[RBW] FS 2016 57 Waterford AHH

[Tim Butterfield]

Hi, all.

I just posted my Homer on eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303242630753

Changing circumstances force the sale.  I'm not regularly receiving posts 
from the group, but wanted to let the group know what happened.  Back in 
January, my wife passed from heart failure.  I've healed since then, but 
have a new direction in my life that does not include bicycles, at least 
not for now.  Instead, I'm simplifying things and will be doing more 
travel, hopefully some international later this year.  I returned this week 
from a trip to New York that was a lot of fun.  I've already sold my 
Atlantis to a local via Craigslist.  With the higher value of the Homer, I 
chose the eBay route instead for a broader US audience.  I'll be shipping 
it via BikeFlights with packing by Montlake in Seattle.  That's the brief 
version.  You can follow up with a direct reply if you want to know more.

Thanks everyone for the education I have received here.

Cheers!

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Re: HubbuhHubbuh email from Riv & donation idea

[Tim Butterfield]

Alex,

Not sure what's possible, but here's a couple ideas:

Thinking a president is not always involved in inventory/asset management
for their charity...

If she were willing, Christine could accept ownership of the new HHH on
behalf of BTCC, but just assign it for use by a captain to be shipped
directly to them.  That would reduce her need for involvement while
maintaining control for possible future use if/when her circumstances
change.

Could she recommend another chapter/branch/club/captain that is in need of
the HHH?  There may be individuals who would want to be captains, but do
not have the tandem with which to do it.  A tricky bit there is BTCC has
the 501 (c) (3) status and another may not.

Tim

On Tue, Jan 22, 2019 at 1:05 PM Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles <
4824...@gmail.com> wrote:

> They didn'talthough I think they were keen on the blind cyclist tandem
> group idea from the get-go.
>
> Will's response was very California/laid back.
>
> Open to any and all ideas.
>

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Re: [RBW] Another Riv Financial Situation Thread

[Tim Butterfield]

The big box stores, restaurants, and many other businesses sell gift cards
all of the time.  There is even a rack of them at my grocery store.  When
RBW sends an email mentioning selling gift certificates, suddenly it's the
end of the world.  Maybe it's because they mentioned it in an email or
because it's an eCard instead of plastic.  Either way, the response of many
was a bit ridiculous.

Too bad they don't carry NFS.  I just had to order two bottles direct
instead.  According to other reports, that might do better in the PNW than
the more easily rinsed off T-9.  Guess I might need to find something
different to order instead.

Cheers.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Grant's BLAHG: Gus Boots update: headbadge, etc.

[Tim Butterfield]

Clayton,

If the drooping top tube isn't your preference and you're making a bikepack
bag for it any way, you could make the bag to fill the space _above_ the
drooping top tube.  That would give you the straight top line you're
looking for and more usable storage space.  Customize for your standover
height as needed.  Also, the zipper could be straight along the side/top
edge for easy access without anything falling out.  If you want wide open
access, you could have the zipper run from the head tube to the seat post
and turn down to the top tube.  If the zipper were flat along the top, it
should be a fairly easy bend to run down the rear of the pack.  Cover the
zipper with a canvas flap to keep the rain out.

Tim


On Thu, Nov 22, 2018 at 2:24 PM 'clayton bailey' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> If I buy, I will go with the fillet, since I can’t have my lugs and light,
> straight tubes like on my PERFECT Toyo Atlantis. (childish stomping on
> the ground, whiny pouty face). The fillet version takes me back to the
> eighties, and the high end, custom mountain bikes I couldn’t afford. I
> can’t afford a custom lugged bikepacker for wide tires now, but I can save
> up for the fillet Boots (gets up to put another ten in the piggy bank).
> Grant designs some of the best steel bikes in the world IMHO, so I will
> trust in that. I like the badge, the name, the graphics and I’m wrapping my
> mind around the dropped top tube. What I find funny, is that once I get the
> bike and ride it, all my drooping top tube dislike-silliness, will vanish,
> and I know it. It will be another perfect bike, because I expect it to be.
> I expect the details I have concerns about will be cleaned up and am
> looking forward to hearing about it’s further development.
>
> I was going to make new bikepacking packs for my Atlantis this winter, but
> I think I’ll wait and make them for the Boots. Making the frame bag will be
> fun (steering my brain to like the drooped top tube ), but am a little
> stumped on how to run the zipper without things falling out, or a wrinkled
> curved zipper that might hang up..樂  I’ll figure out something
> esthetically, to compliment the frame, hopefully. Canvas X-pac probably,
> depending on what color the Boots is. I am getting slightly excited.
>
> MY ‘Nature Bike’, perfectly executed? (I much prefer ‘Nature bike’ over
> Hillybike). The drooping top tube bothers me esthetically, but will
> really appreciate the first time I don’t rack my nuts! Another word like
> beausage needs to be made up for the beauty, and the ‘advantages’ of a
> droopy top tube, to make it more appealing (to me). Any suggestions?
> Mumblethinking..I was thinking maybe, ‘Notanutter’? Sexist. Never
> mind. Crotchless top tube? No, underwearNuttergutter? I am failing
> badly at thisSexist againbut crotchgutter is ugly and weird. We
> need to seriously work on this”Crochcanyon?”  Getting rid of the whole
> crotch thing would be nice, but I keep coming up empty.  Mongol
> saddlehmmm...
> Aha! I got it.”The MONGOLOTUBE”!  Now that I have a name for it,
> and an appreciation for Grants description of the riding style of the
> Mongols, I am good.  Any better suggestions?  Now I need a name for the
> frame bag I plan on designing, for the bike I don’t have, for more help
> getting my brain to love the Mongolotube. 藍  I am such a dorky bike
> nerd.and the naming thing is fun, so ”The Mongolo pack”?
>
> Happy Thanksgiving everyone!  Love your family.
>
> Clayton
> #dirtdancedesigns
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[Tim Butterfield]

Thanks, Howard.  It's about a three hour round trip for me, but I can drop
it off there if someone here wants to arrange for it to be shipped.

Tim

On Sat, Nov 10, 2018 at 9:51 AM Howard Ramsay  wrote:

> I asked for recommendations in the Bridgestone Group.  Here is the one
> recommended from a members personal experience.  Hope this helps  :)
> Montlake Bicycle Shop
> https://www.facebook.com/montlakebicycleshop/
> https://montlakebike.com/
>
>
> On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 10:12:50 AM UTC-5, Kellen Scott wrote:
>>
>> Does anybody in the Anacortes-Bellingham-Seattle area know of a bike shop
>> around there that Tim would be able to leave the bike with to have them
>> pack and ship it?
>>
>> Kellen Scott (Santa Cruz, CA)
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Seattle area bike packer?

[Tim Butterfield]

Thanks for explaining.

Tim

On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 6:56 AM Tim Gavin 
wrote:

> BikeFlights is just a re-seller of shipping services.
> They made an agreement with shippers because bikes may be over-size, but
> they are usually pretty light.  With BikeFlights, it's like you pay for the
> weight of the bike and not the over-size fees that you would pay if you
> went to Fed-Ex directly.
>
> Anyone can buy a shipping label through their website, it doesn't have to
> be a shop.
> If the shop that packs the bike has a Fed-Ex account, then they can
> arrange pickup as normal.
>
> Also, the package doesn't have to be a bike.  I always check BikeFlights
> whenever I'm shipping a package larger than a Priority Mail flat rate box.
>
> On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 12:31 AM Tim Butterfield 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks.  Does it make a difference whether or not the shop is listed on
>> BikeFlights?
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 8:24 PM Rivcyclist  wrote:
>>
>>> I highly recommend Aaron's Bicycles in White Center, these guys used to
>>> sell Rivendells and you'll love checking out their awesome shop in the
>>> process.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 12:27:20 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Just to clarify ... I am not asking for a guarantee of future
>>>> performance.  That's impossible to predict.  I'm just wondering about
>>>> good/bad experiences you may have already had.  I have received one
>>>> positive experience with Counter Balance, though with UPS shipping instead
>>>> of BikeFlights.  I'm not sure how that affects things.  Any other points of
>>>> reference?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, Oct 27, 2018 at 3:46 PM Tim Butterfield 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> In case my Atlantis needs to be shipped, I might need to find a bike
>>>>> shop that can be trusted to correctly and safely pack it for BikeFlights.
>>>>> I do not trust my local shop to do it, but am willing to take it anywhere
>>>>> between Bellingham and Seattle to find the most trustworthy shop to do it.
>>>>>
>>>>> For those who have already been through this process, what Seattle
>>>>> area shop would you most trust to be able to do it right?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>> Tim
>>>>>
>>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Seattle area bike packer?

[Tim Butterfield]

Thanks.  Does it make a difference whether or not the shop is listed on
BikeFlights?

Tim

On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 8:24 PM Rivcyclist  wrote:

> I highly recommend Aaron's Bicycles in White Center, these guys used to
> sell Rivendells and you'll love checking out their awesome shop in the
> process.
>
>
> On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 12:27:20 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> Just to clarify ... I am not asking for a guarantee of future
>> performance.  That's impossible to predict.  I'm just wondering about
>> good/bad experiences you may have already had.  I have received one
>> positive experience with Counter Balance, though with UPS shipping instead
>> of BikeFlights.  I'm not sure how that affects things.  Any other points of
>> reference?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 27, 2018 at 3:46 PM Tim Butterfield 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> In case my Atlantis needs to be shipped, I might need to find a bike
>>> shop that can be trusted to correctly and safely pack it for BikeFlights.
>>> I do not trust my local shop to do it, but am willing to take it anywhere
>>> between Bellingham and Seattle to find the most trustworthy shop to do it.
>>>
>>> For those who have already been through this process, what Seattle area
>>> shop would you most trust to be able to do it right?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>> --
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Re: [RBW] FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[Tim Butterfield]

I had heard BikeSpot was good as a shop (recommended by a local Riv rider I
met also).  I would trust them to work on my bikes, but I wasn’t sure how
they were as a packer.  I would not trust the Skagit Cycle here due to
another experience I had there.

Thanks

Tim

On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 9:52 PM  wrote:

> There are two bike shops in Anacortes that would be worth checking with
> about shipping.  Bikespot is a small shop, but the customer service is
> stellar.  Address:  201 Commercial Ave
> .
> Also there is Skagit Cycle Center at the other end of town, 1620 Commercial
> Ave.  It’s much bigger and has stores in Mt. Vernon and Oak Harbor as
> well.  Good luck!
>
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[RBW] Re: Seattle area bike packer?

[Tim Butterfield]

Just to clarify ... I am not asking for a guarantee of future performance.
That's impossible to predict.  I'm just wondering about good/bad
experiences you may have already had.  I have received one positive
experience with Counter Balance, though with UPS shipping instead of
BikeFlights.  I'm not sure how that affects things.  Any other points of
reference?

Thanks.

Tim

On Sat, Oct 27, 2018 at 3:46 PM Tim Butterfield 
wrote:

> In case my Atlantis needs to be shipped, I might need to find a bike shop
> that can be trusted to correctly and safely pack it for BikeFlights.  I do
> not trust my local shop to do it, but am willing to take it anywhere
> between Bellingham and Seattle to find the most trustworthy shop to do it.
>
> For those who have already been through this process, what Seattle area
> shop would you most trust to be able to do it right?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>

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[RBW] Seattle area bike packer?

[Tim Butterfield]

In case my Atlantis needs to be shipped, I might need to find a bike shop
that can be trusted to correctly and safely pack it for BikeFlights.  I do
not trust my local shop to do it, but am willing to take it anywhere
between Bellingham and Seattle to find the most trustworthy shop to do it.

For those who have already been through this process, what Seattle area
shop would you most trust to be able to do it right?

Thanks.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[Tim Butterfield]

I’m 5’ 10” also.

Tim

On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 7:19 PM dougP  wrote:

> Max:
>
> Have your friend do the PBH measurement & check it out on the fit chart.
> I'm 5'10" with a PBH of 85 & ride a 58 cm.
>
> dougP,
> (encouraging Atlantis riders since 2011)
>
> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 6:17:40 PM UTC-7, Max S wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, Tim. My friend - he’s about 5’10”, short legs long torso type
>> (I’m probably the opposite), so 32” SO might be cutting it close...
>>
>> - Max “doc, this is for a friend” in A2
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[Tim Butterfield]

Hi, Doug.

You may be correct on the mid length chainstay.  I only know it was their
current demo model until I purchased it earlier this year.  I would expect
that to have been current at the time.  It is definitely not the new long
chainstay MIT version.  There is a decent amount of space in front of the
rear tire as shown in the pictures.  That bit of length combined with the
Rat Trap Pass EL tires makes for a very cushy ride.  It is certainly a bit
more cushy than my Homer with the Barlow Pass EL tires.

Tim

On Wed, Oct 24, 2018 at 5:12 PM dougP  wrote:

> Tim:
>
> Is that the interim version with the slightly longer chainstays?
> Waterford made some for Rivendell with chainstays longer than the Toyo and
> shorter than the current LWB model.  IIRC, they were only a couple of
> centimeters longer.  I rode one of those & the improvement in ride quality
> was noticeable from my 58 cm Atlantis (45.5 cm).
>
> dougP
>
> On Wednesday, October 24, 2018 at 12:41:35 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> I didn't want to do this, but the Atlantis Waterford demo I purchased
>> earlier this year is up for sale.
>> https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6731696265.html
>>
>> I'm a an hour and a half to two hours north of Seattle in Anacortes.
>>
>> I would prefer to sell it local as I have never packed nor shipped a
>> bike.  But, if someone wants it shipped, that might still be possible.  I'm
>> not sure which LBS might be okay for doing this.  If you can find and make
>> arrangements with one of them, I can drop it off there.  I'm just not
>> comfortable being responsible for that myself.
>>
>> If you have any questions, please let me know.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
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[RBW] FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[Tim Butterfield]

I didn't want to do this, but the Atlantis Waterford demo I purchased
earlier this year is up for sale.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6731696265.html

I'm a an hour and a half to two hours north of Seattle in Anacortes.

I would prefer to sell it local as I have never packed nor shipped a bike.
But, if someone wants it shipped, that might still be possible.  I'm not
sure which LBS might be okay for doing this.  If you can find and make
arrangements with one of them, I can drop it off there.  I'm just not
comfortable being responsible for that myself.

If you have any questions, please let me know.

