
>> it’s only right that I return the favour with a story of my own.
>>
>>
>> From the first time I had heard that there was a company called 
>> Rivendell, I knew that someday I’d be riding one. I’d avidly read Tolkein 
>> in my childhood, so to hear that there were LotR themed bicycles - and that 
>> they were so beautiful! - was just fascinating to me. The more I read about 
>> the bikes and the philosophy, the more I was convinced. The final straw was 
>> coming across ‘Calling In Sick Magazine’, aka the unofficial Rivendell fan 
>> magazine. Reading the stories and looking at the photos of those people 
>> riding on dry hills near the ocean, in terrain not to dissimilar to what I 
>> ride here in Adelaide, Australia, gave me the impetus to make my dream a 
>> reality.
>>
>>
>> So, why did I choose an Appaloosa? To answer that, here is a little bit 
>> about the other bikes in my stable…
>>
>>
>> *Surly Straggler*
>>
>> This was my first ‘nice’ bike, the first bike I actually did any research 
>> on before buying. I bought it to be my only bike and a do-it-all bike, one 
>> that would be reliable and fun both day-to-day and on riding anywhere and 
>> everywhere when I felt like adventure. In that, it’s met all my 
>> expectations and then some. It’s set up with a rack and fenders as a 
>> commuter, but over time I’ve tweaked it with wider, flared drops, fatter, 
>> more supple rubber and lower gearing to suit my increasing desire to 
>> explore. I’ve ridden this bike on two (metric) centuries, countless 
>> suburban explorations, in the rain, on gravel, and on single track. It does 
>> it all, more or less. I’ve never liked the looks of the stack of spacers I 
>> needed to get the bars high, and the gearing is probably a bit high, though 
>> that has made me stronger. Descending on the dirt, even with the flared 
>> drops, is a whole-body workout. Side note - I actually wanted a Cross 
>> Check, but they weren’t available to order in Australia when I bought this 
>> bike.
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_0580.jpeg]
>>
>>
>> *Bassi Bloomfield*
>>
>> It took a while to allow myself the thought that it was ok to have more 
>> than one bike. I’d been browsing Blue Lug and watching Terry Barentsen 
>> during the pandemic and fell in love with the idea of 650b, fat tyres, 
>> upright bars and front baskets. The day after I’d decided that I could get 
>> myself another bike, my local bike shop listed a whole bunch of Bassi 
>> frames for sale. The clearance for wide 650b tyres and the flower head tube 
>> graphic sold me instantly!
>>
>> This bike has been a revelation for me. There’s something about it - the 
>> wide bars, the light frame, having no gears - that just clicks with me. 
>> It’s like the bike is hard-wired into my brain. And the basket! It’s so 
>> practical. More than that, though, this bike looks great. It’s a bike that 
>> non-bike people complement me on. And it sold me on how good it feels to 
>> ride upright.
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_8340.jpeg]
>>
>>
>> *Why Appaloosa?*
>>
>> Which brings me to the Appaloosa. In the last two years I’d begun to the 
>> explore the range of hills that flank Kaurna country / the Adelaide plains. 
>> I like riding from my door, winding through the suburbs to a trail head, 
>> then climbing and exploring the trails, going a little further each time. I 
>> wanted a bike that would be fun to ride on the road but more comfortable 
>> and capable off it than my other bikes. In short, I wanted a touring bike, 
>> and the Appaloosa seemed like it. I liked that the 2.2” tyres looked like a 
>> balance of speed and comfort, and the long chainstays promised to smooth 
>> out bumps and make hair-raising off-road descents more palatable. Spoiler 
>> alert: both of these things were true!
>>
>>
>> I’ll spare you the story of sourcing the frame. I’ll only say that I 
>> initially hesitated on the purple colour, which in hindsight was absolutely 
>> ridiculous. Purple is my favourite colour and THIS purple is amazing. It’s 
>> perfect.
>>
>>
>> *First Impressions*
>>
>> I picked up the Appaloosa on Thursday after my bike shop kindly managed 
>> to get it ready before the Easter long weekend. Since then, I’ve taken the 
>> bike on a couple of long rides and a handful of short ones. The long rides 
>> include a 50km-or-so out and back along the linear trail of 

Re: [RBW] Re: I have questions

2024-03-27 Thread Jay Lonner
Currently bikepacking in the Sonoran Desert (Sky Islands West loop) and have had no problems keeping my devices charged up with the combination of a SON dynohub, Sinewave Beacon, and Goal Zero solar panel and battery pack. As others have said the key is to use the charging sources to power the battery bank, it does a better job handling the varying current inputs. Jay LonnerBellingham, WA (but currently camped out in the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge)Sent from my Atari 400On Mar 27, 2024, at 7:48 AM, Wesley  wrote:When I go on a two day ride, I just put my phone in airplane mode. It (a five-year-old iPhone) will stay charged for more than a week that way. When I need to use it for anything other than a camera, I take it off airplane mode. As Max suggested, you can also carry an external battery for charging in a pinch.-WesOn Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 6:10:14 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:I have had some of the same questions tumbling about in my brain as I wait for the last of the parts for my Gravel & Travel Platy. I just got back from a warm and delightful weekend of cycling in Philadelphia. I, a newly minted Michigander, was happy to return to the shire, and for that, I was welcomed with Second Winter. Michigan is over here, doing me dirty. I’m prevailing upon you to humor me and answer my questions, because a lot of you are having spring and flowers and sunshine, so this is the least you could do!I got the 50 cm Platy to take on trips. Will fit in the van better, will fit on Amtrak, be easier to shove in elevators, that sort of thing. But the tires I have on hand are 48 mm Gravel Kings. They are almost new. I’m considering taking a train to a ride this summer, but that means no Racing Platypus, only the purple one can fit. Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road ride pace? I have 42 on all my other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is a 2 day event, 100 miles total. I’d like to keep the tires if I could, because they’re new and they are fat enough to also double as gravel tires, should I decide to do a gravel ride again. But I do more road rides than anything else, and if those 48s will cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s. What’s the consensus?Basket straps. I have the Nitto Basket Rack and even though I’ve disliked it in the past, I figure it’s pretty and I already own it and I might need a front rack for travel. But do I really have to put the ugly strap from bar to basket? Is the Nitto Basket Rack safer than the Mark’s Rack? I know Sergio was thrown when his Mark’s Rack loosened and hit the front tire and he’s missing significant chunks of front teeth! What is everyone doing about their front racks?Lights. I have an Edelux light. It’s not the right color for this build, but it’s perfectly good. But sometimes I think, “wouldn’t it be nice to have a light that would charge your phone?” The Sinewave Beacon 2 will do just that, but it sounds like it’s not a great road light. What are people using to charge phones on long rides away from home?I ordered my wheels today. This, because J at the Velocity booth in Philly talked me into them when he heard about the theme of my build. Here’s a sneak peek.And thanks for helping me out here! It’s good to hear people’s experiences and points of view!Leah



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[RBW] Re: I have questions

2024-03-19 Thread Jay
Those are really nice looking wheels and I, and I'm sure everyone, looks 
forward to seeing the final build.

I was going to comment briefly about tires, though I've only got a handful 
of years on large volume tires on the road (before I was strictly a roadie, 
with 25mm's).  I don't feel a big difference going from 25 to 30, I do feel 
a difference going up to a 43 (GKSS).  What's interesting is I don't feel a 
huge difference going from 43 to 55.  In the last few weeks alone I've had 
a chance to ride all the bikes and wheels/tires I have, and this was my 
observation about tires as I was thinking about this during and after the 
rides.  "Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road ride pace?"  If you can do 
this on a 42, comfortably, I think you can do so on a 48 (maybe play with 
the pressure a bit, to get what works best for speed/comfort balance).  I 
used the 43's on a ride with my speedy friend a month ago and I kept up, 
felt pretty comfortable (particularly on descents), but I had to work 
harder...so I would also recommend a good fuelling strategy for your 2-day 
event.  Good luck!

Weather :-( I'm just outside Toronto and we're getting second (first?) 
winter here since Saturday.  I know how you feel.  And the forecast doesn't 
look great for next 1-2 weeks.  I'm getting out on the 55 tires more, 
pumping them based on conditions and appreciating I have them and these 
wider tire bikes, or I would be stuck on the trainer with a road bike 
(yuck).

On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 9:10:14 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I have had some of the same questions tumbling about in my brain as I wait 
> for the last of the parts for my Gravel & Travel Platy. I just got back 
> from a warm and delightful weekend of cycling in Philadelphia. I, a newly 
> minted Michigander, was happy to return to the shire, and for that, I was 
> welcomed with Second Winter. 
>
> Michigan is over here, doing me dirty. 
>
> I’m prevailing upon you to humor me and answer my questions, because a lot 
> of you are having spring and flowers and sunshine, so this is the least you 
> could do!
>
> I got the 50 cm Platy to take on trips. Will fit in the van better, will 
> fit on Amtrak, be easier to shove in elevators, that sort of thing. But the 
> tires I have on hand are 48 mm Gravel Kings. They are almost new. I’m 
> considering taking a train to a ride this summer, but that means no Racing 
> Platypus, only the purple one can fit. Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road 
> ride pace? I have 42 on all my other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is 
> a 2 day event, 100 miles total. I’d like to keep the tires if I could, 
> because they’re new and they are fat enough to also double as gravel tires, 
> should I decide to do a gravel ride again. But I do more road rides than 
> anything else, and if those 48s will cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s. 
> What’s the consensus?
>
> Basket straps. I have the Nitto Basket Rack and even though I’ve disliked 
> it in the past, I figure it’s pretty and I already own it and I might need 
> a front rack for travel. But do I really have to put the ugly strap from 
> bar to basket? Is the Nitto Basket Rack safer than the Mark’s Rack? I know 
> Sergio was thrown when his Mark’s Rack loosened and hit the front tire and 
> he’s missing significant chunks of front teeth! What is everyone doing 
> about their front racks?
>
> Lights. I have an Edelux light. It’s not the right color for this build, 
> but it’s perfectly good. But sometimes I think, “wouldn’t it be nice to 
> have a light that would charge your phone?” The Sinewave Beacon 2 will do 
> just that, but it sounds like it’s not a great road light. What are people 
> using to charge phones on long rides away from home?
>
> I ordered my wheels today. This, because J at the Velocity booth in Philly 
> talked me into them when he heard about the theme of my build. Here’s a 
> sneak peek.
>
> And thanks for helping me out here! It’s good to hear people’s experiences 
> and points of view!
> Leah
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Abomination? Riv Road "upgrades"

2024-03-19 Thread Jay
I looked up those BTLOS wheels, very affordable and generally good reviews.

My road bike has Dura-Ace C24, which I believe are just over 1400g.  When I 
start more road rides in the spring I'm going to try out the Roadini, in 
rides with my faster friend, and see how I do in comparison to my road 
bike.  One day, I may use this wheelset on the Roadini and that may tip the 
scales to this being my road bike with this wheelset, and the main wheelset 
with 43mm's being the all-road bike.

On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 11:48:07 AM UTC-4 bfd...@gmail.com wrote:

> I think carbon wheels have come a long way!  I recently bought a set of 
> BTLOS carbon rim brake wheels and love them! They hold up to my 200lb 
> weight, are aero (45mm deep rims), and super light (the wheelset came with 
> a listed weight of 1305g - 729g rear and 576g front)! That's tubular wheel 
> weight! The weight was a surprise as the estimate they gave when I finished 
> selecting the parts was 1325 +/- 25g, so I was expecting 1350g! 
>
> Still the wheels have been fantastic and with Reynolds blue carbon pads, I 
> find the braking to be excellent, although I haven't ridden them in the 
> wet. There's little to no flex and they seem to hold up to everything I put 
> them through as I do occasional rides on gravely roads. 
>
> I'm now thinking maybe I should get a set for my Della Santa, which has 
> standard 32h Mavic Open Pro rims and Campy Record hubs...lol 
>
> Of course, YMMV! 
>
> Good Luck! 
>
> On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 7:57:32 AM UTC-7 josh.yo...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Do whatever makes you happy! I have carbon bits on my Homer so we can be 
>> abominations together.
>>
>> Josh
>> Seattle, WA
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ride Reports - Where You Defied the Weather

2024-03-19 Thread Jay
I agree - thanks for sharing John.  Japan is on my bucket list (for a trip 
in general, cycling as part of the trip would be a bonus).

On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 1:55:47 PM UTC-4 Keith P. wrote:

> What a rad adventure.
> Thanks for posting a link to the rest of the ride write-up.
> k.
>
> On Mon, Mar 18, 2024 at 8:36 PM John Rinker  wrote:
>
>> Short Version: While technically not riding at the time, I was on a ride 
>> circumnavigating Yakushima Island when I was flooded out of my tent and 
>> forced to setup camp for 16 hours in an accessible toilet in Japan.
>>
>> PENCIL-
>>
>> Longer Read: Yakushima, an island off the southern tip of Kyushu in Japan 
>> is home to the oldest cedar (sugi) trees on the planet and it boasts the 
>> highest annual rainfall in Japan, between 4 and 10 meters per year. That's 
>> right, meters!
>>
>> In the Spring of 2021 I went back to Yakushima for a second ride around 
>> the island 
>> <https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/ZXuY-9kMJ-8/m/pE-UMLk8DAAJ>. 
>> For several weeks before the trip I began to watch the weather. According 
>> the the Japanese weather reports, which are the most reliable I've ever 
>> used, a big rain was coming during my second night there. 
>>
>> So, I began to plan for this. After I get off the ferry and visit 
>> Shiratani Gorge where some of the oldest cedars on the island reside on 
>> steep slopes, I would head for Anbo. From my last visit, I remembered a 
>> beautiful public park high above the town. Camping in public parks is 
>> permitted- well, not frowned upon- and in Japan such parks are replete with 
>> amenities like 'The World's Cleanest Public Restrooms'. This would be where 
>> I'd weather the predicted 12-15cm of rain. 
>>
>> Fast forward several weeks and I'm riding into the park I remembered. 
>> What made it most memorable is a world-class 400m running track. On a 
>> remote island! In a town of about 8000 people! I find a spot on the lawn 
>> among the blossoming cherry trees(sakura), and there's a small gazebo. My 
>> tent is on the lawn and ready for rain, but if things go sideways I'll duck 
>> into the gazebo.
>>
>> Right on time, a light rain begins while I cook dinner and the sun goes 
>> down. I eat then walk around in the drizzle to enjoy the sakura at 
>> twilight. As the rain picks up its pace, I tuck my bike and gear in the 
>> gazebo and zip myself into my cozy tent. The rain dances on the taut nylon 
>> and soon I'm asleep.
>>
>> In the dream my tent is flowing down hill towards a small cluster of 
>> houses. When the tent comes to a stop, I unzip the fly and a couple of old 
>> friends are there looking over a map. As I greet them I feel as though I'm 
>> on a waterbed. Suddenly, I'm awake in darkness and pelting rain. My old 
>> friends are gone as is the cluster of houses. But I still feel like I'm on 
>> a waterbed. I reach both arms beyond my pad and feel the tent's waterproof 
>> floor. The coated fabric ripples. Now I'm fully awake sloshing about the 
>> waterbed, deflating the air mattress and stuffing clothes and sleeping bag 
>> into a nylon sack before the water seeps through the floor.
>>
>> I unzip the tent and dash through the torrent for the gazebo with all my 
>> gear. The gazebo is sturdy but old and the roof has not been looked after.  
>> As much rain falls on my bike and me as on the tent. Eariler, I scoped out 
>> the bathroom about 600m away (Plan C), and now stuffed everything in my 
>> Wald, hopped on the bike and pedalled (paddled?) through a 5cm of pond that 
>> stretched from the gazebo to the restroom on the other side of the running 
>> track. I'd come back for my tent in daylight.
>>
>> The toilets offered a men's and a women's rooms. In between was a larger 
>> room for wheelchair access. Certainly this was the least used of the rooms, 
>> so I'd sleep here. I slid back the door to reveal, even in the dark, a 
>> gleaming facility (much cleaner I'm certain than most hotel rooms in North 
>> America.) And dry! I filled my Thermarest, rolled out my sleeping bag and 
>> drifted off feeling pretty pleased with myself for having a Plan C. 
>>
>> The next morning the rain had intensified. I ate breakfast and sipped 
>> coffee while I awaited a break in the rain so I could retrieve my tent. The 
>> break didn't really come until about 4pm that afternoon. So, I hung out, 
>> read, cooked, drank tea and enjoyed the variety of small creatures who also 
>> found the wonderful restrooms to be a good Plan C. By 5pm, my sodden tent

[RBW] Re: Abomination? Riv Road "upgrades"

2024-03-18 Thread Jay
I like it!  Splash some red, maybe bar tape, and it all works together 
nicely.  I had my first ride on some Corsa Pro tires and agree, they are 
fast.

On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 5:49:35 PM UTC-4 reynoldslugs wrote:

> Eric - 
>
> go for it, ride it, enjoy it.
>
> I  have a lovely 2003 Rivendell Custom. 
>
> In its first iteration, I put Mavic Ksyriums on it.
>
> Admiittedly, it looks better without the Ksyriums -  
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/albums/72157625808579123/
>
> but I was happy riding them for a while, the bike still road great.  I got 
> some funny looks but kept going.
>
> Story of my life, as it were -
>
> anyway, enjoy your bike.
>
> best,
>
> Max Beach
> Santa Rosa CA
>
>
>
> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 7:57:32 AM UTC-7 EGNolan wrote:
>
>> I'll give lots more background on the backstory and handwringing that led 
>> to this if you want, but long story short: I scored a mismatched (different 
>> eras, different materials, different depths) set of Zipp wheels extremely 
>> cheaply recently and decided to turn my Bosco'd 650b conversion Riv Road 
>> back into a road bike set up for road riding. Pairing the wheels with some 
>> on-sale Vittoria Corsa G2.0 in 32 width made the bike smoother than with 
>> 650b x 42 GravelKings and loads faster. Is it an abomination? Heresy? Who 
>> knows? Who cares? It's fun, lighter and I'm enjoying the set up for now 
>> (though I may need a larger chainring now...)
>>
>> Enjoy (or not):
>>
>> [image: IMG_8312.JPG]
>>
>> Best,
>> Eric 
>> Indpls
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ride Reports - Where You Defied the Weather

2024-03-18 Thread Jay
I liked your video John - thanks for sharing.  Looked like a nice route.

Nick - good proof of what I wrote about ride memories, that was 40 years 
ago and you shared some good details that I could easily visualize.

On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 5:19:58 PM UTC-4 Nick Payne wrote:

> About 40 years ago, when I was a racing cyclist, I rode in an early season 
> spring race (three laps of a 50km circuit) that started in nice sunny 
> conditions with the temperature somewhere around 60-65F, so we all started 
> in shorts and short sleeves. Towards the end of the second lap, the wind 
> started to pick up and rather black clouds started rolling in, and shortly 
> after we started the final lap, it started to rain and the temperature 
> dropped quite noticeably. With about 30km left it started to hail and the 
> wind increased and the temperature dropped further. By the time we finished 
> (in dribs and drabs, my wife who was at the finish line told me that the 
> largest bunch she saw finishing was three or four riders), there was 
> several inches of hail on the ground, and my fingers were so cold that I 
> couldn't feel what I was touching. I was shaking uncontrollably, and had 
> real trouble undoing my toestraps so that I could get my feet out of the 
> pedals. I saw some cyclists who couldn't manage to get their toestraps 
> loosened at all - when they came to a halt, they just toppled over 
> sideways. It's by far the coldest I can remember getting on a bike in over 
> half a century of cycling.
>
> Nick Payne
>

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Re: [RBW] Ride Reports - Where You Defied the Weather

2024-03-17 Thread Jay
Where riding and work meet to make for interesting stories is memorable 
indeed.  That sounds so different from where I live, other than the wind.

My first bike as an adult was a Kona Blast, and I had two wheel sets.  I 
remember trying to keep up with my brother in law one day with the road 
wheels, a 40k road ride in windy conditions, him on his new Trek road bike 
(trying to ride like Lance lol); I was about 40 pounds heavier but that 
didn't matter, I was going to suffer on that bike, against him on his road 
bike.

On Sunday, March 17, 2024 at 4:23:49 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Nothing epic here either, but I'll play. This incident sticks in my memory 
> as one of those incidents that you laugh about for the rest of your life.
>
> Probably 30 years ago, young, spry 38 or 39 year old, working in Gallup, 
> Four Corners NM, outskirts of the Navajo Reservation. Took long lunch 
> break, early April, for ride. Spring winds had Sprung up. Winter layoff; 
> fat, tired, and weak. Took the hotrodded 1991 Specialized Stumpjumper Team 
> with "road" wheelset (1 of 3: road, commuting, dirt): 559X 0.9" Specialized 
> Turbos, 48/38/26 triple (Topline?) and 12-19 7 speed cassette, (22 mm tires 
> on 19 mm OW rims = 24" diameter X 48/12 = 96" high). Rode east on Rte 66 
> with howling spring westerly behind me, big ring and small cogs, 27-28 mph, 
> thought, "Not bad, not bad, I'm in good shape!" 12-13 miles to where 66 
> disappeared into eastbound I-14. Turned around to go back.
>
> NM spring westerlies are beasts!
>
> Tailwind became headwind. Started in 38, used up cassette, admitted defeat 
> and got into the 26. Plugged away, ran out of water, plugged away until I 
> got back to office. 
>
> Exhausted, red eye from dust and wind, cramps in quads and calves, and 
> also abdominals. Cramped standing up, bent over, cramped bending over. Had 
> local-access TV show that evening (Gallup, NM; small time doesn't begin to 
> describe it, but I was PR Director for the area HC system). Went on air at 
> ~6 pm with cramps and red eyes. Never learned about the Nielsen ratings.
>
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 9:29 AM Jay  wrote:
>
>> Some of my most memorable rides involved bad weather.  I recall many 
>> moments from a ride close to 20 years ago, where halfway into a 60k ride it 
>> started snowing, a lot.  I rode home 30km in what accumulated to 5cm of 
>> snow, on 35mm tires.  I used a small backpack with a water bladder and the 
>> hose froze and I was out of water/food.  I stayed upright. I smiled most of 
>> the time (when I wasn't displaying fear when cornering), and realized that 
>> such rides can bring one a lot of joy.  On the flip side, I probably had 
>> 20-30 rides last year in perfect weather...can't recall one detail.
>>
>> I would love to read your ride reports where defied the weather.  I have 
>> one below, from this morning's ride.
>>
>> *"Winter's Revenge"*
>> *Distance*: 40km
>> *Elevation*: 400m
>> *Temperature*: -2C to +1C
>> *Disclaimers*: no photos (use your visualization skills!); lot's of talk 
>> about non-riv bike
>>
>> I woke up at 6am and checked the latest weather report on my phone while 
>> lying in bed: snow/rain showers starting at 8am, wind gusts up to 50km.  
>> The radar showed a blue/green blob heading towards me.  
>>
>> On Friday I had taken the afternoon off to ride, it was 15C with very 
>> little wind.  Had a great ride on Leo (Roadini; aka Goldilocks).  Didn't 
>> ride yesterday (Saturday).  Rest of the week looks pretty bad (and I'm 
>> working, so limited time to ride).  I had to ride this morning...
>>
>> Went downstairs and checked out the current conditions: it was still 
>> dark, moderate wind, dry roads.  I made tea and did my morning loosening up 
>> (stretching) routine as I contemplated which bike to take, scouring the 
>> multiple weather sites.  Leo, with her rim brakes, double drive train, and 
>> 43mm smooth tires, or the Fargo with her 2.2" tires, mech discs, 1x.  I'm a 
>> bit "soft" when it comes to my bikes so I opted for the Fargo (just 
>> couldn't put Leo through what might be some crappy weather).  Neither bike 
>> has fenders (but they're on my future acquisition list).
>>
>> I rolled out in the dark, just as the sky was brightening.  It rained 
>> last night but as the wind was picking up and I was riding right into it, I 
>> took some shortcuts on tree-lined gravel paths sheltered from the wind.  
>> After 30 minutes the wind was a steady 20-30km/h and I can see dark clouds 
>> in the distance.  They were not all too distant though, as within a few 
&

[RBW] Ride Reports - Where You Defied the Weather

2024-03-17 Thread Jay
Some of my most memorable rides involved bad weather.  I recall many 
moments from a ride close to 20 years ago, where halfway into a 60k ride it 
started snowing, a lot.  I rode home 30km in what accumulated to 5cm of 
snow, on 35mm tires.  I used a small backpack with a water bladder and the 
hose froze and I was out of water/food.  I stayed upright. I smiled most of 
the time (when I wasn't displaying fear when cornering), and realized that 
such rides can bring one a lot of joy.  On the flip side, I probably had 
20-30 rides last year in perfect weather...can't recall one detail.

I would love to read your ride reports where defied the weather.  I have 
one below, from this morning's ride.

*"Winter's Revenge"*
*Distance*: 40km
*Elevation*: 400m
*Temperature*: -2C to +1C
*Disclaimers*: no photos (use your visualization skills!); lot's of talk 
about non-riv bike

I woke up at 6am and checked the latest weather report on my phone while 
lying in bed: snow/rain showers starting at 8am, wind gusts up to 50km. 
 The radar showed a blue/green blob heading towards me.  

On Friday I had taken the afternoon off to ride, it was 15C with very 
little wind.  Had a great ride on Leo (Roadini; aka Goldilocks).  Didn't 
ride yesterday (Saturday).  Rest of the week looks pretty bad (and I'm 
working, so limited time to ride).  I had to ride this morning...

Went downstairs and checked out the current conditions: it was still dark, 
moderate wind, dry roads.  I made tea and did my morning loosening up 
(stretching) routine as I contemplated which bike to take, scouring the 
multiple weather sites.  Leo, with her rim brakes, double drive train, and 
43mm smooth tires, or the Fargo with her 2.2" tires, mech discs, 1x.  I'm a 
bit "soft" when it comes to my bikes so I opted for the Fargo (just 
couldn't put Leo through what might be some crappy weather).  Neither bike 
has fenders (but they're on my future acquisition list).

I rolled out in the dark, just as the sky was brightening.  It rained last 
night but as the wind was picking up and I was riding right into it, I took 
some shortcuts on tree-lined gravel paths sheltered from the wind.  After 
30 minutes the wind was a steady 20-30km/h and I can see dark clouds in the 
distance.  They were not all too distant though, as within a few more km it 
started snowing.  As it was just below 0C the snow switched between soft 
flakes to hard pellets, but wasn't all that bad at that moment.

I wanted to keep riding as I felt a lot of confidence on the Fargo, with 
her wide tires and disc brakes.  I only had one small water bottle, so I 
decided that I was going to ride a bit longer and another bottle would be 
nice, and maybe a snack, so I chose my route and rode further west, away 
from home (into the wind and weather system that was now upon me, but with 
a halfway point in mind in a town with shops).

After a small roadside break, the wind started gusting to 50km and the snow 
pellets were coming down strong, and sideways; thankfully the snow was 
melting, leaving the roads very wet, but not slippery (at this point I was 
glad Leo was at home, clean and out of trouble).  Next few km were uphill, 
into the wind, with the snow at its strongest point.  I pulled up my neck 
gaiter to cover my cheeks from the sharp pellets.  I rang my bell a few 
times and laughed out loud; a very clear moment I'll recall for some time.

At the halfway point I turned right into town and caught some tailwind, and 
a bit of sun.  I filled my water bottle and bought a Snickers at a gas 
station.  Still snowing but not as bad.  The wind also died down a bit; of 
course, I'm now riding home, down hill and down wind.  Last 20km home were 
on soaked roads, riding through puddles at times, but as it was still 
early, very little traffic and the sun ahead of me, peaking through the 
clouds here and there.

