Re: [RBW] Re: Caveman Ketchup, batch #2`

2013-12-05 Thread Bobish


 On Dec 5, 2013, at 2:37 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 
 On 12/05/2013 12:17 PM, Perry wrote:
 The tomato is a veggie. Not because of the Supreme Court, tariffs, seeds, or 
 any other reason. It is a veggie because it's calorie density is most 
 similar to veggies. Unless of course, you believe that not all calories are 
 alike.
 
 From what I've read, it's nothing to do with calorie density. Biologically, 
 it's a fruit; but it's considered a vegetable because it's served as a 
 vegetable rather than as a dessert, and because the Supreme Court said so in 
 a case about the Tariff Act of 1883, which required a tax to be paid on 
 imported vegetables but not on fruit. 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nix_v._Hedden
 
 
I know, Steve. I was decreeing it so, as per emperor Perry  ;) 

• Perry 

 
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Re: [RBW] Re: mechanical issues

2013-11-26 Thread Bobish
The general premise of that post (as I read it) is to test Campagnolo's 
recommendations. True, the main concern is grease application on the spindle, 
but bolt threads are discussed. So yeah, I'm aware of this.

• Perry


 On Nov 25, 2013, at 5:59 PM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 Campagnolo Crankset Owners Manual
 
 
 
 On Monday, November 25, 2013 1:56:00 PM UTC-6, Perry wrote:
 Grease everything. Then grease it again. Only this time, put your heart into 
 it because you didn't use enough the first time. That's my philosophy, and 
 dang! It works for me the same way Paleo works for Patrick. ;) 
 
 Then there's this: 
 
 To grease or not to grease? | Off The Beaten Path 
 So for our René Herse cranks, we recommend that you lightly grease the 
 crank spindle. Also grease the treads of the bolts. Then tighten the bolts 
 to 25 Nm. That is it. If you like, you can check after your first ride that 
 the bolts are tight. Thereafter, leave them alone. 
 
 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/04/16/to-grease-or-not-to-grease/ 
 
 • Perry
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: mechanical issues

2013-11-26 Thread Bobish
Makes sense and I can't say I know anything about it other than repeating old 
practices, so I won't/can't argue. Maybe I'll try some beeswax on the threads 
next time. As for the equation, it means nothing me to me. May as well say 
cats wearing pants. So I'll take your word for it. ;)

• Perry


 On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:25 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 this is really easy.  If you're putting together anything on your bike, you 
 want to be easy to take apart, lube the threads - beeswax is great.  If you 
 have aluminum or zinc threads involved on either side, use lube to prevent 
 galling and/or dissimilar metal corrosion.  Especially in the case of crank 
 bolts, your threads are steel against steel.  The purpose of specified torque 
 is to stretch the bolts to a specified preload.  As I showed in the equation 
 above, friction is the greatest error in the preload and torque equation.  If 
 you grease the threads and honk on your torque wrench, your torque value will 
 result in an excessive preload, greater than the manufacturer's 
 specification, potentially breaking the bolt or stripping the axle threads.  
 This is the exact reason for Campagnolo's warning.  
 
 On Tuesday, November 26, 2013 4:38:42 AM UTC-6, Perry wrote:
 The general premise of that post (as I read it) is to test Campagnolo's 
 recommendations. True, the main concern is grease application on the 
 spindle, but bolt threads are discussed. So yeah, I'm aware of this.
 
 • Perry
 
 
 On Nov 25, 2013, at 5:59 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 Campagnolo Crankset Owners Manual
 
 
 
 On Monday, November 25, 2013 1:56:00 PM UTC-6, Perry wrote:
 Grease everything. Then grease it again. Only this time, put your heart 
 into it because you didn't use enough the first time. That's my 
 philosophy, and dang! It works for me the same way Paleo works for 
 Patrick. ;) 
 
 Then there's this: 
 
 To grease or not to grease? | Off The Beaten Path 
 So for our René Herse cranks, we recommend that you lightly grease the 
 crank spindle. Also grease the treads of the bolts. Then tighten the bolts 
 to 25 Nm. That is it. If you like, you can check after your first ride 
 that the bolts are tight. Thereafter, leave them alone. 
 
 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/04/16/to-grease-or-not-to-grease/ 
 
 • Perry
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Did Cavemen Eat Yams?

2013-11-23 Thread Bobish
Patrick, I know. I've read them. I remain utterly unconvinced. But I won't 
debate yet again. I'm not going down that rabbit hole one more time. 

• Perry


 On Nov 23, 2013, at 5:17 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:
 
 Perry,
 
 There are amazingly compelling arguments for the modern disease epidemics we 
 see with diabetes, Alzheimer's, obesity, and others, which the two resources 
 I mention explore from very different perspectives. Respond to those rather 
 than making cool aid accusations and we can talk.
 
 With abandon,
 Patrick
 
 On Saturday, November 23, 2013 2:37:12 PM UTC-7, Perry wrote:
 Marlene Zuk is a fool but Sisson we should listen to? Patrick, I love you 
 man, but step away from the cool aid. 
 
 • Perry
 
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[RBW] Fine steel wool to polish bullmoose h-bars?

2013-10-23 Thread Bobish
I have some bullmoose dull bright cromo h-bars with the faintest scuffs from 
inserting MTB bar ends up near the front of the bends of the bar. These are 
scuffs, not scratches. Polish won't remove them. Any thought on using a fine 
steel wool?

• Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fine steel wool to polish bullmoose h-bars?

2013-10-23 Thread Bobish
Funny. Back in the 1980s I got a well used lugged frame, rattle can sprayed it 
blue and thought, a yellow highlight would look good. What'd you know!? The 
sticker off the Chiquita banana I was eating was perfect. So I stuck it to the 
downtube and instant decal. :)

• Perry


On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:06 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hooray for leaving a little beausage in place!  Next time you peel a sticker 
 off a piece of fruit, like a banana for example, stick it to the spot that 
 has the scratch.  You'll smile every time you look at it, I promise.  
 
 On Wednesday, October 23, 2013 3:08:36 PM UTC-7, Perry wrote:
 
 I tried Nev-R-Dull and CLR polish. I also just tried the wet aluminum foil 
 trick. I really don't see any difference. But I decided I'm getting too 
 fussy and history tells me I'm headed to a bad place, so I'm just going to 
 leave good enough alone, it think. 
 
 • Perry
 
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Re: [RBW] Rambouillet or San Marcos

2013-10-14 Thread Bobish
I didn't measure the greatly precise mm. I just did a conversion from the inch 
measurement and copied and pasted the results so the op could see the mm 
compared to his own pbh without having to do the math.

• Perry


On Oct 14, 2013, at 6:50 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On 10/14/2013 03:33 AM, Perry wrote:
 Particulars: I've been told I have very uniform, off the shelf proportions 
 of torso/legs/arms. After repeated measurements, I read my PBH as between 
 34.5 inches (87.63 centimeters) and 34.62500 inches  (87.9475 centimeters).
 