Thanks.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Heard my first "Hey, nice Riv!" today. Felt chuffed

[Tim Butterfield]

I got that once a year after I got my AHH.  I was heading out to do a small
loop and met a Steve coming back on his Riv (Rambouillet?).  I have not
seen anyone else on one.

Tim

On Mon, Oct 1, 2018 at 8:18 AM LeRoy  wrote:

> I've only had my Clem Smith Jr since late spring of this year and have put
> about 750 miles on it. Rivendells of any sort are thin on the ground in my
> Midwestern home. Most of the guys I ride with are only vaguely aware of the
> brand. They do recognize my bike as an interesting curiosity. It's
> something that's at variance with the generally mountain bike-oriented
> bikes they own. So I've been pedaling along and simply enjoying the ride.
> Thus it was with a bit of personal pleasure that I heard another rider call
> out, *"Hey, nice Riv!"* as he cycled past this morning. I felt pretty
> chuffed, in a private sort of way, that a stranger recognized the bike and
> called it out. Did I need the "validation?" Well, maybe. Whatever. I must
> say that it was nice to hear. When was your first such experience?
>
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Re: [RBW] Recomendations For Cycling-Specific Vehicle

[Tim Butterfield]

With some of the BMW GS models, you can have both a low suspension and a
low seat.  I can put the ball of both feet on the ground on a new 2018 GS
Adventure with the low seat.  The low suspension drops that another couple
of inches.  I could flat foot that where I could not with the regular R1100
GS with regular seat.  Here's an old thread over on ADVrider discussing it.
https://advrider.com/f/threads/gs-low-suspension-vs-reg-gs-w-low-seat.540313/

Tim

On Wed, Sep 26, 2018 at 3:04 PM Reed Kennedy  wrote:

> On Wed, Sep 26, 2018 at 12:55 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
>> Seconded about the BMW GS, I didn't know I could afford one now! Of
>> course I still can't reach the ground on one, but...
>>
>
> Try the seat in the low position! There are two, and it makes a big
> difference.
>
> I've owned over 30 motorcycles in the last two decades. Now I only own the
> GS. I adore it, and it does everything I need. 110,000 miles and counting.
>
>
> Cheers,
> Reed
>

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Re: [RBW] Recomendations For Cycling-Specific Vehicle

[Tim Butterfield]

Steve,

I agree with you.  I enjoy driving also.  In my case, the enclosed
transport is an Outback 3.6R Touring.  Depending on bike length and wheel
size, you might need to remove a front wheel to fit it in.  But, we can
only go by the primary purpose given, which was enclosed transport, which
to me is cargo.  No mention was made of needing to enjoy the drive.  There
are likely many other criteria we were not given that would affect which
vehicle might work better than others.  Bike size is a big one.  A smaller
sized 26" Atlantis will likely fit in more vehicles than a 700c newer
stretched frame bike.  For all I know, he could be wanting to fit a
recumbent trike inside.  As you allude to, the trips might make a
difference also.  It might be half an hour to a starting point or a cross
country multi-week exploration.  There are too many unstated variables that
might or might not matter in making the selection other than just cargo.
As that was the only criteria I had, that is what I used for my suggestion.

Tim



On Wed, Sep 26, 2018 at 12:29 PM Steve Palincsar  wrote:

>
>
> On 09/26/2018 03:17 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:
> > Paul,
> >
> > If the primary purpose is cargo, I would vote with Jeff/sameness for a
> > small work van as used by many businesses.  There are quite a few on
> > the market now and at fairly reasonable prices.
>
> Yes, but then you have to drive a cargo van, and what fun is that? In my
> case, my primary purpose is to get to the start of bike rides, but
> that's because 95% of my driving is literally that: to and from bike
> rides.  The extra 5% is shopping.  But as it happens, I enjoy driving
> and this is basically my only chance.  Forget about buying a sports car
> to drive for fun on weekends: my weekends are cycling, and I'm not going
> to give that up.  The perfect world is a sporty car that can carry
> bicycles.  I had that with my 2003 BMW 5-series wagon, and I have it now
> with my VW Golf Alltrack.  (If I lived in Europe, I'd have it in spaces
> with a Golf R wagon, but alas they don't sell that here.)  But I've
> never driven a van or a truck of any kind that was any fun at all.
>
> But obviously everyone's needs aren't the same.  The way to win is to
> really hone in on your personal requirement, and do the best you can to
> totally meet it.
>
> And I mean really meet it: don't do like this one fellow on the Paceline
> forum a few years ago who tried to combine sporty fun driving and
> transporting a bicycle by getting a Porsche Cayman to carry his S
> Coupled bike.  He did it once; the time disassembling and reassembling
> his bike to get it to fit into the Cayman turned out to be so great (2
> assemblies, 2 disassemblies at around 30 minutes each!) turned out to be
> so onerous he gave up cycling entirely.
>
> --
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia
> USA
>
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Re: [RBW] Recomendations For Cycling-Specific Vehicle

[Tim Butterfield]

Paul,

If the primary purpose is cargo, I would vote with Jeff/sameness for a
small work van as used by many businesses.  There are quite a few on the
market now and at fairly reasonable prices.  I think the starting price of
even a Mercedez-Benz Metris is only about $26k.  With solid sides in the
back, the bike can be not only inside and locked, but invisible also with
some hanging dividers.

Tim

On Tue, Sep 25, 2018 at 4:07 PM PG <4thgearfl...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Question for the RBW brain trust...
>
> If you were going to buy a vehicle for the primary purpose of transporting
> a bike -- and I'm only talking about carrying one bike -- what would it be?
>
> Guidelines:  Under 40Gs, and preferably with the bike carried and lockable
> inside the vehicle.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Paul
>

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Re: [RBW] Wayback Roadeo page?

[Tim Butterfield]

Is this what you're looking for?
https://web.archive.org/web/20170704034516/https://www.rivbike.com/collections/framesets/products/roadeo

Tim

On Sun, Aug 5, 2018 at 7:17 PM, Lum Gim Fong  wrote:

> Anyone know how to use the Wayback machine to get to the rodeo page that
> was on the Riv site a few weeks ago? Before they took it down?
>

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Re: [RBW] OT - Wooden Boat Build Complete (and the paint matches my Saluki!)

[Tim Butterfield]

Nice job.  I like it.  Towing was one of the first things I thought of when
I saw it.  Maybe use some flip up dinghy wheels like the Davis
Wheel-A-Weigh and a mast extension for a bike hitch.  Could make a light
weight bike tow-able package.

Tim

On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 12:24 PM, Tony DeFilippo  wrote:

> Patrick the hull is 90lbs empty - well within your bikepacking load limits
>> from what I hear! :)
>
>
> The trick would be rigging up some fat 650B tired wheels for a tow vehicle
> I think...
>

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Re: [RBW] Thoughts on Space Behind Seat Tube on LWB Bikes

[Tim Butterfield]

Isn’t that where the battery pack goes on many e-bikes?  Just saying.

Tim

On Fri, Jul 20, 2018 at 5:22 PM Collin A  wrote:

> With Riv's full dedication on the longer wheel base design, there is now a
> significant underutilized space between the seat-tube and the rear wheel
> with all sorts of possibilities to jam stuff in there. Has anyone though of
> clever items to stuff there and/or the means of attaching them? Riv has an
> example on one of their demo Atlantis' and I overheard someone talking
> about a bag that could be custom made to fit that space. Currently I just
> have my trail pump strapped on there...
>
> Looking forward to hearing people's ideas!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: RIV Catalog Arrived

[Tim Butterfield]

I have not yet received my catalog up here in WA state.  I did receive the
Banana Sax and OttoLock I ordered on 5/10, but no catalog was included with
the order either.

Tim

On Tue, May 22, 2018 at 1:54 PM, Bernie Burton 
wrote:

> I am a Life member and not received my catalog yet!!
>
> Bernie Burton
>
> On Tue, May 22, 2018 at 1:58 PM, Grant Petersen 
> wrote:
>
>> at this point, two ways to get a catalog
>>
>> 1. order something
>> 2. call and ask
>>
>> in a week or so we'll have it online, for those who prefer a screen!
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

Thanks, Rod and Kellie.  Though a search shows tubeless on the Atlas rims
may be possible as Phil K did, I'm not sure I'm ready for that experiment
yet and will stick with tubes for now.  I will lower my pressure some to
see what happens.

Tim

On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 5:13 PM, Kellie  wrote:

> I run tubeless even lower: 28psi front/30 rear
>
>
> On Sunday, May 13, 2018 at 9:17:32 PM UTC-7, Rod Holland wrote:
>>
>> With RTPs, 40+PSI will get you to the Bouncy House. I run mine at
>> 30/35PSI (235lb rider).
>>
>> rod
>>
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Re: [RBW] Workstand clamping

[Tim Butterfield]

I could probably hold my 57 Homer in my Park stand by the very top of the
seat tube.  Just below that is the RBW band and the bottle cage is below
that.  So, the top is the only area there to clamp it.  But, I don’t do
that.  I usually balance the bike in the clamp at some point on the top
tube and only tighten the clamp enough to hold it, which is very little
since it is balanced.  I do similar with my Atlantis.

Tim

On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 11:47 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> I just cover the rubber clamps with a couple plastic baggies and clamp
> lightly to the toptube. There's no risk of the bike sliding down so it
> doesn't have to clamp tight like on a post or seattube.
>
> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Banana sax reviews needed. Stuff fall out?

[Tim Butterfield]

This thread pushed me over the edge also.  Mine should arrive Monday along
with an Otto lock.  I got the brown sax so I could use it with both my blue
Homer and green Atlantis.

On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 12:35 PM Conway Bennett <
captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com> wrote:

> This thread plus that the blue was going away pushed and that I gave my
> wife my baggins hobo bag pushed me over the edge.  I just ordered the
> banana sax and a bosco bars for my tandem.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Reader PDF Archives

[Tim Butterfield]

Hmmm.  Does this mean we need an RR00.pdf file to really be complete?

Tim

On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 8:19 AM, Grant @ Rivendell <grant6...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> THere was a Zero, mailed in December, a warm yellow color and a few pages
> saying something like, "Not sure this will work, but .." It was mailed to
> 3,900 Bridgestone Owners Bunch (BOB) members--kind of the precursor to our
> current customer/mailing list. In the last year of Bstone, lots of the fun
> good stuff there was sitting unsold bc bike dealers didn't want it (wool
> jerseys, XO-1's..) and rather than discount it below cost to clear the
> shelves, I suggested we sell it direct to people who did want it. So BOB
> was formed, with a newsletter called the BOB Gazette. It went on for a year
> or so, we sold bike stuff, The Song of Hiawatha, and the last of the
> world's professional grade horsehide baseballs, and other stuff. When
> Bstone announce closing down, I asked for the BOB mailing list, the 3,900,
> as part of my going away package (I'd copied it on a floppy just in
> case...), and boss said Yes, and that's how it went.
>
> On Thursday, May 10, 2018 at 6:34:12 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for your efforts and for Grant for the 40 and 44.
>>
>> As for the complete bit, Issue 44 has this to start the first paragraph:
>> "When Rivendell Reader 0 was mailed in 1994, ..."  Was that a typo or is
>> there an issue zero?
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 4:50 PM, Reed Kennedy <re...@notfine.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Grant was kind enough to send me PDFs of Rivendell Readers 40 and 44!
>>> Now the archive is complete:
>>> http://notfine.com/rivreader/
>>>
>>> Please help yourself!
>>>
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> Reed
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Reader PDF Archives

[Tim Butterfield]

Thanks for your efforts and for Grant for the 40 and 44.

As for the complete bit, Issue 44 has this to start the first paragraph:
"When Rivendell Reader 0 was mailed in 1994, ..."  Was that a typo or is
there an issue zero?

Tim

On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 4:50 PM, Reed Kennedy  wrote:

> Grant was kind enough to send me PDFs of Rivendell Readers 40 and 44! Now
> the archive is complete:
> http://notfine.com/rivreader/
>
> Please help yourself!
>
>
> Best,
> Reed
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

Thanks, Laing.  I was thinking not just of the initial pair, but of
potentially having to replace a single tire several years down the road.
But, I guess I could always just get another matched pair.  It's just
money.  Not likely to be a real issue, though.

Tim

On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 10:58 AM, lconley <lcon...@brph.com> wrote:

> I should note that I have tan 700C x 44 Snoqualmie Pass on my Sam and tan
> 650b x 48 Switchback Hill on my Bombadil - they came as matched sets, no
> problem.
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Thursday, May 10, 2018 at 1:51:23 PM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
>> The tan looks good when it's matched up, but not being matched would
>> likely annoy me.   I'm not sure I want to go through the hassle of buying
>> several or worrying about later replacement issues trying to get them
>> matched.  I think I'll stick with black.  Thanks, Laing.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 6:06 AM, lconley <lco...@brph.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I had my opinion on this formed a very long time ago - almost 50 years
>>> at this point. Schwinn Varsity Sports had black tires. The nicer Schwinn
>>> Continentals and Super Sports had tan sidewall "Puff Gumwall" tires. The
>>> nice Vittoria silk sew-ups had tan sidewalls and the cheap Wolber
>>> sew-ups were all black. I have associated black sidewalls with cheap tires
>>> ever since. I almost always use tan sidewalls, which were getting harder to
>>> find 10 years ago, but they have made a comeback. I love Compass tires with
>>> tan sidewalls, but sometimes the color of tan can vary from reddish to
>>> yellowish. I actually ended up buying three to get a better color match for
>>> my Frank Jones, Sr. Anybody want a deal on a single yellowish tan sidewall
>>> 700c x 38 Barlow Pass? Black is easier to match.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>> Cocoa FL
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, May 8, 2018 at 11:36:06 PM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>>
>>>> I thought I was all set for some black Rat Trap Pass extra lights for
>>>> my Atlantis.  But, after seeing Julian's very nice build, I have another
>>>> factor to consider.  I cannot recall having a light sidewall on an adult
>>>> bike.  I've always had black.  Maybe it's time for a change.  The light
>>>> sidewall tires sure look nice on Julian's Atlantis.  Any other opinions on
>>>> this?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
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>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

The tan looks good when it's matched up, but not being matched would likely
annoy me.   I'm not sure I want to go through the hassle of buying several
or worrying about later replacement issues trying to get them matched.  I
think I'll stick with black.  Thanks, Laing.