When I got home the chain was dripping in black gunk.  A quick wipe with a 
shop rag and I brought the Fargo down to the basement for cleaning.  I've 
never had a bike so easy to clean: huge clearances mean wiping down the 
frame is a breeze.  One chain ring is easier to clean than two.   I look 
over to Leo, happy again that she stayed home.

I'm thankful I have the Fargo as it's not just my trail bike (I don't 
like/own flat bar mountain bikes, so this bike's main role is no 
non-technical trails in town), but is also my all-weather bike (to a 
certain point, but studded tires and fenders may be installed next winter). 
 If I didn't have the Fargo I probably would have still went for the ride 
on Leo, but when the weather turned I would have been thinking too much 
(rim brakes, cornering on slick-ish tires, and the clean up afterwards, of 
this beautiful bike), and may have turned around early.  I'm fortunate to 
own a few bikes.

That's it!  I realize this was far from epic, but I got a lot out of the 
ride (mentally) and wanted to share.  I look forward to reading your tales, 
epic or otherwise 

Re: [RBW] Goals for 2024 (will they be S.M.A.R.T. ?)

2024-03-10 Thread Jay
Bill - that is amazing what you've already done in the first two months of 
the year!  Happy 55th!  My favourite of your goals is summiting Mount 
Diablo 5x on 5 different bikes.  I watch a lot of YouTube cycling videos, 
some from California, and it looks amazing (I'm in Ontario, an hour outside 
Toronto; I love where I live and ride, but often envious of what you have 
there in California). 

I work for a large company where it's all about goals; I get it, and 
S.M.A.R.T. is the way to go.  That said, when I ride a bike I'm not just 
disconnecting from technology, day-to-day problems, work, and anything else 
that needs disconnecting from, but when I ride it's like I'm a different 
version of myself.  This is where I get to go with the flow, not have a 
plan (or I have one, deviate from it, and often!), pause or take a break 
for any old reason, get really deep at times (in my mind), and at other 
times just be present with little thoughts other than observing what's 
around me.  I smile a lot when I ride.  I stress about nothing (99% of the 
time).  As this feeling (state) started to evolve over years of riding, 
I've done away with goals, for the most part.  I may have a goal of a 
multi-day ride to a destination, and I really enjoy planning for such 
rides; however, that is where my work-mind kicks in and I have lists, 
plans, a calculated mindset.  I do enjoy the pre-work aspect, though on 
those rides I let my other self lose control (not take control!).  Like I 
said, this has evolved over a long time and I didn't realize it was 
starting to happen until I looked back after a few years and realized it 
did.  I wonder if when I retire, will I enjoy employing some of that 
big-corporation thinking into cycling again?

On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 11:22:02 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> At the beginning of the year I listed several S.M.A.R.T. goals:
>
> 10,000km ridden. (on-pace, over 500 miles/month in rainy Jan and Feb)
> Summit Mount Diablo 5 times on 5 different bikes (on pace, 2 done, one 
> more next Saturday)
> Put myself in the position to attempt my first 400k brevet (DONE!  I 
> finished two 200s and the 300k yesterday)
> Complete the Marin Mountains 200k brevet (It's in June)
> Complete 25% of every city in Contra Costa County on Wandrer  (on pace, I 
> knock out 100 new miles each month)
> Complete 25% of Marin County on Wandrer.  (I'm picking this up in earnest 
> after Contra Costa is in order, but I snuck in a few wander miles while 
> doing the 300k yesterday)
> Ride 55 miles on my 55th birthday and kick off riding my age on my 
> birthday as a regular event  (done!)
>
> Hopefully yours are going well also.  
>
> BL in EC
>
>
> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 10:42:01 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> "I think you meant "timely" instead of "timply" in your SMART acronym?"
>>
>> Indeed I did.  S.M.A.R.T. goals are a regular thing.  I didn't make up 
>> the acronym.  It's a common technique to ward off gloom and depression. 
>>  Therapists, life coaches, etc frequently recommend these things.  The 
>> great thing about it is that it's kind of self-customized.  You can line up 
>> your goals to meet the realities of your life.  
>>
>> Simple (sometimes people use Specific).  It just means it's something 
>> very clear and not ambiguous.  "Have more fun" doesn't fit.  "Be healthier" 
>> doesn't fit.  "Go to the gym twice each week" is specific and easy to know 
>> whether you did it or not.  That kind of thing
>>
>> Measurable just means it's objectively certain whether you did it or not. 
>>  There's no judgment in an objective measurement.  "lose 5 pounds" is a 
>> measurement.  
>>
>> Achievable means it'll take a little effort but if you try you'll do it. 
>>  10,000km this year is achievable for me in my current life set-up, but it 
>> does mean I'm going to have to try.  In comparison, for 2023 I barely made 
>> 3000 miles, under 5000km.  
>>
>> Relevant means it's something to build towards some other larger 
>> objective that is important to me.  My fitness goals are all aimed at 
>> extending my life and maximizing my quality of life.  
>>
>> Timely means it can happen in a reasonable amount of time.  "Ride 200,000 
>> miles in my life" is not timely.  "Live to be 90" is not timely, but it may 
>> be an outcome that is helped along.  I'm knocking out tiny smart-goals 
>> almost weekly.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>> On Friday, January 5, 2024 at 9:39:22 AM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:
>>
>>> The trouble is that too many other things interfere with my biking - 
>>> yard work, home repairs and routine maintenance, auto repair and 
>>> maintenance, and of course, the weather which can be unpredictable, 
>>> especially in these latitudes.  IIRC the last 100 miler I rode was 
>>> something like 2007, the last 100K was maybe a year or two later.  During 
>>> those years I managed to squeeze around 1,500 miles out of the biking 
>>> season (Spring, Summer, & Fall).  Not any 

Re: [RBW] Re: Question for Cheviot Owners

2024-03-08 Thread Jay Lonner
My wife has a 55cm Cheviot that hasn’t seen a lot of use — she’s happier on an e-bike. We’re not necessarily looking to sell, but if this is a rare/desirable model I’m sure she’d have no problem selling it somebody who will ride and appreciate it more.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Mar 8, 2024, at 8:09 AM, KC  wrote:I love my 50 cm Cheviot (2015). My first good bike and it changed riding for me. I may be considering selling because my husband will likely be getting a Clem L or Platypus and I will need to be able ride the same terrain as him so I may want bigger tires.   On Friday, March 8, 2024 at 6:53:30 AM UTC-8 elizabeth...@gmail.com wrote:I'm a proud Cheviot owner -- it was my first Riv, actually, purchased in 2020 from the fine folks at Maine Bike Works -- and can say with confidence that I will never part with it. : ) My guess is I'm not alone! On Friday, March 8, 2024 at 7:56:19 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:My completely wild guess with no facts to back it up - when has this ever stopped me?! - is low volume. The timeline you describe is pre-pandemic boom and, I think, pre-the more widely held acceptance of low stepover frames as a thing dudes ride. Now there's Clem Ls and Platys as far as the eye can see - we don't even have the Clem H anymore - because Riv hit their bike boom and everybody rides low step! *obligatory shots of my low step custom and step-through ClemOn Friday, March 8, 2024 at 4:35:13 AM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:Recently a James on this List wanted a 60 cm Cheviot. Pam (who always wants everyone to find their Rivendell and get riding) asked me to help find one. I knew it would be difficult, and while I didn’t find him one, Kim found him TWO, and in James’ preferred color. Happy ending. Anyway, it seems to me (I might be wrong) that Cheviots are rarely for sale. I think they were made from 2014-2019, so they did have a good run. Is it that their owners keep them? Or are there really just so few? Maybe more of them belong to women, and maybe women don’t sell bikes as often as men do? Why is it so hard to find a Cheviot on the used market? This is what I want to know.Leah



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Re: [RBW] Re: Hub recommendations for Velocity Cliffhangers

2024-03-05 Thread Jay Lonner
I think the real use case for using a dynohub while bikepacking is to keep USB accessories topped up. Yes yes, one should try to unplug while in the wilderness etc., but being able to access .gpx files or use routefinding apps like Ride With GPS is clearly synergistic with the traditional map/compass/cue sheets.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Mar 5, 2024, at 9:06 AM, Brian Turner  wrote:I don't backpack, so a dynamo is unnecessary.Although I am certainly glad to have it, the bike I use the most for bikepacking is probably the one I use my dynamo light on the least. Probably because on multi-day trips, I rarely find myself biking through the darkness for long periods of time. Typically, I am riding most of the daytime, and usually am at camp (or wherever) well before the sun sets. I find a dynamo setup to be incredibly practical for those bikes you hop on the most, for anything and everything; commuting or traveling on streets with traffic, riding around with friends at night, etc.Ok, sorry to go off-topic!On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 11:37:44 AM UTC-5 Richard Rose wrote:Rear Cliffhanger on my Gus is built with this Bitex hub. It’s been very good for the first 2k miles.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 4, 2024, at 1:24 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:I find the Analog review of the Bitex hub to be very accurate. They are very close to the WI hubs at a small fraction of the cost. Amazing at quality and price but with zero hyper around them.On Monday, March 4, 2024 at 11:43:54 AM UTC-5 gril...@gmail.com wrote:My Appaloosa is being built up with a Bitex rear touring hub. Wheels are being built up this week - I'll report back once they (and the bike) are ready!On Sunday 3 March 2024 at 09:56:15 UTC+10:30 Josh C wrote:I'd recommend a set of white industries hubs if you are looking for something more high-end. Smoothest hubs I've seen. On Saturday, March 2, 2024 at 6:04:12 PM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:I second Deore LX! I had those front & rear until I laced up a front wheel with a Kasai FS dynamo hub.On Saturday, March 2, 2024 at 2:11:58 PM UTC-8 aeroperf wrote:I like the Deore LX trekking equipment.  A rear hub would be FH-T670.Quiet and bulletproof.  I’ve laced them to Velocity Atlas and Velocity Dyads.For a front hub, I tend to use Shimano 105s because they are reliable and reasonably cheap.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Trip Report: Death Valley February 2024

2024-03-04 Thread Jay Lonner
What a fantastic trip — thank for the great writeup. I’ve been wanting to cycle Death Valley as well so this will be a very useful resource as I plan my own future adventures.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Mar 4, 2024, at 7:13 AM, Bill Schairer  wrote:Thanks for the great report!Bill S San DiegoOn Sunday, March 3, 2024 at 9:39:25 PM UTC-8 Keith P. wrote:Sounds like an amazing trip!k.On Mar 3, 2024, at 8:33 PM, Diana H  wrote:Is there a way to post photo's? I tried to post just a single photo and kept getting error's that the message was too long. So here is a link to some photo's.https://photos.app.goo.gl/m6ymTWsmPXiiwr8P9 On Sunday, March 3, 2024 at 8:19:20 PM UTC-8 Diana H wrote:Map: https://www.gaiagps.com/map/?loc=9.6/-116.8781/36.7032=GJ70zopvv3HDAIv6yQW94aTs=09fa1491-18a7-4735-83a2-eb164d4ba0ba

Total miles: ~165 miles Total Elevation Gain: ~14,400 ft  

Intro: 

The inspiration for this route came from the Bikepacking.com- Echo-Titus
Canyon, but Titus Canyon is currently closed to all traffic (including
bicycles), so we were looking for a way to extend our tip another day. We added
Rhyolite
Canyon from the Dirty Freehub.

 

Bicycles

Diana’s Bike - 2022 Platypus (50 cm, 38x24 crank, 650Bx43mm GravelKing
SK Knobby tires, Nitto Choco handlebar, and a 9-speed cassette)

Ran’s Bike – 2023 Kona Sutra (stock parts except the
tubeless 2.1 inch tires)

Mikes Bike – 2022 Salsa Cutthroat (stock parts, 2.2 inch tubeless
tires)

 

Day 1. Rhyolite RumbleTotal Miles: 46Average Speed 8.6mphWe drove from Reno to Spicer Ranch. Spicer Ranch is an amazing
campground and the owner runs it entirely on donations. Clean bathrooms, hot
showers, picnic tables, what else could you ask for? Please donate if you stay
here. Our plan today was to ride load-less and ease our way into
the trip. We arrived at Spicer Ranch a little after 10am and were biking by
10:45am. The first few miles went by quickly and we passed by several old mines.
There is endless gravel to ride out here and you could easily spend the day
exploring mine to mine. The road is pretty tough in places, but this is how it
will be the entire trip.The excitement of beginning our adventure (and being
unloaded) had us riding fast. We had great views riding toward Grapevine
Mountains on amazingly packed gravel. I would get a flat somewhere along here
but patched it up and moved on. The views would continue but the road would deteriorate into
more sand than gravel and had us pushing on a few occasions. Ran took a spill during
a moment of lapsed attention when his tire hit the side of a wash. Luckily it
was a slow fall and Ran would ride away with minor scratches. Later on in the
day we hit some washboards and I was going too fast and I got a pinch flat.
Patched that too, but the pinch flat happened right next to the valve and the
patch didn’t hold. Replaced the whole tube just before Rhyolite. This whole
time we saw nobody else on the trails.Rhyolite Ghost town is very interesting and they have a lot
of eccentric statues/sculptures. Worth a visit here if you find yourself in the
area. There were a lot of tourists here and it was little jarring after
spending the whole day by ourselves. 









The night caught us and to try to get back to camp quicker,
we abstained from the gravel and rode back on highway 95. This was very
unpleasant as it’s a 2-lane highway with 70 mph speed limits. Most everybody
passed us with as much room as they could spare, and we could always hop onto
the gravel sides if we needed. Once back at Spicer Ranch, we set up camp, ate
our dinners, and all fell into peaceful sleep.Day 2: Spicer Ranch à Chloride City à Furnace Creek à Echo CanyonTotal Mileage: 66 MilesMax Speed: 34.5mphAverage: 8.7mphThis was a physically hard day!  We wanted more gravel riding today, so we decided to take Chloride City Road to meet up with Death Valley Road. The road to Chloride City is all uphill, riding on somewhat loose gravel, and many parts so sandy some pushing was needed again. The scenery did not disappoint though! Mike found a license plate from 1932! We harbored thoughts of going to see Chloride City Ghost Town, but upon seeing that Chloride City was another 2000 feet of elevation gain and having just climbed a very difficult 1500 feet, we opted to skip it.We thought we were going to be golden once we got to the turnoff to go down, but the decent from Chloride City road is difficult. Thank goodness it was downhill because otherwise we would have had to push our bicycles 50% more. It was extremely sandy and only the cars with the fattest of tires would be safe driving this path.Once we hit Daylight Pass Road it was jarring to fly down pavement to Hells Gate Viewpoint (my max speed was almost 35 mph and I’m sure I pumped the breaks). We snapped a few photos then turned left and went down Beatty Cutoff Road. Again, we would fly down this road (dropping 2500 feet!) hitting Highway 190.Riding on Highway 190 wasn’t the 

Re: [RBW] FS - Alex Singer LS wool jersey

2024-03-04 Thread Jay Bird
SOLD :-)

On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 2:02:23 PM UTC-7 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> PM sent. 
>
> –Eric N
>
>
> On Feb 24, 2024, at 9:00 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Sheesh, I'm very tempted just for the front pockets, but someone just gave 
> me a very nice LS wool jersey. Long ago I did have a retro-production *Cycles 
> Wolfe* ss wool jersey with front pockets; I think Wolfe was an ancient 
> Belgian team and, probably, marque. I see that current ones don't have the 
> front pockets any more.
>
> It's a good thing that it's probably a bit large for me.
>
> On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 9:51 AM Jay Bird  wrote:
>
> Hey there, 
>>
>> I have a new Alex Singer jersey bought from Alex Singer cycles in Paris, 
>> France summer of 2022.  It says it's size '7' - laid flat from pit to pit 
>> it measures 21" so probably around an XL (which is what I usually wear). 
>>
>> Front and rear pockets.
>>
>> Shipped CONUS $125 
>>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>
>> -- 
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>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d8ce48be-3c78-4802-a523-ca03590e20cdn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>
> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Sit Bone Width and Saddles

2024-02-29 Thread Jay
Thanks for the thoughts, and humour ;-)

Josiah - I had a Pro saddle a couple years ago, it was okay, but didn't 
work on that particular bike at the time (wish I still had it).

Ted - I noticed the Soma Ensho a month ago when scanning saddles (brown 
ones, for the Riv) and I didn't see availability.  On my radar though!

George - I've been sampling some (Amazon), and this has proved a wise move 
as I've returned 5 or so saddles in the last year (kept a few too).  When 
I've got a good deal at an LBS, like I did with the Brooks, I'll take the 
risk.  Usually I can sell for a small loss, depending on the saddle, but 
the used market is tough these days (at least up here in Canada).

Funny (good) thing this morning with the Brooks, I put it on my Fargo (that 
I use on mixed-use trails in my town) and went for a short ride this 
morning.  I didn't wear bib shorts.  Just some compression-type boxers with 
no seams in the wrong places, tights (was -5C) and went for a ride on the 
trails behind my house (just a few km in one direction, but I went back and 
forth for about 30 minutes).  Saddle was very comfortable!  Maybe it was 
because I wasn't wearing bibs that have just don't work for me.  I recall 
posts on another thread I started about dealing in a Brooks, where people 
mentioned not wearing padded shorts, that stuck with me and I gave it a 
shot.  I didn't have any sit bone pain, perineum discomfort and no 
friction.  I was on/off the saddle a lot (and the bike, clearing blown over 
branches) and maybe that helped...as it wasn't a 1hr+ ride of constant 
pedaling.  I'll stick with this set up for a while and see how it goes. 
 Maybe it's those darn bib shorts giving me grief (I've tried many over the 
years, with plastic saddles).  I'll report back after a few rides.

On Thursday, February 29, 2024 at 5:15:02 PM UTC-5 ttoshi wrote:

> Rivet saddles used to allow you to try a bunch of their saddles before you 
> chose one to keep.  I'm not sure if they are doing that nowadays...
>
> Toshi 
>
> On Thu, Feb 29, 2024 at 1:45 PM George Schick  wrote:
>
>> The trouble is that experimenting around with these different saddle 
>> widths, lengths, "scoops," or whatever in order to find the right fit can 
>> run into a lot of money.  Most of these saddles, Brooks especially, aren't 
>> cheap and having to buy and try one only to find that it doesn't work for 
>> you can be a difficult decision.  Too bad that someone hasn't developed a 
>> "saddle fit" device like the "fit kit" where one could experience the ride 
>> of all these different kinds of dimensions. But that's probably an 
>> impractical idea...
>> On Wednesday, February 28, 2024 at 6:45:42 PM UTC-6 Jay wrote:
>>
>>> I'll preface this by saying I know saddles are highly subjective, and 
>>> what works for one may not work fo you.  What I wanted to ask about is 
>>> "general thinking".  Just wanting to confirm some thoughts I've had about 
>>> this...
>>>
>>> My sit bones are 125mm apart.  I've had them measured a few times.  This 
>>> is when I'm sitting upright.  I believe general rule is the more upright 
>>> you are on the bike, the wider you go with the saddle (e.g., if I'm 90 
>>> degrees/straight up, add a few cm; aero, maybe just one cm).  Any other 
>>> logic to share with respect to sit bones and saddle width?
>>>
>>> My saddle is level with tops of my bars (on two of three bikes).  This 
>>> puts me in a comfortable position, maybe 60 degrees when I'm in the hoods.  
>>> All three bikes have drop bars, but only the older road bike has bars below 
>>> the saddle.  My neck and upper back feel great in this position, and I've 
>>> previously had issues in this area, so that's a victory.
>>>
>>> I'm still dialing in my Roadini, but for now I have a WTB Silverado on 
>>> there (135 wide).  It's maybe a little narrow, but I've done 2hr rides and 
>>> felt fine (pedalling is not impeded at all, and it's comfortable in the 
>>> nether regions).  Feels like my sit bones are close to the edge but I can 
>>> feel around there and know there is just enough room to spare.  I've had 
>>> that same saddle on another bike and that was also fine.  Not a big fan of 
>>> the edges on that saddle, as it's very flat across and feels like it's 
>>> digging in a bit (a cm further out than my sit bones), but I'm trying to 
>>> sort that out and not really my point with this post (just sharing for 
>>> context).  Reason I went with this 135mm saddle is my previous 147mm 
>>> Prologo felt too wide, and the cut out was digging in the nether regions.  
>>> So I tried something more narrow and I 

[RBW] Sit Bone Width and Saddles

2024-02-28 Thread Jay
I'll preface this by saying I know saddles are highly subjective, and what 
works for one may not work fo you.  What I wanted to ask about is "general 
thinking".  Just wanting to confirm some thoughts I've had about this...

My sit bones are 125mm apart.  I've had them measured a few times.  This is 
when I'm sitting upright.  I believe general rule is the more upright you 
are on the bike, the wider you go with the saddle (e.g., if I'm 90 
degrees/straight up, add a few cm; aero, maybe just one cm).  Any other 
logic to share with respect to sit bones and saddle width?

My saddle is level with tops of my bars (on two of three bikes).  This puts 
me in a comfortable position, maybe 60 degrees when I'm in the hoods.  All 
three bikes have drop bars, but only the older road bike has bars below the 
saddle.  My neck and upper back feel great in this position, and I've 
previously had issues in this area, so that's a victory.

I'm still dialing in my Roadini, but for now I have a WTB Silverado on 
there (135 wide).  It's maybe a little narrow, but I've done 2hr rides and 
felt fine (pedalling is not impeded at all, and it's comfortable in the 
nether regions).  Feels like my sit bones are close to the edge but I can 
feel around there and know there is just enough room to spare.  I've had 
that same saddle on another bike and that was also fine.  Not a big fan of 
the edges on that saddle, as it's very flat across and feels like it's 
digging in a bit (a cm further out than my sit bones), but I'm trying to 
sort that out and not really my point with this post (just sharing for 
context).  Reason I went with this 135mm saddle is my previous 147mm 
Prologo felt too wide, and the cut out was digging in the nether regions. 
 So I tried something more narrow and I no longer get that discomfort.

I do have a Brooks B17, and I've had one before on an older bike, and a few 
other leather saddles over the years.  What's attracted me to them is that 
I rarely got any friction or chafing, or sit bone pain.  I do set them up, 
nose up, so rear of the saddle is flat and I'm not sliding forward.  

However, the B17 is 35mm wider than the WTB, and 45mm wider than my sit 
bones, so I'm wondering if this saddle make sense for me...and anyone else 
with similar 'specs'. I've read/watched reviews where much bigger folks 
love the saddle (some hate it too, but that's maybe about 
leather/hardness).  Some of the reviews are from people who say their sit 
bones are 150+ apart.  That gives them 10mm on either side, vs. my 22.5mm 
per side.  I realize how we sit on the saddle, torso angle, etc., are 
different, but generally speaking...like do skinny people or those with 
somewhat narrow sit bones get along great with this saddle?  If so, is 
there a set up trick for them, that is different than someone with much 
wider sit bones?  I would say my problem with it is pedalling freedom, and 
not feeling impeded by the size of the saddle, the skirt, etc.  I can't say 
for sure that's my problem with it, just giving a theory.

I'll pause there, as I'll likely get some good questions/comments and can 
take it from there.  Thanks!

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[RBW] Roadini build vid..

2024-02-24 Thread jay gaudani
Sharing this vid I just saw. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfxOxZzvRuo=3s

I own roadini for 8 months and love it.

Jay

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Pictures Thread

2024-02-23 Thread Jay
Love these photos, and the contrasts in builds.  I have a Roadini (2 weeks 
old)...maybe a Sam will be in my future.