 With this much variation in measurement due to technique, does it make sense 
 to cite a measurement with 4 or 5 digits to the right of the decimal point?
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: The Mysteries of Bike Assembly

2013-10-12 Thread Bobish
True, perhaps. But now standards have already been established. Changing at 
this point = Giant Pita.

• Perry 

On Oct 12, 2013, at 7:23 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

 No doubt derailler cable needs to be more flexible, but I'm betting we have 
 reached a point in material science where we can make a strong   flexible 
 cable.
 
 Michael
 
 On Saturday, October 12, 2013 4:13:04 AM UTC-4, Perry wrote:
 
 Some excellent points. Regarding the cable splitters... 
 
  In contrast the male end holds the cable with two set screws, but the 
  entry hole in the brake connect is much smaller than the exit hole and, to 
  my eye, just barely distinguishable from the derailler connect.   
 
 I have davinci cable splitters and find no problem distinguishing between 
 brake and derailleur easily. Not sure that the brand would make any 
 difference but just throwing it out as a data point. 
 
 Regarding 50+ year old eyesight, I'm 55. This is my main problem working on 
 bikes. This and diminished dexterty of my hands/fingers and loss of general 
 flexibility (to bend and hold my body in certain situations while making 
 repairs). For the flexibly part, I find myself moving the bike on the stand 
 more often to get the best angle at the job. Good readers that don't slide 
 down my nose and this http://www.lightsandknives.com/images/D/hl4.jpg are 
 the best I've been able to come up with for the eyesight thing. I remain 
 open to suggestions. 
 
 Also, as noted, I strongly suspect that a brake cable will not be be 
 flexible enough to give optimal shifting performance. This may be most 
 noticeable around tight bends such as under the BB cable guide to front 
 derailleur. Also, could be that this is more of an issue with indexed 
 shifting. I realize these standards were established prior to indexed 
 shifting so maybe I'm wrong about the reason but I've done some experiments 
 and the stiffness of a thick cable does appear to effect shifting IME. 
 
 • Perry
 
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[RBW] Re: Minimalist Riding Shoes

2013-09-14 Thread bobish
Vivobarefoot makes a very nice shoe and they have lots of models. I'm on my 
first pair and they wear like iron.

http://www.vivobarefoot.com/us/

• Perry

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[RBW] Low Normal Derailers

2013-09-12 Thread bobish
Iirc, I remember reading about these at various times in my cycling life. There 
were previous incarnations to this latest (now discontinued) model, no? Anyway, 
this would be like changing the gear shift sequence on a standard transmission 
car. Any improvement would be more than negated for me by having to think 
about shifting. Ymmv.

• Perry

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[RBW] Re: Low Normal Derailers

2013-09-12 Thread bobish
Matt, thus the ymmv disclaimer. 

• Perry

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[RBW] Re: Rack under load; Toplight mounted; Re-covered Flite

2013-09-10 Thread bobish
I don't see how this Patrick thumbnail thing could be his phone when viewing 
platform matters. Some people are seeing the thumbnails right side up, some 
upside down. Everyone sees the full images right side up. Correct? So how is 
Patrick's iPhone commanding different people to see different versions? Has 
anyone else experienced this outside google groups?

• Perry

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[RBW] Re: Rack under load; Toplight mounted; Re-covered Flite

2013-09-10 Thread bobish
Jeff, thanks for the link but after reading that thread, I'm even more 
convinced that it's a google mobile app problem. (See forum post below.)

• Perry

POST FROM FORUM:
Re: Iphone 4s Takes Pictures Upside-Down???
Oct 30, 2011 12:07 AM (in response to BEEZR)
It is not a bug in the iPhone, it is a bug in the viewing software and there 
have been several threads about this 'problem' in the last couple of years.  
The explanation is rather simple.
 
The EXIF metadata spec contains a field which defines how the image should be 
rotated for proper viewing, i.e. 'which side is up' 
 
Along about version 3.13 or so of iOS the software was changed to utilize that 
field of the EXIF spec--likely to facilitate faster photo saves from the 
camera.  Prior to that time iOS devices with cameras physically rotated image 
data so that the rotation value field of the EXIF metadata could be set to 
zero.  This allowed the images to display properly on those apps that were (and 
many still are) brain dead, i.e. they ignore the EXIF rotation field assuming 
it is zero, but that practice greatly increased the image to image time because 
rotating the image is CPU intensive and is better left to systems with fast 
CPUs.
 
So, the problem does not lie within the iPhone, it lies within the other apps 
that have so far failed to recognize and/or support the EXIF standard properly. 
 Don't complain to Apple, complain to those companies with brain dead 
software--and there are quite a few still in the dark ages of image 
presentation.  As a previous poster stated even Apple's own Safari doesn't 
handle it correctly (or at least it didn't earlier this year...I haven't 
checked lately).
 
I have suggested to Apple that they provide a switch to enable the old practice 
of rotating the image prior to saving but that has never happened.  If set to 
ON one could be notified that image to image time would be increased and the 
user could then decide to use it or not.  I suspect it wasn't added because the 
explanation of the function it provides could be confusing to non-technical 
users but I have nothing to support that suspicion.
 
It should also be noted that virtually all high end cameras set the rotation 
field, they do not rotate the image prior to saving.

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[RBW] It's like having a brand new bike!

2013-09-10 Thread bobish
The bike is gorgeous. Where was it photographed? Looks like a design studio 
masquerading as a bicycle shop. ;)

• Perry

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[RBW] Re: Help needed from the collective mind.

2013-08-30 Thread bobish
Clayton, I've been there. I went to a recumbent and it cured it until I could 
figure out other things (clean up diet, strengthen back, sleep with wrist 
brace, take more breaks from intensive activities which caused flare ups). Now 
I have a recumbent and a couple of DF bikes and after years of being totally 
'bent, I'm riding the DFs almost exclusively. I no longer sleep with the 
wrist brace but I wake with numbness and pain some mornings (nothing like 
before though). Pain is not gone but it's no longer debilitating.

Since you can't abide rough roads on the tour easy, you might consider trying a 
recumbent with suspension (bike or trike). Of course, this after you've 
exhausted the tweaking options on your current bike. As for the tour easy, you 
can unweight over rough roads if the pedals are close enough to the seat back 
(push yourself up off the seat bottom). Also pneumatic suspension. With a disc 
brake in back, you'd be able to get a pretty fat tire on there and run it low 
pressure. I have a 37 and it looks like there's room for much more. 

Anyway, you're on your own personal journey and if my experience is any 
indication, it's going to be along process. Good luck!

• Perry 

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[RBW] Mackinaw Island -

2013-08-29 Thread bobish
Kelly, really enjoyed these pics. That's a place I'd love to visit. I noticed 
very few bikes locked (or even carrying locks) so I imagine bike theft is not a 
major problem there?

• Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: back problems

2013-08-28 Thread bobish
I started 6-7 years ago in my home office. Rigged up a system which I still 
use. Imagine all your paperwork, stapler, ruler, etc, on the floor, keyboard a 
level up, computer another level up still. (See photo in link).