Tim

On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 6:06 AM, lconley <lcon...@brph.com> wrote:

> I had my opinion on this formed a very long time ago - almost 50 years at
> this point. Schwinn Varsity Sports had black tires. The nicer Schwinn
> Continentals and Super Sports had tan sidewall "Puff Gumwall" tires. The
> nice Vittoria silk sew-ups had tan sidewalls and the cheap Wolber
> sew-ups were all black. I have associated black sidewalls with cheap tires
> ever since. I almost always use tan sidewalls, which were getting harder to
> find 10 years ago, but they have made a comeback. I love Compass tires with
> tan sidewalls, but sometimes the color of tan can vary from reddish to
> yellowish. I actually ended up buying three to get a better color match for
> my Frank Jones, Sr. Anybody want a deal on a single yellowish tan sidewall
> 700c x 38 Barlow Pass? Black is easier to match.
>
> Laing
> Cocoa FL
>
> On Tuesday, May 8, 2018 at 11:36:06 PM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
>> I thought I was all set for some black Rat Trap Pass extra lights for my
>> Atlantis.  But, after seeing Julian's very nice build, I have another
>> factor to consider.  I cannot recall having a light sidewall on an adult
>> bike.  I've always had black.  Maybe it's time for a change.  The light
>> sidewall tires sure look nice on Julian's Atlantis.  Any other opinions on
>> this?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

I thought I was all set for some black Rat Trap Pass extra lights for my
Atlantis.  But, after seeing Julian's very nice build, I have another
factor to consider.  I cannot recall having a light sidewall on an adult
bike.  I've always had black.  Maybe it's time for a change.  The light
sidewall tires sure look nice on Julian's Atlantis.  Any other opinions on
this?

Thanks.

Tim

On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 9:56 PM, Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to
> have the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass
> would fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and
> definitely the 1.5" McClure Pass.
>
> Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It doesn't
> currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  I'd
> probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
> the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
> rainy rides.
>
> What would your recommendations be for this tire?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>

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Re: [RBW] My redone Atlantis

[Tim Butterfield]

Very nice, Julian.

Tim

On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 3:31 PM, Julian Westerhout 
wrote:

> Over the winter I redid my Toyo Atlantis - stripped to the bare frame and
> rebuilt it -- went from mustache to Noodles, got fancy new-to-me wheels,
> crankset, and BB as well as bags and rear support from the list. Stem,
> rack, and sundries from Riv. Compass tires. Paul Touring cantilevers.
>
> Looking at this photo it looks undersized (certainly it is by Riv
> standards) -- it's a 64, and in a fender-less fattie setup I like the extra
> room. My Ram and QB are 68 cm. I took it out for a 24 mile spin today --
> thoroughly enjoyable.
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, Il
>
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

Thanks all for confirming RTP width is non issue for these rims.  I don’t
normally run a really low pressure, usually 40+, but now have a first item
to check if handling gets squirrelly.

Tim

On Mon, May 7, 2018 at 5:54 AM Tim Gavin <tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com>
wrote:

> Tim-
>
> St. Sheldon's dogma is pretty conservative in the regard of "proper tire
> width for a given rim width".
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
> (Width Considerations chart is the red/green one most of the way down the
> page)
>
> However, many folks have ridden many millions of miles on 2" (54 mm) tires
> on 17 mm internal rims -- because that was pretty much all there were at
> the dawn of MTB/ATB/Trekking bikes.
>
> The risk with a too-wide tire is the same as that of an under-inflated
> tire: risk of the tire folding over when turning aggressively.
> Keep your PSI above ~25 and you shouldn't have that problem with RTPs on
> an Atlas rim.
>
> On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 11:58 PM, Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>>
>> I just looked it up.  I think this is the right ones.
>> http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/atlas-559
>>
>> If so, inside width is 19.8mm with max optimal tire width of 45mm, quite
>> a bit narrower than the RTP.  Hmmm.  Will the extra width of the RTP be an
>> issue with these rims?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 8:55 PM Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I know the rims are Atlas, but don’t know the width or have a caliper to
>>> measure.   With the multiple confirmations, I will be getting the RTP EL
>>> tires instead of the other two I had mentioned.
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 2:19 PM Rod Holland <rholland1...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Tim,
>>>>
>>>> I've been using RTP Extralights on my Surly Trucker DeLuxe (a
>>>> 26"-wheeled LHT, for all intents and purposes). I find they measure out at
>>>> 53mm (2.08") on Sun Rhyno Lite rims. What is the inner size of the rims
>>>> you'll be wanting to mount your tires on? The Rhyno Lites have an interior
>>>> measure of 22mm. The RTPs fit under Planet Bike Cascadia ATB fenders. You
>>>> really might want to give them at try, if they're what you're really
>>>> looking for. Of the two other tires you mentioned, I'd got with the Naches
>>>> Pass EL over the McClure. The McClure is the last of the "Compassela"
>>>> tires, good as far as they go, but just not as supple as any of the EL
>>>> variants.
>>>>
>>>> rod
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, May 3, 2018 at 12:56:30 AM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to
>>>>> have the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass
>>>>> would fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and
>>>>> definitely the 1.5" McClure Pass.
>>>>>
>>>>> Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It
>>>>> doesn't currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  
>>>>> I'd
>>>>> probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
>>>>> the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
>>>>> rainy rides.
>>>>>
>>>>> What would your recommendations be for this tire?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>> Tim
>>>>>
>>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

I just looked it up.  I think this is the right ones.
http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/atlas-559

If so, inside width is 19.8mm with max optimal tire width of 45mm, quite a
bit narrower than the RTP.  Hmmm.  Will the extra width of the RTP be an
issue with these rims?

Thanks.

Tim

On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 8:55 PM Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I know the rims are Atlas, but don’t know the width or have a caliper to
> measure.   With the multiple confirmations, I will be getting the RTP EL
> tires instead of the other two I had mentioned.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>
> On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 2:19 PM Rod Holland <rholland1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Tim,
>>
>> I've been using RTP Extralights on my Surly Trucker DeLuxe (a 26"-wheeled
>> LHT, for all intents and purposes). I find they measure out at 53mm (2.08")
>> on Sun Rhyno Lite rims. What is the inner size of the rims you'll be
>> wanting to mount your tires on? The Rhyno Lites have an interior measure of
>> 22mm. The RTPs fit under Planet Bike Cascadia ATB fenders. You really might
>> want to give them at try, if they're what you're really looking for. Of the
>> two other tires you mentioned, I'd got with the Naches Pass EL over the
>> McClure. The McClure is the last of the "Compassela" tires, good as far as
>> they go, but just not as supple as any of the EL variants.
>>
>> rod
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, May 3, 2018 at 12:56:30 AM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>>
>>> I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to
>>> have the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass
>>> would fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and
>>> definitely the 1.5" McClure Pass.
>>>
>>> Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It doesn't
>>> currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  I'd
>>> probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
>>> the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
>>> rainy rides.
>>>
>>> What would your recommendations be for this tire?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

Thanks for adding to the RTP confirmations.

Tim

On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 2:48 PM Frank Brose <fkbr...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Tim,
> I have Rat Trap Pass and fenders on my Toyo built Atlantis with plenty of
> clearance.
> Frank
> Tomahawk, Wisconsin
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 2, 2018 at 11:56:30 PM UTC-5, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to
>> have the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass
>> would fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and
>> definitely the 1.5" McClure Pass.
>>
>> Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It doesn't
>> currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  I'd
>> probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
>> the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
>> rainy rides.
>>
>> What would your recommendations be for this tire?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

I know the rims are Atlas, but don’t know the width or have a caliper to
measure.   With the multiple confirmations, I will be getting the RTP EL
tires instead of the other two I had mentioned.

Thanks.

Tim

On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 2:19 PM Rod Holland <rholland1...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Tim,
>
> I've been using RTP Extralights on my Surly Trucker DeLuxe (a 26"-wheeled
> LHT, for all intents and purposes). I find they measure out at 53mm (2.08")
> on Sun Rhyno Lite rims. What is the inner size of the rims you'll be
> wanting to mount your tires on? The Rhyno Lites have an interior measure of
> 22mm. The RTPs fit under Planet Bike Cascadia ATB fenders. You really might
> want to give them at try, if they're what you're really looking for. Of the
> two other tires you mentioned, I'd got with the Naches Pass EL over the
> McClure. The McClure is the last of the "Compassela" tires, good as far as
> they go, but just not as supple as any of the EL variants.
>
> rod
>
>
> On Thursday, May 3, 2018 at 12:56:30 AM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to
>> have the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass
>> would fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and
>> definitely the 1.5" McClure Pass.
>>
>> Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It doesn't
>> currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  I'd
>> probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
>> the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
>> rainy rides.
>>
>> What would your recommendations be for this tire?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

That’s sweet.  Thanks.

On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 1:10 PM Kellie <kellie.staple...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Here's Rat Trap Pass on an Atlantis with fenders; 26" wheels.
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Sn8Wa17faA0/Wu9hKJZn9iI/A6E/-0zbkhVmZJAio07Sp6EyoTi6yA0RtEeYACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_4489.jpg>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Sn8Wa17faA0/Wu9hKJZn9iI/A6E/-0zbkhVmZJAio07Sp6EyoTi6yA0RtEeYACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_4489.jpg>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 2, 2018 at 9:56:30 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
>> I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to
>> have the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass
>> would fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and
>> definitely the 1.5" McClure Pass.
>>
>> Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It doesn't
>> currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  I'd
>> probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
>> the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
>> rainy rides.
>>
>> What would your recommendations be for this tire?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Tim Butterfield]

Maybe it has a smooth ride instead of smooth talk and they could add the
quotes and an 'L' to it and end with an 'e'.  "Sir" Blarney Johnstone.

On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 3:53 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> This bike has me more excited and curious than any new Riv since I started
> following in 2011.
>
> No offense to Grant & Co., but I really hope they can come up with a
> better name.
>
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Re: [RBW] OT but mentioned on the Blahg: Hiking

[Tim Butterfield]

I prefer sandals, specifically Luna Sandals in a model with a sole with a
bit of traction.  These are the sandals first inspired by the Tarahumara as
documented in the book, Born to Run.  I figure if they're good enough for
folks running long distance trail races, they should be good enough for me
to use for very short distances also.  I like them and have several pair.

https://lunasandals.com/


On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 8:27 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> I was going to email Grant directly, but figured he could always chime in
> here if he wants. What's the scoop with hiking? I want to start doing a bit
> of it, and I imagine there's a modern variety with all kinds of ridiculous
> gear and "training" that this JoeRivBob would rather avoid. What do regular
> folks who just want to go for a nice walk in the hills need to know?
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA.
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

Awesome info.  Thanks everyone.

The current set is Schwalbe Marathon 1.75" on Atlas wheels and there seems
to be plenty of space.

The RTP sound great, especially if I can still add fenders later if
needed.  I'll go ahead and order a set.

Thanks again.

Tim

On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 9:56 PM, Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to
> have the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass
> would fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and
> definitely the 1.5" McClure Pass.
>
> Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It doesn't
> currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  I'd
> probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
> the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
> rainy rides.
>
> What would your recommendations be for this tire?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

I should probably add some clarifying thoughts.  I know both the Naches
Pass and McClure Pass EL will have a plush ride.  Are the Naches Pass EL
likely to be sufficiently more plus than the McClure Pass EL to prevent
possible use of a fender in future with the same tire?  I'm not planning to
get fenders but, if I change my mind, I would rather not have to get a
whole new set of tires to do it, not unless the interim ride is enough
better to warrant it.  That's why I was wondering about those two.

Thanks.

Tim

On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 9:56 PM, Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to
> have the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass
> would fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and
> definitely the 1.5" McClure Pass.
>
> Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It doesn't
> currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  I'd
> probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
> the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
> rainy rides.
>
> What would your recommendations be for this tire?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>

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[RBW] Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Butterfield]

I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to have
the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass would
fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and definitely the
1.5" McClure Pass.

Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It doesn't
currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  I'd
probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
rainy rides.

What would your recommendations be for this tire?

Thanks.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] What do Rivendell Riders use for aerobic base training heart rate monitors?

[Tim Butterfield]

I use a Wahoo Fitness Tickr X heart rate strap.  It is dual band, Ant+ and
bluetooth.  I have used it connected simultaneously to both the Wahoo
Fitness app on my iPhone and a Garmin 520.  It also has motion sensing
built in and can detect walk/run strides and also workout reps.  I haven't
tried it, but I think it can it can work phone-free and store data in
memory with the sync happening later.  Of course, that particular feature
would only be for when you did not need an HR read out during the exercise,
if you wanted to go by feel and verify later.  My best recommendation:  If
I needed to buy a HR strap today, I would buy this one.

https://www.wahoofitness.com/devices/heart-rate-monitors#tickrx-sec

For a read out of HR during a ride, I recommend a quad-lock mount on the
bike stem for your phone.  My iPhone 5S finally died.  I had used it in a
hard plastic case with the generic quad-lock adapter adhered to the back.
I have a new iPhone now and will be doing something similar, getting a
quad-lock hard case to stick it in for use on the bike.  On my Homer, I
have the out front mount that put the phone at the front of the bar and
left room on the stem for the Garmin.  This let both devices mount centered
on the bar.  Now that I have an Atlantis also, I may get the same mount for
it.  I like it just a bit further forward for visibility compared with the
stem mount; might get the GoPro adapter for mounting it underneath that
also.

https://www.quadlockcase.com/

Tim

On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 8:59 PM, Lum Gim Fong  wrote:

> What do Rivendell Riders use for aerobic base training  heart rate
> monitors?
>
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Re: [RBW] Extreme Commuting--a checklist ride complete

[Tim Butterfield]

Great job on the commute.  Mine is less than 30 feet, so no riding for me.

I second what Patrick said and recommend getting one of Phil’s books.
Something to keep in mind that I have discovered with his formula, if
you’re over about 50 or so, you might need to add a bpm or several to make
up for age skew.

One formula is roughly this:
Level of effort X duration = recovery time

If you can decrease either level of effort or duration, you will likely
recover faster.  As Patrick mentioned, a big factor in this is how much
above or below your aerobic threshold your level of effort is.  If you can
stay comfortably below that threshold, your recovery times will greatly
reduce.  Also, if you can convert to burning more fats than sugars as Phil
discusses, you can really minimize recovery times or greatly extend
durations.  One giant benefit of this, the more you do at that lower level
of effort, the faster you can get at that level.  It’s a bit more nuanced
than that with building a base before ramping up a level, etc., but that’s
the overall effect of it.