On Friday, February 23, 2024 at 11:01:56 AM UTC-5 Cal Patterson wrote:

> Here's mine in a light snow last fall.  2x9, fendered 42's.  Love the 
> upside down Billie bars.  It is such a great ride, handles like a dream.
>
> On Friday, February 23, 2024 at 7:37:13 AM UTC-8 jrst...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> [image: 05F29C48-D89B-4E95-818C-47654DE56CBA.jpeg]
>>
>> On Friday, February 23, 2024 at 12:30:19 AM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>
>>> I like this photo from last weekend for the rustic vibes 
>>>
>>> [image: Screen Shot 2024-02-22 at 9.26.02 PM.png]
>>>
>>> On Tuesday 20 February 2024 at 08:33:42 UTC-8 brianmark...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 48mm. I also had bilenky dimple the chain stays; it fit a 48 without it 
 but it was a tad close

 On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 11:30:09 AM UTC-5 Max S wrote:

> Oooh... I really like the look and the idea of this one!.. How bit a 
> 650b tire does it fit now? 
>
> - Max "wish I had friends with acetylene torches" in A2
>
> On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 9:27:07 AM UTC-5 
> brianmark...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Here’s mine, I’ve had it for two years or so. 56cm double tt, got the 
>> frame in this group, had a friend add canti bosses at 650b, and had it 
>> painted at Bilenky cycles in Philly. My favorite bike aside from my 
>> cargo 
>> bike, and I have to constantly convince myself it’s not the only bike I 
>> need. Currently in “rando” mode, but I’ve mostly had it with a basket in 
>> front and R14 in the rear. Really can do pretty much everything, and so 
>> comfortably! 
>>
>> On Monday, February 19, 2024 at 7:17:00 PM UTC-5 Tony Lockhart wrote:
>>
>>> [image: IMG_3348.JPG]
>>> 14 years and 4 months old...best bike I've ever had.
>>> On Saturday, February 17, 2024 at 11:36:22 AM UTC-8 Bikie#4646 wrote:
>>>
 Paul, I have a A.H. Homer for spirted mixed-surface riding. But I 
 figured I would get a 2015 (new) Sam Hillborne  for my touring needs. 
 It is 
 a bit stouter and capable for riding fully loaded, sometimes on dirt. 
 Confidence-building off road, mainly rail trails. I have it set up 
 with a 
 Nitto rear rack and a Rivendell HAR front rack. Two to four Ortlieb 
 panniers and a Sugarloaf basket bag will take me for 5-day unsupported 
 trips without worry..
 I love this bike as a dedicated tourer but often pull the rear rack 
 for local riding. I find the mustache bars with the 100mm stem allows 
 for 
 "stretching out" on longer days in the saddle. 
 I'm outfitted with 35mm tires because of the VO fenders, which I 
 find very helpful for mid-Atlantic and mid-West multi-day touring. I'd 
 love 
 to try it on the C Towpath with wider rubber, but would miss the 
 comfort 
 that fenders give.
 Here's my "Tuxedo Sam":
 [image: IMG_8012.jpeg] 

 Also:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikecrazy-paul/53503542529/in/dateposted-public/

 Paul Germain
 Midlothian, Va.
 On Saturday, February 17, 2024 at 1:24:03 PM UTC-5 velomann wrote:

> Here are some pictures of my Hillborne, 2020 model in "Dark Gold" 
> with Cantilever bosses and the seatstay "socket" lug.
> I purchased the frame new through Golden Pliers here in PDX and 
> built it up myself, including wheels.
> Build notes:
> Wheels - Rear White Industries T11 hub, front SON Dyno hub, 32h 
> laced with Sapim butted spokes to Velocity Dyed rims, currently 
> running 
> Panaracer Pasela Protite 650b x 42 tires with silver Velo Orange Wavy 
> fenders.
>
> Drivetrain - 2 x 9 with 170 Sugino XD2 triple crank with homemade 
> bashguard on outer ring, 38 x 24 middle/inner rings & 11-34 cassette, 
> shifted by Microshift thumbies,  Ultegra front and rear derailleurs 
> Jagwire 
> gold braided cable housing.
>
> Cockpit - Bosco bars and Nitto 130mm faceplate quill stem, 
> harlequin wrapped with orange and yellow Newbaums and a few coats of 
> clear 
> shellac. Paul Components orange Love Levers pulling Paul Motolite 
> brakes, 
> ESI silicone grips, Spurcycle limited-edition bell with orange 
> striker.
>
> Racks & Bags - Wald 137 basket mounted to Nitto Mark's rack with 
> Marigold Outershell basketbag and limited edition Swift 
> Industries/Camp and 
> Go Slow Sideaddladdlebagkick stem pouch. Matching Zeitgeist saddlebag 
> supported by rear-mounted Nitto M18  rack.
>
> Flickr album here: 

Re: [RBW] Re: The Official Introduction of RoadeoRosa

2024-02-20 Thread Jay Lonner
To me it looks like Baker-Miller pink, aka “Drunk Tank Pink:”Baker-Miller pinken.wikipedia.orgMaybe Bill is seeking to deescalate road rage?I’m in the process of having a custom built, and the paint scheme is an homage to my old 1968 VW Beetle in Royal Red. The bike is decidedly un-Riv though (one might even say anti-Riv) so maybe not appropriate for further discussion in this forum.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Feb 20, 2024, at 12:58 PM, George Schick  wrote:It took me a while to figure out the color scheme on this bike, but it finally dawned on my aging memory cells.  It's the same colors of Good N' Plenty candy!On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 12:44:02 PM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay wrote:ToshiThe strange backstory is that I was thinking of a pink bike for a LONG time.  One of the saddle models that just works for me is the Fizik Arione, and there's a great market for them on ebay because they come in colors that don't work on many bikes, so they are cheap as hell second hand.  I stumbled across one in the Rapha Cycle Club 'colorway', which is pink/white/black.  I bought the saddle and commited that I would paint the Roadeo to match the saddle!  Subsequently, as the frame delayed and delayed, I slowly was acquiring lighter and lighter stuff for the build.  I knew I could get close to 20 pounds WITH fenders, front rack, bell, pump, and pedals, so I spent big bucks on the Arione 00 saddle to drop another 90 grams.  I still have the pink, white and black saddle, but it's on a yellow bike now.  Yuck!Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAP.S. there is no good shade of pink cloth handlebar tape.  Newbaums used to have a nice pale pink, but no more.  Boo!On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 10:23:56 AM UTC-8 ttoshi wrote:You did follow Rule 8!  It's not too late to switch to the pink and blue harlequin bar tape :).  Toshi




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Re: [RBW] Re: I am in Bellingham and would be happy to stop over and measure the bike

2024-02-15 Thread Jay Lonner
I actually live in the historic (by West Coast standards, anyhow) South Hill neighborhood of Bellingham, WA and would be happy to offer my assistance. Reviewing the thread, the OP mentions living in the PNW but not Bellingham specifically — have we narrowed things down to my fair city?Jay LonnerYou-know-whereSent from my Atari 400On Feb 15, 2024, at 6:44 PM, Kim H.  wrote:To one and all,Jay Loner lives just outside of Bellingham, Washington. It would be a question as to whether or not he would be willing to come forward and help Ms. Helen Wilson. Kim Hetzel. On Thursday, February 15, 2024 at 5:37:56 PM UTC-8 boru...@gmail.com wrote:I can't ride it but could probably answer questionsAndrew at cafe velo is Riv savy and Gary Palmer knows a lot of things that are different from me and Andrewactually between the three of us we have way more expertise than Helen could ever use and all would be happy to help am sure206 eight 23 5070 On Monday, April 26, 2021 at 7:18:38 AM UTC-7 Joel S wrote:Sorry this got posted under digest, not sure how...Why not just measure standover? Easy enough to measure from the floor straight up to the middle of the top tube. I would think that would be a good indicator of fit for the right person.  I always try to go with standover due to BB height, how Rivendell measures, etc.  After owning 9+ Rivendell bikes Stand Over and TT length are to 2 figures I want to see.  On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:08:25 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:One caveat about the sizing that's been worked out before folks think it's too tall for them: I believe in that schematic the seattube has been measured to the very tip of the lug, which is where that 65cm number is coming from. Rivendell measures to the top of the toptube as it crosses the seattube, which I think will be a number closer to the toptube number of 61, i.e., the frame is probably 62 x 61cm. Just a guess of course and no slight on Helen's measuring, she's doing the best she can with what folks have told her to measure. I also offer my condolences, I'm very sorry for your loss. Joe BernardOn Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 4:36:02 PM UTC-7 LyleBogart{AT}gmail.com wrote:Hi Helen,First, my condolences. It's a hard thing losing one's spouse and Life partner. I wish you much peace. Second, alas the bike is a touch too big for me. You'll have no trouble selling that beauty!All the best,lyle f bogart dptTacoma, WAOn Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 5:24:54 PM UTC-7 hm_w...@hotmail.com wrote:-Curt Goodrich built Rivendell Road bike with custom paint by Joe Bell-Phil Wood hubs built to Sun CR18 rims-SHIMANO Deore XT m772 rear derailer-Deore XT cantilever brakes-Nitto handlebars and stem-Silver bar-end shiftersImmaculately cared for.  Stored in climate controlled garage.Located in Pacific Northwest.Asking $2000, plus shipping if applicable.



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Re: [RBW] Dialing in a Brooks Saddle

2024-02-01 Thread Jay
I've been thinking a lot about saddles since yesterday's experiment.  I was 
reading the articles on bike.bikegremlin.com and I had some good 
take-away's.  

For one, I re-measured my sit bone width, and it was 115mm (I'm 155 pounds, 
32" waist and 6'0, so I have a skinny butt!).  

Two: I think what's always been odd about me is how I sit on a saddle. 
 Although I'm flexible (can easily bend over and touch the floor, almost 
palms on the floor), I don't like an aero position because I have a 
long-term issue with my cervical spine.  It's much better, but I just 
prefer more upright than your typical roadie (I would think I'm around 55 
degree spine angle).  I can't explain how I sit on the saddle but a couple 
of bike fitters have made general comments (that I can't recall).

Third and key for me, is saddle shape.  I've had the best luck on flat 
saddles tail to tip (not wavy), t-shaped, and flat curvature from side to 
side.  And if they have a cut out, it needs to be very small and not have 
edges that can dig into me.

When I sit on a saddle that is too wide (I think my 147mm is too wide), I'm 
sitting forward, because my legs can't clear at the bottom of the pedal 
stroke.  Add a wide cut out to that (that is widest in the middle of the 
saddle) and I'm sitting on the widest part of the cut-out, which may dig 
into me.  Basically, I want my sit bones on the widest/flattest part of the 
saddle.

If I was very upright, a B17 might work, but that's not how I ride (in 
particular with drop bars).  In the drops (love flared drops) I'm probably 
45-50 spine angle, on the tops maybe 60.

I'm now going on the hunt for a saddle around 140mm wide, and relatively 
flat in both directions.  I'll give that a shot and see how it goes!

On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 1:11:52 PM UTC-5 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm perfectly comfortable on B17s, and always have been... but I've 
> recently (past 2-3 years) switched to Berthoud saddles. I think one of the 
> issues Brooks saddles can have is that there seem to be inconsistencies in 
> the quality and thickness of the leather used. I'm still using a 15 year 
> old B17 Special that is very comfortable and still holding up strong, but 
> I've had a couple other B17s come and go since I first purchased this one. 
> I guess this one was just an especially good one, or whatever. You'll pay 
> more for other brands like Berthoud or Ideale but the leather is noticeably 
> better quality than what I've found on Brooks. A purely subjective data 
> point, but I've never bothered with padded shorts or chamois. I wear 
> regular shorts or pants with merino boxers no matter what type of ride or 
> ride length.
>
> -Brian
> Lex KY
>
> On Thursday, February 1, 2024 at 12:43:59 PM UTC-5 Mojo wrote:
>
>> Jay,
>>
>> Here is my data point FWIW. I adjust my B17s to be nose up higher than 
>> back-of-saddle up. In other words, my saddle has less of a nose-up position 
>> less than the back flat position discussed here, creating a hammock shape, 
>> but again with the nose a bit higher than the back.
>>
>> I find B17s quite comfortable for day riding, but it literally wears on 
>> me on multiday tours. I have found the Berthoud Aspin, 157mm width, to be 
>> much more comfortable and more expensive. The WTB Pure, 148mm width, does 
>> well for day rides and costs so much less. Both tilt adjusted as described 
>> above.
>>
>> Joe in GJT 
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 6:52:51 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for all the wisdom.  And the humour (Eric).
>>>
>>> I installed the saddle and tinkered with initial set up in my basement. 
>>>  Proceeded to go out for ride one, around the block.  These very short 
>>> rides tell me if I'm way off.  I was.  Made adjustments about five more 
>>> times, going around my block once or twice each time.  Felt better, but 
>>> never comfortable.  Went out for a 10k ride.  Stopped twice to adjust.  I 
>>> had the saddle level in the back, which puts the nose up (as you know). 
>>>  That had me neither sliding forward or backward, but it wasn't 
>>> comfortable.  I felt like the tilt was right (no slide), height was good 
>>> (decent extension at bottom of stroke), and I'm guessing fore/aft was 
>>> good...no leg pain. Hard to say what was uncomfortable; I felt the skirt of 
>>> the saddle, and general discomfort around the sit bones (not the sit bone 
>>> pin-point area itself).  
>>>
>>> When I ride my Prologo (147mm wide) I am very comfortable for 1-2 hours, 
>>> then it slowly becomes uncomfortable (friction/chafing).  The Prologo was 
>>> comfortable from ride one (after the small adjustments per my routine).  On 
>&g

Re: [RBW] Dialing in a Brooks Saddle

2024-01-31 Thread Jay
Thanks for all the wisdom.  And the humour (Eric).

I installed the saddle and tinkered with initial set up in my basement. 
 Proceeded to go out for ride one, around the block.  These very short 
rides tell me if I'm way off.  I was.  Made adjustments about five more 
times, going around my block once or twice each time.  Felt better, but 
never comfortable.  Went out for a 10k ride.  Stopped twice to adjust.  I 
had the saddle level in the back, which puts the nose up (as you know). 
 That had me neither sliding forward or backward, but it wasn't 
comfortable.  I felt like the tilt was right (no slide), height was good 
(decent extension at bottom of stroke), and I'm guessing fore/aft was 
good...no leg pain. Hard to say what was uncomfortable; I felt the skirt of 
the saddle, and general discomfort around the sit bones (not the sit bone 
pin-point area itself).  

When I ride my Prologo (147mm wide) I am very comfortable for 1-2 hours, 
then it slowly becomes uncomfortable (friction/chafing).  The Prologo was 
comfortable from ride one (after the small adjustments per my routine).  On 
my Fargo, where I'm riding it like a drop-bar mountain bike on 'green' 
trails in my area, I stand a lot, and I can ride long without discomfort. 
 Long road rides, however, not so good.  Same saddle on my road bike, bit 
better at the 2-3hr mark.

Not sure where to go from here!  I don't think I'll bring the saddle for 
the Roadini fitting, but I won't get rid of it.  We'll see how this unfolds 
:-)

On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 3:06:26 PM UTC-5 Chris Halasz wrote:

> I've owned many B17 saddles, and there is variability, and in my 
> experience, less variability in the Special than in the Standard. So if you 
> don't like the B17 you try, it may just be you don't like *that* particular 
> B17. 
>
> I've always thought that Brooks should do a little pressure test mid-way 
> on the saddle to address the variability in the leather. In my experience, 
> some seem made for more robust torsos, and some for much less. I regret 
> selling a just right one to a very nice person here in town, but am more 
> pleased to know how well it suits him. 
>
> For starters, I always adjust a B17 to nose up by a tip of the thumb 
> thickness at the back from level. That gets me good enough. 
>
> If further micro-adjustment is needed, I have a small round magnet that 
> Riv provided with my Hobson Zingo (is that right?) Allen key that remains 
> on the bike's head tube and then temporarily set my 4 or 5mm key handy and 
> (ideally) have a seat post with a fore and aft screw for the adjustment. 
>
> I recall an old video of Eddy Merckx micro adjusting his saddle height 
> while out on a ride. Makes me feel just like Eddy. 
>
> - Chris 
>
> On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 9:26:36 AM UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I believe that it all depends on your riding posture in the angle of 
>> which your pelvis and your seat bones rest on the saddle. See attachment 
>> diagram. 
>>
>> It is a personal choice and preference as much as one's bum is different 
>> from the next person's. 
>>
>> I ride in an upright riding position my Clem with my B66S saddle's nose 
>> titled up slightly. I wear padded cycling shorts. 
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 7:28:13 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> I was going to speak along similar lines, perhaps not as forthrightly. 
>>> But I found angle more critical on Brookses for some reason than on any 
>>> other saddle, including other leather makes.
>>>
>>> After trying several B 17s, a B 17N, a Champion Flyer, and a Pro, the 
>>> one Brooks that I found comfortable *(very* comfortable except for tilt 
>>> adjustment) was the Pro -- the others chafed or pressed or obtruded. I 
>>> positioned the Pro tilted slightly up on a bike with drop bar below saddle. 
>>> But I could never get the tilt just right, and I had a rather nice seatpost 
>>> with separate angle adjustment bolt that allowed stepless adjustment. With 
>>> the slippery surface I was either sliding forward onto the bar or feeling 
>>> pressure, and after I had commuted on it for 18 or 24 months or so I went 
>>> back to original issue Flites which I now have on all my bikes.
>>>
>>> I almost never ride in padded shorts and the lined shorts I occasionally 
>>> use have very thin chamoises or (1 pair) a very thin synthetic layer just 
>>> to prevent seam chafing -- I *hate* thick pads. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jan 31, 2024 at 6:04 AM Eric Daume  wrote:
>>>
 My technique for dialing in a Brooks:

 1. Loosen seat post bolt
 2. Remove Brooks saddle
 3. Replace with any other plastic saddle I happen to have nearby
 4. Enjoy the better comfort, less slipperiness, lighter weight, and 
 zero maintenance.

 YMMV :)

 Eric

>>>

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[RBW] Dialing in a Brooks Saddle

2024-01-30 Thread Jay
Next week I'll be throwing a leg over a Roadini for the first time (I 
posted a couple weeks ago about the frame I ordered) and I thought I was 
set on my saddle, but decided yesterday I need to try something very 
different.  

A little bit of background before I get to my question...

When I started cycling around 20 years ago I had Brooks B17 on my road bike 
(custom geometry, not too aggressive) and a Masi commuter bike.  It was a 
while ago so I can't recall what I liked about them, and why I eventually 
stopped using them, but I do recall one memory...I always used padded bib 
shorts (still do) and one day in the winter I went for a 2hr ride and only 
realized when I got home that I just had on my underwear and tights.  In at 
least that way for me at that time, the saddle was that comfortable.

Since that time I've used a lot of plastic saddles from Fizik, Selle Italia 
and the latest is a Prologo (147mm wide, with a bit of padding).  I used 
this saddle on two bikes the last 4 months and it was a noticeable 
improvement over the Selle Italia saddles I was using previously.  I 
thought this is what I would use on the Roadini (and still may, in the long 
run).  But when I use it on my Salsa Fargo (bar level with saddle) and ride 
for 2+ hours, I get friction and general discomfort.  And can I ride 
without padded bib shorts?  Heck no, I can't even go around my block 
without bibs when using this saddle.

To get to my point, I ordered a B17 in Honey to try out on my Roadini.  I'm 
getting it tomorrow and I'm going to try it on my Fargo (nice weather for 
next little while).  I know that overall I need to be patient, only change 
one thing at a time, and only small adjustments.

My thinking, where I wanted to get your input, is that I would be set up 
the bike so saddle and bars are level, and will likely start with the 
saddle level (from what I recall this will have the rear of the saddle 
where my sit bones are located, pointed down a bit, but that's how my 
Prologo is today and I can ride in the drops and take my hands off and I'm 
balanced...so I think I'll start there and see how it goes).

Any other words of wisdom that I can consider?  Thanks in advance.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini Build - Mix of Modern and Retro

2024-01-22 Thread Jay
While I'm not concerned with the weight I'll land on after the build, I 
would like to keep up with my friend who I ride weekly with.  He's good 
going my speed (he's naturally faster), and I'm hoping the speed on this 
bike isn't much lower than my current road bike.  Like many say, it's the 
total weight including the rider that counts...so I started eating better 
since ordering the frame to see if total weight is the same, or better!  I 
do have a second wheel set I'm planning to use, occasionally, and those 
wheels together with then 30mm tires will be lighter, and have better hubs 
(will be interesting to see how they feel when riding compared to the other 
wheels with 43mm GKSS).

On Monday, January 22, 2024 at 10:34:41 AM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> It weighed 23 pounds with pump, water bottle cage, pedals but no toolkit: 
> https://blog.piaw.net/2022/10/putting-together-my-roadini.html
>
> On Mon, Jan 22, 2024 at 5:32 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Piaw: I'm curious, how light is your Roadini?
>>
>> More general question to the audience: How does the current Roadini 
>> differ from the original Sam Hillborne? I owned one of the latter and it 
>> would be interesting to use this Sam as a gauge for understanding the 
>> Roadini.
>>
>> Aside: I'm thinking (just thinking; action may come but later) of turning 
>> that Libertas into an on-and-offroad beater because I think it will take a 
>> 38 mm tire. The original issue Sam was limited to IIRC 38 or 40 mm tires so 
>> I hope that this might be a more nimble handling and lighter (and 
>> beater-sh) Sam surrogate.
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 21, 2024 at 8:44 PM Piaw Na  wrote:
>>
>>> I went with 11s and a single DT shifter (I'm running 1x11) and I treat 
>>> my Roadini as a gravel bike. It's great. Usually I climb on the road so 
>>> shifting is not a problem, and descending who cares what gears you're in. 
>>> But on the few occasions I did a a dirt climb and I'd just shift into the 
>>> lowest gear and stay there. My goal for the Roadini was to make it as light 
>>> as possible (given the relatively heavy frame) while still able to do hard 
>>> climbs. It hasn't disappointed.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 2:06:45 PM UTC-8 four...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just curious, if you are using 11sp, why not use integrated 
>>>> shifters/levers? To each their own for sure, but I can't imagine DT 
>>>> shifters on a mixed-surface trail unless it's really smooth.. heck, I 
>>>> don't 
>>>> even care for bar-ends on a trail.. but those RRL levers are super nice! 
>>>>
>>>> I'm leaning hard into a Roadini that I may put a Campy 10 Triple group 
>>>> I have on it.. 
>>>>
>>>> Chris 
>>>>
>>>> On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 10:33:55 AM UTC-8 Jay wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> First post here!  I've been reading some of the threads and this 
>>>>> sounds like a good place...my new happy place ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> I ordered the dark gold Roadini (57) from the only shop in Canada that 
>>>>> sells Riv (C Cycles) and will be picking it up in a few weeks when I'll 
>>>>> be visiting Montreal.
>>>>>
>>>>> Looking for this to be a project bike, that evolves over time.  For 
>>>>> now though, I had a lot of new / lightly used parts on hand, so I'll be 
>>>>> using those and having the bike shop supply the rest (including some 
>>>>> handbill wheels for some lightly used 43mm GKSS tires I'm using on my 
>>>>> Fargo 
>>>>> in the winter).  Build will be Shimano 11sp, with DT shifters and Tektro 
>>>>> RRL brake levers, and Tektro brakes.
>>>>>
>>>>> Purpose of the bike is all-road (where I live, a lot of that is paved, 
>>>>> but there are gravel roads further out), but will not be used much on 
>>>>> local 
>>>>> mixed-surface trails (where the Fargo excels).  My current road bike will 
>>>>> be jealous, but I'm not kicking her to the curb just yet!
>>>>>
>>>>> Photos to come in February.  
>>>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini Build is complete

2024-01-22 Thread Jay
Looks great.  You have me questioning the Dark Gold I selected ;-)

On Monday, January 22, 2024 at 3:36:11 PM UTC-5 brenton...@gmail.com wrote:

> For the seat height inquiries:
>
> Both my bikes are currently 41” top of saddle to the ground. The Roadini 
> has less BB drop so top of saddle to crank bolt center is 31”, where the 
> Sam is 31.5”. I may end up raising the saddle on the Roadini. Hard to 
> compare a broken in B17 to C17 as well. I could probably raise both seats 
> 1” and still have a knee bend at bottom of pedal stroke. 
>
> I am 6’1” with 89cm PBH 
>
> On Jan 22, 2024, at 11:10 AM, John Bokman  wrote:
>
> Brenton, thanks for the post; nice looking bike. As weather allows, 
> please let us know how this bike rides compared to your Sam (especially 
> when it was in drop-bar mode). I'm sure I'm not the only Sam rider who is 
> curious about this comparison.
>
>
>
> John
> On Monday, January 22, 2024 at 10:49:51 AM UTC-8 brenton...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I haven't ridden it enough to decide if it was the perfect +1 yet, but it 
>> was a fun project. I will report back after some miles.
>>
>> It was great way to spend my time during 2 weeks of Portland 
>> snow+ice+wind. Did lots of research, and learned a ton more about 
>> components I was only mildly interested in before. Shopping for NOS+used 
>> parts on eBay was surprisingly fun, especially if you're after components 
>> that most folks ignore. I watched all the "built by blue lug" videos, 
>> highly recommend watching for both zen, appreciation of expertise, and 
>> educational instruction (though they are not intentionally instructional).
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Roadini Build - Mix of Modern and Retro

2024-01-21 Thread Jay
I hear you 'fourflys', I was undecided before going with the DT and the 
RRSL levers.  My Fargo has brifters and on the mixed-surface, often 
technical trails I ride, it's very handy.  My road bike has brifters.  I 
decided I wanted to try something different, plus I like the idea of them 
being friction, and the simplicity of them (oh, and the lower cost, as I 
didn't have brifters on hand, like I did other parts).  I had DT shifters 
on a bike I built up around 10 years ago and liked them.  This bike will 
mainly be ridden on paved roads, and occasional gravel roads and rail 
trails (80/20), so I'm sure it will be fine.  But once I ride it, we'll see 
how I adjust.

On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 5:06:45 PM UTC-5 four...@gmail.com wrote:

> Just curious, if you are using 11sp, why not use integrated 
> shifters/levers? To each their own for sure, but I can't imagine DT 
> shifters on a mixed-surface trail unless it's really smooth.. heck, I don't 
> even care for bar-ends on a trail.. but those RRL levers are super nice! 
>
> I'm leaning hard into a Roadini that I may put a Campy 10 Triple group I 
> have on it.. 
>
> Chris 
>
> On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 10:33:55 AM UTC-8 Jay wrote:
>
>> First post here!  I've been reading some of the threads and this sounds 
>> like a good place...my new happy place ;-)
>>
>> I ordered the dark gold Roadini (57) from the only shop in Canada that 
>> sells Riv (C Cycles) and will be picking it up in a few weeks when I'll 
>> be visiting Montreal.
>>
>> Looking for this to be a project bike, that evolves over time.  For now 
>> though, I had a lot of new / lightly used parts on hand, so I'll be using 
>> those and having the bike shop supply the rest (including some handbill 
>> wheels for some lightly used 43mm GKSS tires I'm using on my Fargo in the 
>> winter).  Build will be Shimano 11sp, with DT shifters and Tektro RRL brake 
>> levers, and Tektro brakes.
>>
>> Purpose of the bike is all-road (where I live, a lot of that is paved, 
>> but there are gravel roads further out), but will not be used much on local 
>> mixed-surface trails (where the Fargo excels).  My current road bike will 
>> be jealous, but I'm not kicking her to the curb just yet!
>>
>> Photos to come in February.  
>>
>

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[RBW] WTB: 47/48cm Hunqapillar, Atlantis (pre 2018 or so), Appaloosa, or similar

2024-01-06 Thread Jay Primus
Hello
I'm looking for a complete bike (frameset OK), any condition, of these 
models (or similar) for a fair price.  

Needs to easily accommodate 2.1 tires, the standover (with 2.1 tires) can't 
be more than ~75cm, and at least at ~52cm top tube.  Probably best with 26 
inch wheels but could be 650b 

Ideally, a hunquapillar!

If you have something you might part with, please message me directly --- 
thank you 
Jay Pri  mus 
San Anselmo, CA 

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Re: [RBW] 1st world commuting dilemma

2023-12-07 Thread Jay Lonner
We should all be so lucky as to have “beaters” as nice as that Surly! With a Rohloff and disc brakes that sounds like a perfect winter commuter. My first winter in Wisconsin the road salt trashed the drivetrain on my XO-1. Maybe that’s not an issue in Indianapolis, but I’d be hesitant to subject one of your “nice” bikes to such abuse. I’d be tempted to set up the Surly with studded tires for when it’s really gnarly out, and ride one of the Rivs when the roads are clear and/or the weather is clement. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Dec 7, 2023, at 8:38 AM, Josiah Anderson  wrote:I commute to a college campus in a city with a notorious bike theft problem on my Gus Boots-Willsen and my Crust Lightning Bolt, so I would say go for it with the Atlantis. I always lock up in high-traffic areas, use two locks if leaving it overnight, and ideally lock near more mainstream "nice" bikes that would be more attractive to thieves. I figure that to most eyes my Crust looks like a bike boom 10 speed and my Gus looks like a beach cruiser, and if there's a Specialized mtb next to it that's the more likely target. The only time I really feel the need to use my "beater" bike (currently a Bianchi Volpe) is in the winter when the roads are salty. I don't know what Indianapolis winters are like, but if the roads are salty and gross, I would hesitate to ride a Riv. It just ruins bikes so fast if you don't get around to cleaning and re-lubing regularly, which is often the case for me with about 80 hours a week of school and work.Good luck with your decision!Josiah Missoula MTLe jeu. 7 déc. 2023 à 7:49 AM, Josh C <getjoshchamb...@gmail.com> a écrit :Hello all. I find myself trying to make a decision regarding which bike to use as my commuter. Background: I live in Indianapolis and ride my bike for a good chunk of my daily needs. I have a short commute to work which is done on bike 90% of the time. I usually work from 5:20-ish am to about 6:30 pm 3-4 days a week. The only days I don't ride in are if it's pouring rain when I get up, or the snow is too deep to get through. I could ride in the rain, and don't mind it on the way home, but already get up at 4:30 am and simply don't have time to change or mess with it on work days. I'm commuting on a Rohloff-equipped Surly Ogre currently and have put less than 1K miles on my car this year. We live near downtown and are a short ride to many things that we like to do. We often ride to ball games, art exhibits, concerts, dinners, drinks...you name it.  Dilemma: Now I warned you that this is a 1st world problem, but here goes. I have several Riv's and they are my favorite bikes to ride but I find myself on the Ogre more often than any other bike. I may accumulate more miles on my Rivs, as I ride a Toyo Atlantis as my all-road bike, but I do way more trips on the Surly. For some reason, I simply feel more comfortable locking up the Surly for 13 hours or outside of a music venue downtown than I do a Rivendell. In my mind, the Riv seems like more of a target for would-be thieves than the Surly and thus it gets most of the day-to-day duty. The thing is that I enjoy riding a Rivendell much more than the Surly and, after giving this some thought, had decided to buy a Clem when this latest batch of completes was released, and start using it for my daily driver. However, after doing some math in my head, and realizing that I'd likely change a lot of the Clem complete build, I am thinking that I'd might as well ride one of the Rivs that I currently own. By the time I get the Clem to my door, I've spent $2500 with shipping and tax. I'd change the bars, add a saddle, add fenders, have the front wheel rebuilt with a dyno hub, and so on. I'd easily be into it for $3K or more. My Surly has a $1400 rear hub and is easily over the $3K mark. I am lucky enough to have two Rivendell Atlantis and a Hunq. I've owned several others in the past as well. One of the Atlantis bikes that I have would fit the bill. It's the more recent style with the longer wheelbase & double top tube. These are super sturdy bikes that wouldn't mind being loaded up and taken to work. I've already got a wheelset with a dyno hub and a light lying around here somewhere. I purchased this bike for $3K this summer from a local guy. I didn't need the bike but just couldn't pass it up as it was so cool! I thought to myself: I've locked up more expensive bikes at work for 13 hours or at music venues until the wee hours of the night without issue, so why not just do the bulk of my riding on a bike that I truly enjoy riding? What am I saving it for? Questions: Is my logic sound? Do you think that riding a nice Riv to work, to lock it up outside all, day in a city, is a dumb idea? Do you commute on a Riv that is left outside all day? I'd also like to use this as an opportunity to see some of your commuters. Feel free to post a pic of your daily driver and also, let us know if you lock it up outside 

Re: [RBW] WTT for Nitto seat posts (lugged 26.8, 2-bolt 27.2)

2023-12-04 Thread Jay Lonner
I think the Nitto S84 lugged seatpost has only ever been manufactured in 27.2mm. It’s one of the reasons that many of us are frustrated that so many Riv models require a 26.8mm seatpost. If you’re looking for more setback IRD is probably the way to go. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Dec 4, 2023, at 1:09 PM, Eric Grim  wrote:
	
	


WTT
for
seatposts:
I want a Nitto lugged seatpost in 26.8mm, and a Nitto two-bolt
seatpost in 27.2.
I
have these parts available:
Nitto
lugged seatpost, 27.2mm, with light marks (I polished the inside of
the seat tube before installing it)
Nitto
two-bolt "frog" seatpost in 26.8mm (light marks)
Nitto
single-bolt U15-10N seatpost also in 26.8 (light marks)
Nitto
XP steel stem, brand new, never inserted
Nitto
XT Dirt Drop stem for 26.0 bars (light marks)
Nitto
RM016N "mustache" style handlebars
If
you happen to be a vintage drop bar enthusiast, I have a Cinelli bar
& stem set, and an old aluminum Raleigh bar & stem set. 
Neither of these is in as good shape as the Nitto parts, but they're
straight., and I cleaned the sticky residue off.Eric GrimSpokaneowner of a Riv Appaloosa and a Soma San Marcos
Pics
shall be taken upon
request.