From there I added floor sleeping (no photo). Next was floor dining (photo). 
For dining, my wife uses the chairs with the back rest. I just sit on a 
pillow. For ultimate relaxation, I use a wooden back rest and pillow to lay 
down on floor to read and such (photo). I use chairs as well but I prefer the 
floor most of the time.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/870bpgvsdu2fyvi/JpHBcLcZb6

• Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: Re-thievery

2013-08-27 Thread bobish
Reminds me of Larry David and Leon taking back Larry's Joe Pepitone jersey 
only to realize it was a different jersey.

The Anonymous Donor (Season 6, Episode 2) — The 25 Best Curb Your 
Enthusiasm Episodes 
http://www.complex.com/pop-culture/2013/08/best-curb-your-enthusiasm-episodes/anonymous-donor

• Perry

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[RBW] Re: back problems

2013-08-27 Thread bobish
Another floor sitter here. When you sit onto floor without back support, you 
have no choice but to work your core. Also, you have to shift positions--unlike 
when you're supported by a comfy chair. So in essence, you're doing work just 
to stay upright. Tiring at first but it works. Been doing for like 6+ years. 
Can't recommend it highly enough.

• Perry

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[RBW] Cockpit Change-out's

2013-08-22 Thread bobish
In a previous life, long ago, I did blog post. The blog is long gone but I 
saved a PDF. It's in my public Dropbox folder so I assume visible to all. 
Disclaimer: the HTML to PDF conversion has likely rendered certain actions and 
features non-working.

http://bit.ly/1au8nuW

• Perry

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[RBW] messing around with my Hunqapillar

2013-08-22 Thread bobish
I think that the vo or nitto adapter with suitable stem would look nicer than 
an open face quill stem. Also, it would give you more options in stem choices 
should you need to change that out. I'm not against threadless so I'm not 
bothered at all by that look. The vo page shows a look I'd find suitable on 
most any of my bikes. Ymmv.

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/stems/threadless-stems/vo-threadless-stem-adaptor.html

• Perry

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's

2013-08-22 Thread bobish
Tony, my first choice is albas. My second choice is albas. Third? Ditto. In 
fact, I doubt there is any problem in life (bike-related or otherwise) that 
can't be solved by albas. ;)

Seriously, they have been my go to bars for many years. I can be comfortable 
with most any bar but I just love the albas (or I used to call them a-bars). 
Ymmv. 

Here was my little ode to them, again, back in the day. (Same PDF disclaimers 
as with previous link.)

http://bit.ly/14ZnEeW

• Perry

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Change-out's

2013-08-22 Thread bobish
Tony, I never tried them that way because I know from the m-bar experiment it 
wouldn't be my cup of tea. I like being upright and schooching down when 
necessary by going the bar's deep bends (up front)--with elbows bent if 
necessary to get lower. When I'm descending down gnarly terrain, I want the bar 
ends (with reachable brake levers) to come up and back as much as possible--not 
low like when the a-bar upside down.

• Perry

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[RBW] Is it a bellwether? Pacenti blowing out their 559 rims for good.

2013-08-22 Thread bobish
It wasn't too long ago that non one dared go adventure or world touring on 
anything other than 559 wheels because they'd be ubiquitous and therefore easy 
to replace/find a large tire selection, etc. Now this? It can only mean one 
thing: time to start hoarding discounted wheels because they're coming 
back--just like everything else, they will be rediscovered.

• Perry (no fan of 559 wheels but I can see which way the wind blows)

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Re: [RBW] Stolen Royal H Mixte Ventura

2013-08-16 Thread bobish
If at all possible, I'd have police handle it and not paid. Trafficking in 
stolen goods is trafficking in stolen goods and should not be reimbursed, 
rewarded, etc. I mean, if I suspend all reasonable sense, I can get big screen 
tvs for pennies on the dollar, never ask about provenance, and ask for my money 
back when rightful owner wants them back. But I'm not judging you for your 
decision. We do what can in an imperfect world.

• Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Japanese bed (shikibuton)

2013-08-11 Thread bobish
John, I'm happy to do so. I'm reading this on google groups mobile and aee no 
way of finding your email so please send me that. See previous post by me for 
my email.

• Perry

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[RBW] Re: Leaving RBW Owners Bunch

2013-08-10 Thread bobish
In like Flynn, a round up, here:

http://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/198700.html

Also, on a related note:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=In%20like%20flint

• Perry

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[RBW] OT: Japanese bed (shikibuton)

2013-08-10 Thread Bobish
I'm seeking opinions and info on traditional Japanese beds. I've been sleeping 
on the floor for years (on a memory foam pad sitting atop a rug). I thought of 
it as an experiment and bought the cheapest memory foam I could find (basically 
a bare 3 thick slab) with the intention of upgrading--or going back to regular 
bed if the experiment went bust. Well, it turned so well I never replaced the 
foam pad. But now I'm interested in a Japanese bed and would love to hear from 
anyone here (off list, please) who has experience with such. I see that there 
are variations in the bedding style and materials...and on whether it sits on 
the floor or on a frame or tatami mat. I know there is plenty of info on the 
net but I figure I'd shoot this out just in case there is a bob-er rbw-er who 
has 2 cents to throw down.

• Perry 

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[RBW] Re: OT: Japanese bed (shikibuton)

2013-08-10 Thread bobish
Ian, if you you email me at bobish (you know the provider), I will be happy to 
forward any responses I receive.

• Perry

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[RBW] Kinda OT but Kinda ON-T: Riv'd Ritchey Road Bike

2013-08-05 Thread bobish
Ok, I learned something here:

http://s91.photobucket.com/user/bylar13/media/Ritchey/081_zps6a55d73a.jpg.html?sort=2o=20

Why didn't I think of that before?

• Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Choice

2013-08-03 Thread bobish
Unfortunately, most of the women I see riding in my area are just copying the 
carbon boys in equipment, style, and even bad manners. Some even seem to be 
trying to one up them (overcompensating?). When it comes to cycling, simply 
put, there's not enough dilly-dallying or lollygagging by either gender.

• Perry

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[RBW] Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

2013-07-31 Thread bobish
Jim, thanks for your most excellent info. To bike shops I'd say, leave the 
steerer uncut, place stem in midrange area with spacers above and below, and 
put up a sign saying the steerer will be cut/tailored to the buyer after 
purchase. If you don't want to do that for the carbon boys, I understand but we 
are talking tactical bikes here. Me thinks for any negative (uninformed) 
comments you may get, eventually, some people will sing the praises of the 
first shop that bothered to fit the bike to them, and they're now more 
comfortable than they've ever been. 

I can't describe the visceral (negative) reaction I have walking into a good 
shop, seeing a bunch of salsas and other interesting bikes I'd be interested 
in--but with their steerers all cut. They've basically handed me a fitting 
non-starter. Since I can do my own bike work, what I ask myself is, why should 
I buy the bike here when I can instead, look for a deal and get just want I 
want? I did buy a a salsa fargo at the lbs a while back. Yes, the steerer was 
cut. Yes, I regret doing so because it doesn't fit quite perfectly and I'd love 
to have a bit more height on the stem. Next time I'll be buying online or used.

• Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Fitting - A Mine Field

2013-07-28 Thread bobish
 The only thing I'd fault the shop on is cutting the steerer tube before 
 selling the bike. 

This! I'm sorry but the only way to explain this (pre-fitting) is stupid, lazy 
or both.

• Perry

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Re: [RBW] Ride, with photos

2013-07-24 Thread bobish
Patrick, FYI: I can see some people's g+ pics. Not sure why I can see some 
without having to join and not others. Maybe there is a setting you've engaged 
(only g+ members, public/private, etc). 

• Perry

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[RBW] Ride, with photos

2013-07-23 Thread bobish
Page says I can't see pics unless I join g+. This isn't the first time. Not 
joining so I guess I'll learn to do without. It's become a bone of contention 
now.

• Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: derailler compatability question

2013-07-21 Thread bobish
 Do they not know about inline adjusters? 

+1. I would not pick my derailleur based solely on whether it had a barrel 
adjuster. By that logic, I should have thrown out the suntour rear deraileur 
when I recently converted to bar end shifters in vintage trek.

• Perry

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[RBW] skinny tires OK on a mountain bike?

2013-07-18 Thread bobish
It may drop the BB too much for comfort or otherwise affect handling. On my 
salsa fargo, I threw on some 35 tires which measure actual 37. I probably 
wouldn't want to drop that bike any lower though.

• Perry

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[RBW] Solo Rides and Pedicab PhotoShoot.

2013-07-17 Thread bobish
Manny, great photos as always but you're making me nervous in P7133788  
P7133789. Stay safe.
• Perry

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[RBW] Re: Does your upstroke knee break the plane of your Alba bar ends?

2013-07-16 Thread bobish
Based on your description, Michael, my knee is exactly aligned with the end of 
the bar. I use bar end shifters, however, so those break the imaginary plane. 
This position is wonderful for me and at this height stem/bar, I'm thinking 
some more extension may work even better. I have an effective 8.5cm extension 
on a dirt drop stem and may try a 12-14 cm tallux at some point. Whether that 
will be an improvement, I can't say (fine points of personal preference bicycle 
adjustment and all that). 

Btw, for anyone wondering about knee/bar end shifter interference while slow 
speed turning, the way if works is that you hit your knee 3 or 4 times, curse 
under breath, and then some reflex kicks in thereafter which allows you to move 
your knee out of the way without thought or hesitation. 

• Perry

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[RBW] Re: Alba bar-reach

2013-07-15 Thread bobish
I was relunctant to comment because frankly, this is all subjective. When I 
read Michael's post however, I thought, that's exactly my impression from 
looking at the pic. And your response seems to back that up. First of all, 
don't move the saddle to change your reach. Saddle height and position fore/aft 
position are about being over the bike in the right place and proper leg 
extension--irrespective of reach to the handlebar. If that part feels correct, 
leave it alone.

Does the stem have any more rise that you can get out of it? Of so, try that 
first. That will bring back the bar back a bit as well and decrease your reach. 
If that's not possible, getting the bar closer or higher will involve a new 
stem (assuming the frame is not too small for you and a suitable stem is 
available). How high the stem can extend from the head tube and what reach the 
neck is are the two parts you can choose/change. You're going to have to make 
some educated guesses based on your body/how it feels on the bike/ride 
experiences.

Good luck!

• Perry

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[RBW] Re: I'm not sure I get the connection between bikes and hatchets...

2013-07-03 Thread bobish
Joe, I'm not much for camping either. For anyone who doesn't understand why, I 
point them here.

Jim Gaffigan - Camping, waking up, and bacon - YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UahqgK60vuksns=em

Perry

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[RBW] Re: Betty delivery......catch-22

2013-07-03 Thread bobish
I've been in this position a few times. It seems that long-awaited packages 
have a habit of showing up during the 3 seconds that I'm out or can't come to 
the door. I know that FedEx has a release form online. Don't know about ups. I 
have used the FedEx form to good effect. It's shipment specific, which means 
print out and fill in for that particular shipment. 

Enjoy the bike!
___
Perry

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[RBW] Albas and Saddle Width

2013-07-03 Thread bobish
I heart the b68 and lately, I'm trying and liking the nose tilted up more than 
usual. Centers the sit bones on the wide part of the saddle and when you're 
upright, the nose does not seem to bother the sensitive parts. Lots of photos 
here:

My hobo bike project: http://myhobobike.tumblr.com/ 
___
Perry

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[RBW] Re: Albas and Saddle Width

2013-07-03 Thread bobish
Yeah, I'm not happy about the b68 being discontinued. I've got 4 in play 
currently (b68 and b68s models) so naturally, I'm a fan. 
___
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[RBW] Re: Albas and Saddle Width

2013-07-03 Thread bobish
Thanks for the link, Ron. I'm aware that they're out there still (for the time 
being) and probably should stock up but other necessities beckon.
___
Perry

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[RBW] Big Sur Tour

2013-06-24 Thread bobish
Well done! Love the photos, especially. And the beard. Mustn't forget. Kudos to 
the beard! :)

Perry

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[RBW] Anyone done a metric century or longer on Albas?

2013-06-22 Thread bobish
I did a lot of 40-60 milers last summer. I find them comfortable for any 
distance and can't possibly imagine them getting less comfortable for longer 
distances (assuming of course, you like riding them to begin with). I have 
many, many years on these bars now--ever since since 2006, when I wrote my blog 
post The Albatross Handlebar Fan Club. I've tried other h-bars since but 
always gone back to a-bars. My feeling is that they provide the best of all 
worlds (at least for me). Need to relax the back and neck and take some weight 
of wrists and hands? Grab the very ends. That's great for a steep descent with 
hard braking. Gets the weight back on the bike. Need to get aero or just 
stretch out? Grab the bends out front. Need to switch up between the two 
positions? Grab right at where the brake levers are or just above. I usually 
have 2 fingers in front of the brake clamp and 2 behind. That position is my 
favorite for climbing (especially out of the saddle). Mix those three up and a 
couple of others, make sure you have a wide saddle, and all is well. That's 
all. Nothing else to say on this.

Perry

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[RBW] Re: Anyone done a metric century or longer on Albas?

2013-06-22 Thread bobish
I see you're in VT. I'm in CT. New England being what it is, you, like me, 
probably have some rather steep hills. I stand on my bikes (all have a-bars) 
for the steep stuff and the a-bars are great. I usually grip at the brake lever 
or just beyond for standing. Lots of leverage and feels very natural to me. 
Better than drops. Ymmv. No way to know unless you try.

Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: DIY 40-26 questions

2013-06-20 Thread bobish
Jay, 

Don't get me wrong. Most of my bikes have come to me used or set up a certain 
way and I'm too cheap/lazy to change out the cranks. A 45 middle is a bit high 
but it's on garage find trek that came to me with a half step plus granny set 
up and I'm just dealing with it for now. If I were going from scratch, the 
40/26 would be perfect on that bike. Where I ride, I have some very steep hills 
where I need the small ring but the hills are fairly short (usually from a few 
hundred feet to a mile or so). That explains why I'm in the middle 90% of the 
time. That and the fact that I'm a lightweight and rarely carry much on the 
bike. Certainly for a mountainous climb with a loaded bike I'd use the small 
ring a lot more. 

Perry

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[RBW] Re: shifting a 9 speed cassette with a 7 speed barcon?

2013-06-20 Thread bobish
If Joe has diagnosed the problem correctly (and I've seen this happen countless 
times with these shifters, so it's quite possible it's the case here as well), 
then see below.
---
Posted by E.B. at 
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/?fromgroups#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/aIpahOwpd7o

7/23/12 

Tim, these are directions I've posted elsewhere to walk people through the same 
issue you appear to be experiencing.
This is from my experience. Note that these instructions assume you have the 
common top normal type of RD.  If low normal, reverse the HIGH  LOW in the 
following.

Once you incorrectly install and subsequently attempt to operate the improperly 
assembled barcon shifter, you've got to get back to point A. Shimano's 
directions for installation of new barcons even instruct the user to not 
operate or fiddle with the assembly prior to new installation. Unfortunately, 
those same instructions don't describe what exactly will happen if you do 
fiddle with them or the procedure to correct.

To restore the lever range and indexing action, you use the lever boss cover 
as a *key* to wind the lever back to its original position. Merely rotating the 
lever boss cover to its correct position won't necessarily correct the problem.

From recollection, here's how I have done this:
1. Remove or disconnect cable
2. Remove the lever and boss cover from shifter body
3. Install boss cover in correct orientation
4. Put lever in place on stud or axle, but in the LOW position; that is, with 
the lever nearly parallel to the ground.
5. With either the screw in place or with your thumb  finger securely holding 
the lever against the boss cover, shift the lever to the HIGH position.
6. Repeat this action, if necessary, until the mechanism is restored to its 
original position. You'll know this when it won't rotate with gentle force.
7. Install the lever in the HIGH position and secure mounting screw. You should 
now be able to operate the barcon through the full range of indexing detents.
8. Re-install cable and adjust tension as necessary.

Hope this helps.

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Re: [RBW] Re: DIY 40-26 questions

2013-06-19 Thread bobish
I like where this thread is headed...

I've been doing something similar on all my bikes. Basically, any bike that 
already came with a triple, I ride the middle ring 90% of the time and use the 
small ring for steep hills. The large could be exchanged for a bash guard but I 
don't bother. So 38/24, 45/28, whatever is on there for middle and small rings, 
that's my double. I built up a mixte for my wife and for that, I selected the 
VO Polyvalent Crankset which IIRC is 46/30. For the freewheel or cassette, the 
wider the range the better I like it (11-32 or 11-34 is nice, but I have the 
original 14-28 freewheel on an old trek). So what? You shift, you pedal, you 
ride. It's all good. Nothing really complicated going on and I never understood 
why people need to over-complicate it. Taping gear ratios to handlebars? Been 
there, done that, have the t-shirt.

Keep it simple.
Perry

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[RBW] Re: Your method of going around brake levers with cloth bar tape?

2013-06-08 Thread bobish
The riv video way is the way I've always done it when I rode drops (cheater 
strips at the brake clamps and starting from the ends and finishing at the 
stem, then twine or tape). Trying to work with cloth around the brakes without 
using the strips a PIA or next to impossible (at least for my limited skills). 
There are multiple ways to deal with bar tape though. Two separate strips going 
opposite ways and finishing at the brake lever, harlequin patterns with 
two-tone tape or the same color, etc. I've also started at the stem and 
finished at the bar ends wrh some success but that takes work and trial and 
error to secure with the barend shifter--and still leaves the brake covering 
challenge. I think that this is one of things that doesn't have just one 
correct answer.

Perry

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[RBW] Re: Albas...steel or aluminum? Please help me decide...

2013-06-06 Thread bobish
Doh! Thanks, Matt.

Perry

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[RBW] Re: Albas...steel or aluminum? Please help me decide...

2013-06-05 Thread bobish
I have 3 bikes with a-bars and I'm pretty sure one of them is cro-mo. Are they 
obviously marked somewhere? Near stem insert point? I need to look. Anyway, I 
don't think it makes much difference to me. How about cro-mo for heavy 
rider/rough-tough offroading and AL for a everything else?

Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: Betty Foy/Yves Gomez stem question

2013-06-05 Thread bobish
It's not either or. I put the levers in the conventional place (about a grip's 
worth from the bar end) but ride with my hands in many positions, (looped 
around levers, in front of levers, on the bends out front, etc). As with drop 
bars, I use the lever as part of the bar.

Perry

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[RBW] Betty Foy/Yves Gomez stem question

2013-06-04 Thread bobish
I can only imagine that they're saying a longer stem will put more weight on 
your hands because it will stretch out your reach and get you leaning on the 
bars (weight of upper body on hands). Since you have long arms, found the a-bar 
comes too far back, and like to be a little more stretched out anyway, it would 
make sense to try a longer stem. Do you figure 3 cm or so would put the 
handlebar more to your liking? Do you like the bar otherwise? If yes to both, 
I'd try the longer stem.

Perry

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[RBW] Anybody ordering to enter the Sam/Betty raffle? And usual excellent customer service from Riv folks

2013-06-01 Thread bobish
I put together an order with that in mind but enough items were out of stock or 
not exactly what I wanted--so that I had a hard time getting to the minimum. 
After a while, it just felt like I was adding items to my cart for the 
raffle--not because I needed/wanted them. So I ordered what I wanted only and 
now I have no routing interest in who wins. :) 

Perry

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[RBW] Rivendell handlebars comparaison

2013-06-01 Thread bobish
Very interesting! Nice presentation.

Perry

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Re: [RBW] Rivendizing the bar and shifters on this Raleigh doable?

2013-05-30 Thread bobish
Steve,

I use either mode and am equally happy. If the drivetrain is made up of older, 
fussy parts, it's friction. If its got the more modern stuff (that means 8 or 9 
speed shimano for me), I index. Unlike some people on the interwebs, I find 
adjusting a modern drivetrain for indexing is no problem. Interestingly, I set 
up my wife's 2 bikes with bar ends and indexing and she's been qvelling about 
it ever since. All she wants to know about her bikes is: do they have upright 
bars, bar end shifters, and indexing? Well, she doesn't even ask about the 
indexing anymore. She just assumes it's there or there will be trouble for me. 
;)

But for me, manual, indexed, whatever. It's truly all good and frankly, I like 
the variety. As usual, YMMV and the OP should, decide based on personal 
preference.