Have fun with the experiments.

Tim



On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 6:19 PM Lum Gim Fong  wrote:

> My round trip work commute, least miles, is 30 miles. Every year I work up
> to coupla times per week but usually can’t do more as i never recover fast
> enough for some reason. I do shorter rides in between. Restaurant runs, etc.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone have a spare Rivendell mug they're willing to part with?

[Tim Butterfield]

On Tue, Mar 27, 2018 at 9:52 AM, Doug H.  wrote:

> Is a lugged mug possible? Call it a luggle muggle??? Make it distinctly
> Riv.


Sure.  Here is a stainless mug image I found with a quick search.


It should be possible to add lugs at the top and bottom of the handle.
 For something like this one, you would have a lug for perpendicular
connection at top and angled connection at the bottom.  I have also seen
versions of the handle that have a perpendicular connection at top and
bottom.  As long as the cup is of sufficient size for some coffee/tea and
the handle is relatively comfortable, I would be okay with either.  I
suspect having slightly different lugs would be a bit more elegant and I
would prefer that if possible.  If it needs a paint/enamel coating, I would
prefer RBW Blue.

I have a double wall stainless mug that I bought long ago for use in my
workshop.  Mine is a variation from Lee Valley/Veritas made with a flat
steel handle instead of with round material as in this example.  That
workshop has been sold along with the house it was part of, but I've keep
the mug.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[Tim Butterfield]

That's an interesting plot for dimensions.  Ideally, the graph would be
three dimensional as size affects some axis like the ability to fit on
public transport.  But, I was thinking more of just a general sense of
purpose to start with.

On Fri, Mar 23, 2018 at 10:27 AM, iamkeith  wrote:

> That graph is cool.  A bit like a venn diagram, but better.  Here's an
> interesting open source diagram that compares stack and reach of various
> known bikes.  I bet this service/function could be used to map "function,"
> too, by someone more ambitious than me:
>
> https://public.tableau.com/shared/2ZJR4YT4Z?:display_count=yes
>
>
> On Friday, March 23, 2018 at 11:08:59 AM UTC-6, tc wrote:
>>
>> I like Tim's color space analogy.  It would translate very well, I think,
>> to any bike builder trying to convey, at a glance, where each bike offered
>> is targeted, similar, and different.  Once could imagine the major
>> categories ranging from pure road to pure off-road, while also including
>> other characteristics like weight, wheelbase, weight-carrying, cost, etc..
>> Pick the factors most important to you and zero in on the bikes with
>> largest footprint in the diagram.  Or, cooler still, each factor is in its
>> own layer, and mix and match layers to come up with a result you like.
>>
>> Then maybe throw all that out cuz you think some bike that is nowhere
>> near your target is just better looking :)
>>
>> Seriously though, I'm no math major but I'm sure someone who is could put
>> that together easily.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[Tim Butterfield]

 Thanks, Tom.

This bike use spectrum may also be circular to more easily account for more
ranges being added.
In this case, ranges could be defined from the center out and easily
connect the dots to define a coverage area.  The coverage area line could
then be more jagged and not need a smooth line to connect one axis to
another.  Each axis, from the center outward, could be a numeric range such
as 0 at the center to 10 at the outer edge.  A next step may be just
defining what ranges to measure.  There could also be primary axis and
lighter weight secondary and tertiary axis added as desired.  This may be
worthy of starting a new thread.

Tim


On Fri, Mar 23, 2018 at 10:08 AM, tc  wrote:

> I like Tim's color space analogy.  It would translate very well, I think,
> to any bike builder trying to convey, at a glance, where each bike offered
> is targeted, similar, and different.  Once could imagine the major
> categories ranging from pure road to pure off-road, while also including
> other characteristics like weight, wheelbase, weight-carrying, cost, etc..
> Pick the factors most important to you and zero in on the bikes with
> largest footprint in the diagram.  Or, cooler still, each factor is in its
> own layer, and mix and match layers to come up with a result you like.
>
> Then maybe throw all that out cuz you think some bike that is nowhere near
> your target is just better looking :)
>
> Seriously though, I'm no math major but I'm sure someone who is could put
> that together easily.
>
> Tom
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[Tim Butterfield]

I certainly appreciate Grant's participation here to explain what he has.
Any change to an icon comes with some nail biting and nerves.  It's
expected.   I'm sure the new Atlantis will be a great bike.  How can it
not?  In my case, I have no complaint or critique so much as a quest for
clarity.  What are the expected effects of the changes?

I sometimes liken the possibilities of riding a bike to color spaces.  Here
is an image from this page to illustrate:
https://www.color-management-guide.com/color-spaces.html



Consider this area the whole of the bike use spectrum.  The two lines
within may illustrate two different bikes.  Both cover the center and not
insignificant areas of the spectrum, but they are not identical.  Though
there are some common areas that overlap, they also each cover an area the
other does not.  Bikes are similar.  All of the Riv bikes are good bikes
that can all do some basic things of the bike use spectrum well, but some
models also have areas not as well covered by other models.  Shifts to
accommodate more of one area give up some cover in another.  That's
expected.

In the case of the the new vs old Atlantis, I was trying to speculate on
what this scope of spectrum shift might have been and, possibly, how that
shift may be explained.  The longer chainstays help with the mountain bike
aspect, but will likely have some impact on commuting via public
transport.  Are there other areas of the bike use spectrum that would have
similar positive, neutral, or negative impacts of the change?

Tim





On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 5:26 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Eamon said *"Jeez Bill, this is a discussion forum, not a positive
> approving comments only forum. :p "*
>
> You are right.  Nobody is required to be generous and kind in their
> comments towards Grant or his work.  If you want to insult his work, you
> can.  Just be aware that your honest and sincere criticisms will bum him
> out, somewhat.  Grant said:
>
>
>
> *"It's a minor bummer to find the latest greatest prides and joys
> evaluated harshly because the numbers don't fit into familiar spreadsheets,
> whether on paper on in brains. I'll retreat now..."*The things you type
> here do get read, and Grant cares what people think. You don't have to
> change what you think to protect Grant's feelings, and you don't have to
> keep your complaints to yourself if you don't want to, but I think it's
> worth remembering that it will hurt his feelings, and it will discourage
> him from sharing early info about other unfinished projects.  Grant's a big
> boy and he will get over it.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[Tim Butterfield]

Of course they all ride great.  They're Rivs!  :)  Has there ever been a
bad one?  I'm not sure I've heard of one.  But, each has different areas in
which they excel.  I doubt a Roadeo would make as a good a tourer as the
current Atlantis or the Atlantis as good for a club ride as the Roadeo.
But, in excelling for one area, they give up something in others.  They are
not all equally all rounders.  With something as iconic as the Atlantis,
any change is viewed with keen interest.  I'm glad I got my current 26
Atlantis, though I wish I could finish other tasks so I could get it put
together.  Still, I am interested in learning the scope of what might have
been sacrificed for some things in the new one to make it better as a
mountain bike and possibly other things.  There is a shifting on the scales
and we're not yet sure where the boundaries for the new model ended up.
Like you say, it may be only some extensive riding will determine that.  In
the mean time, we speculate.  :)

Tim

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 2:06 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> I think we might want to wait 'til someone's ridden the new Atlantis
> before we completely lose our freaking minds!!! I've owned: Romulus,
> Bleriot, AHH, Rambouillet, Saluki, Appaloosa, a couple Clems (one H, one
> L), and now a Cheviot. They all rode great, and even the very roadish
> Romulus handled China Camp's (Marin County, CA.) singletrack quite well.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[Tim Butterfield]

Steve,
That fat bike is a good example of what I was trying to say.  I suspect
this may be a difference of _optimized_ for the fringe versus just
_passable_ at the fringe.  Expanding into the passable scope may not
sacrifice the other end of the range as much as the optimized scope.  But,
the more you move from passable to optimized at one end, the greater the
sacrifice at the other.

Tim

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 1:59 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

>
>
> On 03/22/2018 04:13 PM, Grant Petersen wrote:
>
> The point which I flopped in making is that a bike that "performs" at the
> fringes can certainly handle the middle, but not necessarily the other way
> around. I should have been more clear.
>
>
> [image: Image result for fat bike]
>
>
> Performs great at the fringe, but on the next 50 miler out in the
> country...?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[Tim Butterfield]

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 1:13 PM, Grant Petersen  wrote:

> The point which I flopped in making is that a bike that "performs" at the
> fringes can certainly handle the middle, but not necessarily the other way
> around. I should have been more clear.
>

Hmmm.  I'm not sure this is more clear.  It seems kind of like saying that
a formula 1 car, which does great at the fringe, would still make a good
daily driver.  Even narrowing down the extreme a bit, it might be a general
rule that a car with a harder suspension for the track sacrifices ride
comfort on the street.  Often, those that try to do both are good at
neither.  As another example, motorsailer boats are usually neither good
sailboats nor good motorboats.  They sacrifice on both ends to accommodate
that stretch of functionality.  Of course, maybe this is possible with
bikes, but not these other examples.  Or, maybe the particular set of
functionality better allows for that spread of coverage.  Of course, I
yield to your expertise that it will perform as intended.  I'm just not yet
sure what that intention is.  I might need to wait for the catalog to find
out.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] First pedestrian killed by autonomous car

[Tim Butterfield]

The mule aberration was considered a threat to humanity in that it could
delay/extend the dark age/period after the collapse of the empire by
tracking down and eliminating the influence of the second foundation, which
was helping the first foundation from the shadows.  The mule was therefore
neutralized by the robot, Olivaw.  I don't recall there being a question of
whether it should or not.  The part I referred to was the need for a
decision on whether the planet Gaia should be extended to be Galaxia or if
the galaxy should be left separate.  Olivaw could not make that decision
himself and needed a human to decide the 'rightness' for him.

On Tue, Mar 20, 2018 at 11:12 AM, George Schick <bhim...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Except when it failed.  IIRC, an aberration known as "the mule" appeared
> along the way in the trilogy and they (the robot (R.Daneel Olivaw) working
> through the humans (2nd Foundation) had to find a work-around to keep the
> future from slipping into a dark age.
>
> On Tuesday, March 20, 2018 at 12:21:27 PM UTC-5, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> Patrick,
>>
>> There was some of this exact thinking in some of Azimov's Foundation
>> series.  I don't recall if it was an Azimov book or another added to the
>> series, though I suspect the later.  On a galactic level, the robots were
>> unable to determine what was best for humanity.  So, they found a human who
>> always made the 'right' decisions and put that person in charge of
>> determining the right decision to make.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 20, 2018 at 9:52 AM, Deacon Patrick <lamon...@mac.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Asimov’s laws are pretty, and a logical foundation from which to start,
>>> but are far from being the answer they appear. Take the first “law” of
>>> medicine, for example. Modern doctors deleted the notion of “first, do no
>>> harm” from the modern Hippocratic Oath (which isn’t required), and added
>>> some stunning language which supports euthanasia for patients who are
>>> burdens on family/society) — might not robots do the same? Define “harm”?
>>> Are humans smart enough to know “harm” when they see it? Or only robots?
>>> http://mindyourheadcoop.org/the-hippocratic-oath-that-isnt
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] First pedestrian killed by autonomous car

[Tim Butterfield]

Patrick,

There was some of this exact thinking in some of Azimov's Foundation
series.  I don't recall if it was an Azimov book or another added to the
series, though I suspect the later.  On a galactic level, the robots were
unable to determine what was best for humanity.  So, they found a human who
always made the 'right' decisions and put that person in charge of
determining the right decision to make.

Tim

On Tue, Mar 20, 2018 at 9:52 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Asimov’s laws are pretty, and a logical foundation from which to start,
> but are far from being the answer they appear. Take the first “law” of
> medicine, for example. Modern doctors deleted the notion of “first, do no
> harm” from the modern Hippocratic Oath (which isn’t required), and added
> some stunning language which supports euthanasia for patients who are
> burdens on family/society) — might not robots do the same? Define “harm”?
> Are humans smart enough to know “harm” when they see it? Or only robots?
> http://mindyourheadcoop.org/the-hippocratic-oath-that-isnt
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>

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Re: [RBW] First pedestrian killed by autonomous car

[Tim Butterfield]

On Tue, Mar 20, 2018 at 8:40 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> There it is. https://twitter.com/FortuneMagazine/status/
> 976099801669521409?s=19


Hmmm.  It may not be in this case, but I have a sad premonition that people
playing with/around self-driving cars may become an extreme sport.  What
can someone do and get away with without getting hurt?  Maybe a version of
parkour over Uber or mountain biking over them.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] First pedestrian killed by autonomous car

[Tim Butterfield]

Curtis,

There is also the Zeroth law, which takes precedence over the other three.

0.  A robot may not harm humanity, or, by inaction, allow humanity to come
to harm.

Of course, these are built into the positronic brain, which does not yet
exist.

