Andy,
Love to see the pattern for the roller mount. Might even steal it if you
look the other way...
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 11:18:54 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC:
happy to share!
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:29 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
Andy,
Love to see the pattern for the roller mount. Might even steal it if
you look the other way...
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
--
Date: Mon, 3 Aug
Me too! : also, what did you do below decks for the motor housing? Thanks!
Richard
1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List
Haven't made it that far yet. Right now I just have a couple of holes in my
foredeck. I will probably just use a tupperware box sealed on around it for
now and then build something decent out of aluminum that I can screw in
place and bed with butyl tape.
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015
Andy, what type/brand etc. of windlass are you going with? also can you tell us
about the mounting location? Thanks
Richard
1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 At pool Stage finally...
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
It's a Lewmar V-2 and I am mounting it on deck, just aft of the anchor
locker hatch, where there is just enough room. I did have to cut away my
staysail track for two screws. I am mounting it on deck rather than in the
locker as I want to be able to use it manually should I lose power. I will
be
Andy, thanks; I could not find any info on a V2; how does it differ from the V1
and V3?
Richard
1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4 At pool Stage finally...
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-Original
Cockpit seems like a good use for it.
Dennis C.
On Aug 3, 2015 5:57 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
Thanks Dennis,
That stuff looks like the decks added to surfboards and SUPs. I might do
my cockpit with it?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River,
BTW, I just got an email from Lloyd Lippe, who started out earlier in the
season headed from the Texas coast to points east on his Landfall 39. He made
it to Key West after a stop-over for maintenance, then headed up to Marathon
and Key Largo. He hopped from Largo over to Bimini, and has now
Hi, Chuck. As far as power goes, run the 8AWG positive cable through the
appropriately-sized breaker on your DC panel (I seem to recall they spec a
10-amp breaker…) and run the 8AWG negative cable to the same point behind your
DC panel where all the rest of the negative wires connect; this
Yesstill enjoy and have learned so much from the list. Fred is
correctI wanted to let him know that all the electronics he suggested had
indeed worked perfectly and was so happy to have them and wanted him to know
how much I appreciated all is help. The AIS is the best safety
I'm installing a new Raymarine EV-100 wheel autohelm and could use some advice?
This kit uses a series of cables that plug together via a backbone cable, tees
and spurs.
The papers say:
It needs an 8 gage ground wire as a reference and a drain. Can be run to
negative bus. Would a ground
I am also thinking about doing my cockpit as I find it slippery when healed
over. Does anyone have a sense of how the smooth compares to the routed
surface for traction? Dave
On Aug 3, 2015, at 6:57 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Thanks Dennis,
That stuff looks like
Thanks Dennis,
That stuff looks like the decks added to surfboards and SUPs. I might do my
cockpit with it?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc:
So I just went up there again to fix the steaming light, and the crack is
less than an inch. I'm thinkingof just keepig an eye on it to make sure it
doesn't expand. If I do dynema I have to make sure shackles and thimbles
are rated for same strength. Is a 1/4 stainless thimble same rating as
The AIS Fred sold me was a big help while cruising for two months this summer.
I contacted some boats by name, and some contacted me by name. Better choice
than radar. Thanks Fred
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
His new instruments are reportedly working great; his
Mine cost only $500, but the main problem was frilling of the blades. The
main body was still good.
PYI is good, but at that price point for a rebuild I'd be looking at new.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 2 August 2015 at 22:50, Dr. David Montgomery via CnC-List
When you put a zinc on the shaft, there is normally a bit of slack in the
whole assembly. This is usually fixed by whacking the zinc with a hammer to
seat it on the shaft. Unless you back up the other side of the shaft with
something relatively immobile, you stand a chance of bending the shaft.
I figured out how to fix the speed sensor and clean the bottom at the same
time. Just motor put into the Straights of Juan de Fuca into 6' swells and 20
kt winds and they both get done at the same time. Cruising speed went up aa
full knot and the flaky speed sensor is now dead on accurate.
Andrew wrote:
Nope, just the gypsy. I like the low profile on the deck. the gypsy will
handle both rope and chain.
Yup. Give me a moment, I'll get to the point.
I just gave away the ATN Gale Sail that Fred gave (sold) me many years ago.