Perry 

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[RBW] Re: Alba vs. Bosco

2013-05-29 Thread bobish
Smitty: you echo my sentiments exactly. I'm about as upright and laid back a 
rider as anyone (I even own a recumbent). All the hoopla about the Bosco had me 
wondering so I decided to order one from and get some hands on experience with 
it. After some tests this morning, I ruled it out immediately. In fact, I can't 
imagine myself using this thing on any normal bike. It's just too swept back, 
interferes with pedaling/knees on tight turns and puts my hands way too far 
back when climbing out of the saddle--which makes for an awkward, ineffective 
position. In all these situations, the a-bar is far better--even ideal. Also, 
the a-bar has a better selection of hand positions. So it's a hands down 
winner. Of course, this is all subjective. 

Nevertheless, my 2 cents: I see the Bosco as a specialty bar that is made for 
bikes with unusual geometry or for riders with special needs (top tube on bike 
that otherwise well fits being way too long, for torso/arms, for example).

Perry
My hobo bike project: http://myhobobike.tumblr.com/ 

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[RBW] Rivendizing the bar and shifters on this Raleigh doable?

2013-05-29 Thread bobish
Just do it! My way would be shimano 8 or 9 run in friction mode. If you 
upgrade the drivetrain (or take the whole cockpit off that bike and plant it 
on another bike with 8 or 9 speed), you'll have clicking or friction (your 
call, so choose the bar ends accordingly). That's what I did on my hobo bike. 
I'm leaving it friction for the foreseeable future because I have no plans to 
change drivetrain parts. But, just in case... 

IMO, nothing beats a-bars with bar end shifters. Nothing! Every single bike I 
own is set up that way. I'm boring but when I find a good thing, I stick with 
it. :)

Perry
My hobo bike project: http://myhobobike.tumblr.com/ 

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[RBW] Cool riv related photo

2013-05-28 Thread Bobish
This just came up on tumblr feed. Enjoy.

http://bit.ly/115X6b4

--Perry

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[RBW] Another Albatross Question

2013-05-26 Thread bobish
Iirc, grant billed the cro-mo version as stronger and more suitable for offroad 
or heavier/stronger/more aggressive riders. 

Best,
Perry has both ers ions and for my use I would worry about one over the other

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Fwd: [RBW] Image Request: Boscoe Bars from Above

2013-05-24 Thread bobish
Joe, what rack is that, please? —Perry

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Re: [RBW] Image Request: Boscoe Bars from Above

2013-05-24 Thread bobish
Oh, I see. Thanks.

Perry

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Re: [RBW] Image Request: Boscoe Bars from Above

2013-05-24 Thread bobish
Thanks, Joe. I appreciate the response.

Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: Betty Foy and Red Brooks

2013-05-23 Thread bobish
Hi again, Leah,

I've been following the thread with great interest and suspense. :) I was one 
of the responders who preferred the looks of the honey b-68 and also thought 
you'd prefer it on that bike due to the upright riding position. But I also 
thought you needed to try it ASAP and see for yourself so that you could move 
on. And so now you have, and life is good. Worry not. All part of the fun of 
the trial and error process. You don't know how good anything is until you try 
something just a little to this or that side of it. And I know that you'll get 
your b-68 dialed back in. Just be patient. 

Perry

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[RBW] Re: Installing Cork grips for bar ends tip needed please...

2013-05-23 Thread bobish
Right, no grips until the stem and cockpit are finalized works for me. If bare 
bars bother you, uses h-bar tape laying around can be put on or off in minutes. 
Wrap it from the brake levers back to the bar ends and finish with electrical 
tape. This way, pressure from palms pushing forward goes with the grain of 
wrapped tape.

The glue thing has sworn me off cork and other such grips. I use tape or the 
grips that that clamp on with bolts at the ends. Not as elegant, I know, but 
for me, there is no such thing as a final cockpit. I'm going to be changing 
something sooner or later and it's going to involve dealing with nasty, glued 
grips. Pass.

Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: NITTO-esqe new King cages on Riv now for cheap!

2013-05-21 Thread bobish
Nothing wrong with treating that under downtube cage as storage for an extra 
water bottle which is then swapped with one of the more convenient empties at 
the next pit stop. The under downtube cage is also great for non-hydration 
use—such as first aid kit, etc. I usually use it for a multi-bike-swappable kit 
I've put together and store in one of these:

http://www.cagerocket.com/product_info.htm

If I'm going to need access to that kit, I'm off the bike anyway.

Perry

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[RBW] Just Ride (g-dammit!).

2013-05-18 Thread bobish
Everything that's old becomes new again, I bypassed the latest 
fixed/singlespeed wave so I can be new without ever getting old. Not making 
much sense but it's 5 am...so, you know.

Perry

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[RBW] Re: Betty Foy and Red Brooks

2013-05-14 Thread bobish
Just try it. You know you want to. ;) Then you'll know. Nobody can tell you for 
sure and trial and error should be viewed as not only necessary, but one of the 
pleasures of your avocation (a learning process worthy of its own discovery and 
delights). In other words, the process of learning about yourself and the bike 
should be enjoyed, not avoided. If it was me and the wiating for the red b-17 
was a long one, I'd pick up a used black (or whatever) and ride it while the 
red was on order. Then I'd know for sure that either I preferred the b-68 and 
cancel the red brooks, or wait with anticipation for its arrival. Most 
importantly, having crossed that off my investigation list, I'd move on to the 
next experiment.

Enjoy,
Perry

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Re: [RBW] Betty Foy and Red Brooks

2013-05-12 Thread bobish
I ride upright with a- bars and I love the b-68 and b-68s saddles. The size and 
shape would be my first priority over color. Even if it was the same saddle and 
color was the only difference, I might still have a slight preference for the 
honey (all my b-68 saddles are honey). 

That said, you can only know if the b-17 will work for you if you try it. And 
personal style is well, personal. If the red floats your boat, go for it. One 
nice thing about this list is that if you decide to go back to the b-68, you'll 
find a buyer for the red b-17 here and it will go to a old home where it will 
be appreciated.

Perry

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[RBW] How upright can you get with Alba's/stem combo?

2013-05-11 Thread bobish
Not a riv but close enough? I just converted a garage sale find trek 520 to 
a-bars (all my bikes have a-bars!). It's pretty damned upright.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x47bt8g8hntks2l/Photo%20May%2009%2C%2011%2023%2017%20AM.jpg

Bolt upright? Well, yeah. I tried it with the original stem and the a-bar (I 
refuse to call it an alba) was a bit low. I used a dirt drop stem because I had 
it on hand but for aesthetics, I'd prefer an L-shaped nitto stem that comes up 
pretty high. The bar position should be roughly he same. My advice for all 
interested in more upright position is:

- go for it!
- start with wide saddle
- go for as upright as humanly possible and work your way back until you hit 
your sweet spot

Enjoy!

- Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: Interesting discussion: Riv bikes v. BQ bikes

2013-05-09 Thread bobish
Steve P., what are your riding? Any pics (link). Also, anyone know if there is 
low trail google group or equivalent? (I'm already familiar with BQ and Jan 
but just wondering if there is a general discussion/group going on elsewhere.)

Thanks,
Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: Interesting discussion: Riv bikes v. BQ bikes

2013-05-09 Thread bobish
Thanks, Steve. Those are some awesome looking bikes (and rides). 