Tim

On Tue, Mar 20, 2018 at 6:05 AM, Curtis McKenzie  wrote:

> Hello Everyone,
>
> Just a quick note about the "self-driving" cars.
>
> Isaac Asimov's "Three Laws of Robotics"
>
>
>1. A robot may not injure a human being or, through inaction, allow a
>human being to come to harm.
>
>2. A robot must obey orders given it by human beings except where such
>orders would conflict with the First Law.
>
>3. A robot must protect its own existence as long as such protection
>does not conflict with the First or Second Law.
>
>
> Oh my!
>
> Curtis "who thinks there is more to this story"
>
> On Tue, Mar 20, 2018 at 5:46 AM, Jim Bronson 
> wrote:
>
>> I would trust Google with this technology more than Uber.  Uber has shown
>> quite frequently that they push the envelope on what is legal and what is
>> moral.  Google's stated philosophy is "first, do no harm".  Pretty big
>> difference there.
>>
>> I don't know if perception is reality, but it seems to me that Google has
>> put the most work and the most time into the field.  My built in bias would
>> be that I live in Austin and have many relatives in the Bay Area, which I
>> visit frequently.  These are both places where Google has tested their
>> autonomous driving cars, so I have personally seen many more of them.  I
>> have encountered the Google cars while riding my bike in Austin, in fact.
>>
>> Overall I am in favor of self driving cars, because human drivers are
>> just so bad.  My round-trip daily commute is from 1:15-2:00 so I get a full
>> dose of horrendous human drivers every day.
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 19, 2018 at 8:58 PM, Jim M.  wrote:
>>
>>> On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 3:58:21 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 Since computer driven cars are basically still in the laboratory

>>>
>>> I'm not going to argue that autonomous cars are ready for prime time,
>>> but they're still in the lab only if you consider the streets of Mountain
>>> View, the Golden Gate Bridge, and the road around Lake Tahoe the lab.
>>> Google cars alone have driven 2 million miles in those areas and others. To
>>> date, most, if not all, of the accidents they have been in were caused by
>>> human drivers of other cars.
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Eat Bacon Don't Jog--Goal set, goal met

[Tim Butterfield]

Peter,
What you discovered is that you can be aerobically strong and anaerobically
out of gas.  As long as you stay aerobic, you can continue to burn fat and
feel strong.  As you edge into and become fully anaerobic, such as when
climbing the steep hills, you need the glycogen stores to provide the
boost.  Living keto lets those stores shrink, which limits how much of the
harder efforts you can do.  A couple of ways to deal with this are:
1. Stay at the upper edge of your aerobic zone.  The longer you work at the
top of this zone, the more you will extend the upper range of this zone.
Thus, you can get faster while still burning fat.
2.  If you have an event and can predict you will be into the anaerobic
zone for a longer duration, you can carb load just for the single event.
This will provide the larger glycogen store needed while still letting you
burn fat while you are in the aerobic zone.  If you find you have used up
your glycogen stores as in your example, you can reload that as needed on
the go.  In your example, you could have had that banana, Clif bar, or
Gatorade to rebuild your glycogen store.   Caveat: This is not for
regular/daily usage/training.  Keep that keto, aerobic, and low duration
anaerobic/intervals.  It's how you build that aerobic zone.

Hope this helps.

Tim



On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 10:50 AM, 'pb' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Arriving late to this conversation.  I have also been "reasonably"
> low-carb for the past few years, but without a real plan.  A few weeks ago
> an old friend whom I respect recommended ketogenic, and I took the plunge.
>
> Results are good, similar to others, weight loss, smooth energy delivery,
> absolutely no problem skipping meals.
>
> However.  Last Sunday I had coffee and cream for breakfast, packed a
> generous Ziploc with almonds, and left for a moderately challenging
> 50-mile/4800 climbing feet ride.  My neighborhood has a steady supply of
> short, steep (15%+) climbs and descents, like one section of the ride that
> has 2200 feet of climbing in just 9 miles.  I have geared for those climbs,
> and my head has accepted them, and they are no big deal.  On this day,
> though, I bonked deeper than I have bonked in years.  Weird sensation to
> feel simultaneously strong and completely out of gas, if such a thing can
> be expressed.  I had nibbled on the almonds steadily, and I was mystified
> that I could never feel the flow of fuel that a banana or a Clif bar or
> even a Gatorade would have given me.
>
> I hadn't had that feeling since I was in my twenties, regularly riding
> 100+ Colorado Front Range climbing days, and staggering into the house
> after riding, wanting to eat absolutely anything I could put my hands on
> right now.
>
> Anyhoo...  I obviously have a lot to learn, and it would seem that Bill
> has learned it.  Maybe Lara bars are a start.
>
> Peter
> Sebastopol CA
>
>

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[RBW] FS: 55cm Bleriot

[Tim Butterfield]

 Not sure if this has been posted before.

Other that what I've seen online, I have no knowledge of either this bike
or the owner nor do I know whether the owner may be willing to ship.  With
that said, there is a 55cm Bleriot in the Seattle Craigslist.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/rivendell-bleriot-55cm-650b/6516300644.html

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv request for store credits

[Tim Butterfield]

Doug, I wish I had that much disposable cash also.  But, alas, it went on
plastic.  Had to; I'm not local.  ;)  Actually, the cash for it will be
disposed of over the next couple of months.  Still, even with that avenue
of purchase, it was too good of a deal to pass up for a Waterford frame
that's different enough from my Homer.  And, it will have been paid for and
being ridden in far less time and money than it would take to order it.
I'm still having a hard time believing I managed to get a Waterford bike
for my +1 for not much more than the Taiwan bikes I had been considering.
Wow is right.

Tim

On Thu, Feb 22, 2018 at 5:58 PM, Doug H.  wrote:

> Wow Tim. Way to take advantage of a good deal. I wish I had that much
> disposable cash on hand. Let us know how you like the Atlantis.
> Doug
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Homer +1 discussion

[Tim Butterfield]

 Thanks all for the feedback.  I think we can end this discussion.  I am no
longer in need of a +1.  I just bought the Atlantis demo from Roman.  The
original brochure had that size fitting an 83 PBH instead of the 84 as on
the page.  So, I just squeezed into it.  It's a 26 instead of 700, but
should make a nice complement to my Homer.

Thanks again.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv request for store credits

[Tim Butterfield]

Don't worry about that Atlantis demo.   It's already gone.


I should be receiving it soon.  I guess I can end my discussion of what to
add to my Homer.

Tim

On Thu, Feb 22, 2018 at 2:38 PM, dougP  wrote:

> CORRECTION:  INCLUDES SEATPOST
>
>
> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 2:07:56 PM UTC-8, dougP wrote:
>>
>> There's still the 56 cm Atlantis for sale for $2,700.  Complete bike,
>> less seatpost & seat, for the price of the frame alone.  Someone NEEDS this
>> bike.
>>
>> dougP (already have my Atlantis, but an active enabler on such matters)
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 4:38:03 PM UTC-8, Chris Birkenmaier
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I was just in Ri s website and saw their request for their loyal
>>> supporters to purchase store credits of $10 units to help through a cash
>>> flow jump. I promptly purchased some credits. I love this company and am
>>> happy to help them out. Goodness knows I always find things I want to buy
>>> from them. While I was doing this I also got an email with the request.
>>> I’d encourage you all to read your email or visit their website for
>>> complete details
>>> Chris
>>> Who is getting a Roadini to add to the collection
>>
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[RBW] Re: Homer +1 discussion

[Tim Butterfield]

There have been some great ideas, some I had not even thought of.  Thanks
for the feedback.

I do have a Wahoo Kickr, but the Snap variation instead.  I got the Snap
because I wasn't sure the Kicker cassette would work with the 9-speed
crank/chain I'm using.  The Snap seemed a safer gamble.  So, that's the
trainer the Homer is on.

The second rear wheel idea is a really good one.  It would have the least
storage impact.  And, while the Homer is on the trainer, it is using a
quick release axle instead of the PitLock it normally uses.  The brakes are
Paul centerpulls, which loosen enough to squeeze the tire through.  So,
I've got a few minutes on each end for the wheel swap and another few
minutes on each end just to get the the bike in and out of the RV.  It's
tight in here.  It would certainly be faster to swap just the wheel instead
of swapping the tire also.   It seems there are a couple of down sides to
this approach.  I would have to roll the (possibly) wet tires through the
RV living room before I used gloves to swap the rear wheel.  That could be
a little messy.  As tight as the RV is, there isn't really a good way to
carry it up the steps and around corners (over carpet) in order to only set
it down near the trainer.  I don't have a dry outside area in which to do
this work.  And, it isn't really the grab and go convenience I would
prefer.  Thus, I'm still leaning towards a +1 approach.

I don't think a Cheviot will work for me.  I'm not sure about the mixte
style, but the sizing doesn't work well.  I'm 5'10" with an 83.8 PBH.
According to the page, my PBH fits the 55cm while my 'typical rider height'
fits the 60cm.  Neither fit within the same size frame.

My Homer was my dream bike and what I ended up with when getting my first
bike after starting to full-time in the RV; not relocating a lot these
days, though.  My Homer stays inside the RV, well protected, even in
summer.  That's where it lives.  A +1 bike will be an outside bike, locked
under a cover.  It's tight enough living with one bike an the RV living
room.  Two would be impossible.  But, being outside will make it even more
convenient for a grab and go ride.  The Sam was a recommendation when I
first got my Homer, being similar to the Homer, but lower cost.  I have the
front and rear racks on the Homer, but have not really used it for a
grocery bike yet.  That seems an appealing secondary use of a +1.  I could
move my racks to the +1 and get a Compass CP-1 front rack to hold the dyno
light on the Homer along with a front bag and use a KlickFix mount saddle
bag if needed.  I can use my weather resistant Cambrium saddle for the +1
and get a nice Berthoud for the Homer.  That keeps my Homer as the gofast
bike and for any longer rides I can work up to.  The +1 can be non-gofast,
shorter ride focused.  That would probably exclude the Roadin.  Though it
could certainly do this, I'm not sure it's best for it.  I don't see a Sam
available in my size, unless I wait for used or a new order to come in.
So, if I want it sooner, I'm probably down to either the silver 55 Joe
Appaloosa (maybe loaded, not touring use; yay, different color) or the
Frank Jones Sr.  Unfortunately, the 55 FJSr is gone, but the 57 still fits,
though I'm tight to the low end of the PBH range.

Tim

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[RBW] Homer +1 discussion

[Tim Butterfield]

I started this in another thread specific to a Homer vs Roadini comparison,
but wanted to open the discussion to include other bikes.  That $10 gift
card could get very expensive.

Fitting another bike in our environment is a stretch and I don't really
need another bike at all, especially one that could be close stripped to my
Homer if I stripped it, which the Roadini might be.  I wanted a one bike to
do it all when I got the Homer.  It fits that role well.  However, there is
one role during this time of the year, which it does not fit.  It wouldn't
be today, though, because it snowed and I'm not as tough as Patrick.

Here in the PNW, the weather is mostly wet and often relatively cold from
late fall through early spring.  During that period, my Homer is stuck
inside on a trainer with a trainer tire mounted.  Then, along comes some
weather that is just absolutely gorgeous for a day or two.  I could take
the Homer off the trainer, swap tires, go for an hour ride or so, swap
tires again, and put it back on the trainer.  Or, I could just get on the
other bike and go.  The percentage of ride vs 'renching is certainly better
with having a second bike.  That means I'd get to do it more often last
minute when time frees up.  That's one thing I like about having the Homer
on the trainer.  If I feel like it and have a bit of time available, I can
just hop on it and spin, no wrenching needed.  I guess if I practiced
swapping the tire more than twice a year, I might get the time down where
the ratio to swap and swap back isn't too large compared with the
relatively brief ride time.

So, I'm not looking for a bike for any specific role other than available
to ride immediately.  Though it can fit many roles, when on the trainer
stand, that is one role my Homer does not fit.  For this role, almost any
+1 might suffice.  A quick to access local ride would be either something
like a ten mile mostly flat loop or parts of it or a ride into/through town
and back, also mostly flat.

I was originally thinking of maybe the stripped Roadini.  But, it has been
pointed out a stripped Roadini is similar to a stripped Homer.  Maybe I
need something just a bit different in case I want to trade off in summer
also.

Hmmm.  I never really thought of this, but just saw the Frank Jones Sr in
55/57 available, both of which would fit my 83.8 PBH, though both are only
in the same Homer blue I have now.  I haven't ridden single speed since I
was a kid.  Not having done it for so long, I'm not really sure I see the
appeal of it very well, but I'm open to learning.  I'm also not sure if my
out of shape-ness would work well on a single speed, though the mostly flat
terrain immediately surrounding me is good for it.   The FJSr frame is more
expensive than the Roadini, but I'd likely save some in component costs.

Any comments on this or other bikes I should consider as a +1 to a stripped
or not Homer would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini vs Homer

[Tim Butterfield]

Ah, Patrick, you're the voice of reason.  Thanks for that.  As for the rest
of you enablers, thanks for that, too.  :)

Thanks, Ed, for the reminder of the Roadini vs Sam thread.  I'll look it up
and get that angle.  And, I'll start another thread for a more general +1
discussion.

Tim


On Wed, Feb 21, 2018 at 6:59 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Great excuse, but mininimal practicable difference for a non-racer is my
> guess based on experience with my similar yet wider apart hunqa v QB. If
> you need an excuse, you have it! Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] Roadini vs Homer

[Tim Butterfield]

It's a good thing that 54 Roadini demo is blue instead of grilver or I
would probably have it in addition to the Hail Mary.  Thankfully, I don't
need another blue as I already have my Homer.  I don't really have room for
another bike in my RV either.  But, if it were grilver, I might have to
find a way; good thing it's not.

I really should not be having this conversation, but thinking of this has
me wondering something.  My Homer is decked out with dyno, lights, fenders,
and racks.  With a stripped Roadini, how much different might that be in
the riding/handling department given my current 220+ pound weight?

Thanks.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Riv request for store credits

[Tim Butterfield]

Did it.  Got tempted by the blue 54 Roadini demo; manage to resist it.
That's another thread, though.

Tim

On Wed, Feb 21, 2018 at 4:38 PM, Chris Birkenmaier 
wrote:

> I was just in Ri s website and saw their request for their loyal
> supporters to purchase store credits of $10 units to help through a cash
> flow jump. I promptly purchased some credits. I love this company and am
> happy to help them out. Goodness knows I always find things I want to buy
> from them. While I was doing this I also got an email with the request.
> I’d encourage you all to read your email or visit their website for
> complete details
> Chris
> Who is getting a Roadini to add to the collection
>
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Re: [RBW] Are you using your real name on here?

[Tim Butterfield]

I use my real name everywhere.  I'm not usually in situations where I might
become a target and feel no need to hide who I am behind what I am saying.
This is me.  Take it or leave it.  :)

Tim

On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 2:52 PM, lum gim fong  wrote:

> Yea or nay?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: “The Man” Club

[Tim Butterfield]

Here is a shortcut if you had to google that like I did.
http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#9

Nice going, Patrick.

Tim (who has a lighted and fendered AHH mounted on a trainer stand - sad)

On Mon, Jan 22, 2018 at 1:09 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Also known as: Rule 9.
>
> Bill who-contemplated-Rule-9-at-some-length-this-morning Lindsay
> El Cerrito, Ca
>
> On Monday, January 22, 2018 at 10:10:14 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> In which a long existent club is recognized, the club for men who do
>> things. Or something. Grin.
>> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/the-man-club
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.CredoFamily.org
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Obenauf's on shoes?

[Tim Butterfield]

I did similar, setting them near a heat source to improve absorption and
also repeating application until it would absorb no more.  I found that if
you get really good absorption, some of that will later be squeezed out of
the leather by flexing resulting in an increase of wax showing on the
surface of those areas.  It's not an issue and easily wiped off though a
bit unsightly until then.  I have had this with both SnoSeal and Obenauf's.