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Re: [RBW] Favorite Floor Pump Head?

2023-11-15 Thread Jay Lonner
This is maybe a bit of thread hijack, but for those with air compressors I really like the Efficient Velo inflator: https://www.efficientvelo.com/tools/3-in-1-inflator. In fact when the “tried and liked 2023” thread pops up that was going to be my contribution. We’ve added 3 new bikes* to my household over the past year, and the combination of this inflator and an air compressor has really improved my quality of life — I spend a lot less time pumping, and more time cycling. It’s also encouraged me to experiment more with fine-tuning my tire pressures for different types of riding, which has enhanced my overall comfort no matter what bike I’m on. Highly recommended.Jay LonnerBellingham, WA*For those curious: Tumbleweed Stargazer adventure/gravel bike (mine), Transition Smuggler full suspension trail bike (mine), Specialized Turbo Vado SL e-bike (wifey). I also have a Bantam custom on order to replace my Hunqapillar, and I think my wife’s Cheviot will soon be for sale, so I’m anticipating RBW emeritus status within the next year or so…Sent from my Atari 400On Nov 15, 2023, at 9:51 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:I should have added: Is this the same as the "Hiro" chuck?On Wed, Nov 15, 2023 at 10:48 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:Just to be clear, this is the pump head I recently bought from Soma, called the "Tanaka" pump head; $24.99. I've gotten mixed reviews about it; can others say how it worked for them?https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/36521-tanaka-pump-head-v-2-3482?category=953#attr=On Wed, Nov 15, 2023 at 9:44 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:I've been using the old Silca brass chucks for years and they work fine -- simple, air-tight, secure -- on Presta valves if the gasket is in good condition and you know how to us it -- chuck cap sufficiently tight but not too tight, chuck pressed on firmly but not obsessively (in which case it's a pain to remove) -- but I recently bought a Tanaka chuck because it was on sale by Soma. Who has experience with the Tanaka and can say how well it works?That said, a "80 out of 100" recommendation for the old Silca chuck if you use Presta valves.On Wed, Nov 15, 2023 at 9:21 AM Nick Shoemaker  wrote:I've had a Lezyne High Volume floor pump for about 10 years, and I'm kinda tired of screwing/unscrewing the head every time I inflate a tire (not to mention the times when the valve core comes out, too...) Does anyone have a reco for an inexpensive easy to use replacement head that I could install on my existing pump? Seems like the Riv pumps use a Topeak head, and I know Lezyne makes several different options, but I'm curious to hear the group's preferences & experiences.(I know I could also just buy the Plumpatire, but there's nothing wrong with my current also-wood-handled pump, so that feels a bit wasteful)Thanks!Nick



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-- -Patrick MooreAlburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum-Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing services.-When thou didst not, savage,Know thine own meaning, but wouldst gabble likeA thing most brutish, I endowed thy purposesWith words that made them known.
-- -Patrick MooreAlburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum-Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing services.-When thou didst not, savage,Know thine own meaning, but wouldst gabble likeA thing most brutish, I endowed thy purposesWith words that made them known.
-- -Patrick MooreAlburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum-Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing services.-When thou didst not, savage,Know thine own meaning, but wouldst gabble likeA thing most brutish, I endowed thy purposesWith words that made 

Re: [RBW] Options for converting Silver-1 barend shifters to thumbies?

2023-11-11 Thread Jay Lonner
As near as I know the only game in town are the mounts sold by Riv for that exact purpose, which you must be familiar with but I’ll link here anyhow: https://www.rivbike.com/products/z558mz-cnv-oialk. Paul used to sell adapters for their Thumbie mounts, but they are neither 1. cheap nor 2. currently in production, so would require some scrounging. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 11, 2023, at 8:13 AM, Jon Craig (Vendraen)  wrote:So what options exist for converting Silver-1 barend shifters to thumbies? That don't cost a fortune - $60-$70 per shifter seems just crazy honestly. Is there anything more reasonable?



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[RBW] Re: Bedrock Mountain Clogs in Stock!

2023-11-01 Thread Jay Lonner
I got a pair of the Nubuck in size 13 and they’re a little tight. I can 
make them work, but would prefer to size up. They are unworn apart from 
trying them on. Happy to move them along for the retail price of $175, plus 
shipping.

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 4:52:24 PM UTC-7 in...@brentknepper.com 
wrote:

> just trying mine on today and I too went up from a usual 10 to a 11. at 
> first I was worried I there still wasn't enough room with my cute winter 
> wool socks on, until I realized a separate layer of cardboard forms were 
> still hiding inside, but all good once I realized my mistake :)
>
> I'm a big socks n chacs fan in the shoulder szns, and I will say the 
> bedrock soles are hella flat in comparison to chacos's arch cradling 
> technology. anyone else notice a similar arch-love disparity?
>
> -brent, with dry toes for once, in snowing-on-hallowe'en-chicago 
>
> On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 4:47:51 PM UTC-5 Tim Bantham wrote:
>
>> I also sized up and feel happy with that decision. For reference I wear a 
>> size 11 in the Bedrock Cairn sandal and selected the 12 in the Mountain 
>> Clog. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 12:53:58 PM UTC-4 Michael Ullmer wrote:
>>
>>> I concur! I got mine over the weekend and went with a size 13, though I 
>>> usually wear size 11-12 in most shoes. I compared the length with the Size 
>>> 11 Crocs that these are replacing and the size 13 Mountain Clogs were the 
>>> same length.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 11:22:04 AM UTC-5 Joe A. wrote:
>>>
>>>> I received mine and they are great. I can confirm that they run a 
>>>> little smaller than I expected for those that are still considering 
>>>> sizing. 
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 8:14:32 PM UTC-7 fra...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I was so excited for the restock! I didn’t see the email before I took 
>>>>> my daughter to school. In those 30 or so minutes, my size was sold out in 
>>>>> the full leather. Hopefully I don’t have to wait another year for a 30 
>>>>> minute window. 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 4:05:09 AM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I had reached out to supporr, here is what they said:  Most folks 
>>>>>> are wearing the *same size in the Clogs and the Cairns, however I 
>>>>>> would say if you have a more snug fit in your sandals (not much wiggle 
>>>>>> room), you may need to size up in the clogs. Hope this helps!*
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Friday, October 27, 2023 at 9:45:32 PM UTC-4 Teague Scott wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Wow these are cool. Thanks for getting them on my radar. Wondering 
>>>>>>> whether sizing runs true to their sandals...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Tuesday, October 24, 2023 at 1:29:47 PM UTC-6 Calvin Yolo wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I had the leather ones and just purchased the green suede as a back 
>>>>>>>> up pair. I have a ton of miles walked in my first pair and I'll 
>>>>>>>> probably 
>>>>>>>> have these in rotation for as long as they make them.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, October 24, 2023 at 9:25:26 AM UTC-7 Joe A. wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hey Riv Fam,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> For any of those curious about these clogs they're finally back in 
>>>>>>>>> stock. I snagged a pair of them in Nubuck Leather. Should be great 
>>>>>>>>> for fall 
>>>>>>>>> riding :)
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> https://bedrocksandals.com/collections/bedrock-mountain-clogs
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Happy riding!
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> - J
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Boomerang Rivs

2023-10-22 Thread Jay Lonner
Wooden tubulars with cork brakes? I tip my straw boater to you — that’s taking retro to a whole new level. Makes my vintage SunTour drivetrain seem straight out of The Jetsons.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Oct 22, 2023, at 10:14 AM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:I said I was on a low-ebb photo documenting...and then went and took a FLURRY of photos.  I spent a solid day in the stand, re-imagining four bikes:Phase 1: The Rosco Bubble road got a total strip down.  Frame+fork+headset went into a bike box for future re-imagination.  The entire build kit was reabsorbed into the bike-borg inventory.  Some parts received immediate reassignment from the Borg.  Others went into their respective holding tanksPhase 2: My Bridgestone RB1 got slightly less stripped down.  Its crankset, wheel set and 2x7 friction drivetrain went to the BorgPhase 3: My Hetchins Magnum Opus was half way through a wooden tubular wheel set conversion.  It got a wood tubular rear wheel and associated cork brake pad conversion.  The friction drivetrain and crankset from the RB1 rounded it out.  The Hetchins relinquished its 2x(8of10) indexed drivetrain back to the RB1Phase 4: The RB1 received its retro-modern 126mm OLD wheel set and 2x(8of10) indexed drivetrain from the Hetchins.  It is in the midst of being re-configured as a late 90s time trial bike.  The aero cockpit is forthcoming.  Phase 5:  A Vitus 979 is becoming the new city bike that the Rosco Bubbe had been in my stable.  It received the crankset, BB, pedals, chain, and both derailleurs from the Rosco Bubbe.  Today it receives the saddle and brake levers from the 8U883 also.  It will get its wheel set from the RB1 above.  One new build concept is complete on the Hetchins.  The RB1 is rideable but only in a way station for its final (final?) destination.  The Vitus is on its way and may be rideable as soon as tonight.  Who knows when the boomerang Bubbe will get a re-do, but there's a lot here.  I'm watching an eBay auction for the identical frame.  The bidding is at $510 + $160 shipping at the moment.  That'll help set the value.  There are a number of ways I could go...A chaotic but reasonably well documented photo album captures some of the crimes committed in my stand on the morning of Oct 21, 2023:https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/albums/72177720312110882Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Friday, October 20, 2023 at 12:20:16 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:for some reason I'm on a low-ebb on my tendency to photo document everythingand I was desperate to get a huge pile of cardboard out to the recycling center, so I sliced up that box setup rapidly and didn't take any photos.  :(BL in ECP.S. the Boomerang Rosco Bubbe road is now completely stripped down and its build kit is getting redeployed. On Friday, October 20, 2023 at 11:51:11 AM UTC-7 Mike Godwin wrote:Heck Bill, seems like the shipping features are worthy of a photo or two.1 boomerang Riv in the stable (Roadeo).Mike SLO CAOn Thursday, October 19, 2023 at 11:37:39 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:I received my second "boomerang Riv" yesterday.  My definition of a "boomerang Riv" is:-I bought it from Rivendell-I sold it to somebody for whatever reason-I bought it back againMy first boomerang Riv was my Hillborne frame set.  Boomerang Riv #2 is my R05C0 8U883 road complete.  It's the same BLUE 58cm as is on ebay right now.  I'm very pleased to have a liftatube bike back in the stable.  The build kit of this Rosco will get re-absorbed into inventory and will partially find its way on to a very weird upcoming build.  I'm going to develop a new build concept for the Rosco, and now have a frame to handwring over if I decide I need to join the 26.8mm handwringers.  Maybe I'll get my hands on a seat tube reamer and WOW it out to 27.2mm.  A very amusing shipping detail was that my boomerang seller had a shop box up the bike.  they put the bike into a "bike box" and then put the bike box into an "e-bike box".  It was double boxed!  It was by far the most bullet proof box jobs I have seen.  Pics when there are pics worth showing.Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CA



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Re: [RBW] Paul Racer Brake Noise/Vibration

2023-09-08 Thread Jay Lonner
This is a common complaint with headset-mounted cable hangers. Changing to a fork-mounted hanger usually alleviates the problem. Shovel Research just released a nice one: https://shovelresearch.com/fork-mounted-brake-cable-hangerJay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Sep 8, 2023, at 5:54 AM, Ben Mihovk  wrote:Good morning,I just got a new set of Racer (regular) brakes for my sidepull Hillborne. Everything's set up, the brakes are grabbing/stopping, but I'm getting the most horrific noises from the pads on the front brakes. I'm using the Kool Stop Thinlines that Paul sends with the brakes. I set them up following the instructions from Paul initially (no toe-in), and the brakes squealed on the first test ride. So I toed them in and now I'm getting this awful vibration when the pads touch the rims that gets louder/more intense with speed. The vibration can be felt in the saddle...all through the frame. Truly harrowing stuff here. When I full pull the brake levers, the vibration kind of goes away but I get a light squeal (even with brakes toed in). I've never set up centerpull brakes or any brakes with a straddle wire/hanger. I can't see how the problem could be from anything but how the pads are hitting. I've double checked to see that the unit is centered when I tighten it. The one goofy thing I'm noticing is that the right arm of the brake seems lower because I have the pad set higher in the arm than on the left side...but I've taken the pads off completely and recentered the brake unit and I'm getting the same results.I've read a little about how big frames (this is a 62cm Sam) can have the vibrations because of the length of cable and how tension varies through the pull (or something like that). I've also read that this kind issue could be from cheap/flimsly brakes...but I would hope that Paul brakes would be above suspicion here. I've also heard that if something is loose on the brake assembly, the vibrations can happen.However...I'm convinced it's in how I have the pads set...I don't get vibrations when the pads are not toed-in...toeing in almost seems to bring about the vibrations. Any ideas anyone has would be very helpful. I'm at the end of my rope and considering removing the Pauls and going back to the squisy and not very good Tektros Riv put on it originally.Thanks!Ben in Omaha



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[RBW] WTB: Nitto faceplater stem, 135mm 25.4, fillet or TIG

2023-08-27 Thread Jay Primus
Hello --- if you have one you'd like to sell please be in touch !
Thank you 
Jay P.
Marin, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: Thomson 26.8 Masterpiece Clearance

2023-08-23 Thread Jay Lonner
I can tell you that the Hunqapillar and Cheviot (both lugged models) use 26.8, at least in the batches represented in my household. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Aug 23, 2023, at 2:19 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:I think the lugged bikes (like the Sam) use 27.2 and the tigged stuff has is 26.8On Wednesday, August 23, 2023 at 4:33:47 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:So, 26.8 is what you want for a Sam? Thanks,ScottOn Wednesday, August 23, 2023 at 2:56:09 PM UTC-4 J Imler wrote:After years of ownership and the dreaded slip of the Riv issued post, I put a thin coat of grease on top of the post, then sprinkled a fine sand over it. When I clamped the saddle on, I heard a most satisfying crunch, crunch, crunch from all the little contact points. This was after I used a smallish file to mimic what Garth mentioned as bead blasted at all applicable areas, which was moderately helpful at best. I agree that the slick surface was not going to hold so I took matters into my own hands. Fingers crossed but feeling confident. Attached are pics for comparison.



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Re: [RBW] Riv Rider Recipes

2023-08-21 Thread Jay Lonner
It’s really bizarre to me that despite many impressive advancements in the biomedical sciences we still haven’t nailed down what constitutes the optimum human diet. I try to follow the well-known heuristic from Michael Pollan’s book “In Defense of Food” — “eat food, mostly plants, not too much.” (“Food” here is understood to be something that might have been recognizable to one’s great-grandparents, which is to say not synthesized in a lab somewhere.)I place greater importance on eating in season and with locally sourced ingredients (when feasible) than buying organically-grown food. My intuition is that milk from the dairy literally up the road probably has a lower overall environmental impact than a nominally organic product trucked in from California. I also do my best to minimize highly-processed starches such as sugar, flour, and white rice.My wife and I are avid cooks, and spend a great deal of time together in the kitchen. It’s a good way to stay connected in spite of busy workdays, and for me has the additional benefit of being a creative outlet. I find that I exercise different mental muscles when cooking than I do in my career, which is something I’ve come to value. In light of my enthusiasm for cooking, and the sheer extent of cookbooks and specialized kitchen equipment I have access to, I don’t have specific recipes to offer that would be widely applicable to a group of idiosyncratic bicycle fetishists. But if you’re not familiar with the chef and restaurateur Yotam Ottolenghi I’d recommend picking up one of his cookbooks — “Simple” is probably the one to get.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Aug 21, 2023, at 9:32 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:I'll be interested, both practically and academically,* in what others consider the ideal diet and I would consider buying a list cookbooks if it weren't too biased in the direction of "eat nothing but bacon all the time."I'll start. I don't like to cook, tho' in the past and in the right circumstances I've cooked largely and well, but living solus I find it a bore. So in addition to certain types of food I prefer simple food; but I detest poor food and therefore I dislike most prepared foods. Besides all this, I belong to the Orthodox [Christian] church where fast days -- basically, no animal products, tho' the principle of economia always applies -- outnumber non-fast days. Lastly, I gave up meat entirely for multiple reasons.So my repertoire ranges from vegan recipes to spinach quesadillas and cheese sandwiches with mayo and lettuce and pickles (don't laugh; a good cheese sandwich goes well with a fine Shiraz). I tend to like breads and, somewhat less, potatoes and rice -- and beer. My mother controlled type 2 diabetes and incipient heart trouble for 30 years by avoiding salt, fat, sugar, and eating lots of vegetables, styrofoam chicken breasts, and lots o' rice, being Filipina. Me, I prefer to ride my bikes.One very simple vegan recipe that I like: a modified Indian dal recipe.The basic recipe is cook the dal (I use, in order of preference, red, orange, or green, but not brown lentils from the bulk bins at Sprout's) until it is soft but not mushy. You can use vegetable broth in place of water. Prepare a savory oil: heat 1/8 cup [for large single serving] of neutrally flavored oil (not olive! which I use for most things) and "sautee" or "boil" small amounts of some or all of cumin, coriander, garlic, mustard seed, red pepper, fenugreek, and/or black pepper for 30-60 seconds.Put lentils on long-grain rice, strain oil and pour over lentils, eat like this or add any, some, or all of full-fat yogurt, hot Indian mango pickle, and English sweet chutney.As I tend to overdo things I've turned this into a lentil stew: sautee chopped onion, add liquid and cook lentils partially, add chopped spinach, cook until lentils are soft but not get mushy. Serve as above.Another recent "recipe" I invented recently because I had little in the fridge and didn't want to bother shopping: sautee lots of garlic in olive oil, liberally add red pepper, after a bit add a cup or 2 of peas, I use frozen, sautee some more until peas thawed and mostly cooked, add 14 oz can of full fat cocoanut milk, cook som more, eat over long grain rice.Oh, and peanut butter: Sprout's has an inexpensive house brand pure peanut butter, just peanuts and salt. The oil separates so you have to stir thoroughly; I store it upside down in the pantry until use, and after stirring store in the refrigerator. Decent bread and a wee bit of jam with whole milk ...Tip: If you cook a lot of dried legumes, get a pressure cooker. Crockpots are also useful.[Aside: I am very proud to say that when bringing up my daughter part time as a single father she never ate prepared foods, not even for school day breakfasts. (Well, some exceptions: I briefly bought Annie's Mac 'n' Cheese until I decided it wasn't good enough, and we once tried McDonald's chicken nuggets -- she got sick. We did order in pizza 

Re: [RBW] A College Clem

2023-08-12 Thread Jay LePree
Hi Leah,

I could not afford a car in graduate school at the University of 
Wisconsin-Madison, so wound up with a Diamond back mountain bike my first 
two years and then traded it in for a Specialized Triple Sirrus for my last 
two years there.  I was OK with both bikes, but after having my saddle and 
seatpost stolen on my Diamond back, I learned very quickly to install two 
seat leashes.  My bikes were stored inside my apartment overnight, so I 
overnight theft was not a concern.  I used a chain and a U-lock as that 
often can frustrate theives as then need two tools to steal the bike.  I 
would consider purchasing and installing Pitlock skewers to protect the 
wheels.  I would be wary of mounting bags to the bike.  Those would be 
easily stolen.  Baskets with torx nut hardware might be more theft proof.

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/pitlock.php

Jay LePree
Demarest, NJ
T LePree - 2020 ERAU - Commercial Pilot
K. LePree 2023 Columbia U. - Financial Analyst

That first walk past the high school, when all are away at school, will be 
a shock to the system, but it is part of their lives and ours.  Milestones.

On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 5:37:53 PM UTC-4 Wesley wrote:

> The current best value from Surly is the Cross Check, at $1100 for a 
> complete.
> -W
>
> On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 1:00:16 PM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> The 1x1 isn’t made any more, and they hold their value really well as 
>> they seem to be coming somewhat collectible. The replacement is the 
>> Lowside, I think it’s about $890 for the frame set. Not really a value play 
>> anymore. 
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> On Friday, August 11, 2023, George Schick  wrote:
>>
>>> I'll chime in with yet another recommendation (would be my choice if I 
>>> were going to be shipping a kid of to a campus in the near future):  a 
>>> Surly 1x1. They're single speed frames, rather on the heavy side made from 
>>> 4130 chro-moly tubing, powder coated for durability, and can be set up with 
>>> a single-speed cog and chainring of your choice.  I currently own one and 
>>> use it as my all around utility bike for running short haul errands, etc.  
>>> I'm using a Bulletproof BMX crankset, 38-tooth Rocket chainring, and a 
>>> Shimano 17-tooth SS freewheel for a 59" gear (perfect for riding around 
>>> campus).  You can equip this bike with front and rear disc brakes, though I 
>>> would not recommend it for campus use where it can get beat around on an 
>>> overloaded bike rack and the discs bent. Instead I'd set it up with 
>>> linear-pull F brakes. It comes with a threadless fork/steering tube, 
>>> though, so you'd need the right length/angle threadless stem and the right 
>>> bars to fit it (I'd recommend the VeloOrange Granola-Moose bar for easy 
>>> mounting of the bar with a headlight.  You could pick any hub, rim, and 
>>> tire combination you prefer.  Mine has Surly's semi-sealed cartridge hubs 
>>> with 28mm rims and 60mm Schwalbe Big Apple balloon tires - again, a perfect 
>>> combo for campus riding.
>>> A web search shows that there are several LBS's around the GR, MI area 
>>> who are Surly dealers so you'd be within reasonable reach of one.  Anyway, 
>>> that's my 2¢.
>>>
>>> PS: I have a 16T White Industries SS freewheel FS if that would work
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, August 9, 2023 at 6:47:48 AM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>>> Ding! wrote:
>>>
>>>> Wow, this thread has generated a lot of response, and I’ve enjoyed 
>>>> reading every post. It’s such a shame we have to go to extremes to avoid 
>>>> bike theft - carrying heavy u-locks, being so choosy about parking and 
>>>> locking, replacing parts, making the bike ugly, choosing to ride an 
>>>> undesirable bike so we can preserve our desirable bike…
>>>>
>>>> Then there’s the other variable - how careful is the kid going to be 
>>>> with the bike? Well, bikes are not precious to him. He likes his bike, 
>>>> sees 
>>>> beauty and usefulness in it, but please do not bore him with too many 
>>>> details about it. I don’t think he will worry about it like I would; and 
>>>> that may lead to carelessness that gets his bike stolen. But also, he has 
>>>> the Mr. Magoo-like quality of walking through life blissfully unaware of 
>>>> the evil that lurks around every corner and arriving unscathed at his 
>>>> destination. 
>>>>
>>>> The campus in question does not have a lot of bike pirates roaming 
>>>> about, although yes, I know they exist everywhere. But they a

Re: [RBW] Re: Routine maintenance / habits / survey

2023-08-09 Thread Jay Lonner
Having lived in similar climates as the OP my experience is quite different. As a year-round bicycle commuter in Wisconsin I found winter to be very hard on bikes, basically requiring an annual spring teardown once the road salt had a chance to dissipate. In the PNW I am very neglectful of my bikes. I figure that the rain does a good enough job of keeping the road grime washed off, although fenders help a lot with keeping it contained. I don’t routinely replace cables or drivetrain components until the accumulation of grease and grit begins to offend even my laissez faire aesthetics, and then I’ll do a half-assed job of spiffing things up. As we speak I’m preparing to swap in a new cassette and chain, and am experimenting for the first time with chain wax as an alternative to more conventional lubes.A lot of it might have to do formative biking experiences. This is where I grew up, so this is my default — it’s how I expect bikes to weather. I’m used to it. Living in the upper Midwest was quite a change of pace, so I had to adjust my mindset after trashing a nice bike (an XO-1!) my first winter there. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Aug 8, 2023, at 2:38 PM, John Rinker  wrote:Hey Mackenzy, I live in the interior of BC (Slocan Valley near Nelson) so our weather is a bit different, but here's what I can tell you about how I care for my bikes:1. I don't really ride them much in the winter (Dec.-Mar.) unless I head South so I can't say much about salty roads and such. Spring and Fall can be wet here, and Summer is usually dry. 2. I'm a believer in a well-maintained bike is more fun to ride. I also love to tinker with my bikes and I love being in my shop, so I'm always poking around with with them. Generally, I'll clean and lube my chain every 2-3 weeks as trails can be dusty here in the Summer. Maybe I'll spray my bikes down every couple of weeks if they're really dirty, but usually, they go unwashed unless I want to give them a good going over. (A clean bike is more enjoyable to work with)3. In the Winter I'll take the bikes apart for a more thorough cleaning and re-lubing of anything that moves (more to keep my hands from being idle than anything, but it's always fun). I like to clean all the bearings and regrease. And, I'll even put a coat of Griot's ceramic wax on the frames.4. I sprayed both frames (Atlantis, Hunq) with T-9 when I first built them up (2015 and 2020) but not since. I guess if I lived near the salty coastal waters I'd have done it again by now...maybe.5. I've never had a shop work on my bike because I'm pretty confident in my ability to keep things in good order. I can pretty much handle anything mechanical issues on my bikes, and when I can there's always plenty of fine people here to point out directions. I build my own wheels and abuse them thoroughly, and I have never had to deal with them (much to my chagrin, as I love the wheelbuilding process! I even had a couple of old wheels around that I tear down and build up just to keep in practice.)In short, I don't baby my bikes, but I treat them respectfully and do keep them in good working order because I don't really care for squeaks and creaks while I ride. I like it when the animals in the forest don't know I'm coming- better chance to spot them.Hope this helps.Cheers, JohnOn Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 1:56:02 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:Howdy all, I am curious in what sort of maintenance you and your Riv's (and other bikes) undergo. 1. location (climate variable) 2. how often do you tinker with your bike (customizing, small adjustments, wash, grease) (can you over grease?) 3. how often do you full tear down (do you re-treat anti-rust?) 4. when do you cave and let a shop work on your bike?My current routine is a little lacking or in need of adjustment in a somewhat new to me climate. I am a frequent tinkerer of bikes - and I have a weird hang-ups with letting shops work on my bikes. I've only had a few trusted mechanics that I've really felt comfortable working on my bikes. I've had some things installed by mechanics and find they rarely grease anything which leads to rusting at contact points which bothers me. I have no idea the correct amount of grease, but previously never had much for issue myself. I've moved to the coast (Vancouver bc) and been finding that my bikes really rust or corrode much more quickly here than living in Minnesota, or Alberta. (winter slurry aside). I try to rinse off my bike a few times a week during rainy season to prevent road goo from accumulating - but that is easier said than done. I probably give a quick scrub with a brush and hose once a month (maybe every 3-6 months with soap). I probably tinker once a month with installing parts or making minor adjustments so these often coincide. I usually try to do a full tear down yearly where I scrub and re-grease everything. I love fluid film so try to give a quick respray on the most vulnerable areas (I like it more than frame saver

Re: [RBW] Re: Atlas tubeless?