Perry

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[RBW] Re: OT: Someone else is trying to reinvent the wheel, literally

2013-05-03 Thread bobish
 Making fun of this idea from the point of view of a cyclist who uses 700c-ish 
 wheels is to miss the point, and the inventor seems to have a pretty good 
 understanding and appreciation of how bicycles work.
 
Agreed. Assuming this works beyond just in theory (my main concern is energy 
loss while pedaling), this could have applications in small wheeled upright 
bikes, recumbents/trikes, etc. 

Perry

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[RBW] Cycling computers

2013-05-03 Thread bobish
Well, you've gotten many good suggestions here. I used to have some sort of 
computer on every bike. I even mounted my car GPS to the hadlebars with some 
spare parts. Why not? It didn't cost me a penny and the GPS had a bike mode. 
Got enough juice from each charge for most day trips. But nowadays only 2 out 
of our 5 bikes has have computers—even then, one of those those has a dead 
battery I doubt I'll replace. So, I'm enjoying going mostly without these days, 
as it allows me focus on other things about my rides. The one computer left is 
a planet bike protege (9, I think) and it's good. No complaints.

That said, computers for cycles has really morphed into something else entirely 
these days. Lots of questions I'd ask myself if I were to get into it again: 
Directions? Elevation? Other gps functions?  Social and archiving (sharing trip 
data, comparing trip times, keeping logs, etc)? Just the basics (odo, current 
speed, clock, a couple of trip averages)?

The answers to above quesitons would dictate the type I'd choose. For just the 
basics, I'd go for the most basic wired, cheap unit. A cateye, planet bike, or 
whatever. I think they're all comparable, frankly. Anything more complicated 
I'd be deciding between a garmin (or equivalent) and a phone app/smart phone. 
Having a smart phone with me anyway (and having access to maps, weather, 
contact to get help already) I'd probably go for the app but not totally sure 
without going through the actual thought process/research.

Perry

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[RBW] Riv Suggestion Box: San Marcos

2013-05-02 Thread bobish
It's clearly a soma bike, designed by riv/grant—so soma decides the branding, 
etc. 

This is a bike we were commissioned to design for Soma Fabrications of San 
Francisco, for distribution to its many dealers.  We’re friends with the SOMA 
people, and they wanted a Rivendell-designed bike. As part of the agreement, we 
were (not surprisingly) allowed to sell them, too.

This deal benefits riv, soma, and the buyer. Soma has a bike they can market as 
designed by riv/grant, yet control production and sell though their dealer 
network. Riv/grant get to expand their influence/message/market by making a 
riv-like bike available to folks who might not otherwise know about riv or now 
consider buying one because it's cheaper. Could lead to new customers in parts, 
upgrades to riv bikes, etc. The buyer can get a less pretty (somewhat 
subjective, I suppose), riv-approved, riv clone at a cheaper price. And unlike 
a riv, one find discounted deals on new frames/bikes on the web. Win, win, win.

As for the head badge, I doubt anyone would care if you swap it to riv but riv 
wouldn't do it as it's not part of the original agreement. 

Perry

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[RBW] Re: Crank Length Question

2013-05-01 Thread bobish
Another tip toer here. Back on topic, I wouldn't alter my crank length for this 
purpose. If you decide to try it, be mindful of any new pains creeping in 
slowly—especially in the knees.

Perry

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[RBW] The Betty Foy Project

2013-04-29 Thread bobish
Build them yourself. 100 lb rider x 10 rides year = can't mess it up. Building 
wheels is not difficult, just tedious, IMO. I gave it up because I don't have 
the patience and got tired of dealing with all the spoke length inventory and 
other such details. But any wheels I've built—from the first to the last 
set—served me well and it was good to demystify the process. Building a 
wheelset or three will also make you a better truer of wheels as you'll get a 
better sense of why a wheel is out of true. 

Perry

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[RBW] Re: 5/2 Fast Diet?

2013-04-24 Thread bobish
Although I consider Taubes a charlatan, I have read up and experimented with 
many types of intermittent fasting (including 5/2) and think that some sort of 
regular or semi-regular fasting is a great idea for many reasons. Usually, 
fasting conjures up images of hippies talking about life force and cleansing 
but there are many practical applications of it being practiced. Check out the 
true north clinic for one. They basically treat diseases by water fasts and 
have good success. For someone already healthy, it's good to remember that 
fasting has been around for a long time--forced at times of famine and 
voluntary at other times (usually religious in nature). We are well-suited to 
it. Who came up with 3 meals and 2 snacks a day anyway and why is that the best 
way to eat? I suspect that fasting played some role in the original 
Mediterranean diet study results which date back to the 1950s or 1960s (if I 
recall correctly). Much of the study was in Crete and Greek Orthodox practice 
regular fasting and woud have kept to it back then. Many of the older 
generation still do. 

What's important, if you're intrigued, is to try if for yourself and see. I've 
been doing fast-5 for like 2 years and like it very much. The PDF book is free* 
if you want to check it out. http://www.fast-5.com/

Basically, every 24 hours, I eat within an 8 hour window and don't eat for 16 
hours. Works for me.

* I have no affiliation with the fast-5 site or authors. 

Bar,
Perry

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[RBW] Anyone gone to all upright bars - Albatross, Bosco, etc?

2013-04-16 Thread bobish
All upright and swept back here. Have not tried the Bosco because the a-bar has 
been such a revelation that I can't imagine improvement. I've also a steel 
h-bar one one bike (took it off an old schwinn--it's probably a wald). I find 
this sort of riding position ideal for many reasons. 

- I can sit upright all I want for comfort but can easily crouch down and honk 
away  when I feel like being in a more aero position. 
- Weight back: excellent control of braking and shifting (bar ends) in all 
conditions. 
- Lots of usable hand positions if you're the least bit experimental.
- Wide selection of cheap brake levers that will mate with brake of your 
choice. 

I see no downsides. Over the years, I've tried different drop bars, m-bars, 
trekking bars, etc, to convince myself I'm wrong about upright, swept back 
h-bars and have yet to succeed in doing so.

Perry give me my a-bar or give me death--well that may be a bit extreme Bessas

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone gone to all upright bars - Albatross, Bosco, etc?

2013-04-16 Thread bobish
 Can Albatrosses take bar end shifters? Can Albatrosses be slowly winging 
 their way toward my Fargo ...???

My Fargo here with criteria met.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cuadwqs0poqso5z/Photo%20May%2007%2C%2010%2006%2005%20PM.jpg

-
Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone gone to all upright bars - Albatross, Bosco, etc?

2013-04-16 Thread bobish
Has anyone setup their Albas as Rene described, with brake levers well 
forward, moustache-style? I think that would be terrific - very similar to 
moustache style, where you have hand positions all over the bars, but access 
the brakes with your hands up at the front bends.

I did, a long while back. Works fine, just a matter of preference. I have them 
back in the normal spots now. Btw, there's also this:

http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2008/cc426r3-joezigurski1208.html

Perry

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ram: loaded; Parigi-Roubaix tires; dt shifters: trade?