One thing that may help with seams is to brush the boots after the
application has dried a bit.  Similar to brushing a polish on dress shoes,
brushing after a sealer application has dried can remove a bit left on the
surface and in seams.  This will not eliminate the above, though.

Tim

On Fri, Jan 5, 2018 at 8:47 AM, Andy C.  wrote:

> I agree that Obenauf's works great on hiking boots and the like. On my
> regular shoes, however, it proved to be a little trickier. Because of the
> seams on the shoes, it was difficult to wipe off all of the residue that
> wasn't fully absorbed by the leather. Though the shoes didn't feel sticky,
> they were soon had areas covered in a fine layer of dust and other small
> particles. I did heat up the shoes a bit with a hair dryer to promote
> absorption but still had the problem a few times. Never had this problem
> with lighter weight treatments. I could just be doing a really bad job
> and/or we might just not notice this "ankle dandruff" on our work shoes.
> --AC
>
> On Friday, January 5, 2018 at 8:07:58 AM UTC-8, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>>
>> I use Obenauf's on my work boots, too. Put some on my locally made
>> leather wallet, too. I would stick to a good shoe polish for dress shoes,
>> though. The polish will protect against a stroll in the rain down a city
>> sidewalk. Anything more and you might want to get a pair of galoshes. Good
>> gosh, a good day, when you can get in the word "galoshes!"
>>
>> On Friday, January 5, 2018 at 6:57:00 AM UTC-8, lum gim fong wrote:
>>>
>>> Does it make leather dress shoes look nice or is it a more utilitarian
>>> finish to it?
>>>
>>> Interested because it is a one time application for weatherproofing.
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Bike Trainer Thoughts

[Tim Butterfield]

My AHH is currently mounted on a Wahoo Fitness Kickr Snap trainer for the
winter.  This is with racks, fenders, and all including the small
saddlesack. I only swapped my rear Barlow Pass EL for a 32mm Schwalbe
Indoor trainer tire and a quick release skewer for my rear Pitlock.  There
is a front wheel support to level the bike a bit. This is combined with
VeloReality software to provide something to look at right in front of the
bike and to control the resistance of the trainer.  I'm currently riding
around Lake Como in Italy and have some other rides to choose from also.
For even more data than I really need, I also have a Wahoo TickrX HR
monitor and Blue SC speed cadence sensor feeding into both my iPhone Wahoo
Fitness app and a Garmin Edge.  For reviews of trainers and other exercise
gadgets, check out the DC Rainmaker site. https://www.dcrainmaker.com/

Tim


On Sat, Dec 30, 2017 at 11:29 AM, Jonathan D.  wrote:

> I’m not sure if this is off-topic. I would use the trainer with a
> Rivendell bike. I’m considering getting a bike trainer and wondering if
> anybody has experience with one. I have a kid and sometimes it’s hard to
> really go out for a long ride. Sometimes might be generous. Besides my bike
> commute it is hard to ever go out riding. I also like the idea of a Zwift
> compatible trainer. I also worry this will be an item that just sits in the
> basement and I never use. But mostly for the winter when my kid doesn’t
> enjoy biking in the rain.
>

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Re: [RBW] "Winter" clothing help

[Tim Butterfield]

Thanks for confirming, Steve.

Now I just need to determine which to get for my use in the PNW where it is
cool and often wet in fall, winter, and spring.  A read back through prior
threads may help me there.  My use will be general in addition to on the
bicycle.  A Glencoe DV may be the most versatile and likely most
comfortable during winter, though a Talorc HV may be more comfortable in
fall and spring.  The Braemer HV is tempting also.  It certainly looks
nice, but a full zip jacket is likely more versatile.  Hmmm.  It's a good
thing I'm not in a hurry. :)

Tim

On Sat, Dec 9, 2017 at 6:20 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> From what I can see on their web site, Hilltrek garments are all made of
> Ventile.  I have a Westwinds Ventile jacket. Ventile is tightly woven
> cotton.  It's got a hard, smooth finish that isn't either nappy or sticky.
>

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Re: [RBW] "Winter" clothing help

[Tim Butterfield]

On Fri, Dec 8, 2017 at 8:13 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Tim, if you have an unwaxed cotton canvas jacket or tarp or jeans or woven
> shirt, that’s how it will respond to pet fur. Essentially a non-issue.


So, no nap to catch the fur.  That's good to know.

Thanks.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] "Winter" clothing help

[Tim Butterfield]

I am thinking of getting my first Hilltrek garment.  I am not sure which
one yet, but I have a question about the fabrics.  Since they are not
inexpensive, I would like to find out about something before making the
investment.  It relates to how they react to pet fur.

Here are how some of the fabrics I have experience with have reacted to the
fur of our white German Shepherd Dog  Polortec synthetics seem to be a
magnet.  Fabric collects fur and it gets embedded in it easily.  A long
session with a lint roller or tape is needed to remove it all.  The Filsen
waxed cotton tin cloth has a slight nap that seems to easily trap fur and
the wax acts as a slight adhesive to help it adhere.  Removing the pet fur
is not as bad as Polartec, but it isn't really easy either.  It adheres
slightly to tightly woven wools, but is fairly easily removed with a lint
roller with the occasional piece needing to be pulled out.  The Filsen
waxed cotton shelter cloth does not have the nap of the tin cloth and fur
is more easily brushed off.  The most resistant to pet fur seem to be
leather, nylon, and waterproof breathable synthetic membrane fabrics where
fur just falls off.

So, how do the Hilltrek fabrics react to pet fur?  Does it get embedded
like a Polartec, stick to it like tin cloth, or fall off like with leather
or a membrane synthetic?

Thanks.

Tim




On Tue, Dec 5, 2017 at 10:56 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Fred,
>
> 40 and dry, easy. 40 and wet, challenging. It’s all about moisture
> management. In Colorado, when we have thunderstorms in spring, summer, and
> fall, temps easly are in the 40’s or 50’s with high humidity (90+%).
>
> The key to either begins with the baselayer. Fishnet longjohns.
> https://www.brynjeusa.com
>
> Depending on how warmblooded you are, on a dry day you may only need a
> thin shirt over that (I wear a medium weight cotton flannel shirt over mind
> for freezing up to 50’s.) No other layer required.
>
> When wet, you have a choice. Dither and play with the synthetics trying to
> make them work and spending a lot discovering they do not, or pony up once
> for Ventile and/or Cotton Anlalogy from Hilltrek and be done with it.
> http://hilltrek.co.uk When wind or wet or both get added to the mix, it’s
> spot on what to wear as your outer layer. Breathes almost like a t-shirt,
> keeps wet out, so you get wet neither from your sweat nor from
> rain/sleet/snow.
>
> Gloves, get the boiled wool gloves from here:
> https://www.sweaterchalet.com/dachstein-woolwear-boiled-
> wool-sweaters-mitts-socks-caps-gloves/ and you’ll be fine down to 25 or
> so. They have a leather palmed one if you like. I just wear their mitten,
> no leather palm. Works great (15˚F on today’s ride, no overmit needed).
> Also, their 3-ply hat is brilliant for those conditions (4-ply is overkill
> by far). Socks too, but you may need larger shoes or you’ll just cut off
> your blood supply to your feet and be VERY cold and think the socks don’t
> work.) Or the hood on the jacket may be all you need.
>
> Not light weight, but if you have to stop riding unexpectadly, you’ll be
> comfortable and warm. Play with the layering, how heavy an insulative layer
> (I switch to a sweater below 20˚F) and when to wear/not wear your ventile
> shell and you’re golden and toasty.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[Tim Butterfield]

On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 12:07 PM, LBleriot  wrote:

> ... then takes some of the profit and "improves" the beautiful Silver
> shifters by making the groove diameter a little larger!
>

I wonder if this would work if, instead of having a one piece handle and
cylinder/groove, the groove is on a separate piece that is fit to the
handle.  That groove piece could then have different groove diameters to
change shift ratios.  Just like you can buy only the stop washers now, you
could buy the desired groove size if not standard.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] PSA: Craigslist FS Email Notifications

[Tim Butterfield]

Craigslist has this built in.  If you have an account on CL, you can search
for specific terms in a category and then save that search.  The saved
searches will show on the Searches tab on your account page.  Once saved,
you can turn on email alerts for that saved search.

https://www.craigslist.org/about/saved_searches_and_alerts

Tim


On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 7:29 PM, sameness  wrote:

> Maybe this is old news, but I just got hip to it today:
>
> https://ifttt.com/applets/CYpiZcew-get-an-email-whenever-a-new-craigslist-
> post-matches-your-search
>
> Standard disclaimer: No affiliation, caveat lector, etc.
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> Los Angeles, CA USA
>

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Re: [RBW] Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[Tim Butterfield]

My Barlow Pass EL are fairly easy changing on the Velocity made Riv
standard wheelset on my AHH.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] OT: know anything about motorcycles?

[Tim Butterfield]

The GPS once routed my Audi S4 across a grown over cow pasture in the
Missouri Ozarks.  It did it just fine, just needed to go slower.  A dual
sport bike would have had no trouble either.  Adjust speed as needed.  I'm
not sure you need an older bike.  A V-Strom 650 of 2009 or newer might be
obtainable within your budget, though initial ask may be around $4,000.
For comparison, the base price for a 2017 model would be around $8,800.
That may let a five year old model approach your budget.  It handles a mix
of paved and gravel roads fairly well and you can add some hard bags for
carrying more stuff.

Tim



On Fri, Sep 29, 2017 at 8:10 PM, drew  wrote:

> Off road means dirt and gravel roads mostly. Some of the roads haven't
> been graded in a decade or so and are more trail like than road like but
> those aren't the norm.
>
> This is great, keep them coming
>
>

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Re: [RBW] OT: know anything about motorcycles?

[Tim Butterfield]

Just to clarify, by 'off pavement,' do you mean just dirt roads or narrow
trails also?  If you could find one, a Kawasaki KLR650 could likely handle
much of this.  But, as with anything, you will have trade offs based on
focus.  The more trail capable, the less road comfortable.  Think of knobby
tires for off road vs smooth tires for road riding.  There is also weight
to factor in.  A lighter bike may be more nimble off road, but is more
easily affected by winds at higher speeds on road.  A heavier bike would
handle higher speeds on the road better, but then not be as nimble off
road.  There are some that can do both decently, like a BMW R1200GS, but
they are likely out of your budget.  Even with this, the weight can be a
restriction off road.  A Suzuki V-Strom 650 can handle paved or dirt roads,
but would struggle on trails.  A Suzuki DR-Z400 would handle trails better,
but would be less comfortable at highway speeds.

Another factor to consider is saddle height.  They are not as adjustable as
a bicycle.  The larger, more off road capable bikes are often taller.  The
KLR 650 has a seat height of about 35 inches.  Do you weigh enough and/or
have an inseam long enough to put your feet down when stopped, especially
on cross-sloped terrain?  You might be able to slip off one side or the
other to put a toe down, but it would not be as secure as having both feet
flat on the ground.

I started riding motorcycles with the BMW F650, which would be similar to
the V-Strom 650.  It is considered a dual-sport and has a decent blend of
ability between paved and dirt riding.  I didn't ride it in the dirt and
did ride it some on the interstate.  That let to me 'upgrading' to a BMW
R1100RT and later to the BMW K1200RS.

Does your location require a motorcycle endorsement on your driver's
license?  If so, do you already have this?  If not, you may want to look at
taking a course.  The motorcycle safety foundation has courses throughout
the US.

If I were personally looking for an off/off road bike that didn't need to
handle trails, I would probably look at the V-Strom 650 or a BMW F650.
Other brands have similar dual-sport models in various sizes.  Here is a
list of some used dual sport bikes to help get you started.
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/blog/2010/09/14/top-5-dual-sport-motorcycles/

Hope this helps.

Tim



On Fri, Sep 29, 2017 at 6:06 PM, drew  wrote:

> So a while back, i bought some property in the mountains and it came with
> 2 dirt bikes. They aren't street legal, or attractive, or very high end.
> We've spent the last year semi renovating the cabin, clearing the land of
> years of brush pile up, but we've finally gotten to the point where we are
> starting to try to go through some of the stuff in the garage. I have no
> use for 2 non street worthy, ugly yamahas, but after a little research, it
> looks like i can get about 3500$ for the pair.
>
> after thinking about it, i think a (single) motorcycle would be useful and
> fun to have up there. im trying to figure out what that type of thing would
> be and, since ive never had any interest in motorcycles, the internet info
> is overwhelming. i know some of you guys ride all types of bikes, so im
> hoping to get some direction.
>
> here is what i'm thinking
> -3500$ or less
> -good on roads and dirt roads. not interested in jumps or anything crazy,
> but it will have to be able to go off pavement comfortably
> -reliable/durable/parts easily found and cheap.
> -rivish... weird to say, but if anyone, you'll know what i mean. uniquely
> pretty, versatile, not overly mechanically complex, able to carry a small
> load and do more than one thing well
>
> So far i've been looking at late 70's/early 80's off road yamahas and
> hondas.
>
> Anyone have any online resources, makes/models/years that would work,
> thoughts, ideas etc.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wildlife; rain; load

[Tim Butterfield]

Around here, I still have mein heron.

Tim

On Fri, Sep 29, 2017 at 4:01 PM, Bill M.  wrote:

> And it didn't come back, no re-egrets.
>
> Bill
> Stockton, CA
>
> On Friday, September 29, 2017 at 1:31:24 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> My greatest egret was the one that flew away!
>>
>> With grinning abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[Tim Butterfield]

That post showed the images just fine.  Thanks.

Tim

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 11:29 AM, A CT Cyclist  wrote:

>
> 
> 
>
>
> 
> 
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that
> threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a
> recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit
> absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes
> operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no
> room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the
> bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you
> cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd
> picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see
> in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the
> brakes operation.
> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the
> brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be
> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 1:14:16 PM UTC-4, Lee Legrand wrote:
>>
>> I do not know about you guys but the pictures do not even show up in my
>> email, except the nut and bolt.
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:05 PM, A CT Cyclist  wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that
>>> threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a
>>> recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit
>>> absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes
>>> operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no
>>> room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the
>>> bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you
>>> cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd
>>> picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see
>>> in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the
>>> brakes operation.
>>> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with
>>> the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be
>>> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 6:46:07 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:

 Your photos did not load properly, please repost them.