2023-08-08 Thread Jay Lonner
So I want to be sure I’m understanding what’s being conveyed here. Attached find a screenshot from the Velocity website showing cross sections of various rims they sell. Let’s confine ourselves to comparing the Atlas to the Cliffhanger.Is it the flat “shoulders” of the Cliffhanger that make a difference here? I can see how the concave shape of the Atlas would allow the tire bead to slide toward the midline. Is the point of adding extra layers of tape to the middle of the rim surface to create a physical backstop to prevent or limit the degree of slippage, and perhaps secondarily to create additional surface area for sealant to adhere to?Factoring in the weight of extra tape and sealant, it sounds like there could be a performance penalty in terms of adding rotational mass to the wheel, compared to using an ultralight tube. You wouldn’t get the other benefits of a tubeless setup (which I understand to be avoiding pinch flats and guarding against goatheads and other road hazards) but for type of riding I do on this bike those risks are negligible. My Hunq is already a beast of a commuter/utility bike and I’d hate to weigh it down further.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Aug 8, 2023, at 10:01 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:David: This method of building up the center of the rim to push the beads against the rim walls seems like an excellent way to avoid that dreaded bead separation with air loss; my great fear with "non-tubeless tubeless setups" has been deflating 20 miles from home, breaking the OS barrier and finding that my minipump won't push the beads back into place. Thanks for sharing.On Mon, Aug 7, 2023 at 7:37 PM David Baldi  wrote:...  in the absence of a good shoulder you can build up the center of the well with Gorilla tape. I prefer starting with two layers of tubeless tape to get the seal, and then gradually building up the center with a narrower strip of Gorilla tape until, with the tire mounted, the bead is super tight even in the well. Which also means it sucks getting it over the rim in the first place, and that you'll probably need to do it a few times until you nail it. By using a thinner width for the gorilla tape, you create, if not a shoulder, at least something of a lip to keep the beat from going back to center in the case of a flat. Though IME the orange seal connection the forms at the bead has always been enough to keep it in place. 



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Re: [RBW] A College Clem

2023-08-06 Thread Jay Lonner
Another consideration is the climate where your son will be attending college. Road salt is a good way to trash a bike, or at least the drivetrain. It happened to my XO-1 after my first winter in Wisconsin — after that I road a sacrificial beater.My oldest daughter went to college in sunny LA and I bought her a used Trek that lasted for a few years before it got stolen. There’s also an argument to be made that we get too hung up on attachment to material things. If you can embrace the mindset that it’s just a bike, and that bikes are meant to be ridden and can always be replaced, then that renders all of the above moot. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Aug 6, 2023, at 6:50 AM, Mike Davis  wrote:I've spent over 30 years on college campuses and 20 of those with an Atlantis. If I ride to work, it stays in my office until I leave. I have seen literally hundreds of bikes stripped and stolen. If you can't keep it indoors,my advice is a 80-90s steel MTB frame that fits. On Sun, Aug 6, 2023, 9:35 AM Johnny Alien <johnny.alien...@gmail.com> wrote:I know nothing about college theft BUT if he is relying on bus transportation as well I am 99.9% positive that a Clem that size won't work with their racks. If thats the case then more often than not the bike won't get used. Side note...judging by photos the 59 Clem looks like a really good fit. Side, side note...congrats to both you and your kid!! On Sunday, August 6, 2023 at 8:08:30 AM UTC-4 Bill Schairer wrote:I'll take the middle ground.  Let him get the lay of the land before making a decision.On Sunday, August 6, 2023 at 12:53:46 AM UTC-7 Luke Hendrickson wrote:Do it!!! What a way for him to think of your father and remember him. On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 10:56:15 PM UTC-7 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:DON'T DO IT !I am collectively in the same thought as the others before my post. Save the Clem Smith Jr. "L"  for after his college years for him to thoroughly appreciate it, as a graduation present.  Yes, the likelihood of it getting stolen is very high in a college setting. Buy him a second hand bicycle to ride to college. If it does get stolen, you will be heart-broken and have a very difficult time forgiving yourself for allowing him to ride the Clem to college.  Rivendell bicycles are very special and their owners treat them well with the utmost care. *The Clem will not fit on the bicycle rack of a transit bus. It is nearly 80" long.* Kim HetzelYelm, WA. On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 9:23:44 PM UTC-7 Josiah Anderson wrote:I'm going to go against others' strong opinions here. It probably depends on where exactly he's going, but a Riv can be fine on a college campus if he's careful. My Crust and Rivendell have both survived college campus life at the University of Montana with me. I've had to use all sorts of creativity for keeping them inside in Montana winters; they've ended up under my bed, hanging in a closet, in the garage at work, in my living room in the house I live in now, and the list goes on and on. When leaving them locked up, my thinking is that they don't look like fancy modern bikes that would be attractive to theives, and if they are locked well (I usually use two u-locks if leaving for more than a couple hours) then the theives will go for the abundance of basic modern mountain bikes locked with cables instead. It's worked well for me for the past three years, and I know several others who have ridden nice bikes on college campuses for many years. Lock it up well, don't completely ignore it and it'll be fine. And if it's not, then at least it was being loved and not just sitting around.Josiah AndersonMissoula, MTLe sam. 5 août 2023 à 19:56, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <jonasa...@gmail.com> a écrit :It nearly kills me to say it, but my older son will be heading to college in a year. Freshman aren’t to bring cars to campus, so that leaves buses, bikes, and your own two feet for transportation. My boys have grown up riding Clem Hs; this son rides a 52 cm cast-off from my husband (who doesn’t ride, sigh). My 6’3” Dad had a blue 59 cm Clem on order when he died suddenly in 2020, and his blue Clem has sat, boxed, waiting for my boy to grow into it. I lugged the gargantuan box up from the basement last week to see how if the bike would fit. “Now that I’ve obtained optimal height,” my son is fond of saying… Anyway, he’s 6’1” now (likely still growing) and I need him to decide if he wants to stick with his old Clem H (that he was fond of) or settle into this Clem L. Because whichever bike he chooses is getting new wheels, dyno and fenders and going to college with him. At first he was opposed to the idea of a new Clem; he liked his old Clem, thought it looked cool. But after the - as he calls it - Big Bike was assembled, he really began to like it. “It looks elegant,” he said. It really does, all long and lithe, in blue and silver. He put his saddle and bags on the bike and we test rode it tonight. He said, “I am re

[RBW] Atlas tubeless?

2023-08-04 Thread Jay Lonner
My Big Bens are nearing end of life and I’m curious about setting up my 
Hunq tubeless. But I have Atlas rims, which Velocity says is a no-go. 
However if you scroll through the comments on this article, John Watson 
from the Radavist says they set up nicely:

https://theradavist.com/rivendell-hunqapillar-review/

So why would I want to do this? Mostly to get experience working with 
tubeless setups. My full-squish MTB and gravel/bikepacking rig are 
tubeless, and if/when I encounter issues with either of them (esp. if I’m 
in a remote locale) I’d like to have some hands-on knowledge with 
troubleshooting tubeless systems. I already have an air compressor, so 
basically for the cost of some tape and sealant I’d be good to go.

Anybody have experience with making non-tubeless rims play nicely tubeless? 
Tips or tricks to share? Or is it just a bad idea, and should I resign 
myself to getting some new wheels built with Cliffhangers? I’d hate to have 
the Hunq out of commission that long, but if I timed it to coincide with 
out-of-town travel it probably wouldn’t be that big a deal.

One last question — Cliffhangers are wider than Atlases by about 4.6 mm. 
How would that affect fender clearance? My intuition is that wider rims 
should result in a flatter tire arc, and potentially make it possible to go 
slightly wider if I wanted to. I have 50s now, and would like to be able to 
move up to 55s or even 60s.

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

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Re: [RBW] Ride (Push) Report: A Tour of Three Valleys

2023-07-31 Thread Jay Lonner
John,Sorry to reply to the group, but I sent you a PM a few days ago that maybe got caught in a spam filter or something. Anyway, if it’s OK I’d like to ask you a few logistical questions about this trip, I have some time off at the end of August and this route is very compelling.Thanks,Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Jul 29, 2023, at 9:08 PM, John Rinker  wrote:A five-hour push up a steep, rock-strewn track isn't necessarily what I look for as I pour over topo maps looking for places to explore in my neck of the woods, but such surprises come with the territory out here in British Columbia when one wants to strike out into the wilderness and traverse from one valley to the next. This was the plan: to ride from home and up the Slocan River valley, cross over into the Columbia River valley, then cross over again into the Granby River valley, and then loop back crossing back through each valley until we end up home again. Lots of up. Lots of down. And, lots of water!<20230711_100624.jpeg>Like many places this summer, the interior rainforest of BC is way too hot to ride or push bikes up sharp slopes even with the promise of icy creeks and clear rivers in which to cool off. But, a couple of weeks ago, a friend and I climbed through a window of fresh, rainy weather to explore the Valkyr and Monashee ranges on our way across three valleys.I love a tour that begins in my front yard. No cars, no hassle, and because I live on the mountain, the first 5 km is all downhill. Of course, at the end of the adventure that last 5 km can be a tough one.Craig and I met at the trailhead of Slocan Valley Rail Trail which follows the Slocan River for about 50km (You've seen photos of my favorite swimming holes many times before) and, fully loaded for a self-supported adventure in the mountains, set off on a 6-day trip of pedaling, pushing, swimming and fly-fishing. Spotting grizzlies was also a top priority.Craig is a great guy to cycle with because our rides are never about distances covered but about the experiences and enjoyment within each kilometer. He's super-mellow, a fine camp cook, and knows well where the trout like to spend their days. We enjoy a lot of time off the bikes checking out the forests, the rocks (Craig's a geologist), and the rivers- all part of the scenery through which we like to travel.Much of our riding took us over remote forest roads where we scarcely encountered another vehicle. We spent time on old rail trails, the longest being the historic Columbia-Western from Grand Forks to Castlegar. This 100+ km section includes some very dramatic trestles high above the Arrow Lakes and several tunnels. The longest of these curves through the mountain for about a kilometer and leaves one riding in cold, eerie darkness for a spell. We rode through the remnants of the Octopus Creek fire from 2021 which burned more than 18,000 hectares of BC forest. It's both a sobering reminder of how tenuous our place in the forest here is, and also how resilient life adapted to this environment can be. Everywhere there was new growth, wildflowers, and even many live, healthy trees standing just meters away from the burnt-out shells of fir and ponderosa pine.There was, of course, the slog up Canyon Creek road which took us out of the Slocan Valley and into the Columbia River valley. At an average grade of 12% up a track cut for powerline maintenance, this surface was mostly loose, rounded rock the size of bowling balls, baby heads, and baseballs and required great effort not only to keep our bikes upright but also our feet firmly planted on the ground. Even when the slope exceeded 20%, any patch of packed dirt to roll over seemed a respite from the rocks that fought back against our efforts to roll our loaded bikes uphill. Thankfully, the sun stayed hidden behind thick cloud cover and the higher we pushed the more we found ourselves surrounded in cool mist. Cresting the Valkyre after five hours, we were met with an increasingly rideable forest road that shot us down toward the lower Arrow Lakes.The absolute best thing about biking around the mountains of BC is that cool, fresh water is never far away with snow still melting off the peaks in mid-July. And so even when the clouds abated revealing a fierce sun, a refreshing dip in a creek, river or lake was often just around the next bend or at the bottom of the next hill. When we rode over the Monashees and into the Granby River Valley, we followed Burrell Creek until it joined the Granby, ever vigilant for swimming holes and eddies of trout.This ride is about a 350km circuit and 6 days was a very comfortable pace in which to complete it. The big push over Canyon Creek ups the challenge level, but mostly it was super pleasant riding- climbing and descending at comfortable grades. We spent a lot of time in or near the various creeks and rivers along which we traveled. It was, in fact, probably as much a swimming tour as it was a bikepacking tour. Had 

[RBW] DIY Nitto rack hoop

2023-07-12 Thread Jay Lonner
One of the downsides of the Big Back Rack is that it doesn’t come with the 
tombstone/backstop feature that hooks so nicely into the leather patch 
designed for that purpose on my large SaddlesSack. I’m thinking of making 
one myself using daruma fixtures and a rack stay bent to fit. Does anybody 
have experience with this sort of fabrication? Can you get a nice radius 
bend with a bench vise and a soup can, or do you need a tubing bender? 
Alternatively — and this is a long shot — if anybody has an old or damaged 
rack with this feature, I’d be interested in buying it and trying my hand 
at a tombstone transplant.

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

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[RBW] WTB: Olive Sackville panniers, handlebar bag, and hub area bags + rack

2023-06-25 Thread Jay P
Hello,

I've been keeping my eye out but very few pop up.  If you have any of the 
WTB that you might part with, please be in touch -

Jay

Greenbrae, CA

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[RBW] Re: Let’s say I made my Clem into a “gravel bike”

2023-06-24 Thread Jay LePree
Dear all:

1)  The choice of fenders, I believe, shall be decided by the number of 
sticks and branches one will encounter on a ride.  When I commute in the 
rain, I use my fully, long fenderd bike. I found that the long fenders that 
Riv. sells are best for keeping my feet dry.  The flap on my front fender 
is, perhaps a 1/2" from the ground.  This is perfect for rain, but a drag, 
literally, when riding through the gravel woody path that I use.  To avoid, 
leaves, sticks, branches from being "sucked up" into the fenders, I go with 
fenderless bikes.  When it ranis, I take the roads with the long fenders.
2) Choice of tires is like asking choice of shoes, saddles, etc.   I use 
the WTB Byway 47 mm tires on my Platy. These tires have a smooth pattern 
down the center.  I have ridden many gravel paths in Minnewaska state park 
near Stone Ridge, NY and have found them fine.  However on really steep 
sections or when I encounter mud, I do wish for some knobs on my back 
wheel.  I may try these tires for this reason:
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/components/tyres/gravel-bike-tyres/continental-terra-speed/
Kind regards,
Jay LePree
Demarest, NJ
On Saturday, June 3, 2023 at 4:15:22 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I love pavement. But I’ve been on two gravel rides in the last month and I 
> rode a Platy either time and it wasn’t my favorite for that bike. But, I 
> have my old 2019 52 cm Clem L, and it doesn’t have a dedicated purpose 
> right now and shouldn’t that be the bike for rough and tough stuff like 
> gravel? Also, my Platys are prisses. 
>
> BUT. I’m not good at gravel. I have no idea what the kids are doing these 
> days. I have questions, and you have answers.
>
> 1. Can I keep my VO wavy fenders on a gravel bike? Here’s what I have, and 
> they say up to 50 mm tire will fit:[image: IMG_5029.jpeg]
> 2. Slick or knobby? I can’t even get a straight answer on this. Which is 
> better? If it matters about the rider, this will be for a rider with a 
> healthy fear of crashing.
>
> 3. How wide? I have 42s on my bikes now and I don’t feel like they are 
> wide enough. 
>
> 4. Tubeless or no? These wheels are tubeless-compatible but I put a tube 
> in them because I wasn’t riding enough to keep the sealant circulating. But 
> that can be changed right quick.
>
> Here is my Clem in its current configuration, and yes, I know the 
> Backabikes gotta go. 
>
> [image: IMG_1812.jpeg]
> Thanks for your help!
> Leah 
>

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Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

2023-06-23 Thread Jay Lonner
Bike fit remains a mystery to me. I’ve read (and re-read) various articles like “The Myth of KOPS” and the sizing and fit advice on PJW’s website, and still find myself resorting to trial and error. Of course there are various proprietary fit systems, which people are happy to charge you for, but even those seem geared toward more racer-y types, and not the Riv-ish style of setting handlebars at or above the level of the saddle.Proper fit recently has come into renewed focus for me, as I sustained an ulnar nerve injury to my left hand while riding the Oregon Outback last month. Presumably a more dialed-in fit might have prevented this from occurring. Kim makes the point that his cockpit is comfortable, but I understand Garth to be saying that he may be even more comfortable with a more systematic approach to fit. I’m coming around to Garth’s point of view that long-torsoed folks like myself might do better to focus on stem extension rather than maximizing saddle setback, with the goal of having enough reach so that the core is more engaged and less pressure is placed on the hands.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Jun 23, 2023, at 4:57 AM, Garth  wrote:Kim, What you describe is exactly my point, that more forward reach/length within a given frame is accomplished with a longer stem(and/or bar choice), not a more setback post. That's why there are so many stem lengths available(from very short to very long), and so little seatpost setback variation. Hence I said using the post alone for more forward frame reach is akin to "going the wrong direction" , given the rider is riding in their sweet spot over the bottom bracket for their given crank length. A rider with longer relative torso calls for frame that is designed for it, as in a longer top tube(frame reach) plus an appropriately reach to the bars(stem plus bar). (The 2021 Clem version you have should qualify as having an atypically long frame reach). Typically the mega setback posts were a cheap aftermarket compensation for mountain bike frames back in the 80's that often came with a 73d STA(or steeper) which equates to the saddle being appx. 13mm closer to the BB compared to a 72d STA. Believe it or not there were are still are some saddles that have even shorter rails than a Brooks which only adds to the mayhem. Just like fitting clothes, someone that has a longer torso needs appropriately long shirts and/or pants with sufficient rise for their given proportions. One has to ask though, in what way is the torso long-er ? Is it from a longer spine, a taller pelvis, both or other ? You wouldn't just buy mega high rise pants to make up for a relatively longer spine if your pelvis is of "normal" relation, you'd stick with appropriate rise pants and longer bodied shirts. With a bike whether the longer torso length is from a taller pelvis height or longer spine the pelvic floor to pedal relation over BB remains the same, hence it doesn't need altered. What's called for is more forward room. The longer torso length is appropriately fitted with a lengthened reach to the bar/stem combo. 



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Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

2023-06-16 Thread Jay Lonner
> My Cheviot and Charlie are setup with the same drive train almost: 46/30 
> double in front and 11-40 9 or 10 speed cassette in back with friction 
> shifting and clutch derailers (GRX rx810 on the Charlie, SRAM GX long on the 
> Cheviot). I should write a whole post about the wonderful discovery of the 
> GRX RX810, it's what every bike I've ever had was missing for a rock solid 
> drivetrain. 

I’d be interested in hearing more about your (or anybody else’s) experiences 
with this derailer.

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

Sent from my Atari 400

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Re: [RBW] boscomoose - pictures, experiences, comparisons?

2023-05-20 Thread Jay Lonner
I had them on my Hunq when I first got it, and liked them well enough. Also experimented with non-moose Boscos and like others have mentioned found them way too flexy. When I went back to the mooses I found myself sitting more upright than I wanted, which maybe would be less of an issue for current stretched-out Riv designs. I have since settled on Jones bars and find them to be a great match for the Hunq. I would also consider Tumbleweed Persuader bars. I like wide handlebars and I do not lie (h/t Sir Mix-a-Lot). Whatbars.com is a helpful resource.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On May 20, 2023, at 9:41 AM, Paul Richardson  wrote:howdy folksi've been doing the best digging i can and cannot seem to wrangle very many pictures of rivs with boscomoose bars.  have you tried them?  did you like them?  i ride big bikes, so i'm not too concerned about knee strike on the bar-ends, which i gather can be a drawback for some.  their fixedness obviously makes for a riskier purchase than separate stem+bars, so i'd love to hear your experience before i take the plunge!thanks in advancepaultakoma park, md.



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[RBW] Re: Getting in over my head

2023-05-17 Thread Jay LePree
Leah - It is Jersey Jay.  Platypus owner via Analogue.  It seems that while 
the ride was unpleasant, you did keep up, which is quite impressive.  I am 
approach my 56th trip around the sun in Dec, and about 15 years ago, much 
attibutable to what you experienced, I stopped my group rides.  It is true 
that a group ride will make one a stronger rider, but at some point, I 
realized that I did not need to be a stronger rider and struck out on my 
own.  I noticed another poster mentioned that crashes due occur on some of 
these group rides, particularly that fast ones.  Yes, I have observed 
them.  The pros can ride inches away from the wheels of those in front of 
and behind them.  We are not pros and I saw crashes happen because of it.  
I  think this is exacerbated by the growth of Swift, etc.  Riders have 
increasingly big engines, but not the riding skills to harness them safely 
in a group ride.  

IF (a big IF) I do go back to group rides (we have a northern NJ touring 
group where I live), it will be with the C and C+ group rides.  You get to 
meet new people, and they have been traditionally respectful of agreed upon 
pace.  (Athough there, I have seen speed creep up into the B to B+ pace.)

Enjoy the ride,

Jay 
Demarest, NJ

On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 9:13:53 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:

> I just want to talk bikes. I don’t have anything to post FS or WTB…I just 
> want to tell Riv people this dumb story that happened this morning. You can 
> laugh or you can roll your eyes, or you can chime in with your own dumb 
> story of getting in over your own dumb heads.
>
> This is my second season of club riding. I was new to it last year, and 
> now that our weather is finally cooperating, I’m back.
>
> Last week, our bike club started a new ride. It would be on Monday 
> mornings and only 5 miles from my house. The pace was to be 
> “conversational” which I took to mean ‘riding at a pace you can still have 
> a conversation at.’ (I now know that could not be what it meant.) The route 
> would be new. The details were fuzzy - word was, the ride leader would make 
> decisions about pace and miles once people arrived. Now, I know Platypuses 
> are not going to fare well in the 18-21 mph crowd, but I knew that two 
> women upwards of 70 did this ride last week. I figured I’d be fine.
>
> I was the second to arrive; the first being the president of our bike 
> club. He was pulling his gravel bike out of his truck. He’s a roadie and he 
> leads the 17-18 mph groups. Hmmm.  We’re friendly; I’m glad to know one 
> person on the ride, but if he is here, how fast are we going? Two more 
> people arrive; both men, roadies, and they pull jet-black, lethal-looking, 
> feather-light carbon bikes from their vehicles. They are strangers to me.
>
> Ok, well, it’s going to be fine. Who cares if you’re the only woman. So 
> what if you’re wearing your pink pants. Clutching the wide, sweepy bars of 
> your sparkly pink Platypus. Their eyes are hidden behind their Oakleys, and 
> I imagine what they are thinking - “She cannot be serious.” 
>
> Behind my Oakleys, I am thinking, “I cannot be serious.” 
>
> The three of them begin to discuss the route and the pace. The ride leader 
> says, “The route is hilly. Let’s keep a 17 mph pace in the flats.” As soon 
> as I hear that the route is hilly, I want OUT. I have always kept up in my 
> club rides, but hills are the one thing that the Platypus does not do well. 
> Oh, a Platypus can climb, but don’t ask it to do it at high speeds. I use 
> momentum to get me uphill. To compensate, I always shoot ahead of the 
> group, but I slow on the incline and those carbon bikes are gaining on me 
> near the top. About the time they catch me, I’m back up to speed and am 
> innocent of causing anyone to slow down, but that extra effort is the price 
> I pay. The game is: Never Make Them Slow Down For You Even If You Have A 
> Heart Attack. 
>
> My mind is searching for a way out. I don’t have a good feeling about 
> this. It’s early in the season. Maybe if I was in tip top, but today? But 
> then came introductions. J, the president says, “This is Leah. She’s fine. 
> She can keep up with us.” Liar, I think.
>
> And with that, we are off.
>
> We hit a hill right out the gate. I’m toward the back because I don’t know 
> the route. They are calmly approaching that hill, not changing speed. I’m 
> confused. They’re slowing me up; it’s too late for me to get around them. I 
> will not have the burst of speed I need to start that hill. And worse, I’m 
> in too high of a gear. I have friction shifting - and now I’m committed. I 
> am desperate not to look like a fool. I am standing on my pedals, wishing 
> for the first time in my life that I am 10 pounds heavier. All my weight on 
> the left pedal. All my weig

Re: [RBW] What do I replace coroplast with in Sackville

2023-04-18 Thread Jay Lonner
I’ve looked more into the idea of an external saddlebag support, and wouldn’t you know it the good folks at Surly thought of it first: https://surlybikes.com/parts/tv_tray I just ordered one and will report back.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Apr 17, 2023, at 8:46 PM, Jay Lonner  wrote:I’ve been thinking about this as well. Replacement coroplast is the obvious answer, and I’ve saved a stash of campaign signs from last November’s election for just this purpose. But I’ve also been thinking about getting rid of the coroplast entirely, and zip-tying something like a kitchen wire cooling rack (like for baking cookies) to the top of my rear cargo rack to provide support to the saddlebag from underneath. This would probably be more durable, and would also eliminate the problem of small items diving underneath the coroplast inside the saddlebag. I’ll be curious to learn what clever solutions others have come up with.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Apr 17, 2023, at 8:06 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:Mine is all bendy and collapsey in my medium SaddleSack. What are you folks putting in there to replace it? Joe Bernard 



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Re: [RBW] What do I replace coroplast with in Sackville

2023-04-17 Thread Jay Lonner
I’ve been thinking about this as well. Replacement coroplast is the obvious answer, and I’ve saved a stash of campaign signs from last November’s election for just this purpose. But I’ve also been thinking about getting rid of the coroplast entirely, and zip-tying something like a kitchen wire cooling rack (like for baking cookies) to the top of my rear cargo rack to provide support to the saddlebag from underneath. This would probably be more durable, and would also eliminate the problem of small items diving underneath the coroplast inside the saddlebag. I’ll be curious to learn what clever solutions others have come up with.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Apr 17, 2023, at 8:06 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:Mine is all bendy and collapsey in my medium SaddleSack. What are you folks putting in there to replace it? Joe Bernard 