2013-04-15 Thread bobish
Seems like a google (partial) mobile glitch. On my iPad, the attached 
thumbnails are upside down but when I click to enlarge, they're right side up. 

Perry

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Re: [RBW] New Bike Fitting System

2013-04-12 Thread bobish
Agree with Garth. A bike fitting system is fine to get you started but after 
decades of riding, the last thing I need is a computer or expert telling me how 
to do it right. 

A young rider recently asked me about saddle height. I had to stop and think of 
all the different theories (fashions) I'd read about and tried—going back to 
the 1970s. I started to confuse even myself. Then it dawned on me! How do I set 
up my own saddle for height and fore/aft? After standing on the pedals, when I 
next again sit, my butt automatically goes to within millimeters of a specific 
spot. If the saddle ain't there to greet it, it's in the wrong place. 
Ultra-science! ;)

Perry Fitting system? I don't need no stinkin' fitting system Bessas

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[RBW] New AHH build drivetrain problem

2013-04-11 Thread bobish
I think this is a derailleur adjustment issue. A prickly little problem because 
it's hard to recreate consistantly on the road--never mind on the work stand. 
Assuming no hanger alignment issues, a very minor quarter or half turn of the 
cable barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur will likely fix it. Problem is, 
which way to turn? Try and figure out (when next it happens) what cog you've 
selected with your shifter vs. where the chain wants to go to (the next larger 
or next smaller cog). If it wants to to the next larger, you need a bit more 
cable slack. If next smaller, a bit more tension. I don't usually run across 
this on my 8 speed cassettes but do so often on my 9 speed new installs until I 
iron it out. I set a side a short ride with some hills for this and just nail 
it down once and for all.

Perry

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[RBW] Decent $500-$600 off the shelf bike???

2013-04-10 Thread bobish
What I've found on new bikes in this price range that's personally 
objectionable are various sub-standard parts. The parts work OK but I'd like 
something a little better (cranks, brake levers, etc). No point in replacing 
the parts because the cost would quickly climb to where I may as well spend the 
$$$ up front for something better. So personally, I'd look for used (surly, or 
whatever else that's good solid quality and wide availability). 

If you go for new though, the bikesdirect.com bikes (already mentioned) are 
ones that have always interested me (great price point and style) but I have 
never seen one in person. 

Good all around guy, Kent, loves the Trek Allant:
http://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2011/07/why-i-bought-trek-allant.html

REI has some very nice bikes. If you're a member, you build up savings points 
with purchases and if you can then find a bike discounted on top of it, you're 
golden. 

Giant bikes are usually well priced and pretty good quality at these prices. I 
think they make bikes for other companies but sell basically the same bikes 
under their brand as house label versions. At least that's what I've been 
told. I had a giant MTB a while back and thought it was a really good value.

Perry

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[RBW] Re: Sidepull brakes versus Cantilevers

2013-04-05 Thread bobish
There was a day when side pulls were viewed as cheap and tacky. Racing bikes 
had center pulls and touring had cantis. Then, racing bikes started to get 
better side pulls and all was pretty well until they went to short reach models 
and reduced tire and fender clearance to nothing. Now that better than ever, 
longer reach side pulls are available, I see no reason not to make them your 
first choice for the set up you describe. I've used every type of break and 
they all stop the bike just fine. The considerations are aesthetics and 
clearance so if you like side pulls, that's the ticket.

Perry loves side pulls for their no fuss minimalist appeal Bessas

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sidepull brakes versus Cantilevers

2013-04-05 Thread Bobish
Sorry about the break / brake switcheroos.

Perry

On Apr 5, 2013, at 6:53 AM, bobish bob...@gmail.com wrote:

 There was a day when side pulls were viewed as cheap and tacky. Racing 
 bikes had center pulls and touring had cantis. Then, racing bikes started to 
 get better side pulls and all was pretty well until they went to short reach 
 models and reduced tire and fender clearance to nothing. Now that better than 
 ever, longer reach side pulls are available, I see no reason not to make them 
 your first choice for the set up you describe. I've used every type of break 
 and they all stop the bike just fine. The considerations are aesthetics and 
 clearance so if you like side pulls, that's the ticket.
 
 Perry loves side pulls for their no fuss minimalist appeal Bessas
 
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[RBW] Re: Experimenting with crank length

2013-04-02 Thread bobish
Since you already know about Mark Stonich, I will just mention I've had cranks 
shortened by him for a recumbent and spoken with him on the phone. He feels 
that width is not the problem--length is. The general principle (and it has 
caught on with some recumbent riders as as some upright bike riders) is that 
short cranks, limited range of motion in knees and hips, more spinning and less 
mashing, equals healthier knees and more efficient pedaling. My own experience 
verifies this (anecdotally) on a recumbent but I have not tried it on an 
upright bike. There are issues—not only with finding short cranks—but cost, 
saddle height, possible gearing changes, etc. I'm 5'11 and am experimenting 
with with under 130mm crank length on a recumbent right now using these. My 
uprights have anything from 165 to 175 which I all happily ride but 165 seems 
more natural to me.

http://www.hostelshoppe.com/cgi-bin/readitem.pl?Accessory=1033761548

Best, 
Perry

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of Photos. (Kinda off topic)

2013-04-02 Thread bobish
Manny, I have many artist and photographer friends. It used to be, everybody 
had a dedicated website but now, many use whatever works (some pay for service, 
other free): Flickr, sugmug, Facebook, whatever. Another web service that is a 
bit below the radar but is specifically designed for creative professionals is 
behance (no affiliation).

Online Portfolios on Behance
http://www.behance.net/search?field=73

Good luck!
Perry

PS. If you have a domain name already, redirect it to your new home. If not, 
consider getting one. Redirects are easy and if you ever move your web home to 
another service, you won't have to notify anyone, change stationary, etc.

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Re: [RBW] Re: “Paleofantasy”: Stone Age delusions - Is Grant Eating the Wrong Stuff?

2013-03-13 Thread bobish
On Wednesday, March 13, 2013 11:08:06 AM UTC-4, numbnuts wrote:
 Hey All,
 If I remember correctly from my under grad days, when I studied, among other 
 stuff, physical anthropology, there is more than a little evidence in the 
 human family tree that our predecessors were eating stuff that needed to be 
 crushed rather than sliced, so grasses, grains, etc. At least that's what we 
 were taught.
 
 
 Regards,
 Chris
 Redding, Ca.

Correct.

Very early ancestors survived on tropical plants, new study suggests
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2012/12/121214200916.htm

Perry I ain't buyi the paleo fantasy bro science Bessas

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Re: [RBW] ISO 59cm Bleriot FFHS

2012-08-30 Thread bobish
How tall? My wife is 5'9 and I built her up a white 58cm Soma Buena Vista 
mixte (if you want to consider new). We both think it's the bomb. There's room 
for a taller rider in that size. Not sure if there is a size larger as well. It 
sure is a pretty bike. I would not say feminine but certainly not mannish.

PB
Connecticut 

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