I've been through enough slop on this boat to know
I bet the Dyneema will do the trick easily. That's what I would do.
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 4:29 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2. It is a ¼” 1/19 wire braid.
I am asking b/c I discovered a crack
I assume your Maxprop is a 3 blade? I have that setup on my 34+ with the
same engine. At 2700 rpm we do about 6.5 to 6.75 knots pretty regularly, No
issues with vibration, seems to be good power and good reverse power. Sorry
I don't know offhand the pitch or size of the prop. That's my Maxprop
Hi Jim, hate to sound like a total boob as compared to my normal boobness, but
what are you referring to in both the dead blow hammers and painting of zincs??
I am interested…
Dave
On Aug 2, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
I had the same deal with my
So I did buy an O2Cool fan before I asked the question. I was all kinds of
happy thinking I found an easy solution that di not involve wires etc.
The fan is designed a s a clam-shell. So I opened it and placed on on the
evaporator plate upside with the battery half on inside (between the
Yes, it is a 3 blade and I run it at the same 2700 rpm’s. Yet to get to 6.5
knots or more would take plenty more rpms! If you by chance figure out which
prop you have (size) and what the pitch is I would love to know. Hopefully
(dear God!!) PYI can find enough left of mine to repair.
On Aug
Here you go:
https://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8338lid=25807
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:52 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Andy, thanks; I could not find any info on a V2; how does it differ from
the V1 and V3?
Richard
1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile
Thanks, I take it that you have the drum version?
Richard
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list
Gents,
I have a 1989 CC 30 II and my steering became stiff and squeaky. The solution
was to remove the cover atop the emergency tiller fitting and then lubricate
the rudder post from above. To do so, I just sprayed a luttle 3 in 1 oil around
where the rudder post mates with the collar.
Nope, just the gypsy. I like the low profile on the deck. the gypsy will
handle both rope and chain.
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:16 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Thanks, I take it that you have the drum version?
Richard
Richard N. Bush
Thanks Jim, got call back from PYI this morning and for $1395 they can repair
my prop which turns out to be a 15”. Now I need to decide whether to go new or
rebuilt which they contend will be as-good-as-new though it won’t win any
beauty contests!!
Dr. David W. Montgomery
425-827-5095
This
remove the through bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder
post/emergency tiller point.
Remove the plastic bearing and lubricate.
Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still
stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and
I'd remove the plate and spray some PB Blaster on the post and work it in.
It might dissolve some of the old dried up lubricant. (I used it to clean
winches). Then lube and re-assemble.
My 2 cents.
Joel
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 1:03 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Andy, it may be too late for you… :^( but if anyone else on the list is
looking at Lewmar windlasses, I can source them from my electronics supplier.
The cost savings could be significant.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Aug 3, 2015, at
I have a 3 blade Max-prop that came with my boat. I can’t her absolutely sure,
but the quote for the prop in the documents I got from the PO recommended a 15”
with pitch of 8.1” at 16° so I presume that is what I have and it has worked
great. Dave
On Aug 3, 2015, at 2:22 AM, Dr. David
Yep thats Rob...useless and funny.
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2015 17:13:41 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 CC 30 MKII Stiff
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: blairalcl...@hotmail.com
That is useful and funnythank you
Blair
Blair,
Rob (below) described the correct way to tackle the problem. I was going to use
my 11 year old daughter as my spider monkey, but I tried lubricating without
disassembly and it worked (at least for me). The cover that I referred to is
simply the white plastic (nylon?) cap that
Hi Monty- Thanks for pointing that out. I had read it a while ago, but forgot
about it. One thing I still find confusing is the backstay. With the split
wire backstay, no matter where you have the car, it is putting tension on the
mast. The amount of tension would depend on the tightness of
… use a tupperware box sealed on around it..
I did this when installing a Lewmar Ocean 2 windlass on Calypso’s foredeck
approx. 6’ back from the stem. I do recommend cutting some drain and
ventilation holes in the Tupperware box to prevent trapping salt water in and
around the motor/gearbox.
On a serious note, please disconnect shore power before sending the monkey down below. The 110 volt wires run right into the area where he'll be working.Robert H. Original message From: Blair via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08-03-2015 10:54 AM (GMT-08:00) To:
THANK YOU DAVE!! I will use those numbers as a starting point. Question, with
those settings what speed does your boat achieve at around 2700 RPM (I know
that we may have different boats but…).