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Re: [RBW] Gus Boots build

2023-04-16 Thread Jay Lonner
Jacob I have one additional question — when using a large Fabio’s Chest do you use any sort of rack or support such as a Pec Deck? I can’t see one in the photo, but maybe that’s your Jammer?Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Apr 16, 2023, at 5:13 PM, Jacob Byard  wrote:
Hello All- I’ve had enough time on the Gus Boots to have a few opinions. Pics- https://imgur.com/a/0l7aA17The build is as follows-Frame: Gus Boots XLCrankset- White Industries M30 with 32 tooth chainringBottom bracket- White IndustriesRear derailleur- SRAM GX AXSRear cassette- SRAM Eagle 11-50 12 speedWheels- Velocity Cliffhanger laced to some cheap Shimano hubsBrakes- Paul MotolitesLevers- Paul Love LeversShifter- SRAM AXS shifterHandlebar- Simworks Ramble barStem- Industry Nine 50mmSeatpost- KS Dropper 27.2 sanded to fit 26.8Dropper lever- Cheap KS leverGrips- Ergon Bar ends- SQ Labs Inner Bar EndsSaddle- Brooks B17 with cut outTires- RH Fleecer Ridge 700x55 in the endurance casingFront bag support- Swood T-RackFront bag- Road Runner Jammer Stem pouches- Makeshifter Canvas WorksThat covers everything, I think.I’ve swapped through a few cockpit setups before settling on this one. The Ramble bars work really well for me. Maybe the grip area needs to be a touch longer but I’ve gotten used to it. I still need to wrap the hooks but haven’t gotten around to it. SRAM just released a new AXS shifter and I believe it’s a bit smaller so I might change that out. The dropper lever needs to be changed but I’ll sort that out later. I love wireless shifting. Friction and indexing are great and I have other bikes running both. If I had the money all my bikes would be electronic shifting. SRAM AXS is so easy to set up and works wonderfully. I turned the 27.2mm dropper post into a 26.8mm dropper post. It works but not it’s not great. I believe the outer wall is too thin now and too much pressure is being applied to the internals of the post. It’s very slow to return. Once I get a little extra cash I plan to buy a seat post reaming tool and convert it to a 27.2mm seat tube. Then I’ll get a new dropper (SRAM makes an AXS wireless model…) and lever. I might even drill a hole in the seat tube to allow for internal routing (unless I go the wireless route). I’m not sure how many miles I’ve logged (400-500?) but it’s handled everything well. This weekend I went bikepacking at the FInger Lakes. The bike was heavier but I didn’t notice it. Even down steep hills I felt very comfortable and in control. A few weeks back we went to Asheville and rode all over Bent Creek. That was just perfect. With the RH tires I had plenty of grip. I noticed when I had RH slicks the rear tended to lose traction. I’m attributing this to the long chainstays? After switching to the Fleecer Ridge model that problem went away. My local PA rides have mostly been country roads or rail trails. I did try a rack and basket set up but the front wheel flop was annoying. A large Fabio’s Chest  works well. The Road Runner Jammer is perfect for day rides and paired nicely with the panniers for an overnighter. All in all I like the bike and would probably purchase it again. The handling is excellent and the ride is nice. The seat tube is annoying and I would like it to be a little shorter. I use a rack for short drives but on longer trips I end up taking the wheels off and put the bike in my car. Rim brakes are kind of annoying too. Fitting a rack is a pain because you have to work around the Motolites. The Tumbleweed T-Rack works fine. One of my Surly racks wouldn’t work. That’s a minor issue though. If there’s any questions just let me know. Cheers,Jacob



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Re: [RBW] Gus Boots build

2023-04-16 Thread Jay Lonner
That looks great. I had a Gus Boots in my cart on the day they were released but ended up deciding to go in a different direction. Rim brakes were one of factors that deterred me. I think my build would have been very close to yours, though.Not to hijack your thread, but I was very interested to learn about your experience with wireless shifting. I’m in the process of speccing a current generation dual suspension trail bike and the SRAM AXS system is one of the options offered. At first I was like “nah” but now you’ve got me reconsidering. It’s occurred to me as I’ve been demoing bikes that Grant’s mantra “Just Ride” cuts both ways — sure you can do a lot on a Rivendell, but other approaches also have their place. It’s all biking; let a thousand flowers bloom.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Apr 16, 2023, at 5:13 PM, Jacob Byard  wrote:
Hello All- I’ve had enough time on the Gus Boots to have a few opinions. Pics- https://imgur.com/a/0l7aA17The build is as follows-Frame: Gus Boots XLCrankset- White Industries M30 with 32 tooth chainringBottom bracket- White IndustriesRear derailleur- SRAM GX AXSRear cassette- SRAM Eagle 11-50 12 speedWheels- Velocity Cliffhanger laced to some cheap Shimano hubsBrakes- Paul MotolitesLevers- Paul Love LeversShifter- SRAM AXS shifterHandlebar- Simworks Ramble barStem- Industry Nine 50mmSeatpost- KS Dropper 27.2 sanded to fit 26.8Dropper lever- Cheap KS leverGrips- Ergon Bar ends- SQ Labs Inner Bar EndsSaddle- Brooks B17 with cut outTires- RH Fleecer Ridge 700x55 in the endurance casingFront bag support- Swood T-RackFront bag- Road Runner Jammer Stem pouches- Makeshifter Canvas WorksThat covers everything, I think.I’ve swapped through a few cockpit setups before settling on this one. The Ramble bars work really well for me. Maybe the grip area needs to be a touch longer but I’ve gotten used to it. I still need to wrap the hooks but haven’t gotten around to it. SRAM just released a new AXS shifter and I believe it’s a bit smaller so I might change that out. The dropper lever needs to be changed but I’ll sort that out later. I love wireless shifting. Friction and indexing are great and I have other bikes running both. If I had the money all my bikes would be electronic shifting. SRAM AXS is so easy to set up and works wonderfully. I turned the 27.2mm dropper post into a 26.8mm dropper post. It works but not it’s not great. I believe the outer wall is too thin now and too much pressure is being applied to the internals of the post. It’s very slow to return. Once I get a little extra cash I plan to buy a seat post reaming tool and convert it to a 27.2mm seat tube. Then I’ll get a new dropper (SRAM makes an AXS wireless model…) and lever. I might even drill a hole in the seat tube to allow for internal routing (unless I go the wireless route). I’m not sure how many miles I’ve logged (400-500?) but it’s handled everything well. This weekend I went bikepacking at the FInger Lakes. The bike was heavier but I didn’t notice it. Even down steep hills I felt very comfortable and in control. A few weeks back we went to Asheville and rode all over Bent Creek. That was just perfect. With the RH tires I had plenty of grip. I noticed when I had RH slicks the rear tended to lose traction. I’m attributing this to the long chainstays? After switching to the Fleecer Ridge model that problem went away. My local PA rides have mostly been country roads or rail trails. I did try a rack and basket set up but the front wheel flop was annoying. A large Fabio’s Chest  works well. The Road Runner Jammer is perfect for day rides and paired nicely with the panniers for an overnighter. All in all I like the bike and would probably purchase it again. The handling is excellent and the ride is nice. The seat tube is annoying and I would like it to be a little shorter. I use a rack for short drives but on longer trips I end up taking the wheels off and put the bike in my car. Rim brakes are kind of annoying too. Fitting a rack is a pain because you have to work around the Motolites. The Tumbleweed T-Rack works fine. One of my Surly racks wouldn’t work. That’s a minor issue though. If there’s any questions just let me know. Cheers,Jacob



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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv-ish bikes for sale, terms apply

2023-04-13 Thread Jay Lonner
Yes indeed Keith, and it looks like both bikes will soon be on their way to another good home. LHT’s of that era were such an incredible value — these bikes should be on the road for many years to come.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Apr 13, 2023, at 5:07 PM, iamkeith  wrote:Fantastic!  That green one is the frame I sold to you yars ago when my own daughter no longer needed it, right?  It makes me happy to see the pictures again, and to know it might be passed on to yet another list member!On Thursday, April 13, 2023 at 10:14:08 AM UTC-6 Jay Lonner wrote:Some years ago I built up Surly Long Haul Truckers for my adolescent daughters. Those daughters are now adults, and these bikes are in need of a new home. The black bike measures 20” from the center of the crank to the center of the seat cluster, the green one 19”. The fork steerers are uncut.The builds are very Riv-ish. Sugino cranks, Deore rear derailers, VO Porteur bars, SunTour friction thumbshifters, Tektro Oryx brakes. One bike has XT hubs, the other XTR. Tubus Cargo rear racks fitted with Busch and Muller 4D Toplights, Nitto M12 front racks with baskets. Paul Gino light mounts on the forks.Now here’s the catch — even though a lot of these parts are valuable, I’m not really interested in holding out for top dollar. I’d rather see these bikes get used in support of some sort of cycling advocacy. There’s a local non-profit community bike shop where I could drop them off, no problem. But I also remember a time in my life when money was tight and I had young daughters that I wanted to introduce to biking. I’m wondering if any of you kindred spirits out there in Riv-land  meet that description, and might be interested in working out some sort of deal for picking up one or both of these bikes on the cheap. Professional bargain hunters and/or eBay resellers need not apply — I reserve the right to be choosy.Jay LonnerBellingham, WA



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[RBW] Riv-ish bikes for sale, terms apply

2023-04-13 Thread Jay Lonner
Some years ago I built up Surly Long Haul Truckers for my adolescent 
daughters. Those daughters are now adults, and these bikes are in need of a 
new home. The black bike measures 20” from the center of the crank to the 
center of the seat cluster, the green one 19”. The fork steerers are uncut.

The builds are very Riv-ish. Sugino cranks, Deore rear derailers, VO 
Porteur bars, SunTour friction thumbshifters, Tektro Oryx brakes. One bike 
has XT hubs, the other XTR. Tubus Cargo rear racks fitted with Busch and 
Muller 4D Toplights, Nitto M12 front racks with baskets. Paul Gino light 
mounts on the forks.

Now here’s the catch — even though a lot of these parts are valuable, I’m 
not really interested in holding out for top dollar. I’d rather see these 
bikes get used in support of some sort of cycling advocacy. There’s a local 
non-profit community bike shop where I could drop them off, no problem. But 
I also remember a time in my life when money was tight and I had young 
daughters that I wanted to introduce to biking. I’m wondering if any of you 
kindred spirits out there in Riv-land  meet that description, and might be 
interested in working out some sort of deal for picking up one or both of 
these bikes on the cheap. Professional bargain hunters and/or eBay 
resellers need not apply — I reserve the right to be choosy.

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

[image: IMG_0120.jpeg]

[image: IMG_0119.jpeg]







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[RBW] Re: 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

2023-04-12 Thread Jay P
This thread on ibob has some info on this subject:

https://groups.google.com/g/internet-bob/c/88zkSC-6JU4/m/ZKwO1smGHwAJ

Jay P.
Reno, NV

On Wednesday, April 12, 2023 at 8:42:42 PM UTC-6 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> [image: Screenshot 2023-04-12 at 10.40.34 PM.png]
>
> Hi all — I'm comparing 26.8 seatposts and their varying setback. I'd like 
> the saddle on my MB-2 to be further back. 
>
> Does anyone have any firsthand experience with how a Thompson and Nitto 
> S83 compare in terms of setback? I've been searching around and can't find 
> any definitive measurements. 
>
> I'm currently running a Suntour XC Pro seatpost and it looks like either 
> of the above will give me more setback than I currently have.  
>
> I've tried and very much did *not* like the IRD wayback seatpost, it 
> slips. Others have reported the same. Don't buy this seatpost! 
>
> The vintage SR MTE-100 is good, solid, I run one on my Appaloosa. Would 
> rather try something different. Plus, they're hard to find! 
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Possum merino socks, XL, raspberry

2023-03-20 Thread Jay P
Bought these and wore them for 10 minutes on the sofa before realizing they 
are very warm and make my feet way too hot.

https://www.rivbike.com/products/copy-of-possum-merino-brim-beanie  (URL 
says beanie but goes to socks)

Selling just to find them a home (that's not goodwill) -- they're great 
socks but .  very very soft and warm and slightly fluffy

$20 shipped to you (rather than $25 now + tax + shipping) (may take a few 
days)

If interested please DM -

Jay P
Marin, CA


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Re: [RBW] Saddle height and PBH

2023-03-11 Thread Jay Lonner
So here’s a 3-month followup for those interested. Brief recap: I was querying the list about the ~18 cm difference between my 93 cm PBH and 75 cm saddle height, which is at odds with the recommended ~10-11 cm.First off, I decided to really make sure that I was measuring my PBH accurately. My prior estimate of 93-94 cm was based on Riv’s recommendation to put a yardstick between your legs and pretend like you’re trying to lift yourself off the ground. It’s a clever descriptor, but not foolproof — to some extent the value you get depends on how much discomfort you can put up with. This time I went with “firm but not intolerable pressure” as an endpoint, instead of “trying out for the Vienna Boys’ Choir.” After multiple measurements I wound up with a new PBH of 91 cm.I then raised my saddle from 75 to 79 cm, which brought things to a much more reasonable 12 cm difference between saddle height and PBH. The Catalyst pedals that I favor, which are designed for midfoot pedaling, account for another 1-2 cm, per the manufacturer’s recommendation. So that brings me squarely in line with the 10-11 cm guideline.So how does it feel? I have to say, much better. Pedaling efficiency seems improved, and it feels like I’m engaging my core more. My shoulders are more relaxed, and the hand numbness that I’ve struggled with off and on for years has basically resolved. My hamstrings also seem less tight. In this more leaned over posture, the backs of my upper thighs were brushing against my B68, so I switched back to a B17 (no the B68 isn’t for sale).I guess the moral of the story is that I’ve never approached bike fit systematically — I’ve just kind of vibed my way to what seemed right, and that has been to my detriment. Thanks to everyone for the input, it’s really made a difference in my riding.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Dec 12, 2022, at 9:49 AM, Jay Lonner  wrote:I just took delivery of a new (non-Riv) bike and am dialing in the fit. I’m a little worried that the frame is too big for me, since I only have maybe 2” standover, which seems tight for a gravel bike.So I went out and measured the saddle height on my Hunq (which is a size 62). It came in at about 75cm. This gives me a solid fistful of seatpost. Then I remeasured my PBH, which is 93-94 cm depending on hard I pull. For reference, here’s the relevant page from HQ:https://www.rivbike.com/pages/pubic-bone-height-how-to-measure-your-pbhThis suggests that based on my  PBH my saddle height should be closer to 83 cm – an 8cm discrepancy. Before riding in this morning I raised my saddle height to 79 cm, basically splitting the difference. It felt weird, which of course it would after so many years at 75cm. But I made it in and my feet were in full contact with the pedals without any tippytoe maneuvers. So I guess I’ve been doing it wrong this whole time? Kind of embarrassing. Even so, according to the Riv method my saddle height is still ~4cm lower than my PBH would suggest. So I guess I’m wondering about alternative ways of determining saddle height somewhat objectively, and/or whether I should now be looking at other variables such as a fore-aft saddle positioning, saddle angle, and even saddle type (currently a B68, slammed back as far as it can go on a S83, with the nose pitched up ~10 degrees or so). Other relevant factors might be crank arm length (175mm), pedal height (Pedaling Innovations platform pedals), and shoes (Chuck Taylors, typically). Looking for the optimum balance of comfort, efficiency, and protecting my perineum.Jay LonnerBellingham, WA



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Re: [RBW] Re: Hand-Wringing: Kickstand Edition

2023-03-01 Thread Jay Lonner
Click-Stand Home Pageclick-stand.comThe Click-Stand has come up before in prior kickstand threads, and in my judgement is both functionally and aesthetically superior to the traditional Greenfield/Pletscher design. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Mar 1, 2023, at 6:40 AM, Doug H.  wrote:The kickstand on my Clem works. But, I have never liked the look of it (photo below). I bought it from Bike24 in Germany when ordering some dynamo lights as an add on to the order. I can commiserate Leah with not wanting to mess with things that work. Your example of brake pads is a good one. I get my brakes set up just right and they are working well, then I need new pads. In fact, I need new pads now! I do enjoy tinkering with bikes but always think I'll never get it set up as good as it was. Then, I do and the worry was for naught. I plan to keep using the current kickstand because it just works. DougOn Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 9:26:39 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:You’ll forgive me for this unusual thread, I know you will. You will be compassionate to your RivSister who is yearning for spring after a Michigan winter, and if she can’t ride the bikes she will talk about the bikes. I love my Rivendells. I used to hate changing anything about them - if I wore something out like brake pads or tires - I would sometimes weep about it in the parking lot of the bike shop. “It will never be the SAME!” I’d think. These poor coping skills came after wearing my Betty Foy tires to threads. The mechanic told me he’d have to get me something else for tires because he didn’t have that kind. Then he called me and told my I’d actually need a whole new WHEEL because my rim was cracked. He explained he would have to build one. After a week in that shop, my Betty was returned to me. I got a flat on my first ride. I went howling back to the shop - it was something about rim tape and it was an easy fix. But I had developed a distrust and a distaste for messing with essentials on my bikes. I’ve mostly gotten over this. Especially now that I know about upgrades and how happy they can make you. But some things just shouldn’t need to be upgraded. Some things are so familiar that when they go missing or get replaced it’s intolerable.Kickstands.My Greenfield kickstand on the raspberry Platy inexplicably snapped in the back of my van en route to the Philly Bike Expo. A local shop replaced that kickstand with the same model (joy and rapture!) but cut it a hair too short. Was it going to tip over? No. BUT IT WASN’T THE SAME, I wailed in my head. I didn’t like the new lean it gave the bike. I wanted things the way they used to be. I decided I would spring for yet another kickstand and hope it would be right.I took my Platy to my local shop and explained about the kickstand. I also brought them one of Rivendell’s new shiny rear racks to be fit to my bike. I may take that bike on a RivSister Tour this summer and needed a heavy-duty rack (not the saddlebag support I have presently). The mechanic thought he knew what I wanted and ordered me a new kickstand that he thought would be EVEN BETTER. He said this in email, so I did not get a vote. I picked up the bike today. The rear rack was expertly fitted. The kickstand…I know he meant well, but…But it wasn’t the SAME. It’s this foreign thing on my bike. Chunky and stout. It’s a Portland Design Works stand; this one, I think: https://ridepdw.com/products/power-stance-kickstandI haven’t gotten used to it. It’s been 4 hours. I don’t know if I can get used to it. This is my club ride bike and that kickstand is…a lot. The rack will get switched back - I just wanted the new one ready for plug and play for a summer tour. But what should I do about that kickstand? I could buy the one that is on my mermaid Platy. I think I want to be done with the kickstands that you have to cut to size. I’m liking that this one is adjustable. Is it as horrible as I think? I think it’s worse in real life than the photos show. Also, it’s dark and I had to alter these photos a lot so you could see well enough. Colors will be distorted. Anyway, I’m sending pics in the following post…Who will help their RivSister? Who can understand her peculiar brand of angst? Who has words of wisdom, or even constructive criticism? Who else is nutty about small things that barely matter? Who has been crying in bike shop parking lots and hand-wringing in the garage, staring at these foreign, new, transplanted parts?Pics forthcoming…Leah



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Re: [RBW] Re: Fitting the Hunqapillar for touring

2023-02-28 Thread Jay Lonner
Hi John,Looks like you’ve taken your Hunq to some pretty spectacular locales, and I’m hoping you’ll share your insights about hitting that Goldilocks level of preparedness — not packing too much, not packing too little, but being just right. I have fairly extensive backpacking experience (mostly dating before the Ray Jardine/ultralight movement) and still retain a “10 essentials” mindset (extra food, extra water, extra layers, etc). All those “extras” add up though, and it’s true that I would frequently take along stuff that I never ended up needing. But of course the whole point of preparedness is to plan for contingencies, especially when you’re in a remote location and help is far away.So in terms of bringing less than you think you need, what is your personal list of must-haves for self-supported backcountry touring? And where do you think most people go overboard?Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Feb 28, 2023, at 5:14 PM, John Rinker  wrote:Hey Johnny,Sounds like a fine trip you've got planned, and that you have been invited by your father-in-law seems a very good sign of your marriage, indeed. Your Hunq set-up seems off to a great start with the front rack and basket. I'd go to a Wald 139 as I find this the one indispensable part of my touring rig. I also really love my medium Sackville trunk. Not too sure how it compares to the Swift bag you mention, but I've found that it provides plenty of room for the essentials. For lighter touring, I use the basket and Sackville combo. For a little more luxury (bigger kitchen and more food) I run two panniers on a front low-rider which it seems you have.  Here's a photo of my set-up fully loaded: And here's the streamlined version: The one piece of touring wisdom that I'm sure many will share with you is: You need far less than you think you do.Hope this helps.Cheers, JohnOn Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 4:44:35 PM UTC-8 johnny@gmail.com wrote:Hey all, My father in-law is taking me with him on a mini bike tour down the Oregon coast this summer. It'll be between 10-14 days as we make our way down the coast from Astoria to someplace farther south :)  I'd like to upgrade some of the touring stuff because what I have is either super nice, or very basic and cheap. I did a dirt tour summer before last, a two night three day ride around a bunch of lakes near Mt Hood. It was rad. My bike is set up with some crummy $10 Craigslist panniers on a Nitto campee front rack with a Wald 135 basket. On the back I have a super cheap aluminum rack I strapped my sleeping bag to. Lastly, I have a bedrockbags frame bag, which is gorgeous. So... it's upgrade time. What I'm thinking is upgrading the rear rack and bag and sticking with the front cheap panniers. Thoughts on that approach? Or should I just get a nice front pannier set and call it a day? The bike felt overly front loaded the first go round so I was thinking of putting more weight in the back. Here are the options I've been toying with in my head:1) a rear rack and something like a Swift Zeitgeist "trunk" bagPros: Looks cool, probably more usable for the times i'm not touring, slightly less expensive option overallCons: 12L capacity may or may not be enough?2) a bigger rack and rear panniers Pros: 20L+ capacity, likely a more robust setup, with the front i'd have tons of spaceCons: more expensive and likely I won't keep a rear rack on the bike all the time because i have a front rack and basket so it may not be as useful overallI have not done any real touring before so seeking the wisdom and expertise of my Riv comrades. Thoughts and suggestions? Here's a pic from the dirt tour around Hood because all threads without pictures are flawed :) Thank you and here's to summer plans with long slow rides for days and days. 




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Re: [RBW] Paul Touring vs. Neo-retro question

2023-01-20 Thread Jay Lonner
I’ve used both, prefer the Tourings due to higher mechanical advantage. Now I run Motolites which are even better. Maybe I’m just bad at setting up cantis but switching to linear pull brakes was a big upgrade for me. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Jan 20, 2023, at 3:12 PM, greenteadrinkers  wrote:If you had to choose between the Paul Touring Canti or the Neo-Retro for a front brake, which would you pick and why? Curious about how much functional difference exists between the 2 models.Thanks,Scott



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Re: [RBW] Re: Fendering My Atlantis

2023-01-18 Thread Jay Lonner
I like SKS fenders just fine — they’re easy to install/modify, resilient to incidental contacts, and quiet while underway. They don’t have the sex appeal of something like hammered Honjos, but from a purely functional standpoint they seem more or less unimprovable. Unless I’m missing something?Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Jan 18, 2023, at 9:42 AM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:
Jay,Thanks for pointing out differences in materials fenders are made of. I'm a fenders virgin, so it's insightful! Definitely a characteristic I'll weigh heavily when I purchase a set.As a long-time user of SKS fenders, do you have any gripes with them?Scott 





On Wednesday, January 18, 2023 at 10:27:34 AM MST, Jay Lonner  wrote:



I’ve been using SKS fenders since forever, so I’m very familiar with their installation and have lots of spare parts lying around. Are there non-aesthetic benefits to metal fenders? I think back to the old Raleigh 3-speed I had as a kid, and the fenders on that bike were prone to scratches/dings and also made a loud pachinko sound when riding on gravel. Have modern boutique metal fenders found a way around these shortcomings?Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Jan 18, 2023, at 7:37 AM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:
Luke, after you get and fuss with them fenders, post the results, please.Some pictures to go with would be great.





On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 07:50:50 PM MST, Luke Hendrickson  wrote:



Scott – I ordered the Flat 65 yesterday after some consideration. I hope it’ll arrive by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week at which time I’ll hurriedly mount them. I think minimal modification will be necessary though I worry about reduced coverage due to their shape. On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 8:41:15 AM UTC-8 Scott wrote:
What did you discover? Did you by chance try the Flat 65?





On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 09:42:36 AM MST, Luke Hendrickson <phendr...@paulpath.net> wrote:



Man, wonderful info about the 74s – thank you for taking the time to relay that. The above posted photos of them show a significant amount of modification (cutting) to fit which I might be game to do however what I won’t tolerate is losing ample clearance around the tire. I’m about to head into the shop for the day and will throw the Atlantis in the stand and see if any of the dimensions of the Flat 65s would work, etc. At the very least I’ll share the mishaps I encounter as I try to push the limits of what the Atlantis can fit with you all. David – I appreciate that suggestion. I’ll throw around the dimensions of those with the mechanics today and see if they also see that working out. I feel pretty dedicated to the idea of fenders on this thing and the recent rain has left me wanting to ride more with less of a reason not to regardless of the weather. I feel like having fenders is the definitive way to make a bike a year round possibility, whether or not it’s a downpour.- Luke in rainy, hailing San FranciscoOn Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 7:34:30 AM UTC-8 DavidP wrote:That's great info, though too bad the 74s won't fit out of the box.Before giving up on 2.25s and fenders, I'd take some measurements and see if Flat 65s would work in the frame and fork (and chain in low/low). If so you should be able to get them setup with the 2.25s G-ones since they don't really have knobs (assuming the tires actually measure out to 2.25 or less).I'm thinking that Smooth 62s with 50mm tires would work on my Platy so I'd guess the Atlantis could do incrementally more.-DaveOn Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 9:10:25 AM UTC-5 psc...@gmail.com wrote:I have a set of smooth 74's in my shop for another bike (not yet fitted) and holding them up to my Atlantis, they don't fit without cutting and  heavily dimpling the fenders to fit between seat stays, also fork blades, and remove fender material around the chain stays.  Not for the faint of heart but looks possible with patience and proper jigs for setting the dimples just right.  There's little question that the fenders will fit over your tires, but on an Atlantis, it will take some work.  The problem I would worry about is this, by the time you dimple the fender enough to fit, you may have lost your clearance around the tire at those points.  If you remove metal at those edges where it is too tight then the structure of the fender is seriously compromised.  I'd go with a smooth 62 fender and 50mm tire on Atlantis and save the 74's w 2.25 tires for a bike with more clearance

Re: [RBW] Re: Fendering My Atlantis

2023-01-18 Thread Jay Lonner
I’ve been using SKS fenders since forever, so I’m very familiar with their installation and have lots of spare parts lying around. Are there non-aesthetic benefits to metal fenders? I think back to the old Raleigh 3-speed I had as a kid, and the fenders on that bike were prone to scratches/dings and also made a loud pachinko sound when riding on gravel. Have modern boutique metal fenders found a way around these shortcomings?Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Jan 18, 2023, at 7:37 AM, 'Scott Luly' via RBW Owners Bunch  wrote:
Luke, after you get and fuss with them fenders, post the results, please.Some pictures to go with would be great.





On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 07:50:50 PM MST, Luke Hendrickson  wrote:



Scott – I ordered the Flat 65 yesterday after some consideration. I hope it’ll arrive by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week at which time I’ll hurriedly mount them. I think minimal modification will be necessary though I worry about reduced coverage due to their shape. On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 8:41:15 AM UTC-8 Scott wrote:
What did you discover? Did you by chance try the Flat 65?