 On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the
> desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.
>
> Since a picture is worth a thousand words .
>
> This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads
> directly into it, no nuts involved.
>
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in.
> The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere
> with the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see
> that there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also
> note that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit
> wider so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated 
> in

Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[Tim Butterfield]

Same here.  Of the original set of images from CT, only the last image of
the bolt kit is visible.  On the repost, none of the images are visible.
The others and latest appear to me as just a grey circle with a white dash
through it, like this:
[image: Inline image 1]

Tim

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 10:14 AM, Lee Legrand  wrote:

> I do not know about you guys but the pictures do not even show up in my
> email, except the nut and bolt.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:05 PM, A CT Cyclist  wrote:
>
>>
>> The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that
>> threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a
>> recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit
>> absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes
>> operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no
>> room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the
>> bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you
>> cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd
>> picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see
>> in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the
>> brakes operation.
>> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with
>> the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be
>> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 6:46:07 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>>>
>>> Your photos did not load properly, please repost them.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:

 I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the
 desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.

 Since a picture is worth a thousand words .

 This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads
 directly into it, no nuts involved.


 

 

 

 This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in.
 The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere
 with the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see
 that there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also
 note that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit
 wider so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in
 the picture below.


 

 Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see in
 the photo below that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the brakes
 operation.



 Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with
 the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be
 threaded into it for fender mounting.


 The only solution I can see is to use something like the extra long
 bolt kit for converting the Racer brake to a non-recessed brake.  At
 $14 plus shipping from CA to CT I think it would be cheaper to go the
 local hardware store.





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Re: [RBW] Favorite Platform Pedals

[Tim Butterfield]

The pedals were one thing I kept when selling my prior bike to get my
Homer.  They are the RaceFace Aeffect pedals.  They are similar to the VP
Thin Gripster, though priced a bit higher.  I had picked them up locally at
an REI store.  They work great with the sandals I like wearing.  A possible
advantage over the Thin Gripsters may be the bottom loading pins where dirt
buildup from footwear is less likely to hinder future pin removal.  There
is also a grease port for on-bike maintenance.

https://www.raceface.com/products/details/aeffect-pedals

Tim

On Sun, Sep 3, 2017 at 8:31 AM, A CT Cyclist  wrote:

> Just like the subject implies, what are your favorite platform pedals and
> why?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Velo Orange Rondonneur 61cm

[Tim Butterfield]

I had a VO Rando when I lived in Illinois.  It wasn't a Riv, but was a very
nice bike.  Mine had Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x32 with Honjo fenders.
The front rack mount had to be bent over the brakes and clearance was a bit
tight, but it did fit together and seemed to work well for the paved riding
I was doing then.



Tim

On Tue, Aug 1, 2017 at 1:49 PM, 'Dave Small' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I have one of these---2, actually---set up similarly to yours, so I'm not
> in the market but wanted to tell anyone considering it that it's a great
> model.  The ride is smooth and really comfortable, just all-around
> terrific.  In my opinion the only drawback is that max tire width with
> fenders is 28mm (32mm without, if I remember correctly), but the rest of
> the bike's qualities make up for it.
>
> Donald, your price seems quite fair given the accoutrements.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Petersen Interview up on the Gravel & Grind website

[Tim Butterfield]

I'm not sure that test is valid.  I am unable to ride my AHH for more than
a few seconds without my hands on the bars.  But, I suspect that is more me
being unbalanced than the bike.

Tim

On Fri, Jul 28, 2017 at 12:59 PM, Brewster Fong  wrote:

>
>
> On Friday, July 28, 2017 at 12:16:47 PM UTC-7, Jay Connolly wrote:
>>
>> I was intrigued by this number, as well. I heard an interview with Grant
>> somewhere in which he expressed reluctance to excite the hostile, loveless
>> bike-frame geometers of the interwebs, and I don't blame him. I've owned 15
>> or more steel bikes in the last 20 years, and only on the Rivs have I been
>> able, effortlessly, to ride no hands. I take that as a sign of balance and
>> stability in the bike. I could do it briefly on various other frames, but
>> nothing like the Rivs. Maybe it's meaningless, but I find it both useful
>> and pleasant on long rides.
>
>
> That's interesting.  Is riding no handed "the test" to show that a bike is
> balanced and stabled?  I bought all of my bikes used and have been able to
> ride no handed on each of them - 90s Calfee tetra, 90s Litespeed Classic
> and my newest bike - 2013 Trek Madone. I run 700x25 tires@80psi on all of
> them.  The Trek has the shortest wheelbase and it took some time to get use
> to the handling as it is quicker than the other two bikes. Otherwise, it is
> fine.
>
> Good to know that my bikes are all balance and stable!
>
> Good Luck!
>

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Re: [RBW] Dog trailer for bikes - any experience or recommendations?

[Tim Butterfield]

Depending on how far you are going and in what conditions, maybe you can
ride slow and let the dog run with you.  We had an Alaskan Malamute show
dog and that is how the breeder kept her in top condition for showing, by
having her run tethered to the bike.  Of course, that was up north in WI
and certainly a bit more rural that SF.

Tim

On Thu, Jul 20, 2017 at 8:26 AM, gordo  wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> We just adopted the sweetest rescue dog and I am trying to figure out a
> way to transport him to work with me via bike.  He's a 50 lb shepherd mutt
> who does not spook easily - hopefully he will learn to enjoy traveling by
> trailer.
>
> Any recommendations for models to consider or avoid?
>
> Riv content: I will be attaching the trailer to my Toyo-built Atlantis
> that is currently in commuter mode with MAP/Ahearne bars.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric
> SF, CA
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: In praise of Spur-cycles bells

[Tim Butterfield]

Ash,
There is always the stem mount position; no bar space required.
[image: Inline image 2]
Tim


On Tue, Jul 18, 2017 at 7:47 AM, Ash [who works to bike] 
wrote:

>
> While everyone else here is trying to find the best sounding bell, I'm on
> a different kind of journey.  I keep looking for bells that don't eat up
> the precious real estate on the handlebar (I like to have multiple hand
> positions feasible).
>
> First I tried Knog Oi.  I like it so much in theory.  Over many many uses
> on shared bike path, the large version that's on my road bike might have
> been ever heard bike one or two people.  No such like with the small
> version that goes on 22.2mm bar.  Sometimes I can't hear it myself.
> Recently I ran into Incredibell bar end bells at an LBS.  Used it for a few
> rides so far.  I think it sounds just good enough.  Build quality seems
> fine as well.  Picture attached.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Request for a safety review

[Tim Butterfield]

And, in case you didn't notice in the pic I posted, I mounted the mini pump
upside down as the taper of the handle fit better in front of the fender.

Tim

On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 11:14 AM, Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> That was a road morph mini pump and it included the mount pads.  It was
> similar to this one:
> https://www.topeak.com/global/en/products/mini-pumps/246-road-morph--g
>
> Tim
>
> On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 11:08 AM, Ash [who works to bike] <
> ashw...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the help everyone!
>>
>> Orc, Joe and Deacon, understood the safety consideration here.
>>
>> Garth, you win the prize again!  Who woulda thought it goes underneath
>> the bottle cage :)
>>
>> That's where I ended up mounting it for yesterday's trip.
>>
>> However, like others suggested, it looks like a clutter.  Perhaps it
>> should go inside the tool bag.  Combination of not having a good bag and my
>> tendency to always overpack, I can't find space for the pump in there.
>> Having it mounted on the frame is sort of peace of mind (no risk of somehow
>> leaving it  behind)
>>
>>
>> Tim,  did you acquire those frame mount clamps separately or those came
>> with your pump.  My crappy pump came with only cage boss mounts.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, 17 July 2017 10:27:30 UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>>
>>> On  a Velo Orange Rando, I once mounted a mini pump behind the seat post
>>> like this:
>>> [image: Inline image 1]
>>> Not sure if that is possible here, but it might be another option to
>>> consider.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 1:13 PM, LLM <mccr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Like this!
>>>>
>>>> <http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/923/E57aZs.jpg>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sunday, July 16, 2017 at 2:43:45 AM UTC-4, Ash [who works to bike]
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Prepping my Appa for a long ride, I mounted the pump in the fork as
>>>>> shown in pictures.   Any safety concerns with this?
>>>>>
>>>>> It came with a mount that fits bottle cage bosses.  All three sets of
>>>>> them are taken.  So I was looking for place to bolt it in. There was this
>>>>> option and then the midway rack braze-ons on seat stays.
>>>>>
>>>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Request for a safety review

[Tim Butterfield]

That was a road morph mini pump and it included the mount pads.  It was
similar to this one:
https://www.topeak.com/global/en/products/mini-pumps/246-road-morph--g

Tim

On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 11:08 AM, Ash [who works to bike] <ashw...@gmail.com
> wrote:

> Thanks for the help everyone!
>
> Orc, Joe and Deacon, understood the safety consideration here.
>
> Garth, you win the prize again!  Who woulda thought it goes underneath the
> bottle cage :)
>
> That's where I ended up mounting it for yesterday's trip.
>
> However, like others suggested, it looks like a clutter.  Perhaps it
> should go inside the tool bag.  Combination of not having a good bag and my
> tendency to always overpack, I can't find space for the pump in there.
> Having it mounted on the frame is sort of peace of mind (no risk of somehow
> leaving it  behind)
>
>
> Tim,  did you acquire those frame mount clamps separately or those came
> with your pump.  My crappy pump came with only cage boss mounts.
>
>
>
> On Monday, 17 July 2017 10:27:30 UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> On  a Velo Orange Rando, I once mounted a mini pump behind the seat post
>> like this:
>> [image: Inline image 1]
>> Not sure if that is possible here, but it might be another option to
>> consider.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 1:13 PM, LLM <mccr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Like this!
>>>
>>> <http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/923/E57aZs.jpg>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 16, 2017 at 2:43:45 AM UTC-4, Ash [who works to bike]
>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Prepping my Appa for a long ride, I mounted the pump in the fork as
>>>> shown in pictures.   Any safety concerns with this?
>>>>
>>>> It came with a mount that fits bottle cage bosses.  All three sets of
>>>> them are taken.  So I was looking for place to bolt it in. There was this
>>>> option and then the midway rack braze-ons on seat stays.
>>>>
>>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sag Wagon Camping Test Run

[Tim Butterfield]

Patrick,

That sounds fun.  Even modern data can be a bit off.  We once took a drive
in our low slung 2004 Audi S4 to our farm in the Missouri Ozarks.  I set
the nearly new Garmin GPS to keep us off of the interstates and it surely
did that.  It routed us on one road that dwindled to gravel and then to
barely visible tracks in the overgrown grass of the cow pasture we crossed
before it turned back into gravel on the other side.  I'm not sure I would
really classify what we crossed as a 'road' in the normal sense of the
word.  There might have once been a road there, but it disappeared long
before the GPS used the data.  Still, it was a fun and interesting
diversion.  My AHH would be a better candidate for traversing it than the
S4.

Even local knowledge can be less than helpful when it depends on
familiarity.  For example, after just moving to a new area in NC, my wife
once received instructions, "Go up til you get to the Brown's farm and take
a right" like she was supposed to know where that was.  :)

Tim

On Wed, Jul 12, 2017 at 3:58 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> The road did not exist. Here's the response from the map company... not
> very reassuring, but I'm not sure what might be more reassuring. Sardonic
> grin. Rather reminds me of the first backbacking trip my wife and I took in
> the San Juans. Trail vanished an hour in to the second day. That should
> have been our clue to turn around. Instead I taught her how to triangulate
> via map and compass and we did great until the third day when we couldn't
> find the lake we were heading to. Anywhere. Figuring we were lost, we
> worked our way out to the Million Dollar Highway (we were going from Ouray
> to Silverton). We learned we were in the right spot, but the lake had been
> mined under. Checked the date on your USGS maps. 1954. This was 1990. Oops.
> That's when we learned to ask locally. For all the good it did with the
> vanished road. Sardonic grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
> ~~~
> It looks like we are wrong in showing FR254 connecting to County Rd 59.
> Attached are screenshots from our atlas, Google Maps, Google Streetview,
> and the MVUM (motor vehicle use map) for South Park Ranger District of
> Pike-San Isabel NF.
>
> You can see that our atlas shows what is seen in Streetview as the through
> 4WD rd. This is wrong as you found out.
>
> The MVUM map, published this year by the Forest Service is what we should
> show, and will show in the next edition of the CO atlas. FR 254 is
> accessible from FR890 and ends well short of County Rd 59. Here is a link
> to this free map via the Pike-San Isabel NF website.
> https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd544976.pdf
>
> Maybe this road did connect at one time, the data we used for CO certainly
> says so.
>
> I hope this helps clear up the discrepancy.
> ~~~
>
> On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 5:13:59 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> In which we discover families love the flexibility of riding some, all,
>> or none of a given days ride, maps and signs don’t always agree and who’s
>> to say who’s right, roads on the map may or may not exist in reality, and
>> aspen shade on a hot day of climbing is delightful.
>> http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/test-run-for-sag-wagon-camping
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.CredoFamily.org
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] PSA: AHH in tuscon ($1500)

[Tim Butterfield]

It's certainly a possible.  That size PBH is approximately 1/4" less than
mine (0.275591").  If I measure my AHH seat post vertically instead of at
the seat tube angle, that would put the saddle rails almost 3" above the
top of the seat post bolt. The top of my top tube in front of the saddle is
about 32 1/4" above my carpet.  The current geometry chart shows a size 57
AHH having a 82cm standover height, which is 32.2835".   It fits an 83 pbh
at either a 56 or 57.  So, it could be either a 57 with less seat post
showing as just mentioned or a 56, if you find one, with more showing.
Maybe the data can help you focus the fit probability a little further.

Tim

On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 1:17 PM, Davey Two Shoes 
wrote:

> My pbh is 83.1.  I have short legs and long torso. What do you think guys?
> New bike day?
>
>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] PSA: AHH in tuscon ($1500)

[Tim Butterfield]

I'm 5'10" also and was sized at a 57 when I ordered my AHH last year.  It
fits me well.  My PBH is 83.8 and I have just a bit less than a fist full
of seat post showing.