Thanks again!
DAve M.
On Aug 3, 2015, at 9:55 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Checked a couple of surveys but neither mentioned the size or pitch. I am
hauling out in Sept so could check then. Ciao
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. David
Montgomery via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 11:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr.
That is useful and funnythank you
Blair Clark 902-423-4651
From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of Robert Gallagher
via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: August 3, 2015 2:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Gallagher
Subject:
Hi Dave- The boat makes about 6.5 knots in normal conditions with the throttle
fully open (Universal M4-30). Not sure I trust the tachometer given other
discussions on the listserv, so I don’t look at it too often. I will try to
remember to take a look next time and report back. Dave
On Aug
I have a 13year old boy who is about to put your and Rob's theory to the test
[]
Blair Clark 902-423-4651
From: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com on behalf of RPH via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: August 3, 2015 2:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
While the other CC 30mkII listers are tuned in, I am looking to replace my
main soon and looking for a decent used one. If you have a back up that's
not all blown out or you are thinking about replacing your current one
soon, let me know...I am in the market.
Thanks!
Kevin
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at
Stu,
I whole heartedly agree. We really enjoyed coming to Toronto from
Kalamazoo, Michigan for a rendezvous. Always enjoyed meeting George
Cuthbertson (and the hat I got for coming from the farthest distance).
Don't miss a chance to meet some of the people that you have come to
know from
The batteries are probably still OK, and have perhaps half their life
remaining if used at room temperature. But the chemical reaction of the
battery slows down as the temperature is reduced (just like in your car
during the winter). The O2 fans I have on the boat for airflow on hot nights
Like most of us, I think about taking my boat offshore one day. One of my 4AM
quandaries is what to do about my seat locker. It has a huge hatch and nothing
in the way of gaskets to keep water out. If a wave filled the cockpit, as has
happened to me on many occasions in nasty weather, there is
Rob I have a 1088 CC 30 MK !! as well and I had the same problem 2 years ago.
After some help from the list I found a grease nipple on the raised portion of
the hull where the rudder post goes through the hull and into the water. I
filled with grease as I could see grease coming up along the
Listers,
Just 39 days to go to the CC 2015 Northeast Rendezvous — See cnc2015.com
http://cnc2015.com/.
Floating private dock
Power / Water
Pool / Hot Tub
Recreation Area
Ship’s Store / Mechanics on Site
Shopping Shuttle to Premium Outlet Mall
Close to Trains and Route 1 in Clinton, CT
Group
Andy,
Due to the nature of the locker rim and lid lip design I tried and failed with
a few gaskets.
I just secured the hasp offshore and was prepared to live with whatever water
got down there.
We have been pooped before, but I don't remember if it caused an undo amount of
water
Andy,
Same method here. (Never been pooped, just pooped on)
Passed inspection for Bermuda - lid just had to be secure, not watertight.
Joel
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 9:59 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
Andy,
Due to the nature of the locker rim and lid lip design I tried
Listers,
It’s CC-List Auction time again. I have:
4 Oil Filters (FRAM PH3593A)
6 Quarts of Rotella T1 SAE30 Oil
3 Belts (universal 300817)
Bidding starts at $20 (The oil alone is worth $36). All proceeds beyond my
shipping costs will go towards some extra food/drink for the first night’s
dinner
I ask this as I am about to mount my windlass switch and breaker in there,
next to my batteries and charger. The wrong wave could ruin my whole
paycheck! Obviously, not a huge factor with coastal cruising, but if I head
offshore...
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:07 AM, Joel
Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2. It is a ¼ 1/19 wire braid.
I am asking b/c I discovered a crack at the swage on the mast end. Crack is
pretty good, about 1.5 longitudinal.
Im weighing in the following options
1. Send to rigger and have him swage identical replacement
Replaced the one on my 35/3 with wire, but if I had the dyneema lying
around I would have done a DIY.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 4:29 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2. It is a ¼” 1/19 wire braid.
I am
Petar,
If this functions the same the baby stay on the 35-3, you should be able to
sail without it - no need to miss out on sailing this weekend...
Tim
Mojito
CC 35-3
Branford, CT
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 4:29 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Has anyone replaced the
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