On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 09:42:36 AM MST, Luke Hendrickson <phendr...@paulpath.net> wrote:



Man, wonderful info about the 74s – thank you for taking the time to relay that. The above posted photos of them show a significant amount of modification (cutting) to fit which I might be game to do however what I won’t tolerate is losing ample clearance around the tire. I’m about to head into the shop for the day and will throw the Atlantis in the stand and see if any of the dimensions of the Flat 65s would work, etc. At the very least I’ll share the mishaps I encounter as I try to push the limits of what the Atlantis can fit with you all. David – I appreciate that suggestion. I’ll throw around the dimensions of those with the mechanics today and see if they also see that working out. I feel pretty dedicated to the idea of fenders on this thing and the recent rain has left me wanting to ride more with less of a reason not to regardless of the weather. I feel like having fenders is the definitive way to make a bike a year round possibility, whether or not it’s a downpour.- Luke in rainy, hailing San FranciscoOn Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 7:34:30 AM UTC-8 DavidP wrote:That's great info, though too bad the 74s won't fit out of the box.Before giving up on 2.25s and fenders, I'd take some measurements and see if Flat 65s would work in the frame and fork (and chain in low/low). If so you should be able to get them setup with the 2.25s G-ones since they don't really have knobs (assuming the tires actually measure out to 2.25 or less).I'm thinking that Smooth 62s with 50mm tires would work on my Platy so I'd guess the Atlantis could do incrementally more.-DaveOn Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 9:10:25 AM UTC-5 psc...@gmail.com wrote:I have a set of smooth 74's in my shop for another bike (not yet fitted) and holding them up to my Atlantis, they don't fit without cutting and  heavily dimpling the fenders to fit between seat stays, also fork blades, and remove fender material around the chain stays.  Not for the faint of heart but looks possible with patience and proper jigs for setting the dimples just right.  There's little question that the fenders will fit over your tires, but on an Atlantis, it will take some work.  The problem I would worry about is this, by the time you dimple the fender enough to fit, you may have lost your clearance around the tire at those points.  If you remove metal at those edges where it is too tight then the structure of the fender is seriously compromised.  I'd go with a smooth 62 fender and 50mm tire on Atlantis and save the 74's w 2.25 tires for a bike with more clearance (like a Clem).  On Thursday, January 12, 2023 at 1:21:11 AM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:Kim! Fantastic news. I had hoped the smooth would be operable as they look to have better coverage than the Flat 80. I appreciate the help here! Ordering pronto. On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 7:59:09 PM UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:Kevin Purcell is co-owner of Golden Pliers in Portland, Oregon. ...left this out.Kim.On Wednesday, January 11, 2023 at 7:51:08 PM UTC-8 Kim Hetzel wrote:Hi Luke,On my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bike, I am running a pair of Schwalbe Rapid Rob 29x2.25 ". As one of my last upgrades for my bike are the SimWorks Honjo Smooth 74 steel fenders as yet to be.   Before I came confident in a decision about which fenders I should buy for my bike, I had emailed Steve Smith, the General Manager at SimWorks in Portland, Oregon. He said that the Smooth 74s' would work. Steve refe

Re: [RBW] Re: Are Paul brakes worth the money?

2023-01-09 Thread Jay Riley
"the extra complication (bleeding) over the cable Pauls" has sent me back
to cables and calipers on 2 of my bikes.  Especially if I'm in hilly and
mountainous terrain, especially especially when touring with moderate loads
(35lbs) in that terrain, disc-brake pads wear out way faster than ol'
fashioned brake pads.  Hydraulic discs are super easy to squeeze and
modulate, and although my thumbs are already arthritic I can still stop
just fine w'cable brakes.

Jay

Jay Riley, mobile 603-498-5199


On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 8:24 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Thanks, good to know.
>
> On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 6:06 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
>> Klampers are great, the couple hydraulic systems I've tried (stock on new
>> bikes, I don't remember the brands) were marginally greater on the road but
>> not worth the extra complication (bleeding) over the cable Pauls. Your
>> results may vary on steep, rocky descents I don't ride.
>>
>> Joe Bernard
>>
>> On Thursday, January 5, 2023 at 4:46:22 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Philip: Can you (or can anyone else for that matter) say how the
>>> Klampers perform compared to TRP Hy Rds or to full hydraulics? I was just
>>> talking to my brother about the Hy Rds and wondering if the Kampers would
>>> be as powerful and modulate as well without the hydraulic complication.
>>>
>>> The Klampers have single-side pad actuation, right?
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 3:36 PM Philip Williamson 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> ... I do have a set of NIB Klampers I considered building a bike
>>>> around, but went with yet another canti-post bike (a Bruce Gordon, woot!).
>>>>
>>>
>>>> Philip
>>>> Sonoma County, Calif (did it really just stop raining?)
>>>>
>>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d8f39d12-2c9a-41d1-8a4b-d18763a33202n%40googlegroups.com
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d8f39d12-2c9a-41d1-8a4b-d18763a33202n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> --
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> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfgvUg9TvC1mzhcQMKq%3Dk-caNOQaQpph7khyFt9gwFNjMjw%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Are Paul brakes worth the money?

2023-01-09 Thread Jay Riley
PS: I'll always keep hydro brakes on the dual-suspension mtn bike.  They're
cool!  The braking assignment is short, severe braking loads, as opposed to
braking loads on a road or touring bike.

Jay

Jay Riley, mobile 603-498-5199


On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 8:44 PM Jay Riley  wrote:

> "the extra complication (bleeding) over the cable Pauls" has sent me back
> to cables and calipers on 2 of my bikes.  Especially if I'm in hilly and
> mountainous terrain, especially especially when touring with moderate loads
> (35lbs) in that terrain, disc-brake pads wear out way faster than ol'
> fashioned brake pads.  Hydraulic discs are super easy to squeeze and
> modulate, and although my thumbs are already arthritic I can still stop
> just fine w'cable brakes.
>
> Jay
>
> Jay Riley, mobile 603-498-5199
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 8:24 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Thanks, good to know.
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 6:06 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>>> Klampers are great, the couple hydraulic systems I've tried (stock on
>>> new bikes, I don't remember the brands) were marginally greater on the road
>>> but not worth the extra complication (bleeding) over the cable Pauls. Your
>>> results may vary on steep, rocky descents I don't ride.
>>>
>>> Joe Bernard
>>>
>>> On Thursday, January 5, 2023 at 4:46:22 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>>> Philip: Can you (or can anyone else for that matter) say how the
>>>> Klampers perform compared to TRP Hy Rds or to full hydraulics? I was just
>>>> talking to my brother about the Hy Rds and wondering if the Kampers would
>>>> be as powerful and modulate as well without the hydraulic complication.
>>>>
>>>> The Klampers have single-side pad actuation, right?
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 3:36 PM Philip Williamson 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> ... I do have a set of NIB Klampers I considered building a bike
>>>>> around, but went with yet another canti-post bike (a Bruce Gordon, woot!).
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Philip
>>>>> Sonoma County, Calif (did it really just stop raining?)
>>>>>
>>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d8f39d12-2c9a-41d1-8a4b-d18763a33202n%40googlegroups.com
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d8f39d12-2c9a-41d1-8a4b-d18763a33202n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfgvUg9TvC1mzhcQMKq%3Dk-caNOQaQpph7khyFt9gwFNjMjw%40mail.gmail.com
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CALuTfgvUg9TvC1mzhcQMKq%3Dk-caNOQaQpph7khyFt9gwFNjMjw%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Getting my groove back on with the Platypus - dealing with near misses

2023-01-05 Thread Jay LePree
Hi all,
Thanks again for this great advice. I will start to take the lane. I also 
like the idea of pointing straight through the intersection.
Jay

On Monday, January 2, 2023 at 9:41:43 PM UTC-5 Pam Bikes wrote:

> I understand how you feel.  We all feel this way occasionally and most 
> places are car centric in that there is not bike specific infrastructure.  
> And gyms are located on heavily traveled roads as most businesses are.  I'm 
> a Cycling Savvy Instructor which helps riders understand the traffic system 
> so you can have a better experience.  I invite you to join me for my next 
> course Jan 27th.  The classroom session is on Zoom so you can attend from 
> anywhere.  Please let me know if you are interested and I can send you the 
> link.  By all means you should be able to ride your bike wherever you 
> want.  Cycling Savvy has helped me do just that.  I make all my trips by 
> bike except one per week (to keep the battery charged).  If I can, you can 
> too.  I'm in Charlotte, NC which is also car centric.  
> On Wednesday, December 28, 2022 at 2:58:14 PM UTC-5 Jay LePree wrote:
>
>> Hi all:
>> I live in car-centric, crowded, northeastern NJ.  I joined a gym two 
>> towns over and ride my bike to the gym, about 3.5 miles each way.  I take 
>> the least busiest streets possible, but unfortunately, I need to ride 
>> through a semi-busy, though traffic-lit intersection.
>>
>> In my last 12 trips to the gym, I have had two near misses which could 
>> have been hits if I did not ride like Kent Peterson had described.  "Treat 
>> cars like big animals with poor eyesight that can't see you.  In one case, 
>> at night, although I have a Schmidt Edelux II, a huge reflective ankle 
>> bracelet on my basket, wear a reflective vest and have reflective ankle 
>> bands, I had a car nearly make a left turn into me while I was crossing the 
>> intersection.  The car was going straight through, and without signalling, 
>> decided to turn left at the last minute.  I stopped in time to prevent "the 
>> left cross".  Not less than 5 days later, in clear, bright daylight, I had 
>> a car pass me on the right and then proceed to turn right in front of me.  
>> (I think this is called the right hook?).  Again, applying Kent's approach 
>> to riding, I was able to stop in time.
>>
>> I am thankful my skills were sufficent to prevent contact, but now I am 
>> skittish.  Given the legalized weed and the propensity for peope to drink 
>> around this time of year, I am finding excuses not to ride to the gym, even 
>> in daylight.  I think it is the back-to-back nature of these incidents that 
>> has me most unnerved.  
>>
>> How have all of you got your groove back on?  
>>
>> Kind regards,
>> Jay LePree
>> Demarest, NJ
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Getting my groove back on with the Platypus - dealing with near misses

2022-12-30 Thread Jay LePree
Hi all:

All good advice.  I am lacking in the "take the lane" approach.  Had I done 
that, the "right hook" in front of me would not have happened.  I am, 
admittedly timid, and have trouble with this approach, though I know it is 
legal.  in NJ, a cyclist should remain to the right as safety allows, and 
certainly at parking lot and road intersections, it makes good sense to 
take the lane.  I am always afraid of the errant driver that will ride up 
my back.  (I do use a mirror, so it will allow me to see them...and see 
them riding up my back :) ). 

In this case, traffic was fairly slow, so taking the lane would make 
perfect sense. 

One riding skill I use regularly when approaching a light at an 
intersection is that I remain to the right but take the spot of the car in 
front of me;  I don't ride up to the front car.  It saves me the trouble of 
having cars that I passed then need to pass me again. Additionally, it 
prevents the "right hook". 

I do use lights and reflectors.  I wear reflective ankle straps for the 
motion (the ones you recommended Patrick..silver and about 2 inches wide), 
and placed reflective stips on my crank arms for added motion.  I use two 
bright tail lights and have reflective tape on my rear rack. I have a 
Schmidt Edelux II headlight and affixe the another ankle band to my basket 
so I have a 5 inch x 2 inch band of reflection on the front.

Thanks again,

Happy New Year
The Platypus rides again to the gym.

Jay LePree


On Thursday, December 29, 2022 at 3:42:22 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Jay: I'm sorry to hear about your near misses. I've had my share and they 
> leave a "sour taste in your mouth" -- a kind of lingering depressed or dark 
> feeling that is -- in my case at least -- even stronger than the inevitable 
> lingering residual fear. 
>
> Were these occasions at night? I try to err on the egregious, excessive 
> side of night-time illumination and use copious reflective gear, front and 
> rear, as well as top-quality front and rear lights, always duplicate 
> systems; thus 2 rear red lights and a second battery headlight in addition 
> to the dyno light that I turn on at least at busy intersections. IME, cars 
> treat you with more respect at night if so illuminated than during the day.
>
> Funny, though: during 56 years and more of riding in traffic -- I started 
> shorlty after my 11th birthday in Indian urban traffic after my father 
> bought me my first "adult" bike, a 28" wheel, rod-braked roadster -- I 
> learned that riding somewhat "aggressively" incurred fewer near misses than 
> riding timidly. 
>
> Examples: in the bike lane adjacent to busy auto lanes, ride mid-lane and 
> not too the right; riding close to the curb sees more drivers committing 
> that cardinal sin of skimming the right edge of their traffic lane. Ride 
> mid-lane or even flirt with the left edge of the bike lane and more cars 
> swing left when they pass.
>
> Stopping at stop signs or traffic lights: pull out to middle of right lane 
> -- even if there is a bike lane -- before stopping or, on greens, when 
> going straight; this noticeably reduces near right hooks from cars behind 
> me. 
>
> When going straight through an intersection, for oncoming cars going 
> straight through the intersection or slowing to turn left: even more 
> aggressively, pull out to the middle of your lane or even move to the left 
> of your lane, look the driver in the eye -- even "glare" at the driver 
> (that's purely physiological, not psychological) -- and stand as if to 
> speed up. It sounds foolish, but after starting to do this I've had fewer 
> near left hooks.
>
> I emphasize again that I learned to do all of that *out of growing 
> caution* and after multiple near misses.
>
> And of course, ride with complete 360* attention to what is around you; 
> rather as you learn to be more cautious (or at least, I do) when riding a 
> fixed gear around corners than when riding a freewheel; a sort of permanent 
> caution.
>
> I have to say that the potentially most serious near miss, for me, was my 
> own fault: Riding in the bike lane along a 4-lane, I failed to be 
> sufficiently cautious when making a left turn across 2 auto traffic lanes 
> and turned before the left-turn cutout to find myself stopped in the 
> righthand side of the left traffic lane with cars barreling down on me from 
> behind at 50 mph. I was *damned* lucky not to be hit! I quickly pulled my 
> bike onto the median as passing drivers very rightly cussed me out.
>
> I always start my rides with a brief prayer; for non-believers, at least 
> recognize and commit yourself to the undeniable source of universal 
> existential equilibrium, according to the fundamental Buddhist (and 
> perf

[RBW] Getting my groove back on with the Platypus - dealing with near misses

2022-12-28 Thread Jay LePree
Hi all:
I live in car-centric, crowded, northeastern NJ.  I joined a gym two towns 
over and ride my bike to the gym, about 3.5 miles each way.  I take the 
least busiest streets possible, but unfortunately, I need to ride through a 
semi-busy, though traffic-lit intersection.

In my last 12 trips to the gym, I have had two near misses which could have 
been hits if I did not ride like Kent Peterson had described.  "Treat cars 
like big animals with poor eyesight that can't see you.  In one case, at 
night, although I have a Schmidt Edelux II, a huge reflective ankle 
bracelet on my basket, wear a reflective vest and have reflective ankle 
bands, I had a car nearly make a left turn into me while I was crossing the 
intersection.  The car was going straight through, and without signalling, 
decided to turn left at the last minute.  I stopped in time to prevent "the 
left cross".  Not less than 5 days later, in clear, bright daylight, I had 
a car pass me on the right and then proceed to turn right in front of me.  
(I think this is called the right hook?).  Again, applying Kent's approach 
to riding, I was able to stop in time.

I am thankful my skills were sufficent to prevent contact, but now I am 
skittish.  Given the legalized weed and the propensity for peope to drink 
around this time of year, I am finding excuses not to ride to the gym, even 
in daylight.  I think it is the back-to-back nature of these incidents that 
has me most unnerved.  

How have all of you got your groove back on?  

Kind regards,
Jay LePree
Demarest, NJ

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Re: [RBW] Re: NorCal Cycling

2022-12-16 Thread Jay Lonner
+1 on the joys of winter cycling. I lived in Madison for 4 years, and commuted by bike year-round. It helped a lot that the city was good about snow and ice removal, although all the salt pretty much trashed the components on my X0-1 after my first winter there. I ended up turning a Goodwill frame into a dedicated singlespeed commuter, and with Nokian studded tires never had any real issues. Compare that to the laissez faire attitude toward dealing with snow and ice back in the PNW – a few weeks ago I hit a patch of black ice and went right down. My first spill in many years — dinged up my handlebars a bit, but was lucky enough to avoid injury. I’ll confess that it’s made me a bit gunshy about riding here in freezing temperatures. Having said that, I still prefer cycling in the cold and wet to riding in hot and sticky weather (although Madison had a fair amount of that as well).Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Dec 16, 2022, at 11:38 AM, Wesley  wrote:Winter cycling in colder climates is a fresh and wonderful form of joy. We lived in Madison, Wisconsin for seven years and commuting by riding straight across Lake Mendota was incredibly fun. Plus, I often had the paths to myself and got a lot of entertainment from taking on big snow berms. Ice and slush were a lot less fun, though. To each their own - I'll certainly agree that NorCal can be a lovely place to ride. The things that surprised me, though, are how incredibly narrow the roads are, and how most trails prohibit cycling.-WOn Friday, December 16, 2022 at 9:21:01 AM UTC-8 Garth wrote:The best winter cycling for me is no winter at all. No compromises or adaptations.Summer, Summer, and Summer and Summer. I Love Summer HOT, HUMID Green and Balmy SUMMMER ! Where there are few to none "cyclists" around. In other words, where cycling isn't popular and there is no such thing as "popular culture" to be found. Where is such a place ?  Right where One could never lose or find The Heart. Home, Heaven, is The Heart. and where's isn't The Heart  but nowhere ?  



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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil and Hunqapillar origins: The definitive thread

2022-12-14 Thread Jay Lonner
Are you using cantis or linear pull brakes with the 65 SKS fenders? When my Big Bens wear out I’m thinking of switching to Antelope Hills, and am hoping they’ll work with Motolites and fenders. Jay LonnerBellingham, WA Sent from my Atari 400On Dec 14, 2022, at 5:35 PM, J J  wrote:James, I can’t enumerate the all the differences, but I’m running René Herse 29" x 2.2" (700C x 55) Antelope Hill tires on my green Waterford Hunq 58, built in 2012, and there’s clearance to spare. Even with the 65 SKS fenders. I know early literature on Hunqs said that 55 was the maximum width. Later literature said the max was 2.3/58. On Wednesday, December 14, 2022 at 7:37:40 PM UTC-5 mcgr...@gmail.com wrote:What are the differences between Hunqapillar generations?  I have a July 2010 Waterford 62cm.  Right now it's got 2.1" Schwalbe Thunder Burts.  I think getting 2.2" tires on the back would be dicey.  Did the green generation of the frame have bigger clearance?  Longer wheelbase?JamesOn Wednesday, December 14, 2022 at 7:26:45 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:One more note that I didn't think of until I hit submit - the batch differences that exist on Bombadils (and maybe Hunqapillars too) are more significant than the difference between a Bombadil and a Hunq if you remove the location of manufacture from the equation. On Wednesday, 14 December 2022 at 16:24:22 UTC-8 Jason Fuller wrote:Just catching this now, hey thanks for the shoutout Eric! And it means a lot that you said that about the forest photo! That was a special day, first ride on the rebuild after paint.I don't have nearly the historical knowledge that many here do, and a lot has already been said. But here are my summarized thoughts between the two anyway, beyond the obvious difference of location of manufacture. The Hunqapillar seems to me like a "v2" Bombadil - they increased tire clearance over the Bombadil from 2.1 to 2.4" on most sizes, they made little geometry tweaks but just a smidge here and there, and notably they made the frame more cost-effective by not only changing suppliers but by simplifying the design a bit. To me they are still both "ATB" Rivendells, made to tackle trails loaded or not, and also be comfortable to ride on pavement as long as you're not in too much of a rush. When it comes to which is more coveted, it really comes down to whether the little superfluous (but beautiful) details on the Bombadil are important to you, and/or which paint job and geometry specifics suit you better. I think of them like the Appaloosa and Atlantis - basically two flavors of the same bike.    On Sunday, 11 December 2022 at 07:16:08 UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:It seems the Bombadil and Hunqapillar frames are beloved. They're stout, beautiful, and sometimes have intricate additional tubes and lugs. While I've done a lot of reading about Rivendell I was a bit unclear on the origins and intended uses of these frames. I wanted to start a thread where we could share and dump info about these bikes along with pictures of builds. Joe and Jim were helpful in laying out a bit of background in another thread, there's some great info there. The original Hunqapillar catalog is up here: http://notfine.com/rivendell/Brochures/Rivendell%20Frames%20Hunqapillar.pdfThe first mention I can find of the Bombadil is in RR 41, sometime in 2009. Excerpted pages attached. As a few members might recall I am very into raw frames with brass spilling out of the lugs! I know that many Bombadil owners have had their frames repainted like Jason Fuller, whose absolute stunner shows up here from time to time. By the way, the picture below is one of my very favorite Rivendell images. There's also the butter-banana Bombadil that recently sold on eBay. I believe that one was purchased by John Watson of the Radavist (and he's got a Hunq) so we might see some nice pics of that bike sometime soon. And speaking of, here's John's Hunqapillar, more images and write-up here. Are both of these frame names borrowing from Tolkien? I understand RBW had to stop using Tolkien names. 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Nivex on a Rivendell?

2022-12-13 Thread Jay Lonner
I’m sympathetic to the cyclotouriste-inspired aesthetic, but agree that it seems like a very niche setup that is prone to instant obsolescence if RH stops making spare parts. If I were in the market for a new bike requiring custom fittings for a novel shifting system I’d just go for a Rohloff, recognizing that given Grant’s stance on IGHs it wouldn’t be a Rivendell.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Dec 13, 2022, at 10:49 AM, Brian Forsee  wrote:This thing looks cool but as a whole i think it's exceptionally silly. It may be better protected than a standard der but its still prone to being broken or bent. Then what? Will RH be making this thing 10 or 15 years down the line? Same goes for the shifter. I expect some people with a huge investment in this thing and their frame will find themselves SOL in the future. I also think derailleurs work plenty well and don't need that much improving. If you want the 'experience' RH is referring to, just friction shift.The best thing about this is it makes the Riv derailleur project look very reasonable all of a sudden.On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 11:29:49 AM UTC-6 Berkeleyan wrote:To borrow a trite phrase, The Nivex shows that RH Cycles have jumped the shark. The cost is well beyond any common rider's reach, requires retrofitment brazing, paint, and only works with a custom shifter that mounts to a downtube. Kudos to Grant and RBW for sticking it out to bring a new RD in under $200 that mounts to standard dropouts.- Andrew, BerkeleyOn Monday, December 12, 2022 at 7:57:26 AM UTC-8 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA wrote:The Nivex is on the market now, and I really like the look of it. Even at $729.00 it feels like money well spent if you want something a little different and appreciate all that goes into making something like this. KUDOs to Jan for sticking with it. Nivex RearFor a custom Rivendell, it might make for a very sweet build. If my ship comes in I'd be tempted to spring for one, but I'll hold out until I see the new Riv rear derailer. Marty



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[RBW] Re: San Francisco/Bay Area Riv Riders

2022-12-12 Thread Jay P
I'd also appreciate the invitation for Bay Area rides and to meet some of 
yous

Jay P

Marin

On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 9:16:48 PM UTC-8 Luke Hendrickson wrote:

> Hey all! I know that it’s been a bit wet & cold, but I’d love to see if 
> anyone would want to have a little ride in the coming week(s). Perhaps even 
> a New Year’s day ride to celebrate in the new year in style?
>
> I’m in the City proper and was thinking about some mixed terrain around 
> town while keeping it mostly road-ish so that no one’s limited by the ride 
> route. Pastries + hot drinks + more snacks?
>
> I’d love to hear from anyone interested or even connect with other 
> like-minded people for more than just a one-off ride. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Saddle height and BPH

2022-12-12 Thread Jay Lonner
Please note the typo in the subject heading - I am referring to PBH (pubic bone height) and not BPH (benign prostatic hypertrophy) which is another, separate factor of potential interest to bike riding men of a certain age…Sent from my Atari 400On Dec 12, 2022, at 9:49 AM, Jay Lonner  wrote:I just took delivery of a new (non-Riv) bike and am dialing in the fit. I’m a little worried that the frame is too big for me, since I only have maybe 2” standover, which seems tight for a gravel bike.So I went out and measured the saddle height on my Hunq (which is a size 62). It came in at about 75cm. This gives me a solid fistful of seatpost. Then I remeasured my PBH, which is 93-94 cm depending on hard I pull. For reference, here’s the relevant page from HQ:https://www.rivbike.com/pages/pubic-bone-height-how-to-measure-your-pbhThis suggests that based on my  PBH my saddle height should be closer to 83 cm – an 8cm discrepancy. Before riding in this morning I raised my saddle height to 79 cm, basically splitting the difference. It felt weird, which of course it would after so many years at 75cm. But I made it in and my feet were in full contact with the pedals without any tippytoe maneuvers. So I guess I’ve been doing it wrong this whole time? Kind of embarrassing. Even so, according to the Riv method my saddle height is still ~4cm lower than my PBH would suggest. So I guess I’m wondering about alternative ways of determining saddle height somewhat objectively, and/or whether I should now be looking at other variables such as a fore-aft saddle positioning, saddle angle, and even saddle type (currently a B68, slammed back as far as it can go on a S83, with the nose pitched up ~10 degrees or so). Other relevant factors might be crank arm length (175mm), pedal height (Pedaling Innovations platform pedals), and shoes (Chuck Taylors, typically). Looking for the optimum balance of comfort, efficiency, and protecting my perineum.Jay LonnerBellingham, WA



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[RBW] Saddle height and BPH

2022-12-12 Thread Jay Lonner
I just took delivery of a new (non-Riv) bike and am dialing in the fit. I’m 
a little worried that the frame is too big for me, since I only have maybe 
2” standover, which seems tight for a gravel bike.

So I went out and measured the saddle height on my Hunq (which is a size 
62). It came in at about 75cm. This gives me a solid fistful of seatpost. 
Then I remeasured my PBH, which is 93-94 cm depending on hard I pull. For 
reference, here’s the relevant page from HQ:

https://www.rivbike.com/pages/pubic-bone-height-how-to-measure-your-pbh

This suggests that based on my  PBH my saddle height should be closer to 83 
cm – an 8cm discrepancy. Before riding in this morning I raised my saddle 
height to 79 cm, basically splitting the difference. It felt weird, which 
of course it would after so many years at 75cm. But I made it in and my 
feet were in full contact with the pedals without any tippytoe maneuvers. 
So I guess I’ve been doing it wrong this whole time? Kind of embarrassing. 
Even so, according to the Riv method my saddle height is still ~4cm lower 
than my PBH would suggest. 

So I guess I’m wondering about alternative ways of determining saddle 
height somewhat objectively, and/or whether I should now be looking at 
other variables such as a fore-aft saddle positioning, saddle angle, and 
even saddle type (currently a B68, slammed back as far as it can go on a 
S83, with the nose pitched up ~10 degrees or so). Other relevant factors 
might be crank arm length (175mm), pedal height (Pedaling Innovations 
platform pedals), and shoes (Chuck Taylors, typically). Looking for the 
optimum balance of comfort, efficiency, and protecting my perineum.