Tim

On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 12:59 PM, drew  wrote:

> You sure it won't fit? I'm 5'10 and that would be my preferred size.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Need new shoes

[Tim Butterfield]

There is a huge difference between barefoot and any kind of shoe, even the
"barefoot" kind.  Some of the more minimalist shoes might let the foot move
more fully, but they are still a restriction.  It is similar to moving from
a cast to an ace bandage to a surgical glove.  The latter may be the most
minimal, but it is still not as sensitive as bare skin.  It also takes a
not insignificant amount of time to build up a foot that is used to
(atrophied from) being in a cast.

As for a bike shoe, I like a sandal when weather allows it.  Currently,
that is a Luna Sandal.  I consider it as 'portable ground' with only a bare
foot on top of it.  But, it protects me from the spikes of my pedals and
from scraping my feet on the ground when coming to a stop.

Tim


On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 4:44 PM, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> Thanks for the advice Deacon.  I tried the "barefoot" shoe thing both for
> walking and cycling a few years ago without much success.  I went to a new
> podiatrist who told me that my problem was that I was not fat enough!
> While I was still reveling in ecstasy he added that he was only referring
> to my feet!  I had never focused on it before but suddenly realized that my
> feet have virtually no fat to cushion them and he recommend some well
> supported NB shoes, which have served me well.  I also do well in Keens,
> and have both the Austins & an older commuter bike sandal, and until
> recently the Austin Pedlars.
>
> Michael
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike computer

[Tim Butterfield]

On Fri, Jun 9, 2017 at 1:26 PM, Chris Birkenmaier 
wrote:

> I like having a computer on my bike but I use it for my own enjoyment and
> information and don't let it rule me or the ride.
>

Same here.  I don't use it for governing what I do on the ride either.  I
do like having the data for post-ride analysis and comparison with prior
rides.  It is convenient having them mounted where I can see them, but they
could almost be in a pouch or pocket.  That's an _almost_ because the Edge
820 is also the readout for the Varia rear view radar notification that
alerts me to vehicles approaching from behind.  And, for the iPhone, it is
easier to determine when I can ignore a text or call if I know who it is
before I stop to answer.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Bike computer

[Tim Butterfield]

>  Both ANT+ and BT are fed simultaneously by the Wahoo Fitness Blue SC
sensor and a TickrX HR strap.

Just to clarify in case anyone wants this feature.  The prior version of
BlueSC did not do this, though the current version does.  So, make sure to
check the version of the device.

Tim

On Fri, Jun 9, 2017 at 11:14 AM, Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have a pair of devices on my AHH.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/29444653562/in/
> album-72157672136967320/
>
> These are a Garmin Edge 820 and an iPhone 5S running the Wahoo Fitness app
> (on a Quad Lock mount).  Both ANT+ and BT are fed simultaneously by the
> Wahoo Fitness Blue SC sensor and a TickrX HR strap.  I went this way as I
> also use the TickrX and Wahoo iOS app off of the bike.
>
> Tim
>
> On Fri, Jun 9, 2017 at 10:55 AM, Broccoli Cog <tba...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> What do you use for a bike computer if anything at all? In my past
>> cycling life I wouldn't think about leaving the house without my Garmin and
>> a HRM. These days more often than not I simply don't bother with the
>> Garmin. I must say it's pretty liberating. I've contemplated going back to
>> a plain old bike computer that is simple to use and just keeps track of
>> time and distance. Since I no longer have a desire to upload my rides
>> online I wonder if a simple computer is best or maybe I don't even need one
>> at all? Curious to know what other list members are doing.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike computer

[Tim Butterfield]

I have a pair of devices on my AHH.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/29444653562/in/album-72157672136967320/

These are a Garmin Edge 820 and an iPhone 5S running the Wahoo Fitness app
(on a Quad Lock mount).  Both ANT+ and BT are fed simultaneously by the
Wahoo Fitness Blue SC sensor and a TickrX HR strap.  I went this way as I
also use the TickrX and Wahoo iOS app off of the bike.

Tim

On Fri, Jun 9, 2017 at 10:55 AM, Broccoli Cog  wrote:

> What do you use for a bike computer if anything at all? In my past cycling
> life I wouldn't think about leaving the house without my Garmin and a HRM.
> These days more often than not I simply don't bother with the Garmin. I
> must say it's pretty liberating. I've contemplated going back to a plain
> old bike computer that is simple to use and just keeps track of time and
> distance. Since I no longer have a desire to upload my rides online I
> wonder if a simple computer is best or maybe I don't even need one at all?
> Curious to know what other list members are doing.
>

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Re: [RBW] Dyno wiring

[Tim Butterfield]

With it mounted as it is and the bike on the trainer stand, holding the
black band on the light and moving just the light moves the handlebars of
the bike.  By 'lever arm', are you referring to the metal bracket
connecting the light to the rack support or the combination of pivots
external to the light itself?

I saw the pictures on Peter's site showing the light mounted at the first
pivot point.  I agree eliminating pivots would provide the most stability;
just need to source the hex drive screw that is used.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/images/products/Lights/iq-x_weigle1.jpg

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/images/products/Lights/iq-x_weigle2.jpg

Tim

On Fri, May 19, 2017 at 5:25 AM, Tim Gavin <tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com>
wrote:

> Right side or left side is personal preference.
>
> I prefer to mount the light high and in the center; my Riv has a light on
> the front tab of its M18 rack (in front of a rando bag), and my Foundry has
> a light mounted on the handlebars with the Schmidt mount
> <http://www.benscycle.com/p-1605-schmidt-handlebar-headlight-mount.aspx>.
>
> But on my Schwinn KOM, my M12 rack doesn't have a front tab so I use one
> of the threaded eyelets on the rack legs.
>
> I prefer to have my headlight on the left (non-drive) side, because then
> it illuminates more of the road (assuming I'm riding in the right lane) and
> throws the wheel shadow in the ditch.
> On the right side, the illuminates more of the ditch, and throws its wheel
> shadow on the road.
>
> But there are different viewpoints on this.
>
>
> I do agree with Peter White that Tim B's light would be more secure
> mounted directly to the threaded eyelet, instead of on the end of a lever
> arm.
>
> On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 6:37 PM, Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Peter,
>>
>> I suspect you are correct.  I just left the mount in the same position as
>> when I received my AHH from RBW.  I don't recall who assembled it or know
>> why they did it that way.  In the RBW picture of the light as mounted, it
>> is on the right side of the rack while mine came with the light mounted on
>> the left side of the rack.
>>
>> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/lights/products/busch-
>> muller-iq-x-dynamo-headlight?variant=23336360577
>>
>> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1403/7343/products/LTD-17-
>> 3_1024x1024.jpg
>>
>> Why do some people prefer to mount the dyno light on the right side
>> instead of on the left side?  Is this just personal preference or are there
>> different benefits of one choice vs the other?
>>
>> The wire run is shorter on the right, thus necessitating the wrapping as
>> shown in the above picture.  I guess the wire could probably also be
>> wrapped around the flat center piece of the rack just in front of the mount
>> screws to keep the run cleaner down the side.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 3:43 PM, Peter White <peterjwh...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> If I am seeing this correctly, you could have a simpler setup if you
>>> rotate the mount 180 degrees and attach the light to the threaded eyelet
>>> hanging from the rack. The IQ-X can be either right-side-up or
>>> up-side-down. Just rotate the mount.
>>>
>>> PJW
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 12:37 PM, Tim Butterfield <
>>> timbutterfi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> My picture didn't seem to come through.  Here's the link:
>>>> https://flic.kr/p/UVECZ6
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 9:32 AM, Tim Butterfield <
>>>> timbutterfi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On my Homer, I have the light on the left and run the wire up and
>>>>> through the Mark's rack and down the other side.
>>>>> From the light, the wire goes
>>>>> up to and over the front of the left rear support
>>>>> down and under the left edge of the rack
>>>>> diagonally through the rack to the front of the right rear support
>>>>> up and over the right rear support
>>>>> down and through a zip tie just above the fork rack mount
>>>>> down the fork and through another zip tie at the bottom of the fork
>>>>> and then into the dyno connection
>>>>>
>>>>>  I haven't used it enough to know whether it is a good setup or not.
>>>>>
>>>>> Tim
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Dyno wiring

[Tim Butterfield]

Peter,

I suspect you are correct.  I just left the mount in the same position as
when I received my AHH from RBW.  I don't recall who assembled it or know
why they did it that way.  In the RBW picture of the light as mounted, it
is on the right side of the rack while mine came with the light mounted on
the left side of the rack.

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/lights/products/busch-muller-iq-x-dynamo-headlight?variant=23336360577

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1403/7343/products/LTD-17-3_1024x1024.jpg

Why do some people prefer to mount the dyno light on the right side instead
of on the left side?  Is this just personal preference or are there
different benefits of one choice vs the other?

The wire run is shorter on the right, thus necessitating the wrapping as
shown in the above picture.  I guess the wire could probably also be
wrapped around the flat center piece of the rack just in front of the mount
screws to keep the run cleaner down the side.

Tim

On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 3:43 PM, Peter White <peterjwh...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Tim,
>
> If I am seeing this correctly, you could have a simpler setup if you
> rotate the mount 180 degrees and attach the light to the threaded eyelet
> hanging from the rack. The IQ-X can be either right-side-up or
> up-side-down. Just rotate the mount.
>
> PJW
>
> On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 12:37 PM, Tim Butterfield <
> timbutterfi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> My picture didn't seem to come through.  Here's the link:
>> https://flic.kr/p/UVECZ6
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 9:32 AM, Tim Butterfield <
>> timbutterfi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On my Homer, I have the light on the left and run the wire up and
>>> through the Mark's rack and down the other side.
>>> From the light, the wire goes
>>> up to and over the front of the left rear support
>>> down and under the left edge of the rack
>>> diagonally through the rack to the front of the right rear support
>>> up and over the right rear support
>>> down and through a zip tie just above the fork rack mount
>>> down the fork and through another zip tie at the bottom of the fork
>>> and then into the dyno connection
>>>
>>>  I haven't used it enough to know whether it is a good setup or not.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Dyno wiring

[Tim Butterfield]

My picture didn't seem to come through.  Here's the link:
https://flic.kr/p/UVECZ6

Tim

On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 9:32 AM, Tim Butterfield <timbutterfi...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> On my Homer, I have the light on the left and run the wire up and through
> the Mark's rack and down the other side.
> From the light, the wire goes
> up to and over the front of the left rear support
> down and under the left edge of the rack
> diagonally through the rack to the front of the right rear support
> up and over the right rear support
> down and through a zip tie just above the fork rack mount
> down the fork and through another zip tie at the bottom of the fork
> and then into the dyno connection
>
>  I haven't used it enough to know whether it is a good setup or not.
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Carla Waugh <lhtbikert...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> If you have a dyno hub on the front wheel and a small Nitto front rack on
>> your Sam can you please post a pic with the wiring showing? If you love
>> your setup let me know which hub and light you used.  Thanks
>>
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>
>

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Re: [RBW] Dyno wiring

[Tim Butterfield]

On my Homer, I have the light on the left and run the wire up and through
the Mark's rack and down the other side.
>From the light, the wire goes
up to and over the front of the left rear support
down and under the left edge of the rack
diagonally through the rack to the front of the right rear support
up and over the right rear support
down and through a zip tie just above the fork rack mount
down the fork and through another zip tie at the bottom of the fork
and then into the dyno connection

 I haven't used it enough to know whether it is a good setup or not.

Tim



On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Carla Waugh  wrote:

> If you have a dyno hub on the front wheel and a small Nitto front rack on
> your Sam can you please post a pic with the wiring showing? If you love
> your setup let me know which hub and light you used.  Thanks
>
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Re: [RBW] Leah's Bicycle Bus! (and question)

[Tim Butterfield]

In addition to the camera search, especially by the mall, there is also
theft of public property, the traffic cones.  I wonder if that would be
sufficient for a warrant to search.  Or, just wait for garbage collection
day and check the can at the curb for disposal of them.  Depending on
jurisdiction, once placed on the public curb for disposal, they are no
longer protected from search.  If found, they might have fingerprints that
would identify the perpetrator.

Tim

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 5:26 PM, REC  wrote:

> That's a great idea and I hope so.  Do they want to wait until someone is
> hurt to stop this, especially when it's not an isolated instance?
> Roberta
>
> On Monday, May 15, 2017 at 8:15:41 PM UTC-4, Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> Just out of curiosity, are there any traffic cameras or security cameras
>> that can put this guy behind the wheel?
>> You won't get him for DUI but you may be able to put some pressure on the
>> police to get him for some sort of wreckless endangerment.
>>
>> Ray
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Tim Butterfield]

It's a very good idea to never open the unexpected attachment without
validation first.  For reference, the Docusign phish emails I received
yesterday look like this in gmail:

Header:
[image: Inline image 3]

Body of email:
[image: Inline image 1]



On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 3:30 PM, Lee Legrand  wrote:

> I never opened the doc because it looks so suspicious.  Why would you send
> me a document and I hardly know you and it is not listed as part of any
> group.  Thats why I never opened it.
>
> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 6:14 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
>> That's a good idea, Patrick. Thanks!
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Tim Butterfield]

There are tradeoffs with password storage approaches.  1Password lets you
store them locally instead of in the cloud on a server controlled by
someone else.  LastPass stores them in the cloud, but the browser
extensions validate the URL before recognizing the site for filling in the
login page fields.

Keep in mind that some URLs look valid, but are not.  Refer to this article
for more information on unicode phishing.
https://www.wordfence.com/blog/2017/04/chrome-firefox-unicode-phishing/

Tim

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 3:10 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> As a start, you may want to change your Google password. I use 1Password,
> which makes managing unique passwords ridiculously simple. Passwords look
> like this, even for one off sites I register with for whatever reason: 
> xfrNemjHZWnAdFU3qUzQWXDN
> (not actually a password to anything, just showing an example).
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 4:07:53 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Leah: I never figured out a fix, I assume it finally stopped bouncing to
>> every damn person I've ever emailed. It's very upsetting.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: DON'T OPEN GOOGLE DOC

[Tim Butterfield]

If you don't have 2 factor authentication on your google related accounts,
you can add that here:
https://www.google.com/landing/2step/

Tim

On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 1:15 PM, Chris Birkenmaier 
wrote:

> I was going to PM you to see if you were sending me something.  Glad I
> didn't touch it.  thanks for the heads up
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 3:40:19 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> There's a massive phishing operation going on. If you see something from
>> me or any other list member requestion to open a Google Doc, don't touch it!
>
>

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