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA




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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil and Hunqapillar origins: The definitive thread

2022-12-11 Thread Jay Lonner
This is the story that I’ve heard. And while I do love the name and woolly mammoth iconography, it does feel like a missed opportunity when Oliphaunt was right there. (But maybe they had already gotten a cease-and-desist from the Tolkien estate at that point?)In any case, it’s great seeing the Hunqapillar get some attention — I sure love mine. And I also appreciate the link to John Watson’s build on the Radavist. He mentions wanting to track down an 8-speed specific White Industries freehub. So here’s where I confess to some gaps in my knowledge — are current generation rear hubs incompatible with 8-speed cassettes? I had assumed that the freehub dimensions were constant, and that the cassettes and chains just got narrower with more gears. But evidently that’s not the case, presumably leading to a rear wheel with more dish? I like my 3x8 setup quite well for the Hunq, and am wondering whether I need to be on the lookout for spares if there’s no way to retrofit contemporary components.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Dec 11, 2022, at 11:52 AM, J J  wrote:Re: the mailbox — I believe Grant was on a tour and saw the name “Hunkapiller” on a mailbox. Forgot where. He changed the spelling for the bike.On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 2:17:05 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:Ricky — The mailbox thing is new to me, interested to learn more if others have insight. Laing — That is a beauty of a Bombadil and I really appreciate you have the screenshot from when you bought it. That's the kind of receipt I like. Please keep us updated on how it handles with the very wide drops and other changes. Congrats on your traverse of FL on that bike! Brian — Thanks for the info! Definitely appropriate for the thread, I'd say. I'm surprised Sackville is a reference to LOTR, never would have guessed it. I think I'd heard of the rest, but only through reading about Riv over the years. And I was aware of Rivendell Mountain Works as a point of inspiration as well. Thanks, Eliot! I've got two videos in the hopper. Apologies for the erratic upload schedule. I enjoy documenting my projects but I don't want to be a full-time YouTube person. On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 12:39:36 PM UTC-5 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:Eric when are we going to see another YouTube video ? I really admire your style and have even learned a few tricks from your excellent build videos. Sorry for the tangent.On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 8:42:59 AM UTC-8 brok...@gmail.com wrote:Eric, I hope this doesn't derail your thread too much, but I though I might try to address your Tolkien question. As I'm sure many of us here are, I've long been a big Tolkien nerd, but I wouldn't consider myself an expert... I'd say I'm pretty well-versed, though!I know Grant has always maintained that he named Rivendell BW out of his appreciation for the old Rivendell Mountain Works catalogs (no doubt a main inspiration for the Riv Readers and model catalogs / brochures). But then, he also has taken quite a few liberties with the Tolkien property names and references. Here's a short list of all the ones I can think of, but there may be others:Rivendell: the magical refuge of the Elves in Middle Earth, where the Fellowship of the Ring is formedBaggins: the surname of our Hobbit heroes, Bilbo and FrodoSackville: a an affluent branch of the Baggins family in the Shire, the Sackville-BagginsesBombadil: as in Tom Bombadil, a jovial character who helps the Hobbits out of a tight spot along their journey. He may be the oldest being in Middle Earth. Infamously NOT mentioned in the film adaptations, to the dismay of many fans.Legolas: a Woodland Elf who was a member of the Fellowship of the RingQuickbeam: a young Ent who basically babysat and distracted Hobbits Merry and Pippin during the Ent MootCan anyone think of any obvious ones I'm missing here?On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 10:50:45 AM UTC-5 E. Ricky Creek wrote:The Hunqapillar is named after a mailbox in Indiana, but the spelling is different. Also, it might not be Indiana.On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 9:31:34 AM UTC-6 Luke Hendrickson wrote:Thank you for starting this thread, Eric. Stoked to learn more about these two models. On Sunday, December 11, 2022 at 7:16:08 AM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:It seems the Bombadil and Hunqapillar frames are beloved. They're stout, beautiful, and sometimes have intricate additional tubes and lugs. While I've done a lot of reading about Rivendell I was a bit unclear on the origins and intended uses of these frames. I wanted to start a thread where we could share and dump info about these bikes along with pictures of builds. Joe and Jim were helpful in laying out a bit of background in another thread, there's some great info there. The original Hunqapillar catalog is up here: http://notfine.com/rivendell/Brochures/Rivendell%20Frames%20Hunqapillar.pdfThe first mention I can find of the Bombadil is in RR 41, sometime in 2009. Excerpted pages attached. As a few members might recall I 

Re: [RBW] Knee Replacement

2022-11-19 Thread Jay Lonner
Bilateral knee replacements are not uncommon, if patients are good candidates. “Good candidate” is a catchall term for lots of intangibles, such as patient motivation and expectations, medical comorbidities, at-home support systems, etc. I would imagine that most Rivendell enthusiasts have the health, motivation, and means to tolerate a bilateral procedure.For postop pain relief the Cadillac option is something called an adductor canal catheter, which is basically an infusion of local anesthetic (chemically similar to Novacaine, such as you’d receive for a dental procedure) that lasts for up to three days. This targets sensory branches of the femoral nerve, which is responsible for sensation of the anterior thigh and knee. That’s where the incision is, so that’s where the bulk of the pain is. There is also some pain in the back of the knee mediated by the sciatic nerve, which is not affected by an adductor canal catheter, so breakthrough pain can still be an issue. If I personally needed both knees replaced I would have them done at the same time. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 19, 2022, at 3:23 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!  wrote:Rusty, no, I’ve never seen both at once. According to the internet it *can* be done, but you need to have some specific things going your way to get your surgeon to say yes. On Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 6:01:48 PM UTC-5 Rusty Click wrote:I am bone on bone in both knees after five arthroscopic procedures.   I think I will try another round of "knee lube" injections to get me thru guiding a few trips this spring, then riding RAGBRAI in July.  After that, I'm consulting with the doc about doing both knees at the same time.  Leah, do any patients get both done at once?I'll be waiting to hear/read how recovery goes Richard.  Good Luck,RustyPgh, PAOn Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 5:39:49 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:Come on over! I’ll get you squared away!Sent from my iPhoneOn Nov 19, 2022, at 2:06 PM, David Person <cycli...@gmail.com> wrote:Can't think of a better way to drift off prior to surgery than sharing Riv stories with my nurse.On Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 10:07:13 AM UTC-8 Ken Mattina wrote:As someone with osteoarthritis in both knees, I feel your pain.No knee replacements yet. So far, a change in diet and rehab has delayed it.Good luck. I hope you feel better soon.On Sat, Nov 19, 2022 at 6:04 AM Richard Borneman <rsb...@msn.com> wrote:Anyone here had a knee replaced? How long till you could ride again?My right knee is killing me. I've put it off as long as I could. It's almost time.Richard



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-- Where did the spring go?Where did my hormones go?Where did my energy go?Where did my go go?Where did the pleasure go?Where did my hair go?-- Ray Davies




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[RBW] Re: What epoch of Rivster are you?

2022-11-17 Thread Jay Connolly
Put a foot into the Golden Age yesterday when I found a 

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 9:10:36 PM UTC-8 Berkeleyan wrote:

> I'm in for the long haul. I bought Moustache Bars from RBW for my REI XR 
> way back in the early 1990's, so that must have been when Grant first put 
> up a sign.
>
> When I was doored in 1997, I used the insurance settlement toward a 
> custom-sized 65cm LongLow, which I still have, and love. Phil hubs, 
> six-speed Sachs Freewheel, it just rides and rides and rides.
>
> Later, I found a 66cm QuickBeam on Craigs, and it became my "second" bike, 
> fitted with a Dos Enos flip-flop rear hub and Bullmoose bars. It has been 
> to an Entmoot (China Camp) and just about everywhere in the East Bay.
>
> Most recently, I had my friend Mark Guglielmana build up a custom frame 
> modeled between my LongLow and a Hunqapillar (ergo, Diagatube) and fitted 
> for a Rohloff hub. Totally Riv-inspired, and a delight to take on loaded 
> tours. It does sport a re-raked RBW fork, but with bosses re-brazed for 
> MAFAC centerpulls.
>
> And I'm only 61, so who knows what the next 10-20 years will hold!
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>
> On Wednesday, September 26, 2018 at 4:55:34 PM UTC-7 Philip Williamson 
> wrote:
>
>> Recent discussions make me wonder, what epoch of Rivendell bikes or 
>> aesthetic most appeals to list members? 
>>
>> Which era do you identify with the most, or like the best? 
>> Is it the era you first encountered Riv in, or did you look back through 
>> the back catalog and say, "That's the one for me?" Or did you arrive early, 
>> travel into the future with Rivendell and love best what's happening now? 
>>
>>- Are you a "*Proto-Riv*" aficionado of Longlows, Allrounders, and 
>>Herons? 
>>- A "*Golden Ager*?" Are Herons, Rambouillets, and Salukis your 
>>favorites? 
>>- Or are you a "*2TTer,*" a Bombadil, Hunq, and Sam Hillborner?
>>- A "*Clemster*" and a Rosco? 
>>- Have you become a "*New Atlantean*?" A Swoop-a-tuber, Hill-biker, 
>>and a Gus Bootster? 
>>
>> Are these fixed preferences, or have you been most into a different era 
>> before? Do you have shadings of more than one?  I first encountered Riv in 
>> the Proto era, looking at the All Rounder. Overall I'm a Golden Ager, but 
>> the New Atlantean age is looking pretty attractive. 
>>
>> Philip 
>> Santa Rosa, CA 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: A Few Thoughts About FS posts

2022-11-15 Thread Jay Lonner
To my mind Riv is both a brand and a philosophy. I think it’s great that Grant’s ideas are getting traction with other manufacturers — a rising tide lifts all boats and all that. I personally have no problem with for sale posts that include Riv-inspired brands or builds.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 15, 2022, at 8:03 PM, Joe Mullins  wrote:I’m glad you brought these things up. I’ve had a thought on my mind for a bit that might be appropriate to discuss here. (If not I apologize and please delete this Jim. Also apologies if this has been discussed and I missed it or if it’s in the moderator guidelines and I forgot about it.)My instinct tells me that only Rivendell bikes or frames should be sold here. If I saw a Specialized bike or frame (nothing against Specialized they’re just the first mega company that came to mind) for sale here, I’d find it inappropriate. I saw a non-Riv (and to my knowledge not at all Riv-related) bike posted for sale here recently and I thought it was inappropriate. But I think it’s fine posting B-stone here since this group is essentially a spin off of the original BOB group and because of you know…Grant.But many here are into bikes from “friends” of Rivendell or Riv-related companies such as Crust or B-stone. Crust sells Rivendell bikes alongside their own. I don’t know of any other bike manufacturers who do that. Many of us put Crust handlebars or Ronnie Romance bags on our bikes. We like their stuff because they make stuff that is mostly in alignment with the stuff Rivendell makes which is why we love Rivendell. The reason I bring this up is because I have a Crust that’s no longer made and may be considered rare that I’ve been considering selling. My loyalty is to this group first and foremost and I’d rather someone here have first dibs on a bike they might want rather than posting it on the 650b group (where some here might see it), or Craigslist or last and definitely least, eBay. I’m a member of the 650b group but I never go on there and can’t remember if I’ve ever participated in any discussions there. Should we make a list of non-Riv bikes that we feel appropriate to post here, if any? If B-Stone counts, what is the criteria that will make other companies count? Should we start a thread of Riv-adjacent bikes for sale and keep all of it consolidated to a single thread much like the Craigslist part 1, 2 and 3 threads?Thoughts? Joe in Los Angeles PS-I hinted about the said FS bike in another post here that brought up Crust bikes. I felt that was not inappropriate ;-)On Nov 15, 2022, at 6:57 PM, Dave C  wrote:Thank you for the feedback and admin work.On Friday, October 28, 2022 at 8:30:34 AM UTC-7 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:Hey there - Just slipping on my admin cap because I'm noticing a trend:There has been an increase in "no-price" For Sale posts which have ended up in the queue. While I don't feel they are made in anything other than good faith, it potentially changes the nature of this group to an auction house. There are other websites which do that.I've also noticed a number of Sale listing attempts (again, caught in the review queue as they are from newer members (or those who never posted before) for pretty general gear. That's much more of a grey area, as we all end up with extra bike stuff. But there have been a number of "swap meet" style posts that get pretty broad, or are even introduced with "I've cross-posted this into..." For the second condition, I'll admit more leeway for those who share images and ride reports and the things that make this a valuable place. For the first issue, moving forward if something is listed for sale without a clear asking price and lands in the queue, I'm going to not pass it through. And might ask non-moderated posters to specify a price if a listing is not clear. For reference - in this last batch of ~20 posts which landed in moderation, there were 6 which had no-price-gimmee-an-offer text. Thanks!Jim / list admin



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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB/ISO Paul Thumbie adapter for Silver shifters

2022-11-14 Thread Jay Lonner
I have a few sets of these in use (so, not for sale). They work well, but haven’t been available for several years now. I was on the hunt for another set some time ago and struck out. I even called Paul himself to see if he still had the tooling to accommodate a special order, and he very politely passed. The Silver 2 shifters from Riv are probably your best bet, although IRD also sells power ratchet thumb shifters.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 14, 2022, at 12:24 PM, Brian Forsee  wrote:O. Interesting. I was unaware of this. I recently ordered a Paul shimano thumb mount assuming I could put a silver on it only to find out i cannot. If Carlos finds their fill and someone's got another I would be interested.BrianOn Monday, November 14, 2022 at 1:22:43 PM UTC-6 C Lin wrote:Apparently Paul made these for a while to mount silvers on thumbies for shimano bar cons.-Carlos in San Diego 



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[RBW] Re: Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

2022-11-12 Thread Jay Connolly
When I build up a new bike, I’m precious all the way. I often use a 
transparent protective tape anywhere a cable might rub or where experience 
has taught me that I will pick up a ding. And then I’m paranoid for a 
while. Inevitably, I relax, allow the bikes to wear the signs of use, and 
abandon the paranoia. Which is a more manageable way to live.

Jay
Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

On Saturday, November 5, 2022 at 3:15:18 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> Did you read Grant’s Blahg? He covers a lot of ground, but most notable to 
> me was the Please Don’t Be Precious About Your Rivendell section. In sum, 
> Grant is saying it saddens him to think of people riding beater bikes 
> instead of their Rivendells to do daily, monotonous tasks - because those 
> tasks make up a lot of real life. If one “saves” their Rivendell, it will 
> not realize its potential, sit mostly unused and then pass to one’s heirs 
> who will sell it in “near mint” condition on EBay, and how sad. What was 
> the bike for?
>
> I have found myself both guilty and innocent on the matter. My #1 favorite 
> bike is my raspberry Platypus. I ride it all the time, because I bought it 
> to ride it, but I also dread any harm coming to it, and I do guard it from 
> that. I got a second Platypus that I dedicated to shopping and traveling 
> with and promised not to be precious about it. But now and then I still am 
> tempted to backslide. When traveling to the Philly Bike Expo I dithered 
> about which bike to bring. I didn’t want my raspberry Platy damaged while 
> locked up at racks and I feared it being stolen. Roberta said, “I don’t 
> think you have a choice, Leah. That’s the bike people will expect you to 
> bring.” And she was right, and I did. 
>
> Then, there is Pam. Pam is at the other far end of the spectrum. Her bike 
> is a model of beausage. Innumerable paint chips and little spots of rust 
> cover her tiny Betty frame. Her Backabike bags are full of holes and the 
> elastic closures are worn out. She locks it up and never worries about it. 
> She did not obsessively stare out the restaurant window to see if it was 
> still locked to the rack while we were at dinner (like yours truly). But 
> she loves her bike, has real affection for it. She looked at me, eyes 
> shining, and said exactly that. Ana, PurpleRiv, is another good example to 
> us. She adores her bike, but has not spared it from hard work. Her bike has 
> hauled obscene loads and taken her everywhere. I remember there was that 
> one fateful camping trip for she 1. Posed it for a photo, only to have it 
> topple and slide down the face of a boulder next to it. I believe she said 
> she sat there and wept for 2 hours over her Joe Bell paint. And who among 
> us would not do the same? 2. Same trip, another photo op, and the bike fell 
> off a cliff. 
>
> So, who truly loves their Rivendell? The one who lavishes it with care and 
> protection? Or the one who pulls it out of the garage and into all of life 
> - the mundane and the adventurous? 
>
> On one end of the spectrum we have those who will only take a Rivendell 
> out for special occasions so as not to spoil it, and on the other…well, we 
> have Pam and Ana, who will give it a good thrashing. (Oh, don’t take it 
> personally, friends, I’m being funny about both types of owners.)
>
> I find myself wanting to be precious but fighting it and succeeding *most* 
> of the time. I’m lucky that the raspberry paint hides beausage and dirt, so 
> it looks pretty new. But a dent in the top tube or a large chip in the 
> paint would really hurt my feelings. Heaven help me. 
>
> Where are you on the spectrum? What words of wisdom might you have? What 
> strategies do you employ? Do you want to change? Or are you 
> unapologetically staying put on the matter? It might be fun to hear 
> perspectives.
> Leah
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What epoch of Rivster are you?

2022-11-12 Thread Jay Connolly
Definitely a 2TTer leaning into the Clemster age. Own an Appaloosa for 
touring and running around with various loads (and as my winter bike in a 
wet climate), a Sam for my version of speed (which is laughably slow, but 
really it’s just a reminder not to weigh down the bike with the extra 10 
lbs I carry on the Joe day-to-day). Had a 64 Clem which I stupidly sold to 
a friend and now wish I had back.

Jay
Vancouver Island, BC, Canada 

On Wednesday, September 26, 2018 at 4:55:34 PM UTC-7 Philip Williamson 
wrote:

> Recent discussions make me wonder, what epoch of Rivendell bikes or 
> aesthetic most appeals to list members? 
>
> Which era do you identify with the most, or like the best? 
> Is it the era you first encountered Riv in, or did you look back through 
> the back catalog and say, "That's the one for me?" Or did you arrive early, 
> travel into the future with Rivendell and love best what's happening now? 
>
>- Are you a "*Proto-Riv*" aficionado of Longlows, Allrounders, and 
>Herons? 
>- A "*Golden Ager*?" Are Herons, Rambouillets, and Salukis your 
>favorites? 
>- Or are you a "*2TTer,*" a Bombadil, Hunq, and Sam Hillborner?
>- A "*Clemster*" and a Rosco? 
>- Have you become a "*New Atlantean*?" A Swoop-a-tuber, Hill-biker, 
>and a Gus Bootster? 
>
> Are these fixed preferences, or have you been most into a different era 
> before? Do you have shadings of more than one?  I first encountered Riv in 
> the Proto era, looking at the All Rounder. Overall I'm a Golden Ager, but 
> the New Atlantean age is looking pretty attractive. 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, CA 
>

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Re: [RBW] Kickstand plates, what's up with that?

2022-11-06 Thread Jay Lonner
I agree Joe - a bike with a single-leg kickstand isn't super stable and
will only tolerate so much weight before it topples, which acts like a sort
of pressure release mechanism that keeps the mounting plate from getting
too stressed. A bike with a double-leg kickstand is very stable, allowing
you to really load it up, and the constant rocking horse motion with a lot
of weight can torque the plate pretty easily. I also agree with the thought
stated earlier that the kickstand plates on Hunqs of my generation are
probably underengineered and prone to fail in this way. Jobst Brandt has
come up recently, I'd have loved to hear his thoughts on the matter!

In any case I've soured on double-leg kickstands, and have lived without a
kickstand of any sort for years now and don't really feel the lack.

Jay Lonner
Bellingham, WA

On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:12 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> I thought I'd bring this over here instead of continuing to hammer Leah's
> 'Using Your Rivendell' thread.
>
> Do we have any reports of plates separating from the stays from a
> single-leg kickstand, or are they all double-leggers? My experience with
> both is this:
>
> I used a double-legger on a Clem and could really load that bike up, I'm
> familiar with that rocking sensation of all the weight torquing on the
> stand. On my custom I use a single leg (the stock one that came on Clem
> completes a few years ago) and it's not very strong. It supports the bike
> fine and I can put a small shopping load in the bags, but as soon as I
> start to overdo it I can feel the bike getting wobbly like the stand wants
> to give out on me. My guess in this scenario is the single-legger is
> warning me before the plate gets too stressed, whilst the double will let
> you load all day until the plate gives up.
>
> Whaddyathink?
>
> Joe Bernard
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

2022-11-05 Thread Jay Lonner
Kim,I guess I’d put myself in the “once burned, twice shy” camp — I personally wouldn’t install a kickstand again, unless maybe the mounting plate was super bomber. That’s something you’ll have to assess for yourself. I keep meaning to order a Flickstand but haven’t gotten around to it, which goes to show that in my riding there’s no shortage of things to lean my bike against. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 5, 2022, at 8:37 PM, Kim Hetzel  wrote:Hi Jay,Today, I just installed a double-legged kickstand on my Clem "L".  If I do not carry a heavy loads on the back end of my bike, like you did, I should be fine ?...regarding possible damage of separating the kickstand frame plate. Thank-you,Kim HetzelYelm, WA. On Saturday, November 5, 2022 at 6:39:40 PM UTC-7 Jay Lonner wrote:No damage that I could detect. The kickstand plate isn’t integral to the frame, it’s just tacked on with some not-very-strong welds. I’m fairly certain it could be removed with only superficial damage to the paint, but then I’d have nothing to attach a fender to. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 5, 2022, at 6:13 PM, Piaw Na <pi...@gmail.com> wrote:No damage to the frame? Or did you have to get it repaired?On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 6:08 PM Jay Lonner <jay.l...@gmail.com> wrote:I don’t have a picture, just imagine the weld giving way and the plate separating from the seat stays. I was using a double-legged kickstand at the time and carrying a fair amount of cargo (see attached), and evidently the seesawing action was enough to pry things loose. It bummed me out for maybe half a day, but it’s been fine ever since, now I just use the kickstand plate as a fender attachment point.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 5, 2022, at 5:54 PM, Piaw Na <pi...@gmail.com> wrote:What does a peeling mounting plate look like? Anyone have pictures? Not that I have kickstands on any of my bikes --- the one on the triplet got taken off ages ago... Just curious.On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 5:49 PM Richard Rose <rmro...@gmail.com> wrote:When I was talking to Will about getting a double legged kickstand he warned me about the “peeling” mounting plate on the Clems. But, he thought I would be ok they had beefed them up. So far so good.Sent from my iPhoneOn Nov 5, 2022, at 7:44 PM, Jay Lonner <jay.l...@gmail.com> wrote:My Hunq is a daily driver and has the dings and scratches to show for it. Probably the worst one is that the kickstand plate is pried partially loose — no big deal, I just took the kickstand off and used the mounting hardware to snug things back up. Worst case scenario for me is that someday I treat myself to a new paint job and maybe some frame modifications to go along with it. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 5, 2022, at 4:28 PM, George Schick <bhi...@gmail.com> wrote:I haven't read Grant's Blahg on this matter (the ancient OS on my computer is so out of date that I can't load certain websites), but what he has to say does not surprise me.  He's always been all about what he calls "beausage," a term he coined to mean "beauty through usage," or IOW don't sweat all of the nicks and scratches, "just ride" your bike and be happy.  The good news though is that there is a happy middle ground between the complete over-the-top utility use of a bike (like Pam's), ignoring any wear and tear versus a finicky protectiveness, hovering over the bike at all times and worrying about theft, damage, etc.  And in my way of thinking that means "just ride" it for all it's worth, but don't just throw it in the corner until the next ride, but take good care of it.  Another way of saying that might be, "... take good care of it and it will take good care of you."This is no different than what one might do having just bought a nice new automobile and drives it everywhere, but also maintains it, washes and waxes it regularly, and is careful where they park it.On Saturday, November 5, 2022 at 6:14:45 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:I love this topic! I had my custom designed to answer the question, "What if I had all the qualities I love about Rivendells in a frame made exactly for my size, weight and riding preferences?",  and at first I was super precious about it. Later I realized the whole point was to have a perfect bike I could ride every day for everything and that's what I'm doing.Of course I'm still absurdly touchy about scratching all that beautiful Joe Bell paint but I don't let it stop me, I lock it up at Walmart, I fill the bags with laundry and go to the laundromat. Because I want my bike to do all the things bikes do!Joe Bernard On Saturday, November 5, 2022 at 3:15:18 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:Did you read Grant’s Blahg? He covers a lot of ground, but most notable to me was the Please Don’t Be Precious About Your Rivendell section. In sum, Grant is saying it saddens him 

Re: [RBW] Re: Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

2022-11-05 Thread Jay Lonner
No damage that I could detect. The kickstand plate isn’t integral to the frame, it’s just tacked on with some not-very-strong welds. I’m fairly certain it could be removed with only superficial damage to the paint, but then I’d have nothing to attach a fender to. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 5, 2022, at 6:13 PM, Piaw Na  wrote:No damage to the frame? Or did you have to get it repaired?On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 6:08 PM Jay Lonner <jay.lon...@gmail.com> wrote:I don’t have a picture, just imagine the weld giving way and the plate separating from the seat stays. I was using a double-legged kickstand at the time and carrying a fair amount of cargo (see attached), and evidently the seesawing action was enough to pry things loose. It bummed me out for maybe half a day, but it’s been fine ever since, now I just use the kickstand plate as a fender attachment point.Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 5, 2022, at 5:54 PM, Piaw Na <p...@gmail.com> wrote:What does a peeling mounting plate look like? Anyone have pictures? Not that I have kickstands on any of my bikes --- the one on the triplet got taken off ages ago... Just curious.On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 5:49 PM Richard Rose <rmros...@gmail.com> wrote:When I was talking to Will about getting a double legged kickstand he warned me about the “peeling” mounting plate on the Clems. But, he thought I would be ok they had beefed them up. So far so good.Sent from my iPhoneOn Nov 5, 2022, at 7:44 PM, Jay Lonner <jay.lon...@gmail.com> wrote:My Hunq is a daily driver and has the dings and scratches to show for it. Probably the worst one is that the kickstand plate is pried partially loose — no big deal, I just took the kickstand off and used the mounting hardware to snug things back up. Worst case scenario for me is that someday I treat myself to a new paint job and maybe some frame modifications to go along with it. Jay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Nov 5, 2022, at 4:28 PM, George Schick <bhim...@gmail.com> wrote:I haven't read Grant's Blahg on this matter (the ancient OS on my computer is so out of date that I can't load certain websites), but what he has to say does not surprise me.  He's always been all about what he calls "beausage," a term he coined to mean "beauty through usage," or IOW don't sweat all of the nicks and scratches, "just ride" your bike and be happy.  The good news though is that there is a happy middle ground between the complete over-the-top utility use of a bike (like Pam's), ignoring any wear and tear versus a finicky protectiveness, hovering over the bike at all times and worrying about theft, damage, etc.  And in my way of thinking that means "just ride" it for all it's worth, but don't just throw it in the corner until the next ride, but take good care of it.  Another way of saying that might be, "... take good care of it and it will take good care of you."This is no different than what one might do having just bought a nice new automobile and drives it everywhere, but also maintains it, washes and waxes it regularly, and is careful where they park it.On Saturday, November 5, 2022 at 6:14:45 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:I love this topic! I had my custom designed to answer the question, "What if I had all the qualities I love about Rivendells in a frame made exactly for my size, weight and riding preferences?",  and at first I was super precious about it. Later I realized the whole point was to have a perfect bike I could ride every day for everything and that's what I'm doing.Of course I'm still absurdly touchy about scratching all that beautiful Joe Bell paint but I don't let it stop me, I lock it up at Walmart, I fill the bags with laundry and go to the laundromat. Because I want my bike to do all the things bikes do!Joe Bernard On Saturday, November 5, 2022 at 3:15:18 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:Did you read Grant’s Blahg? He covers a lot of ground, but most notable to me was the Please Don’t Be Precious About Your Rivendell section. In sum, Grant is saying it saddens him to think of people riding beater bikes instead of their Rivendells to do daily, monotonous tasks - because those tasks make up a lot of real life. If one “saves” their Rivendell, it will not realize its potential, sit mostly unused and then pass to one’s heirs who will sell it in “near mint” condition on EBay, and how sad. What was the bike for?I have found myself both guilty and innocent on the matter. My #1 favorite bike is my raspberry Platypus. I ride it all the time, because I bought it to ride it, but I also dread any harm coming to it, and I do guard it from that. I got a second Platypus that I dedicated to shopping and traveling with and promised not to be precious about it. But now and then I still am tempted to backslide. When traveling to the Philly Bike Expo I dithered about which bike to bring. I didn’t want

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